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Ladies and Gentlemen, please welcome all
the way from China, some of the most
exciting injection moulded kits you could
hope to see. There is no getting away from
the sheer schoolboy excitement induced
by the arrival of these two kits on my desk.
I had already seen the test shot pictures
and the T34/85 display models but these
really didn’t prepare me for the real thing.
They are in my opinion the most
spectacular injection moulded kits to have
been released and they mark out
Trumpeter as a new key player.
What you have here are complete
packages including etched brass, sprung
suspension with rubber tires, individual
track links and even braided metal tow
ropes and to top it all they have managed
to engineer a complete interior. These are
elements that are by no means
commonplace in the average 1:35th kit
and when you compare these with the
likes of the Tamiya 1:16th scale Tank kits
you have to turn to the aftermarket
companies for these parts.
Tamiya have designed their kits primarily
for the RC market and this shows in the
lack of finesse in some components, but
Trumpeter have approached these kits as
purely static models and they are all the
better for it. Perhaps the best example of
this is the highly detailed turret ring which
is of course completely hidden when you
install the turret but they have taken the
trouble to reproduce it - always handy if
you want to blow the turret off! The quality
of the moulding is good and Trumpeter
have taken the trouble to replicate surface
textures where appropriate and everything
fits together well which is quite an
achievement given the complexity of the
kits. The inclusion of things like the etched
brass very much means that these can be
build straight from the box into some very
complete kits.
Trumpeter have released 4 versions of the
T34 - the 1942 T34/76, the 1943
hardedged ‘Mickey Mouse’ T34/76 and 2
versions of the T34/85. It appears that
Trumpeter have used the 85 as the basis
for all the kits which, given their prevalence
is understandable, but in their efforts to
keep as much commonality between
sprues they have introduced some
inaccuracies into the earlier 76 versions.
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The turret ring is the bigger version for the
85 making the earlier turrets necessarily
inaccurate and likewise the kit supplies the
85 firewall and 85 engine oil filters. Both 76
kits lack the power transfer for the turret
and are short of the correct amount of
ready ammunition and also short one of
the floor ammo bins.
Given this, the 85 is most certainly the
easy option but to my mind also the least
exciting. It seemed the ‘42 with its big
turret hatch would offer the best
opportunity to show off the interior so I
decided to build a complete fighting
compartment in this and build the ‘43
buttoned up.
Construction begins with the assembly of
the sprung suspension inside the towers
which go to form the inside hull walls. The
side walls for the fighting compartment
have the distinctive cut out scoops to
accommodate the bigger turret ring of the
T34/85 so these must be filled and I
thought the easiest method was to plate
them over using 10 thou card. The
locations for most of the fixtures and
fittings on the side walls is incorrect for the
earlier versions and is best ignored. Before
installing the inner walls it is best to fill the
large release pin marks on the hull floor.
Trumpeter have done a good job in
providing a convincing representation of
the fighting compartment and especially
the drivers controls but there is still plenty
of room for improvement. Trumpeter have
run the rods from the drivers controls
under the seat - unfortunately they are
rather more complicated and this will be
visible. I began by making the 2 springs
which run from the steering levers to the
floor along with small heel rest which sits in
front of the right hand lever. The steering
controls feed back to a crossbar under the
drivers seat which I made from plastic rod
along with the control rods which run back
along the floor to the firewall. Most of this
area will be covered when the ammunition
stowage boxes are installed.
The compressed air cylinders must be
plumbed in along with the hand pump for
the fuel system which is positioned
between the drivers pedals and this was
done using differing gauges of wire. The
driver and co drivers seats are very flat
Come on in!
It’s Trumpeter’s 1:16th
T34 with full interior
by David Parker
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New ammunition trays were built
using the kit tray and copies made.
The excellent HUSSAR Ammunition
was used to fill the trays.
The crew seats needed to be ‘re-
upholstered’ with MAGIC SCULPT
for a more realistic padded look.
Moulded straps on the ammunition
bins were removed and replaced
with new ones made from pewter
strip.
The centrally positioned MG
ammunition stowage is taken from
the ‘43 kit and modified to fit.
The controls for the engine louvres
are repositioned next to the driver.
The Driver’s controls were improved with
additional control rods and springs.
The radio equipment was detailed with
cabling and a scratchbuilt stowage bag.
Bottle is relocated and detailed
The power transfer
for the turret is not
included in the kit
so this was
scratchbuilt.
‘42
hull interior
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A completely new firewall was built from
plastic card using the kit part as a
template. GRANDT LINE wingnuts were
used to replace the overscale kit parts.
Cabling for the compressed air
system was added using different
guage wire.
The scoops on the hull side wall were
blanked off.
Head padding and weld
beads are made from
MAGIC SCULPT
MR SURFACER
500 was applied
to give an
appropiate
texture to the
armour plate.
The pivot control
for the antenna is
scratchbuilt
A scratchbuilt radio mic is
added under the intercom box.
The dashboard is missing
the small light fitting.
The engine bay was built straight from the
box because it would be hidden on the
completed model.
The front fuel cells are missing from the kit.
The only exception was adding cabling to
the engine.
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‘42
turret interior
Turret interior is
textured using MR
SURFACER 500 and
then lightly sanded.
The vision port opening is
narrowed and the sides are built
up to the correct shape.
The cut back turret
edge is filled and a new
casting seam is added.
The kit MG stowage
rack is not the correct
design so a new one
is built around the
etched brass kit part.
The kit has no stowage
bags included so you must
make your own. I also
added the cable
connections for the
intercom
Chains are added to
the pistol ports along
with the one dangling
from the periscope.
The breechblock assembly is
carefully filled, sanded and
polished and small details
are added.
The machine gun
ammunition drums have
been detailed with canvas
straps and brass rod pull
rings.
The completed gun
minus barrel ready for
installation into the turret.
Note the shell bag under
the recoil guard which
was made from
GREEN STUFF
The rough cast texture at the
front of the breech is created
with MR SURFACER.
Weld beads
are added
using MAGIC
SCULPT.
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‘43
turret texture
The kit provides a very clean, even texture.
To give it a more realistic cast texture the turret a
layer of CAST A COAT is applied.
A base coat of MR SURFACER 500 is then applied.
Quickly followed by another coat which is stippled
to enhance the texture and then lightly sanded
when dry.
The finished cast effect with its irregular finish.
Once dry, this is lightly sanded to remove any high
spots.
and lack the padding of the the real seats
so I sculpted new seat backs using Magic
Sculpt and I also added the supporting rod
that holds the seat back in place using
brass rod.
Moving back down the hull the kit is
missing the power transfer connection
which takes the electrical power to the
turret via a pivoting conduit. This turns out
to be one of those frustrating bits that is
cropped out of pictures or simply not
recorded but I was eventually able to work
out what it looked like thanks to Alexandr
Mosin’s excellent pictures. Once I had
worked out the centre point of the turret on
the hull floor the power transfer was built
from plastic card and rod.
Running down the sides of the hull are 9
trays of ready ammunition, 6 on the right
side and three on the left. Trumpeter only
provide 5 and they have a cap on the tray
which is incorrect. I was left with little
choice but to built my own tray. I began by
hollowing out the rear half of the kit tray
using a burr. I had originally planned to use
the spare rounds supplied in the kit to fill
the racks but fortunately Hussar
Productions released an excellent set of
ammunition so I thinned down the tray until
the new Hussar rounds would sit
comfortably in the tray. I then cut away the
slots on the side of the tray before making
a new base plate from sheet pewter. The
cushioning strips were also made from
pewter and a master for the clip
mechanism was made from brass rod and
pewter with lead sheet for the padding
strips. The masters were then sent away
for casting.
The kit firewall is for the latter pattern
T34/85 so I used it as a template to make
a new one from plastic card. The hinges
on the access panels were made using
brass rod and pewter strip and diagonally
cut plastic rod was used to make the lips
on the panels. Grandt Line wing nuts were
used to secure the panels and I was able
to use the first aid box from the kit. I
decided to detail the ammunition boxes by
removing the moulded straps and
replacing them with new ones made from
pewter strip and I also pinched an
additional box from the ‘43 kit to give me
the required number of boxes.
Because most of it would be hidden I built
the engine straight from the box. Once
again Trumpeter have done a good job
here with the fan and gearbox being
especially well done, but it is more
appropriate to the ‘85 and I think I am
correct in saying that the air filters are the
wrong pattern for the earlier vehicles. The
most obvious addition necessary is to add
the wiring to the engine as this would be
visible through the engine deck hatch. I did
make a start on this when I still intended to
detail and finish the engine but time got
the better of me and I did no further work
to the engine.
The turret for the ‘42 is extremely well
detailed internally requiring only minor
additions and modifications. I added a cast
texture to the internal turret walls using Mr
Surfacer and fitted chains to the pistol port
plugs. The MG ammunition racks in the
turret bustle needed some work with a
new case being built around the kit part
and spring clips added on top of the rack.
These modifications meant that the whole
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installation became quite tight for space
and many dry runs were needed to ensure
that it would all still fit once the turret
halves were joined. The drums themselves
which are very visible in the finished turret
were detailed with straps and pull rings.
The elevation hand wheel is the wrong
design so I built my own and also modified
the turret traverse motor with a sheet
pewter cover for the drive and cabling. The
gun required some minor additions with
some rebated bolt heads but the biggest
job was getting a good finish on the
breech block which is assembled from 5
parts and has some inevitable gaps. I
Spent some time filling and sanding to get
a good finish and finally added a coat of
Mr Surfacer 1000 which was polished to a
high gloss finish.
The crew seats were given new upholstery
made using Magic Sculpt but were
otherwise unmodified but the foot pedal
trigger controls were reworked with
additional springs and detailed pedals.
The Exterior
Trumpeter have given all the external
armour surfaces a textured finish which I
felt was too pronounced certainly on the
hull. I therefore gave all the hull panels a
couple of coats of Mr Surfacer 500 which
was slightly stippled and then sanded back
to a fairly smooth finish more in keeping
with the finish seen in the photos. On the
‘43 turret I wanted to create a far more
pronounced cast texture which I achieved
using a combination of Cast A Coat and
Mr Surfacer - see the picture sequence. I
began the laborious job of adding weld
beads to all the hull joints and fittings,
some of which like the tow hooks used
multiple welds. I used Lee Lloyd’s weld
technique as described in Issue 13 but I
struggled to use the Miliput he
recommended and switched to using
Magic Sculpt instead which I found worked
far better.
The kits supply separate rubber tires for
the roadwheels which I found did not fit the
rims terribly well once they had been
stretched over the substantial location rib
on each rim. These would have been
better moulded as part of the wheel in
1:35th style but to make the best of the
situation I cut off the majority of the rib on
each wheel so that the tires would be
stretched as little as possible - a time
consuming procedure.
The remainder of the assembly proceeded
without any problems. My only other
additions were the electrical wiring for the
headlamp and horn and the improvements
Etched engine
deck mesh is
included in the kit.
The exhausts are
comendably delicate but
require careful filling to
hide the joints.
Weld beads are
applied to hull joints
and fittings using
MAGIC SCULPT
Cables are added
to the headlamp
and horn.
FINEMOULDS turned
aluminium gun barrel
replaces the kit part.
‘42 ’43
Exterior
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The fuse box wiring diagram and dials
were drawn on computer and printed
onto clear plasric.
Painting the radio installation inside the hull
proved to be very demanding.
‘42
hull interior
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I made to the latch on the turret hatch of
the ‘43 version. The kit tracks are snap
together and the downside is that on the
inner face you can see the open slots into
which the track pin clicks, not a big
problem in my opinion especially when you
can assemble a complete length of track in
about ten minutes.
Painting
With kits this size you really do have
your work cut out and I began by giving
them both a coat of Humbrol Olive Drab
closely followed by a coat of Vallejo Air
Tank Green. I find getting a convincing
shade of green can be far from easy but I
am happy with this combination. It took me
an incredible four hours to mask off the
camouflage pattern on the ‘43 kit and the
brown pattern was applied using enamels
mixed to match Don Greer’s excellent
artwork in the Squadron/Signal book. This
dried matt against the slight sheen of the
Vallejo acrylic so I oversprayed both kits
with a coat of 50-50 matt and satin Vallejo
varnish. Following this the lower hull and
running gear were oversprayed with
Humbrol No.72 before being given a wash
of the same colour. Once this wash had
dried, I painted the scuffs, scratches and
finger prints into the dusty areas using
tones of the Vallejo Tank Green and an
appropriate brown. Some dusting with
pastels was applied into recesses and
crevices like around the turret ring and on
the engine decks. The tracks were
airbrushed in brown enamels before
getting an application of Humbrol
Metalcote on the teeth and treads. This
was polished when dry and then coated
with diluted pastels.
The interior was of course painted prior to
the final assembly using a mix of Humbrol
enamels and Vallejo Acrylics. I took the
time to pre-shade all the white areas with a
coat of grey to stop the inside looking too
pristine. Study of the photos of the interior
showed that the paint finishes were satin
rather than matt and I replicated this. This
gives a convincing finish especially when
you have the matt finish canvas stowage
bags against the satin walls. The black
floor ammunition bins presented a painting
challenge to obtain a convincing worn
finish. I tried a new approach using tones of
brown and grey to pick out old scuffs and
The final piece to be fixed
in place was the delicate
foot pedal assembly
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Metalcote to highlight areas of heavy wear
and I was pleased with the result. A similar
approached was used on the seats and I
also brushed pastels into the crevices of
both the seats and ammunition bins.
At the end of this project I feel as if I have
been living inside a T34 for the past few
months and it is good to come blinking into
the daylight and the manageability of
1:35th again. Despite that I love these kits
unreservedly. They have incredible
presence and delightful detail and offer
unbelievable value for money. Well done
Trumpeter for giving us something different,
something not WWII German and generally
breaking the rules - lets have some more
please!
All turret markings were hand
painted - this one took a while.
Hand prints in the dust add to the realism.
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