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7. Planning your working pattern

Follow the instructions for the garment, where key sections are highlighted by a tint. Remember that the increases and other alterations to Blocks shown were madę for the two models used throughout. Use smaller adjustments for children and larger ones for larger adults. Women with over 110 cm (43 in) bust and men over 120 cm (47 in) chest reąuire proportionately greater alterations: it would be wiser to avoid tightly fitted styles for these larger sizes.

For garments with skirts check that the side seams are of equal length and at the same angle to the construction linę on Back and Front. Add balance points where shown.

Seam allowances - These are included in the dimensions for simpler garments madę without a Błock.

Pattern diagrams planned from a Błock are shown throughout without seam allowances. You can either draw seam allowances round each pattern piece or leave the patterns net and mark the seam allowances onto the materiał before cutting. The standard allowance is 1.5 cm, but allow extra if you are unsure of the fit. Edges with openings and fastenings may need morę, and hems should have 5 cm allowance. Notę on each piece whether seam allowances are included.

8.    Materials

Read the Materials section before buying fabrics, fastenings and trimmings. For patterned fabrics allow enough length for repeats, and for matching the design of left and right halves and sleeves.

9.    Cutting

Garments madę from the Błock are usually cut from four separate panels, even if illustrated on the fabric fold. The four seams will help achieve a proper fit.

Napped fabrics - ensure the nap runs in the same direction on both halves of Front and Back. Patterned fabrics - match the design for left and right halves, and if possible for the sleeves. Match the Straight Grain (SG) of the pattern to the SG of the fabric.

Lining - cut the lining on the same grain as the outer fabric.

10.    Making up

Identify each pattern piece on the back. Transfer balance points and other marks. Secure longer bias edges on a stay band. A summary of the order of working is given in Methods, p. 46. Specific directions are included with garment patterns.

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