"The younger generation is very different than the older generation since on the whole there is a division of not just one but of two generations. … There are differences of upbringing because 50 years of communist rule has very definitely left a mark on life and on the sort of education they received for example ... Age and educational differences exist but it is more important that we have the same language and broadly speaking the same culture."
WW2 refugee
The Polish communities in London have developed since the second world war. According to the 1991 Census 21,823 residents of Greater London were born in Poland. By far the largest groups are found in the West and North West London boroughs: Hammersmith, Westminster, Wandsworth, Kensington, Ealing, Brent and Barnet. This figure only accounts for the Poles born in Poland but if you add on those of Polish descent the number would increase dramatically. In 2005, 49,000 Poles migrated to the UK though it's too soon to see what patterns they will form in the city.
In London the contribution of Poles to the community has been recognised by two boroughs (Ealing and Wandsworth) incorporating the Polish Eagle into the insignia on the mayoral chain.
The pace of life in Poland is much slower than in London, with the exception perhaps of the larger cities like Warsaw, Gdansk and Krakow, and the lifestyle is very different. The Poles are a sociable nation who will always welcome a stranger to their house. Although they enjoy going to cafes, cinema, theatre, etc, Poles tend to spend more time in each other's houses. For new arrivals London can be a very daunting place.
“I cannot imagine what it must be like for a somebody who comes from a little village in Eastern Poland who has only ever before travelled to the nearest small town of about 8,000 population who gets on a bus and eventually gets off at Victoria station. It's unimaginable what sort of a shock that must be.”
2nd generation Pole
Clubs and Cultural Activities
Established in 1942, the Polish Social & Cultural Association (POSK) in Hammersmith is perhaps the best and most well known place to learn more about Polish culture. It welcomes Poles and non-Poles alike to its facilities which include a café, the Lowiczanka restaurant, book shop, theatre, cinema and nightclub. It is home to the largest Polish library outside of Poland, a university and a variety of Polish organisations, including the Federation of Poles in Great Britain.
During the post-war Communist regime, émigré writings were smuggled from POSK back into Poland, and it stood in opposition to the embassy's `official' Polish presence in London. Since the fall of the Communist government, the relationship has changed, and the two organisations work together.
The Polish Cultural Institute is linked to the Polish Ministry of Foreign Affairs and sits next door to the Polish Embassy in central London. Its main aim is to bring contemporary Polish culture to a broader British audience through art, theatre, music, literature and language classes The archive and library has a large range of books, magazines, cds and films covering Polish cultural heritage. It organises the annual Polish Film Festival in London which usually takes place in March or April in various venues including the Riverside Studios.
Local Polish community clubs exist across London. The White Eagle Club has been in Balham since the 1950s. It's traditional Saturday night `Zabawa' (dance) has been a draw for Poles from all over London for many years. Steeped in nostalgia, a recent refurbishment has made it more attractive to the younger Poles. One of its busiest times is Sunday afternoon after mass when crowds of Poles spill across the road from the Polish Catholic Church; but throughout the week it offers dance classes and activities for all ages.
The Catholic Church
Despite almost 50 years of communist regime, Poland remains 97% Catholic. In the post-war period, the Poles created their own parishes and built their own churches within their new communities and these became an important social as well as religious point of contact. The original priests were often ex-army chaplains. Up until 2004 the congregations were steadily becoming more elderly, but the new Poles are young and bring new life to the church. The Polish Catholic Mission for England and Wales has been in existence since the end of the Second World War and now recognises 83 Polish communities with 163 centres where mass is celebrated. Some priests have to drive from one church to another to meet the demand so now priests are being encouraged to come here from Poland. Just like the earlier refugees, many of the new arrivals are alone and seek the familiarity of the church and presence of fellow Poles.
There are 12 Polish Parishes in London and many churches have increased the number of masses to cater for the growing congregations. Kosciol Matki Boskiej Czestochowskiej in Islington, Kosciol Chrystusa Krola in Balham, Kosciol Sw. Andrzeja Boboli in Hammersmith and Kosciol NMP Matki Kosciola in Ealing are perhaps the most popular in London.
Polish Saturday Schools
The Polish Educational Society manage the Polish Saturday Schools which help people of Polish background understand family culture, develop pride in Polish history, as well providing an opportunity to pass exams at GCSE and A level in Polish Language.
More recently, teachers are being brought over from Poland to teach in them to maintain a `fresher' spirit of Poland.
This is an important development because many of the `new' Poles consider the older Poles to be stuck in a `time warp' not just because of a slightly nostalgic view of old Poland but also because language constantly changes. Many second and third generation Poles who have been brought up through the Saturday schools talk of the language differences when they go to Poland - cousins laugh not only at their accents but at their use of antiquated words.
There are approximately 60 schools across the UK, 10 of which are in London (Balham, Chiswick, Brockley, Devonia, Ealing, Fulham, Putney, Ilford, Croydon, and Willesden): one of the biggest being in Ealing with approximately 420 pupils in 23 classes. Importantly the schools are a mix of second and third generation Poles alongside new arrivals and there are often waiting lists to join the schools.
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Dance
There are a number of Polish traditional folkdance clubs in London. Like the Saturday schools, they offer a way of keeping alive traditional customs of different regions of Poland through dance, song and costume.
The Karolinka group based in Norwood was set up in 1978 by Maura Kutereba and George Pockert (a musician). Maura wanted to ensure that her own children had a sense of their heritage and identity which could be lost by living in another country. The group is now run by Maura's daughter, Jolanta Kotureba. Maura has strong links with Poland and the group peform internationally.
"Maybe one of the biggest things for me is, after inviting instructors form Poland to work with our group, and going to Poland to be taught by good teachers, I was finally invited myself by a Polish dance group to do a piece of choreography for them last year. That's mind blowing...it all turns around."
Jolanta Kutereba, Karolinka
On the whole it is, and always has been, second (or third) generation Poles who attend; but people bring their boyfriends/girlfriends so there is a mix of nationalities. The time spent in the group for a member is all consuming and the friendships formed are long lasting - to the extent that several people have met and married through the group. There are some new arrival Poles but these traditions are not necessarily part of many young Poles lives and the groups in England have an important balancing role in keeping these traditions alive whilst moving on from a nostalgic view of Poland.
Jolanta is one of many second generation Poles who maintains Polish culture here: she grew up in England learning Polish, aware of her Polish heritage and making family visits to Poland, even working there for a year:
"I definitely feel Polish but I do not claim to be a Pole and I try to stay in touch with a developing Poland rather than a romantic Poland that promoted folklore and where you could buy cheap things once. Secretly I wish I worked there because my biggest strength is being able to teach a Polish dance group. Here I do it voluntarily but in Poland it would be my main profession … but I wonder if I am not guilty of romanticising and thinking that life would be better for me professionally over there, after all, look at all the Poles coming here to find work and a better way of life."
Jolanta Kutereba, Karolinka
Food
For a taste of Polish culture there is no shortage in London with bars, restaurants and delicatessens all across the capital. They have been here since the 1940s.
Until recently Polish imports were found only in a few specialist Polish shops. Prima in West Kensington opened in 1947 and despite several owners remains in Polish hands. The current owners also run Krystyna which supplies Polish speciality cakes and breads to shops and restaurants. But now signs for Polish food are appearing at many corner shops, new speciality shops are opening and even the supermarkets are keen to exploit the new market. Basic Polish items include barszcz (beetroot soup), meatballs, golabki (stuff cabbage), pierogi (small stuffed dumplings), pickled vegetables, sausages and sauerkraut, not too mention sernik (baked cheesecake), makowiec (poppyseed cake) and paczki (doughnuts). Supermarkets are expected to develop Polish ready meals in the future to try to compete with specialist delicatessens. Alongside the popular brands from Poland and other Eastern European countries, Polish run companies in the UK are also meeting the demand, eg Polish bakeries.
Poles and pubs and clubs offering Polish evenings, particularly around Shepherds Bush, are also becoming a regular feature. Speciality Polish bars serving some food are also appearing to counter the more traditional and somewhat sombre atmosphere of the original Polish restaurants. Na Zdrowie in Holborn is managed by an Australian, John Clark, who was encouraged by Polish friends to open a more modern and informal Polish venue. It's bewildering selection of vodkas means it's as good a place as any to get a taste of Poland.
The post-war Polish community clubs all had their own restaurants. The first Polish restaurant in London dates back to 1947 and located in South Kensington it was a popular haunt of the Polish Government in Exile if they weren't eating at the Ognisko Polskie up the road. The original owner, Tadeusz Dakowski , had been a restaurateur in pre-war Warsaw. Daquise remains a nostalgic emblem of a bygone era with traditional dishes, such as bigos, kielbasa and pierogi. The Patio in Shepherds Bush is one of the most popular Polish restaurants in London. The current manager, Ewa Michalik, came to London in the 1970s to visit an uncle and remained. Here, as in other restaurants, like Wodka in Fulham , there is a more modern view of Polish cuisine and a drive to make it lighter and more creative.
This happened at the same time in London and Poland where until recently communist era restrictions meant restaurants had to serve government-set menus. There's also the downright quirky: L'Autre, off Piccadilly, was originally opened by a French-Canadian-Pole and serves Polish and Mexican specialities simply because the Mexican Embassy round the corner loaned them a chef for awhile!
Cultural Exchange
Despite the connections through the Catholic church or Saturday schools, the new and old generations of Polish migrants tend not to mix: there are differences in language, generation, attitudes and aspirations. There are many young Poles in London who are studying, working and enjoying life, and for whom the return to Poland would also contain an element of `settling down' which they are not yet ready to do. They are open to the possibilities and opportunities that may arise here: how long or indeed whether they stay may be more down to forming relationships and careers than being unable to return.
And the exchange is happening both ways for it is now easier than ever to visit Poland.
In the past the Poles longed to return to Poland and it was often impossible, difficult and expensive. Now you can fly or take a coach to all major cities in Poland for very little. These cheap fares are good for new arrival Poles but also encourage the British with or without a Polish connection to visit the country and learn more about Polish culture. Tourism is developing particularly in the area of and health and spa resorts and Polish travel agents, often set up by Poles coming here in the 1980s/90s, are flourishing.
Hen and stag parties are also popular but the Poles are trying to avoid the yob problems of Prague and Dublin, by organising these celebrations around activities such as extreme sports or paintball.
Another growth industry in London are language schools serving not only new Poles wishing to improve their English but also catering for the growing number of English/Europeans marrying Poles who want to communicate with in-laws in Poland and possibly even move there.
Whenever they arrived here, the Polish legacy is here to stay and is undoubtedly having an important impact on the life and cultural mix of London.