356 (22)

329

FingerRings

madę from metal of a similar composition, c. 55% gold, debased with silver and copper, but here in the ratio of 2:1 rather than 1:1.

A gold ring with a slightly larger hoop also has a transverse oval bezel but it has the added refine-ment of moulded shoulders and is set with a sapphire rather than a semi-precious gem (no. 1614, fig 215). Qualitative XRF analysis indicated that the metal is 75% to 85% pure gold. A similar finger ring set with a sapphire in the Waterton collection (Oman 1930A, 67 no. 258, pl XI) has a larger cabochon and its shoulders are chased with leaves, and so it would have been morę expen-sive.

A fifth gold ring has a tiny bezel, which was originally set with two Stones (no. 1611, fig 215). A green emerald cabochon remains in position, while the missing stone, which would have been of a contrasting colour, probably red or purple, has left traces of the original cement at the base of the collet. The hoop and bezel were madę from a metal of a similar composition, c.44% gold, debased with equal proportions of silver and copper.

That three of the gold finger rings are set with smali cabochon gamets indicates their relative cheapness and popularity. Two further examples in the Waterton collection similarly have plain settings, one semi-circular and the other hex-agonal, reflecting the natural outline of each cabochon (Oman 1930A, 67 nos. 256-257, pl XI). Such finger rings are rarely mentioned in the wills of 14th-century Londoners where bequests single out gold finger rings set with precious gem-stones, for example a diamond, ruby, or sapphire and pearls (Cal Wills 1889, 506 & 653; Cal Wills 1890, 36 & 97). Consequently, it is only by considering all the available sources of informa-tion that a clearer understanding of what jewel-lery was wom in medieval London will emerge.

Copper and copper alloy

1615 BIG82 acc. no. 3284 (context 6507)

ceramic phase 6 fig 216

Gunmetal (AML); hoop and bezel cast in one piece; slender hoop with moulded shoulders and a cable-pattemed projection on each side; rectangular bezel originally set with an oval glass cabochon secured with a white lime-based cement (AML). (The glass cabochon is now separate from its setting). Extemal d 20mm; intemal d 18mm; 1 of bezel 7mm.

1616    SWA81 512 (2027) 9 fig 216

Bronze (AML); part of slender hoop, broken on either side of bezel; rectangular bezel with a rectangular setting containing a white cement, probably calcium carbonate (AML) with quartz inclusions, stone missing;

1 of bezel 9mm.

1617    SWA81 2500 (unstratified) fig 216 Copper (AML); slender hoop; shallow rectangular bezel with a rectangular setting containing a yellowish-white cement, probably calcium carbonate (AML), stone missing. Extemal d 19mm; intemal d 17mm; 1 of bezel 6mm.

1618 SWA81 2092 (2020) 9 fig 216 & colour pl 12A

Brass (AML); hollow round-sectioned hoop soldered to the edge of a collet set with an opaque, press-moulded glass cameo secured with a lead/tin solder (AML). The glass cameo is blue and white with localised streaks of red. It is decorated with a creature having a head, six legs and a taił, probably either a scorpion or crab. Extemal d c.l7mm; intemal d 15mm; d of bezel 12mm.

1619 BWB83 2664 (330) 11 fig 216

Brass (AML); hollow round-sectioned hoop soldered to bezel with a lead/tin solder; octagonal bezel with four claws, stone missing but traces of the cement survive. Extemal d 20mm; intemal d 17mm; 1 of bezel lOmm.

1620    SWA81 383 (935 - recently redeposited) fig 216

Brass (AML); hollow round-sectioned hoop soldered to a fiat piąte; cabochon of green glass (MH) set withm a collet. Extemal d 21mm; intemal d 18mm; d of bezel 6mm.

Lead

1621    BWB83 2769 (361) 11 fig 216

Lead (AML); fiat hoop with an open-backed rectangular bezel cut into it, stone missing. Extemal d 22mm; intemal d 19mm; 1 of bezel 6mm.

It can be assumed that most finger rings madę from base metal imitated those of precious metal. Indeed, some can be paralleled, including the earliest decorative finger ring with a bezel in this study which was recovered from a late 12th-century deposit (no. 1615, fig 216). It was cast in one piece and has two cable-pattemed projections on the outside of the hoop in addition to moulded shoulders. The rectangular bezel was set with a glass cabochon cemented with calcium cabonate. A copper-alloy ring of similar form, but with a