Hi everyone,
My posting of the S1r "transformer" pdf, and more recent posting of the S1r MegaTran
(my version of S1r's unit as upscaled to avoid overheating issues), were done by me as an
attempt to get as many people as possible to build and test the exact design duplication of
S1r's nail core coil, and thus prove beyond any doubt whether or not it works. Earlier
attempts by others to detail the "transformer" windings and connections (most notably the
XboxHacker diagram
a4a1d6e4bb17a7e3.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Public/Water%20Fuel/coil%7C_setup.pn
g
and Alex Petty's later analysis
were close, but both had the connections of the third
coil reversed from what S1r's teardown video revealed. I didn't want to see people
building the S1r "transformer" in a manner not consistent with the actual build, as that
would be reason for S1r to say that their tests proved nothing since the construction was
incorrect. Jetijs was the first to build and test the "transformer" based upon my pdf
analysis document, and he had no positive result. I built and tested both the original and
the upscaled MegaTran unit, and neither gave positive results when hooked up as S1r
suggested. Many others have now reported that they also failed to achieve any positive
results using the design. Okay, so does that prove that S1r's videos were a hoax? No,
absolutely not. It only proves that S1r's "transformer" did not do what we thought it
would do when hooked up as S1r suggested. His suggested hookup was based upon
attempting to provide the least costly method possible for achieving the effect that we all
want to reproduce, and actually his thoughts about utilizing constant current usage
devices that are already being used anyways (radio, blower fan, lights, etc.), makes a lot
of sense. If you read through this document carefully, I believe that the facts as explained
herein will not only make a lot of sense to everyone, but will also show that S1r's
YouTube videos were probably the real thing.
I'm familiar with coils and transformers of many different types, but wondered, from the
getgo, how S1r's unit could really work. There have been so many questions in my mind,
and from others, about the S1r "transformer," and what that really did (if anything) in the
circuit used by S1r to run his 18hp B&S generator engine on water, that I decided to go
back to his Video#1, and make as thorough an analysis of the hookups as was possible,
and I did learn a lot from doing that. The video moves around quite a bit, so is in and out
of focus often, but there are frames I found that briefly do show the actual connections
(external to the tin can that the "transformer was inside of). I just kept clicking the
play/pause button to advance very slowly and find what I was looking for. Here's what I
found:
1.) The spark plug has a brown wire connected to its base.
2.) The spark plug tip has two wires - a large white wire (perhaps 10 gauge) that leads to
the tin "transformer" enclosure, and would be connected inside to the bare copper lead
output from the 5 turn coil. The other wire at the tip is a black wire of similar size, but
heads off in the direction of the battery. It would not be connected to the negative
terminal of the battery, of course, as the jumper cable from the battery shows that the
battery negative is grounded to the engine block, while the jumper cable positive clamp is
used by the assistant to complete the positive connection at the starter. With the black
wire running off the plug tip, down to the ground, and through the grass, it is impossible
to see where the other end actually terminates. It is only logical, though, to assume that it
is attached to a positive, low voltage, high amperage source.
3.) The high voltage (HV) output from the ignition coil goes into the tin enclosure, and
would of course be connected to the input lead of the 5 turn coil. Okay, so let's say we
can assume the 5 turn coil is definitely connected, and the HV passes through it and on to
the spark plug tip. Now what about the other connections inside the tin?
4.) There are only three wires coming out of the tin: the large HV spark wire from the
ignition coil, the white wire connected to the plug tip, and a brown wire. Hmmm,
:thinking: There should be 4 wires, according to Sir's hookup diagram, from his photo of
the transformer:
So the hookup inside the tin container
cannot be as S1r suggests. He suggests that one lead should come out of the tin and go to
the battery positive terminal, while the 4th lead goes to engine ground through a constant
current usage device such as a 60 watt lamp.
5.) Here's where it gets interesting. The brown wire, running out of the tin enclosure,
appears at first glance to be the same wire connected to the base of the spark plug, and
that would seem correct according to S1r's photo, minus a 60 watt lamp of course. So
what is the purpose of the brown wire?
6.) Upon close examination, I was able to see that the brown wire does not run directly
from the tin container to the spark plug base. While they are the same size and brown
color, they are actually two separate wires which are divided off from a two-conductor
cord. That can clearly be seen if you stop Video 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb3d_hf7R10
at 0:50 on the timer. That cord runs
over to the inverter, and is plugged into the inverter's 110V AC outlet. Okay, so one AC
lead from the inverter goes to the plug base, and the other goes into the tin container, to
an unknown connection point.
7.) Now what about the inverter? It appears that S1r intended to use it for the setup, but
he later said that it wasn't actually connected. And if you follow the inverter-to-battery
cables over to the battery, you see that the cable clamps are both lying on the ground
there, at 1:08 and 1:09 elapsed time in the video. So, no AC current was sent through the
brown wires. The only connection, provided at the inverter's AC plug, would be to the
secondary coil winding inside the inverter. That winding, and the long length of the dual
conductor brown cord, would only add resistance between the spark plug base, and
whatever the brown lead is connected to inside the tin. So if the inverter isn't doing
anything, and the 2nd and third coil windings of S1r's "transformer" are not completing a
circuit, then where does the low voltage, high current enhancement come from?
8.) The low V, high A current actually comes from a battery charger hooked up to the
old, yellow battery. The charger [U]is[/U] connected, and you can hear the buzz from it
being turned on at 1:32 of the video. The charger is an older Schauer model which has
two output rates - one for charging at 10 amps, and another for starting an engine at 50
amps. You can't see the charger at the time he switches it on, so the actual amp rate he
used is unknown, but is either 10 or 50 amps. It is interesting to note that Gotoluc says
you should have 10 amps or more when using his bridge rectifier circuit for a DC low
voltage, high current enhancement, and Capacitor 70 actually uses a 50 amp rectifier.
Perhaps S1r was operating the charger at 50 amps, and this would explain why the yellow
battery was damaged, and needed to be replaced by a new battery for the second video,
since S1r was not using any protective device that could have prevented the battery
damage. How, might you ask, was the LV, high current source added in to the spark
circuit? As we know from watching Video 1, the charger is connected to the battery, and
there is a negative jumper cable leading to a ground on the engine block. This effectively
introduces the negative of the charger's LV, high amp circuit to the base of the spark
plug, which is also ground connected. The positive connection, at the tip of the spark
plug, comes through the black wire that was mentioned in #2 above.
9.) So you do have a constant current, LV, high amp potential applied to the spark plug,
only not in the method suggested by S1r in his explanation of the "transformer" outputs.
And when the HV pulse from the ignition coil passes through the 5 turn coil of the
"transformer," and jumps the gap of the spark plug, the LV, High current from the
charger follows it and enhances the spark. So then, what does the "transformer" actually
do, if anything at all?
10.) If hooked up as S1r suggests, and if made as S1r made it, perhaps about 5 amps
would be going through the "second coil" and "third coil" when initially activated, which
really isn't enough draw according to Gotoluc or Capacitor70 to achieve the desired
effect. Also, the wire heats up and causes greater resistance in the windings, and would
get very hot - eventually burning off the insulation. So anyone experimenting with the
nail core "transformer" would not realize the result they had hoped for. It did play a part
in S1r's successful running of the engine, though, and here's what that part is:
11.) The long length of the "transformer's" bare copper wire, which is connected to the
ignition coil and the spark plug tip, really has only one functional purpose. It is coiled,
and it's leads bent back, to cause resistance that slows the passage of electrons, thus
effectively retarding the spark timing somewhat, and this is a desired effect for a water
explosion in the cylinder of an engine. So what about the other coils of the
"transformer?"
12.) Coils of the "transformer's" 7-turn and 13 turn windings did absolutely nothing when
used in S1r's video, because they were not connected to a completed circuit.
You see that I have used quotation marks whenever mentioning the "transformer," and
that is because it really is not acting as a transformer at all, let alone the "step-up-
transformer" that S1r suggests. The bottom line here is that S1r was able to run his B&S
generator engine on water for the You Tube videos by producing a plasma spark
comprised of low amperage, high voltage pulses coming from the ignition coil, combined
with low voltage, high amperage (10 to 50 amps) as provided by the battery charger,
which gives a constant current path. In reality, the working Capacitor 70 motorbike
circuit, using water as fuel, is nearly identical to what S1r was doing with the B&S
engine. See
Capacitor70 used the same technique as S1r, applying 50 amps of low voltage current
across the spark plug, which followed the high voltage arc across the spark gap. The only
real difference is that Cap70 used diodes to prevent the high and low voltage currents
from wandering to any place in the circuit other than the spark plug tip. So Capacitor70's
successful bench tests and running engine demonstrations do show that S1r's video
representations of an engine running on water are probably quite authentic. Capacitor70
has now upgraded and bench tested an improved circuit, which uses a second spark plug
as a switch to slow down the HV pulse slightly while high voltage capacitors (in the 7500
picofarad range) briefly charge and then discharge across the switching plug's gap to
activate the primary winding of a toroidal step-up transformer. This step-up transformer
really [U]is[/U] functional, and steps the voltage output of the secondary's magnet wire
windings up to nearly 3 times the HV seen at the primary winding, which would result in
a spark voltage of 100kv or more. The secondary winding is in a series circuit with the
low voltage 50 amps applied across the engine's spark plug. The isolating properties of
the transformer effectively cancel the need for the multiple diodes used in Capacitor70's
previous circuitry. Another thing this transformer accomplishes is to lengthen the
duration of the spark, and that will probably be of advantage in a water fuel circuit. Most
small engines use CDI ignition nowadays, and CDI alone - without the transformer,
would provide a very brief duration spark. That's great for a high revving small engine,
or a racing engine in an automobile, but not for water fuel sparks. The voltage boost
from Cap70's transformer will certainly produce a more powerful plasma arc than was
possible in his working motorbike S1r replication. Capacitor 70 is rebuilding his
motorbike engine, and will apply the new circuit to it when ready. His circuit bench
tested quite well, and he appears to be very happy with it.
I hope this post will serve to clear up the complexities and mysteries of the S1r water
fueled engine videos, which I do believe to be authentic for the reasons stated herein. For
future experimentation and applications of S1r technology, I suggest that you start with
the improved design of Capacitor 70's latest circuit for best results. It is still the actual
S1r method, as used in his videos, but simply made safer and better. See it at
Best wishes to all,
Rickoff :)
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