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6. Front

On each side in turn, as for the Back, smooth the materiał horizontally across the upper chest towards the position ot the armhole and up to the shoulder.

Re-pin the Front to the Back, working up the shoulder to the base of the neck.

Mark the linę of each armhole with pins, from the shoulder to the hollow in front of the arm. Trim away the materiał to form the front neck curve, which is deeper than the back neck cun/e. There should be excess materiał here: pinch it on the Centre Front linę and pin a vertical dart, which will be longer and deeper than the Centre Back dart.

5. Back

On each side in tum, smooth the toile horizontally from the Centre linę over the shoulder blade towards the position ot the armhole, then smooth gently upwards to the top ot the shoulder. Re-pin the Back to the Front over the shoulder.

Mark the shape ot each armhole with pins, from the shoulder to the broadest part ot the back.

On each side in turn, smooth the toile up the shoulder towards the base ot the neck, pinning it to the Front in two or three places. If the toile is dragging at the front, snip into the edge under the chin to free it. Trim away the materiał at the back ot the neck to form a shallow curve. There should be a little excess width here: pinch it on the Centre Back linę and pin a short vertical dart.

7. Side seams and main vertical darts

At waist level, move in the pins slightly at the sides to puli the toile in closer. Still at waist level, pinch the surplus materiał on the Centre Back linę and pin, then do the same on the Centre Front linę.

Work up from the waist, pinning the two side seams and the two vertical darts on the Centre Front and Centre Back lines. Stop forming the side seams when the materiał starts to drag under the arms.

Below the waist, pin the side seams and darts over the hips, down to the lower edge of the toile. Re-pin morę tightly at waist level, so that the materiał drags into horizontal wrinkles.

The Centre Back dart will normally reach from the middle of the back to the buttocks. The Centre Front dart may reach from the chest to below the waist on a young man; on an older man it will start from a Iow waist level (below the belly) and reach to the edge of the toile.

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