tmta2

Fitted gown

31. Sleeve for Fig 28

This sleeve is adapted from the Błock to give a tight fit. It has a wrist opening, fastened by hook and eye, and a separate cuff. It is best to try out the fit in calico before cutting the cloth.

Measure the gown armhole. Tracę the sleeve Błock. Add any increase needed on the sleeve head at BP on the upper curve. Nonę was required here. Rule a straight upper seam linę from BP to wrist and a new SG parallel to it.

Reduce the sleeve width from BP to wrist along the lower seam linę, as shown, referring to the measurements in Blocks, Fig 3. Try out the fit on the wearer in calico and adjust if necessary. Draw the finał pattern, marking an opening on the seam at A, 10-15 cm from the wrist.

Plan the cuff pattern using the 'slash and flarę' method (Blocks, Fig 26) with the wrist edge of the sleeve as a guide. Make the cuff 10-15 cm deep and not too flared. Cut the cuff in the outer fabric, interlining, and lining or facing. Make it up and attach it to the wrist edge, with its side edges either caught together at the balance point B, or left open (p. 52).

28. Late medieval fitted gown, later 15th century

This fashionable gown fits the body to hip level, worn over the tight kirtle (Kirtles, Fig 7). To achieve this look it is planned like a kirtle or cotehardie. The belt is worn lower to emphasise the new look. The edge-to-edge front opening is laced to hip level through concealed metal rings (Methods, Fig 17c). The collan often of fur, dips below the neckline at the front. The gown was sometimes worn without a collar. The tight sleeves with conical cuffs are shown in Fig 31.

20 cm

162