Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: lightweight fabrics of natural or blended fibers.
You will need: shell fabric, lining (you can use shell fabric for lining pieces), invisible zipper tape, fusible interfacing.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell Fabric:
1. Center Back
2 pieces
2. Side Back
2 pieces
3. Back Tie
4 pieces
4. Top Front Insert
2 pieces
5. Middle Front Insert
2 pieces
6. Bottom Front Insert
2 pieces
7. Inside Cup
2 pieces
8. Outside Cup
2 pieces
9. Side Front
2 pieces
10. Shoulder Strap
4 pieces
11. Front Skirt
1 piece
12. Back Skirt
1 piece
Lining:
1. Center Back
2 pieces
2. Side Back
2 pieces
3. Top Front Insert
2 pieces
4. Middle Front Insert
2 pieces
5. Bottom Front Insert
2 pieces
6. Inside Cup
2 pieces
7. Outside Cup
2 pieces
8. Side Front
2 pieces
Instructions:
1. Reinforce all Cup parts with fusible interfacing.
2. Sew Outside and Inside Cup pieces together. Serge seam allowances, press towards center.
3. Sew Middle Front Insert to the Top and Bottom Front Inserts. Serge seam allowances, press towards Middle Insert.
4. Sew Front Insertsł unit to the Side Front. Serge seam allowances; press towards center front.
5. Sew Side Back to Front. Serge seam allowances, press towards Back.
6. Sew Cup unit to the assembled top unit. Serge allowances, press towards Cup.
7. Sew center front seam. Serge seam allowances, press.
8. Assemble lining pieces in a similar manner.
9. Baste and sew invisible zipper into the center back seam.
10. Line up Center Back piece with lining of Center Back face-to-face, pin or baste. Turn under lining around zipper closure, 0.5 cm (3/16") off the zipper, pin to the neckline edge of dress. Sew top of dress to lining at top edge. Understitch the seam. Turn the lining to the wrong side, hand-sew to the zipper tape.
11. Line up Back Tie pieces face-to-face and stitch together at three sides (two long, one short). Turn out the Ties, press.
12. Sew Back Ties and Center Back piece to the Side Back. Serge seam allowances, press towards side seam.
13. Line up Shoulder Strap pieces face-to-face, stitch around at three sides. Turn out and press Shoulder Strap. Sew Shoulder Strap to the Cup.
14. Turn Shoulder Straps, Back Ties and Center Back to the face side, pin to keep in place. Place lining over the top of shell, so that the tops and face-to-face. Stitch lining to shell at three sides: Center and Side Back, and along the top edge. Clip allowances; turn out lining to the wrong side, press the top edge.
15. Assemble pieces of skirt. Serge seam allowances, press towards Back.
16. Sew Top to Skirt. Serge seam allowance, press towards skirt.
17. Serge bottom edge of the dress, turn under hem allowance and topstitch at 0,5 cm (3/16") from the bottom edge.
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