© Lonely Planet Publications
108 www. l onel ypl anet. com NORTHERN ETHIOPIA " " Cl i mate 109
0 100 km
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
0 60 miles
Senafe
Adi Quala
E R I T R E A
The international boundaries on
Northern Ethiopia
Badme
this map serve as indications only.
Om-hajer
Yeha
Debre Damo The Ethiopia Eritrea border awaits
formal UN demarcation.
Humero Adigrat
Shire Enticcio
(Inda Selassie)
Edaga Hamus
Battle Site
S U D A N
Aksum
Adwa
Hawsien Sinkata
Battle Site Inda
Hagere Salem
Negash
Selassie
Dallol
Atsbi
Abi Addi
Wukro
Berahile
The bounty of northern Ethiopia s historical African treasures is only rivalled by that of
Agula
Ras Dashen
Adi Arkay Danakil
Tigray
Hamd
(4543m)
Egypt s. In Aksum, elaborate pre-Christian tombs underlie ancient obelisks; in Lalibela a medi- Desert
Ela Irta'ale
Mekele
(613m)
Debark
eval maze of rock-hewn churches lies frozen in stone. The wealth of history continues in Gonder,
Simien Mountains
National Park
Lake
where grand 17th-century castles overlook the celebrated source of the Blue Nile, Lake Tana.
Afera
The lake s waters host centuries-old island monasteries and countless religious artefacts.
Maychew
H
Gonder
To Metema Sekota
Northern Ethiopia s landscape is equally captivating and is unparalleled in Africa in both
(24km)
Abune
Yosef
scale and beauty. Although the amazing backdrop of endless canyons, chasms, gorges and
Gorgora
(4190m)
Addis Zemen Lalibela
high plateaus covers most of the north, there s no better way to absorb it than trekking the Lake
Mesket
Tana Debre
Escarpment
Semera
Tabor
Simien Mountains. You ll also be able to experience some of Ethiopia s endemic wildlife.
Logiya
Woldia
Filakit Dilb
Bahir Dar
Asaita Galafi
Nature takes on hostile tones in the Danakil Depression, where harsh conditions make Tis Isat Gashema Mille
Blue Nile Falls
Durbete Lake Gamarri
DJIBOUTI
Tenta
(Tis Isat)
molten lava feel more at home than you. At over 100m below sea level it s one of the low-
Hayk
Maqdala
Dangla Ajibara Lake Hayk
Mota
est, hottest and most inhospitable places on Earth.
Bati Lake Abbe
Amba Farit
Dessie
(Lac Abbé)
(3975m) Kombolcha
Mt Choke
(4100m)
Depending on your mood and budget, getting around northern Ethiopia can be as easy as
Bure
Yangudi-Rassa
National Park
hopping a plane or as difficult as wedging your big toe into a precarious cliffside crevice.
H H
Abuye
Debre
Meda
Markos
(4000m)
Gundo
Intrepid travellers have been returning from here for centuries with incredible tales of
Mezezo
Meskel
Dejen
Escarpment
adventure, ancient civilisations, marvellous buildings and enchanting legends. Don t you
Blue Nile Guassa
Plateau
Gorge
Jemma
think it s time you do the same?
Valley
Fiche
Debre
Dire Dawa
Berhan
Debre Sina
Lake Debre
Harar
Ruins
Chomen Libanos H H
Muger River
Ankober
HIGHLIGHTS Gorge
Shano
Aliyu Amba
Durba
Question time, history and reality while Chancho
Awash
Nekemte Scenic Route
wandering dumbfounded through the rock-
ADDIS ABABA
hewn maze of churches in Lalibela (p155)
Descend into the darkness of ancient Ak-
Climate map. It s home to rare endemics, like the
Aksum
sumite tombs or let your eyes follow 1800-
The central and northern highlands are walia ibex and Ethiopian wolf, as well as
year-old stelae skyward at Aksum (p131) Tigray
fairly mild with average daytime tempera- large populations of the intriguing gelada
Exercise your eyes while trekking the
tures of 18°C. The bulk of the rain falls baboon, and offers Ethiopia s best trekking
sublime Simien Mountains (p125), home
between May and September, with July and and some of Africa s most astounding panor-
Simien
Mountains
to magnificent wildlife and unparalleled
August being the wettest. The region of Tig- amas from its 4000m plateaus and peaks.
panoramas of endless Abyssinian abysses
ray and parts of northeastern Amharaland
Gonder
are drier, only receiving significant rain in Getting There & Away
Share Lake Tana (p115) with patrolling
July and August. Ethiopian Airlines (www.flyethiopian.com) connects
pelicans and centuries-old island
Lalibela
Lake Tana
The Danakil Depression, with elevations Addis Ababa with Bahir Dar, Gonder, Lali-
monasteries
cracking 116m below sea level, regularly bela, Aksum, Shire, Mekele and Dessie.
Catch the sun s last light kissing the
surpasses 50°C. Most people who enter northern Ethi-
abled remains of Africa s Camelot in
opia overland are travelling by bus from
Gonder (p118)
National Parks Addis Ababa, which sits conveniently at the
Flirt with gravity and reach new heights at
If northern Ethiopia was devoid of astound- bottom of the historical circuit. Although
Abuna Yemata Guh (p149), one of the rock-hewn churches of Tigray
ing historical finds, Simien Mountains Na- possible, few people access the Addis
tional Park would truly be on the world Ababa Bahir Dar road from the western
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
D a n a k i l D e p r e s s i o n
River
Tekeze
C h o k e
Abay
River
M o u
n t
a n s
Muger
River
110 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Addi s Ababa to the Bl ue Ni l e Gorge www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Nor th To Bahi r Dar 111
highland town of Nekemte. The only other Muger River Gorge Shoa region, and remains one of Ethiopia s
DEATH AT DEBRE LIBANOS
overland option is from Sudan at the Me- largest and most important. Today, five re-
During the Italian occupation, Debre Libanos
tema crossing (p275). The Muger River Gorge, some 50km north ligious schools are found here.
of Addis Ababa, is a good spot for a bit Many Ethiopians continue to make pil- witnessed some of the worst excesses of
Fascist brutality. Following the attempt on
Getting Around of rambling and wildlife-watching. The en- grimages and some still seek out the area s
the life of the infamous viceroy Graziani, the
Ethiopian Airlines has flights interconnect- demic gelada baboon is often seen here, as curative holy waters said to be good for
monastery, long suspected as a hotbed of
ing Bahir Dar, Gonder, Lalibela and Aksum. are a good variety of birds. evil spirits and stomach disorders!
Flights also link Mekele with Aksum. Access is from the village of Durba, The present church, the latest in a succes- rebel activity, was singled out for reprisal.
On 20 May 1937, 267 monks all without
Road construction is booming and freshly which sits 17km west of Chancho and the sion of structures, was built in 1961 by Haile
distinction were executed; a week later,
sealed sections of road now connect Addis Addis Ababa Bahir Dar road. There are a Selassie after a priest apparently prophesied
Graziani ordered the execution of all of the
Ababa with Bahir Dar and Gonder (though couple daily share-taxis linking Durba and that a new church would ensure a long
129 young deacons as well. Satisfied at last,
still expect a few older potholed sections!). Chancho (Birr5, 45 to 60 minutes), though reign. It s built in the emperor s peculiar
he wrote to Mussolini, The monastery is
In the east, new sections of sealed road more run on Saturday. To continue north style: monumental and pretty hideous.
closed definitively .
now all but link Adigrat, Mekele and Wol- or south from Chancho, you can hop on Besides what s believed to be the saint s
dia. The old sealed road connecting Addis the buses running between Addis Ababa tomb, the church interior isn t too interest-
Ababa to Woldia is currently being over- and Bahir Dar. ing. The stained-glass windows and mural
hauled. While fresh roads have reduced paintings aren t by Afewerk Tekle, as church Before the Italians built the bridge with
the extensive bus network s travel times, Debre Libanos & Fiche literature claims. their usual civil engineering flair, the Blue
journeys are still lengthy due to the massive Five minutes up the hill from the monas- Nile River separated the historical prov-
distances being covered. Expect at least 10 Lying 104km north of Addis Ababa, 4.2km tery is Tekla Haimanot s cave, where the saint inces of Shoa and Gojam. Although your
solid days of bus journeys to complete the off the main Addis Ababa Debre Markos is said to have done all his praying. It s also eyes will undoubtedly be drawn downward
2500km-long historical circuit. road, is one of Ethiopia s most holy sites. the source of the monastery s holy water. to the bridge and gorge, don t forget to look
The only area you ll have trouble finding The monastery of Debre Libanos (admission Birr50, If you climb past the cave, there s a mar- up lammergeyer vultures regularly soar
regular public transport is around the rock- personal video cameras Birr50) was founded in the vellous view of the monastery in its dra- the gorge s thermals.
hewn churches of Tigray. 13th century by a priest credited not only matic setting. The cross-shaped tomb near The Alem Hotel (%0587 760010; s with shared
To visit the Danakil Depression, you ll with the spread of Christianity throughout the car park is dedicated to those executed bathroom Birr30, s/d Birr70/80) in Dejen, on the
have travel by private or rented 4WD. the highlands, but also with the restoration by the Fascists (see the boxed text, right). gorge s northern rim, is the nearest sleeping
of the Solomonic line of kings. The priest was Near the turn-off to the monastery is the and eating option. The rooms are clean and
Tekla Haimanot, today one of Ethiopia s most so-called 16th-century Portuguese Bridge, in fact bright, but prices are seriously faranji-fied.
THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT revered saints (see the boxed text, p49). built at the 19th century s end by Emperor Running water is in short supply (check the
Although no trace of the ancient mon- Menelik s uncle, Ras Darge. However, like taps before settling on a price). The hotel
The historical circuit stretches over the astery remains (a casualty of the Muslim Debre Libanos, the scenery and atmosphere lurks behind an unnamed petrol station.
entire breadth of northern Ethiopia and Christian wars), the site is impressively set make up for the lack of tangible historical
covers all the major historical sites and beneath a cliff on the edge of a gorge and remains. Look out for the gelada baboons, NORTH TO BAHIR DAR
provides access to natural attractions is a peaceful place to wander. which are often seen here, as are the huge There are now two ways of reaching Bahir
like the Simien Mountains and Danakil Since the saint s time, Debre Libanos has and soaring lammergeyer vultures. Dar from the Blue Nile Gorge: via Mota,
Depression. served as the principal monastery of the old Two buses run daily from Addis Ababa along the shorter but bumpier unsealed road;
Most visitors move in a clockwise direc- to Debre Libanos (Birr10, two to 2½ hours). or via Debre Markos (100km longer) along a
tion, travelling through Bahir Dar, Gonder Another option is to take a bus to the slightly potholed section of sealed road.
THE DEADLY DULA
and Aksum, before looping back south- nearby town of Fiche (Birr10, 2½ hours). Most Addis Ababa buses travel through
The dula is the chosen travelling companion
wards. This leaves what s arguably the best Minibuses connect Fiche to the monastery, Mota as it saves fuel and allows them to
of almost every Amhara man. The 1m-long
for last lovely Lalibela. 16.5km to the south (Birr3, 30 minutes, reach Bahir Dar in one day. Private vehicles
hardwood staff serves a variety of purposes:
three or four minibuses daily). should travel via Debre Markos your
to carry loads to and from market, to brace
ADDIS ABABA TO THE BLUE If you get stuck in Fiche, the Alem Hotel backside will thank you and it only takes
the shoulders on long treks, to lean on dur-
NILE GORGE (r with shower Birr35), on the Addis Ababa Debre six hours to link Addis and Bahir Dar.
The road north to the Blue Nile Gorge of- ing never-ending church services, and to
Markos road, is still the best bet. From If you re driving and want to split the jour-
defend oneself when needed.
fers some historical and natural sights for Fiche, there are numerous buses plying the ney, Debre Markos Shebel Hotel (%0587 711410;
In the past, every Amhara was skilled in
those wishing to break up the long journey Addis Ababa Bahir Dar route. s/d Birr50/80) is the best option. Most rooms are
its use. The gabi (toga) was spun around
to Bahir Dar. bright and boast new carpets and hot show-
the left arm to make a shield, and the right
Even if you don t plan on stopping, Blue Nile Gorge ers. Some even offer balconies with views
arm brought the dula crashing down on the
keep an eye out for the shepherds in their North of Fiche, around 200km from Addis Those on a bus travelling the Debre
adversary s cranium sometimes with dev-
delightful reed raincoats , the Amhara Ababa, begins one of Ethiopia s most dra- Markos route will usually end up spending
astating consequences. Today its most com-
women in their pleated highland skirts, matic stretches of road. It serpentines to the night in Dangla, 78km south of Bahir
mon use is fending off unfriendly dogs.
and the men carrying their indispensable the bottom of the Blue Nile Gorge, 1000m Dar. Dangla s Ha-Hu Hotel (%0582 210849;
dula (see right). below. d Birr30) has comfortable rooms with clean
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
112 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Bahi r Dar www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Bahi r Dar 113
bathrooms. It s behind the NOC Mart pet- TELEPHONE southwest. It s busiest on Saturday. Sure Further south of the memorial is Be-
rol station. Telecenter (Map p113; a guide would help you find things more zawit Hill, the summit of which hosts the
h8am-9pm) This outdoor kiosk
lacks a sign, but only charges Birr15 per minute for reason- quickly, but isn t getting lost half the fun? former Palace of Haile Selassie (Map p116 )
BAHIR DAR ably sounding international calls. Just to save you a day of unfruitful look- and offers panoramic views over the Blue
pop 166,928 / elev 1880m Telecommunications office (Map p113; h8am-noon ing, we ll be kind enough to tell you the Nile River. The palace isn t currently open
Despite Bahir Dar being one of Ethiopia s & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) International calls. delightful agelgil (ingenious leather-bound to visitors.
most attractive towns, you ll have a hard Standard rates (p267). lunch boxes used by local travellers) are For those Lake Tana monasteries you may
time not turning your back on it. Just like no longer sold in the market. They re sold have heard about, see p115. Information on
the rest of us, you ll helplessly gravitate TOURIST INFORMATION by streetside kiosks near the ANRS Tour- the Blue Nile Falls is found on p118.
down the wide palm-lined boulevards to ANRS Tourism Commission (Map p113; ism Commission. Bahir Dar s versions are
%0582
Lake Tana s gorgeous shore and once there, 201686; h8.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri) funky and furry, thanks to being made from Sleeping
you ll nary look over your shoulder. Although staff are keen to help, it offers little more than goatskin. BUDGET
It s a great place to spend a few days. brochures on the area (Birr3). The famous outlet of the Blue Nile (Map Ghion Hotel (Map p113; %0582 200111; ghionbd@ethio
Besides some sights around town, you re p116 ) is located some 5km outside the net.et; camping Birr33, d & tw Birr75-125; Al-
i)
on the doorstep of Lake Tana s mystical TRAVEL AGENCIES town, around 1km north from the Blue though the rooms here are as tired and
monasteries. The follow agencies are noted for arranging Nile bridge. Along the river, keep an eye worn as your favourite pair of travel socks,
Although geared up to tourism, Bahir Dar boat trips onto Lake Tana. out for hippos and crocodiles. For more there s no denying Ghion s beautiful lake-
is a booming business centre in its own right. Exodus Boat Tour Agent (%0918 760056; Tana Hotel) information on the outlet of the Blue Nile, side setting. Rooms vary, and size and
It s also capital of the Amharaland region. Catering to well-heeled travellers. It s northeast of town. see p117. prices are entirely negotiable, despite what
In the 16th and 17th centuries, various Dib Anbessa Hotel (Map p113; %0582 201436) A bit Just south of the bridge is a massive new the smarmy manager tells you. Mosquitos
temporary Ethiopian capitals were estab- pushy saleswise, but reliable enough. war memorial (Map p116) dedicated to those are problematic here bring a mossie net.
lished in the vicinity of Lake Tana. It was Ghion Hotel (Map p113; %0582 200111) Less polished who died fighting the Derg (p37). We were It s a great place to camp (free tents are oc-
here where Jesuits attempted with disas- but best for budget travellers looking to share costs. told it may eventually host a museum, but casionally available) and airport pick-ups
trous consequences to impose Catholicism Tis Abay Tour & Travel Agency (Map p113; %0582 we couldn t confirm this. Do let us know! are free.
on the Ethiopian people. One Jesuit building, 208541, 0918 762307; Papyrus Hotel) Offers quality service It s quite the sight, its fountain cascading Enkutatash Hotel (%0582 204435; d/tw Birr40/50)
which was built by the well-known Spanish in either 25HP or 40HP boats. down to the Blue Nile. Just west of town, this place has rooms set
missionary Pero Pais, can still be seen today
0 400 m
in the compound of St George s church. Dangers & Annoyances
BAHIR DAR
0 0.2 miles
In the 1960s Haile Selassie toyed with the Malaria is endemic, particularly in May and
To Island
AC D
B
Monasteries
idea of moving his capital here. from mid-September to mid-October. Take
To Enkutatash Hotel (200m); To Tana Hotel (1.4km); Exodus
Lake Tana
Weyto Village (2km); Bahir
adequate preventive measures (see p373 for Boat Tour Agent (1.4km); War
Dar Resort Hotel (4km); Marine Authority Boat
Memorial (3.5km); Outlet of
(Some Minor Roads Not Depicted)
Airport (8km); Zege Peninsula & Ferry Launch
Information more information). Blue Nile (5km); Palace of
(25km) Haile Selassie (6km); Gonder
14
SLEEPING
(183km); Lalibela (261km)
INTERNET ACCESS Tourist hustlers can be a problem here, es- 1
St Mikael 25 Bahir Dar Hotel...........................12 A1
Church
Ghion eDrums (Map p113; per hr Birr18) pecially around the bus station. Most know 1 Dib Anbessa Hotel......................13 B2
Ghion Hotel...............................14 A1
31
Global Computer (Map p113; per hr Birr18) Can also the best place to stay or the cheapest boat 8
Government
Papyrus Hotel.............................15 B3
Council Building
10 12 St George's Summerland Hotel.....................16 B2
burn images to CD using USB connection (Birr15). operators thankfully you know better.
Church
Tana Pension..............................17 B2
Some travellers have also complained of
18 30 13 16 6
5
EATING
Mulualem
MEDICAL SERVICES hassle from children at the market and on
3 21
Cultural Centre
Bahir Dar Hotel........................(see 12)
26 7
Gamby Higher Clinic & Pharmacy (Map p113; the Zege Peninsula. Taking a guide would
27 Dib Anbessa Restaurant...........(see 13)
22 Enkutatash Restaurant...............18 A2
solve the problem, but it isn t essential.
%0582 202017; h24hr) Town s best medical facility, Mosque
17
Ghion Hotel.............................(see 14)
complete with satellite TV in the waiting room.
Hajj Adgoy Bakery.....................19 A2
28
2 INFORMATION Summerland Hotel...................(see 16)
Sights & Activities
ANRS Tourism Commission..........1 A1 Tana Pastry..............................(see 17)
19
MONEY Lounging lakeside and watching pelicans Commercial Bank.........................2 A3
20
Dashen Bank................................3 B2 DRINKING
9
Commercial Bank (Map p113; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to skirting the surface might be the most relax-
Dib Anbessa Hotel...................(see 13) Araki Bars...................................20 B2
24
4
noon Sat) Of Bahir Dar s three Commercial Bank branches, ing way to pass time. You may also glimpse Gamby Higher Clinic & Blue Bird Café.............................21 B2
Pharmacy.................................4 A2 Cloud Nine Café........................22 A2
H
H
this is the only one that changes travellers cheques and the flimsy, yet unsinkable tankwa canoe.
Ghion eDrums.........................(see 14) Delicious Juice Center................23 A3
Entrance to
29
Ghion Hotel.............................(see 14) Galaxy Café...............................24 B2
cash (US dollars and euros). Made from woven papyrus, they can take Bus Station
Global Computer..........................5 B2 Mango Park................................ B1
25
Dashen Bank (Map p113; h8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon- huge loads, including oxen! On Thursday,
Post Office...................................6 C2 Paradise Café.............................26 A2
Telecenter....................................7 B2
Fri, 8am-noon Sat) Changes cash and travellers cheques. many bring charcoal and firewood from the
Telecommunications Office..........8 A1 ENTERTAINMENT
Wegagen Bank (Map p113; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to Zege Peninsula; have a look out. If you d
Tis Abay Tour & Travel Balageru Cultural Club...............27 C2
3
Agency.................................(see 15)
4pm Sat) Only changes US dollars and euros cash. like to see them being made, head west of
11 Wegagen Bank............................9 A2 TRANSPORT
23
town to the little village of Weyto.
Main Market Bike Rental.................................28 B2
To Blue Nile Falls SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Bus Station.................................29 B3
POST If you are allergic to scenic lakesides
(32km); Addis
Agelgil Kiosks.............................10 A1 Ethiopian Airlines........................30 B2
Ababa (575km)
Bahir Dar is served by its obligatory post and love dusty action, visit the large and
Main Market..............................11 A3 Marine Authority Office.............31 A1
2 15
office. lively main market (Map p113) in the town s
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
114 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Bahi r Dar www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Lake Tana & i ts Monasteri es 115
off a pint-sized quaint courtyard. They Eating Entertainment LAKE TANA & ITS MONASTERIES
sport rugs, mosquito nets, cold-water show- Bahir Dar Hotel (Map p113; mains Birr7-12) If you Balageru Cultural Club (Map p113; admission free;
ers and tiny verandas . want local atmosphere and great Ethio- beers Birr6) If you d like an entertaining cul- Upon first observation, Lake Tana s beauty
Bahir Dar Hotel (Map p113; %0582 200788; d with pian fare, there s nowhere better than this tural experience and a good laugh, visit this is obvious; its blue waters lapping on lush
shared bathroom Birr40, d Birr50) Hidden behind hotel s courtyard. Sit under the stars, enjoy place. Various azmari (see the boxed text, shores, islands dotting its distant horizon
the telecommunications office, this place the music (and bonfires on weekends) and p53) do their thing to the rapturous joy of and squadrons of pelicans flirting with its
offers simple and clean rooms. The private dine for pennies. locals. If you re brave enough to dance and surface. Explore a bit further and you ll
showers are hot, the common ones not so. Dib Anbessa Restaurant (Map p113; mains Birr13- do your thing, you ll win lots of friends. discover famous centuries-old monasteries
Rooms surround the ever-so-popular court- 24) A wide-ranging menu, with everything lurking on some 20 of its 37 islands.
yard restaurant, which means noise may be from minchet abesh (thick minced-meat Getting There & Away The lake is Ethiopia s largest, cover-
a problem on weekends. stew topped with a hard-boiled egg) to AIR ing over 3500 sq km, and its waters are
Tana Pension (Map p113; 201302; d with Hungarian goulash and American meat- Ethiopian Airlines (Map p113; %0582 200020; h8- the source of the Blue Nile, which flows
%0582
shared bathroom Birr20) Its cheap rooms are big loaf. We chose the Indian curry and were 11.45am & 2-5.45pm) has two or three flights 5223km north to the Mediterranean Sea.
and bright and boast clean sheets. The pleasantly surprised. daily to Addis Ababa (US$78, 30 minutes),
stained Raggedy Anne red carpets and Ghion Hotel (Map p113; mains Birr12-20) Its lake- and one or two to Gonder (US$37, 17 Sights & Activities
the smelly shared bathrooms are its weak front terrace is a pleasant spot for a meal. minutes), Lalibela (US$61, 1ź hours) and A trip out onto the lake is as obligatory as
points. The tilapia (a freshwater fish) is usually well Aksum (US$86, two to three hours). it is enjoyable. Although the obvious high-
prepared. lights are the monasteries, the lake also
MIDRANGE Enkutatash Restaurant (Map p113; mains Birr12- BUS & MINIBUS offers some prime bird habitats.
Summerland Hotel (Map p113; %0582 206566; www 20) Since gaining a reputation for fine fish One bus departs for Addis Ababa via the
.enjoybahirdar.com; s/d/tw Birr238/361/375) What cutlets, the prices here have doubled. The Debre Markos route (Birr60.35, 1½ days, MONASTERIES
this newish place lacks in character, it food is still good, but the restaurant has 6am), while a simultaneous service departs While the boat engine s buzz is anything
makes up for in comfort and cleanliness. little ambience. via the Mota route (Birr56.60, 12 hours). but a throwback to ancient times, your first
The Summerland Hotel has sparkling tile Summerland Hotel (Map p113; mains Birr18-25) Gonder (Birr22.15, four hours) and Debre meetings with remarkable cross-wielding
floors, gleaming bathrooms, satellite TVs, Like its rooms, this place is bright and mod- Tabor (Birr12.70, three hours) are each priests after stepping onto the islands just
mosquito nets, the odd bit of marble and ern but is devoid of character. However, it served by two morning buses. Several buses may be.
balconies all up for grabs. does prepare some of town s best faranji a day trundle to and from Tis Isat (Birr4.20, Many monasteries date from the late
Tana Hotel (%0582 200554; ghion@ethionet.et; s/tw/ (foreigner, especially Western) food. 45 minutes) for the Blue Nile Falls. There s 16th or early 17th century, though most
ste US$38/50/75; i) Sitting lakeside just north Tana Pastry (Map p113 ; mains Birr4-12) A good also the odd unscheduled service to Lalibela were founded much earlier and may even
of town, this hotel s rooms offer sunset views place for a pastry or omelette. Locals say it s (Birr46, 10 hours). All buses leave from the have been the site of pre-Christian shrines.
over Lake Tana. Triangular partitions divide the best place for cheap fresh fish. main station. If you want help deciphering the murals
the somewhat stylish accommodations, Hajj Adgoy Bakery (Map p113; Private minibuses also operate to Addis adorning the monasteries walls, check out
h5am-8pm)
which include embroidered bedding and Town s best bread perfect for early morn- Ababa (Birr120 to Birr150, six hours) and Know Your Ethiopian Saints on p49.
satellite TVs. ing bus journeys. The sign is in Amharic, so Gonder (Birr30, three hours); ask at your Although it s possible to see all the mon-
Papyrus Hotel (Map p113; 205100; fax just follow your nose. hotel. asteries over several long days, you ll likely
%0582
0582 208543; s/d Birr215/269, ste Birr322-537; is) have your fill after one full day. Yes, it is
Rooms here are reasonably sized and well Drinking FERRY possible to have too much of a good thing.
furnished with comfortable mattresses, Tana Hotel (beers Birr10) This hotel s lakefront A ferry sails every Sunday at 6am for Gor- If you have a 40HP speedboat, 11 hours and
wardrobes, desks and mosquito nets. Some gardens are the perfect place for a sunset gora (Birr104.50, 1½ days), on the northern priests who are quick with the keys, you
boast balconies overlooking the pool s em- drink. shore of Lake Tana. It typically overnights could conceivably visit these gems: Kebran
erald waters. However, it lacks Summer- Mango Park (Map p113; beers Birr5) Although in Konzola (Map p116). Buy tickets the day Gabriel, Narga Selassie, Daga Estefanos,
land s polished feel and Tana s location, and it lacks Tana Hotel s sunset dramatics, this before at the Marine Authority office (Map p113; Tana Cherkos and Ura Kidane Meret.
only the suites offer satellite TV. tiered terrace also overlooks the lake and is Note that women can visit only cer-
%0582 200730; h8am-noon & 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri,
Dib Anbessa Hotel (Map p113; 201436; a cool spot for a drink. It s usually packed 8am-noon Sat). tain monasteries, although these number
%0582
fax 0582 201818; d/tw Birr165/180) The carpeted with local students, families and pelicans. There s no restaurant or café on board, among the most interesting. Admission to
rooms here are comfy and clean, but they Delicious Juice Center (Map p113; juices Birr3) though there are stops at restaurants en each monastery is collected by the priests.
aren t ageing well. For instance, our hot Collapse into its streetside chairs and intro- route. Priests rarely have change, so bring lots of
shower was cold and the showerhead threw duce some fresh juice to your insides. Birr1 and Birr10 notes for tips and fees.
more water on the ceiling than our soap- There are numerous cafés (Map p113 ), Getting Around Toting a small video camera costs an ad-
covered face. Crafty negotiations can knock like Cloud Nine, Paradise, Galaxy and Blue Bikes are perfect for Bahir Dar; hire one just ditional Birr50 per monastery
off around Birr50. Bird, which all serve great coffee. south of Tana Pension (Birr3 per hour). For important information on church
Bahar Dar Resort Hotel is a behemoth If you want something that will knock If you re in a hurry, flag a passing taxi. etiquette, see the boxed text on p44.
lakeside place that s been almost ready to you off your feet, visit the hole-in-the-wall They cost Birr10 for short hops or Birr20 All the stated journey times are for a
open for over half a decade. Don t hold your araki (a grain spirit) bars near the bus to the Tana Hotel. The 8km airport trip will one-way trip from Bahir Dar in a 40HP
breath. station. set you back Birr40. speedboat (add about 30% more time for a
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
116 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Lake Tana & i ts Monasteri es www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Lake Tana & i ts Monasteri es 117
0 40 km
Also on Zege Peninsula, Azuwa Maryam Getting Around
LAKE TANA & ITS MONASTERIES
0 20 miles
(admission Birr20) has interesting 19th- or 20th- There s no shortage of boat operators in
12 1 To Gonder
Gorgora
A 16 B (48km); Aksum CD
century paintings and a small museum. It s Bahir Dar, and shifty commission agents
6
(408km)
13
Delgi 2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES five minutes walk from the landing stage. lurk everywhere.
Church of Debre Sina Maryam............ B1
1
Essey
People who ve been happiest have booked
2
Addis Zemen Monastery of Birgida Maryam............. B1
Deber
Monastery of Debre Maryam.............3 B2
BIRD-WATCHING boats through the travel agencies on p112.
1
Monastery of Dega Estefanos............. B1
4
Lake Tana
For those with an eye for birds, Lake Tana s Prices are always negotiable and range
Monastery of Kebran Gabriel..............5 B2
Monastery of Mendaba Medhane
various habitats offer up numerous species. from Birr120 (one to five people) for a
6
Dek Island Alem............................................... B1
Wereta
4 Besides the heralded white pelicans, you 90-minute trip to Debre Maryam and the
Konzola 8
Monastery of Mitsele Fasiladas...........7 B2
To Debre Tabor
Monastery of Narga Selassie............... B1
8
(10km); Gashema may glimpse the likes of lesser flamingos, Blue Nile outlet in a 25HP boat to Birr1000
Monastery of Tana Cherkos................9 B2
9 Kristos Samra (115km); Lalibela
(160km) lesser kestrels, wattled cranes, bush petro- (one to five people) for an 11-hour trip in
7 Outlet of the Blue Nile......................10 B2
Palace of Haile Selassie.....................11 B2
nia, hornbills, paradise flycatchers, king- a 40HP speedboat. A half-day trip to the
Portugese Cathedral.........................12 A1
Susenyos' Old Palace........................13 A1 fishers and various parrots. Zege Peninsula costs between Birr250 and
Korata
15 War Memorial..................................14 B2
Zege
Spots to peruse include the areas around Birr330. Always ensure that a guide is in-
Zege Peninsula Monasteries (Azuwa
3
2
Maryam, Beta Giorgis, Beta Mitsel Fasiladas (popular breeding ground cluded in the cost. Although last-minute
5
15
10 Maryam &Ura Kidane Meret)........ B2
Bahir Dar
for wetland birds), Debre Maryam, the Blue arrangements are possible, it s best to ar-
17
Airport
Bahir Dar
Blue Nile River TRANSPORT
Nile s outlet, Dek Island and Lake Tana s range things the day before.
11
(Abay River)
Gorgora Ferry Launch....................... B1
16
To Dangla (65km); 14
eastern shore. Before leaving, ensure your boat has life
Mota (90km);
Lake Tana Transport Ferry Launch....17 B2
Blue Nile Falls (Tis Isat)
Addis Ababa (555km) Tis Isat
jackets and spare fuel. It s wise to bring a
OUTLET OF THE BLUE NILE raincoat or umbrella and something warm.
25HP boat). See Getting Around (opposite) crosses. It s 2½ hours by boat and a two- You don t visit the outlet of the Blue Nile The Marine Authority (%0582 200730; h8am-
for boat-hire information. minute walk from the landing stage. to say hello to the river. You visit it to say noon & 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) in Bahir
One of the most beautiful and atmos- One of the the lake s most sacred mon- goodbye to Lake Tana s water and wish it Dar offers a daily ferry service to the Zege
pheric monasteries, Kebran Gabriel (admission asteries, Dega Estefanos (admission Birr50, men only) well on its 5223km journey to the Mediter- Peninsula (Birr44 return). It departs Bahir
Birr20, men only) dates from the 17th century. was rebuilt in the mid-19th century and ranean. You may even see a hippo or two. Dar at 6.30am and returns at 10am, which
It features a 12-columned portico and good houses a 16th-century painting of the Ma- It s about 30 minutes from Bahir Dar by gives you enough time (two hours) to visit
paintings on the maqdas (inner sanctuary). donna, and mummified remains in glass speedboat. For info about reaching the out- the monasteries there. Zege Peninsula can
Spot the depiction of Iyasu before Christ. coffins of five former Ethiopian emperors let by road, see p113. also be reached by road (25km).
It s half an hour away by boat and a short (13th to 17th centuries). It s set on a hill
walk from the landing stage. nearly 100m above the lake, 35 minutes walk
JAMES BRUCE: IN SEARCH OF THE SOURCE
The original 14th-century church at Debre one way. The island is east of Dek Island.
Half undressed as I was by the loss of my sash, and throwing my shoes off, I ran down the
Maryam (admission Birr20) was rebuilt by Tewod- It s said the Ark of the Covenant was
hill towards the little island of green sods, which was about two hundred yards distant.
ros in the 19th century. It contains beautiful hidden at mysterious and historic Tana
& It is easier to guess than to describe the situation of my mind at that moment stand-
old manuscripts and a collection of church Cherkos (admission Birr50, men only) for 800 years.
ing in the spot which had baffled the genius, industry and enquiry of both ancients and
treasures. It s 30 minutes by boat and a short The present 19th-century church is rather
moderns, for the course of near three thousand years.
walk through coffee, mango and fig trees. modest. Tana Cherkos is 2½ hours from
James Bruce, Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile (1790; Gregg, Godstone, 1971)
Ura Kidane Meret (admission Birr20) is the Zege Bahir Dar by boat. From the landing it s a
Peninsula s most famous monastery and its 45-minute walk uphill.
maqdas is very beautifully painted. A com- Though most of the treasures of Mitsele One of the first European explorers in this part of Africa was a Scot, James Bruce, who was pas-
pendium of Ethiopian religious iconogra- Fasiladas (admission Birr20) were stolen in the sionate about unknown lands.
phy, it holds an important collection of 1990s, it s still worth visiting if you re in After serving as consul general in Algiers, he set off in 1768 in search of the Nile s source a
16th- and 18th-century crosses and crowns. the vicinity. The setting is attractive and the puzzle that had preoccupied people since the time of the Egyptian Pharaohs.
The peninsula is 35 minutes by boat from old church s foundations remain. It s on an After landing in Massawa, Eritrea, he made his way to the powerful and splendid court of
Bahir Dar. Turn left from the landing stage island just south of Tana Cherkos and is a Gonder, where he became close friends with Empress Mentewab.
and it s a straightforward 15-minute walk short walk from the landing. In 1770 he reached the source of the Abay, the main river that empties into Lake Tana. There
(despite what would-be guides tell you). As Like Ura Kidane Meret, Beta Giorgis (admis- he declared the mystery of the Nile s source solved. He dedicated his discovery to King George
the most-visited monastery, it attracts the sion Birr20) and Beta Maryam (admission Birr20) are III, and returned home to national acclaim.
most souvenir sellers and hustlers. found on the Zege Peninsula, There s an In fact, Bruce had traced only the source of the Blue Nile River, the main tributary of the Nile.
Set in the middle of the lake on Dek Is- important collection of crowns in a little Not only that, but he d been beaten to his discovery as he very well knew over 150 years
land, Narga Selassie (admission Birr20) is peaceful, museum (attributed to Yohannes IV) and earlier by a Spanish Jesuit, Pero Pais.
atmospheric and little visited. Built in the interesting paintings in the monasteries, Of greater interest was the account of his journey, Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile,
mid-18th century, it resembles Gonder s probably dating from the 19th century or published in 1790. It remains a very useful source of information on Ethiopia s history and cus-
castles. Effigies of Mentewab and James later. They re a short walk from the land- toms. His contemporaries considered much of it as gross exaggeration, or even as pure fiction.
Bruce are engraved on the church s exter- ing stage through lemon trees and coffee Given his earlier claims, no wonder.
ior, as are fine 18th-century paintings and plants.
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
Ferry
Reb
River
Ferry
Gum
ara
River
er
Riv
Nile
Abay)
Little
(Tinish
118 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Bl ue Ni l e Fal l s ( Ti s Isat) www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Gonder 119
The adventurous can troll the shoreline From the main viewpoint, continue along café and sipped early-morning macchia- Information
and try to hire a tankwa to visit Debre a path that leads over the narrow Alata River tos while wandering Gonder one day. It s INTERNET ACCESS
Maryam. before backtracking to the base of the falls. just important that you savour the surreal Circle Internet Cafe (Circle Hotel; per hr Birr15) Some of
From here you can complete the circuit experience. town s fastest connections.
BLUE NILE FALLS ( TIS ISAT ) by winding up along the path to the river With several complexes laden with clas- Proxy Computer (per hr Birr15; h24hr) Slow connec-
above the falls and crossing its banks by sical centuries-old stone castles and pal- tions but always open.
The impressive plumes of mist bellow- motorboat (following the so-called west- aces, it s easy to see how Gonder rightfully Star Internet (per hr Birr15) Decent connections and will
ing from the depths of the Blue Nile Falls ern route). The entire walk shouldn t take earned the moniker Africa s Camelot . burn images to your CD using USB connection (Birr15).
led locals to name it Tis Isat (Water that more than 90 minutes. The boat service (one And knowing that it is (and was) sur-
Smokes) or Tis Abay (Nile that Smokes). way/return Birr10/20) usually operates daily from rounded by fertile land and that it was at the MEDICAL SERVICES
Today, thanks to a hydroelectric project, 6.30am to 6pm. Trips in local tankwas are crossroads of three major caravan routes, Birhan Tesfa Clinic (%0581 115943; h24hr)
the once mighty falls have withered like an forbidden. If you re here early in the morn- it s just as easy to understand why Em- Gonder s best medical facilities.
aged chain smoker. How do you say Nile ing, watch for crocs. peror Fasiladas (r 1632 67) made Gonder Goha Pharmacy (h8am-9pm Mon-Sat) Helpful and
with emphysema in Amharic? Less energetic and less mobile people his capital in 1636. To the southwest lay well stocked.
Instead of the river s 400m width cascad- may want to approach and return from the rich sources of gold, civet, ivory and slaves,
ing over a sheer chasm to the rocks 37m falls on the less steep western route. to the northeast lay Massawa and access to MONEY
below, now there is only a stream (as little the Red Sea, and to the northwest lay Sudan Commercial Bank (h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)
as 4m wide) off the shallowest section (29m Getting There & Away and Egypt. Changes cash and travellers cheques.
high). The remaining mafic volcanic rocks Buses from Bahir Dar leave every few hours By Fasiladas death, Gonder s population United Bank S.C. (h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 3.30pm
that were once cooled by the flow now bake for Tis Isat village (Birr4.20, one bumpy already exceeded 65,000 and its wealth and Sat) Changes cash and travellers cheques.
in the sun and beg for water. hour), which is also known as Tis Abay. splendour had become legendary. Drifting
If you can manage to forget that it was From Tis Isat, the last bus travelling back through the old palaces, banqueting halls POST
once one of the most spectacular falls in to Bahir Dar leaves between 3pm and 4pm. and former gardens, it s not difficult to Post office (h8.30am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri)
Africa, a visit here is still worthwhile, par- We ve sadly heard of locals trying to make imagine the courtly pageantry, ceremony
ticularly in wet season. It s a pretty picnic travellers miss the last bus and then charg- and intrigue that went on here. TELEPHONE
spot and you may see parrots, bee-eaters, ing them Birr100 for a ride. Another scam The city flourished as capital for well Oddly, the telecommunications office above
lovebirds, touracos, white-throated seed- we discovered was men telling us upon ar- over a century before infighting severely the post office no longer offers international
eaters and vervet monkeys. rival in Tis Isat that to ensure a seat on the weakened the kingdom (see The Rise calls.
The falls are located 32km southeast bus back, we d need to pay them to hold and Fall of Gonder on p31). In the 1880s Telecenter (h8am-9pm) This outdoor kiosk lacks a sign,
of Bahir Dar, just beyond Tis Isat village. it for us. what remained of Gonder was extensively but only charges Birr15 per minute for international calls.
The ticket office (admission Birr15, personal video It s usually pretty easy to hitch back to looted by the Sudanese Dervishes. Despite
cameras Birr100; h7am-5.30pm) can arrange of- Bahir Dar (Birr8 to Birr10) if you ve missed this and the damaged sustained by British TOURIST INFORMATION
ficial guides (Birr30), but they aren t really the bus. bombs during the liberation campaign of Tourist information centre (%0581 110022;
necessary. The Ghion Hotel (%0582 200111) in Bahir Dar 1941, much of Gonder remains amazingly amhtour@ethionet.et; h8.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-
The path to the falls starts 50m west of runs two daily tours (8am and 3pm) to the intact. 5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm Sat) Helpful informa-
the ticket office. From there, walk east for falls. It charges Birr300 per group for trans- While luck and strong construction pre- tion and licensed city guides (Birr150 per day). Can arrange
about 1km until you see a tiny waterfalls portation and guide (up to 10 people). served most structures from rubbly fates, out-of-city 4WD tours (Simien Mountain day trips etc).
sign at a small junction. Go left (north) local legends state a timely swarm of bees
and after 400m you ll see a couple of rocky GONDER saved Debre Berhan Selassie, one of Ethi- TRAVEL AGENCIES
footpaths (on your left). They lead down pop 158,019 / elev 2210m opia s most colourful and famous churches, These reliable agencies can arrange every-
the so-called eastern route, which crosses It really isn t important whether your by simply chasing the devastating Dervishes thing from city tours to Simien Mountain
a 17th-century Portuguese bridge before friends believe that you slipped beneath away! treks. Prices range and negotiations are al-
turning west and climbing up past the little the shadows of grand 17th-century African Today, Gonder is a great place to spend a ways in order.
settlement towards the falls. castles, slid into a classic Italian Art Deco few days and is a convenient base to make Explore Abyssinia Travel (%0581 115311; explore
the leap into the Simien Mountains. abyssinia@ethionet.et)
0 500 m
Explore Simien Tours (%0581 116690, 0918 770280;
BLUE NILE FALLS (TIS ISAT)
0 0.3 miles
Orientation fasilm_675@yahoo.com; Quara Hotel)
Approximate Scale
Although Gonder is fairly spread out, it s Galaxy Express Services (%0581 111546; Goha Hotel)
Main
View- still a great place to navigate on foot or NTO (%0581 110379, 0918 775948)
Souvenir Stalls
point
& Village
by bicycle. The piazza marks the centre
Portuguese
Bridge of town and is laden with the most shops Dangers & Annoyances
Bus
Waiting
and services. Just south of the piazza is the Several travellers have complained about
Point
Tis Isat
Ticket
(Tis Abay)
Office Royal Enclosure and all its treasures, while children hassling them for money with im-
Village Western Route
Western Route
the road leading north is dotted with a ser- probable sob stories . The Notebook Scam
To Bahir Dar Eastern Route
Eastern Route
Hydroelectric
(30km)
Plant
ies of restaurants and hotels. (p157 ) is a popular ploy. A really good
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
Blue
Nile
River
Alata River
Falls
120 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Gonder www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Gonder 121
0 400 m
Ghebbi) was declared a World Heritage site the Italians. Although only the tower and
GONDER
0 0.2 miles
by Unesco in 1979. walls remain of Fasiladas archive, which sits
AC D
B
Free 90-minute guided tours (a tip will northwest of the library, the beauty of the
To Wolleka (6km); Debark
(101km); Simien Mountains
be expected) are worthwhile and available large arched doors and windows remains.
National Park (115km); Shire
(301km); Aksum (360km) 19
weekdays. On the weekend, you can hire a It was once an impressive palace decorated
17
1 local licensed guide near the gate for about with ivory.
INFORMATION Birr30. See the Royal Enclosure Map (p121) The compound s northern half holds ves-
Birhan Tesfa Clinic........................1 B3
(Some Minor Roads Not Depicted)
for the following sight locations. tiges of Emperor Dawit s Hall and House of
Circle Internet Cafe..................(see 14)
Commercial Bank.........................2 B4
Almost completely restored with the aid of Song, in which many religious and secular
Explore Abyssina Travel............(see 14)
Unesco, Fasiladas Palace (found in the com- ceremonies and lavish entertainments took
Explore Simien Tours....................3 B3
Galaxy Express Services............(see 17)
pound s south) is the oldest and most im- place. Dawit (r 1716-21) also built the first
Goha Pharmacy............................4 B3 16
pressive castle. It stands 32m tall and has a of two Lion Houses (the second was built by
NTO............................................5 C2
Post office....................................6 B3
crenulated parapet and four domed towers. Selassie) where Abyssinian lions were kept
20
18
Proxy Computer...........................7 B3
29 25
Made of roughly hewn stones, it s reputedly until 1992.
Star Internet.............................(see 26)
H
21
2 Telecenter....................................8 B3 5
the work of an Indian architect, and shows When Dawit came to a sticky end (he
Tourist Information Centre...........9 C3
24
15 To Debre Berhan
an unusual synthesis of Indian, Portuguese, was poisoned in 1721), the Emperor Bakaffa
United Bank SC..........................10 B3
Selassie Church
31
(1km)
Moorish and Aksumite influences. (r 1721 30) took up the reins of power and
22
To Empress
Mentewab's Kuskuam The main floor was used as a dining built the huge banqueting hall and the im-
Complex (2.5km)
hall and formal reception area; note the pressive stables.
11
8
6
30 recessed Star of David above several door- Between the stables and Dawit s Hall is
To Fasiladas' Bath (1km);
39
9
3
Zobel's Mausoleum (1km);
26 ways, which trumpet Fasiladas link to the the Turkish bath (wesheba), which apparently
Airport (20km); Gorgora (66km); 7
Piazza
Bahir Dar (183km); Woldia
4 Solomonic dynasty. The small room in the worked wonders for those suffering from
14
(327km); Shihedi (175km);
28
1
Metema & Sudan (215km) 10
northern corner boasts its original beam syphilis! Inside, some of the original cow-
EATING
38
3 Affinity Bar & Restaurant...........22 C2
ceiling and some faint frescoes. horn clothes hooks still protrude from the
Circle Hotel..............................(see 14)
13
On the 1st floor, Fasiladas prayer room walls. At the southern end you ll see the fire
Goha Hotel..............................(see 17)
Habesha Kitfo.............................23 B3
See Royal Enclosure map (p121)
36 has windows in four directions, each over- pit and the ceiling s steam vents.
Hash-Baz Café...........................24 C2
H
Mini Fogera...............................25 C2 looking Gonder s important churches. On
23
Ras Dashen Supermarket............26 B3
the roof, religious ceremonies were held, and
ROYAL ENCLOSURE
12
DRINKING it was from here that the emperor addressed
0 100 m
Abkeilish Tej Beat.......................27 B4
35
his people. Above Fasiladas 2nd-floor bed-
Abyssinia Café............................28 B3
Tekla
Haimonot's Goha Hotel..............................(see 17)
room was the watchtower, from where it s
Church
Hill Top Bar................................29 C2 Ras' Gate
possible to see all the way to Lake Tana.
27 New Sofa Juice...................................30 B3
Iyasus
Mentewab's
Public
4
Church
Castle
Behind the castle s eastern corner are var-
Mosque Garden
H
H
H
ENTERTAINMENT
ious ruined buildings, including the remains
Bar Balageru.............................(see 15)
Bru Box......................................31 C2
of the kitchen (domed ceiling) and water cis-
St Mikael's
tern (thought by some to be a pool).
Church SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SHOPPING
2
Banqueting Atatami
Ras Mikael Sehul's Palace...........11 C3 Basket Stalls...............................32 A5
Hall Mikael
To the palace s northeast is the saddle-
Royal Enclosure..........................12 B4 Merkato.....................................33 A5 Church
37 Pottery Stalls..............................34 A5 shaped palace of Iyasu I. The son of Yohannes Stables
Ilfign
SLEEPING Project Ploughshare Women's
I, Iyasu I (r 1682 1706) is considered the Bakaffa's Giyorgis
Turkish
Belegez Pension.........................13 C3 Pottery...................................35 B4
H Palace Church
Bath
Circle Hotel................................14 B3 greatest ruler of the Gonderine period.
House of
Fasil Hotel..................................15 C2 TRANSPORT
Iyasu s Palace was unusual for its vaulted Song Dawit's
Fogera Hotel..............................16 C2 Bicycle Hire................................36 C3
Lion
Hall
5
Princess Inkoi's Gate Houses
Goha Hotel................................. B1 Bus Station.................................37 B5
17
ceiling. The palace used to be sumptuously
(Visitors' Entrance and
Guday Hotel...............................18 B2 Ethiopian Airlines........................38 B3
Ticket Office)
34 decorated with gilded Venetian mirrors
Humera Pension......................... B1 Galaxy Express Services...........(see 17)
19
Spinners'
32
Misrak Pension..........................20 C2 NTO..........................................(see 5)
and chairs, and gold leaf, ivory and beauti- Gate
Ruins of
Yimam Hotel..............................21 C2 Taxis & Minibuses......................39 B3 (closed)
Banquet
33 ful paintings adorning the walls. Visiting
Fasiladas' Hall &
Walter Archive Storage
travellers described the palace as more
Plowden's Facilities
Library Palace of
Tomb
beautiful than Solomon s house . Although Iyasu I
Gemjabet
Chamberlain's
local initiative is the Peace of Mind project Sights a 1704 earthquake and British bombing in
Maryam Church
Gate (closed)
(which helps the genuinely hungry). Peace ROYAL ENCLOSURE the 1940s have done away with the interior
Ruins of Kitchen
Fasiladas' Fasiladas'
Water
of Mind food tokens (Birr5 for 10) can be It is pretty hard not to notice Gonder s and roof, its skeletal shell reeks of history.
Auditorium Palace
Cistern
Gemjabet
Maryam
bought from various hotels and restaurants, impressive Royal Enclosure (admission Birr50, North of Iyasu s Place are the relics of
Gate
Main Guards'
including Habesha Kitfo. personal video cameras Birr75; h8.30am-12.30pm & its banquet hall and storage facilities. To the
Gate (closed)
Another annoyance, especially if you re 1.30-5.30pm), with its regal castles and high west is the quadrangular library of Fasila-
left lathered at the time, is Gonder s lack of stone walls sitting streetside. The entire das son, Yohannes I (r 1667 82), which
Judges' Gate
Funerary Gate
(closed)
water do your best to conserve. 70,000-sq-metre site (also known as Fasil was sadly renovated and plastered over by (closed)
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
122 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Gonder www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Gonder 123
Bakaffa s consort was responsible for the times over! Yes, each of the 104 winged decorated with red volcanic tuff; spot the fig- called worthwhile. To get here from Gonder,
last castle, Mentewab s Castle, a two-storeyed Ethiopian cherubs dotting the beamed ures of crosses and Ethiopian characters and you can take a taxi (Birr40 return) or a gari
structure that s now part of an Ethiopian ceiling seem to have slightly different, but animals, such as St Samuel riding his lion. (horse-drawn cart; Birr10 return).
cultural heritage project. Note the Gonder equally quizzical expressions. The nearby smaller building is said to
cross being used as a decorative motif. Full of all the colour, life, wit and hu- have been the empress private residence. To Tours
manity of Ethiopian art at its best, the walls the residence s west used to be a fine church. City tours, which take in all the major sites,
FASILADAS BATH provide a compendium of Ethiopian saints, However, after damage from British bomb- are easily arranged at the tourist informa-
Around 2km northwest of town centre martyrs and lore. The devilish Bosch-like ing, it had to be rebuilt. A tiny glass-roofed tion centre. Guides cost Birr150 per full
lies Fasiladas Bath (admission incl in Royal Enclosure depiction of Hell has to be our favourite. coffin in its crypt contains the skeletons of day, and you can either walk, ride bikes,
ticket; h8.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm), a shady, A close second is the Prophet Mohammed the empress, her son and her grandson, the hop on local minibuses or charter a taxi for
beautiful and historical spot attributed to atop a camel being led by a devil. Although Emperors Iyasu II and Iyo as. the day (around Birr30 per hour).
both Fasiladas and Iyasu I. Until the five- most paintings within the church are his- The complex lies in the hills 3.5km For Simien Mountains tours and treks,
year project to fully restore the complex torically and happily attributed to the 17th- northwest of town. A taxi from the piazza see Planning (p127).
(financed by the Norwegian government century artist Haile Meskel, this can t be should cost about Birr25 return.
at a cost of Birr6.4 million) is completed in the case because the remarkable rectangular Festivals & Events
2008, we ll stop calling it peaceful too. That church of today only dates back to the late RAS MIKAEL SEHUL S PALACE Particularly good times to visit Gonder are
said, it s still worth a visit. 18th century. The original church was cir- during the festivals of Leddet (Christmas)
The large, rectangular sunken pool is cular (its foundations are still visible) and Although simply a smaller version of Fa- and Timkat. For more information on both
overlooked by a small but charming build- was created in the 1690s by Iyasu I. siladas palace, this place has a slightly fore- of these festivals, see p261.
ing, thought by some to be Fasiladas se- A large stone wall with 12 rounded towers boding air. Perhaps it s because it was the
cond residence. Almost out of Cambodia s surrounds the compound and represents residence of Ras Mikael, the dictator who Sleeping
Angkor Thom, snakelike tree roots envelop, the 12 apostles. The larger 13th tower (en- usurped power at the 18th-century s end, as BUDGET
support and digest sections of the stone trance gate) symbolises Christ and is shaped the monarchy became increasingly impo- Belegez Pension (%0581 114356; d with shared bath-
wall surrounding the pool. to resemble the Lion of Judah. If you have a tent and ineffectual. Later, the building was room Birr60, s/d Birr70/80) Simple smallish rooms
Although the complex was used for bath- keen eye, you ll be able to spot the lion s tail used more chillingly as a prison during surround a paved private courtyard that s
ing (royalty used to don inflated goatskin in the wall west of the church. Some histor- the rule of the Derg, and is said to have been perfect for parking your tired truck. The
lifejackets for their refreshing dips!), it was ians hypothesise the symbolic architecture the site of untold brutality and torture. rooms are bright and clean, as are the toilets
likely constructed for religious celebrations, is evidence the emperor planned to bring After long being closed to the public, it and hot showers. They have Ethiopia s best
the likes of which still go on today. Once a the Ark of the Covenant here from Aksum. should be finally open by the time you read budget-hotel towels huge and soft! Too
year, Fasiladas Bath is filled with water for Theories aside, it s clear Debre Berhan Se- this. bad the pillows are exactly the opposite!
the Timkat (p261). After being blessed by lassie or Trinity at the Mount of Light is one Reservations are wise.
a priest, the pool becomes a riot of spray- of Ethiopia s most remarkable churches. WOLLEKA (FALASHA VILLAGE) Fasil Hotel (%0581 110221; d/tw with shared bath-
ing water, shouts and laughter as the crowd Flash photography inside the church is Around 6km north of Gonder is the lit- room Birr50/60) The top-floor rooms are huge,
jumps in. The ceremony replicates Christ s forbidden. Priests offer tours but a small tle village of Wolleka, once the home of bright, airy and have a slight Italian feel.
baptism in the Jordan River, and is seen as contribution for the church should be left a thriving population of Falashas or Ethi- Ask for one that opens onto the balcony.
an important renewal of faith. afterwards. opian Jews. Before Christianity arrived, Ju- The shared showers are hot and usually
Just east of the main compound is Zobel s The church lies around 2km northeast of daism was the dominant religion of most of clean. It s occasionally a little noisy.
Mausoleum. Local legend states it s named the Royal Enclosure. northwestern Ethiopia. Misrak Pension (%0581 110069; d Birr100) Prices
after Yohannis I s horse, which heroically After the adoption of Christianity as the are entirely faranji-fied but the rooms are
brought Iyasu (Yohannis son) back from EMPRESS MENTEWAB S KUSKUAM state religion, Falashas had their land con- spotless and the mattresses are comfortable.
Sudan after his father s death. COMPLEX fiscated for refusing to convert. To survive, The tiny bathrooms are oh so clean. It s set
If you don t want to walk, minibuses Although less preserved than the Royal many became skilled craftsmen. Recent re- off a simple garden.
(Birr0.85) leaving from near the piazza Enclosure, this royal compound known as search suggests Falashas may have provided Yimam Hotel (%0581 110470; d & tw with shared
pass here. Kuskuam (admission Birr25, personal video cameras Birr75; the labour for the castle s construction and bathroom Birr50) If next-door Fasil is full, this
You must obtain your ticket at the Royal is equally cap- decoration. is a close option. The rooms are on the
h8.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm)
Enclosure before visiting Fasiladas Bath. tivating. It offers an impressive mix of views From 1985 to 1991 many Falashas were small and dark side, but the shared toilets
over the countryside, each dramatically airlifted to Israel, and today only a hand- (squat) are as clean as they come. Showers
DEBRE BERHAN SELASSIE CHURCH framed by the complex s crumbling rem- ful remain. Sadly, the pottery for which are sadly all cold.
nants. It was built in 1730 for the redoubt- they were once famous has degenerated Circle Hotel (%0581 111991; s/tw Birr92/115) With
Despite the walls of Debre Berhan Selassie able Empress Mentewab, after the death of into clumsy, half-hearted affairs. However, glass exterior walls, this high-rise offers
(admission Birr25; h6am-noon & 1.30-5.30pm) host- her husband (Emperor Bakaffa). the Project Ploughshare Women s Crafts some nice views and is easily the brightest
ing the most vibrant ecclesiastical artwork Like the Royal Enclosure, it s made up of Training Center, which helps disadvantaged hotel in town. Sadly, all that light means you
in the nation, it s the ceiling that captures a series of buildings including a long, castel- women learn a craft, is worth supporting. won t miss spotting the stained green car-
most visitors imaginations. Think of Mona lated palace used for state receptions and The old synagogue and Falasha homes pets and occasional cockroach. Some rooms
Lisa s mysterious smile and multiply it 104 to house the royal garrison. Its exterior is can be visited, but a special trip can t be are better than others, so check a few.
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
124 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Gonder www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Around Gonder 125
Other options: Drinking hours, three daily), Debark (Birr14.10, 3½ architecture buffs should make the trip.
Humera Pension (%0581 110959; tw Birr80) Goha Hotel (beer Birr7) There s nowhere better hours, two daily), Gorgora (Birr9.10, 1½ Also in the area is the Portuguese Cathedral
Guday Hotel (%0581 110959; d/tw with shared in town for a sunset drink than the hotel s hours, two daily) and Woldia (Birr53.35, two (Map p116 ; admission free) built by Susenyos. It s
bathroom Birr50/70) lofty garden terrace. days, twice weekly). For Aksum, go first to decrepit state is evidence of his failed at-
Abyssinia Café (drinks Birr1.50-4.50) This classic Shire (Birr40.60, 11 hours, 6am). For longer tempt to force Catholicism on his people.
MIDRANGE & TOP END Italian café in the heart of the piazza is a journeys, buy tickets a day in advance. If the lake s waters are calling, you can
Goha Hotel (%0581 110634; ghion@ethionet.et; s/tw/ true throwback to the days of old. The cof- visit Tana s northern monasteries. Mendaba
ste US$38/50/75) Perched on a high natural fee is great and the beer is cheap. CAR & 4WD Medhane Alem (Map p116; admission Birr20, men only)
balcony and boasting a gorgeous garden Abkeilish Tej Beat (bottles of tej Birr5) This well- NTO (%0581 110379) and Galaxy Express Services hosts ancient biblical manuscripts and
terrace overlooking the town, this is eas- known tej beat (purveyor of honey wine) is (%0581 111546; Goha Hotel) rent out vehicles some of Ethiopia s most dedicated priests,
ily Gonder s nicest hotel. While wool wall the best place to delve into some stiff tej. with drivers; this should be prearranged. while Birgida Maryam (Map p116 ; admission Birr20,
hangings, stone walls and embroidered Hill Top Bar (h6pm-1am) American-inspired On short notice, Abraham Tigabu (%0918 men only) is known for its 16th-century paint-
bedding are nice touches, it s the views but insuppressibly Ethiopian. Try, if you 770386; abrahamtig@yahoo.com) and his trusty Land ing of Mary. Both are around 30 minutes
from rooms 201 to 209 that steal the show. dare, a gin fir fir (gin mixed with beer), or, Cruiser will do the trick. Day trips to Sanka- from Gorgora by boat.
The room layout, with nifty triangular par- less potent, wine diluted with Coca-Cola! ber in the Simien Mountains should cost no With the exception of Debre Sina, you ll
tition, is identical to all other government Sofa Juice (juices Birr3) If your insides are call- more than Birr900 with driver and fuel. need a local guide to find most of the sights.
Ghion Hotels. ing for drinks of a healthy variety, get your There are occasionally fuel shortages, so Tesfaye Mekonnen (%0581 117732), who s usu-
Fogera Hotel (%0581 110405; s/tw/tr US$20/25/35) vitamin and fruity fix at this juice haven. fill up when you can. ally found at the Gorgora Port Hotel, is a
While the rooms in the old Italian building reliable option.
are begging for renovations, the garden tukuls Entertainment Getting Around
(conical thatched huts) have aged well and Mimicking the success of Bahir Dar s Ba- A taxi to or from the airport, which is SLEEPING & EATING
are quite attractive and comfortable. Each has lageru Cultural Club, several traditional 21km from town, costs between Birr30 and Gorgora Port Hotel (%0581 117732; camping Birr25,
high ceilings and hot-water showers. bars have opened in Gonder. Azmaris (see Birr40. Chartering a taxi to see Gonder s tw Birr80, 3-bedroom ste Birr180) The two massive
the boxed text, p53 ) sing along to their sights costs about Birr30 per hour, but suites scream Brady Bunch, ooze 1970s and
Eating masenkos (single-stringed fiddle), women you ll have to negotiate hard for this. Taxis are a little worn, but sit mere feet from the
Habesha Kitfo (mains Birr17-35) Lovingly and trad- dance and everybody has a good time. and minibuses congregate near the piazza. shore, allowing the sounds of lapping waves
itionally decked out with woven mat floor, Bar Balageru (admission free) The most fun Minibuses charge between Birr0.50 and to put you soundly to sleep. The small twins
cowhide stools and leather chairs, this is a and most packed. A glass of tej is Birr5. Birr1.75 for hops around town; garis cost are also bright and clean, but are further
good place for great Ethiopian food. Vege- Bru box (admission free) You ll hear the drum- around Birr1 to Birr5. from shore. Electricity runs between 6pm
tarian fasting food is available daily. beats from a block away. It s good fun but Bicycles can be hired (Birr5 per hour) and 10pm. The restaurant (mains Birr7 to
Mini Fogera (mains Birr8-12) Although this the faranji drink prices are stupidly steep. outside the Royal Enclosure s northeast Birr16) is good and specialises in fish.
place s cushion-covered cement stalls won t corner.
win your bottom s approval, its Ethiopian Shopping GETTING THERE & AROUND
fare just might win your stomach s. Merkato (hsunrise-sunset) The obvious choice AROUND GONDER Two daily buses run to Gonder (Birr9.10,
Goha Hotel (mains Birr16-23) Dine on roast for shoppers. Within the market and on Gorgora 1½ hours).
lamb, fish cutlet, lentil soup or other West- surrounding streets you ll find basket, pot- pop 3100 / elev 1880m A ferry sails from Gorgora for Bahir Dar
ern favourites in this hotel s massive and tery and cloth stalls. The little lakeshore town of Gorgora, 67km every Thursday at 6am (Birr104.50, 1½ days).
bright dining room. If you order wine, en- You can support Project Ploughshare by south of Gonder, makes a pleasant excur- The ferry typically overnights in Konzola,
sure it s opened at the table. buying pottery in Wolleka or at the un- sion for those with time, particularly for where there s food and a couple of cheap
Circle Hotel (mains Birr20-30) After singing the marked stall opposite the Royal Enclosure. travellers interested in birds (see p117). hotels. Buy tickets at the Lake Tana Transport
wheels on the bus go round and round, Enterprise office (h8am-11.30am & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri,
round and round, round& as you make Getting There & Away SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 8am-noon Sat). The same office rents speedboats
your way up the spiralling stairs, plant your- For information about reaching Sudan, The most interesting relic of Gorgora s (Birr112 per hour for one to six people) for
self on the rooftop restaurant and cross your see p275. former days as a temporary capital is the at- trips to the monasteries and local ruins.
fingers faranji fare here is hit or miss. We tractive Church of Debre Sina (Map p116; admission
happily hit a good burger. AIR Birr25). Built in 1608 by Emperor Susenyos SIMIEN MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK
Affinity Bar & Restaurant (mains Birr7-15) This Ethiopian Airlines (%0581 110129) flies once or son on the site of a 14th-century monastery,
place is popular with local businessmen for twice daily to Addis Ababa (US$102, 1½ to it s decorated with vivid 17th-century poly- No matter how you look at them, the Sim-
an Ethiopian meal at lunch. Dine inside or two hours), Bahir Dar (US$37, 17 minutes), chromatic frescoes. Ask to see the Egyptian ien Mountains will leave you speechless. For
on the parking-lot-looking patio. Lalibela (US$51, 30 minutes) and Aksum St Mary . trekkers, the lack of words will be the result
Hash-Baz Café (snacks Birr2) With great crois- (US$73, 1¾ hours). Emperor Susenyos (r 1607 32) built a of their lungs screaming after slogging up
sants, cakes and pastries, it s a fine spot for palace (Map p116 ; admission free) on a peninsula a scree slope at 4200m. For animal-lovers,
breakfast. BUS 10km west of Gorgora, which can be reached it will be the trepidation of sitting among a
Ras Dashen Supermarket (h8am-9pm) Load Buses leave for Addis Ababa (Birr82.50, in 30 minutes by road or boat. Compared group of 100 gelada baboons that zaps their
up on Simien Mountain supplies here. two days, 6am), Bahir Dar (Birr 22, four to Gonder, it s in shambles but historical vocabulary. For everyone with a heartbeat,
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
126 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Si mi en Mountai ns Nati onal Park www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Si mi en Mountai ns Nati onal Park 127
it will simply be standing atop a panoramic The Simiens landscape is incredibly dra- Planning
VANISHING WOLVES
precipice and looking out over the Abyssin- matic. It was formed by countless eruptions, Although organising trekking yourself at
ian abyss that takes their breath away. some 40 million years ago; layer upon layer park headquarters in Debark is straightfor- Though it derived its original name (Simien
fox) from these mountains, the Ethiopian
Whether you come for a stroll or two- of molten lava was poured until it reached ward, it still takes two hours to complete. It s
wolf is close to extinction in the area. Many
week trek, the Simien Mountains make a a thickness of 3000m. The subsequent ero- best to arrive at headquarters the afternoon
have died from diseases caught from local
great break from the historical circuit s con- sion produced the mountains jagged and before you plan on starting your trek.
dogs, others have died after eating rats poi-
stant monument-bashing. Besides the myth- spectacular landscapes seen today. Organising treks through agencies in
soned by villagers to protect their crops, or
ical baboons (see the boxed text, p128), it s The famous pinnacles that sharply and Gonder and Addis Ababa is easy, but you
in traps. Hybridisation with dogs is another
also home to a variety of endemic mammals, abruptly rise from the surrounding land- may end up paying more for the same trip.
threat to the species survival. Fortunately,
birds and plants, including the beautiful and scape are volcanic necks, the solidified
the endemic animal is faring far better in
massively horned walia ibex. Thanks to its plumbing of the eroded ancient volcanoes. WHEN TO GO
the Bale Mountains to the south (see the
wildlife, the park is a World Heritage site. The 179-sq-km park lies within the December to March is the driest time; after
boxed text, p184 ).
Although facilities for trekkers are few Afro-alpine zone, between 1900m and the rainy season in October, the scenery is
(the undeveloped state of the park is actu- 4543m elevation. greenest and the wildflowers are out.
ally one of its attractions), the mountains During the main rainy season, between
are nevertheless easily accessible and treks Wildlife June and September, mist often obscures the their fees can be refunded; make sure this is
can be quickly organised. The mountains are home to three of Ethi- views and trails can be slippery underfoot. clear before setting off.
The Simien Mountains aren t to be opia s larger endemic mammals: the walia But, you re still assured of several hours of
missed they undoubtedly rank among ibex (numbers estimated at 515 in 2005), clear, dry weather for walking; the rain tends MAPS
Africa s most beautiful ranges. the gelada baboon (estimated to number to come in short, sharp downpours. The most useful trekking map is produced
around 6000) and the elusive Ethiopian Daytime temperatures are consistently by the well-respected Institute of Geogra-
Geography & Geology wolf (estimated between 45 and 70). Other between 11.5°C and 18°C, while 3°C is typi- phy, University of Berne, Switzerland: the
Comprising one of Africa s principal mammals sometimes seen are rock hyraxes, cal at night. October to December night- Simen [sic] Mountains Trekking Map (2003;
mountain massifs, the Simiens are made jackals, bushbucks and klipspringers. time temperatures can dip below freezing. 1:100,000). The park rents a laminated ver-
up of several plateaus, separated by broad Endemic birds include the often-seen sion for Birr20 per day. If you want your
river valleys. A number of peaks rise above thick-billed raven, and the less common PARK FEES own copy, it s best to get it before leaving
4000m, including Ras Dashen (4543m), black-headed siskin, white-collared pigeon, All fees are good for 48 hours and are pay- home. It can also occasionally be found in
which is highly touted incorrectly so white-billed starling, wattled ibis, spot- able at the park headquarters (%0581 113482; Gonder or in Debark s Simien Park Hotel
by Ethiopian tourism officials as the fourth- breasted plover, white-backed black tit and admission Birr50, camping Birr20, 5-seat vehicle Birr10; (p130; Birr200 to Birr215).
highest mountain in Africa. They seem Ankober seedeater or serin. Though com-
h8.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-
to have happily forgotten the Ruwenzori mon, one of the most memorable sights (and noon & 2-5pm Sat & Sun). EQUIPMENT
Range s Mt Speke (4890m), Mt Baker sounds!) is the lammergeyer soaring low. Entrance and camping fees won t be re- Mattresses (Birr10 per day), sleeping bags
(4844m), Mt Emin (4792m), Mt Gessi Along the roadside on the approach to funded once paid. However, if mules, cooks, (Birr10 per day), two-person tents (Birr25
(4717m) and Mt Luigi (4626m), as well as Sankaber, look out for the ivory-coloured, guides and scouts aren t used (because of per day) and cooking equipment and gas
Tanzania s Mt Meru (4566m)! endemic Abyssinian rose. bad weather or acclimatisation difficulties), stoves (Birr30 per day) can be hired at park
headquarters. Debark s petrol station sells
0 10 km
kerosene.
0 6 miles
SIMIEN MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK
To Adi Arkay
Amba To Silki
(50km)
(1km)
BerAntola SUPPLIES
Dengerko
Agidamya
Sona
H H H H Beroch Kiddus Yared
Dirni
Wuha (4435m)
Outside Debark, there are no shops; you can
Sabra
Imet Tiya
Arkwasiye (4272m)
Kadavit Berje
Gogo
Amiwalka buy eggs (three eggs Birr1), chickens (Birr15
Saha Azmari
Truwata
Nariya Tiguna
Muchila (3926m)
Lori
Menta Ber
Dihwara Metelal Weynobar to Birr20) and sheep (Birr80 to Birr150)
Debirichwa
Pass (4465m)
Geech
Innatiye
Gidir Got Maje from mountain villages. Your guide will
Chenek
(3428m)
To Adi Arkay
Flasha
Mikana
Chiro negotiate prices. Mule handlers will gladly
(65km); Aksum Analu
Simien Mountains
Korbete
Geech Leba Tefew Leser
(250km) Geech (4473m)
National Park
Metia
Village (4449m) kill, skin and roast a sheep if they can tuck in
Abyss
Michotis Argin Mizma
H H H H
Michibi Bwahit
Ras Dashen too. If you leave the carcass a little way from
Mendar Ambikwa
(4430m)
(4543m)
Ambaras Selam
Abergina Main Trekking camp, it may attract a lammergeyer.
Sankaber
Ayteter
Route
Buyit
Michibiny
Gonder is a better place to stock up as
Ras
Mesarerya
4WD Track
(4353m)
Debark s food supplies are limited to a few
Bahramba
Main Animal
Simien Lodge Tsion
& Scenery
tin cans, biscuits, pasta, tomato sauce and
Buyit Ras Adibado
Kilil
Shiwa View Points
Campsite
Timirk
Debir Abare milk powder, plus some fresh fruit and
Dildiy
Hiking Path
Barna
Digowa
Barangeb Mewa
H H H H (3973m) vegetables. Stoves, lanterns and kerosene
Sakba
(paraffin) are also available in Gonder. Any-
Debark
Felasha
Adebabay
Mender
To thing specialised , such as packet soups,
Gonder
Bashaye
(97km) should be bought in Addis Ababa.
Simien Mountains National Park
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
Bembiya
Ansiya
River
River
River
E s c a r p m e n t
Jinbar
E a s t e r n
N o r t h e r n E s c a r p m e n t
t
n
n
e
e
h
m
River
s
p
a
r
D
a
c
s
River
Wazla
E
Derena
River
Temey
Lamna
Koray
Ango
Mesheba
River
Belegez
River
ba
River
Serekawa
River
River
River
128 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Si mi en Mountai ns Nati onal Park www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Si mi en Mountai ns Nati onal Park 129
Porters aren t available, but mules (Birr20 Be sure to allow time for acclimatisation escarpment isn t to be missed. There are par-
MONKEY TROUBLE
per day) with handlers (Birr20 per day) can when planning your routes, particularly if ticularly good views between Michibi and
Astoundingly beautiful, and ever so slightly
be hired. The guide and scout will expect at you re aiming for Ras Dashen. Review the Sankaber. Look out for gelada baboons.
scary when they yawn (those are serious
least one mule for carrying their blankets Safety Guidelines for Trekking (p254) and From Sankaber to Geech it s between
choppers!), gelada baboons are a favourite
and provisions. Check mules for tender feet Responsible Trekking (p255) boxed texts. four and five hours walk.
sight among visitors. However, the extraor- (ask the owner to walk the mule up and
dinary animal is little appreciated by locals.
down) and signs of saddle sores. If in doubt, CHOOSING A TREKKING ROUTE GEECH CAMP TO CHENEK VIA IMET GOGO
Resented for its alleged damage to crops
ask for another. For spectacular scenery, head for Geech. (20KM, SEVEN TO NINE HOURS)
and pasture, it has become the scapegoat
Guides, cooks and mule handlers should For walia ibex, Chenek is good (be sure Geech to Chenek takes about five to six
for more sinister goings-on, too. Accord- bring their own food. Many bring token to get here no later than 9am). Gelada hours, but you d be crazy not to take in Imet
ing to local police reports, gelada baboons
offerings or nothing at all and will then baboons are best between Buyit Ras and Gogo, around 5km northeast of Geech. It
are responsible for local thefts, burglaries,
look to you for sustenance. Either check Sankaber; Chenek and Geech aren t bad takes 1½ to two hours one way.
rapes and even murders in one case
that they have enough or bring extra pack- either. For pleasant walking, the stretch The promontory, at 3926m, affords some
bursting into a house to drag an adult man
ets of rice etc. between Geech and Chenek is good. For of the most spectacular views of the Simien
1.5km before shoving him off a cliff face! If
If you plan on covering two days worth lammergeyer, head to Chenek. Mountains. To make a day of it, you could
in doubt, blame the gelada!
of trekking in one, you ll have to pay your Ras Dashen, frankly, doesn t offer a great continue to the viewpoint known as Saha.
Unless you want to test locals theories,
team double for the day. deal beyond the satisfaction of bagging it . From Saha, you can head for the viewpoint
don t chase or try to feed the gelada. See
See p264 for post-trek tipping advice. And thanks to an odd perspective from its at Kadavit (2.5km, 30 to 40 minutes), then
also the boxed text, p61 .
summit, nearby peaks actually look higher. return to camp.
ORGANISED TREKS This has led disgruntled trekkers to drag You can also trek to Chenek via Imet Gogo
There are numerous tour operators or travel their guides up peak after peak, repeatedly using Saha as a starting point (eight to nine
Water is available during the trek but agencies in Addis Ababa (see p282) and sev- musing the one over there is higher! hours). Saha lies around 3km from Geech.
should be treated. Make sure the cook, if eral more in Gonder (p119) that can organ- With two days you could walk from From Imet Gogo you have two choices:
you have one, boils the water sufficiently. ise transport, guides, equipment rental and Debark to Sankaber and back. With four the first is to return to Geech by your out-
Though eucalyptus wood (sold by villag- food. Since the agencies are just hiring the days you could reach Geech; with five you ward route, then head directly south, back
ers on the mountain) is permitted for fires, same services from park headquarters that could get to Chenek, taking in Mt Bwa- across the Jinbar River to where you ll
it s best to bring a stove. Burning wood you d get if organising it yourself, you can hit; and with around 10 days you could eventually meet the dirt road that leads to
from indigenous trees is strictly forbidden. use the costs mentioned previously (park bag Ras Dashen (these times include the Chenek. The alternative, which is harder
If you re worried about warmth, do as fees, equipment, supplies, guides, scouts, return journey to Debark). If you re short but more scenic, is to follow the escarpment
the locals do: buy a gabi (Birr45 to Birr90 cooks and mules etc) to judge the agen- on time and want to maximise your time edge south all the way to Chenek.
depending on the size) at Debark market, cies quotes and negotiate accordingly. See in the mountains, using a vehicle to access Near Chenek is Korbete Metia, a stun-
which makes a great blanket, sheet, pillow, Getting There & Away (p131) and Getting Sankaber will save at least two days. ning spot with a sinister side. It was here
shawl or cushion. Around (p131) for transportation costs. The following is a classic route; the lower that some regional officials were executed.
There are also numerous freelance camps can be bypassed using a vehicle. Times Korbete Metia loosely translates to the
GUIDES, SCOUTS, COOKS & MULES agents in Gonder offering to organise treks vary from person to person, and also depend place where skin was thrown down . Lam-
Cooks, scouts, mules and guides are all for you, but most receive mixed reviews at on whether exact routes are followed. The mergeyers are often seen here.
organised at park headquarters. best from travellers. following routes and times have been de- Chenek is probably the best spot in the
Official guides (Birr75 per day) are recom- vised in consultation with local guides. Simien Mountains for wildlife.
mended and help translate while in villages. Trekking For those who want to return to Sanka-
Although freelancers, they re trained by the The foot that is restless, will tread on Debark to Ras Dashen Trek ber from Chenek (seven to eight hours)
national park on courses established by an a turd. DEBARK TO BUYIT RAS (10KM, THREE TO but avoid most of the dirt road, a scenic
Austrian team. Most are excellent, a few are Ethiopian proverb FOUR HOURS) local trail up to Ambaras through the vil-
less so. Guides work by rota, but you should Sankaber can be reached in a single day, lage of Argin can be followed. The trail af-
not be afraid to ask for another if you re not Most treks begin and end in Debark, but it s but many trekkers prefer to break at Buyit fords good views of the escarpment and the
happy with the one assigned to you. possible to use 4WDs to start or end your Ras, where there s an abundance of gelada foothills of Mt Bwahit.
Most people who ve hired cheaper unoffi- hike anywhere between Debark and Chenek. baboons. There s also a camping spot with
cial guides off the street end up regretting If you have time, strong legs and a hatred of beautiful views, though you ll have to share CHENEK TO MT BWAHIT & RETURN (6KM,
the decision. See p260 for more. doubling back, you could finish your trek at the area with a new resort that opened in TWO TO THREE HOURS)
Scouts (armed park rangers) are com- Adi Arkay, 75km north of Debark. 2006. If you push on to Sankaber, it s an- The summit of Mt Bwahit (4430m) lies to
pulsory (Birr30 per day). Few speak Eng- Once on the mountains you ll be follow- other 13km (around three to four hours). the southeast of the camp. From the top,
lish, but what they lack in conversation they ing centuries-old paths that crisscross the you can see a tiny piece of Ras Dashen.
make up for in willingness to help. slopes and connect villages with pasture- BUYIT RAS TO GEECH CAMP VIA Around 20 minutes from the camp to-
Cooks can be hired for Birr50 per day lands. They make terrific trekking routes; SANKABER (25KM, SEVEN TO EIGHT HOURS) wards Mt Bwahit, there s a spot that affords
(cooking for one to five people), a welcome the walking itself is generally not challeng- The dirt road will take you straight to one of the best opportunities for glimpsing,
and not-too-costly luxury for some. ing and gradients aren t too steep. Sankaber, but the scenic route along the at long range (around 300m to 400m), the
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
130 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Si mi en Mountai ns Nati onal Park www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Shi re 131
walia ibex. This animal, a member of the Other Routes covered with a goatskin serves as your bed- You may be able to hitch a lift in the back
wild goat family, lives on the crags of the There are endless alternatives for keen room; any number and combination of ani- (around Birr30).
steep escarpment above 3000m. Come very trekkers, such as a return route from Ras mals, children, chickens and especially fleas
early in the morning or late in the after- Dashen back to Ambikwa and Chenek, via will be your roommates. SHIRE
noon (after 4pm) with binoculars. On our the east and north sides of the Mesheba Simien Lodge (%0116 189398, 0911 203937; www pop 53,195 / elev 1923m
last trip we were lucky enough to see two River. .simiens.com; dm US$15-20, d US$95-105, 4-person VIP tukul Shire, marked on some maps as Inda Selas-
males going head to head on a precarious One slightly more challenging route that US$135-150) This new lodge opened at Buyit sie, is of interest to travellers only because
slope, with the crashes of their collisions will give you a taste of the highlands as Ras in 2006. Dubbed northern Ethiopia s it provides a link with Aksum, 60km to the
echoing through the crisp air. well as the lowlands, and bags some 4000m first ecolodge, it plans to promote sustain- east. However, the journey from Debark to
on the way (and is much more interesting able development and encourages guests Shire (and in particular the stretch of road
CHENEK TO AMBIKWA (22KM, EIGHT TO than climbing Ras Dashen), is from Debark to help with charity work in Debark. The between Debark and Adi Arkay) is one of
NINE HOURS) to Adi Arkay via Sankaber, Geech, Chenek thatch-roofed tukuls are very comfortable the most dramatic in Ethiopia.
From Chenek, a track leads eastward then (climbing Mt Bwahit at 4430m), Arkwasiye and come complete with solar-powered The beautifully constructed Italian road
southeastward up towards a good viewpoint (climbing Beroch Wuha at 4272m) and underfloor heating. The 16-bed dormitory cuts its way through the mountains in a series
on the eastern escarpment, to the north of Sona (climbing Silki at 4420m). The route even has solar-powered showers, though of neat loops and bends and provides im-
Mt Bwahit. To the east, across the vast val- should take around nine to 10 days. Note immersion heaters help things along dur- pressive views. Around Adi Arkay, look out
ley of the Mesheba River, you can see the that, since it takes the guides, mules and ing the rainy season. The bar and restaurant for the peak known as Awaza (occasionally
bulk of Ras Dashen. other members of your trekking entou- are centred on open fires; meals must be represented on the back of Ethiopian Airlines
rage two further days to return to Debark ordered when booking the room. tickets).
AMBIKWA TO RAS DASHEN & RETURN from Adi Arkay, you must pay two days Sankaber Lodge (dm Birr40) For day-trippers, The plains on the outskirts of Shire were
(17KM, EIGHT TO 10 HOURS) extra fee. there is this spartan lodge, which has a the scene of fighting between the Tigrayans
Most trekkers stay two nights at Ambikwa couple of nine-bed dorms. Don t expect and the advancing Italians in the 1930s, and
and go up to the summit of Ras Dashen on Sleeping & Eating more than a rickety bed, blanket, some old later Mengistu s army in the civil war. Keep
the day in between. It s a good idea to start DEBARK bed linen and possibly the odd flea. an eye out for war relics.
at first light. Simien Park Hotel (%0581 113481; s/d/tw with shared If you get stuck in Shire (and you will if
At Ras Dashen there are three distinct bathroom Birr30/40/50, tw Birr70) About 600m north Getting There & Away you arrive here after 4pm), the Jelly Café (s with
points, and much debate about which is the of park headquarters, this place is simple Two morning buses run from Debark to shared bathroom Birr15) is by far the nicest sleeping
true summit. Whichever peak you go for, and reasonably clean. Rooms come in baby Gonder (Birr14.10, 3½ hours). The only bus option. The rooms are small, tidy and bright
the total walk from Ambikwa to reach one blue, and showers (shared and private) are running north to Shire (for Aksum) is the (No 7 is best). The toilet and shower is basic
summit is about five to six hours. If you hot. Reservations are advised, particularly in Gonder service (Birr35, 7½ hours). It typi- but clean. It s 200m west of the bus station.
want to knock off the others, add two to January. Its bar/restaurant serves local and cally arrives in Debark between 9am and There are several buses and minibuses to
three hours for each one. Returning by the faranji food (Birr8 to Birr13) and drink. 10am, but is usually full. If so, either head Aksum daily (Birr10 to Birr15, 1½ hours).
same route takes about three to four hours. Red Fox Hotel (%0581 117807; s/d/tw with shared back to Gonder or hitch a lift north. From One daily bus serves Gonder (Birr40.60, 11
bathroom Birr25/35/45) This should only be an Shire, take the Gonder bus (Birr40.60) and hours, 6am).
Return Routes option if Simien Park Hotel is full. It has big ask to be dropped at Debark.
AMBIKWA TO DEBARK (77KM, THREE DAYS) rooms and a satellite TV in its bar, but it s It s possible to arrange 4WDs in Gonder AKSUM
Most trekkers return from Ambikwa to De- not the cleanest and the shared bathrooms to drop you off at Debark (Birr450, two pop 41,500 / elev 2130m
bark along the same route via Chenek and are rather rough. It s set a block west of the hours), Sankaber (Birr850, 3½ hours) or Sprawling, dusty, and rural Aksum is mod-
Sankaber. If you re tired or have had enough, main street. Chenek (Birr1000, five hours). If arranged, est almost to a fault. On first sight, it s hard
you may be able to hitch a lift (Birr30) with they can also pick you up. Return costs are to imagine that the town was ever the site
the odd truck that plies the route. ON THE MOUNTAINS the same. See Car & 4WD on p125 for con- of a great civilisation. Yet Aksum is one of
Camping (per 48hr Birr20) The obvious choice tact details. Ethiopia s star attractions. Littered with mas-
AMBIKWA TO ADI ARKAY (ABOUT 65KM, for trekkers. It s possible anywhere, but if If you hike out to Adi Arkay, you can try sive teetering stelae, ruins of palaces, under-
THREE TO FIVE DAYS) you re in the vicinity of an the official camp to get a seat on the Gonder Shire bus. We ground tombs (most still undiscovered) and
One alternative return route is to trek from (Sankaber, Geech and Chenek) it s more had no luck, so paid Birr50 for a cab seat in inscriptions rivalling the Rosetta stone itself,
Ambikwa to Arkwasiye, to the northeast of convenient to drop your tent there. These a local truck heading to Shire. the town once formed part of the Aksumite
Chenek, taking in the nearby peaks of Be- camps have huts for your guides and scouts, kingdom that Dr Neville Chittick described
roch Wuha (4272m) and Silki (4420m). as well as long drop loos. Besides the new Getting Around as the last of the great civilisations of An-
From Arkwasiye to Adi Arkay will block of toilets just south of Sankaber, most It s possible to arrange a 4WD at park head- tiquity to be revealed to modern knowledge .
take another two to three days of strenu- toilets are rather filthy. quarters to drop you off and pick you up at Aksum is undoubtedly one of the most im-
ous walking, via Sona (three hours from If you don t have camping equipment Sankaber (one way/return Birr400/800 after portant and spectacular ancient sites in sub-
Arkwasiye). (and don t want to rent it) you can do as negotiations). Saharan Africa. Justifiably, Unesco lists it as
From Adi Arkay, which lies 75km north the guides do: stay with locals (you should Usually at least one supply truck plies the a World Heritage site.
of Debark, you can continue northward to contribute about Birr10 per night). Don t road daily to Chenek (leaving Debark at Aksum has a vibrancy, life and continu-
Aksum. expect luxuries. A floor or wooden platform around 6am and returning the same day). ing national importance very rarely found
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
132 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Aksum www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Aksum 133
AKSUM S FALL
After Aksum lost its grip on Red Sea trade, due to the rise of Islamic Arabs fortunes, the society
quickly imploded and sent Ethiopia into the dark ages for five centuries. Why this happened
when it was still rich in natural resources is the subject of many theories.
The environmental argument suggests that Aksum s ever-increasing population led to over-
cropping of the land, deforestation and eventually soil erosion. The climatic explanation claims
that a slight global warming took place, which finished Aksum s agriculture and eventually led
to drought and famine. The military argument claims that Aksum was undermined by continual
incursions from neighbouring tribes, such as the Beja from the northwest of the country.
According to tradition, Aksumite power was usurped around the 9th century by the dreaded
warrior queen Gudit (or Judit), a pagan or Jew, who killed the ruling king, burnt down the city
and sabotaged the stelae (definitely the least boring explanation!). Intriguingly, this legend seems
to be born out by at least two documents written at about this time.
at ancient sites. Pilgrims still journey to Information
Aksum and the great majority of Ethiop- INTERNET ACCESS
ians believe passionately that the Ark of the Africa Hotel (Map p133; per hr Birr60) Town s fastest
Covenant resides here. and most reliable Internet option (though that s not saying
H
Though no longer a wealthy metropolis, much!). Found in a small room off the courtyard. Ask the
the town continues to flourish as a centre manager to open it for you.
of local trade; life continues as it has for Alpha Internet (Map p133; per hr Birr48) Slow but
millennia. Around the crumbling palaces, usually steady connections.
farmers go on ploughing their land, women John Telecenter & Internet Cafe (Map p133; per hr
continue to wash their clothes in the Queen Birr48) Offers slow Internet and international telephone
of Sheba s Bath, and marketgoers and their calls (per minute Birr25).
donkeys hurry past the towering stelae.
You won t find pyramid-parking coaches MEDICAL SERVICES
or sound-and-light shows here. And inex- St Mary Hospital (Map p133; h24hr) Town s only hos-
tricably interwoven with the archaeological pital, though was hard to find anyone who spoke English.
evidence is the local tradition the legends, St Mary Pharmacy (Map p133;
%0347 752646;
myths and fables.
h7.30am-9.30pm) Helpful and well stocked. H H
H H
H H
A good time to visit is during one of the St Michael Clinic (Map p133; hnoon-2pm & 5-10pm
major religious festivals, particularly the Mon-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat & Sun) Helpful clinic and the doc-
celebration of Maryam Zion in late No- tor speaks decent English.
vember. To do the town justice, you should
schedule a bare minimum of two days, or MONEY
one full day if you have a vehicle. Commercial Bank (Map p133;
h8-11am & 1-3pm
Mon-Fri, 8-11am Sat) Changes cash and travellers cheques.
History Wegagen Bank (Map p133; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat)
According to local legend, Aksum was the Exchanges cash and travellers cheques.
Queen of Sheba s capital in the 10th century
BC. More fantasy than fact that may be, POST
but what s certain is that a high civilisation A small and pretty reliable post office (Map
started to rise as early as 400 BC. p133) is next to the tourism commission.
By the 1st century AD, Greek merchants
knew Aksum as a great city and the power- TELEPHONE
ful capital of an extensive empire. For close Telecommunications office (Map p133;
h7am-
to 1000 years, Aksum dominated the vital 10pm Mon-Sat) International calls. Standard rates (p267).
sea-borne trade between Africa and Asia.
The kingdom numbered among the ancient TOURIST INFORMATION
world s greatest states. For more informa- Tigrai Tourism Commission (Map p133; %0347
tion see Kingdom of Aksum (p27) and the 753924; h8am-noon & 1-5pm) One of the country s
boxed text, above. most friendly and helpful offices. It has a couple of
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
12
700 m
0.4 miles
37
F
To Bus Station (300m);
(86km); Adigrat (126km)
Yeha (55km); Debre Damo
11
Airport (5km); Adwa (23km);
38
13
33
34
30
32
0
0
40
7
3
E
5
1
17
23
36
21
43
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
10
6
8
24
39
35
To Lalibela
41
28
Hotel (200m)
31
Old Palace
9
Compound
D
of Zion Churches
Entrance to St Mary
18
42
4
44
2
15
26
20
16
Northern
Stelae Field
27
14
25
See Northern Stelae
Field Map (p134)
Stadium
C
29
43
21
23
30
B
Zion.......................................
27
D2
TRANSPORT
Ark of the Covenant..................
16
D2
Old Church of St Mary of
19
3
22
37
38
11
12
A
SLEEPING
Abinet Hotel...............................
32
E3
Africa Hotel................................
33
F3
Ark Hotel....................................
34
F3
Kaleb Hotel................................
35
D4
Tsega Cafe & Restaurant...........
41
D3
Lalibela Hotel.............................
36
E4
Yeha Hotel...............................(see 39)
Ras Alula Hotel...........................
F3
Remhai Hotel..............................
F3
DRINKING
Yeha Hotel................................
39
D2
Yeha Hotel................................(see 39)
EATING
Abinet Hotel............................(see 32)
Bicycle Hire................................
42
D3
Africa Hotel.............................(see 33)
Ethiopian Airlines........................
E3
Axumawit Pastery....................(see 32)
Galaxy Express Services............(see 39)
Café Abyssinia............................
40
E4
NTO........................................(see 39)
Remhai Hotel...........................(see 38)
Taxi & Gari Stand.......................
44
D3
INFORMATION
Africa Hotel.............................(see 33)
Axumait Handicraft Center.........
17
E3
Alpha Internet..............................
1
E3
Basket Market............................
18
D3
Artisanal Centre...........................
2
D3
Dungur (Queen of Sheba's
Commercial Bank..........................
E3
Palace)...................................
19
B3
John Telecenter & Internet Cafe..
4
D3
Ethnographical Museum............
20
D3
Post Office.................................(see 9)
Ezana Park..................................
E3
St Mary Hospital...........................
5
E4
Gudit Stelae Field.......................
22
B3
St Mary Pharmacy........................
6
E3
King Bazen's Tomb.....................
E3
St Michael Clinic...........................
7
E4
King Ezana's Inscription..............
24
D1
Telecommunications Office.........
8
D3
Main Market..............................
25
D3
Tigrai Tourism Commission..........
9
D3
New Church of St Mary of
Wegagen Bank..........................
10
D3
Zion.......................................
26
D2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Abba Pentalewon.......................
F1
Ta'akha Maryam (Ruins)............
29
C3
Animal Market...........................
13
F4
Tombs of Kings Kaleb & Gebre
Arbatu Ensessa Church..............
14
D3
Meskel....................................
E1
Archaeological Museum............
15
D2
View Point.................................
31
D2
To Lioness of Gobedra
(2.5km); Ancient
Quarries (2.7km);
Shire (60km);
Debark (260km);
Gonder (361km)
AKSUM
2
Abba Liqanos..............................
F1
Queen of Sheba's Bath..............
28
D2
3
1
4
134 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Aksum www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Aksum 135
official guides who give free Aksum tours on weekdays Field and is thought to date between the St Mary of Zion (admission Birr60, personal video cameras
NORTHERN STELAE FIELD
0 200 m
(tips are appreciated; Birr50 per group is fair). Guides are 4th and 6th centuries AD. More complex Birr100; h8am-noon & 2-6pm).
0 0.1 miles
limited so arrange a time at least a day in advance. On in structure, its stone blocks are also larger The rectangular old church (Map p133 )
weekends the office told us official guides charge Birr50 and more finely dressed than those found is a remarkable example of traditional ar-
per person. in some other tombs. Comprising an ante- chitecture and was built by the Emperor
Stele with
Relief of
chamber and inner chamber, it s surrounded Fasiladas, the founder of Gonder, in 1665.
House
Sights on three sides by a passage. It s thought that the old podium on which it
Queen of
Sheba's Bath
Enda Iyesus
H H H
One admission ticket (adult/student Birr50/ Above the tomb, at ground level, a rec- sits may well belong to Africa s first church,
Church
25) covers all sights within the immediate tangular, probably flat-roofed building which was erected by King Ezana or King
Site of Future
Museum
vicinity of Aksum, except the St Mary of would once have stood (measuring some Kaleb in the 4th or 6th century. Unfortu-
Zion church compound and the monaster- 12 sq metres by 2.8m high). Above the stairs nately, the original church was destroyed
Tomb of the
ies of Abba Pentalewon and Abba Liqanos. descending into the tomb s chamber was a during the incursions of Mohammed Gragn
Brick Arches
The ticket is good for the duration of your stone slab carved with a false door almost the Left-Handed in 1535.
King Ezana's
stay and is sold at the Tigrai Tourism Com- Mausoleum identical to those found on the stelae. Look Inside there are fine murals, including a
Stele
H H H
Unfinished Great
mission. It s thought when the future Ethi- Lookout for the iron clamps fixing blocks of stone painting of the Nine Saints (see The Com-
Stele Stele
opian Cultural Heritage Project museum together like giant staples. ing of Christianity, p28), and a collection of
Main
Tomb of the Tomb of Entrance
opens behind the Northern Stelae Park, All the tomb s contents were stolen in ceremonial musical instruments.
False Door Nefas Mawcha
Entrance to St Mary
tickets will be sold there. All sights are of Zion Churches antiquity and, judging from the lengths to A carefully guarded chapel in the church
Compound
open between 8am and 5pm unless stated which the robbers went to gain access, it s compound is said to contain the Ark of the
otherwise. thought to have contained objects of great Covenant (Map p133). Don t think you can
H H H
If you can get your hands on David Most of the tombs excavated to date had value. The much-mutilated single stone sar- take a peek: just one specially chosen guard-
Phillipson s Aksum: an archaeological in- been pillaged by robbers (remember, no cophagus can still be seen. ian has access to the Ark. And many the
troduction and guide you ll find an excellent shovels!), so very little is known about Ak- unfortunate onlooker has burst into fire
compendium to Aksum s history, archaeol- sumite burial customs or the identities of Tomb of Nefas Mawcha just for getting close!
ogy and major sites and monuments. those buried. The megalithic Tomb of Nefas Mawcha The little museum in the same building
Although you can see the monuments (Map p134) consists of a large rectangular contains an unsurpassed collection of for-
on your own, an official guide is recom- Tomb of the Brick Arches central chamber surrounded on three sides mer Ethiopian rulers crowns. Neither the
mended. All are trained and many are his- Dating from the end of the 3rd century, this by a passage. The tomb is unusual for its chapel nor the museum is open to women,
tory students, so you ll get much more out tomb (Map p134) is remarkably well pre- large size, the sophistication of the struc- but some of the crowns can be brought out
of your visit. Bring a torch for the tombs. served and contains four rock-cut cham- ture and the size of the stones used for its by obliging priests; you should tip them af-
bers, subdivided by a series of brick arches construction (the stone which roofs the cen- terwards. The chapel isn t always open; try
AKSUMITE STELAE built with lime mortar. If it s still closed, tral chamber measures 17.3m by 6.4m and and get here early in the morning. This mu-
Ancient Aksum obelisks (stelae) pepper the you ll still be able to look down its 18 stone weighs some 360 tonnes!). It s believed the seum may move to the Archaeological Mu-
area, and whether you re looking down on steps to its signature horseshoe-shaped force of the Giant Stele crashing into its roof seum s building, when the future museum
a small specimen or staring up at a grand brick arch entranceway. caused the tomb s spectacular collapse. in the Northern Stele Field opens.
tower, you ll be duly bowled over. See the It s just one of two tombs so far exca- The huge new church of St Mary of Zion
boxed text, p136 for the lowdown. vated that have avoided wholesale robbery. Mausoleum (Map p133) was built in the 1960s and dis-
Among the many finds were the remains of The so-called mausoleum (Map p134) plays Haile Selassie s usual unusual taste.
NORTHERN STELAE FIELD TOMBS at least two skeletons, finely carved ivory was discovered in 1974, but not excavated We ve previously awarded it the hideous
Despite the grandeur above the surface, some including two beautiful tusks, pottery, frag- until the mid-1990s. A monumental portal carbuncle prize, but we ll be kinder this
of the Northern Stelae Field s greatest treas- ments of glass vessels, and, in a pit in the (hewn from a single slab of granite) marked time around (perhaps it s growing on us!).
ures are found beneath it. Amazingly, 98% first chamber, a large quantity of bronze, the tomb s entrance and was also carved It does cut a dramatic silhouette on the sky-
of it lies undiscovered and you may find including decorative panels. with the stelae s curious false door motifs. line when viewed from the Yeha Hotel at
yourself hearing the sound of an unopened It was at this site that archaeologists dis- The portal leads into a passageway with 10 sunset. Beside it, a disproportionately tall
tomb echoing below your feet as you explore. covered the cast plaque, the holes of which chambers. Part of the tomb had been dis- bell tower, shaped to resemble the biggest
This is part of Aksum s appeal the thought matched rivets atop one stele (see the boxed figured at some unknown date by robbers, stele of all, sprouts heavenwards.
that fascinating finds, secrets and maybe even text, p136). who succeeded in digging through 1.5m of
treasures lurk in the depths. Try not to return The tomb should be open to the public solid masonry! The mausoleum was almost ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
under the cover of darkness with a shovel! by the time you read this. set for its opening to the public during our
Though it s unlikely that anything as visit enjoy! The Archaeological Museum (Map p133;
h8am-
spectacular as an Ethiopian Tutankhamen Tomb of the False Door noon & 2-6pm) contains fine and well-preserved
will turn up, the importance of the Aksum- In 1972 the unique Tomb of the False Door ST MARY OF ZION CHURCHES Sabaean and early Ge ez inscriptions, some
ite kingdom in the ancient world, and the (Map p134) was discovered (known locally dating back over 2500 years. There s also
potential for discovery of future excava- as the Tomb of King Ramhai). It lies in the Opposite the Northern Stelae Field in a an interesting variety of objects found in
tions, shouldn t be dismissed. western extremity of the Northern Stelae walled compound lie the two churches of tombs, ranging from ordinary household
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
136 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " A Qui ck Gui de to Aksum s Stel ae www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " A Qui ck Gui de to Aksum s Stel ae 137
Despite its pagan background, this stele has been embraced by the Ethiopian Orthodox church
A QUICK GUIDE TO AKSUM S STELAE
and is a centrepiece during the celebrations of Maryam Zion.
For as long as 5000 years, monoliths have been used in northeast Africa as tombstones and
monuments to local rulers. In Aksum, this tradition reached its apogee. Like Egypt s pyramids,
Aksum s stelae were like great billboards announcing to the world the authority, power and
The Great Stele
greatness of the ruling families. Aksum s astonishing stelae are striking for their huge size, their
Lying like a broken soldier, this massive 33m stele (Map p134) is believed to be the largest single
incredible, almost pristine, state of preservation, and their curiously modern look. Sculpted from
block of stone that humans have ever attempted to erect, and overshadows even the Egyptian
single pieces of granite, some look more like Manhattan skyscrapers than 1800-year-old obelisks,
obelisks in its conception and ambition.
complete with little windows, doors and sometimes even door handles and locks!
Scholars theorise that it fell during its erection sometime early in the 4th century. Comparing
Despite the stone being famously hard, Aksum s masons worked it superbly, often following
the unworked root to the sleek, carved base and the intricate walia ibex carvings near its top
an architectural design that mirrored the traditional style seen in Aksumite houses and palaces
gives you a vivid idea of the precision, finesse and technical competence of Aksumite s stone
(for more details on Aksumite architecture see p56 ).
workers.
Metal plates, perhaps in the form of a crescent moon and disc (pagan symbol of the sun), are
As it toppled it collided with the massive 360-tonne stone sheltering the central chamber of
thought to have been riveted to the top of the stelae both at the front and back. The crescent
Nefas Mawcha s tomb (Map p134). This shattered the upper portion of stele and according to
is also an ancient pagan symbol, originating from southern Arabia. In 1996 a broken plate that
Unesco collapsed the tomb s central chamber, scattering the massive roof supports like tooth-
perfectly matched the rusty rivet holes atop a stelae was excavated. It bore the effigy of a face,
picks. Seeing that no other stele was ever raised here, it s obvious the collision sounded the death
perhaps that of the ruler to whom the plate s stele was dedicated. Despite these discoveries
knell on the long tradition of obelisk erection in Aksum. Some scholars have even suggested
many aspects of the stelae are still shrouded in mystery.
that the disaster may have actually contributed to the people s conversion to Christianity, like
For one, Ethiopian traditions believe that the Ark of the Covenant s celestial powers were
an Ethiopian Tower of Babel. More controversially, some propose it may have been sabotaged
harnessed to transport (4km from the quarries) and raise the mighty monoliths; the largest
deliberately to feign a sign of God. Whatever the origin of its downfall, the stele remains exactly
weighed no less than 517 tonnes! While far from proven, archaeologists think that the earthly
where it fell 1600 years ago, a permanent reminder of the defeat of paganism by Christianity.
forces of elephants, rollers and winches were responsible.
The Rome Stele
NORTHERN STELAE FIELD
At 24.6m high, the Rome Stele (or Aksum Obelisk to those in Rome) is the second-largest stele
The Northern Stelae Field is Ethiopia s biggest and most important stelae field. It contains over
ever produced at Aksum and the largest to have ever been successfully raised. Like the Great
120 stelae, though the original number was higher some have been removed, others prob-
Stele, its ornate carvings of multistoried windows and doors adorn all four sides. Pillagers raid-
ably lie buried.
ing the site are believed to have accidentally caused its collapse sometime between the 10th
The stelae range from 1m to 33m in height and from simple slabs of stone (the majority) to
and 16th centuries.
finely dressed rectangular blocks, usually with flat sides and a rounded or conical apex. Though
In 1937 its broken remains were shipped to Italy on Mussolini s personal orders. There it was
they were undoubtedly connected with the practice of human burial, it s not yet certain if every
reassembled and raised once more, this time in Rome s Piazza di Porta Capena. It remained in
stele marks a tomb. The three largest and most famous stelae (Great Stele, King Ezana s Stele
Rome until 2005, when decades of negotiations finally overcame diplomatic feet-dragging.
and Rome Stele) are found here and are described in this box.
After its return to Aksum in April 2005, Unesco planned to raise the stele in its original pos-
In the courtyards of Enda Iyesus (Map p134 ), a stele decorated with a disc and a crescent
ition. However, while doing a geophysical survey of the site they discovered numerous new
moon can be seen. In 1997 another huge stele (18m) was discovered near the church.
tombs surrounding the field, some even under the parking lot. Not wanting to damage these
Among the various other stelae is one that boasts a unique decoration. It lies on the ground
new discoveries with the massive cranes required to raise the stele, Unesco is having a rethink.
around 200m to the north of King Ezana s Stele. Measuring around 9m in length, its upper section
Some are also worried that the original site may also not be stable enough to hold the stele.
is carved like a pointed arch. Near the top, a small houselike object is carved in relief (on one side
All this modern head-scratching regarding the raising of the stele throws into perspective the
of the stone, supported by a pillar; Map p134 ), formed by a rectangle surmounted by a triangle.
massive achievement of the ancient Aksumites almost 2000 years ago.
Some have claimed that this is early proof of Aksum s claim to house the Ark of the Covenant!
So until final decisions are made, the magnificent Rome Stele sits at the side of the road, near
Laying prone between the Mausoleum and Tomb of the False Door is another important stele,
the park s entrance, in four neat pieces.
albeit unassuming and unfinished (Map p134 ). The fact it s unfinished is strong evidence that
the final carving of stelae was finished on site and not at the quarries.
GUDIT STELAE FIELD
Though less immediately arresting than those found in town, the stelae in the Gudit Stelae Field
King Ezana s Stele
(Map p133 ), on the south side of Dungur (Queen of Sheba s Palace), are still worth a visit.
Although standing slightly off kilter, this magnificent 24m-high stele (Map p134 ) at the field s
Named after Queen Gudit (see Aksum s Fall, p132), most stelae in this field are small, undressed
entrance has done something no other stele of similar stature has remained standing! Henry
and lie on the ground. Locals suggest the largest stele marks the Queen of Sheba s grave.
Salt, the British traveller and first foreigner to describe it in 1805, proclaimed it the most admir-
Despite excavations in the 1970s and 1990s, little is known about the field. Though some mark
able and perfect monument of its kind .
graves, neither rock-hewn nor constructed tombs have been found. Finds here did include a set
It s considered by many as the most important of Aksum s stelae because it holds important
of fine 3rd-century glass goblets, which has led scholars to suggest the area was the burial site
religious significance. The stone platform at its base is believed to have served as an altar. Within
of Aksumite society s lesser nobles.
the platform are four foot-deep cavities, which probably held sacrificial offerings. And what s the
The walk to the complex is lovely at dusk, when you ll meet the farmers and their animals
grand significance of all those little cavities? It depends on how important you think gabeta (a
returning home before nightfall.
traditional board game) is! Kids will be kids no matter what century they live in.
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
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138 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Aksum www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Aksum 139
objects such as drinking cups, lamps and using irregular-shaped self-locking stones
THE QUEEN OF SHEBA
incense burners, to quite sophisticated that don t require iron clamps. The 19th-
Ethiopia s most famous legend is that of the Queen of Sheba. According to the Kebra Negast
glassware including perfume bottles. century British traveller Theodore Bent
(Ethiopia s national epic), the Ethiopian queen once undertook a long journey to visit the wise
There s a particularly nice collection of exclaimed magnanimously that the tombs
King Solomon of Israel.
Aksumite coins dating from the 4th to 6th were built with a regularity which if found
While there, Solomon assured the queen that he would take nothing from her so long as she
centuries AD, though those housed in the in Greece would at once make one assign
took nothing from him. However, the crafty king had placed a glass of water at her bedside. During
Ethnological Museum (p84) in Addis Ababa them to a good period !
the night, awaking thirsty after the spicy food served to her, the queen reached for a drink.
are finer. You ll also see beautiful lion gar- Of the two tombs, Gebre Meskel (to the
Solomon wasted little time demanding his side of the deal, and the queen returned to Ethiopia
goyles, and the charming pot shaped like a south) is the most refined. The precision
carrying his child, the future king Menelik.
three-legged bird. Much of the pottery was of the joints between its stones is at a level
Menelik later visited his father in Jerusalem in the Holy Land, but sneakily returned to Ethiopia
produced in ancient Aksum and the tradi- unseen anywhere else in Aksum. The tomb
with the Ark of the Covenant (it seems Solomon got his comeuppance after all). Menelik then
tion continues today. An ancient amphorae consists of one chamber and five rooms,
established a dynasty that would reign for the next 3000 years.
from Turkey or Cyprus also provides evi- with one boasting an exceptionally finely
Though the queen is thought to have lived a thousand years before this period, many Ethi-
dence of ancient trading routes. carved portal leading into it. Inside that
opians believe this legend passionately, at least in parts. Haile Selassie himself, the last Ethiopian
The free guided tours (15 to 20 minutes) room are three sarcophagi, one adorned
emperor, claimed direct descent from King Solomon, and therefore the divine right to rule.
are comprehensive though not wildly in- with a cross similar to Christian crosses
spiring; tips are expected. found on Aksumite coins. While this points
Everything from this museum and oodles towards an age around the 6th century,
more that s in storage will eventually be which, very interestingly, corresponds with churches with a basilica plan lay here, prob- it with the feel of a half-hearted attempt
moving to a grand, modern museum (Map local tradition, many believe that Meskel ably postdating the tombs. at a modern water reservoir, instead of an
p134) that s to be built within the Enda Iye- was actually buried at Debre Damo. impressive ancient relic.
sus Church compound, behind the North- Like Meskel s tomb, King Kaleb s is ac- KING EZANA S INSCRIPTION Today, despite locals claiming that the
ern Stelae Field. We were optimistically told cessed via a long straight stairway. Inside waters are cursed (local boys occasionally
it would be completed in 2007. you ll notice the stones are larger, more an- On the way up to the tombs of Kings Kaleb drown here), you ll see lines of women fetch-
gular and less precisely joined. Of those who and Gebre Meskel, you ll pass a little shack ing water and washing clothes on its steps.
TOMBS OF KINGS KALEB & GEBRE MESKEL attribute the making of the tomb to Kaleb, containing a remarkable find stumbled
few accept that he was ever actually buried upon by a farmer in 1981. Inside is an Ethi- ABBA PENTALEWON & ABBA LIQANOS
Set on a small hill 1.8km northeast of the here. Common theory is that his body lies opian version of the Rosetta stone, a pillar MONASTERIES
Northern Stele Field and offering views of at Abba Pentalewon Monastery, where he inscribed in Sabaean, Ge ez and Greek.
the distant jagged mountains of Adwa are lived after abdicating his throne following It dates between AD 330 and AD 350 Around 2km from the tombs of Kings Kaleb
these two monumental tombs (Map p133). his return from Arabia. The tomb s unfin- and records King Ezana s Christian military and Gebre Meskel, and thought to date from
According to local tradition, they re attrib- ished state adds credence to that theory. If campaigns in Ethiopia and southern Ara- the 6th century, is the Abba Pentalewon Mon-
uted to the 6th-century King Kaleb and his you feel like a long walk, have several extra bia, as well as his quest to return the Ark astery (Map p133; admission Birr20, men only). Inside
son, King Gebre Meskel. Kaleb was one of sets of batteries for your torch and, most to Aksum from Lake Tana. are some fine illuminated manuscripts, metal
Aksum s most important rulers and suc- importantly, have a knack for finding secret The inscription (Map p133 ) apparently crosses, censers and sistra, which can usually
ceeded in bringing southern Arabia under passages, local rumour has it that there s a contains a curse: the person who should be brought out by the priests. The site of
Aksumite rule. secret tunnel leading from here to Arabia! dare to move the tablet will meet an untimely the monastery was sacred to pagans and it s
Although the twin tombs architecture Above ground, a kind of raised court- death . Needless to say, the tablet remains ex- thought the monastery was built here to bol-
resembles the Tomb of the False Door, yard combines the two tombs. Some actly where it was found! You should tip the ster Christianity and eradicate pagan beliefs.
they actually show more sophistication, scholars have suggested that two parallel guardian Birr3 to Birr5 for opening the hut. From Abba Pentalewon, it s around 20
minutes by foot to the Abba Liqanos Monastery
QUEEN OF SHEBA S BATH (Map p133; admission Birr20, men only), which boasts
AKSUMITE COINS
excellent views and contains similar reli-
Despite the colourful legends, this large gious paraphernalia. Ask to see the so-called
Aksumite coinage provides a vital and fascinating source of information on the ancient kingdom.
reservoir (Map p133) postdates the queen crowns of King Kaleb and Gebre Meskel.
The coins bear the names, effigies and sometimes lineage of no fewer than 20 different kings,
by at least a millennia. It was also more Neither church is a must-see, but the walk
and probably served propagandist purposes.
likely an important source of water rather to them is pleasant.
Beautifully struck, the coins depict the royal crowns, clothing and jewellery of the kings even
than a swimming pool or gargantuan bath.
the large earrings worn by some monarchs. A curiosity still unexplained by historians is the fact
Its large size is even more impressive con- KING BAZEN S TOMB
that almost all the coins are double-headed: on one side the king is depicted with his crown,
sidering it was originally hewn out of solid Despite being the crudest of tombs, roughly
on the other, he dons a modest head-cloth.
rock, no small feat in the world of ancient hewn into solid rock instead of constructed
In the mid-1990s a find near the little town of Hastings in southern England caused a mild
engineering. It s also known as Mai Shum, with fine masonry, this place (Map p133)
sensation: an original Aksumite bronze coin was unearthed. In fact, the coin almost certainly
which translates to Water of Chief . has a slightly magical feel about it. Stand in
arrived on English shores not through ancient trade with Britain, but through a modern tourist
Sadly, the outer portion of the bowl was its dark depths and look up it s rock-hewn
with a holey pocket.
coated with concrete in 1960s, bestowing stairs through its arched entranceway and
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
140 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Aksum www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Aksum 141
you ll see why. It s even better if explored The architectural style with small un- ARTISANAL CENTRE Sleeping
by candlelight. dressed stones set in a timber framework Although well behind schedule (it was Aksum suffers from water shortages so
According to local tradition, King Bazen and walls recessed at intervals and taper- slated to open in 2004), this Ethio-cultural please conserve. If you don t, may you end
is thought to have reigned at Christ s birth. ing with height are typically Aksumite. The heritage project (Map p133), funded by the up nicely naked and lathered when the sup-
The style of the tomb is likely consistent stairwells suggest the existence of at least World Bank, should finally be open by the ply runs out!
with that period. one upper storey. The well-preserved flag- time you read this. The traditional-style Rooms become scarce and prices rise
Near the tomb s entrance there s a rec- stone floor is thought to have belonged to Aksumite house and compound will house during major festivals, especially during
tangular pit containing a row of smaller a throne room. The palace also contains a local craftsmen who ll produce, exhibit and Maryam Zion. Reservations are wise.
burial chambers (including a few that ap- private bathing area and a kitchen, where sell arts and crafts produced using ancient
pear to be unfinished). Judging from the two large brick ovens can still be seen. Aksumite techniques. BUDGET
number of tombs and stelae found nearby, Much like Queen of Sheba s Bath, ar- If it s still not open, check out the crafts- Africa Hotel (Map p133; 753700; africaho@
%0347
the burial site may once have been quite chaeologists date the palace to around the men at the Axumait Handicraft Center (Map ethionet.et; d with shared bathroom Birr30, d/tw Birr50/70;
large and important. 6th or 7th century AD, some 1500 years p133), which also houses a large collection
i) With an eager and omnipresent owner,
after the Queen of Sheba. of good-quality, but not cheap (by local this place offers a smooth stay. The rooms
EZANA PARK standards) handicrafts. Ask for the ener- are simple and bright enough, the beds are
Within a rather ugly tin-roofed tukul in this LIONESS OF GOBEDRA getic and well-informed Haile, himself a soft and the bathrooms are very clean. For
central park (Map p133) is another famous It was here that the Archangel Mikael carver for over two decades. an extra Birr10, you can nab one with satel-
4th-century AD stone of King Ezana. This fought a tremendous battle with a fierce lite TV. There s also a café and restaurant
inscription is also written in Sabaean, Ge ez lioness. The fight ended when the saint OTHER SIGHTS out front. Call for a free airport transfer.
and Greek and records the honorary titles mustered all his strength and hurled the Aksum has two sleepy markets that burst The doubles with shared facilities are its
and military victories of the king over his lion into a massive boulder. The impact had to life on Saturday. In the centre of town weak point.
enemies and rebels . One section of script such force that the outline of the beast is is the traditional main market (Map p133), Kaleb Hotel (Map p133; 752222; s with
%0347
thanks the God of War, thus placing the still visible today. If it sounds like a story with spices and the like, while to the east shared bathroom Birr30, d/tw Birr50/70) With quiet
stone s age before Ezana s conversion to that legends are made of, you re right. It s is the animal market (Map p133), ripe with rooms set around a garden courtyard,
Christianity. only a legend! camels, donkeys and fodder. A basket market Kaleb is probably the nicest budget setting.
It was moved to its present location from Who s responsible for the work or when (Map p133; hSat) takes place near the massive The rooms are large and quite pleasant,
eastern Aksum by the Italians in the 1930s it was created is still anyone s guess. tree shading the taxi and gari stand. while the pretty clean bathrooms are show-
because, of all things, it stood in the way of It s often overlooked by visitors, but An elderly woman runs the so-called ing their age. There s a bar with DSTV, but
their plan to widen the road. is worth the visit, especially since it s so Ethnographical Museum (Map p133; admission Birr10; no restaurant.
close to the ancient quarries of Aksum. It s from her home. The Abinet Hotel (Map p133; 753857; d with
h8am-noon & 2-6pm) %0357
TA AKHA MARYAM around 3km west of Aksum off the Shire museum showcases eclectic arts and crafts shared bathroom Birr30, d/tw Birr50/100) Most rooms
Early excavations revealed that Ta akha Mar- road. It s quite a rough walk from the road (from her wedding dress to fine basketry here see a fair amount of sun and boast nice
yam (Map p133) was a magnificent palace, over boulders and through scrub, and you ll and other household objects). It gives a tan- wee balconies too. Some of the Birr50 op-
probably dating from the 4th or 5th century need a guide or one of the all too willing gible glimpse into life in the old days . The tions are quite small, so check out a few.
AD. Unfortunately, much of the stone was local children to help you find it. museum sits next to Arbatu Ensessa Church Ras Alula Hotel (Map p133; 753622;
%0347
removed and what remained was obliter- (Map p133), a good example of traditional d Birr50) Rooms here are on par with those at
ated when the Italians cut a road straight ANCIENT QUARRIES architecture. Africa Hotel, but the bathrooms are a bit
through it. Near the lioness, at a site on Gobedra Hill cramped and it lacks any extra amenities
Today, little more than a few piles of rub- known as Wuchate Golo, are the ancient Festivals & Events like TVs, restaurant or Internet facilities.
ble and a couple of dressed stone blocks quarries of Aksum, the birthplace of the On 30 November Aksum hosts one of Ethi- Ark Hotel (Map p133; %0347 752676; d/tw Birr70/
remain, strewn on either side of the road. famous stelae. Mystery still surrounds the opia s largest festivals, the Festival of Maryam 120; This newish place has good-sized
i)
Covering a vast area of some 120m by tools that were used by the master crafts- Zion. In the days leading up to the event, rooms that are bright and clean; most also
80m and encircled by huge stone walls, men of Aksum, but you can see clearly, thousands of pilgrims arrive and sleepy offer balconies (though they aren t as private
Ta akha Maryam would have been far larger in one area, the process by which they cut Aksum truly awakes. Celebrations start at as those at Abinet). Its biggest downfalls are
than medieval European palaces of the the hard stone from the rock. After the King Ezana s Stele, where the monarchs its lack of service and the noise emanating
time, and contained at least 50 rooms. intended break was mapped out, a row of the Orthodox church line the steps and from chairs screeching across its floors.
of rectangular sockets were cut. Wooden watch performers in the street below. Lalibela Hotel (%0347 753541; d with shared bath-
DUNGUR (QUEEN OF SHEBA S PALACE) wedges were next inserted into the sock- For an unforgettable experience make room Birr20) Rooms here are large, tidy and
ets and made to expand either by the use your way to the compound of the St Mary anything but dark. The foam beds are pretty
The structure at Dungur, popularly known of water, by percussion or by hammering of Zion Church between 1am and sunrise comfortable and the shared bathrooms are
as the Queen of Sheba s Palace (Map p133), in metal wedges, which caused the rock to on the day of the festival and witness a sea nothing to scream at.
is similar to Ta akha Maryam, but much fracture. In another place, you ll see a stele of white-robed pilgrims curled up asleep.
better preserved (though smaller), and almost completely freed from the rock, but Standing among the slowly shifting sea are MIDRANGE
fully excavated (in places rather clumsily strangely abandoned. a few scattered priests who are reading by Yeha Hotel (Map p133; 752378; ghion@ethio
%0347
restored). Fascinating? Definitely. candlelight. net.et; s/d/ste US$38/50/75) Perched atop a bluff
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
142 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Aksum www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Adwa 143
overlooking the stelae and the Mary of Zion The bread and local honey is a perfect way
THE BATTLE OF ADWA
churches, this hotel has the most enviable to start the day.
In September 1895, as the rains began to dwindle, Emperor Menelik II issued a decree: all the
location. The rooms are identical to its state- Axumawit Pastery (Map p133; cakes Birr2) Below
able-bodied men of his empire should gather for a march north, a march for all of Ethiopia.
owned brothers (Bahir Dar s Tana Hotel, Abinet Hotel, it s a good spot for a piece of
Behind the vast army trundled 40 cannons, hundreds of mules and 100,000 rifles. In the north,
Gonder s Goha Hotel and Lalibela s Roha pastry (or would that be a piece of pastery?)
the Italians were ready.
Hotel), which means they re comfortable, and sip of coffee.
Initial skirmishes followed and amazingly the Ethiopians and their sturdy mules captured the
cosy and contain satellite TVs. Rooms 127
Italian strongholds at Amba Alage and Enda Iyesus. Serious shortages of food soon followed,
to 133 and 226 and suites 228, 230 and 232 Drinking
leading both sides to sue for peace, but Italy s continued insistence on their protectorate claim
are our picks as they offer sunset views. Yeha Hotel (Map p133; beers Birr8) The lofty terrace
meant an agreement couldn t be reached.
Remhai Hotel (Map p133; %0347 751501; www.rem of this hotel is the perfect place for a cool
In February 1896 Crispi, Italy s prime minister, sent his famous telegram to General Baratieri.
hai-hotel.com; s Birr128-305, d Birr170-395, ste Birr475; beverage, especially during a scenic sunset
In it he declared the motherland was ready for any sacrifice to save the honour of the army and
when kites (a type of raptor) ride the fading
is) The expensive rooms here are huge
the prestige of the monarchy .
and host king-sized beds, carpets, fridges, thermals and soar low overhead.
In the early morning hours four days later, the Italians made their move. Stumbling in the
phone as well as the odd Juliet balcony. The Or for something entirely different, seek
darkness over difficult terrain, with inaccurate maps and with no communication between the
cheaper options are rather dark, but are very out a tella beat (local beer house) in the tiny
three offensive brigades, the surprise attack was a disaster. Menelik, whose spies had long before
clean and also have satellite TVs. If it weren t streets around town; they re great places
informed him of the forthcoming attack, met the Italians with thundering artillery and fierce
for the pool, terrace and upcoming sauna for Tigrayan dancing. The locals will help
fighting on every front.
and gym, this out-of-the-way place would be you find one.
Nearly half the Italian fighting force was wiped out over 6000 soldiers and of the five Ital-
seriously overpriced. Nonguests can patrol
ian field commanders, three were killed, one was wounded, and another was captured. Finally,
the pool for Birr15. Getting There & Away
laying down their arms, the Italians ran. Though the Ethiopians had lost almost equal numbers,
Ethiopian Airlines (Map p133; %0347 752300) flies
the day was clearly theirs.
Eating to Addis Ababa (US$131, two to 3½ hours,
To this day the battle of Adwa is justly celebrated annually and, like the Battle of Hastings in Brit-
Restaurants tend to wrap things up early in daily) via Lalibela (US$72, 40 minutes),
ain or the War of Independence in America, it s the one date every Ethiopian child can quote.
Aksum, with most places being closed or Gonder (US$73, two hours) and Bahir Dar
out of food by 8pm. (US$86, 2½ hours) or via Mekele (US$40,
Remhai Hotel (Map p133; mains Birr13-28) This one hour, Monday and Thursday).
hotel s Western restaurant, with pepper For buses to Gonder and Debark (Simien south from there, bicycles (Birr6 per hour) the final 3km. It s possible to drive or hike;
steak (our favourite), roasted chicken and Mountains), go to Shire first. There are sev- can be hired. bring plenty of water.
even French toast, is unquestionably top dog eral buses and minibuses before 4pm (Birr10, The scenery around Adwa is captivating,
when it comes to faranji fare. Tony Wheeler 1½ hours). There are also many services to ADWA particularly en route to Adigrat where the
adds, their traditional restaurant had the Adwa (Birr5, 45 minutes), but only one daily pop 45,823 / elev 1907m horizon bursts with both bulbous and jag-
best local food we had in Ethiopia. bus to Adigrat (Birr20 to Birr25, five hours) Like Aksum, unassuming, urban Adwa ged peaks, and endless terraced slopes climb
Abinet Hotel (Map p133 ; mains Birr12-17) If you and Mekele (Birr35, 8½ hours). belies its status. For Ethiopians, the town from the road to dramatic escarpments.
ask locals where the best place to eat is, Numerous freelance agents rent 4WD holds huge significance. It was in dramatic Teferi Hotel (%0347 711828; d with shared bathroom
they ll say Remhai. But if you ask them vehicles (with driver and guide) for trips to mountains surrounding Adwa that the Em- Birr30, d with cold/hot shower Birr40/50), next to the
where they like to eat, they ll say Abinet. Yeha (Birr400), Debre Damo (Birr600) and peror Menelik II inflicted the biggest defeat bus station, is the best snoozing option in
The spaghetti and the array of Ethiopian even the rock churches of Tigray (per day ever on a colonial army in Africa and Ethi- Adwa. The shared bathroom rooms are actu-
dishes are quite good. Birr750). These figures required lengthy opia was saved from colonisation (see the ally the brightest, but they re all quite clean.
Yeha Hotel (Map p133; mains Birr17-25) The food negotiations. The tourism office can help boxed text, above). Numerous minibuses connect Adwa to
is fair, the view is grand. The menu is a mix arrange vehicles, or talk to NTO and Galaxy Though Adwa is a pleasant enough Aksum (Birr5, 45 minutes). For Adigrat
of faranji and Ethiopian selections. Express services at the Yeha Hotel. town, there s not much to see here besides (Birr15, 3½ hours) three buses run daily.
Tsega Cafe & Restaurant (Map p133 ; mains Birr3- a couple of churches (the Selassie Church For Yeha, catch a bus to Enticcio (four
10) This is another favourite of locals (they Getting Around contains some good murals), but you may run daily), and hop off at the Yeha sign-
rave about the tibs sliced lamb, pan fried A taxi to the new airport, 7km from town, want to use the town as a base from which post (Birr6, 30 to 40 minutes) on the main
in butter, garlic, onion and sometimes to- costs Birr40, or Birr10 shared . From the to visit Yeha or Debre Damo. Adwa Adigrat road. Unless you hop a lift
mato). Omelettes and scrambled eggs are airport, rates are set at Birr10 per person. About 6km due east of Adwa is the with a tourist vehicle, it s a very hot and
on offer as well. Contract taxis charge foreigners from monastery of Abba Garima (admission Birr20; men dusty 5km walk from there. Go early to
Café Abyssinia (Map p133; mains Birr8-12) Right Birr5 to Birr10 for short hops; longer jour- only). Said to have been founded by one ensure return transport. Contract taxis
in front of the hospital, this place serves neys cost Birr8 to Birr15. Share-taxis cost of the Nine Saints in the 6th century, it s cost around Birr200 to Birr300 to Yeha and
as café, bar and restaurant. The Ethiopian Birr0.75 to Birr1 to cross town. known for its collection of religious arte- Birr400 to Birr500 to Debre Damo.
and faranji fare is quite good, but you ll pay Garis cost Birr2 to Birr5 for short jour- facts including what may be Ethiopia s old-
double what locals do. neys or Birr15 for Dungur and Birr20 for est manuscript. Perhaps dating to the 8th YEHA
Africa Hotel (Map p133; mains Birr5-10) If they the Lioness of Gobedra. You ll need to ne- century, it s kept under lock and key and Yeha, 58km north of Adwa, is considered the
didn t always run out of food early evening, gotiate hard. Garis and taxis linger near the only the lucky are given a glimpse. Head birthplace of Ethiopia s earliest civilisation
this place would be more recommended. giant tree at the basket market grounds. Just 7km south of Adwa before turning east for nearly three millennia ago. Heated debate
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
144 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Debre Damo www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Adi grat 145
continues among scholars as to whether it artefacts to a nearby building and creating the extraordinary artistic heritage Ethiopia If border tensions ease, Adigrat makes a
was founded by Sabaean settlers from Ara- a small museum. might have had, had it not been for the dev- useful and pleasant enough stop-off point
bia or by Ethiopians influenced by Sabaean astation of the Muslim Christian wars. to or from Aksum. It s also a good base
ideas. We can t figure out who s scream- Getting There & Away from which to explore some of the northern
ing louder, so we ll hold off choosing sides, See Adwa (p143 ) and Aksum s Getting Sights rock-hewn churches of Tigray.
though the so-called temple s immense, There & Away section (p142) for transport The remarkable Abuna Aregawi church is an At sunrise, the stratified mountains above
windowless, sandstone walls do indeed look information. almost prototypical example of Aksumite town resemble Table Mountain in Cape
like something straight out of Yemen. architecture. One window, with its wooden Town.
Yeha s ruins (admission Birr50, personal video cameras DEBRE DAMO tracery, is virtually a replica of that depicted
Birr100) are impressive for their sheer age, dat- Perched precariously atop a sheer-sided in stone on the largest of the Aksumite stelae. Information
ing between the 5th and 8th century BC, and amba (flat-topped mountain), 86km north- Look out for the famous Aksumite frieze: a Commercial Bank (h8.30am-12.30pm & 1-3.30pm
for their stunning construction. Some of the east of Aksum, is one of Ethiopia s most row of false window openings constructed of Mon-Fri, 8.30-11.30am Sat) Changes cash and travellers
temple s sandstone building blocks measure important religious sites. Debre Damo (admis- wood. Also notable are the beams and ceil- cheques.
over 3m in length and are so perfectly dressed sion Birr50, men only) is thought to date back to ing, famously decorated with carved wooden Post office (h8.30am-noon & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri,
and fitted together without a trace of mor- Aksumite times and the 6th-century reign of panels depicting Ethiopian wild animals such 8.30am-noon Sat)
tar that it s impossible to insert so much as King Gebre Meskel. It boasts what s likely the as elephants, lions, gazelles, rhinos, giraffes Telecommunications office (h8am-noon & 2-9pm)
a 5ó coin between them. The whole temple is oldest standing church in the country (10th and snakes. Various recent paintings can be International calls. Standard rates (p267).
a grid of perfect lines and geometry. or 11th century AD), which is also a great seen too. Ytbarek Internet (per hr Birr60; h7am-6pm)
Almost 200m to the northeast are the example of an Aksumite-style building. The monastery has long been used as Adigrat s only Internet access.
remains of Grat Beal Gebri, a monumental According to local tradition, the monas- a safeguard for religious treasures. It now
structure distinguished for its unusual, tery was founded by Abuna Aregawi, one has an outstanding collection of at least 50 Sights
square-sectioned, monolithic pillars (such of the legendary Nine Saints, with a little illuminated manuscripts, among them some Nothing is screaming to be seen here, but if
features are also found in the Temple of help from a heavenly snake (see the boxed of Ethiopia s oldest surviving fragments, you re filling in time, a couple of Orthodox
the Moon in Ma rib in Yemen). Important text, p49). though they re rarely brought out to visi- churches are worth a peek: the 19th-century
rock-hewn tombs have also been found in The monastery s formidable cliffs also tors (don t insist). Adigrat Chirkos south of the town centre, and
the vicinity. Amazingly, these finds and the allowed Aksumite s monarchs to coop up If you ve never seen Eritrea before, the the 20th-century fortresslike Medhane Alem
temple are all that remains of Ethiopia s excess male members of the royal family view from the monastery magnificently lays in the north. Early mornings are best when
first capital. here, thus removing possible threats to their it out before you. the grounds are full of devotees.
Next to the temple is the new Church of reign. The large tiled dome on the skyline be-
Abuna Aftse (admission incl with ruins), which was Today, the 500-sq-metre monastery Getting There & Away longs to the Holy Saviour Catholic cathedral.
built over the 6th-century original. Incor- hosts some 80 monks, who are entirely self- There s no public transport to Debre Damo, Completed in 1916, it s Italian-designed,
porated into its walls are stones removed sufficient. They even have their own live- although any transport on the Aksum but with a distinctly Ethiopian flavour. Look
from the temple. In the west wall, there s stock (if you could bring up a cow they d be Adigrat road can drop you at the well- out for the paintings by Afewerk Tekle.
an exceptional relief of ibexes, stylised and grateful), and water reservoirs hewn deep signposted junction (5km southeast of the There s a peaceful Italian war cemetery just
with lowered horns. The ibex was a sacred into the rock. Gifts of coffee, sugar or honey village of Bizet). From there it s a toasty over 4km east of town. Dante Giuseppe, Ber-
animal of southern Arabia. are also greatly appreciated. 11km walk (around three hours); bring tagna Italo and Vaudano Mario are just three
Inside there s also an outstanding collec- While the monastery sits firmly en- water, food and sunscreen. of the 765 Italian soldiers commemorated
tion of beautifully incised ancient Sabaean trenched on the amba, we said precariously Catching rides to Adwa, Adigrat or here. Six hundred and fifty-nine plaques are
inscriptions, believed to originate from the earlier because of the journey required to Aksum from the junction is hit and miss, dedicated to caduto ignoto (unknown fallen)
temple, as well as some good (and unu- get here (see the boxed text, below). especially in late afternoon. If there s a who perished between 1935 and 1938. En
sually large) manuscripts and silver and For male travellers, a visit to Debre Damo group of you, it s easiest to hire a 4WD in route here you ll pass the crumbling walls
gold crosses. There is talk of moving some is well worthwhile, and gives you an idea of Aksum (p142) or Adigrat (p146). Contract of the old Italian fort zigzagging along a small
minibuses are cheaper, but can only get you sandstone bluff. It s now an Ethiopian army
within 4km or 5km of Debre Damo. barracks, so don t go poking around!
ROPE TRICKS
The labyrinth of tin shacks that s now
Your only option to reach Debre Damo, completely encircled with sheer cliffs, is to white-knuckle ADIGRAT the market is found 500m east of Medhane
and red-toe it straight up over 15m! White knuckles thanks to squeezing the aging rope for dear pop 88,342 / elev 2473m Alem church. In season, you ll find locally
life, and red toes from trying to madly insert your shortest digits into tiny toe holds for traction Adigrat is Tigray s second-largest town and produced pale honey, and beles (prickly
(see the boxed text, p147). is situated on what was Ethiopia s most pears), which cost just Birr1 for 10; they re
For safety, a Birr20 tip and a laugh oh, and to help too priests tie a leather strap around important junction with Eritrea prior to deliciously refreshing.
your waste and tug, tug, tug from the top. the 1998 conflict. Today the border is still Travelling south from Adigrat, look out
The ascent isn t difficult, but requires some nerve and a bit of biceps. Women aren t allowed closed and with tensions remaining high for the attractive Tigrayan stone farmsteads
to visit the monastery, but the priests may let you have a dangle on the rope if you really want after the escalation of rhetoric and troop with their dry-stone walls. The houses have
to. Shouts of becka, becka! (enough!) will soon make it clear you ve come far enough! movements in late 2005, expect to see a few windows; those they do have are small
large UN military presence. to keep the interior cool.
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
146 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Adi grat www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Negash 147
0 200 m
The owner of Welwalo Café (%0344 450218) History
ADIGRAT
0 0.1 miles
rents his Land Cruiser (including himself as Until the mid-1960s, the churches were al-
To Medhane Alem
AC D
AC D
B
B
Church (500m); Market driver) for trips to Debre Damo (Birr400) most unknown outside Tigray itself. Even
(700m); Eritrea (35km)
INFORMATION
and the rock-hewn churches of Tigray (per today very little is known about their ori-
Commercial Bank.....................1 C2
day Birr600). gins, their history or their architects. Their
Post Office...............................2 B2
11
Telecommunications Office.....3 C2 6
1
1 remote and precarious positions have led
Ytbarek Internet.......................4 B2
Stadium NEGASH scholars to think they were being hidden
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
On a small hill, 56km south of Adigrat, is from raiding Muslims.
Adigrat Chirkos........................5 C3
10
7 To Old Italian the tiny town of Negash, which, like Aksum While local tradition attributes most of
Holy Saviour Catholic
Fort (1.2km);
Cathedral.............................6 D1
Italian War and Adwa, belies its prestigious past. the churches to the 4th-century Aksum-
Cemetery (4.2km)
12
Negash was the first site of Muslim set- ite kings, Abreha and Atsbeha, as well as
4
9
3
SLEEPING tlement in Ethiopia. Fleeing persecution to 6th-century rulers, most historians date
2
Hohoma Hotel.......................... B1
7
in Saudi Arabia in Mohammed s own life- them between the 9th and 15th centuries.
Shewit Hotel............................8 B2
Yohannis Kidus Pension...........9 C2
time, a community of Muslims, including
H H
H
2
2
Mohammed s daughter, took refuge here. Orientation & Information
EATING
To Debre Damo
1
Geza Gerlase.......................... B1
10
In 2003 Ethiopia s richest man, billionaire Most churches are located in groups or
(48km); Yeha (78km);
Adwa (103km); Aksum Weldu Sebagadis Modern
Sheikh Mohammed Hussein Al-Amoudi clusters. Gheralta cluster, with the highest
(126km)
Hotel.................................. B1
11
Welwalo Café...................... 12 B2
(the Addis Ababa Sheraton is one of his number of churches, is considered the most
13
8
belongings) built a new mosque here. It important, while the Takatisfi, only 3km
TRANSPORT
Bus Station.............................13 A2
overshadows a small mosque that stands east of the Mekele Adigrat road, is the most
on the site of the 7th-century original. An accessible. Other famous clusters are the
ancient cemetery, also believed to date from Tembien and Atsbi.
To Rock-hewn Churches of Tigray;
the 7th century, was recently excavated. Churches are supposed to charge Birr20
Edaga Hamus (20km); Sinkata
3
3
(38km); Negash (58km); Wukro
To many Ethiopian Muslims Negash for admission. If you re asked for more,
(68km); Mekele (114km)
is the most holy Islamic site after Mecca, simply hand over Birr20, firmly but po-
and thousands make a pilgrimage here litely. However, many priests (who receive
5
each year. Despite this, just 3% of Tigray no salary) drop work in the fields to open
is Muslim; the mosque sits amid a sea of churches for you, so you should offer a tip
Christian churches. of Birr5 to Birr10 after your visit.
Sleeping & Eating cultural restaurant. Wrap your lips around Minibuses and buses that ply the route Good walking shoes are essential. Bring a
Hohoma Hotel (%0344 452469; d/ste Birr50/60) Its the special tibs, delve into the local special- between Adigrat and Mekele stop here. torch, lots of small notes (priests never have
name, inspired by Santa s brother who gave ity ta ilo (a dough made from sorghum and change) and water.
up the life of giving gifts for the cello, is dipped in spicy meat and tomato sauce) or ROCK-HEWN CHURCHES OF TIGRAY Mekele makes the best base from which
just as fantastic as this hotel s value easily enjoy simple spag bol under the traditional Although no less significant or interesting to explore the churches, but Aksum and
Ethiopia s best deal. The modern rooms are thatched roof. than their famous cousins in Lalibela, the Adigrat are also viable options. The helpful
small, but are well furnished, bright, spot- Welwalo Café (mains Birr3-10) Grab a snack, rock-hewn churches of Tigray are far less staff at the Tigray Tourism Commission
less, comfortable and even boast TVs with juice or a tomato, onion and pepper om- famous. Lucky you. offices in Aksum (p132), Mekele (p151) and
the BBC. When we asked the price and they elette to start the day at this pleasant café. Some of the 120-odd churches may even now Wukro (%0344 430340; h8am-5pm) advise
said hamsa (50), we had to ask if they meant predate those at Lalibela, and possibly rep-
dollars! Getting There & Away resent a crucial link between Aksum and
TOEHOLDS IN TIGRAY
Shewit Hotel (%0344 453028; d with shared bath- Sealed road now connects Adigrat to Me- Lalibela chronologically, artistically and
room Birr30, d Birr50) This old place is still in kele, with buses (Birr14, three hours, six technically. The architectural features, though
Though daunting at first sight, most of the
good shape, with its old but pristine cheq- daily) and minibuses (Birr20, 2½ hours, less perfect than at Lalibela, where the rock-
ascents up rock faces required to reach
uered tile floors looking rather retro. The four daily) covering the route. Buses also hewing tradition reached its zenith, are just
some of the Tigrayan churches aren t dif-
rooms are tidy, the beds are comfy and the serve Adwa (Birr15, 3½ hours, three daily), as remarkable and intriguing. And the stun-
ficult if taken carefully. Just focus on the
bathrooms are clean. All but the shared Aksum (Birr20 to Birr25, five hours, two ning (and sometimes scary) cliff-face loca-
footholds, get a good grip, don t stop and
showers are hot. daily) and Shire (Birr30, 6½ hours, one tions of some make exploring Lalibela seem
never look down. If you re having trouble,
Yohannis Kidus Pension (%0344 450284; s with daily). For Wukro (Birr10, 1¾ hours) like a snoozy Sunday stroll in the park.
or finding that your nerves are getting the
shared bathroom Birr15) While it s no Hohoma and Negash (Birr8, 1½ hours), take the For those who want to combine trekking
better of you, get someone to climb in front
(we ll never get tired of saying Hohoma Mekele bus. with terrific art and history, this may be just
showing you the footholds. Sometimes the
sorry), this small place with a paltry price Minibuses run to Sinkata (Birr5, one the ticket. The Tigrayan churches may well
holds are very small, hewn by the bare feet
is well looked after and is a friendly, clean hour), Edaga Hamus (Birr3, 30 minutes) prove to be Orthodox Ethiopia s best-kept
of generations of priests. In which case, do
choice. It s only fault: teeny rooms. and Wukro (Birr10, 1½ hours). secret. Bird-watchers will also love the area
as they do and take off your shoes. It s amaz-
Geza Gerlase (mains Birr8-20) If you re only If the Eritrea border reopens, it s about a as it s home to the semi-endemic Rupell s
ing the grip a toe can get!
in Adigrat one night, head straight to this seven hour journey to Asmara. black chat and white-winged cliff chat.
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
148 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Rock-Hewn Churches of Ti gray www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Rock-Hewn Churches of Ti gray 149
on itineraries, sell maps and the informa- the churches remote locations haven t Abraha Atsbeha Maryam Korkor is the church of Daniel Kor-
tive Tigrai: The Open-Air Museum booklet made restoration work feasible yet and sev- Architecturally, this semimonolithic 10th- kor. It sits atop a paralysing precipice and
(Birr5), and can usually wrangle up an of- eral are in desperate need of repair. century church is one of Tigray s finest. offers astounding views.
ficial guide (per day Bir100). You d be fool- Unlike many of the churches of Lalibela, It s large and cruciform in shape, with
hardy to attempt visits without a guide, not which were monolithic (carved out of the interesting architectural features such as Dugem Selassie
only to locate the more remote churches, ground and only left attached to the earth cruciform pillars and step capitals. There s This tiny, older church lies within a newer
but also to act as an interpreter and for at the base), the Tigrayan churches are also well-preserved 17th- and 18th-century one. Its large, double-tomb chamber has
tracking down the often elusive priests, generally semimonolithic (only partially murals. The obtrusive portico was an at- three shelves ; look out for the beautifully
keepers of the all-important church keys. separated from the host rock) or built into tempt by Italians to win over locals by carved ceiling above the maqdas. It was
If you re really keen, search for Ivy Pearce, pre-existing caves. proving they weren t Muslims. It s easily probably converted to a church later. It s on
David R Buxton or Ruth Plant s research on Patience is essential for your enjoyment, accessible and sits just off the road, 45km the southern edge of the village of Dugem,
Tigray before leaving home. as it can often take up to an hour to locate west of Wukro. just off the road.
some priests. With a full day, a 4WD and
Sights quick-keyed priests, you can usually see four Abuna Yemata Guh Yohannes Maequdi
Between Adigrat and Mekele there s a pleth- to five churches (depending on the hikes Although less impressive architecturally, This rectangular chapel has six freestanding
ora of churches, 120 at last count. Many are involved). this church is likely the most rewarding pillars that support a ceiling carved with ge-
pretty inaccessible, meaning visiting some in Tigray. It s spectacularly located within ometrical designs. While it s best known for
churches involves steep climbs or scram- GHERALTA CLUSTER a cliff face, halfway up a rock pinnacle well-preserved murals covering the walls,
bling up almost sheer rock faces using toe- The drive through the Gheralta cluster is around 4km west of Megab. The first 45 it s the intense atmosphere that most visi-
holds (see p147). fantastic, particularly between Dugem and minutes of the climb is mildly challenging, tors remember. From the village of Matari
All this somehow adds to the churches Megab, with stratified mountains and sharp with a couple of tricky sheer sections re- it s around a 40-minute walk (about 1km
attraction. To come across an absolute jewel peaks rising from the plains. Avoid visiting quiring toe-hold action. The last two min- south of Dugem) via a steep footpath.
hidden for centuries in the mountains, after this cluster on Wednesday as the priests utes require nerves of steel our hands are
a long and arduous toil through Tigray s are usually at market. Minor churches of sweating just thinking about it! Even if you Abuna Gebre Mikael
arid and rocky landscape, makes for a very note in this cluster include Giyorgis Debre can t make the final scramble and precari- Considered one of Gheralta s finest churches,
rewarding excursion. Just remember that Mahar and Tekla Haimanot. ous ledge walk over a 200m drop (like us this church s cruciform plan is hewn into a
last go around!), it s still worth getting that domelike rock. It features good frescoes and
0 40 km far as the views from the baptism chamber carefully carved columns, pillars, cupolas
ROCK-HEWN CHURCHES OF TIGRAY
0 20 miles
are astounding. and arches. It s around 15km south of Abuna
ERITREA
Approximate Scale Only
AC D
B
Inside are beautiful and well-preserved Yemata Guh and requires a steep climb, ne-
Eritrea Border Crossing ERITREA
frescoes that adorn two cupolas. gotiating a few obstacles on way.
The international boundaries on
(currently closed)
this map serve as indications only.
To Asmara
The Ethiopia Eritrea border awaits
(Eritrea) (154km) SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
formal UN demarcation.
Debre
Debre Tsion Abraham TAKATISFI CLUSTER
1 Abba Yohanni..............................1 A3
Damo
Abraha Atsbeha...........................2 B2
Medhane Alem Kesho
Yeha
Abuna Gebre Mikael....................3 A3
Rectangular in shape, with six massive free- Also known as Adi Kesho, this church
Abuna Yemata Guh......................4 B2
Cherkos (Agobo).........................5 C2
standing pillars, this church is known for is one of Tigray s oldest and finest rock-
Adigrat
Chirkos.........................................6 B3
its diverse architectural features, including hewn churches. Its exterior and interior
Debre Selam................................7 C2
To Adwa (22km);
Aksum (46km) Edaga Debre Tsion Abraham...................8 B3
decorated cupolas, bas-reliefs and carved walls are roughly hewn, which only makes
Hamus
Dugem Selassie............................9 B2
Edaga Arbi
crosses on the walls and ceiling. It also has the elaborately carved coffered ceiling that
Gebriel Wukien..........................10 A3
Giyorgis Debre Mahar................11 B2
beautiful, though faded and damaged, 16th- much more special. Ask if you can watch
Takatisfi Maryam Korkor & Daniel
Nebelet Cluster century murals and an unusual, large 15th- them unlock the door from the inside
Korkor.................................... B2
12
Sinkata
17
Medhane Alem Kesho................13 B2
2 century ceremonial fan. It sits like a fortress rather ingenious indeed! From the end of
16
Mikael Barka..............................14 C3
Mikael Imba...............................15 C3 on a hill about 500m south of Dugem and the 4WD track, it s a leisurely 10-minute
18 Hawsien
13
Mikael Milhaizengi.....................16 B2
Megab Teka Tesfay
requires a steep 50-minute walk. climb.
Gheralta
Petros & Paulos..........................17 B2
Cluster
Tembien Negash 20
12
5 Tekla Haimanot..........................18 B2
7
Cluster
Dugem
4 9 Yohannes Maequdi....................19 B3
Matari
Maryam Korkor Mikael Milhaizengi
11 2 Wukro
Zarema Giyorgis.........................20 C2
Cluster Atsbi
3
10 Workamba Atsbi
Abraha Although an unsightly green from the out- This tiny church, with its stooped doorway,
8
6
19 Cluster
Atsbeha
14 Inda Selassie
side, this impressive, cross-shaped church is is hewn into the top of a small bleached
Wukro
1
Abi Addi
known for its architectural features (cruci- hill and is thought to date from the 8th
15
Berahile
form pillars, arches and cupolas), fine 17th- century. It s known for its 3m-high carved
Hagere
Agula
Selan
3 century frescoes, and church treasures. It s dome ceiling that resembles an himbasha
Abi Agbe
also one of the largest churches in the area. (a favourite round bread of Tigrayans).
Mai Makdem
To the South; Woldia Hamd Ela (15km); The church is around 500m from Megab It s about 45 minutes walk from Medhane
(231km); Dessie Dallol (40km);
Scenic Route
(351km); Kombolcha Irta'ale (70km); Lake and involves a fairly steep 50-minute as- Alem Kesho and a 15-minute walk from
To Lalibela
(376km); Addis Ababa Afera (100km)
(150km)
Mekele
(754km) cent. Just a couple of minutes walk from Petros & Paulos.
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
150 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Rock-Hewn Churches of Ti gray www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Mekel e 151
finely hewn freestanding pillars and three Getting There & Around Helpful and can advise you on an itinerary for Tigray s
HEAVENLY VISIONS
cupolas. It s 16km northwest of Abi Addi Many of the churches are in remote places, rock-hewn churches.
One day, St Gabriel appeared in a dream to and involves a 15-minute easy walk, then a some 20km to 30km off the main road. A Wegagen Bank (h8am-4pm Mon-Sat) Slightly higher
a farmer. The saint commanded the man to 10-minute climb up a mountain. private 4WD is the easiest way of reaching commissions than the Commercial Bank, but better hours.
build a new church to replace the old one, them, but if you have camping equipment
and gave his messenger careful instructions ATSBI CLUSTER and lots of time, an exploration by bus and Sights
as to its location and construction. Like the Tembien cluster, most priests (and foot is both possible and very enjoyable. YOHANNES IV MUSEUM
Yet another Ethiopian legend? Yes, only their keys) are away at market on Saturday. The villages of Hawsien, Edaga Hamus, The Italian-designed stone palace built for
the day in question was in 1982, and the Minor churches in the Atsbi cluster include Wukro, Atsbi, Abi Addi and Sinkata are all Emperor Yohannes IV (r 1872 79) in 1873
church in question was Petros & Paulos, Cherkos (Agobo) and Zarema Giyorgis. served by minibuses. Some villages (such as is now an interesting museum (admission Birr24;
near Sinkata. Megab and Hawsien) are only well served Beneath the impressive vaulted
h8am-5pm).
In Ethiopia, legends are made every day. Mikael Barka on market days. juniper roof is a significant collection of Ethi-
Atop a small but panoramic hill and behind Quite good gravel roads now connect the opian manuscripts, crosses and icons. Many
an ugly 1960s façade sits this small rock- villages with most churches. Unfortunately, items had mysteriously formed part of a pri-
Petros & Paulos hewn church. It s cruciform in shape and the road linking Megab with Abi Addi vate collection in France, before being right-
Only partly hewn, this wood, stone and probably dates from the 13th century. It s (shown on most maps) is still impassable. fully returned to Ethiopia in 2001. There s a
mortar church is built on a steep ledge and 17km from Wukro, and reaching it involves See Getting There & Away under Aksum 50kg bronze sculpture of Mussolini s head,
has delightful old murals that are very rap- a 10-minute climb. (p142), Adigrat (p146) and Mekele (p153) which was brought here by Italy to adorn
idly deteriorating. From Wukro, or Adi- for details on hiring 4WDs. the palace s façade it s now on the floor in
grat, take a minibus to Teka Tesfay and walk Mikael Imba the corner. Touché il Duce! Upstairs, in the
about 3km from the junction. It s a five- Of all Tigray s rock-hewn churches, Mikael MEKELE emperor s personal quarters are some ornate
minute climb to the church using footholds Imba most resembles those seen at Lali- pop 157,688 / elev 2062m gilded saddles and an audacious throne.
up one precarious part. bela. A three-quarter monolith, the interior Mekele, Tigray s capital, owes its impor-
is huge (16.6m wide and 9m deep) with tance to the Emperor Yohannes IV, who MARTYRS MEMORIAL MONUMENT
WUKRO CLUSTER 25 pillars (nine freestanding) holding up made it his capital in the late 19th century. & MUSEUM
Chirkos the 6m-high ceiling. The view from here For the traveller, it s home to two reward- From a distance this memorial (admission Birr10;
This crooked cruciform sandstone church is is great. It s 9km south of Atsbi and has an ing museums and provides a useful base for
h8am-5pm) could be mistaken for the world s
semimonolithic and boasts beautiful cruci- easy 20-minute ascent, which is finished visits to the nearby rock-hewn churches of biggest golf ball and tee. From up close it s
form pillars (notice the swirling sandstone with a short ladder. Tigray and the baking Danakil Depression. another story, with stirring statues flanking
laminae), cubical capitals, an outstanding And unlike other large historical-circuit cit- the towering monument and compellingly
Aksumite frieze and a barrel-vaulted ceil- Debre Selam ies, it s almost hassle-free. illustrating the true cost of war. A plaque
ing. Haile Selassie oddly and unfortunately This church or church within a church nearby proudly reads, you completely de-
ordered the angular roof squared with con- has exceptional architecture, with an inner Information feated the seemingly immortal chauvinist
crete for aesthetic reasons in 1958. It lies rock-hewn section and interior structures There s no shortage of cheap Internet cafés enemies& The enemies it s referring to are
around 500m from Wukro and is the most constructed according to ancient Aksum- (Birr8 to Birr15 per hour) along the south the communist, Russian-backed Derg, while
easily accessible church. ite architectural style (alternating layers of end of Alula and Guna Sts. The town also the you refers to the Tigray People s Lib-
rock and wood). There s a beautiful carved has its requisite post office. eration Front (TPLF).
TEMBIEN CLUSTER arch leading into the maqdas. The setting Commercial Bank (Alula St; h8am-noon & 1-3.30pm Just north is a museum (admission currently incl
Avoid visiting on a Saturday, as most priests is lovely and there are good views from the Mon-Fri, 8-11.30am Sat) Changes cash and travellers with memorial) that hauntingly and proudly
will be away at market. top. It s close to Atsbi and also involves a cheques. There s a second branch near Lucy Park. exalts the successes and sacrifices made by
simple 20-minute ascent. Dashen Bank & Western Union (h8am-noon & TPLF during the 1970s and 80s.
Abba Yohanni 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) Rates as per Com- A second access road is being built to the
Impressively located partially up a 300m- Sleeping & Eating mercial Bank. museum from the north side of town.
high sheer cliff face, this church has a To put it mildly, accommodation in the El-Fami Business Internet Center (per hr Birr30;
three-aisled and four-bayed interior, eight nearby villages is brutal. Most have more
h8am-noon & 2-8pm) Overpriced Internet, but the only OTHER SIGHTS
finely hewn cruciform pillars that support fleas than water and electricity. provider to offer CD burning. Thanks to this city s burgeoning economy
the ceiling, and 10 vaults. It s also home to If you re travelling with a vehicle, sleep Emmanuel Clinic & Dental Unit (%0344 404692; and rapidly increasing population, the old
interesting church treasures and sits 15km in Aksum, Mekele or Adigrat. Without one, market has been cast out of the town cen-
h8.30am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noon Sat) A
from Abi Addi, including a 1km walk and the best accommodation in the midst of reliable clinic with diagnostic laboratory. Around the corner tre (in favour of a modern concrete mall)
a short climb with footholds. things is Wukro s Luwam Hotel (%0344 430126; is northern Ethiopia s best bet for dental action. and now sits almost 1km to the west. It s
d with shared bathroom Birr30, d Birr50). It s handily Telecommunications office (%0344 410667) definitely worth a stroll, particularly on
Gebriel Wukien behind the tourism office and has small but International calls. Standard rates (p267). Saturday before 10am. Witnessing salt bars
Architecturally interesting, this church very clean rooms we hope you like aqua- Tigrai Tourism Commission office (%0344 409360; brought in by camel from the Danakil De-
has three aisles and four bays. It features marine. Another option is to camp and to tigrai.tourism@ethionet.et; 5th fl, Commercial Bank Bldg, pression (see the boxed text, p154 ) is the
well-carved, interesting details; six massive, be fully self-sufficient. Alula St; h8.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri) unmistakable highlight.
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
152 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Mekel e www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Mekel e 153
0 500 m
418 and 310 to 320 (excluding 313 and 317) ing cakes, coffee, burgers and the like. The
MEKELE
0 0.3 miles
have nice views over the park and palace. smart 2nd-floor restaurant prepares pizzas,
AC D
B
Queen of Sheba Hotel (%0344 401387; Guna St; pastas and traditional Ethiopian fare.
To Rock-Hewn Churches
d with shared bathroom Birr40, d Birr50) Rooms here Yordanos Bright Bar & Restaurant (Alula St; mains
of Tigray; Hill Top Hotel
(600m); Wukro (46km);
are spartan yet sizable, and house ward- Birr10-30) Simply called Yordanos I, this res-
Negash (56km); Sinkata
(76km); Hawsien (94km);
1 robes, stone tile floors and clean bathrooms taurant is known to produce the best Italian
Adigrat (114km)
with hot showers. The spiral staircase isn t food in town. Eggplant, salami, anchovies,
to be attempted after a few wobbly pops chillies and spinach are just some of the
9 (beers). pizza toppings to choose from. The dining
16
21
13
Dallas Hotel (%0344 414100; d with shared bathroom room here becomes quite atmospheric in
14
Birr20, d Birr50) A good budget bet near the bus the evenings.
10
17 station; the rooms here are austere but clean Geza Gerlase (Guna St; mains Birr8-15) Although
18
19
To Old Market (700m); and comfy. They surround a vegetation- closed during our research due to a substan-
future second route to
Martyrs' Memorial Monument trimmed courtyard/parking area. tial fire, this great cultural restaurant and its
11 26 31
5
H H
& Museum (850m);
2 35
Abi Addi (85km) 3 Bisrat Hotel (%0344 401434; d with shared bath- traditional tukul should be back in action by
15 room Birr30) Just north of Dallas Hotel, this the time you ve arrived. Specialities include
place has simple, large rooms with clean tile zilzil tibs (strips of beef, fried and served
Mosque
floors. Some windows face the hall, mak- slightly crunchy with awazi sauce) and kitfo
39
New
34
Mall ing some options brighter than others. The (minced beef or lamb like the French steak
33
shared bathrooms are clean and hot water tartare, usually served warmed but not
H
Church of Tekla.........................14 C2
is available. cooked in butter, berbere and sometimes
24
Derg Bombing Monument..........15 B2
25
thyme). Vegetarians steer clear.
Enda Maryam Church.................16 A1
Kidane Mehret Church...............17 D2
MIDRANGE Axumamit Hotel & Restaurant (mains Birr8-18)
38
Lucy Park...................................18 B2
3
Aksum Hotel (%0344 405155; axum.n@ethionet.et; If you re after an interesting Ethiopian at-
Medhane Alem..........................19 D2
Tewahido Church......................20 A4
s/tw Birr180/210, ste Birr360-500) Everything from tempt at Western fare, like veal gorden
29
Yohannes IV Museum................21 B1
the chairs to the exterior screams stylised blue this rooftop terrace is good.
12
SLEEPING
Aksum stelae at this fine hotel. The rooms Rafi Cafe (Alula St; snacks Birr2.50) A tiny mod-
28 Abreha Castle Hotel...................22 A4
Secondary here are Mekele s most comfortable and ern café with good croissants and coffee.
Aksum Hotel..............................23 C4
School
20
Bisrat Hotel................................24 C3
all boast satellite TVs, telephones and bal- Seti Supermarket (h5am-10pm) One of a few
Dallas Hotel...............................25 C3
To Martyrs' Memorial
Hatsey Yohannes Hotel..............26 B2 conies. The hotel is well looked after and supermarkets for self-caterers or those stock-
Monument & Museum
4
(850m) Queen of Sheba Hotel................27 B4
36
1 very clean. ing up for a trip to Tigray s rock churches.
2
EATING Abreha Castle Hotel (%0344 406535; fax 0344
30 Axumamit Hotel & Restaurant..(see 11)
4
402258; s/tw with shared bathroom US$13.75/18, s/tw Drinking
32 Geza Gerlase..............................28 B3
27
Milkana Café & Restaurant.........29 B3
US$17.50/21) This 19th-century mansion is There are countless little cafés that pump out
6 Rafi Cafe....................................30 A4
22 8
rather regal from the exterior, but its in- great coffee you can t really go wrong.
Seti Supermarket........................31 B2
23
7 37 To Airport
Yordanos Bright Bar &
terior is showing its age with 1970s green Abreha Castle Hotel (beers Birr6-8) The scenic
(8km); Woldia
Restaurant.............................32 A4
(268km)
carpets and dated drapes. That said, rooms and breezy terrace of this grand old man-
To Chelekot DRINKING
here have more character than any at sion is the best place for a late afternoon
(15km)
Abreha Castle Hotel.................(see 22)
Aksum Hotel. Rooms 203 and 204 have drink.
Central Cafe...............................33 B3
INFORMATION Post Office...................................9 A1
high ceilings and tall arched windows that Central Cafe (juices Birr4) Watch them squeeze
City Computer.............................1 A4 Telecommunications Office........10 B2 TRANSPORT
Comel Electronics.........................2 B4 Tigrai Tourism Commission Bike Hire....................................34 A2 offer great views over Mekele. the life out of fruit, right before your eyes.
5 Commercial Bank.........................3 B2 office.....................................(see 4) Bus Station.................................35 C2
Hill Top Hotel (%0344 405683; d/tw Birr120/240, Painful to watch. Delicious to drink.
Commercial Bank.........................4 A4 Wegagen Bank...........................11 B2 Ethiopian Airlines.......................36 A4
Dashen Bank & Western Union....5 B2 GK Ahadu Tours & Travel ste Birr180-360) One of the only establishments
El-Fami Business Internet Center...6 B4 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Agency..................................37 B4
without faranji prices, this slightly out-of- Getting There & Away
Emmanuel Clinic...........................7 B4 Catholic Cathedral......................12 B3 Taxi Stand..................................38 B3
Emmanuel Dental Unit.................8 B4 Church of Tekla..........................13 C1 Taxi Stand..................................39 B2
the-way place, 1km north of centre, rep- Ethiopian Airlines (%0344 400055) flies to Addis
resents good value. The large rooms have Ababa (US$125, 1½ hours, daily) and Ak-
queen-sized beds, fridges, phones, satellite sum (US$40, 30 minutes, Monday, Wednes-
About 200m southwest of the telecom- Sleeping TVs and decent carpets. Sadly, only the day and Friday).
munications building there s an intriguing BUDGET restaurant takes advantage of the amazing Numerous morning buses run to Adi-
statue rising in a roundabout. It s a monu- Hatsey Yohannes Hotel (%0344 406760; s/tw incl view. grat (Birr14, three hours), while one runs to
ment dedicated to 2500 people who were breakfast Birr103/138) This big and bright place Aksum (Birr28 to Birr35, 8½ hours, 6am).
killed in Hawsien by a Derg bombing raid. is opposite Lucy Park and has dozens of Eating To Addis Ababa, you have the choice of
There are several churches, both old and rooms. Most are carpeted and have bal- Milkana Café & Restaurant (mains Birr10-20) Off normal service (Birr82, two days, 6am) or
new, dotting the city and their large towers conies, satellite TVs (one English channel Guna St, Mekele s most popular café oc- deluxe Cobra Service (Birr150, two days,
are visible throughout. only) and hot-water showers. Rooms 414 to cupies the ground and 1st floors here, serv- 6am). For Lalibela, take the normal Addis
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
Selam St
Ageazi St
Alula St
Guna St
154 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Danaki l Depressi on www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Wol di a 155
Ababa bus and get off in Woldia (Birr30, its underlying continental crust pulled thin Wukro (%0344 430340; h8am-5pm) or Mekele for passing buses near the Shell station at
5½ hours). (thanks to being part of the Red Sea rift sys- (p151). Besides helping with advice on per- the Lalibela junction on the main Addis
For the Tigray churches, minibuses leave tem), it s peppered with countless colourful missions and pointing you in the right direc- Mekele road.
from the bus station daily for Abi Addi sulphurous springs and an astonishing 25% tion, staff can also help plan your itinerary.
(Birr15, three hours, one daily), Wukro of Africa s active volcanoes. Remember, you need to treat a journey LALIBELA
(Birr8, one hour, 10 daily) and, on Wednes- Irta ale (613m), the most famous volcano, here in full expedition style; unprepared pop 8484 / elev 2630m
day only, Hawsien (Birr15, 2½ hours). For has been in a state of continuous eruption people have perished in a matter of hours. I weary of writing more about these
Atsbi, go to Wukro first; for Sinkata, take since 1967. Its small southerly crater is the buildings, because it seems to me that I
the Adigrat bus (Birr8, 1½ hours). only permanent lava lake on the planet. De- WOLDIA shall not be believed if I write more& but
There are lots of private 4WD operators spite gentle slopes, a night-time hike to its pop 24,533 / elev 2112m swear I by God in Whose power I am,
who offer church trips; prices range from summit for sunrise is as captivating as it is ex- The town of Woldia provides a springboard that all that is written is the truth, and
Birr600 to Birr1000 per day. Their reliabil- hausting. Taking camels is a viable option. for visits to its famous neighbour, Lalibela, there is much more than what I have
ity and quality of vehicle is unfortunately If you d simply like to visit the lowest place 120km to the northwest. Stock up on pet- written, and I have left it that they may
left for you to determine. The only licensed on the continent, head for Dallol (-116m), rol, batteries, birr (the Commercial Bank not tax me with its being falsehood.
operator in Mekele is G.K. Ahadu Tours & Travel which is about 25km north of the village exchanges cash and travellers cheques), and Francisco Alvares (early-16th-century
Agency (%0344 406466; gkahadu@ethionet.et), which Hamd Ela. More rewarding is a trip to Lake anything you might need from a pharmacy Portuguese writer) From Ho Preste
offers quality trucks at extortionate rates: Afera (-102m), which is 30km (or five to nine before leaving. Lalibela, despite its fame, is Joam das Indias: Verdadera informa-
Birr1200 per day for Tigray s churches and hours by 4WD!) south of Irta ale. Its waters still the back of beyond. cam das terras do Preste Joam
Birr1500 for the Danakil Depression! are bright green and its salty shores have been Mechare Hotel (%0333 310233; tw with shared bath- (Lisbon 1540; Lisbon 1889)
harvested for centuries by the Afar people room Birr60, d Birr60-70) has tidy Birr60 doubles
Getting Around (p46), a nomadic ethnic group known in the with comfy beds, linoleum floors, cold show- Unlike Francisco Alvares, you ll have pho-
There are several taxi stands around town. past for their legendary ferocity. ers and the odd balcony. The Birr70 options tos to back up your stories of Lalibela s
A contract taxi to the airport, 8km out of An excursion into this harsh and astound- offer hot water and larger beds. The shared majesty. Here, high in the rugged Lasta
town, cost between Birr30 and Birr40. You ing world isn t something everyone can han- showers are clean, but aren t so private. Its Mountains, is Africa s Petra .
can also take a minibus (Birr2, 20 min- dle. It is, however, something nobody will restaurant (mains Birr5 to Birr12) is consid- An ancient world, including 11 magnifi-
utes) to the village of Quiha and ask to be ever forget. It s best visited between Decem- ered Woldia s best. The hotel is 900m north cent medieval rock-hewn churches, dimly
dropped off en route; the airport s only ber and February when it s at its coolest. of the bus station at the main junction. lit passageways, hidden crypts and grottoes,
200m from the highway. Trips here can be organised through Ganet Hotel (%0333 310327; d with shared bath- was carved down into the red volcanic rock
Short hops in a share-taxi or three- tour operators in Addis Ababa (see p282 ) room Birr12-15, d Birr25), north of Mechare Hotel, underlying this remote Ethiopian town al-
wheeled cycle costs Birr1. Contract taxis or through G.K. Ahadu Tours & Travel Agency has spartan, smallish rooms with soft foam most a millennia ago. Today that world still
cost Birr10 to Birr20. Bikes can be hired (%0344 406466; gkahadu@ethionet.et) in Mekele. mattresses. The bathrooms aren t spotless, remains, frozen in stone.
near the mosque for Birr4 per hour. If you re travelling with a group of private but they ll do. The price is right. Descend into the tunnels and pass trad-
4WDs (taking only one 4WD is suicide), Selam Hotel (%0333 311968; d Birr100) has large itional priests and monks who float through
DANAKIL DEPRESSION you must contact the Afar Tourism Commis- clean rooms that host satellite TVs, phones, the confines like the clouds of incense, smell
Say goodbye to Earth and say hello to sion (%0336 660181; fax 0336 660448) regarding dimmer lights and spotless bathrooms with beeswax candles and hear the sounds of
Venus. With several points lying more than permission and to arrange picking up your hot showers and two toilets (one squat and chanting coming from the deep, cool re-
100m below sea level, the Danakil Depres- mandatory Afar guide (Birr100 per day) at one sit take your pick!). Seeing that locals cesses, only to find yourself standing in the
sion has acquired a reputation as one of the the Afar tourist office near Berahile. If you d only pay Birr50, try negotiating (we got sunlight, slack-jawed and staring up to a
hottest, most inhospitable places on Earth. like a hand with the Afar formalities, stop in them to Birr80 before walking). It s on the structure that defies reason.
Temperatures can soar to 50°C and with at the Tigrai Tourism Commission office in main Addis Mekele road between Mechare Lalibela, a World Heritage site, undoubt-
and Ganet. edly ranks among the greatest religio-
historical sites in the Christian world.
SALT FOR GOLD
Getting There & Away Though the town has drawn tourists
The bus to Lalibela (Birr25, five to seven since the 16th century, it remains remark-
Since earliest times and right up to the present day, salt, a precious commodity for people and
hours) is supposed to leave at 6am, but ably undeveloped. Sporadic electricity has
their animals, has been used as a kind of currency in Ethiopia. According to Kosmos, a 6th-
doesn t usually leave until 9am or 10am just arrived and there are still no banks or
century Egyptian writing in Greek, the kings of Aksum sent expeditions west to barter salt, among
(when it s full). If there s a seat, the Addis pharmacies.
other things, for hunks of gold!
Ababa bus to Lalibela also picks up at the Lalibela also remains a very isolated
Mined in the Danakil Depression, the mineral was transported hundreds of kilometres west
bus station around 10am. There s usually at place, sitting at 2630m. The journey over-
across the country to the Ethiopian court in Shoa. Later, the salt was cut into small, rectangular
least one aid or government truck also mak- land continues to be quite long and arduous,
blocks, which came to be known as amole; their value grew with every kilometre that they
ing the daily journey; inquire at the Total with the sense of arrival feeling more like
travelled further from the mine.
station or around the Lal Hotel that after making a great pilgrimage. In fact,
To this day, Afar nomads and their camels continue to follow this ancient salt route. Cutting
There are also three daily buses to Dessie Lalibela is a centre of pilgrimage for many
the bars by hand from the salt lakes in western Ethiopia, they spend weeks travelling by caravan
(Birr12, 3½ hours). For Mekele (Birr30, 5½ Ethiopian Orthodox Christians and being
to market, where the bars will be bartered.
hours) or Addis Ababa, you should wait here for a major festival is unforgettable.
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
156 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Lal i bel a www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Lal i bel a 157
History Information
NOTEBOOK SCAM
Lalibela, initially known as Roha, was the There are several expensive Internet options
Zagwe dynasty s capital in the 12th and in town (up to Birr2 per minute), but they You ll undoubtedly come across a child with an improbable sob story here. One child approached
13th centuries. After the death of King La- rarely ever have connections. Roha Hotel us and started with, both my parents are dead. After briefly consoling him, we noticed he
libela, the ruler credited with the construc- (p161) can usually change cash and travellers had a Chelsea FC top on so switched to happier subjects, namely football. Soon the child was
tion of the churches, the town was named cheques, while the Seven Olives Hotel (p161) excited and before he knew it, he d asked us to his house so his mother could perform a coffee
after him. can change cash (US dollars) neither give ceremony! Oops!
Scholars and local tradition both believe good rates. Most sob stories , whether genuine or not, usually lead to the child feigning the desperate
(a rare consensus!) that the churches date Lalibela Health Center (%0333 360416; h8.30am- need of school materials, particularly notebooks. Compelled by guilt, numerous travellers have
from around Lalibela s reign in the 12th noon & 1.30-5.30pm) purchased notebooks only to happen upon the child gleefully returning it to the vendor for
or 13th century. Legend states that King Telecommunications office (h8am-8pm) Interna- cash later.
Lalibela was exiled or fled to Jerusalem in tional calls. Standard rates (p267). It s next to the post office. As always, never give directly to children; it only encourages them to beg and actually keeps
fear of persecution from his half-brother. Tourism office (%0333 360167; h8am-noon & them away from school. If you want to help with education, it s best to approach the school and
Intrigued by the buildings he found, King 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri) This office offers some helpful find out what materials they re short of. This will allow the teachers to distribute materials to
Lalibela vowed to build a new holy city advice and sells several small booklets on Lalibela. those students actually in need. No you won t see the joy in the child s face, but if you re giving
when he returned. Another legend claims for the right reason that should not be important.
that it was, in fact, a heavenly vision that Dangers & Annoyances
Lalibela saw. The biggest (but minor) gripe most travel-
Perhaps King Lalibela was making a de- lers have with Lalibela are its smallest resi- Although visiting without a guide is pos- ticket office. From a size perspective, this
liberate attempt to create a new Jerusalem dents fleas. They tend to be found on the sible getting lost in the warren of tun- group is easily the most impressive.
on African soil, far from Muslim usurpers, rugs in churches. A little sprinkle of flea nels is quite memorable and usually not
and accessible to all Ethiopians. Even the powder on your socks at the start of the day permanent you ll miss out on many of Bet Medhane Alem
names of Lalibela s features echo those of usually does the trick. the amazing subtleties each church has to Resembling a massive Greek temple more
Jerusalem: the River Jordan, Calvary, and Harassment from unlicensed guides can offer. We d recommend going once with than a traditional Ethiopian church, Bet
the Tomb of Adam. However, the buildings also be as irritating as a flea in your nether a guide and once solo, in whichever order Medhane Alem (Saviour of the World) is
are so different from each other in style, regions. Because unemployment is high, you so choose. Local licensed guides can be impressive for its size and majesty. Said
craftsmanship and state of preservation the prospect of money earned from guiding arranged at the tourism office for a set fee to be the largest rock-hewn church in the
that they may span a much longer period is attractive, to children as well as adults. of Birr150 per day (Birr200 for groups of world, it measures 33.5m by 23.5m and is
than Lalibela s reign. Using children as guides encourages them five or more). However, during slow times over 11.5 high.
The consensus between scholars and local to play truant at school, while using un- licensed guides on the street (always ask Some scholars have suggested that the
tradition is thrown out the window when licensed guides encourages unhealthy mi- to see their license) will occasionally drop church may have been a copy in rock of
discussions about who built the churches gration to Lalibela (and more unemployed their fees. the original St Mary of Zion church in
arises. Some wizardly scholars with power- guides harassing travellers). Hiring either The ticket office (h8am-noon & 2-5pm) lies Aksum.
ful calculators have estimated that it would also won t contribute to your visit, as few beside the path leading to the northern The building is surrounded by 34 large,
have taken a workforce of some 40,000 to children or unlicensed guides know much group of churches and Bet Medhane Alem. rectangular columns (many actually replicas
construct the churches, while locals claim about the churches. Tickets give access to all churches in town of the originals). The three jointed at each
that, toiling all the hours of daylight, the Pestering from young children can also be for the duration of your stay. corner are thought to represent the Holy
earthly workforce was then replaced by a a problem (see Notebook Scam, opposite). Note that camera flashes inside churches Trinity. There are a further 38 columns in-
celestial one, who toiled all the hours of cause great damage to the murals and fres- side which support the gabled roof.
darkness. In this way, the churches rose at Sights coes, so please resist using one. Many of the The interior consists of a barrel-vaulted
a miraculous speed! Lalibela s rock-hewn churches (admission Birr100, priests are more than happy to show off nave and four aisles. Look for the three
However, foreign intervention, whether personal video cameras Birr150; h8am-5.30pm) are their church s treasures and pose obligingly empty graves in one corner, said to have
celestial or mortal, can almost certainly be remarkable for three main reasons: be- beside them for photos. It is customary and been prepared symbolically for Abraham,
ruled out. Long a victim of the usual it can t cause many are not carved into the rock, polite to tip them something small after- Isaac and Jacob. Pierced stone panels fill
be African chauvinism, Lalibela in fact al- but freed entirely from it (unlike most of wards (Birr5). the windows, each decorated with different
most certainly represents the pinnacle of Petra); because the buildings are so refined; The self-appointed shoe bearers found at central crosses. You may be allowed to see
a very long-standing Ethiopian building and because there are so many within such each church doorway seemed to have disap- the famous 7kg gold Lalibela cross. In 1997
tradition. a small area. peared at the time of research, but should it was stolen by an Ethiopian antique dealer
Exceptional masonry skills had long Although time has treated the churches they return a tip of Birr1per person per and sold to a Belgian tourist for US$25,000.
been in existence during the days of with remarkably gentle gloves, Unesco has church is fair. Thankfully, it was recovered.
Aksum, and indeed most of the churches built rather hideous scaffolding and roofing Lastly, don t forget to bring your torch!
show clear characteristics of the ancient over most churches to protect frescoes from Bet Maryam
Aksumite style. If angels did build the water seepage. They shouldn t take away NORTHWESTERN GROUP OF CHURCHES Connected to Bet Medhane Alem by a tun-
churches, they were almost certainly Ethi- from your enjoyment, but they do make This group contains six of Lalibela s 11 nel is a large courtyard containing three
opian angels! photography more challenging. churches and sits immediately behind the churches. The first, Bet Maryam, is small,
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
158 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Lal i bel a www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Lal i bel a 159
0 500 m
Nobody knows what lays beneath, though You may be shown a blackened metal cross
LALIBELA
0 0.3 miles
rumours abound ask your guide. (thought to symbolise the nails of cruci-
AC D
B
fixion) and a large prayer stick (composed
Bet Meskel of wood, iron and horn), both supposed
INFORMATION Jerusalem Guest House..............14 A4 Megabi Cafeteria.......................23 A4
Ethio Supermarket........................1 A4 Lal Hotel....................................15 A4 Megenagna Hotel......................24 C2
Carved into the courtyard s northern wall belongings of King Lalibela. Sadly women
Internet Café................................2 C2 Lalibela Hotel.............................16 B4 Roha Hotel..............................(see 18)
1 at Bet Maryam is the tiny semichapel of Bet are not allowed into Bet Golgotha.
Lalibela Health Center..................3 B3 Mini Roha Hotel (Private Seven Olives Hotel..................(see 19)
Post Office...................................4 B2 Roha).....................................17 A3 Unique Restaurant.....................25 C3
Meskel. Four pillars divide the gallery into Standing in a deep trench in front of the
Telecommunications Office..........5 B2 Roha Hotel................................18 A4
two aisles spanned by arcades. western façade of Bet Golgotha is the so-
Tourism office..............................6 B4 Seven Olives Hotel.....................19 C3 DRINKING
Van Internet.................................7 B4 Tukol Village..............................20 B4 Askalech Tej House....................26 B3
Keep an eye out for the cross carved in called Tomb of Adam. It consists of a giant,
relief beneath stylised foliage on one of the hollowed-out block of stone.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES EATING SHOPPING
Ticket Office................................8 B3 Blue Lal Hotel..........................(see 11) Fine Art Gallery..........................27 A4
spandrels of the arches.
Dirb Tezara Restaurant...............21 C3
SLEEPING Jerusalem Guest House............(see 14) TRANSPORT SOUTHEASTERN GROUP OF CHURCHES
Alif Paradise Hotel........................9 B4 John Cafeteria & Lalibela Bus Station.................................28 C3
Bet Danaghel Although smaller in size than the north-
Asheton Hotel............................10 C3 Restaurant.............................22 C3 Ethiopian Airlines.......................29 C2
Blue Lal Hotel.............................11 C3 To the south of the Bet Maryam courtyard is western group, the southeastern cluster
Heaven Guest House..................12 B4
2
the chapel of Bet Danaghel, said to have been offers one of Lalibela s most finely carved
Helen Hotel................................13 B4
School
constructed in memory of the maiden nuns churches as well as some intrigue, with
To Ashetan
24
To Bilbila Giyorgis (32km); martyred on the orders of the 4th-century various historians debating whether some
Maryam (7km)
Arbatu Ensessa (35km);
5
Bilbila Chirkos (35km); Roman emperor Julian in Edessa (modern- churches had pasts as prisons and palaces.
2
Yemrehanna Kristos
29
4
(42km by road, 20km by mule); day Turkey). Many of its features the cruci-
Sekota (100km) 11 To Na'akuto La'ab
22 28 (6km); Airport (23km); Geneta
form pillars and bracket capitals are typical Bet Gabriel-Rufael
Maryam (30km); Machina Maryam
3
H 25
21
(42km); Gashema (64km); Woldia
architectural features of the churches. Its entrance flanked to the west by a sloping
10
(180km); Bahir Dar (261km)
19
8 sliver of hewn rock known as the Way to
26
Bet Golgotha, Bet Mikael & Selassie Heaven , this imposing twin-church marks
3
Chapel the main entrance to the southeastern
17
NORTHWESTERN GROUP OF CHURCHES 0 50 m group.
Saturday
Market
A tunnel at the southern end of the Bet Unlike most Lalibela churches its en-
Bet Meskel
F F
See Enlargement
Maryam courtyard connects it to the twin trance is at the top and is accessed by a
Tomb of
Adam
F F churches of Bet Golgotha and Bet Mikael small walkway, high over the moatlike
Orthodox
Cemetery
Bet
Bet Golgotha, Bet Mikael Bet Medhane (also known as Bet Debre Sina). trench below. This, along with its curious,
Maryam
& Selassie Chapel Alem
Bet
Bet Mikael serves as an anteroom to the irregular floor plan, has led scholars to pro-
13
To airport Danaghel Bet Amanuel
6
road (2km)
Selassie Chapel, one of Lalibela s holiest pose that Bet Gabriel-Rufael may have been
9
16 sanctuaries. It contains three monolithic a fortified palace for Aksumite royalty as
20
4
Bet
altars. One is decorated with a beautiful early as the 7th and 8th centuries.
Bet
Bet
Gabriel-Rafael
1 Merkorios
18 Giyorgis
St Lalibela
relief of four winged creatures with their Although the section of Bet Rufael s roof
Secondary School Bet Abba Libanos
27 23
hands held up in prayer; it s thought to that collapsed has been rebuilt, services
SOUTHEASTERN GROUP OF CHURCHES
15
7
represent the four evangelists. Unfortu- only take place in Bet Gabriel. Once inside
14
12
nately, the chapel is very rarely open to the complex you ll realise its monumental
the public. façade was its most interesting feature.
yet designed and decorated to an exception- which represents the criminal who mocked Bet Golgotha is known for containing
ally high standard. Dedicated to the Virgin, Jesus and was sentenced to hell, has the some of the best early examples of Ethi- Bet Merkorios
who s particularly venerated in Ethiopia, small irregular-shaped opening below it. opian Christian art. On the so-called Tomb Reached via a long, narrow and pitch-black
this is the most popular church among pil- Above the western porch and squeezed of Christ (an arched recess in the northeast tunnel that starts from Bet Gabriel-Rufael,
grims. Some believe it may have been the beneath the roof is a rare and beautifully of the church) a recumbent figure is carved this current church may have started as
first church built by Lalibela. carved bas-relief of St George fighting the in high relief; above it, in low relief, hovers something altogether different. The discov-
On its eastern wall you ll see two sets of dragon. an angel. Almost as amazing are the life-size ery of ankle shackles among other objects
three windows. According to scholars, the Inside, the ceilings and upper walls are depictions of seven saints carved into the has led scholars to believe that the building
upper set is thought to represent the Holy painted with very early frescoes, and the walls niches. may have served as the town s prison, or
Trinity, while the lower three, set below columns, capital and arches are covered Close to the Tomb of Christ is a movable house of justice.
a small cross-shaped window, are believed in beautifully carved details such as birds, slab of stone, said to cover the most secret Due to a large section of roof collapsing,
to represent the crucifixion of Jesus and animals and foliage, including a curious place in the holy city, the tomb of King La- the interior is a fraction of its former size.
the two sinners. The lower right window two-headed eagle and two fighting bulls, libela himself. Such is the importance and Don t miss the beautiful fresco thought to
has a small irregular-shaped opening above one white, one black (thought to represent sanctity of Golgotha that a visit is said to represent the three wise men. With their lit-
it, a signal that this sinner was accepted good and evil). assure your place in heaven! tle flipper hands and eyes that look askance,
to heaven after repenting his sins and ask- At the nave s eastern end is a column Bet Golgotha also boasts some of La- they re delightfully depicted; it may date
ing for Jesus help. The lower left window, that s kept permanently wrapped in cloth. libela s most important religious treasures. from the 15th century. The 12 apostles are
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
River Jordan
an
d
r
Jo
er
Ri
v
160 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Lal i bel a www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Lal i bel a 161
also represented in a less attractive fresco, Meskel and Kiddus Yohannes are also busy. Lalibela Hotel (%0333 360036; s/tw Birr50/100)
HOOFPRINTS & SAINTLY REMINDERS
probably of a later date. See p261 for dates and details. A good-value option for singles, the rooms
Just as King Lalibela was finishing off his
The painting on cotton fabric is believed Outside these periods, try to attend at here are crisp and clean. And unlike most
series of churches, he was suddenly paid an
to date from the 16th century, though the least one church s saint s day; inquire at places in this price range, they aren t trying
priests will claim it s 14th century. For- unexpected visit. Astride a white horse and
your hotel. to hide dirty corners, so rooms and loos
decked out in full armour came Ethiopia s
merly, such paintings were plastered to the are actually lit by more than a 5-watt bulb.
patron saint, George. However, the saint
church walls with a mixture of straw, ox Sleeping Heck, you can even read by it!
turned out to be severely piqued: not one of
blood and mud. Note that vacancies are almost nonexistent Blue Lal Hotel (%0333 360380; d & tw Birr120-150)
the churches had been dedicated to him.
during the festival period and European Although extremely austere, these rooms
Profusely apologetic, Lalibela promised
Bet Amanuel Christmas, so reservations up to six months are bright, clean and the showers spurt hot
Freestanding and monolithic, this is consid- to make amends immediately by building
in advance aren t unheard of. However, water. Land room 2, 3 or 4 and you ll have
him the most beautiful church of all.
ered one of the Lalibela s most finely carved prices for reserved rooms during these times a balcony to play on.
Today, the priests of Bet Giyorgis (mean-
churches. Some have suggested Bet Amanuel soar one hotel s Birr150 room jumps to Mini Roha Hotel (%0333 360394; s/d with shared
ing Place of George ) point out the hoof-
was the royal family s private chapel. US$50! If you arrive during a festival with- bathroom Birr30/60) Also known as Private
prints left behind by the saint s horse,
It perfectly replicates the style of Aksumite out reservations, you ll risk being forced into Roha, this is the best of the bottom feed-
permanently imprinted in stone on the
buildings, with its projecting and recessed a dive. Conversely, if there s space, you ll end ers. Set around a patio, the dimly lit rooms
side of the trench.
walls mimicking alternating layers of wood up paying a fraction of what you would have are reasonably clean but have no glass win-
and stone. To appreciate this fully, you if you d made those costly reservations. dows. Open the shutters though, and you
should make a day trip to Yemrehanna Kris- Discounts are negotiable in most hotels may land a view. Oddly, the toilet has quite
tos (p163), which is one of Ethiopia s best- Meskel Kebra, with a little help from angels. from May through August. the vista!
preserved Aksumite structures. The church seems to grow from the rock Lalibela suffers from water shortages, Other options:
The most striking feature of the interior is and gives you a vivid idea of the work re- particularly during dry season and high Helen Hotel (%0333 360053; s/tw Birr80/120)
the double Aksumite frieze in the nave. Al- quired to excavate these churches. tourism season. Hotels may limit shower- Alif Paradise Hotel (%0333 360023; s/tw Birr80/120)
though not accessible, there s even a spiral A tunnel leads off the church to the tiny ing to early mornings and evenings or may
staircase connecting the four-pillared walls chapel of Bet Lehem. give out buckets of warm water instead. MIDRANGE
to an upper gallery. In the southern aisle, a Lengthy electrical cuts are still a problem. Roha Hotel (%0333 360009; ghion@ethionet.et; camp-
hole in the floor (beneath the donation box) BET GIYORGIS Due to an increasing number of travellers ing per 2-person tent US$12.50, s/d/ste US$38/50/75) Al-
leads to a long, subterranean tunnel (one Resting all on its own, south and west of the visiting Lalibela, a few new hotel projects, though the comfortable and cosy rooms are
of three) which connects the church to Bet northwestern and southeastern groups, is like Tukol Village, are starting to crop up. identical to its state-owned brothers (Bahir
Merkorios and Bet Gabriel-Rufael. Lalibela s masterpiece, Bet Giyorgis. Stand- Next on the horizon is the Yemrha Hotel, Dar s Tana Hotel, Gonder s Goha Hotel and
Outside, you may see the odd sacred ing on the brow of its compound, you ll which is being built by Green Land Tours Aksum s Yeha Hotel), its lobby, dining area
bee flying about. Behind a high door in have little doubt that it s the most mesmer- (see www.yemrhahotel.com or www.green and bar are a steep step up in the archi-
the courtyard s southern wall is their hive. ising object in all of Ethiopia. landethiopia.com for details). tectural beauty department. Rooms 220 to
Throughout Ethiopia, honey produced in Representing the apogee of the rock-hewn 229 have sunset views. Campers have access
churches is believed to possess special heal- tradition, it s the most visually perfect BUDGET to hot showers and the hotel has its own
ing properties. church of all, a 15m-high three-tiered Asheton Hotel (%0333 360030; s with shared bathroom generator.
The chambers in the walls are the old plinth in the shape of a Greek cross. Due Birr50, tw Birr100) The twin rooms, with white- Tukol Village (%0333 360564; camping per tent
graves of pilgrims who requested to be bur- to its exceptional preservation, it also lacks washed walls, local art and embroidered bed- US$4, s/d US$20/30) Scheduled to be open by
ied here. the obtrusive scaffolding seen on the other ding, have more character than other budget the time you read this, this hotel has several
churches. options. They re starting to age though our two-storey red sandstone tukuls, some of
Bet Abba Libanos Inside, light flows in from the windows Aksumite-inspired coat hook fell from the which offer views over Bet Giyorgis from
Bet Abba Libanos is hewn into a rock face and illuminates the ceiling s large crosses wall and plunged to its death on the car- their balconies. It also rents quality two-
and is unique among Lalibela s churches beauty in simplicity. There are also two 800- pet floor. The showers are hot, the service person Dutch tents for US$3 per day (US$5
in that it s a hypogeous church. In English, year-old olive-wood boxes; one (with the op- is pleasant and the prices are always negoti- if you take them outside Lalibela).
that means only the roof and floor remain posing corkscrew keys) is rumoured to have able. The spartan singles aren t as pleasing. Seven Olives Hotel (%0333 360020; s/d US$15/
attached to the strata. been carved by King Lalibela himself. Heaven Guest House (%0333 360075; tw with 27.50) Now privately run, this place has drop-
Like Bet Amanuel, many of its architec- Be warned that some of the cavities in the shared bathroom US$10, s/tw US$10/15) Wood ceil- ped its prices by US$10 despite the improved
tural features, such as the friezes, are Ak- walls surrounding the church hold unset- ings look over shiny linoleum wood floors, quality. The large rooms and bathrooms still
sumite. Curiously, although it looks large tling mummified corpses. sturdy yet comfortable beds and creative feel a bit old, but the beds are new and the
from the outside, the interior is actually See also the boxed text, above. Aksumite headboards. The bathrooms are updated plumbing gushes hot water 24 hours
very small. The carved corners of its cubic tidy and put forth hot H20. This new place a day. Its leafy terrace is its strongest asset.
capitals are rather unique; some guides say Festivals & Events is very clean and the friendly owner is keen Rooms 10 to 16 offer the best views.
they may represent angel eyes. The most exciting time to visit is during a to keep it that way. Its future looks bright, Lal Hotel (%0333 360008; laltour@ethionet.et; camp-
The church is said to have been con- major festival, when thousands of pilgrims especially with a small tukul restaurant ing Birr60, s/d US$30/36) Art-clad stone walls, small
structed in a single night by Lalibela s wife, crowd in for Timkat, Leddet and Fasika. under construction. bathrooms and laminate floors call these
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
162 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Lal i bel a www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Around Lal i bel a 163
large rooms home. Rooms 16, 20 and 57 Drinking If you think Landrovers are crude brutes, Transportation to/from Lalibela must
through 65 offer views west. Discounts are Besides having a cold sunset drink on the you can hire a mule for longer or steeper be arranged privately, though TESFA rec-
usually negotiable, though all rooms cost Seven Olive Hotel s terrace, there s one other treks; ask at your hotel. A full day should ommends the local 4WD operator Habte
US$48 during festivals. Free airport transfer drinking experience you shouldn t miss. set you back Birr50 to Birr70 per mule and (habte@ethionet.et) who has fixed rates of
is offered. Askalech Tej House (flask of tej Birr5) Also known driver. A shorter trip to Ashetan Maryam Birr700 for drop offs at Gashema (start of
Jerusalem Guest House (%0333 360047; camping as torpedo , it serves tej (honey wine) of and Na akuto La ab will cost Birr35 to trek) and Birr800 for pick-ups at Filakit
per tent US$10, s/d US$30/40) These large, rather varying potency. There s usually traditional Birr40. A tip of Birr15 for short day journeys (end of trek).
vacant-feeling rooms have one massive music after 7pm. is recommended, Birr30 for longer days. Due to limited space, these treks must be
thing going for them: they all open onto booked well in advance.
private balconies that overlook the low- Shopping AROUND LALIBELA
lands and the amazing sunsets. Fine Art Gallery (h7am-8pm) One shop that Many other fascinating churches and mon- Churches & Monasteries
stands out from Lalibela s throng of sou- asteries lie within a day s striking distance The churches around Lalibela vary greatly
Eating venir shacks. Inside are beautiful watercol- of Lalibela, and a journey to them, whether in style, design and age, some are even
Seven Olives Hotel (mains Birr16-32) Eat inside the our and sepia paintings created by Tegegne by foot, mule or 4WD, is rewarding. Don t thought to predate those in Lalibela. Quite
round, modernised tukul or dine alfresco Yirdaw, a local artist who can count Prin- forget to look for the endemic white-billed tucked away and still absent from any mod-
on the leafy terrace. An Ethiopian chef with cess Anne as one of his work s admirers. starlings while on the go! The stunning ern maps, the churches require a guide to
experience in America was training the staff Small originals range from Birr150 to countryside is also home to unique eco- find them. Although many are in need of
to make more than the usual faranji fare Birr200. tourism treks. urgent restoration, such as Ashetan Mar-
when we were in town. Most meals were yam, Bilbila Chirkos and Bilbila Giyorgis, a
already hitting their mark. Getting There & Away Ecotreks on the Mesket Escarpment few are in amazing states of preservation.
Jerusalem Guest House (mains Birr15-22) This Ethiopian Airlines (%0333 360046) flies at least For a real insight into the life of Ethiopian See Lalibela s Getting Around section
hotel s large tukul restaurant serves decent once daily to Addis Ababa (US$102, 2½ highlanders and some astounding scenery, (opposite) for transport details.
Ethiopian fare and faranji food, such as beef hours), Gonder (US$51, 30 minutes), Bahir contact the local charity Tourism in Ethiopia
stroganoff and chicken curry. Dar (US$61, 1ź hours) and Aksum (US$72, for Sustainable Future Alternatives (TESFA; %0111 YEMREHANNA KRISTOS
Unique Restaurant (mains Birr4-10) Opposite 40 minutes). 140583; www.community-tourism-ethiopia.com), which Despite Yemrehanna Kristos (admission Birr50)
the Asheton Hotel, this dark and under- Overland, the best approach is currently offers rewarding treks south of Lalibela. being one of Ethiopia s best preserved late-
stated little restaurant, serving cheap and from Woldia via Gashema. Gashema can TESFA s goal is to work in partnership Aksumite buildings, only 15 or so people
tasty Ethiopian dishes, has received rave also be reached from the west but transport with local communities to enable them to reward themselves with a visit each week. A
reviews from a number of readers. is sporadic at best. With your own vehicle generate sustainable improvements in their fact made even more astounding consider-
Blue Lal Hotel (mains Birr7-20) We d heard (or oodles of patience) it s a rewarding jour- livelihood through the development of their ing the church only sits 1½ hours (45km)
this hotel s owner used to live in France, ney to arrive from the north via Adwa, Abi own tourism related enterprises, while also away from Lalibela by 4WD.
so we ordered the quiche Lorraine. Forty- Addi and Sekota. On that note, fuel (out of contributing to the protection of their phys- The church is unusual because it s built
five minutes later we were presented with the barrel) is now available in Lalibela. ical and cultural environments . Save the rather than excavated. Seeing the stepped
an entire behemoth of a pie be warned! Two buses depart daily at 6am for Wol- Children (UK) and the Royal Netherlands exterior façade, created from alternating
After enjoying a fifth of it, our bulging in- dia (Birr25, five to seven hours), with one Embassy have helped fund the project. wood and stone layers, you ll truly come
sides forced us to move on. Small appetite? continuing to Addis Ababa (Birr75, two Treks are typically three days long and to appreciate why so many of Lalibela s
Try the crępes with honey, we hear they re days) after overnighting in Dessie (Birr39, take place along the top of the Mesket Es- rock-hewn churches look like they do. And
great. 8½ to 10 hours). Sometimes there s a direct carpment, which houses caves, rock-hewn knowing that Yemrehanna Kristos may pre-
Roha Hotel (mains Birr20-32) Its dining gallery, bus to Bahir Dar (Birr46, 10 hours). Tick- churches, fascinating columnar basalt out- date Lalibela s churches by up to 80 years,
with massive hangings cascading from the ets are best bought the afternoon before crops and genuine local villages. Because you have before you a virtual blueprint of
ceiling, has to be the flashiest place to eat. travel (after 4pm) when the buses arrive you stay on the escarpment, gradients are greatness.
However, the food usually underperforms. from Woldia. quite low and you ll find the walking is Incredibly, the whole church sits on a
John Cafeteria & Lalibela Restaurant (Map fairly easy. foundation of carefully laid olive-wood
p158; mains Birr7-16) These neighbours share a Getting Around TESFA has two camps in local villages, panels, which float it perfectly above the
kitchen and menu. Birr10 will get you an Most midrange hotels offer airport transfer each currently consisting of two traditional, marshy ground below. The carving and
omelette breakfast with toast, local honey service (from Birr25 to Birr30 one way) to yet comfortable tukuls. Wajela camp sits decoration are exceptional, especially the
and a steaming macchiato. the airport, which is 23km south of town. near an interesting cave complex while Me- cruciform windows and the elaborate nave
Other local restaurants to get your fill: Of the midrange hotels that arrange 4WD quat Maryam teeters near the escarpment ceiling. Conceiving how the massive marble
Dirb Tezara Restaurant (mains Birr8-12) Ethiopian hire to visit the churches outside town (op- edge and offers incredible vistas even the arches were placed so accurately in such
dishes. Popular with small local business crowd. posite), the Seven Olives has the best prices. view from the toilet is inspiring. surrounds is almost harder to grasp than
Megabi Cafeteria (mains Birr4-8) Pleasant thatched Possible trips include Na akuto La ab Treks, including guides, packing mules the construction of Lalibela s churches.
pavilions. Decent tibs. (Birr150), Yemrehanna Kristos (Birr500), and drivers, accommodation, meals (break- Behind the church lies a pile of mummi-
Megenagna Hotel (fasting food Birr5) Locals claim it Geneta Maryam (Birr500) and Bilbala fast, lunch, dinner and the odd snack), tea fied pilgrims (the priests told us there were
serves Lalibela s best fasting food. We were still recovering Chirkos and Yemrehanna Kristos (Birr600 and coffee, cost Birr300 per person per day over 10,000 of them) who d come here to
from our quiche and couldn t confirm these claims. to Birr700). (there are discounts for children). die over the centuries. Most lay exposed
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
164 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Around Lal i bel a www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Dessi e 165
0 400 m
and the expression on one face was truly reign; some even claim King Na akuto La ab rather resembles Yemrehanna Kristos in
DESSIE 0 0.2 miles
shocking. Watch your step walking around lies buried in the chapel. Church treasures design, and many features are Aksumite,
A B
the back of half of the complex we stubbed include parchment and some icons. but its beautiful frescoes, some of hunting
our toe on a partially exposed skull hidden Although the architecture here compares scenes with one-eyed lions, are the main INFORMATION
ACP CompuTech.........................1 B4
beneath the grass floor. pretty poorly with Lalibela, the journey attraction.
Ah-Mu Internet............................2 B4
Commercial Bank & Western
This entirely inspiring and slightly takes you through lovely country. Listen There are many bricked-up tombs in the 1
Union.......................................3 B5
spooky complex sits within a cave roofed out for the francolins witchlike cackle re- church. Bodies buried under the rock are
Dashen Bank................................4 B4
Kana Zegellila Pharmacy...............5 B3
by basalt lava flows. The ugly brick wall at sounding around the valley. said to be preserved forever. The church
Wollo Higher Medical Clinic.........6 A3
the front was built in 1985 to improve the The 1½-hour climb (one way) is quite is little visited, but is worth the long and
SLEEPING
church s security. steep. Many travellers take mules, though steep ascent. Mules are a good idea in the
Ambaras.......................................7 B3
It s also possible to get here by foot or you ll still need to walk over the rockiest dry season.
Fasika Hotel 1..............................8 A4
Fasika Hotel 2..............................9 A3
mule. Both options take about five hours to parts.
Royal Pension............................10 A3
cover the shorter 20km distance. DESSIE
EATING
NA AKUTO LA AB pop 139,936 / elev 2470m
Blue Nile Restaurant.................(see 10)
2
ARBATU ENSESSA Lying 7km from Lalibela, just off the airport Rusty tin roofs and eucalyptus trees carpet Stadium Cafeteria.......................11 B3
Tossa Restaurant........................12 A3
West of Yemrehanna Kristos, around 35km road, is this church (admission Birr20) attributed the hills in Dessie no, the ex-capital of
from Lalibela, is Arbatu Ensessa (admission Birr30). to Lalibela s successor. It s simple but at- the former Wolo province wouldn t win TRANSPORT
Bus Station.................................13 B4
Its a three-quarter monolith church in a tractive (apart from the outer security wall) any beauty contests. However, you may
Ethiopian Airlines........................14 B5
wild, overgrown, but rather beautiful set- and built under a natural cave. It was almost end up spending a night here because it s
To Kayk (28km);
Woldia (75km);
ting. It s thought to have been built by King certainly the site of a much older shrine. a major transport hub for Lalibela, Hayk
Tenta (140km);
Lalibela (250km);
Kaleb in AD 518. Arbatu ensessa means the Empress Zewditu built the ugly inner and Maqdala.
Mekele (343km)
12
four beasts after the four Evangelists, Mat- red-brick building. Some very old stone re-
thew, Mark, Luke and John. ceptacles collect the precious holy water as Information
6
3
it drips from the cave roof. There are several Internet cafés (Birr18 per
BILBILA CHIRKOS The church boasts various treasures said hour), pharmacies, a good health clinic and
7
Close to Arbatu Ensessa is Bilbila Chirkos to have belonged to its founder, including banks (change cash and travellers cheques)
11
(admission Birr30). An interesting three-quarter crosses, crowns, gold-painted drums and an along the main drag. There are pickpockets
10
Municipality
5
9
monolith, it s known particularly for its illuminated Bible. aplenty around the bus station be vigilant.
ancient frescoes. Also attributed to King
8
Kaleb, it s thought to date from AD 523. It s GENETA MARYAM Sleeping & Eating 1
13
a three-minute walk from the road. Near the source of the Tekeze River, 31km Rooms can be in short supply, especially on
Mosque
from Lalibela, lies Geneta Maryam (admission weekends, so call ahead.
2
4
BILBILA GIYORGIS Birr20). It s thought to have been built around Fasika Hotel 2 (%0331 117705; s/d Birr65/95)
4
Lying to the west of Arbatu Ensessa, around 1270 by Yekuno Amlak, who restored the This bright and quiet place has comfort-
32km from Lalibela, Bilbila Giyorgis (admission Solomonic line. With its rectangular shape able rooms with satellite TVs, foam beds
Birr30) is another attributed to King Kaleb. It and 20 massive rectangular pillars that sup- and hot showers.
resembles Bet Abba Libanos in design. port it, Geneta Maryam resembles Lalibela s Fasika Hotel 1 (%0331 112930; d with shared bath-
3
According to tradition, five swarms of Bet Medhane Alem. It s also known for its room Birr30, d Birr50) It offers smaller and darker
bees took up residence shortly after the remarkable 13th-century paintings. rooms than its brother hotel, but is equally 14
church was completed. They still reside and On the western wall, there s a moon- clean and also hosts hot water.
their sacred honey is said to have curative shaped face of Christ, and on the south- Ambaras (%0331 119118; s/d/ste Birr72/88/100)
5
properties, particularly for psychological ern side, very grumpy-looking elephants. This place is past its prime, with 1970s
disorders and skin problems. The priest will Geneta Maryam is about four hours by foot green carpets, dated drapes and dog-eared
let you taste it. It s 20 to 30 minutes walk from Lalibela, or 1½ hours by vehicle. bathrooms. However, it s pretty functional
To Kombolcha & Airport (25km); Debre
up the hill to the church from the road. and has a comfy lounge downstairs with a
Berhan (248km); Addis Ababa (378km)
Mosque
MACHINA MARYAM satellite TV.
ASHETAN MARYAM Two hours walk from Geneta Maryam and Royal Pension (%0331 114939; d Birr25) Up a
Set at 3150m, atop a mountain that rises six hours walk (42km) from Lalibela is the small alley behind the Shell station. The Ethiopian fare is great and you even pay
directly above Lalibela, is this monastery (ad- remote church of Machina Maryam (Emachina rooms at the Royal Pension outshine the local prices! It s 150m north of the Wollo
mission Birr20). Understandably, there are com- Lideta Maryam; admission Birr20), said traditionally exterior, though that isn t saying much! Higher Medical clinic. Ask any local to
manding views in all directions. The local to have been constructed by three virgins While they aren t spotless and bedspreads point it out.
priests believe they re closer to heaven and during the reign of King Gebre Meskel in looks like shag carpets, you do get a typ- Blue Nile Restaurant (mains Birr5-14) Just west
God here, and it s easy to see why. AD 537. ically tidy bathroom. of the Royal Pension, this is another popu-
The monastery s construction is believed The church is constructed under an Tossa Restaurant (mains Birr5-11) This restaur- lar local place. It also serves some faranji
to span Lalibela s and Na akuto La ab s overhanging rock in a natural cave. It ant is the best place to eat in town. The options.
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
166 THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Maqdal a www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT " " Bati 167
Stadium Cafeteria (meals Birr4) It s great for History aside, the 3½-hour hike to or share-taxi (Birr1 to Birr2). It s a quiet near the telecommunications office. The
breakfast. Try the special ful (chickpea Maqdala from Tenta is great and there are and clean spot with a friendly owner and only real nonwoolly reason to stop here is
purée). stunning views of the surrounding country- a range of rooms to choose from. Try the if you re planning on visiting nearby An-
side from the windswept top. You ll need bazana shiro (chickpea purée with meat) in kober.
Getting There & Away to stop at the administration office (h8am- its popular restaurant. The drive from here north to Debre Sina,
Ethiopian Airlines (%0331 112571) flies daily to 12.30pm & 1.30-5pm Mon-Fri) in Ajibara (10km be- Ama Hotel (d with shared bathroom Birr20, d Birr30) which takes you off the Guassa Plateau and
Addis Ababa (US$61, one hour). Flights fore Tenta) to get papers and pick up your is a cheap and simple option close to the down the dramatic Mezezo Escarpment, is
depart from the airport near Kombolcha, compulsory police escort (Birr50). bus station. The rooms with shared fa- unforgettable (watch for gelada baboons).
23km from Dessie. Shared taxis to the air- One bus runs from Dessie to Tenta each cilities are actually much brighter and Eva Hotel (%0116 813607; r Birr100), the pink
port cost Birr10, contract taxis cost Birr80. morning at around 6am (Birr35, five hours) quieter than the more expensive options. palace at the town s entrance from Addis
Buses leave for Addis Ababa (Birr41, and stops long enough in Ajibara for you It s opposite the Kombolcha City Service Ababa, has large spotless rooms with beau-
nine hours, five daily), Lalibela (Birr39, 8½ to sort formalities. There are a couple of complex. tiful and bright bathrooms. New carpets
to 10 hours, one daily), Mekele (Birr41, fleapit hotels in Ajibara and Tenta. With a Harego Lodge (%0335 513767; d Birr60) is the prevent the traditional early morning greet-
nine hours, one daily) and Woldia (Birr12, vehicle, the journey to Tenta is possible in most comfortable option, but only viable ing between warm toes and cold tiles.
3½ hours, three daily). Buses and mini- just under two hours. if you have a vehicle. It s several kilometres Akalu Hotel (%0116 811115; d 40) sits literally
buses also run at least every half-hour to out of town en route to Dessie. and figuratively between Eva and Helen, of-
Kombolcha (Birr3, 30 minutes). HAYK Hikma (snacks Birr1-2) on the piazza and the fering a bit of comfort at cheap prices. We
Lying 28km north of Dessie on a peninsula Sport Cafe (snacks Birr1-2) are the best pastry delved into kai wat (goat in berbere sauce)
MAQDALA is the little town of Hayk, known for its shops. at their reputable restaurant (mains Birr7
Near the tiny village of Tenta, 140km north- monastery and lake. Frequent buses serve Dessie (Birr3, 30 to Birr15); it was served with cheese and
west of Dessie, are the vestiges of Emperor The monastery dates from the mid-13th minutes). One bus leaves daily for Addis was delicious.
Tewodros hilltop fortress. It was here that century and was founded by Abba Iyasus Ababa (Birr38.50, 8½ hours). Helen Hotel (%0116 811204; d with shared bath-
Tewodros (r 1855 68) retreated as his for- Moa. Between the 13th and 15th centur- room Birr20, d Birr40) lies at the opposite end of
midable empire collapsed and where he ies it was among Ethiopia s most impor- BATI town and offers cheap but clean rooms.
took Britons hostage in a last-ditch effort tant monasteries. Today it hosts the oldest The little town of Bati, 41km east of Kom- Yabsera Café (drinks & snacks Birr1-3) will quell
to force Britain s hand in helping him mili- known manuscript to record its own date: bolcha, is known for its large, colourful on-the-road tummy rumbles with coffee,
tarily. Lets just say that when Sir Robert Na- the book of the four gospels produced for Monday market (h9am-3pm), which attracts juice, cakes or pastries. It s next to the bus
pier arrived with 32,000 well-armed men, the monastery between 1280 and 1281. It s up to 10,000 Afar, Oromo and Amharas station.
his last goal was to help Tewodros. open to men only. from all around. Numerous buses/minibuses serve Addis
After such a route and heavy British The lake and its environs, 3km from Bati s market is Ethiopia s largest after Ababa (Birr13/15, 2½ hours). One bus
looting (see the boxed text, below ), it is town, is an excellent spot for birders. Addis Ababa s Merkato. It s interesting leaves daily at 6am for Kombolcha (Birr28,
not surprising that little remains besides At least 15 minibuses or buses (Birr4, and lively (especially around 11am), so seven hours) and Dessie (Birr31, eight
a few remnants strewn across the plateau. one hour) run daily to the village of Hayk. check it out if you re in the area. Look hours). Buses travelling north from Addis
Maqdala is rather a mournful place, per- out for the old gallows (dating from the Ababa also occasionally have seats.
haps still haunted by the unhappy emperor KOMBOLCHA emperor s day). If you re planning to take
who put a gun in his mouth and pulled the pop 100,954 / elev 1850m photos, come armed with Birr1 notes. An ANKOBER
trigger before being captured. The dramatic and curvaceous descent from Ethiopian companion is a good idea to The little town of Ankober lies 40km south-
Dessie to Kombolcha outdoes anything the keep curious children, as well as pickpock- east of Debre Berhan. Right up until the
twin towns have to offer. Kombolcha is less ets, away. late 19th century, when Addis Ababa was
THE LOOTING OF MAQDALA
of a transportation hub than Dessie, but it s At least one bus and 10 to 15 minibuses founded, it was the capital of the Shoan
much less dirty and noisy and has better leave for, and arrive from, Kombolcha daily princes.
After the British troops devastated Tewodros
hotels, making it a more pleasant option to (Birr7 to Birr10, 1ź hours). Set atop a hill 2km from town are the
army and freed the prisoners in 1868, they
break your journey between Addis Ababa ruins of Menelik II s old palace. Though
looted everything from the amulet around
and Lalibela. It s also closer to the airport DEBRE BERHAN little more than a section of wall remains,
the dead emperor s neck to altar slabs, an-
(2km). pop 53,000 / elev 2840m the walk here is a good one and the area
cient manuscripts and processional crosses
Tekle Hotel (%0335 510056; d with shared bathroom Small, yet somehow sprawling, the town of is renowned as a birders haven. It s the
from the nearby church. Amazingly, much of
Birr30, d/tw Birr57/80) is set in pleasant grounds Debre Berhan sits 130km northeast of Addis official home of a very rare endemic bird,
the stolen items remain in British museums
and the rooms come in all different shapes, Ababa. Despite being the 15th- century the Ankober serin. The white-throated seed-
and private collections, despite strong calls
sizes and levels of brightness. They re all capital of Emperor Zara Yaqob and the site eater and yellow-throated seedeater are
from Ethiopian historians for their return.
clean so have a wander and take your pick. of Ahmed Gragn the Left-Handed s slaugh- often seen here too.
The Association of the Return of Ethi-
There s also a decent restaurant. ter of the imperial army, Debre Berhan is Three morning buses run between
opia s Maqdala Treasures (AFROMET; www
Kombolcha Wine Hotel (%0335 512091; tw with most famous for its woollen blankets and Debre Berhan and Ankober (Birr8, two
.afromet.org) continues to fight for the treas-
shared bathroom Birr30, d Birr20-30), like Tekle, is rugs; check them out at the cooperative hours).
ures return, arguing that looting had no basis
about 2km up the hill from the bus sta-
in law and that it was an act of sacrilege.
tion. If you don t want to walk, take a gari
N O R T H E R N E T H I O P I A
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
© Lonely Planet Publications
168 www. l onel ypl anet. com
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