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11. Codpiece and gusset
The codpiece is there to enclose and support the genitals, and cover the front opening.
Gusset - This provides a base to attach the codpiece to the hose. Cut a strip on the bias, 3-5 cmwideand 10-15 cm long, plus seam allowances. Ease it into the breech seam when making up the hose, with the back end tapering to B and the front endfinishing at A just under the genitals (Fig 10). Codpiece pattern - The codpiece is madę in two halves with a curved CF seam, and lined. Scalę up the pattern, adding seam allowances, and try it out first in calico. Check it doesn't reach above the top edge of the hose.
Making up - Cut the pattern twice in the outer fabric, then again in the lining. Sew the CF seams of each, then tum in all the raw edges and stab stitch outer and lining together (PI 1). Work pairs of eyelets in the top corners.
12. Making up Fig 8
Madę up hose, with breech lining and codpiece gusset in place. Work eyelets (Methods, Fig 16) as follows:
On the top edge, the usual nine pairs to tie the hose to the doublet
On either side of the front opening a vertical pair (ifneeded) to fasten the front of the hose.
Attaching the codpiece - Tack and stitch it in place across the base of the opening so that it overlaps AA on the outside. Position the horizontal eyelets on the hose to secure the top corners.
CB
113
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