English Garden Bench

An elegant yet traditional piece, this English garden bench features design modifications that make it a
good project for varying levels of woodworking expertise. For instance, a lot of furniture uses the
mortise and tenon technique, which can be difficult, and requires expensive and specialized tools and
equipment. This project uses lap joints and doweling instead to simplify the process.

what you’ll need

materials

• 8 pcs. 2" x 4" x 8' frame and seat boards
• 1 pc. 2" x 6" x 10' back and arms
• 1 pc. 2" x 6" x 12' rear legs
• 2 pcs. 1" x 6" x 5' back slats
• 1/2" hardwood dowel 4ft length: 2624-271
• 3/8" hardwood dowel 4 ft: 2624-235
• 2-1/2" deck screws 2182-989
• 1-1/2" galvanized finishing nails 2134-826
• waterproof glue 2020-850/869
• stain or wood sealer CWF-UV clear 1877-838
• 4 wooden buttons to cover 1/2" drilled holes

8296-500

Note:

The true measurement of 2" x 4" stock

is actually 1-1/2" x 3-1/2".

tools

• compound mitre saw or circular saw 1265-

222

• building square 1070-067/085
• drill, bits, #8 countersink and driver 1227-

915

• 1/2" wood boring spur bit 1214-377
• 3/8" wood boring spur bit 1214-359

1. Translate and transpose the patterns for the
front and back legs, arms, top back rail, and seat
supports onto the appropriate stock.

2. Cut out the pieces required using a jigsaw for
the curved cuts.The upper back rail, arms, and
back legs are constructed from 2" x 6" material,
and the seat supports, front legs, seat rail and
lower back rail are constructed from 2"x 4"
stock.The back slats are constructed from 1" x 6"
stock. Save the cutout corners from the arms and
back for the arm support and front leg details.

Tip:

Leave an extra 1-1/2" of material at either

end of the top rail for accurate fitting later.

3. The lower and upper back rails are dadoed to
receive the seat slats. Set the dado cut to 1/2" in
depth, and to the width of the slat material. In our
bench, the width was 9/16". The dado cut runs
down the center of the edge of the stock.

4. The 2 pieces forming the rear legs are now
fastened together using 2-1/2" deck screws and
carpenter's waterproof glue, and left clamped for
24 hours. Be sure to face the notched pieces to
inside on each pair. Final finishing and sanding of
the matched pairs of legs takes place after the
clamps are removed.

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6. Clamp the arm pieces together for ease and
uniformity when sanding the edges. The upper
edges of the arms, except where they contact the
back support, are routed at this time.

7. Attach the 2-1/2" x 4-1/2" lower back rail, dado
edge up, into the appropriate back leg notches
using 2-1/2" deck screws and glue. Check to
ensure the two sections are square to each other.

8. Similarly, insert the side seat supports and the
side rungs into the appropriate notches at a 90
degree angle to the back seat support, using
clamps, 2-1/2" decks screws and glue.

9. Set and screw the front legs to the side seat
supports and bottom rail pieces using 2-1/2" deck
screws and glue. Check again to ensure the
sections are square to each other. Allow the
clamped and glued sections to set for 24 hours.

10. Glue and set the front seat rail into the
appropriate slot, using 2-1/2" deck screws. Check
again for square.

11. Find the centre point of the bench, and fasten
the centre seat support to the frame with 2-1/2"
deck screws and glue.

12. Drill 1/2" holes approximately 4-1/2" deep
through the back legs into the side seat supports
as indicated in the diagram. Insert a 1/2"
hardwood dowel 4-1/4" in length with a little glue,
and set the dowel slightly to allow for the a
1/2"wooden button to cover the drilled holes.

13. The back slats are now set into the dado of the
2" x 4" bottom back seat rail, at 2-1/2"
intervals.These can be adjusted as you proceed.

14. Check the inside measurement between the
back seat rails for accuracy. You can now
accurately cut the upper rail piece to size, taking
equal amounts from either end.

15. Place the upper rail over the upper ends of the
slats, beginning at one end, and easing the slats
into the dado of the upper rail. A second pair of
hands can be useful here in order to keep one end
of the upper rail secure as you work your way
along the slats to the other end. Be sure the slats
are completely seated in the dado before
proceeding.

• clamps 1022-930-985
• hammer 1030-556
• measuring tape 1048-832
• jigsaw 1268-666/700
• sander, belt or orbital 1262-333/859
• router, 1258-347 and rounding-over or ogee

bit (optional) 1215-189

• routing flush trim bit (optional) 1288-332
• 7" dado blade 1346-056

5. The front legs are assembled and clamped
similarly, as indicated on the diagram. Use a
spacer to ensure proper seating for the seat rail.
This will form the notch to receive and support the
front seat rail.

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16. The 2-1/2" spacers can no"e inserted between the straight slats on the upper and lower rails, and
secured with a small amount of glue.The remaining spacers are cut to appropriate lengths and inserted
similarly. Spacers are used to help secure the seat slats, and to prevent water and debris from collecting
in the exposed dado.

17. Drill 1/2" holes, approximately 4-1/2" in depth, through the back leg assemblies, and into the top seat
rail as indicated in the diagram. Insert lengths of 1/2" dowel 4" in length into each hole with a little glue,
and set the dowel slightly below the surface. Use a little glue on a 1/2" wooden cap to cover the holes.

18. At either end of the front seat board cut a notch 3" x 3-1/4" in order to fit the board around the front
legs of the bench. Install the seat boards, leaving approximately 1/2" between them. Fasten at either end
and in the center with 2-1/2" deck screws.

19. Secure the arms with 3/8" dowel at the back, and a 1-1/2" deck screw at the front. Hide the front
screw by inserting it from below, angling through the front leg and up into the under side of the arm.The
front arm supports are held in place with glue and a couple of 1-1/2" finishing nails. Install the decorative
front seat supports in the same way. The arm and seat corner details can be cut from material saved from
the stock remaining from the cutting out of the arms.

20. The screw holes may be filled with a waterproof wood filler. Sand the assembled bench, and finish
with an exterior finish of your choice. Cedar may be left to weather naturally to a grey color.

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