� Lonely Planet Publications
140 l onel ypl anet. com TAIPEI COUNT Y " " Wul ai 141
National Parks & Forest Recreation ers known only to a few, and many excellent
Areas bird-watching venues. Even the tourist street
Northern Taiwan The north has more than its fair share of in the village is not bad, especially for a hearty
parks and is a hikers paradise. Sheipa Na- meal after a long day in the wilds.
tional Park has the second highest mountain If you re seeking a hot spring, you ll find
in Taiwan in its Wuling Forest Recreation endless choices and prices, including free ones
Area (FRA). Guanwu FRA, on the north- by the river.
ern side of Sheipa, was closed at the time of
If you don t have the time, or perhaps resources, to travel all over Taiwan, you can see
writing, while Syuejian FRA was just about Orientation
much of the best it has to offer within a few hours of Taipei. The north has one of the best
to open. Neidong FRA has three beautiful Wulai is about 25km almost directly south of
networks of hiking trails, an abundance of hot springs, a strong aboriginal presence and
waterfalls and is a popular birding destina- Taipei. The main tourist areas are Wulai Hot
three towns devoted to traditional industries. tion. Manyueyuan FRA is home to a stand Springs Village and Wulai Waterfall, 2km
of 2000-year-old cedars and is connected from the village. There is a pedestrian-only
For something fresh, try swimming or river tracing in the jungle-lined rivers of Pinglin
to Dongyanshan FRA by a 16km-long trail. street in the centre of the village lined with
or Wulai. The opportunity to engage in such a splendid sport almost year-round has kept
Mingchih FRA on the North Cross-Island shops and hot-springs hotels.
more than one expat happy with life in Taiwan. Hwy makes a great base for exploring an area
rich in natural hot springs and old forests. Dangers & Annoyances
The northern trail system begins right at the edge of Taipei and extends, with easy con-
If you go river tracing, plan to be out of any
nections, as far as the North Cross-Island Hwy and the northeast coast. Most trails take you
Getting There & Around river by 3pm or 4pm. Afternoon showers are
through thick forest or steamy jungle, but some run along coastal bluffs or grassy headlands
There s good rail and bus transport along the a daily occurrence in late spring and summer,
or even across ridges so thin only one person can cross at a time. coastlines (except the northern top, which and rivers can become swollen very quickly.
only has bus services). Heading inland, bus Also, be on the lookout for snakes. There are
The northern towns of Sanyi, Pinglin and Yingge still thrive as centres of traditional in-
routes dry up and you will really need your no water snakes in Taiwan, but many spe-
dustry, producing fine wood carvings, tea and ceramics respectively. It s not uncommon for
own transport to visit some places. Traffic is cies sun themselves on the rocks, or hole
people to visit Pinglin for tea, then Yingge for a teapot set and finally Sanyi for a traditional pretty light on weekdays. up in nooks along canyon walls. Leeches
The high-speed rail has stops in Taoyuan, are also a nuisance on many of the more
table to display everything on handsomely.
Hsinchu and Miaoli, but these won t be of overgrown trails.
Two weeks in the north would just begin to do it justice, while a month would not be too
much use to the average traveller.
much. We have lived in this area for years and never tire of getting out to explore. Sights & Activities
WULAI WATERFALL
TAIPEI COUNTY This 80m-high waterfall (W l�i Płbł) is a
beauty and the fact that you can float past it on
In many ways the county is the poor cousin a gondola (adult/child NT220/150) is one more reason
HIGHLIGHTS
of Taipei, but at least transportation is good, to come to Wulai. There s a minitrain (adult/child
and there are some real treats for the nature NT50/30; h8am-5pm) to the base, or you can walk
Explore the quaint mining villages of Jiufen

and culture lover once you get away from the pedestrian route beside the train line.
& Jinguashi (p157)
the urban sprawl.
Juming Museum
Hike and swim under a jungle canopy in

SWIMMING & RIVER TRACING
Wulai (opposite)
Jiufen WULAI Every weekend in the hot summer months
Jinguashi
View the work of Taiwan s master carver at

%02 / pop 7000 river-tracing clubs or informal groups of
the Juming Museum (p156)
The little aboriginal village of Wulai (W l�i)
Sansia Pinglin friends flock to the rivers and streams around
has long been touted as one of the top hot- Wulai to practise river tracing (su�x ; see
Enjoy wild vistas and natural hot springs on

Jiaoshi
Wulai
springs resorts in Taiwan. But we advise p331), which combines scrambling, swim-
the North Cross-Island Highway (p166)
against spending your money here as the ming and hiking (and true technical climbing
Cycle through tea fields in Pinglin (p148) Shitoushan

North town is pretty grubby (though many hotels and rappelling at higher levels).
Cross-Island
Taian
Spend the night in a temple on the slopes

are first rate inside) and the water is re- One popular venue is the Jia Jiu Liao Stream
Highway
Sanyi
of Shitoushan (p175)
portedly not very pure. As one local friend ( ; Ji Ji Li�o X ), which features
quipped, the only prosperous business in a jungle canopy worthy of a Tarzan film, an
Soak in top-quality hot spring water in

Wulai these days is selling water heaters. amazing natural rock slide and a deep pool
Taian (p176)Jiaoshi (p163)
That said, step outside the village and you re large enough for a group to swim in. The
Wander the shops in Sanyi (p178), the

in a thickness of jungle that has impressed stream has no steep inclines and flows rela-
woodcarving capital of Taiwan
travellers for 200 years. You can hike, swim, tively gently, so it s pretty easy going but still
Tread carefully along the knife-edged ridge

river trace or just picnic by cool mountain an absolute joy to trace up.
of Wuliao Jian in Sansia (p152)
streams. There are spectacular waterfalls in The best time to go is summer, though on
the area, some accessible just off the road, oth- weekend afternoons you may find yourself
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
NORTHERN TAIWAN
142 TAIPEI COUNT Y " " Nor thern Tai wan l onel ypl anet. com l onel ypl anet. com TAIPEI COUNT Y " " Wul ai 143
0 600 m
sharing the river with organised groups. Fol-
WULAI
0 0.4 miles
low one to find out where the rock slide is; the
To Taipei (25km)
To Jia
general location is about 100m downstream
Jiu Liao
Stream
from the big pool. An average person can
(3km) Bus Station
Police
reach the pool in less than an hour, though it
Wulai Hot
takes most organised groups about two.
Springs Village
To get to the Jia Jiu Liao Stream, take a bus
Free Bathing Area
to Wulai and get off just past the 11.5km mark
Elementary
at Cheng Gong Village ( ). Head down the School
side road for 1km to a large river. Cross the
Free
Bathing
car bridge and then walk up and around until Area
Bird Watching
Route
you come to another bridge. The stream that
To Tonghou
flows under this is the Jia Jiu Liao. Head up
Trail (15km)
the path on the left and then make your way to
the stream when the path veers off to the left.
The first part of the stream is very crowded
on a summer weekends, but after five minutes
you will be alone.
HIKING
Taipei Day Trips II (see Hiking, p329) lists
some interesting trails in the area that are
too detailed for us to mention here. One clear
simple path, about an hour long, follows the
Nanshih River downstream from Wulai to the
Jia Jiu Liao Stream. The path starts near the
HH
old tollgate at Wulai St Bridge.
CYCLING
Mountain bikers rave about the trail riding
around Wulai, though you ll likely have to go
with a local group to actually find the trails.
Wulai Waterfall
Contact the guys at www.formosanfattire.com
HHH
HHH
HH
or post a message on www.forumosa.com. Cable Car
One popular route you can do on your
Dreamland
To Neidong
own follows the Tonghou Stream. From Wulai Forest Recreation
Area (4km)
head east along (and soon high above) the
river on the paved road. After a few kilome-
tres you ll pass a police checkpoint. Register One follows the path to Neidong Forest Rec-
HHH
HHH
H
HH
using your passport or Alien Resident Cer- reation Area (p144). The other follows the
tificate (ARC) if you want to go further. The Tonghou Stream, starting from the parking
process is simple and costs NT10. lot in Wulai.
At the end of the road (15km to 20km from To begin, cross the first bridge and then
Wulai) you can continue on foot, or on moun- take a left before Wulai St (the tourist street).
tain bike, along the Tonghou Trail ( Follow the road along the Tonghou Stream
; T ngh�u YuŁl ng G dąo). This goes for a short distance, then turn right up a
all the way to Jiaoshi on the east coast and it small road. The loop road/trail that eventually
takes about three to four hours to walk one leads back to the road alongside the Tonghou
way. In 2006 the forestry bureau expanded, Stream is said to be the best bird-watching
marked and signposted the trail making the area in Wulai. A word of warning though: the
way completely clear. route is often littered with rubbish.
Among the birds you can see in Wulai are
BIRD-WATCHING river kingfishers, collared owls, the yellow-
Wulai is renowned for its bird-watching areas throated minivet and the Indian black eagle.
and there are two main routes birders take. Winter is a particularly good viewing time
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
40 km
20 miles
O C E A N
P A C I F I C
Sandiao Cape
Fulong Beach
Longmen Camp Site
Dali
Island
Turtle
Bitou Cape Trail
Longdong
Cape
Bitou
Daxi (Miyuewan)
Fulong
Nanfang'ao
2
Suao
Wushih Harbour
Toucheng
Juifen
0
0
Keelung
Wuta
Shifen
Caoling
Jiaoshi
9
5
Historical
Ruifang
Nanao
9
Hsuehshan
Tunnel
Patu
Jinguashi
Bay
Sandiaoling
Yenliao
Green
Ilan
(2050m)
Yeliu
To Hualien (20km)
Chingshui
106
Pingxi
Luodong
Shihting
Wangyangshan
Jinshan Beach
7
Waterfall
Wufengchi
Wai-ao
Jingtong
Jinshan
Keelung
9
Pinglin
Trail
NORTHERN TAIWAN
Lake
Cuifeng
2nd Nuclear
Island
Power Plant
Gorge
18 Lords Temple
Taroko
Feicuei
Reservoir
Yangmingshan
8
Chilan
NP
Xindian
Renze
2
TAIPEI
Spring
Manyueyuan
Fan Fan
Fuguei Cape
Beitou
3
Maokong
Wulai
NP
Taipingshan
Danshui
Taroko
Xiao Wulai
Waterfall
(3740m)
Bayen Hot Springs
Juming Museum
Tienhsiang
Nanhutashan
Dongyanshan
Neidong
1
Banciao
Sansia
Daguanshan
(Lalashan; 2030m)
(616m)
Mingchih
Bali
Wuliao Jian
Fusing
1
Guanyinshan
Chungyangchienshan
Yingge
Baishawan Beach
3
Kuanyun
Sileng
Baling
Hot
7
Taoyuan
Daxi
15
7
Shalun Beach
Yangmingshan
Hot Spring
4
Lishan
Chianshueiwan Beach
Shimen
2
Reservoir
(3492m)
Tayuling
Wuling
Dabajianshan
Deji
Neiwan
Closed)
Reservoir
Village
Leofoo
Cingcyuan
Hot Springs
3884m)
Line (Temporarily
Taoyuan
Neiwan Small Rail
Guanwu
Chungli
Airport
Window
on China
1
Syueshan (Snow
8
CKS International
Sheipa NP
Hsinchu
Beipu
Bashianshan
Guguan
Jhudong
Nanzhuang
(492m)
15
Syuejian
Mountain;
Shitoushan
Daxueshan
Toufen
Taian
1
Hsinchu
Guoifeng
Dam
Mingde
Miaoli
3
Dongshih
Jhunan
Area
Miaoli
Scenic
1
Dakeng
Fengyuan
Sanyi
3
1
Houli
10
Tunghsiao Beach
T A I W A N
S T R A I T
NORTHERN TAIWAN
St
Tonghou
Wen Quan Rd
Wulai
Stream
Route
Minitrain
Pedestrian
Huan Shan Rd
River
Nanshih
Xindian
River
Hwy
Island
North
Cross-
Closed)
(Permanently
Central Cross-Island Hwy
144 TAIPEI COUNT Y " " Pi ngxi Branch Rai l Li ne l onel ypl anet. com l onel ypl anet. com TAIPEI COUNT Y " " Pi ngxi Branch Rai l Li ne 145
as many mid-altitude species migrate to the Eating
WALKING THE WALK WITH PROF HUANG Robert Kelly
lower river valleys. For more information pick Aboriginal cuisine is the standard fare in
I ve been invited by a friend to join the TMITRAIL Association for a hike from Wulai to Jiaoshi
up a copy of Birdwatcher s Guide to the Taipei Wulai. A few mouth-watering selections
along the historic Tonghou Trail. As I ve wanted to do this hike for almost 10 years, and to meet
Region, and see p328. that can be found at any number of shops
the association and its founder, Professor Huang Wu-hsiung ( ), since I first read about
along Wulai St include mountain vegetables
them in the local papers, I can t say no.
NEIDONG FOREST RECREATION AREA and wild pig (not really wild any more in the
TMITRAIL Association, which stands roughly for  a thousand kilometres of trails around the
Wulai area), zhśt ng fąn ( ; sticky rice
island , began as the vision of Professor Huang to rebuild Taiwanese people s relationship with
About 4km past Wulai Waterfall is this recrea- steamed and served in bamboo tubes) and
nature through a network of walking and biking paths.  We should be able to walk from village
tion area (NŁid�ng S nl�n YóulŁ Q ; http://recreate.forest.gov freshwater fish. Snacks and alcoholic drinks
to village, as in the old days , Huang says,  but we can t because the priority has been to make
.tw; adult/child NT80/40), popularly known as Wa- made from xi om ( ; millet) can be found
roads accessible for cars, not walkers .
wagu, or  Valley of the Frogs . This place alone at many shops and stalls in the village.
And yet, many of Taiwan s mountain roads are so seldom used that they do in fact form an
is wonderful enough to make it worth a dedi- Note that there is no food near Neidong.
extensive walking system already. To prove this I set out in autumn 2006 to walk from Taipei to
cated trip.
Daxi on the east coast with my hiking partners Chris Nelson and Peter Widdle. In what turned
The main attractions are the broadleaf and Getting There & Away
out to be a classic example of ideas cross-fertilising, the TMITRAIL Association later learned about
cedar forests, the bird and insect life (and Buses to Wulai (NT32, 40 minutes, every 30
our walk and drew their own inspiration from it.
the occasional monkey), and the three-tiered minutes) run frequently from near the Taipei
Now when I meet the association I am rather amused that everyone, including the media,
Hsinhsian Waterfall (X�nxi�n Płbł), one of the Xindian MRT station (the last stop on the
know who I am.  So who s the fellow who walked to Daxi? , I hear a reporter shout out, and
most gorgeous in the north. line). When you get off the escalators, walk to
before I realise it s me, all fingers are already pointing in my direction.
According to the Forestry Bureau, May to the main road in front of the station and turn
Professor Huang, the founder, is late arriving. When he does I can t help but notice he is dressed
September is the best time to see the bird and right. Walk two blocks to the bus stop just past
in a white cotton collared shirt and khaki pants. If he was part of my hiking club, I would have
insect life, as well as blooming flowers. the 7-Eleven. Buses are not numbered but they
long ago introduced him to the wonders of quick-drying fabric. But his outfit is pretty standard
There s only one main trail through the now have English signs.
for men of his generation, as is the old smooth stick he uses for a walking pole. In any case, he
reserve so you can t miss it. It starts near
is as fast a walker as I am, and seems to sweat a lot less.
the first tier of the falls and leads up a series PINGXI BRANCH RAIL LINE
Professor Huang doesn t have a sad face, but he looks sad for most of the day. When I first
of switchbacks through a broadleaf forest.
%02
get the chance to ask him why he started the association, he says wearily,  Because I had to .
At the top it connects to a dirt logging road Of the three small branch lines that have re-
Taiwan needs civic groups to stand in opposition to politicians who focus solely on economic
that runs through thick cedar forests. Go mained open for tourism, this 12km track
development. If Taiwan is ever to reach the living standards of Western countries, with their
right and in an hour or so you ll reach the (P�ngx Zh xiąn) is the closest to Taipei,
order, cleanliness and civic mindedness, it will have to come through bottom-up organisations
end of the road and reconnect with the Nei- and our favourite by a long shot. For one
such as TMITRAIL.
dong River. thing, it s a highly scenic ride through a wild,
Huang is well aware he is preaching a new idea, but I soon see that he is serious about tak-
If you don t have a vehicle you can walk wooded gorge. Furthermore, the stops are full
ing the message directly to the people. As we walk along a section of pitch, he stops to talk
to Neidong without much trouble in about of rewarding sights and activities, including
to two workers expanding the road. He explains to the men how their actions are making the
an hour. Most of the route is off the road thrilling hikes, high waterfalls, river pools to
road more prone to washouts, and also increasing people s ability to drive faster (thus making
and flat. Take the pedestrian walkway or the swim in, and the remains of what was once a
the road even more likely to be damaged, to say nothing of making it unsuitable for walking).
minitrain in Wulai to the end and then make thriving coal industry. Pingxi town itself is the
At first I think the professor is preaching to the wrong people (what can these guys do?), but
your way to the main road. After you pass site of the annual sky lantern release during
later I realise that this is the whole point of his mission: to get ordinary people thinking and
through a small tunnel you will see a bridge Lantern Festival, an event not to be missed
involved in changes.
on the left. Cross it and follow the abandoned (see the boxed text, p149).
As we talk further, I realise that Professor Huang is actually not very sanguine about the fu-
road on the other side upstream all the way The Pingxi line branches off from the main
ture of Taiwan. Despite the widespread practice of recycling, and huge improvements in air and
to Neidong. east coast trunk line at Sandiaoling and ex-
water quality, he feels the overall environmental situation has worsened in the past 10 years. I
understand his point, but can t quite agree with his pessimism. I m a bit Pollyanna-ish for sure,
DAY TRIPS FROM TAIPEI
but these days I m meeting more and more people, such as the professor, who are willing to do
All of the following can be reached by public transport from Taipei within an hour. something concrete to improve this island. And this surely will make all the difference.
The emerald tea fields and bike paths of Pinglin (p148)

The swimming holes, hiking trails and hot springs of Wulai (p141)

tends to Jingtong, about a 30-minute ride east Getting There & Around
The old streets of Sansia (p152) and the nearby ceramic shops and museum of Yingge (p151) of the Taipei Zoo. The most interesting stops If you are going to start at Sandiaoling, catch

are Sandiaoling, Shifen, Pingxi and Jingtong. a direct train from Taipei, though note there
The sand and surf of Fulong Beach (p160) and Baishawan Beach (p156)

The entire ride takes about 45 minutes. are usually only two or three in the morn-
The waterfalls, mines and craggy peaks along the Pingxi Branch Rail Line (above)

At the Shifen Scenic Administration Of- ing hours. If you are going to any other stop,
The teahouses and gold mines of Jiufen & Jinguashi (p157)
fice (%2495 8409; h8am-5.30pm), near Shifen first take a train to Ruifang (fast/slow train
station, you can pick up English-language NT80/62, 40/50 minutes, every 30 minutes)
The six-hour Bijia Shan Trail (p150) ridge walk from Shihting to Maokong

brochures and consult the large maps on the and then transfer to the Pingxi line on the
Pick up a copy of Taipei Day Trips (see Hiking, p329 ) for many more ideas.
1st floor. same platform. All-day train passes cost NT50
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
NORTHERN TAIWAN
146 TAIPEI COUNT Y " " Pi ngxi Branch Rai l Li ne l onel ypl anet. com l onel ypl anet. com TAIPEI COUNT Y " " Pi ngxi Branch Rai l Li ne 147
and give you a discount on admission to the Shifen direction. Go on a clear day and give yourself in the mid-1980s. Jingtong station ( ;
Shifen Waterfall. The upstream watersheds of the Keelung River around four hours for the return trip. J ngtóng zhąn), the last station on the line,
Alternatively, you can catch a bus from receive more than 6000mm of rain a year and Around Shifen station you can sample tra- once served as a major centre for coal ship-
Muzha MRT station. From the station walk have more waterfalls than any other river sys- ditional snacks such as m�f nsh ( ; ping. Today it has one of the best-preserved
south to the main road and cross the street to tem in Taiwan. One of the most spectacular sweet potatoes cooked in wheat sugar) and traditional station houses in Taiwan. With
catch bus 16. At the time of writing the buses is the 40m-wide Shifen Waterfall ( ; zh ngyłtóu ( ; steamed taro). nearby coal carts, train engines, a photo museum
came by around 7.30am, 8.20am and 9.45am Sh�f n Płbł; adult/child NT180/100; h7.30am-6pm), the (admission free; h9am-6pm) and an  old street , it s
every day (NT45). For the return schedule broadest waterfall in Taiwan. Pingxi a fun place to explore and take pictures. For
check the bus stop signs in Pingxi. If you have A park has been built up around the falls, Pingxi (P�ngx ) is a bit grubby (though there more on the history of coal mining in Taiwan
three or four people in your group, consider complete with coffee shops, lookouts and were efforts at the time of writing to fix up check out www.taipeitimes.com/News/feat/
taking a 30-minute taxi ride (approximately stone trails that allow you to get right beside the old village), but there are two reasons you archives/2002/09/29/170075.
NT450) from Muzha MRT. the falls. It s outrageously expensive to get in, should make a stop here: the Pingxi crags Another place to check out in town is Prince s
Every sight listed along the Pingxi Branch and we object to the walls the owners have set and the sky lanterns (see the Lantern Festival Guesthouse ( ; Tąiz B ngu n; admission NT50;
Rail Line can be reached easily on foot from up along the tracks, blocking any view to the boxed text, p149). a sprawling 10-
h10am-5pm Sat, Sun & holidays),
the various stations. The track is only 12km falls, but the falls are truly something to see If you ve got a head for heights and like unu- room Japanese-style wooden house built in
long and trains only come by every hour or so, after a heavy rain. sual hikes, don t miss out on the series of crags 1939 with wood from Alishan. Today, both the
so it is possible to walk part or all of it. There To reach the falls, turn right as you exit the ( ; c�m f ng) literally across the street interior and exterior are in almost perfect con-
are a few tunnels  be extremely careful going train at Shifen station. Walk about 15 minutes from the train station. The highest crag is only dition, only in need of a little spit and polish
through these  but if you carry a torch and until you come to a split in the road. Follow 450m or so, but you must scramble up metal (and paint) around the edges. On weekends
a schedule of the trains, you should be fine. the lower road for another five minutes to ladders and steps carved right into the rock face you can tour inside the house and examine
If you do hear a train coming, note that there the tourist office. The waterfall path begins to reach the top. No technical skill is required, the old furniture, books and rooms.
are special alcoves built into the tunnel walls behind this building and takes another 15 but it s an adrenalin rush nonetheless. The house sits on a little picturesque flat
for you to squeeze into. minutes of walking. Note: don t mistake (as To reach the crags, head down to the road by the river. To reach it, exit Jingtong station,
many do) the first set of falls you encounter, from the train station and look for an old map turn right and follow the  old street to the
Sandiaoling Waterfall Trail called the Eyeglasses Waterfall, for the much beside a set of stairs on the other side of the main road. Cross the street to the bridge and
larger Shifen Waterfall. street. Follow the stairs up to a temple. Just you ll see the house to the right in a cluster of
This wonderful trail (S ndi ol ng Płbł Back in town, a few minutes walk in the beyond the temple is a dead-end road. The trees. You can t miss it.
B dąo) starts just a few minute s walk from direction of Taipei from Shifen station leads well-marked and easy-to-follow trails start There s some great hiking around Jingtong
the first stop along the Pingxi line and is a to the 40-hectare Taiwan Coal Mine History & Cul- here. It doesn t matter which crag you climb and the excellent trails are never crowded,
must-visit for any waterfall lover. In just a ture Exhibition Hall ( ; first, but we usually head right at the first even on weekends. One favourite short hike
couple of hours you can see three of the T�iw n M�ikuąng L�sh W�nhuą Ch�nliŁgu n; %2495 8680; junction and do a loop back to the road. is up to the pyramid-shaped Shulong Point
highest and most beautiful falls in the north 5 Tingliao Tsu; adult/child NT200/160; h8.30am-5.30pm). As if Pingxi wasn t enough fun already, (Sh l�ng Ji n; 622m). It s the highest moun-
in their natural glory. The second waterfall This was once a real coal-mining station there is a fantastic little swimming hole that has tain in the area and you can see Taipei 101
even allows you to get right in behind it and everything on display is authentic min- become sufficiently well known that we can let from the top. We also highly recommend
via a cave formed by the overhang: it s like ing equipment: from the rotors to the mo- you in on it, but not so well known you won t Fengtou Point (F ngtóu Ji n), a tough but ex-
something out of The Last of the Mohicans. tors, conveyor belts, coal washing machines, want to go because of the crowds. The pool is hilarating ridge walk. For details on these and
If you have the afternoon or the whole day, electric transport trains and mine tunnels. 5m deep and has a small waterfall at the back other hikes in the area pick up a copy of Taipei
you can see at least four more falls, and if There s also a 1km electric-train ride to the you can stand under. Day Trips II (see Hiking, p329).
you are willing to river trace a little, seven main coal tunnel, and working jiggers with To reach the pools, walk to the main road For something to eat, try Palace Restaurant
more after that. 100m of track to practise your pumping skills from the train station and go right. Just past ( ; Hu�ngg ng K f i Ji nc n; set meals
To get to the trailhead, exit the station on. Most travellers can give this place a miss the spiffy-looking red-brick school you ll see NT220; h11am-9pm Tue-Sun). Set in a short row
and follow the tracks south until they split. unless they have young children or a deep a set of stairs to the left (if you cross the bridge of Japanese-era houses, this restaurant has
Cross over and follow the tracks to the right interest in coal history. over a small stream you ve gone too far). Head both an old-time wooden interior and good
(the Pingxi line). After a few minutes you One of our favourite day hikes begins just up the stairs and continue along the flat. Veer food. Guests can sit on the floor, Japanese
will see the wooden signpost (it s in English) behind the coal mine. Take the road to the left right and stay on the flat trail at the second set style, or at tables. To reach the restaurant,
for the trailhead. The trail is simple and just before the entrance to the mine hall and of stairs. Walk 30m and look down into the cross the bridge by Prince s Guesthouse and
clear to follow at least as far as the third follow it for about 1km. When it splits, take the ravine: you ll see the edge of the pools. turn right; it s 100m down the road. There are
fall (about an hour away). If you want to road on the right down to the coal mine area. Note that if you head up the second set of signs in Chinese.
continue after this all the way to Shifen sta- Swing round the mine to the left and you ll see stairs you will reach a rocky path that leads Moca Cafe ( ; Hóngb o J ng-
tion (further down the Pingxi line) pick up the start of a trail. It s straight up for the first to an old mining area we call Gollum s Lair. It s di n K f i C nf ng; h9am-6pm) only serves drinks.
a copy of Taipei Day Trips II (see Hiking, 40 minutes, but then levels out and runs along an interesting place to explore. Make sure you try the traditional and hearty
p329) or go with someone who knows the the top of a ridge until the peak of Wufenshan miąnch� ( ; sesame paste drink; NT30);
trail. It s not difficult, except for a couple ( ; W f nsh n). The view from up here Jingtong it s great on a chilly day. When you exit the
of climbs up ladders, but it is a little tricky is perfect through 360 degrees, with the ocean The coal mining industry in the Pingxi area train station, turn right and follow the  old
with the turns. to the east and mountain ranges in every other operated for 100 years before finally closing street 30m to this shop. You can t miss it as
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
NORTHERN TAIWAN
148 TAIPEI COUNT Y " " Pi ngl i n l onel ypl anet. com l onel ypl anet. com TAIPEI COUNT Y " " Pi ngl i n 149
it has a blown-up photocopy of its Lonely photographs and intuitive symbols make it
LANTERN FESTIVAL
Planet Taiwan entry plastered on the front useful nonetheless.
Lantern Festival (Yu�nxi o Ji�) is quickly emerging as one of the most popular holiday events
with a caption about foreigners going crazy Pinglin Township is large and encompasses
in Taiwan. And why not? Of all the ancient Chinese festivals, this one has best been reimagined
about their drinks (indulge them). endless mountains, rivers, campgrounds and
for the modern age, with spectacular light shows, live concerts and giant glowing mechanical
hiking trails. We only scratch the surface of the
lanterns showing across the island. And yet, one of the best spectacles is still the simplest and
PINGLIN area here, essentially concentrating on places
most traditional: the sky lantern release in Pingxi.
you can get to if you don t have your own vehi-
%02 / pop 7000
A sky lantern (ti nd ng) is a large paper lantern with a combustible element attached to the
Pinglin (P�ngl�n), which means  forest on cle. If you do, the Sunriver Maps (see p331) give
underside. When the element is lit, hot air rises into the lantern sack and the lantern floats into
level ground , is famous nationwide for its a great overview. Country Rd 42, heading east,
the sky like a hot-air balloon.
locally grown bao chung tea. Only an hour is particularly rich in camping spots, hiking
In Pingxi people have been sending sky lanterns into the air for generations. Long ago, the
from Taipei by bus (about 24km east of Xin- trails and places to swim in the rivers.
remote mountainous villages were prone to attacks from bandits and marauders. Sky lanterns
dian), it is also well loved by day-trippers
were used to signal to others, often women and children, to get packing and head into the high
for its emerald mountain landscape, picture- Sights & Activities
hills at the first sign of trouble. But today it s all about the sublime thrill of watching glowing
perfect tea fields, scenic bike paths and clear, TEA MUSEUM
colourful objects float up against a dark sky. Check out www.youtube.com for a teaser.
swimmable (and kayakable) rivers teeming This place has everything you ever wanted
During the festival, which is spread out over two weekends, there are shuttle buses all day
with fish. The town also features the world s to know about tea  and then some. The
to the site. After dark, lanterns are released en masse every 20 minutes. Usually the participants
largest tea museum, where you can learn not two floors of the classically designed mu-
in these events have been chosen beforehand, but if you hang around you may be asked to
only how tea is grown and processed, but also seum (Ch�yŁ Bówłgu n; %2665 6035; fax [phone];
replace someone who didn t show up.
how to drink it. adult/child NT100/50; h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat &
If you wish to light your own lantern, remember first to write some special wish on it. Then
Sun) feature all manner of displays, dioramas,
light the combustible element, wait till the paper sack has filled with hot air and made the skin
Information & Orientation charts, equipment and, of course, tea in all
taut and let your lantern go. As it floats away to the heavens repeat your wishes to yourself...
The town is quite small and easy to navigate. its forms. There are sections on the history
and pray your lantern doesn t burn up prematurely and crash down into the crowds, or light a
You can walk from the tea museum to the of tea production in Taiwan and China,
tent on fire, as occasionally happens.
end of the dykes in 40 minutes. Admission the culture of tea drinking and tea-making
See p337 for more information.
to the tea museum includes a large foldout methods over the centuries. All exhibits now
map of the area. It s all in Chinese but the have complete English translations.
0 2 km
Sharing the grounds with the museum along the way and you may see tea leaves
PINGLIN
0 1 mile
is a faux-classical style teahouse. There is a spread on the ground drying, or even roasting
AC D
B
leaflet (in English) available to help as you in a tea oven.
To Xindian
(24km)
follow the steps to make tea the proper way No cars are permitted on the sections that
To
Lai Li 106
Campgrounds;
(around NT200 per person). Staff are also run through the tea fields. From the  old
Trail
Swimming
Holes;
on hand to offer assistance. house , much of the route is on a raised foot-
1 42
Cloud 9
Turnoff (2km)
path, making these areas safe for children to
CYCLING ride on. In any case, cars are few and far be-
After you ve learned a little about how tea is tween even on the road sections, as the route
106 3
grown and made, it s time to see it for your- finishes at a dead end.
self in the fields. Pinglin s bike path (ji otąch You can rent bikes (per day NT250) at the
Shuiliujiao
zhu ny�ng dąo) runs for almost 20km through He Huan Campground (see Sleeping, p150)
Trail Guanyintai
9
Trail
Old Road open tea fields and along an unspoiled river any time of day. Helmets and locks are not
Tea
Fields 5
valley with deep pools loaded with fish (kudos provided. From the campground, ride back
2
Old House to the town for really enforcing the ban on towards town and then follow Hwy 9 south
Gardens
1
2
7-Eleven
fishing). Take a rest in one of the tiny hamlets for about 700m. Turn right at the big red
Red Arch
4
arch and you are at the start of the bike route.
Tea Fields
Alternatively, you can follow the river and
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
HHH
H
ride through the tea fields. Either way, signs
Fish-Viewing Path ........................................................1 C2
Tea Museum ............................................................ 2 D2
denoting bike path guide the way.
Red Arch
It takes two leisurely hours to cycle to the
SLEEPING
end and about an hour to return.
He Huan Campground ......................... 3 D1
9
3 EATING
SWIMMING
He Huan Restaurant ...............................4 C2
There are many sweet spots for a dip in the
rivers around Pinglin. Head northeast on
TRANSPORT
Bus Stop................................................................................................5 C2
Country Rd 42 (the river here is very clean)
Bike Path continues To Ilan
past Campgrounds (65km)
or follow the bike path to the end.
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
NORTHERN TAIWAN
River
Beishi
150 TAIPEI COUNT Y " " Shi hti ng (Shi di ng) Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com l onel ypl anet. com TAIPEI COUNT Y " " Yi ngge 151
HIKING Eating mensely satisfying hike along a wooded ridge. To reach the ceramics museum, turn left at
In the hills just back from town and along He Huan Restaurant (H�hu n Ch�yąn F ngwŁi C nt ng; Give yourself about six hours for this trail, and the four-way and walk for another five min-
the rivers there are short paths suitable for four to six hours for Huangdi Dian. utes. Just past the petrol station you ll see the
%2665 7775; 5-1 Shuide Village; dishes NT200; h11am-
families and strolling couples. To get to the 6pm) The speciality here is food made with tea. Shihting can be reached by taking bus 666 museum on the right.
trailhead for the Guanyintai Trail (Gu ny nt�i Not every dish is successful in our opinion, (the bus of the beast as we call it; NT15, 20 The Old Street is pedestrian only (most
Błdąo), cross the bridge near the museum, but the ch�yŁ xi ngs ( ; deep-fried minutes, frequent service in the morning) of the time), but there are few footpaths
turn right and walk about 200m. The stairs tea leaves; NT150) are a hit with most people. from Muzha MRT station. Exit the station, in Yingge and a lot of traffic, which makes
on the left take you up to the giant Guanyin The menu is in Chinese but there are pictures walk to the main road and cross to reach the walking about unpleasant. If you re travelling
statue that overlooks Pinglin. to aid selection. bus stop. with children consider taking a taxi (NT100
At the end of the trail cross County Rds 42 For simple, cheap fare there are noodle Both trails have a few too many twists and to the museum).
and 106 and continue to the suspension bridge shops along the main road and a 7-Eleven turns (some to avoid) for us to give you safe
at the beginning of town. From here you can that sells sandwiches. directions in a few words. Pick up a copy of Sights & Activities
walk along the river back to the museum. Taipei Day Trips I & II (see Hiking, p329) for YINGGE CERAMICS MUSEUM
Children usually like watching the  flash- Shopping a full description.
ing fish along the Fish-Viewing Path (Gu nyś On the main drag into town there s no end of Most people think that pottery and ceramics
Błdąo). A return trip from the museum takes stores selling tea and products made with tea. YINGGE are the same thing, but they are quite differ-
about 1� hours. While tea jellies, Popsicles and t ngz i m g o ent. They use different types of clay and are
%02 / pop 83,468
If you have your own vehicle there are nu- ( sticky rice) are inexpensive, a jar C is for Ceramics. C is for  Yingge? Well, not fired at very different temperatures: pottery
merous, more challenging trails in the Pinglin of good b o zh ng ch� ( ; bao chung quite, but  Yingge is for ceramics is something under 1250�C, ceramics above 1260�C. Hu-
area. Look for the trail signs (in English and tea), the local speciality, can cost thousands almost any Taiwanese can chant. This little mans have been making pottery for around
Chinese) around town to point you in the of dollars. In our opinion, though, it is one of town (Y ngg ) in the very southern part of 8000 years, but only mastered the ceramic
right direction. the most delicious teas in Taiwan and easily Taipei County lives by and for the production process around 3000 years ago.
appreciated by the untrained palate. of high- and low-quality ceramic and pottery If you didn t know this (as we didn t), then
Sleeping objects: everything from cupboard handles to it s time to head to the very stylish and ter-
In addition to the He Huan Campground (H�hu n Getting There & Away Song-dynasty vases. rifically informative Yingge Ceramics Museum
Lły�ng Dłjią Sh nzhu ng; %2665 6424), there are nu- Pinglin is a popular destination and it s simple Pottery was introduced to Yingge in 1804, (Y ngg T�oc� Bówłgu n; %8677 2727; www.ceramics.tpc
merous campgrounds heading south along to get there by public transport. In Taipei, take and a century later ceramics also began to be .gov.tw; 200 Wenhua Rd; adult/child NT100/70; h9.30am-
the bike path and along Country Rd 42. Our the MRT to Xindian station. Turn right on the developed. Both industries flourished due to 5pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun). This is really one of
favourite spot just off along the route is Cloud main road in front of the station and walk to the excellent local clay and good local trans- our favourite museums in Taiwan, in part
9 (%0911-126 337; www.cloud9tw.com; Pinglin Town- the 7-Eleven. Just past the 7-Eleven you ll see port network, originally using the river and because of the exposed concrete and steel
ship; camping per person NT200), run by a friendly a bus stop. Buses to Pinglin run about every later rail. In recent years the town made the design. Exhibits cover everything from  snake
South African family who ve made Taiwan hour to 90 minutes (NT68). successful leap from manufacturing base to kilns (see p224) to the various woods used in
their home. The bus drops you off in the centre of Pin- cultural venue. The opening in 1999 of the firing, and influences on Taiwanese ceram-
The campground sits on a shady grassy flat glin. It s a short walk from here to the mu- NT6-billion Yingge Ceramics Museum and ics from China, Japan and the Netherlands.
beside the Beishi River. It s in a prime spot seum. Note that the last bus to Taipei leaves the creation of the  Old Street solidified this Special exhibitions of local artists show the
with several deep but calm swimming holes Pinglin at 5pm. crossover and put Yingge on the traveller s direction modern ceramics is taking, and the
just steps away, and numerous hiking and bik- map for lovers of traditional crafts. occasional humorous exhibit and flashy vid-
ing trails nearby. The owners are avid kayakers SHIHTING (SHIDING) Yingge makes an enjoyable, long day eos help to keep interest high as you move
and offer lessons and rentals. They also offer trip from Taipei and fits in naturally with around the three floors.
%02 / pop 300
two- to five-hour inner-tubing excursions The little town of Shihting (Sh�d�ng) sits in the a stopover at nearby Sansia for a look at Adults can make their own pots on week-
down the Beishi River. A maximum of 30 peo- hills about 15km east of Maokong. There s not the masterfully restored Tzushr Temple and ends, while supervised children s workshops
ple are permitted to camp at one time, which is much to see in the town itself, though locals the nearby blocks of Qing- and Japanese- (for kids four to eight years old) are run
a welcome change from the more-the-merrier do commend the various tofu dishes you can era buildings. every day (NT75 for materials). Instructions
(and louder-the-better) locally run sites. Meals get on the  old street . For the foreign traveller are in Chinese only, though it s common to
are available (NT150 to NT200) and there are there are two excellent hikes that shouldn t Orientation have someone around who can speak Eng-
also kitchen and barbecue facilities. be missed: Huangdi Dian ( ; Hu�ngd� At the train station, English signs direct you lish and help out. Call for times.
Cloud 9 is a bit tricky to get to from cen- Diąn) and Bijia Shan ( ; B jią Sh n). left or right to the Old Street and ceramics
tral Pinglin, so call for a pick-up or consider Huangdi Dian runs east of Shihting along a museum. Ignore the signs and exit on the YINGGE OLD STREET
taking a taxi from Taipei Main Station. The narrow ridge that in parts is no more than right side of the station no matter where you Dozens of pottery shops and stalls, large and
campground has a working relationship with 20cm wide  with sheer drops on the right and want to go. Turn right when you re outside small, compete for your business on the Old
a local driver and the fee is NT500 to NT600 left! There are ropes and guide poles in place and walk down the road until you reach a big Street (L o Ji ) and you could spend hours
(very reasonable if there are a few of you). You in the more dangerous parts, but still, don t four-way intersection. To get to the Old Street, just browsing. Prices start at around NT30
don t need your own transportation once you go if you haven t a head for heights. turn right, pass through the tunnel and then for a cup or saucer, but these will most cer-
are here. Note that at the time of writing the The Bijia Shan trail runs west of Shihting all head towards the arches on the left. The Old tainly be mass-produced in China. Quality
campground was only open on weekends. the way to Maokong and is a safer but still im- Street begins here. handmade Yingge pieces can cost tens of
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
NORTHERN TAIWAN
152 TAIPEI COUNT Y " " Sansi a (Sanxi a) l onel ypl anet. com l onel ypl anet. com KEELUNG TO DANSHUI " " Keel ung (Ji l ong) 153
thousands, though many of the best shops guests are taken to when they arrive in Tai- Getting There & Away option, as well as walking down to Lele Val-
are not even on the Old Street. wan, as it s on the way from the airport to From Yingge, the only sensible way to get to ley and catching the bus. The last bus leaves
The Old Street, although not really old Taipei. No one has failed to be impressed. Sansia is by taxi (from ceramics museum to Lele Valley around 6pm (call the Taipei Bus
at all is somewhat quaint, with its cobbled temple NT110). Company to confirm).
roads, traditional street lamps and a walk- MINCHUAN OLD STREET
in kiln. At the time of writing the street Take a walk back in time on this old street MANYUEYUAN FOREST RECREATION
was getting a lot of added character in the (l o ji ), which features several blocks of AREA KEELUNG TO DANSHUI
form of red-brick fa�ades and cleaned-up red-brick shops dating from the end of the This recreation area (M nyuŁyu�n S nl�n YóulŁ Q ; http://
buildings. Most shops close between 6pm Qing dynasty to the early years of the Japa- recreate.forest.gov.tw; adult/child NT100/75; h8am-5pm) %02
and 7pm. nese colonial era. If you look closely you can is truly a park for all seasons, and all people. This pleasant route follows Provincial Hwy
see a diversity of styles in the shop fa�ades The first section has paved or cobbled paths, 2 as it winds along the top of the island. To
Eating as they incorporate traditional Chinese, Jap- scenic pavilions and short walks to a number one side, the blue ocean stretches to the ho-
On the Old Street there are plenty of ven- anese and Western baroque elements. Note of gorgeous waterfalls. It s perfect for families rizon, while to the other, the lush dark-green
dors to help you line your stomach. Next to that the mortar used for the bricks is sticky or strolling couples. hills of Yangmingshan National Park (see
the museum you ll find a street filled with rice and crushed seashells. Once you get past this section, however, p132) rise up to dominate the sky. Public
small restaurants and noodle shops. At the time of writing the street had just you re on natural trails that take you through transport is limited to buses, but these are
completed its renovations and was look- sweet-smelling cedar forests, up to moun- frequent and hit every place we mention.
Getting There & Away ing much as it must have 80 years ago. To tain peaks and, further afield, to a stand of There are a few good swimming beaches
Trains from Taipei (NT31, 30 minutes) run reach the old street turn right as you exit the giant ancient cedars ( ; sh�nmł). The trail along the way, a couple of excellent hot-
about every 30 minutes. temple and walk up the alley to Minquan starts up a short incline to the right of the spring resorts and a great little sculpture
(Minchuan) St. bathrooms at the end of the paved route to museum. At the time of writing, Fuguei
SANSIA (SANXIA) Manyueyuan Waterfall. It s broad and clear, Cape, the most northerly point in Taiwan,
HIKING takes about four hours to hike and has many was getting a new look, along the lines of
%02 / pop 86,958
Across National Hwy 3 from Yingge is this There are some excellent hikes in the Sansia side branches. The main route connects Man- Fisherman s Wharf in Danshui. Let us know
old town (S nxi�), most noted for a temple area, including many people s favourite in all yueyuan with Dongyanshan Forest Recreation how it turned out.
that has been under reconstruction since the north: Wuliao Jian ( ; W li�o Ji n). Area (p168), but note that there is no public Most of this area falls under the auspices
1947 and a couple of blocks of perfectly re- The Wuliao Jian trail take about six hours transport to and from Dongyanshan. If you of the North Coast & Guanyinshan Scenic Ad-
stored Qing- and Japanese-era buildings. In to finish, but it doesn t cover much ground walk there you must walk back. ministration (%2636 4503; www.northguan-nsa.gov
short, Sansia and Yingge go hand in hand, as most of it involves treading lightly along The trails to the old cedars, and to the .tw/en/index.php; h8am-5pm). By the time you
contrasting and complementing each other a knife-edge ridge. These days you ll find higher mountains, are unfortunately not read this, its headquarters and visitor centre
like peanut butter and chocolate. secure ropes and guide poles in place, and straightforward enough for us to write up in should have moved back to Baishawan Beach
they really are necessary. On one section, a short space. They are fairly popular trails from its temporary home in Sanjhi.
Sights & Activities for example, you must go up and along a though and anyone in decent shape can man-
TZUSHR TEMPLE bumpy narrow slice of rock that s exposed age them. Get a copy of Taipei Day Trips II KEELUNG (JILONG)
Originally constructed in 1769, this temple on all sides. Years ago, when we first hiked (see Hiking, p329) for clear directions. %02 / pop 399,000
(Z sh Miąo) has been rebuilt three times. the route, there was only a thin rope at- Autumn is a nice time to visit the park Keelung (J lóng) is a port city, the second
The last involved the life s work of Professor tached to the flat of the ridge and you actu- as the gum and soap-nut trees are changing largest in Taiwan, and has the rough-around-
Li Mei-shu, a Western-trained painter who ally had to straddle the rock and shimmy colours. Fireflies come out in the spring and the-edges, devil-may-care vibe so common
supervised reconstruction with such fastidi- across. It was insane then; now it s just a summer, though we have seen them as late as in places where mingling with sailors is
ous care that today the temple is a showcase good thrill. October. You can often spot monkeys further common. Though a modern city today, in
of carving, painting and temple reliefs. For Needless to say, don t go unless you have into the park during the day. Be aware that the markets and alleys you ll still catch a
example, while most temples have a couple a good head for heights and are in the mood the park has its own microclimate, and while whiff of the city s long and storied history,
of dragon pillars, this one has 156. There are for a challenge. it may be sunny and dry in Taipei, it could be which involves foreign invaders, pirates and
also a number of features you ll not see in Like many hikes, this one has a few too cool and wet here. intrigue by the barrel full.
another temple in Taiwan, such as bronze many twists and turns for us to describe safely To get to the park take an infrequent Tai- Keelung is a quick trip from Taipei by ei-
doors, carvings of bears, turkeys and octo- in a short space. Once again consult Taipei pei Bus Company (%2671 1914; NT48) bus from ther bus or train and offers a lot to the casual
puses, and even Greek-style gargoyles. Pick Day Trips II (see Hiking, p329) for full infor- the station on Dayung Rd ( traveller who knows where to look. Thanks
up an English brochure at the temple for a mation, including transport. One transport ) in Sansia to Lele Valley ( to its strategic importance over the centu-
very thorough introduction. option not included, however, is to take the ; LŁlŁ G ). From Lele Valley it s about a ries, the area has a number of old forts. Be-
The temple is dedicated to the Divine MRT to Yongning Station (the last on the blue 30- to 40-minute walk to the park gates. If fitting a coastal town, you ll also find ocean
Progenitor and is the centre of religious life line) and then a taxi (NT300). It s worth it if you can get a few people together, take a parks, scenic lookouts and, perhaps most
in Sansia. It s liveliest on the deity s birthday, your group numbers several people, as bus taxi (NT450) from Yongning MRT station germane to the gourmand, copious amounts
the sixth day after Chinese New Year. service is very infrequent to the trailhead. At to the park. You may be able to get a taxi of excellent seafood.
If you plan to see only one temple in Tai- the temple at the end of the hike you can ask back on a busy summer weekend, but don t Weatherwise, Taiwanese sometimes joke
wan, make it this one. It s often the first place for a taxi to come and pick you up. count on it. Hitchhiking into Sansia is an that Keelung is Taiwan s Seattle, with wet
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
NORTHERN TAIWAN
154 KEELUNG TO DANSHUI " " Keel ung (Ji l ong) l onel ypl anet. com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com KEELUNG TO DANSHUI " " Yel i u 155
and drizzly winters and three other seasons a fine play on words if you ask us). After the FOGUANGSHAN TEMPLE close to the harbour. In the midrange, Har-
in which it may well rain a bit on any given war, more shops opened up in both directions. Just south of Jungjeng Park is this beautiful bourview Hotel (Hu�shuąi H ij ng Fąndiąn; %2422 3131;
day. But something about the damp, mist- Nowadays, Miaokou is considered the best and subdued Buddhist complex (Fógu ngsh n www.hhotel.com.tw/; 109 Xiao-2 Rd; 2 109 ; s/d incl
shrouded climate of Keelung suits its moody place in Taiwan for street snacks, especially S�) with an open meditation hall. breakfast NT1950/2340) is a chic, smartly furnished
nautical feel to a T. seafood. Though some shops are open during place in between the train station and night
the day, it s after dark when the place really AROUND KEELUNG market. For food, try the vegetarian restaurant
Orientation & Information comes to life. If you have a bit more time to spend around (%2423 1141; dishes NT80-150; h10am-8pm) beside
Keelung is a very wander-able town, with For the benefit of all, stalls on the main Keelung, check out Keelung Island ( ; the Foguanshan Temple. We recommend the
a small centre and plenty of winding al- street are all numbered and have signs in Eng- J lóng Y ), a tiny spot of land with an emer- wonton soup, a vegan rarity.
leyways that turn into quaint MC Escher- lish, Japanese and Chinese explaining what s ald peak and surprisingly high cliffs. Boats
esque neighbourhoods (with houses built on the menu. If you can possibly make it past to Keelung Island (adult/child NT300/200) Getting There & Around
into the sides of hills and steep alleyways them all without falling over, the temple itself leave from Bisha Harbour ( ; B�sh Trains from Taipei to Keelung (NT43, 40 min-
that become staircases). You can visit most is worth visiting. Yśg ng), 10km east of the island and itself utes, every 20 minutes) run till 11.30pm. Buses
of the sights outside of the city by bus within worth visiting. The return trip takes about to local sights start at the city bus hub near the
30 minutes. JUNGJENG PARK 90 minutes and includes time on the island. train station area and cost NT12 no matter the
The bus and train stations are adjacent This park (Zh ngzhŁng G ngyu�n) overlooks Boats leave when full; on weekdays and in distance. Buses to sights along the north coast
to each other at the northern end of the the city and the harbour. You can get here winter months you may find yourself wait- start from the Keelung Bus Company (%2433 6111)
city. You can pick up good English maps at from the train station by bus 101, 103 or 105, ing for a while. station, which is also near the train station.
the Keelung Tourist Service Centre (%2428 7664; but shouldn t you walk off that afternoon To get to Bisha Harbour take bus 103 from Though not always reliable, you can take an
www.klcg.gov.tw; h8am-5.30pm), right next to the snack-fest at Miaokou? In any case, the park the train station. Buses are frequent and the overnight boat from Keelung to Matsu Island.
train station. isn t hard to find. Let a Keelung icon, the trip takes about 20 minutes. Foreign travellers Boats leave from Keelung Harbour s Pier 2.
bone-white 22m tall Guanyin statue, flanked should bring their passport or ARC.
Sights by two gigantic golden lions, be your guide. Bisha Harbour is also known as a great YELIU
KEELUNG MIAOKOU Note that while there s a main road lead- place for seafood. Just a few kilometres northwest of Green Bay
It s still thought of as a night market but you re ing up from the south side of the hill, the sits this limestone cape (Y li ; adult/child NT50/25;
not going to go hungry at Miaokou (J lóng stairs and alleyways from the west side have Festivals
h8am-5pm) that has long attracted people to
Miąok u) if you show up during the day. more character. During the seventh lunar month, Keelung its delightfully odd rock formations. Aeons of
Encompassing several square blocks around is host to one of Taiwan s most renowned wind and sea erosion can be observed first-
the intersection of Ren 3rd Rd and Ai 3rd ERSHAWAN FORT ghost festivals (zh ngyu�n ji�). The festival lasts hand in hundreds of pitted and moulded
Rd, this area (famous throughout Taiwan) Also known as Haiman Tienxian, this first- the entire seventh lunar month (usually Au- rocks with quaint (but accurate) names
became known for its great food during the class historical relic (Sea-gate Fort; �rsh�w n) gust), and each year a different Keelung clan such as Queen s Head (N w�ng Tóu) and
Japanese occupation, when a group of clever was once used to defend Taiwan during the is chosen to sponsor the events. Highlights Fairy s Shoe (Xi nn Xi�). It s a geologist s
merchants started selling snacks at the mouth First Opium War. Its imposing main gate and include folk art performances, the opening of dreamland but also a fascinating place for the
of the Dianji Temple ( Miaokou means  temple five cannons, still tucked into their battery the Gates of Hell and the release of burning day-tripper.
entrance and also  temple mouth , which is emplacements, are a dramatic sight. water lanterns. The visitor centre (%2492 2016; h8am-5pm) has
an informative English brochure explaining
0 400 m Sleeping the general conditions that created the cape
KEELUNG (JILONG)
0 0.2 miles
Most people treat Keelung as a day trip. If you and also the specific forces that formed dif-
To Heping
10
A BCD
Island (2km); want to stay a night there are cheap hotels ferent kinds of rock shapes, such as the mush-
3
HHH
Bisha Harbour
Jungjeng
(10km)
room rocks, marine potholes and honeycomb
Park
INFORMATION
5 rocks. To get to the park, take a Kuo Kuang
1
Keelung
Keelung Tourist Service Centre ...................1 A1
Hao bus heading to Jinshan from the Zhongx-
Harbour
1
iao-Fuxing MRT station (the bus stop outside
8
Train
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Station
exit 2). Buses (NT83) run every 15 minutes.
Dianji Temple .....................................................................2 B2
1
Ershawan Fort ................................................................... 3 D1
9 HHH Foguangshan Temple ................................................4 C1
JINSHAN (CHINSHAN)
4
Guanyin Statue ............................................................ 5 D1
%02 / pop 5000
Keelung Miakou ...........................................................6 B2
7
Continuing northwest, not far past Yeliu and
SLEEPING
the nuclear power plant is Jinshan (J nsh n),
Harbourview Hotel ............................................7 B2
a small town hemmed in by the mountains
2 of Yangmingshan to the west and the East
TRANSPORT
2
6
HHH City Bus Hub ...................................................................8 A1 China Sea to the east. With its good beach,
Keelung Bus Company Station ...............9 A1
scenic cape, grassy-banked river and abun-
Matsu Ferries ....................................... (see 10)
dant hot springs, Jinshan should be a great
Pier No 2 ............................................................................................10 B1
To Taipei
(25km) little summer getaway. And it may yet be.
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
NORTHERN TAIWAN
Shou Shan Rd
Xin-3 Rd
Jhungjheng Rd
Xin-2 Rd
Jungshan-1 Rd
Jung-1 Rd
Xiao-4 Rd
Jung-2 Rd
Xin-1 Rd
Ren-1 Rd
Jung-3 Rd
Rd
Xiao-2
Ren-3 Rd
Ai-4 Rd
Xiao-3 Rd
Ren-2 Rd
Jung-4 Rd
Tianliao River
Ai-1 Rd
Xiao-1 Rd
Yi-3 Rd
Ren-4 Rd
Ai-2 Rd
Ai-3 Rd
Ren-5 Rd
156 KEELUNG TO DANSHUI " " 18 Lords Templ e l onel ypl anet. com l onel ypl anet. com NORTHEAST COAST " " Ji ufen & Ji nguashi 157
At the time of writing, however, chaos missing one day. One loyal dog pined for days Gold Ecological Park and strolling through
seemed to rule on Jinshan s beaches. Too for the return of his master until, unable to NORTHEAST COAST the verdant treeless hills, and the afternoon
many swimmers, surfers, wannabe surfers bear the suffering any longer, he leaped into and early evening hanging out at one of the
and vendors were all trying to compete for the foaming sea and drowned himself. Local We re using Keelung as our kicking off old teahouses on the hillsides of Jiufen before
the same stretch of sand. However, the situ- people were so impressed by this act of loyalty point again, but this time we re heading east, returning to Taipei.
ation may be very different by the time you they built a temple in honour of the dog. where the mountains rise straight from the
read this if the North Coast & Guanyinshan Years later, the Kuomintang (KMT) con- sea. This is a great region for lovers of the Orientation & Information
Scenic Administration get control over the structed the first nuclear power plant behind outdoors; as there are swimming and surfing Many of Jinguashi s sites are in what s called
area as they are attempting to do. the temple. Both buildings are now just off beaches and a number of excellent day hikes the Gold Ecological Park. The park is a show-
Provincial Hwy 2. along the coastal bluffs. And, of course, this case for just how well the Taiwanese govern-
Sights & Activities The temple, we should warn, is not at all being Taiwan, you ll find hot springs. ment can design a new tourist area when they
Our favourite hot spring resort in the north, picturesque. In fact, you can barely see it for For the history and culture buff there can start from scratch and own the rights to
the five-star Tienlai ( ; Ti nląi; %2408 0000; the ugly crowded shops and stalls. Still, the are two old mining towns from the Japa- the land. The contrast between the orderli-
www.gio.gov.tw/taiwan-website/gogo/goen_32.htm; 1-7 opportunity to be blessed by a dog should nese era to explore. Interestingly, one of the ness of the park and its high quality facilities
Mingliu Rd; 1-7 ; unlimited not be missed if you are driving through most precious legacies of this era is an old and infrastructure, and the chaos, grubbi-
use of public pools NT800) is just outside of Jinshan the area. street filled with teahouses. Further south, ness and piecemeal improvements in Jiufen
and the road into Yangmingshan National you ll find a fantastic private collection of is striking.
Park. The resort features over a dozen outdoor BAISHAWAN BEACH stone lions and a centre devoted to the The park is free but a ticket allows you
and indoor pools that can massage, soak, per- The best beach on the north coast is found at traditional arts. entry into the Crown Prince Chalet and
fume, shower and even spin you right round. this little bay (B�ish w n), the name of which Most of this area falls under the auspices the Museum of Gold. There s a tourist office
This is a place to take a loved one when you translates as  white sand bay (though these of the Northeast Coast Scenic Administration (%2496 2800; www.gep.tpc.gov.tw; h9am-5pm) at the
want to spoil them. Check out the website to days it is definitely more of a yellow colour). (%2499 1115; www.necoast-nsa.gov.tw). Its head- start of the park, where you can pick up an
see how lovely it all is. Tienlai is a 10- to 15- The North Coast National Scenic Area Administration quarters and visitor centre are in Fulong. English brochure that includes a good map
minute taxi ride from Jinshan. (%2363 4503; www.northguan-nsa.gov.tw/en/index.php; and information on all the attractions, both
Just down the road from the entrance to has helped to clean up the area JIUFEN & JINGUASHI inside the park and out.
h8am-5pm)
Tienlai is the start of a trail to the natural and keep the vendors and shops organised. As for Jiufen, there are really only two main
%02 / pop 2000
springs called Bayen Hot Springs ( ; There s none of the chaos plaguing the nearby Nestled against the mountains and hemmed streets to consider and they intersect: Jishan
B y n W nqu�n). At the 5.5km mark, head beaches at Jinshan, though there certainly are in by the sea are the small villages of Jiufen St, a narrow covered alley, and Shuchi Rd, a
down the side paved trail. Follow the signs crowds on the weekend. (Ji fŁn) and Jinguashi (J ngu sh�), two of the long set of stairs. On these two streets you ll
or, on a weekend, ask other hikers. It s a well- The entrance to the beach is down a road quaintest stops along the northeast coast. find most of the teahouses, craft shops, galler-
known place, a bit too popular at times, but 100m or so off Hwy 2 (there are brown signs Both villages were once centres of gold min- ies and food stalls Jiufen is famous for.
still lovely. in English). Swimming is permitted during ing during the Japanese era. In the 1930s,
Not far from Jinshan, the Juming Museum ( summer (June to September) and in recent Jiufen was so prosperous it was known as Jiufen Sights & Activities
; Zh m�ng M ishłgu n; %2486 9940; www years a surfing scene of sorts has taken off.  Little Shanghai . Jinguashi later became JISHAN STREET
.juming.org.tw; adult/child NT250/220; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun You ll find no end of shops offering boards notorious during WWII as the site of the Narrow, covered Jishan St (J sh n Ji ) often
May-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Apr) is a 15-hectare park built and wetsuits should you want to try your hand prisoner of war camp Kinkaseki. leaves lasting impressions. We were taken
to display the creative works of internation- at the sport. And you ll also find no end of When the mining sources dried up, Jiufen there and to a nearby teahouse during our
ally recognised sculptor Juming from Miaoli young Taiwanese paddling their boards in and Jinguashi became backwaters just wait- first week in Taiwan, and have never forgot-
County, including works that have been dis- the shallows not daring or caring to actually ing to be rediscovered. Jiufen s discovery ten it. Jishan is really just one long, narrow
played in Paris, Hong Kong and Tokyo. It s a get on the waves. happened first. After the release of the 1989 covered lane, but spending a few hours here
10-minute taxi ride (NT150 to NT200) to the To get to the beach, take the MRT to film City of Sadness, set in Jiufen during browsing the knick-knack, curio and craft
museum from Jinshan. For more information, Danshui, then catch a Tamshui (Danshui) Bus the Japanese occupation, urban Taiwanese shops is a lot of fun.
check out the museum s excellent website and Company (%2621 3340) bus heading east to began to flock to the old village in search One of the most popular activities on the
see the boxed text on p53. Jinshan/Keelung (NT50, 20 minutes, every of a way of life that had been all but swept street is snacking. Some distinctive snacks to
30 minutes). away in the rush to modernisation. The look for include yłyu n ( ; taro balls),
Getting There & Away old town, rich in decorative old teahouses, yśw�n ( ; fish balls), c oz g o (
To get here, take a Kuo Kuang Hao bus head- DANSHUI & BALI Japanese-style homes and traditional nar- ; herbal cakes) and h it�ng g o ( ;
ing to Jinshan from the Zhongxiao-Fuxing There are two places worth seeing further up row lanes gave them exactly what they were molasses cake).
MRT station (the bus stop outside exit 2). on the North Coast; the Taipei-river suburb looking for.
Buses (NT83) run every 15 minutes. of Danshui (see p126) and the charming sea- Jinguashi hit the traveller s radar just re- TEAHOUSES
front town of Bali (see p129) are both easy day cently and we have to say it has completely Apart from shopping, strolling and snack-
18 LORDS TEMPLE trips best made out of Taipei. These towns eclipsed its neighbour, except for as a place ing, the main attraction in Jiufen is spending
People sometimes refer to this temple (Sh�b are accessible via the MRT from Taipei and to sit and drink tea. Our recommended itin- a few hours in a stylish traditional teahouse
W�ngg ng) as the  dog temple . According to are popular as day trips with locals as well erary would be to spend the morning and sipping fine tea. This isn t everyone s  well 
one version of the legend, 17 fishermen went as tourists. early afternoon in Jinguashi enjoying the cup of tea, but for those of us who love it,
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
NORTHERN TAIWAN
158 NORTHEAST COAST " " Ji ufen & Ji nguashi l onel ypl anet. com l onel ypl anet. com NORTHEAST COAST " " Bi tou Cape 159
Jiufen gets top marks as a place to indulge in furnishings. Indoor and outdoor seating is hillsides. In fact, the natural environment BITOU CAPE
a favourite pastime. The best shops, which are available. The views from the decks are the around Jinguashi should be as big a draw One of three capes along the north coast, Bitou
mostly on the stepped Shuchi Rd, are like folk perfect complement to Chinese tea brewed as the cultural attractions. Cape (B�tóu Ji o) is of note for its beautiful
art museums, filled with curios and antiques. the classical way. A couple of the highlights in the park in- sea-eroded cliffs, fantastic views along the
Note that the teahouses don t have English We re listing City of Sadness (B iq�ng Ch�ngsh�; clude the Crown Prince Chalet ( ; Tąiz coast, and the Bitou Cape Trail ( ;
signs outside. B nggu n), built as an official residence for B�tóu Ji o Błdąo), which is like an easier ver-
%2496 9917; 35 Shuchi Rd; h10am-midnight) because
the Japanese royal family to use when visit- sion of the nearby and more majestic Caoling
The price for making your own tea (pąo of its fame, but have to say that it is not one
ing Taiwan (alas, they never came). It s the
ch�) is much the same everywhere: NT250 to of our favourite teahouses. The place is a lit- Historical Trail.
best-preserved Japanese style wooden resi- Interestingly, the rock formations at one
NT400 for a packet of leaves and NT100 for tle cramped and unfortunately placed on the
dence in Taiwan, and really quite a beauty.
your water fee. The following teahouses are end of the lane where trucks and other mod- part of the trail were formed six million years
The ruins of the Gold Temple ( ;
among the best. ern nuisances can too often be heard. ago, while those at another, only 3km away,
Hu�ngj n Sh�nshŁ) sit high on the steep
The owner claims his business, Jiufen were formed 60 million years ago. For fun,
slopes above Jinguashi and look like some- make a bet with your companions to see who
Teahouse (Ji fŁn Ch�f ng;%2496 9056; 142 Jishan St; JILONGSHAN
thing out of Greek mythology.
h10am-10pm), housed in a 90-year-old build- You can t miss this emerald colossus for can tell which is which.
ing, was the first teahouse in Jiufen. There is the way it dominates the skyline. At only The trail starts near the bus stop before the
REMAINS OF THE 13 LEVELS
indoor and outdoor seating, and it s hard to 588m, Jilongshan (J lóngsh n) may read tunnel and takes a couple of hours to walk.
The remains are a massive copper smelting re-
decide which to choose, though we usually like a rather puny giant, but it rises up so There is a map in English. To get here from
finery (sh�s nc�ng) that inspires such a heavy,
sit inside as the wood and brick design has fast and steep, it s dizzying to stare at from Keelung, take a bus (NT65, 20 minutes, every
dystopian industrial awe it has been used as
such a charming old-world feel to it. The below. You can climb the peak in about hour) from the Keelung Bus Company (%02-2433
a background for music videos. The remains
teahouse only serves tea and snacks, but 40 minutes. 6111) station.
are down from the park heading towards the
if you want a meal they will direct you to
sea. There are signs in English to direct you
their (almost) as-nice sister restaurant down Jinguashi Sights & Activities LONGDONG
there from the park.
the street. GOLD ECOLOGICAL PARK Just through the tunnel past Bitou Cape is
Bafan Gold Site Teahouse (B f n Ch�gu n; %2496 We could, and did, spend hours just wan- Longdong (Lóngd�ng), a well known, but
GOLDEN WATERFALL
0692; 300 Chingpien Rd; h10am-10pm) is a three- dering this park (Hu�ngj n Bówłyu�nq ), not particularly good, diving and snorkelling
Further towards the sea is this waterfall
storey place that s well stocked with antique set high above the village in green, quiet spot in the north. There are two sections of
(Hu�ngj n Płbł), so-called because its water
Longdong and they are connected by the
0 600 m has a yellow hue from the copper and iron
very scenic Longdong Cape Trail (Lóngd�ng
JIUFEN
0 0.4 miles
deposits it picks up as it passes through Jin-
W nji� Błdąo), which is around 7km long.
To Jinguashi
To
AC D (2km)
B
Jilongshan guashi s old mines.
The trail starts at the Longdong South Ma-
34
rina Ocean Paradise (Lóngd�ng N�nk u
Getting There & Around
H iy�ng G ngyu�n; the sign off the high-
35
The two towns are only 3km away from each
1 way says Lungtungnankou), a few kilome-
other and are served by buses every 10 min-
tres to the south of the Longteng Bay Park
Mingsheng
utes or so. To get there, take a train from
Temple
(Lóngd�ngw n G ngyu�n).
To Ruifang (5km);
Keelung (15km)
Taipei to Ruifang (fast/slow train NT80/38,
Keelung Bus Company buses stop out-
40/60 minutes, every 30 minutes). Pick up a
side the park every hour or so (NT70,
Kite
Museum 4
ticket (NT100) to the Gold Ecological Park
20 minutes).
102
at the visitor centre in the train station and
Within walking distance of the bay park
7-Eleven
102
then cross the main road to catch the bus
is an area described as having the best rock
heading to Jiufen-Jinguashi (you ll pass Jiufen
climbing in northern Taiwan. Check out www
first). Your ticket allows you four rides on
2
1
.geocities.com/Yosemite/1976 for more in-
the bus.
formation and contacts, and also pick up
2
The bus drops you off right at the start of
a copy of Long Dong Trad Climbs by Matt
the Gold Ecological Park in Jinguashi. Return
Robertson. The book is available at various
3
to this spot when you want to go to Jiufen. Get
mountain equipment shops around the Taipei
off at the bus stop by the 7-Eleven. Jishan St
Train Station.
Shengming
begins just across the street.
Temple
Fushan
Temple
YENLIAO
Chinshan
Temple SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
This is northern Taiwan s longest beach (Y�nli�o;
Bafan Gold Site Teahouse ........................................1 B2
3
adult/child NT180/90; %8am-6pm) and we re always
City of Sadness ....................................................2 B2
Jiufen Teahouse ...........................................................3 B2 surprised that it doesn t get the same buzz as
Fulong. Facilities at the beach include a gar-
TRANSPORT
den area as you enter, a children s water park,
Jiufen Bus Stop ..................................................................4 C2
a caf�, showers and changing rooms.
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
NORTHERN TAIWAN
Juichin Hwy
Shuchi Rd
Jishan St
pien Rd
Chingpien
Ching
Rd
160 NORTHEAST COAST " " Ful ong Beach Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com l onel ypl anet. com NORTHEAST COAST " " Daxi (Mi yuewan) 161
To get to Yenliao Beach, take a train to period. The festival is free and features local buffalo to observe and a few boulder-sized Normally though, Honeymoon Bay is a
Fulong (fast/slow train NT132/85, 60/80 min- and international bands (though so far no- historical tablets. fine location for beginner and intermedi-
utes, every 30 minutes), 5km to the south, body big). Being a long-weekend concert the In 1807 the government in Taiwan built ate surfers, though for more experienced
and then a taxi. Alternatively, catch any bus exact date changes each year, and sudden can- the Caoling Trail (C ol ng G dąo) to pro- surfers this means that during peak season
heading up the coast. cellations or rescheduling may occur because vide transport between Danshui and Ilan. The you will be sharing the waters with a lot of
of typhoons. The official website (www.alluni 8.5km section that remains today is one of the people who don t know what they are doing.
FULONG BEACH .com.tw/hahaiyan/) is all in Chinese, though few historical roads left in Taiwan. And we mean a lot, as surfing has really
The most popular beach (Fślóng H ish i Yłch ng; this may change. In any case, the English- In recent years, a long addition was made hit Taiwan big time in the past few years,
admission NT50; hMay-Oct) in northern Taiwan language newspapers always report on the to the trail called the Taoyuan Valley Trail ( and there isn t a lot of emphasis on skills
is also one of the best and easiest to get to. festival, as does the Youth Travel in Taiwan ; T�oyu�ng Błdąo). Taoyuan Valley and etiquette.
Fulong has a long sandy beach and clear wa- website (http://youthtravel.tw/web/index is not a valley but an emerald grassy bluff, You can surf at Honeymoon Bay all year
ters suitable for sailing, windsurfing, surfing .php). kept trim by the water buffalo. It s stunningly round, with only a swimsuit needed from
and other sports. In recent years the town of beautiful up here and makes a prime spot for April to November. Throughout the late
Fulong has seen some aesthetic improvements Sleeping & Eating picnicking. With the addition of the Taoyuan spring and summer months (and now in-
(some buildings have actually had a fresh coat Longmen Riverside Camping Resort ( ; Valley Trail section, the entire Caoling Trail is creasing into the autumn months too), you ll
of paint applied), and the beach area is get- Lóngm�n Lły�n Q ; %02-2499 1791; 4-person site incl tent about 16km long and takes five to eight hours find a number of shops and kiosks on the
ting new wooden boardwalks, pavilions, treed from NT800, 2-/4-person cabins NT2300/3500) This 37- to complete. beach renting surfing equipment (NT600
parks and open-air restaurants. All in all, the hectare camp site by the Shuangshi River has The entire trail is broad and simple to per day for boards), and selling things to
town is starting to shape up into a community accommodation for up to 1600 people. There follow, with signposts and maps, though eat and drink. Note that the boards for rent
that s on a par with its natural resources. are tent sites and A-frame log cabins. Camp- it certainly is strenuous in places. There is are pretty low quality.
Note that there are two parts to the beach, ing is a bit pricey for sure, but two groups not the slightest danger of getting lost, but To get to Daxi, take a train (NT104, 90
divided by the Shuangshi River. The left beach, with their own small tents can rent one site for do save the walk for the autumn, winter minutes, every two hours) from Taipei.
behind the visitor centre, is the pay area. If you NT600. Note that there is an additional fee of or spring months. You ll roast at the top When you get off at Daxi, cross the road
head right and go through the YMCA grounds NT70 per person to enter the camp site. during summer. and walk south about 600m along the sea-
and continue towards a large temple on the The site is well laid out and facilities are There are many ways to tackle this trail, wall to reach the beach.
end of a peninsula, you ll get to the free beach, clean and modern. Bicycles, barbecues and so get a map from the Fulong visitor cen- One place where English is spoken is the
which is a great place to swim or surf and is rowboats are available for hire. To get to the tre to plan which route is best for you. You Spider Surf Club (%978 1321; www.spidersurfing
reasonably clean in summer. camp site from Fulong train station, exit the need not do the entire trail, but if you do, .com; 96 Binghai Rd, sec.5; 5 96 ), which
station and turn left at the main road (the we like starting at Daxi (the trailhead is offers surfing lessons (including room and
Dangers & Annoyances highway). Just past the visitor centre a dedi- clearly marked just north of the train sta- board NT3000) and dorm accommodation
The beach is officially closed after October cated lane runs along the highway to the cam- tion) and working our way back to Fulong. (NT300) on weekends. It also has showers
but people still go there to surf and swim. pground, making it quite safe to walk. It takes There are trains from Taipei to Daxi (NT104, (NT50) if you just want to rinse off after a
Note that the beach is usually pretty dirty at about 10 minutes to walk to the campground 90 minutes, every two hours). day at the beach. When you exit the train
this time unless a crew has been in to clean from the station. There are plenty of restau- If you want to spend the night in the station, the club is just to the left on the
it up recently. rants, cafes, lunch-box shops and convenience elaborate and sprawling Tiengong Temple ( other side of the street.
The currents at Fulong can be treacher- stores around the train station. By the temple ; Ti ng ng Mi�o; %03-978 1075), stop in Dali If you wish to camp, you can use the
ous in places, especially where the river flows near the free beach are several good seafood ( ), about midway on the trail (though grounds of the elementary school behind
into the sea. The beach is also constantly places sharing an outdoor patio. you must walk down to reach the temple). the beach on nonschool days. The school
changing; it lost a lot of sand a few years Room charge is by donation. charges NT300 a site. Classrooms can also
back to a typhoon. Fortunately, it is coming Getting There & Away be rented for NT1000. Talk to the janitor.
back nicely. Trains from Taipei to Fulong (fast/slow train DAXI (MIYUEWAN)
The Environmental Protection Agency NT132/85, 60/80 minutes) leave every 30 WAI-AO
%03 / pop 500
(EPA) recommends that people do not swim minutes or so. There s not much to recommend in Daxi Wai-ao (Wąi-ąo) is a small village on the
several days after a typhoon as many con- (Dąx ) itself, but just south of town is a coast that has become a popular surfing
taminants get washed into the sea from the CAOLING (TSAOLING) HISTORIC TRAIL popular surfing beach known as Honeymoon venue in recent years. The surf is rough here
land. During summer, the EPA makes regular Bay ( ; M�yuŁ W n). The beach used and not really suitable for swimming or be-
announcements about the water quality here If you can only do one hike during your stay to be a popular hang-out for foreign beach ginner surfers. Trains from Taipei (NT117,
and at other beaches. in Taiwan, make it this one, which runs along bums, but has become less so in recent times 100 minutes) leave every two hours or so.
the rugged coastal mountains from Fulong to as the surfing scene has pretty much taken
Festivals Daxi. The first sections of the trail take you over and the quality of the beach itself dete- LION S KINGDOM MUSEUM & LEO
Every July, Fulong is the host of the Hohaiyan through thick woodlands and scrub, which riorates year after year. The waves are gener- RESORT
Music Festival. Now in its eighth year, the fes- are pleasant enough, but it s the many, many ally chest to head high, though during the
tival has grown from a small indie event into kilometres along high grassy bluffs overlook- summer typhoon months they can get much Despite the name making it sound like a Dis-
the largest outdoor concert in Taiwan, attract- ing the Pacific that make this hike such a treas- higher than that and conditions can become ney theme park, this museum (H�d ngt�ng Sh zi
ing hundreds of thousands over a three-day ure. To top things off, there are wild grazing quite challenging. Bówłgu n; admission NT180) has a fantastic private
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
NORTHERN TAIWAN
162 NORTHEAST COAST " " Tur tl e Isl and (Kuei shan Isl and) l onel ypl anet. com l onel ypl anet. com NORTHEAST COAST " " Ji aoshi 163
collection of stone lions of every shape, size, advance for a special permit if you wish to JIAOSHI the Jiaoshi government. There are free foot-
colour and country of origin. Most are at land on the island. (If you simply wish to sail soaking tubs outside, and very lovely wood
%03 / pop 5000
least a hundred years old, and some are far, around it you don t need a permit.) You can Jiaoshi is a small town just off the coast well and stone segregated pools inside (clothing
far older than that. The collection numbers download a copy of the application form, but known for its three-layered waterfall, hot optional). To get to the pools, head straight
around 6000 pieces and at least 500 are on only from the Chinese section of the north- springs and related cuisine (they grow veg- up the road from the train station. Turn left
display, in addition to some stone horses, east coast s website (www.necoast-nsa.gov etables in hot spring water here). It s close on Hwy 9 (the second road up) and then
turtles and old decorative window frames. .tw). Once you get your permit, call a boat enough to Taipei for a day trip, though with take the first right. The hot springs are on
This is really a must-see for anyone inter- operator to make a reservation. Here s one two dozen or so hot spring hotels, and count- the left a few blocks up.
ested in Asian art. to try: %978 0870. less restaurants and caf�s, you can easily make
The museum occupies two floors of the Boats leave from Wushih Harbour (W sh� it an overnighter or even stay a weekend. HIKING
splendid seaside Leo Resort (L u Ha y�ng Dłjią G ng). It costs NT600 for a 1�-hour cruise The 6.5km historic Paoma Gudao ( ;
Zh ngx n; %03-987 0782; 36 Binhai Rd, sec.4, Toucheng; to and around the island, and NT1000 for a Orientation & Information P om G dąo), or Running Horse Historic
4 36 ; d/tw from NT6300/9900, weekdays three-hour tour that includes a stop on the Jiaoshi is fairly compact and you can walk Trail, trots over the grassy slopes high above
NT5600/8800), where we would gladly spend a island (though hopefully not as long as that around most of the hot-springs area in an Jiaoshi. The trailhead is 3km from the train
major birthday or anniversary. Set off the more famous three-hour tour, Gilligan s Is- hour. There s a helpful visitor centre (%987 station. It s best to take a taxi as the trail
road, next to a protected stretch of coastline, land). Combination tours involving stops on 2403; 16 Gongyuan Rd; h9am-5pm; i) a 10-minute is one-way, and there s no point doing the
the five-storey hotel overlooks the ocean and the island and whale-watching are also avail- walk from the train station. Pick up some road section twice. Paoma Gudao is wide,
includes a full view of Turtle Island from the able (NT1400, 4� hours). brochures, as there s a lot more in the area clear, smooth and simple to follow. On the
dining room. Down by the seaside there s To get to Wushih Harbour, take a train than we can cover, or check out the website way back just keep heading down and you
a lush green garden, a saltwater pool and from Taipei to Toucheng (fast/slow train for Ilan County (http://svr2.ilccb.gov.tw/ready will reach Jiaoshi and probably a hot-spring
various wooden decks overlooking the sea NT189/122, 1�/two hours, every 30 minutes) ilan/e-sitemap.asp). hotel will catchs your eye as a place to soak
(but protected from the tide by high rocks). and then a short taxi ride. From the station, head up the road and your tired bones.
There are also hammocks in the trees, a nice, Call the English Tourist Hotline (%0800-011 765) take the first right. Walk a few blocks until
all-too-rare touch in Taiwan. or Northeast Coast Scenic Administration (%02-2499 the road joins Hwy 9. Cross and then take a Getting There & Around
By the end of 2007 the hotel will offer 1115) for more information. quick left. The centre is just up the road. There Trains to Jiaoshi (Chiaoshi; fast/slow train
genuine hot-spring water in both the rooms is usually someone there who speaks English, NT205/132, 1�/2 hours) leave Taipei about
and the outdoor swimming pool. Room rates PEI KUAN CRAB MUSEUM but it s always good to call ahead to confirm every half hour.
include admission to the museum, break- this if you think you will need their services. You can rent scooters outside the train
fast, afternoon coffee and dinner. The food After our respectful review of the Lion s King- There s free internet at the centre. station (NT300 to NT600) with an Interna-
is delicious and very fresh: the seafood, for dom Museum (p161), you d be forgiven for tional Driver s Licence.
example, is delivered daily from the nearby expecting this crab museum (P�ngxiŁ Bówłgu n; Sights & Activities
Wushih Fishing Harbour. to be WUFENGCHI WATERFALL LUODONG (LOTONG)
%03-977 2168; admission NT250; h9am-5pm)
Note that nonguests can also stop by for a a slapstick afterthought. A crab museum? Almost directly in line with Turtle Island is
%03 / pop 73,196
meal or just a coffee down by the sea. What s up with that? the Wufengchi Waterfall (W f ngch� Płbł). Not far south of Jiaoshi, this small town
If you are taking public transport, Well, a lot actually. Two floors, in fact, de- There are three layers and each one is more (Lód ng) has put itself on the map with its
catch a train to Toucheng (fast/slow train voted to the dozens of crab species found in impressive than the last. massively popular children s festival and a
NT189/122, 1�/two hours, every 30 minutes) Taiwan. The first floor exhibits whole crab ex- The falls are 3.5km northwest of the Jia- new centre dedicated to reviving traditional
and then a taxi, which should cost around teriors, and the sheer range of colours, shapes oshi train station ( ). There is arts in Taiwan.
NT150 to NT200 for the 10-minute drive. and sizes is astonishing  and at times plain no public transport to the falls so you must Every summer for four to five weeks in
creepy. The horseshoe crab, for instance, has walk or catch a taxi (NT150). July and August, Ilan County plays host to
TURTLE ISLAND (KUEISHAN ISLAND) a dark slick cover that looks uncomfortably the Ilan International Children s Folklore & Folk-
like the shell of the monster in Alien. HOT SPRINGS game Festival ( ; Guój� Tóngwąn
This captivating volcanic islet (G ish n D o), There are English signs for each category of Jiaoshi is one of the few hot-spring towns Y�shł Ji�; 0720; www.folkgame.org.tw; adult/child
%931
10km off the coast of Ilan, is less than 3km crab though not for each species. Kids will love developed by the Japanese that has not been NT450/200), where top children s performers
long yet rises up to 400m and supports 13 spe- it here, as will anyone with even a mild interest overdeveloped to the point where there sim- and performing troops are brought in from
cies of butterflies and 33 species of birds. in the natural world. The price is very steep ply isn t enough water for all the businesses around the world. For families this is a
The island also has numerous quirky geo- because it includes access to the Pei Kuan that claim to use it. The springs produce must-see event. The festival is held in Chin-
logical features. These include underwater Farm. Come during the spring months when salty, odourless water at 60�C, known to be shui Park ( ; Q nshu G ngyu�n),
hot springs that turn the offshore water into fireflies light up the riverbeds and walkways. good for countering nervousness and general which has facilities for rowing, wading and
a bubbling cauldron, volcanic fumaroles that The museum is up a side road a few kilo- feelings of malaise. getting wet and wild in summer.
spout steam, and a  turtle head that faces metres off Hwy 2 south of the 131km mark. In general, we recommend the places west The National Centre of Traditional Arts (
right or left depending on where you stand There are signs in English on the highway, of Hwy 9 heading towards the mountains. ; Guól� Chu�nt ng Y�shł Zh ngx n;
on shore. though none on the way up, but just look for An inexpensive option is the new stylish pub- %960 5230, ext 164; www.ncfta.gov.tw; admission free;
Turtle Island is open from March to Oc- the crab pictures. It s best to have your own lic spring park ( ; T ngw�ig u G ngyu�n; occupies 24 hectares along the
h9am-9pm; i)
tober. You must apply at least two weeks in transport to get here. scenic Tongshan River, providing a venue for
%987 4882; admission NT80; h10am-11pm) set up by
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
NORTHERN TAIWAN
164 SUAO TO HUALIEN " " Suao l onel ypl anet. com l onel ypl anet. com SUAO TO HUALIEN " " Nanao 165
(www.gmes.tpc.edu.tw/~2000/en/html/jyes/ tracing boots as the trail takes you to the top
THE HSUEHSHAN TUNNEL
jyes3.htm) introducing the area. We guess the of the falls and there s no way down. Instead
At 12.9km, this tunnel (Xu sh n Słidąo) is the longest in Asia and the fourth longest in the
locals know they have a good thing going and you must walk back 100m or so and take a side
world. It s also had one of the longest periods of construction  when it finally opened in June
want to share it. trail down to the riverbed and then trace your
2006, work on the tunnel had been underway since 1991.
way back upstream to the falls and the lovely
The tunnel is the centrepiece of the 55km-long National Hwy 5 connecting Taipei with Ilan
Sights & Activities pool under them, which is a simple enough
County. It was supposed to open up the east coast, but along the way it opened an ancient
JINYUE WATERFALL matter with the proper shoes.
aquitard and the water just kept on pouring out. Boring machines were flooded and buried,
The turnoff for the road to the falls (J nyuŁ
work slowed to a halt for months on end, and at many points engineers wondered if they should
Płbł) is around the 133km mark on Hwy FOUR PARTS HOT SPRINGS
consider giving up.
9. After you cross the bridge you ll reach the These alkalescent carbonate hot springs (S�q
They persevered, but at the cost of US$1.8 billion and 25 lives. Was it worth it? Hwy 5 facilitates
school for the 200-soul aboriginal commu- W nqu�n) have water temperatures around
fast travel from Nangan in Taipei County to Suao in Ilan County. When it s not backed up (all the
nity of Jin-yue. Turn left and follow the road 45�C. To get to them, follow the directions
way from Nangan to Suao), the highway cuts travelling time down to a third of what it once was.
for a few kilometres. When you pass the sec- for Jinyue Waterfall, but when you reach the
While letting people rush to Jiaoshi in 30 minutes for an evening dip in a hot spring may seem
ond bridge, the road to the right leads to the junction at the school, go right and follow the
a frivolous waste of money and life, the highway and tunnel will doubtless save lots of both in
falls in 10 minutes. river up. Two or 3km later you ll see a sign
the future: the old tortuous route was the scene of countless fatal accidents.
The main reason to come to this fall is to in English for the springs. From the road,
If you decide to drive Hwy 5 and pass through the tunnel, avoid early mornings and evenings,
swim in the pool under it. You ll need river- follow rough steps down to the river to find
especially on weekends and summer days. The best windows for smooth sailing are between
0 800 m
10am and 4pm and after 8pm.
NANAO
0 0.5 miles
To Four Parts
Hot Springs
(2km)
the research and performance of folk music, the road didn t officially reopen for public
opera, dance, toy making and even acrobatics. use until 1932.
Jin-Yue
For visitors there is an exhibition hall, a learn- Most people drive the highway on their
Village
ing centre, a temple especially built to help way to Hualien and only stop to look at the
To Jinyue
Waterfall
preserve temple-related arts, and a folk-arts scenery. If you re a spring aficionado, con-
9
(2km)
street where you can browse for glassware, sider a break in Suao for a cold spring, and
paper cuttings and glove puppets in a recre- then another in Nanao for a hot spring.
ated traditional township atmosphere.
Trains to Luodong (fast/slow train SUAO
Nanao
NT243/157, 1�/2� hours) leave Taipei
%03 / pop 44, 487
about every half hour. Once in Luodong, it s Suao is a grubby little port town noted only
a short taxi ride to the arts centre or water for the Suao Cold Springs ( ; S a� L ng
park. During festival times shuttle buses run Qu�n; %996 0645; admission NT70; h8am-10pm). The
between the train station and both sites. carbonated springs have an average tempera-
ture of 22�C and are completely odourless,
Turtle
Mountain
making them a rare treasure in the world.
(182m)
SUAO TO HUALIEN The large outdoor facilities have been up-
dated to look somewhat like a Roman bath.
Just past Luodong, Hwy 9 rejoins the coast and It gets pretty busy here in summer.
begins what is known as the Suao Hualien There are about 10 trains a day from Taipei
Nan-Ao
Hwy. The road stretches for 118km along the (fast/slow NT273/176, two/2� hours).
Recreation
Wuta Farm
coastline and is literally carved into sheer cliff
walls. One of the most breathtaking sections is NANAO
called the Chingshui cliffs, where the highway
%03 / pop 500
twists its way around towering walls of marble The small coastal town of Nanao (N�nąo) has
and granite that loom over 1000m above the a pretty crescent bay and dark sandy beach
rocky seashore. visible from the highway as you make your
The beginnings of the route go back to descent from the hills. It s a lovely beach for
1874, when China s Qing government or- strolling along (though it s sometimes littered)
dered a road to be built along the east coast, and taking in the gorgeous coastal scenery.
P A C I F I C
with the aim of alleviating some of the iso- If you have time for more, Nanao has more,
9 O C E A N
lation of the region. The Japanese widened including hot springs, waterfalls, hikes and
the road in 1920, battling with landslides some quiet country roads for biking. Amaz-
and earthquakes the whole time. In fact, ingly there is an English website in English
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
o
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NORTHERN TAIWAN
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a
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R
R
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166 NORTH CROSS-ISLAND HIGHWAY Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com l onel ypl anet. com NORTH CROSS-ISLAND HIGHWAY " " Ci hu 167
three simple concrete pools under a simple store and a night market near the town widened these days, in some places there is SHIMEN RESERVOIR
roof. Though it would be nicer if the structure square. Jin-yue Village also has simple places only enough room for one car. This reservoir (Sh�m�n Shu kł; http://shihmenreservoir
were a little more natural looking, it is still a to eat. .wranb.gov.tw; adult/child NT80/40) is the largest body
pleasant place for a free soak and a great way Information of fresh water in the north. In the past, when
to meet local people. Some people camp on Getting There & Away The Pei Herng Travel Service Centre (Cihu Service there were few areas for outdoor leisure in
the riverbank just behind the springs. There are five trains in the morning from Suao Centre; 3552; just off Taiwan, the dam was deservedly popular for
%03-388 h8.30am-5pm),
Afterwards, continue down to the end of to Wuta Train Station (NT62, 45 minutes). Hwy 7 at the back of a large car park, cov- the beauty of its dark green hills and green-
the road and head down to the Nanao North ers Taoyuan County and sights along the blue water, its numerous scenic pavilions and
River. When the grey muddy water is low North Cross-Island Hwy. The centre is half well laid-out parks. There s no doubting its
(it s a grey colour as a result of quarrying far NORTH CROSS-ISLAND a kilometre before the turn-off for the tomb appeal, but today it s hardly a must-see desti-
upstream) you can easily walk on the sandy of Chiang Kai-shek (to which you can walk nation, especially as it doesn t look as though
banks and over the colourful boulders. The HIGHWAY from the centre). It really depends on who it s had an update in the 11 years we have
scenery is really splendid here, especially as is working as to whether you ll get helpful lived in Taiwan.
the river takes a bend into a canyon whose If you re looking for wild scenery but want a information or not. The tourist service centre (%03-471 2000;
walls rise up steeply for hundreds of metres. change of pace from coastal waters and rug- Taipei Day Trips II (see Hiking, p329 )
h8.30am-5pm) on the far western side of the
ged shorelines, try a journey down National has an informative write-up about much lake has booklets in English about the dam,
CYCLING Hwy 7, also known as the North Cross-Island of the highway, including a number of very and there are large maps around the dam with
Even if you have your own vehicle, Nanao is Hwy (B ibł H�ngguąn G nglł). interesting hikes that are too detailed for us clear directions to parks and trails.
a great place for cycling. On both sides of the The highway starts in the old Taoyuan to include.
highway, towards the ocean or into the moun- County town of Daxi (not to be confused FUSING (FUHSING, FUXING)
tains, you ll find quiet country roads (espe- with the Ilan County town on the north- Getting There & Around
%03 / pop 1000
cially midweek). Down by the rivers there are east coast), famous for its excellent d�ug n To begin your journey by bus, you need The aboriginal village of Fusing (Fłx ng),
many rough dirt paths. Get out and explore. (firm tofu) and the Qing-dynasty fa�ades on to get to Daxi ( ; Dąx ) first. Take the 18km down Hwy 7 from Daxi, makes for an
You can rent bikes at the Nan-ao Recrea- Heping St. At first the road winds through MRT to Ximen Station and take exit 2. Walk excellent pit stop, or an even better base from
tion Farm for NT300 a day. the countryside, passing flower farms and south to Guiyang St and turn left. Cross the which to explore the whole area. You can stay
settlements, including the burial grounds road and just past Yanping Rd wait at the (or at least have a coffee) at the new Youth
KAYAKING of former leader Chiang Kai-shek. After bus stop in front of Soochow University. Activity Centre, the site of a former summer
The coastal waters here are known for ex- passing above Shimen Reservoir, the largest Catch the Taipei Daxi bus (NT104, one villa of Chiang Kai-shek. In town, you can get
cellent sea kayaking and the Nanao North body of water in northern Taiwan, the road hour, every 30 minutes) to the Taoyuan Bus solid, aboriginal-style food, such as t j (
River is a popular spot for river kayaking. narrows and starts to rise and wind its way Company ( ; %03-388 2002) station in free-range chicken), zhśt ng fąn ( ;
Contact Andre at Cloud 9 in Pinglin (p150) along steep gorges, across precipitously high Daxi. This is the last stop. rice steamed in bamboo tubes) and a variety
for more information. bridges and, in general, through some pretty From here you can catch buses as far as of noodle dishes served with the mushrooms
fantastic mountain scenery. Xiao Wulai, but be warned that there are for which Fusing is famous.
Sleeping & Eating At Chilan, the highway descends suddenly fewer and fewer buses running these routes, The Youth Activity Centre ( ;
Nan-Ao Recreation Farm ( ; N�nąo and an hour later enters the flood plains of so it s best to call the Taoyuan Bus Company Q ngni�n Huód�ng Zh ngx n; %382 2276; d/tw incl break-
Nóngch ng; 1114; http://nanao-farm.e-land.gov the Lanyang River. It then continues north- to confirm the schedule. It s so much better fast NT2600/3200) sits in a pretty, landscaped park
%988
.tw/html/link2.htm; tent sites from NT200) This large, east to Ilan, with spur routes to Luodong to have your own vehicle. Consider renting on a high ridge overlooking an arm of Shimen
clean, green and well-run camp site has and Wuling Forest Recreation Area. a car in Taipei or a scooter in Jiaoshi. Reservoir. The land was formerly occupied by
showers, bathrooms, barbecue sites and lots You can drive the highway in four or five one of Chiang Kai-shek s summer villas (it
of trees for shade. It s just south of the cen- hours, but there are many great stops lead- CIHU burned down in 1992), which should clue you
tre of Nanao town. ing to waterfalls, caves, forest reserves, hot Cihu (C�hś; Lake Kindness) is a quiet, scenic in to the fact that it s incredibly scenic here.
If driving south turn left after crossing the springs and stands of ancient trees. It s best park where the remains of Chiang Kai-shek s The centre has large, simply furnished
bridge, around the 134.5km mark. Follow to have your own transport, as buses are few body are temporarily entombed. In the past rooms with balcony lookouts. Views from
the road down about 1km to the obvious and far between. we could hardly recommend people go here, the rooms and the patio of the coffee shop (coffee
camp site entrance (NT60 entrance fee). The entire highway can literally become but how time changes this country. Starting & tea NT100; h7am-10.30pm) are postcard perfect.
If you are taking the train, note that you a car park during Chinese New Year and on in 2006, Chiang statues have been shipped Room 404 has one of the best views in the
should get off at the station past Nanao, hot summer weekends. Late autumn and here as part of the DPP government s de- whole building. You can pick up a brochure
called Wuta. This is a little nothing of a sta- winter are especially good times to go as the Chiangification of Taiwan. And there are lots in English at the centre that highlights attrac-
tion without even a ticket booth. Head down- crowds are thin and the sights seem improved of statues, as any dictator worth their salt cre- tions in the area.
hill to the highway and turn right. Cross the by the chill and mist in the air. If you drive, ates a cult of personality through the constant On a small bluff to the right of the centre
bridge and follow the directions above. The be very aware of both other drivers and the repetition of their name and image. (head to the back of the parking lot and then
distance from the station is about 2km. natural hazards. This road defines curvy and Regardless of where you stand on the issue, down the wooden stairs) is Senling Shui An
There are many small noodle shops and treacherous, and some part of the surface Cihu is now a veritable wonderland of Chi- ( ; S nl�n Shu Ąn; %382 2108; coffee NT100;
restaurants in Nanao beside the highway. is always under repair due to typhoons and ang statues of all shapes, sizes and materials.
h9am-9pm), a small wood-cabin coffee shop
There s also a 7-Eleven, a small grocery landslides. While much of the road is being Expect to take lots of pictures. run by an aboriginal family. The view here is
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
NORTHERN TAIWAN
168 NORTH CROSS-ISLAND HIGHWAY " " Dongyanshan Forest Recreati on Area l onel ypl anet. com NORTH CROSS-ISLAND HIGHWAY " " Wul i ng Forest Recreati on Area (Wul i ng Farm) 169
even more incredible than at the centre and ( ; L l sh n Guóy L�n MA-KOU ECOLOGICAL PARK follow Hwy 7 to the fork. Turn left and when
the coffee is much better. The owner speaks Z�r�n B ohłq ; %391 2761; h6am-5pm), which con- If you continue down Hwy 7 past Mingchih, you get to the village of Yingshi ( ) don t
English and used to be a pub singer. If there tains a stand of ancient cypress trees. The you ll see a gated road called No 100 Forest cross the bridge but take the side path to the
are enough people at the caf�, or he likes you, village is about an hour s drive from Fusing Rd. This leads into an ecological park (M gąo right. Park and follow the river up a kilometre
he will take out his guitar and play. and can be disturbingly crowded on summer Sh ntąi G ngyu�n) with a stand of ancient or so. The way up is flat and easy and the walk
weekends and holidays. This is definitely a red cypress trees. You need permits to enter takes about 30 minutes.
DONGYANSHAN FOREST RECREATION place to keep for a quiet winter weekday. the park, which essentially means you need to
AREA The way to the old tree area is clearly des- go with a tour organised by the forest reserve Sleeping & Eating
About 1km past Fusing is the turn-off for this ignated from Upper Baling. In the reserve (room guest NT660, others NT869). The tours Mingchih has cottages (from NT3200, 20%
916-hectare forest recreation area (D ngy nsh n itself, a 3.7km path winds through the forest are in Chinese, but the majestic old growth weekday discounts) set among tall cedar trees.
S nl�n YóulŁyu�n; http://recreate.forest.gov.tw). There are and each tree is specially marked to indicate forest speaks all languages. Inquire at the front Try to get a room away from the highway
no buses, but if you have your own vehicle it s its age, species, height and diameter. There desk for times and to make reservations. though, as trucks come by at all times of day
a pretty 13km drive up a good road to the tour- are over 100 old trees, the oldest reported to or night and can disturb your sleep. An OK
ist centre (%03-382 1506; h8am-5pm), where you be 2800 years old! HOT SPRINGS restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner
can buy simple meals and maps for the area. To get to the reserve, exit Hwy 7 onto There are numerous hot springs within a short (average meal NT250).
The park s altitude ranges from 650m to County Rd 116 at the village of (lower) Baling drive of Mingchih. There are developed ones
1200m, making it a perfect cool retreat in ( ; B l�ng). Pay your entrance fee (NT100) at Renze ( ), on the way up to Taip- Getting There & Away
summer. There are many trails, some of which at the tollbooth, continue up a very steep road ingshan, and at Jiaoshi, but there are also some Private buses to Mingchih (NT250, 1� hours)
are nature interpretation walks suitable for to Upper Baling and then go on to a parking natural ones. Here s are some good ones. leave from the back of the Ilan (Yilan) train
families, while many others involve two- to lot at the end of the road (about 13km from the station at 12pm daily (returning 5.30pm).
three-hour hikes up small mountains. The turn-off on Hwy 7). The trail starts here and Sileng Hot Spring You must call (%03-989 4106) to make a
longest hike is along a 16km trail that actually there s a small exhibition hall (h9am-6pm) where What is it about the cross-island highways reservation. Ilan is on the east coast just south
connects Dongyanshan with neighbouring you can pick up maps and information. Note and their abundant hot springs? Whatever it is of Jiaoshi.
Manyueyuan Forest Recreation Area (p153). that there are no longer any buses to Baling. we are grateful. This particular natural spring If you want to rent a car in Ilan call Shang Xin
All trails start near the tourist centre and are From the reserve it is possible to hike all (S�l�ng W nqu�n) is down a steep ravine. The Car Rental (%03-935 7777). It does pick-ups from
well marked and easy to follow. the way downhill to Fushan ( ; Fśsh n; spring water pours and seeps down from the the train station and the staff speak English.
six hours) near Wulai on the Fu-Ba Trail ( cliffs (stained a multitude of colours from the
XIAO WULAI WATERFALL ; Fś-b YuŁl ng). This is part of the minerals) into a small rock pool set above a WULING FOREST RECREATION AREA
National Trail System (see Hiking, p329). rushing river. (WULING FARM)
Of the four big falls in northern Taiwan  There are numerous B&Bs in the area should To get here, head west from Mingchih ex- %04
Wufengchi, Shifen, Wulai and this one  we you want to stay the night. Note that the Bal- actly 7.1km (to around the 59.5km mark). As Most people feel that the North Cross-Is-
have to say that the 40m-high Xiao Wulai ing area is famous for its peaches and pears, you go right, round a sharp bend that juts out land Hwy ends around Chilan, a small
(Xi o W l�i Płbł) is our favourite. Like but don t buy them as high mountain fruit into the ravine, you ll see a small spot on the forest reserve, but it actually continues
Wufengchi and Wulai, this fall is long and farming is a scourge on the environment. left to park. Park and then look for the faded south to Lishan and north to Ilan. If you
cascading, but unlike the other two you can signs for  hot spring ( ) on the cement want to continue your exploration of Tai-
view Xiao Wulai from a ridge almost half a MINGCHIH FOREST RECREATION barrier. When you see it cross the barrier; wan s rugged mountains, head north.
kilometre away. The sweeping scene of steep AREA there s a trail starting on the other side. Fol- Not far south down the road is the turn-
mountain peaks and the long waterfall bears This reserve (M�ngch� S nl�n Yóuq� Q ; %03-989 4104; low the trail down for 40 minutes or so till off to Taipingshan National Forest Recreation
a remarkable likeness to the famous Song- adult/child NT150/75) makes for a great base for you reach the river. The springs are obvious Area ( ; Tąip�ngsh n
dynasty landscape Travellers in Mountains exploration, or a retreat from the relentless on the other side. Guóji S nl�n YóulŁ Q ; http://recreate.forest.gov.tw/forest
and Streams. heat of summer in the city. Mingchih lies be- Note that as you hike down, the trail seems .php?init=05&char=en&forest=1; adult/child NT150/100),
If you are driving, the sign for the turn-off tween 1000m and 1700m and so even in July to run flat for quite a while. Note also that you where you ll find hot springs, a small moun-
to the falls is just past the 20.5km mark. Two the average temperature is only 20�C. If you must cross the river at the end, so don t go tain train, a few trails and a pretty lake.
kilometres up County Rd 115 you ll run into want to get out and see the sites, there are a after heavy rain. River shoes will be helpful. About 1� hours further south down Hwy 7
a tollbooth charging entrance (NT50) into the couple of wild hot springs nearby and a stand itself is Wuling Forest Recreation Area, better
waterfall scenic area. The ridge lookout and of ancient trees, and the old trees at Baling are Fan Fan Hot Spring known as Wuling Farm (W l�ng Nóngch ng; admission
the start of the trails are just a few metres past only an hour s drive away, too. This spring (Fąn Fąn W nqu�n) is a lot easier NT160). The farm (elevation 1740m to 2200m)
the tollbooth. Further down the road are some to get to than Sileng, which means that on was originally established in 1963 as a fruit-
nice swimming holes and a somewhat messy Sights & Activities weekends you ll be sharing the place with the growing area by retired soldiers. It became
campground with hot springs. MINGCHIH (LAKE MING) EQ-challenged who drive their 4WD vehicles part of Sheipa National Park in 1992. By the
There s not much in the reserve itself except a up the river. time you read this there will be little farming
UPPER BALING pleasant little pond (M�ngch�) across the high- The spring is an alkali bicarbonate one, left in the reserve as new land-use laws finally
way that s very popular with ducks. Strolling which is said to be good for the skin. The water take effect.
%03 / pop 300
This tiny aboriginal village (Shąng B l�ng) around when you first wake up is a great way is full of calcium and magnesium and you can Many travellers come to Wuling to climb
is famous for the Lalashan Forest Reserve to start the day. drink it. To get to the springs from Mingchih, Snow Mountain, Taiwan s second-highest
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
NORTHERN TAIWAN
170 NORTH CROSS-ISLAND HIGHWAY " " Wul i ng Forest Recreati on Area (Wul i ng Farm) Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com HSINCHU TO SANYI " " Hsi nchu 171
mountain, and in the eyes of many, includ- There s a Travel Service Centre (%2590 1350; to two hours). The second day involves hiking to stay, the cabins here offer decent comfort
ing ours, the most beautiful. But Wuling also but it doesn t have much in- from Chika to 369 Cabin (five to six hours), and nice scenery. Buffet-style meals (NT150
h9am-4.30pm),
makes for a nice weekend getaway, or a cool formation. The Bunbury Map available at the and the third, hiking to the summit (three to to NT350; breakfast, lunch and dinner) are
break from the heat of summer. entrance gate (a treasure for fans of Oscar four hours) and returning to 369 Cabin (two available for guests and nonguests at the
Wilde) is about as good as you ll get. hours). Here, most people rest for a while then hostel s restaurant.
Orientation & Information Online, check out the websites for the forest hike back to the ranger station and their car Besides the buffet meals at the National
There s only one main road through the park, recreation area (http://recreate.forest.gov.tw), (four hours). Hostel, there s a convenience store (h9am-5pm)
with an offshoot to the camping ground. Sheipa National Park (www.spnp.gov.tw) and Maps of the hiking route, in Chinese, are near the visitor centre for instant noodles
Wuling Farm (www.wuling-farm.com.tw). available at the mountain equipment shops and snack foods.
near the Taipei Main Train Station.
WULING FARM
WULING FARM
0 1 km
Sights & Activities Getting There & Away
0 0.5 miles
SNOW MOUNTAIN OTHER HIKING There are two Kuo Kuang Hao buses a day
A B
Many hikers come to Wuling to tackle Snow For the average hiker the park offers short from Ilan to Wuling Forest Recreation Area
To Taoshan
Mountain (Xu Sh n; elevation 3884m). The walks down by the Riverside Park (X b n (NT276, three hours, 7am and 12.40pm).
Waterfall (4.5km)
1 trail takes two to three days to complete (three G ngyu�n) or strolls along newly built paths From Wuling you can continue south to
3
is best), and is broad, clear and well marked, beside the main road. The only longish hike Lishan and transfer to a bus to Taichung.
To Snow Mountain
6
(Syueshan)
with map boards every few kilometres and dis- is to Taoshan Waterfall ( ; T�osh n You could also consider renting a scooter in
Trailhead (2km)
4
tance markers every 100m. Anyone in reason- Płbł; elevation 2500m), 4.5km from the end Jiaoshi (see p163), or a car in Ilan through
ably good shape can do it. There are two rough of the road near the Wuling Mountain Hostel. Shang Xin Car Rental (%03-935 7777).
cabins to stay in on the way up with running The falls are 50m high and well worth the
water, toilets, solar lights and dorm bedding. 90-minute hike.
The best times of year to hike the mountain HSINCHU TO SANYI
are autumn and spring. In late May/early June SALMON
2
the alpine flowers bloom near the top, mak- Wuling Farm is well known for its efforts The Hsinchu Science Park is by far the most
ing this a particularly great time to go. From to preserve the unique Formosan Landlocked famous site in this region, but most travel-
September to December, the weather is driest Salmon ( ; Y nghu G uw n G i), lers come for the high mountains or the
No Buses
and most predictable, and your chances of also known as the masu salmon. Unlike other rural countryside where the old traditions
5 km
having clear skies are best. salmon, these never leave the cool freshwater are still going strong in a few small towns.
To climb the mountain you need a moun- rivers they were born in. At the time of writing There s also a top-quality hot-spring resort
tain permit and a park pass (see p330). Note about 1000 salmon lived in the waters of three out here and a small mist-shrouded moun-
that you must get your mountain permit rivers in Wuling. If conservation measures go tain dotted with temples that you can spend
stamped at the police station at Sheipa Na- as planned, around 5000 should exist in five the night in.
3
tional Park Wuling Station before proceeding years. They will then be introduced into three Hsinchu, Taoyuan and Miaoli Counties
to the ranger station at the trailhead (where more rivers with the goal of having 10,000 or have a heavy concentration of Hakka people,
you show your park pass). so in 10 years. At this point the population and this is reflected in the food you ll find
1
A basic itinerary involves driving from will be considered stable. in many small towns. It s good to familiar-
Taipei (four hours) to the trailhead ranger One place to try to see the salmon is ise yourself with some of the staples before
station and then hiking to Chika Cabin (1� below the Wuling Suspension Bridge (W l�ng heading out (see p59).
Diąoqi�o). Getting around this region is pretty easy.
8
Trains run up and down the coast all day, and
INFORMATION
2 7
Riverside
Police Station ...................................................................(see 1) there is inland bus service to most places.
Sleeping & Eating
Park
4 Sheipa National Park Wuling Station
Camping ground (Lły�ng gu nl zh ngx n; %2590 1265;
........................................................1 A3
sites from NT400) This campground is set high on HSINCHU
Travel Service Centre .......................................2 A4
a gorgeous alpine meadow. There are clean, %03 / pop 386,950
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
modern facilities (including showers and a The oldest city in northern Taiwan, and
Wuling Suspension Bridge ......................................3 B1
H
convenience store), raised camping platforms long a base for traditional industries such as
and sites with parking included. glassmaking and noodles, Hsinchu (X nzhś)
SLEEPING
Buddha
Statue Camping Ground ...............................................4 A1 Wuling Villa (Wuling Mountain Hostel; W l�ngsh n sprang into the modern era in 1980 with the
7 To Ilan
(85km)
Wuling National Hostel .............................................5 A5
Zhu ng; dm/s/d NT480/2130/2280) Run by the Wul- establishment of the Science Park. The park
Wuling Villa ....................................................................6 B1
Toll ing National Hostel, rooms here have sim- has often been described as the Silicon Valley
Gate
5
ple wooden interiors with a minimum of of Taiwan and is the centre of the semicon-
EATING
Convenience Store ......................................................7 A4 ductor industry. Though it s the most famous
furniture. Breakfast (congee and salty eggs)
is included. landmark of the city, the park does not offer
TRANSPORT
5
Wuling National Hostel (W l�ng B ngu n; %2590 much to the average visitor. Nor, to be honest,
To Lishan
Bus Stop ................................................................................8 A4
(25km)
1259; rooms & cabins from NT3420) A pleasant place does Hsinchu itself. We recommend a visit
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
NORTHERN TAIWAN
Toashan West
River
Chijiawan River
Wuling Rd
Wuling
Rd
172 HSINCHU TO SANYI " " Hsi nchu l onel ypl anet. com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com HSINCHU TO SANYI " " Hsi nchu 173
here mostly to see the rich collection of curios town centre, as well as ATMs in 7-Elevens and The science park has an administration centre temples in Taiwan. It also has a lot of very
and antiquities at Guqifeng on the outskirts other convenience stores. (%577 3311; http://eweb.sipa.gov.tw/en/index.jsp; 2 Shinan finely carved statues and wall reliefs, whose
of town. A few other nearby sites help round The Hsinchu Cultural Bureau (%531 9756; www Rd, sec.2; h8am-6pm) where you can get maps quality doesn t take an expert to recognise.
out an afternoon. .hcccb.gov.tw/english/index.asp; 1 Lane 15, Dongda Rd, sec.2; and books about the park. The website is also The temple is most lively during the seventh
Hsinchu is an hour from Taipei on the acts as the city s tourist very informative. lunar month and on the 29th day of the 11th
h9am-5pm Wed-Sun)
train, and it s best taken in as a day trip. centre. The bureau s website now has good month, when the birthday of the temple god
information in English about all the sites in Sights & Activities is celebrated. There s a lively and surprisingly
Orientation & Information the city, including a long list of historical relics GUQIFENG (GUQI MOUNTAIN) well-organised market around the temple sell-
The town centre is small and most sights and places to eat. The Pu Tian Temple complex on the slopes ing all manner of traditional foods.
can be reached on foot. Hsinchu lacks good The tourism bureau s website (http://dep of Guqifeng (G q�f ng; admission free) houses one For more information on these and other
footpaths in many places, but the traffic is -tourism-en.hccg.gov.tw) is also an excellent of the most impressive private collections of important relics, check out the websites
not bad during the day and the constant guide to the city. Check out  Theme Trips artefacts and curios we have seen in Taiwan. listed earlier.
wind (this is the Windy City) keeps air for English maps, but be aware that many of A few standouts include a life-size Chinese
pollution down. the themes, especially the 17km of  glorious bed made out of pure jade, a 6m-long panel MUSEUMS
Hsinchu roads use Hanyu Pinyin for their coastline , are not quite ready for prime time of pure jade high relief, ferocious carved It is not well known, even by many Taiwanese,
Romanisation scheme and almost all roads (the middle third of the way is still a very dragon heads whose mouths you could step that Hsinchu has a long history of glassmak-
are signed. There are plenty of banks in the messy, dirty construction zone). into, several miniature villages carved from ing, nor that in recent years several local art-
wood and a small taxidermy collection of rare ists have gained an international reputation.
0 1 km
Taiwanese mammals. The 40m-high statue of The Municipal Glass Museum (B l� G ngy� Bówłgu n;
HSINCHU
0 0.5 miles
Kuang Kong that squats above the temple is
%562 6091; www.hcgm.gov.tw; 2 Dongda Rd, sec.1; adult/
To Hsinchu Fishing
AC D
B
Harbour (3km)
quite a site too. child NT20/10; h9am-5pm Wed-Sun) was designed in
The Hsinchu government is interested in part to promote and display the active glass
making Guqifeng a flagship attraction in years scene. Informative tours in English are avail-
to come, and we hope they do, as this col- able if you request them in advance (by phone
1
lection deserves a much better venue than it or email).
currently has. Note that the collection is only The museum is situated in Hsinchu Park
H
available for viewing on weekends, though the (X nzhś G ngyu�n), which also features a
temple is always open. Confucius Temple (K ng Miąo; h8.30am-4.30pm Wed-
There are no public buses to Guqifeng. A Sun) and zoo.
taxi will cost around NT200. The Municipal Image Museum (Y nshąng Bówłgu n;
%528 5840; www.hmim.gov.tw; 65 Zhongzheng Rd; adult/
1
RELICS child NT20/10; h9.30am-noon, 1.30-5pm & 6.30-9pm
2 Chinshui Wind
Hsinchu was called Hsinchang by the early Wed-Sun) occupies a stylish old building that
HHHH
HHH
HH
HH
Park Dance
Mall
Chinese settlers who built a bamboo fence was once the first air-conditioned movie thea-
(hsinchang) around the city to protect them- tre in Hsinchu that now serves as a movie
selves from Taiya, Saisha and Pingpu aborigi- relics museum, educational centre and public
Hsinchu
City Hall
Hsinchu Fine
nes. In 1826 a solid brick wall was constructed movie theatre. Movies are shown around 7pm
Arts Museum
around the city. Only one portion of the Wednesday to Friday and at 10am, 2pm and
Public 7
Bus Hub
Canal Around wall remains today, the Eastern Gate (D ng 7pm on Saturday and Sunday. Admission is
6
HHHH
H H
H
HH
H
Dąm�n), but it is in fine shape and a great a low NT20 unless a festival is on.
5
Eastern Gate
2
central landmark.
3 Central The second most famous landmark is the Sleeping
Market Sogo
Mackay
City God Temple (Ch�nghu�ng Miąo). Built in Hsinchu has plenty of hotels that mostly serve
Hospital
1748, it has the highest rank of all the city god the people working at the Science Park.
Stadium
Hsinchu 4 Dong Cheng Hotel (D ngch�ng Dąl shŁ; %522 2648;
Train
H HH
HH
HH
To Taipei (70km);
INFORMATION 1 Lane 5, Fuhou St; 5 1 ; d/tw NT800/1200) A
Station
Kaohsiung (272km)
3 Hsinchu Cultural Bureau ...........................................1 B2
nondescript budget hotel, this place has clean
Hsinchu
Park
good-sized rooms that won t make you wish
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
you d brought a sleeping bag. It s one of the
City God Temple ...............................................................2 B3
Confucius Temple .................................................................3 C4
cheapest hotels in town, and bars, restaurants
Municipal Glass Museum ..........................4 C3
4
and caf�s abound nearby.
Municipal Image Museum ..................................5 B3
HH HHH Sol Downtown Hotel (Y�ngx Dąfąndiąn; %533
H HH
5276; fax [phone]; 10 Wenhua St; 10 ; d/tw
SLEEPING
Dong Cheng Hotel .................................................6 B3
incl breakfast NT3800/4700; i) This is a solid mid-
To Guqifeng (3km);
Sol Downtown Hotel , ............................7 B3
Science Park (4km)
range business hotel, also suitable for visitors
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
NORTHERN TAIWAN
Dongda Rd
Nanya St
Guanghua St
Shuitian St
Jinguo Rd
Minquan Rd
Ziyou Rd
Beida Rd
Minsheng Rd
Minzhu Rd
Zhongzheng Rd
Jinguo Rd
Dongda Rd
Fuhou St
Wenhua St
Zhongyang Rd
Minfu St
inzu Rd
M
Beimen St
Changan Rd
Beida Rd
Shaonian St
Pateh Rd
Shijie St
Xida Rd
Dadong Rd
Dongmen St
Fuxing Rd
Dongmen St
Zhongzheng Rd
Zhongxiao Rd
Wuchang St
Dongda Rd
Guangfu Rd
Mintsu Rd
Rd
ang
Zhongshan Rd
Wenhua Rd
ench
W
Gongyuan Rd
Szuwei Rd
Dongshan Rd
Linsen Rd
Boai Rd
Zhonghua Rd
Xuefu Rd
Nanda Rd
Shipin Rd
174 HSINCHU TO SANYI " " Bei pu l onel ypl anet. com l onel ypl anet. com HSINCHU TO SANYI " " Shi toushan 175
looking for softer beds, better bathrooms and a heritage. Lest our little jingle makes it sound As you exit the temple the street directly Getting There & Away
higher thread count in their sheets. Discounts like Beipu has not been successful, we have in front of you is Beipu Street ( ). There To get to Beipu from Hsinchu, take a Hsinchu
of 30% to 40% are available every day. to note that it makes for an excellent day trip. are a number of old buildings along the first Bus Company (%03-596 2018) bus, which you ll
There s a nice authentic feel to the place, and few blocks and many pleasant snack shops, find just to the left of the train station, heading
Eating & Drinking while it could be a little cleaner, the quality of teahouses and caf�s. to Xia Gong Guan (NT44, every 20 minutes).
The train station area is chock-a-block full of its attractions (temples, teahouses, old houses One block up, at the intersection with Forty minutes later get off at Jhudong ( )
places to eat, both on the streets and in the and some speciality foods) is quite good. It s Nansing Rd ( ), look right for an OK and then transfer to a bus to Beipu (NT23,
shopping malls. The area around the City God certainly one of the best places to try Hakka convenience store sign. This is where you got 20 minutes, every 30 minutes). At the time
Temple holds a lively, though orderly market, pounded tea. off the bus, and where you can catch it again of writing the first bus left Jhudong at 7am,
where visitors can sample any number of local back to Jhudong. Note that you catch the bus and the first bus from Hsinchu to Xia Gong
dishes. For information about some of these, Orientation back on the opposite side of the road. Guan left at 6.10am.
from duck noodles to  black cat steamed buns , There are almost no signs in English around
check out the Cultural Bureau s website. Al- town, but it s very small and most of what you ll Eating & Drinking SHITOUSHAN
most 50 restaurants and stalls are listed (in- want to see is close together. The bus drops you Like Meinong in the south, Beipu (which
%03 / elevation 492m
cluding hours and addresses), with pictures, off in the heart of things. Some teahouses have means northern wild area) is over 90% Hakka. Shitoushan (Sh tóush n) is a foothill on the
useful descriptions in English of the dishes and a Chinese map. The town s website is also in In almost every restaurant you ll find Hakka border of Miaoli and Hsinchu Counties. Beau-
touching stories of the trials and triumphs of Chinese only (www.peipu.com.tw). staples such as b nti�o ( ; flat rice noo- tiful dense forests and rugged rock faces de-
the owners of various establishments. dles) and l i ch� (see the boxed text, below). fine the topography, but if you ask anyone it is
Hsinchu has scores of caf�s and pubs, Sights The Well ( ; Shu j ng; %580 5122; set meals the temples tucked into caves and hugging the
though not all of the latter are welcoming to The following is written as a short tour from NT250, lei cha for 3 NT300; h10am-6pm) One of the slopes that have given the place its fame. Shi-
strangers. One good area to try is Wenhua the bus stop on Jhong Jheng Rd ( ), best places to try lei cha, The Well is a rustic toushan is sacred ground for the island s Bud-
St alongside the canal. across from an OK convenience store. Hakka-style house that has just the perfect dhists and draws big weekend crowds, with
From the bus stop head back towards the heritage character. It hasn t been gussied up people coming to worship or simply enjoy
Shopping hill. In a minute or so you will see old build- for modern times, nor is it old and dirty. You the beauty and tranquillity of the mountain.
For high-quality glass products ask at the ings on either side of the road. On the right can sit inside at tables, or on wooden floors, Over the years, Shitoushan has been consist-
Glass Museum for the numbers and ad- is Tian Shui Hall ( ; Ti n Shu T�ng), the or even outside on a wooden deck under the ently described by Lonely Planet travellers as
dresses of Hsinchu artisans. largest private traditional three-sided com- plum trees. The food here is not bad, but a highlight of their trip to Taiwan.
pound in Beipu. You can look in over the most people come for the atmosphere and the Yuanguang Temple ( ; Yu�ngu ng S�)
Getting There & Around walls, but you can t go in. chance to grind and make their own lei cha. was the first temple to be constructed in the
Trains leave from Taipei (fast/slow train To the left is Jinguangfu ( ; People don t linger in Beipu so expect most area (in 1894). Many more buildings were
NT180/116, 60/90 minutes) and Taichung J ngu ngfś G nggu n), a heritage house from shops to close by early evening. added over the years, including Chuanhua Tang
(fast/slow train NT198/128, 60/90 minutes) 1835 that unfortunately you also can t enter. If
from 5am to 11pm. you continue up the narrow alley between the
LEI CHA
The high-speed rail doesn t go directly to buildings you ll reach the very quaint teahouse
Hsinchu downtown from Taipei (NT290, 40 The Well (see opposite). If you pronounce it incorrectly, lei cha (l i ch�) sounds like  tired tea , but this hearty brew was
minutes), so you still need to catch a bus to Facing Tian Shui Hall, go right. Shortly designed to do anything but make you sleepy. It was a farmer s drink, rich and thick and full of
complete your journey (NT31, 30 minutes, you will pass Jian Asin Mansion (A-Hsin Jiang nutrients and calories. In the old days, Hakka farmers would drink it both during and after work
every 30 to 40 minutes). A taxi will cost about Residence; ; Ji ng x n Gł J ) in the tobacco fields in order to fortify their bodies.
NT300 to the Hsinchu train station. on the left. This two-storey Western-styled Or so the story goes.
At the time of writing there were high- house was built by a rich tea merchant who, Very likely, lei cha is a modern invention (like the Scottish tartan), or at best a family drink
speed rail trains about every hour, though this not surprisingly, had a lot of Western clients. that has been cleverly promoted as an authentic part of Taiwan s Hakka heritage. In any case, it s
will certainly increase as time goes on. Entry is by prior reservation only. everywhere now, and authentic or not, it s definitely part of the Taiwan experience.
Roaming taxis are not that numerous in From the mansion it s just a hop to our Lei cha means pounded tea, and that s exactly what you must do before you can drink it. If
Hsinchu. Get your hotel to call before you favourite site in Beipu, the Zhitian (Citian) Temple you go to an authen& well, if you go to a shop that does it right, you will be given a wooden
head out or keep the number of the driver ( ; C�ti n G ng). You can enter this pestle and a large porcelain bowl with a small amount of green tea leaves, sesame seeds, nuts
once you ve found one. building and should to see the very beautiful and grains in the bottom.
pillars and the high relief on the walls. Then comes the  pound part of  pounded tea . Using the pestle, grind the ingredients in the
BEIPU To the left of the temple (as you face it) bowl. Yes, we know we said this is pounded tea, but then your host also said this is an ancient
is a small passageway; walk to its curvy end. recipe. So grind, atomise, pestle (it s a verb, too), pulverise and mix the ingredients to a fine mush.
%03 / pop 10,400
 I m a little bit Lukang, I m a little bit Notice a few loose stones? That s not an ac- Your host will then add hot water and dole out the  tea in cups. At this moment, or perhaps
Meinong, too. cident. In the wilder days of Taiwan s history earlier, you will be given a small bowl of puffed rice. Add the rice to the drink and consume
With all due respect to Donnie and Marie, the narrow passageways into Beipu were lined before the kernels get soggy.
that s Beipu (B ip ), a small Hsinchu County with the occasional loose stone so that intrud- If this sounds like your cuppa (and really, it is delicious), head to any teahouse in Beipu,
town that in recent years has, like the others, ers (who of course wouldn t know this) could Meinong or Sanyi.
tried to pull in visitors with its Hakka cultural be heard approaching.
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
NORTHERN TAIWAN
176 HSINCHU TO SANYI " " Around Shi toushan l onel ypl anet. com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com HSINCHU TO SANYI " " Tai an Hot Spri ngs 177
( ; Quąnhuą T�ng), which today also spring resorts outside the Taipei area. East River try Rd 62. It doesn t have any information on NT3000; h6.30am-10pm) Tenglong has a good, cen-
serves as a guesthouse, and the main gate, Spa Garden ( ; D ngji ng W nqu�n; %03-825 Taian, however. tral location, near food stalls, restaurants and
built in 1940 by the Japanese to celebrate the 285; www.eastriver.com.tw, Chinese only; public baths unlim- hiking trails. The campground is nothing spe-
2600th anniversary of their royal court (that s ited time adult/child NT350/150; h9am-10pm) is nestled Dangers & Annoyances cial and you probably wouldn t want to go on
one ancient royal line!). There are 11 tem- in the bend of a fast flowing river in an area Taian suffers frequent landslides, which can a sunny weekend due to the noise and crowds.
ples, five on the front side of the mountain, with no other development. The design makes wash out roads and change the course and The cabins are pretty good value (weekday
six on the back, as well as numerous smaller use of traditional red bricks and lots of wood. look of riverbeds. Avoid the area after heavy discount 25%) if you want a little more privacy.
shrines, arches and pagodas. Shitoushan is a It looks traditional, but there s no denying it s rains or earthquakes. The public pools here cost NT200.
veritable temple wonderland and a great hit for urbanites who want their version of rural Sunrise Hot Spring Hotel (%941 988; d/tw
with photographers, nature lovers and temple Taiwan, ie folksy but clean and comfortable. Sights & Activities NT5500/7000, 20% weekday discount) Rooms here are
aficionados. Give yourself at least three hours If you are staying at Shitoushan you can get HIKING stylish, but some are holding up better than
to explore the area or an overnight stay for a taxi to the hot springs for about NT200. If There are a number of trails marked on our others; make sure you check before paying.
the full effect. you have your own car, make sure you explore map, but you should always check with locals
On the other side of the mountain, con- the rural roads around the hot springs. The about the conditions before heading out. This Eating
nected by a walking trail, is the Lion s Head area is called Nanzhuang ( ) and it s full of is a rough area. Try to finish higher trails Food is fresh and local, and we ve never had a
Mountain Visitor Centre (%580 9296; h9am-5pm). little surprises. before mid-afternoon, as fog can obscure the bad meal in many visits. There are numerous
The centre is a pleasant place to grab a meal views and make it easy to get lost. small restaurants and shops along the main
or a map, should you wish to explore beyond TAIAN HOT SPRINGS road, and a collection of small food stalls (dishes
Shitoushan itself. HOT SPRINGS NT100) open for lunch and dinner beside the
%037
Visitors (including non-Buddhists) are There are hot springs all over Taiwan, and Taian s springs produce alkaloid carbonic suspension bridge into Tenglong. There s a
allowed to stay overnight at Chuanhua Tang beautiful mountains for hiking, too, but we water at a temperature of about 47�C. The convenience store in the village that also has
(Chuanhua Hall; %822 020, 823 859; d/tw NT800/1100). still think Taian (Tąi n W nqu�n) is special. water is clear, tasteless and almost odourless good lunch boxes.
Excellent vegetarian meals are NT60 each, For one thing, it has hot spring water so good and said to be good for treating skin prob- Mountain Legend Caf� (Sh nzh ng Chu�nq�; %941
but if that doesn t appeal to you there are the Japanese built an officers club here to take lems and nervousness. The Sunrise Hot Spring 380; 16 Qingan Village; dishes NT150; h10am-10pm)
stalls and shops lining the back parking lot advantage of it 90 years ago. Hotel (R�ch W nqu�n Dłjią Fąndiąn; %941 988; public
and even a caf� on the way up the stairs to More recently, Taian has gone from largely pool unlimited time adult/child NT350/150; h8am-11pm)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
the hall. The old rules forbidding talk dur- unknown to the hot new hot-spring place (we has excellent modern facilities to enjoy the
Sunrise Hot Spring Hotel ...................(see 1)
ing meals or couples sleeping together are never doubted it for a second, though now waters. Both public outdoor pools and private
SLEEPING
no longer enforced, but do be on your best that it s happened, we aren t all that happy tubs in rooms are designed to let you take in
Sunrise Hot Spring Hotel ......................1 C1
behaviour. sharing). Weekdays are best if you want to the mountain views as you bathe.
Tenglong Hot Spring Resort ...................................2 C2
From the car park it s a short walk up the avoid the crowds, but note that if you are
EATING
stairs to Chuanhua Tang. The check-in coun- going hiking, a warm weekend is not going Sleeping
Convenience Store ......................................................3 B2
ter is to the left, just before the temple. There s to attract the hot springers. Whatever you do, Tenglong Hot Spring Resort (T�nglóng Sh nzhu ng;
Food Stalls ............................................................................4 C2
a large map (with some labels in English on avoid the hugely popular strawberry season in
%941 002; www.tenglong.com.tw/; camp sites NT300, with Mountain Legend Caf� ..............................................5 A2
it) on the right side of the car park to show autumn. And avoid the strawberries: they are tent & sleeping bags for up to 8 people NT1000, 2-person cabins
you the way. loaded with pesticides.
0 4 km
TAIAN HOT SPRINGS
0 2 miles
Getting There & Away Orientation & Information
Henglong
Historical Trail
A BCD
It s not easy to get to Shitoushan. The best way Taian is in a remote corner of southeastern
at present is to take a bus from the Hsinchu Bus Miaoli County, near Sheipa National Park
Hushan
Henglong
(1492m)
Shan
Company (%03-596 2018), just to the left of the (see p178). The area is not precisely defined
(1318m)
Hsinchu train station, heading to Xia Gong on any map, but is more or less the region 1
Guan (NT44, every 20 minutes). Forty minutes that County Rd 62 runs through. Beginning
Church
later get off at Jhudong ( ) and transfer to just outside the town of Wenshui, Country
1
Kings Resort
a bus heading to Shitoushan (NT50). Ask the Rd 62 runs for 16km alongside the Wenshui
Bridge of
& Spa
Love Suspension Bridge
driver to let you off at Shitoushan Old Hiking River before ending in a car park just below
Japanese Police
3 Jinshui
4
Officers' Hot
62
Village
Trail Arch ( ). From here the Japanese Police Officers Club. 2
Spring Club
Riverside
Restaurants
it s a 30-minute uphill walk through a dream- Most visitors stay within the last 3km
like forest landscape to the parking lot. Note stretch of Country Rd 62, in an area of Taian
that there are few buses a day to Shitoushan, known as Jinshui Village (J nsh i C n; popu-
2
so call to check the schedule. lation 200). A tourist map, in Chinese, is avail-
able at the Tenglong Hot Spring Resort.
Qingan Village
Niao Zui Shan
5
(Bird Beak
AROUND SHITOUSHAN Sheipa National Park Wenshui Visitor Centre
Mountain; 1437m)
To Sheipa National Park
Not far from Shitoushan, down County Rd (%996 100; www.spnp.gov.tw; 100 Shuiweiping, Dahu;
Wenshui Visitor Centre
(2km); Wenshui (3km)
124 ( ), is one of the most pleasant hot- h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) sits at the start of Coun-
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
NORTHERN TAIWAN
Wenshui River
Trail
Tree
Old
� Lonely Planet Publications
178 HSINCHU TO SANYI " " Shei pa Nati onal Park l onel ypl anet. com l onel ypl anet. com HSINCHU TO SANYI " " Shei pa Nati onal Park 179
Worth a special mention, this rustic Qingan lent wood products (it s aromatic, extremely MIAOLI WOOD SCULPTURE MUSEUM earthquake in 1930. The remains are fairly
Village establishment has been in the Peng heavy and can resist termites), the officer dramatic and rather interesting in that the
family for three generations now, and while wisely established a wood business. Over This museum (Mi�ol� Młdi o Bówłgu n; %037-876 009; terracotta brick arches are held together with
grandma is no longer cooking (a great shame), time, Sanyi became the woodcarving region adult/child NT60/50; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun, closed holidays) mortar made of sticky rice and clam shell.
we can t really complain about the fare her in Taiwan. Today, nearly half the population opened in 1995 with the goal of promoting
daughter-in-law whips up. The menu features is engaged in the business in one way or an- Taiwan s wood culture. Exhibits include in- HIKING
great fried tofu and Hakka-style food such as other, with the other half probably wishing formative displays on the origins of wood- In addition to the abandoned rail tracks,
salty eggs, bitter melon and excellent moun- they were. carving in Sanyi, a knockout collection of you can walk the April Snow Trail (
tain chicken. The caf� sits atop the Turtle In addition to the wood products, Sanyi is Buddhas and Bodhisattvas, some gorgeous ; S�yuŁ Xu Błdąo). This begins just to the
Nest (G i XuŁ), a large rock standing in the worth visiting for its excellent museum, old traditional household furniture and architec- right of the museum and takes you through a
exact location where the three Miaoli County train station village and You Tong trees. The tural features, and even a few pieces by Juming beautiful forest of You Tong trees whose white
townships intersect. The most powerful feng You Tong (Aleurites fordii) is a hardwood (see the boxed text, p53). blossoms in April and early May give the trail
shui in all of Taian is right here. whose oil was once used to waterproof wood Other than the titles to these displays, there its name. The trail leads, in about 30 minutes,
products. It covers the mountainsides around is no information in English at all, which is a to a beautiful open tea field.
Getting There & Around Sanyi, and during the spring months its blos- shame. Some of the history of Sanyi is quite
The one bus route that used to get you close soming white flowers give the landscape the quirky, such as how the town became popular Tours
to Taian is no longer running, so you will need appearance of being dusted with snow. in the  50s with American Catholics who came Taiwan Tour Bus (%0800-011 765; tours NT1500) runs
your own transportation. to custom order hand-carved statues of the tours to Sanyi, which include a hot-springs
Orientation Virgin Mary. stopover in nearby Taian.
SHEIPA NATIONAL PARK The sights in Sanyi are spread out and, now The museum is just at the end of Guang-
that the public shuttle bus service has been sheng Village. You can t miss it for the two Festivals & Events
Many rivers and one mountain range run cancelled, it is not that easy to see everything carved mastodons outside. Every May artists from around Taiwan are
through this 76,000-hectare national park in a day without your own transportation. invited to display their best work and to create
(Xu bą Guóji G ngyu�n). Sheipa National If you re on foot, and starting at the Sanyi SHENG SHING TRAIN STATION new works, in wood and ice, right on the street
Park is home to 51 mountain peaks over train station, walk out and up to Jungjeng Built during the Japanese era and without during the Sanyi Woodcarving Festival (
3000m and is the primary source of drinking Rd, the main thoroughfare in town, and turn the use of nails, the charming Sheng Shing ; S ny� Młdi o Ji�). For visitors there are
water for northern and central Taiwan. left (everything you want to see is left). The Train Station (ShŁngx ng Hu ch zhąn) is also opportunities to try your hand at wood-
The park was established in 1992 and much turnoff for the old train station and village is now a little too popular on the weekends carving and to sample Hakka food.
of it remains inaccessible, in fact prohibited. about 1km down the road, though the sta- with day trippers coming to explore the old The Miaoli Mask Festival (
The three sections you are permitted to enter tion itself is another 5km away. The main grounds, walk through a 1km-long tunnel ; Mi�ol� Guój� Ji Miąn Y�shł Ji�) has been
are the forest recreation areas of Wuling (see commercial carving street and the wood (bring a torch) or stroll along the abandoned getting rave reviews since the first one was
p169), Guanwu and Syuejian. Guanwu ( museum are about 2km away, making them railway tracks. held in 1999. Now held yearly in the Shangri-La
; Gu nwł S nl�n YóulŁ Q ) easy to walk to. There are signs in English At 480m, the station used to be the highest Paradise Theme Park ( ; Xi ngg�l l
was closed at the time of writing, while Sy- about town. stop along the whole Western Trunk Line. LŁyu�n; %561 369), the event draws bigger and
uejian ( Xu jiąn S nl�n When it was closed in 1997, walkers soon bigger crowds each year. In 2005, Central
YóulŁ Q ) was just about to open after a Sights & Activities discovered that the 12km of abandoned track and South American masks and cultures
three-year delay. WOODCARVING made for a fine stroll through the country- were highlighted, though local mask makers,
The park s headquarters (%037-996 100; www Woodcarving is the lifeblood of the town, side. A small tourist village soon popped up opera troupes and folk dance troupes were
.spnp.gov.tw; Dahu; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) are on and on Jungjeng Rd alone there are over 200 around the station, and, when not overrun also showcased. The festival usually runs from
the road to Taian Hot Springs. Here you can shops selling an array of carved items. We re with tourists, it is very pleasant here. The late March through to the end of May.
pick up a number of brochures and check out not talking dull signposts here, but 3m cypress street is cobbled and lined with all manner
some interesting ecological displays. English- statues of savage-faced folk gods, delicate win- of old-style teahouses, caf�s and restaurants, Eating
speaking staff are usually on hand. dow reliefs and beautiful traditional furni- many in charming old brick buildings with There is no end of places to eat and drink
The best months for hiking in the park are ture. You can come here with the intention rustic decks made out of old railway ties. traditional Hakka fare near Sheng Shing sta-
October to December and March to April. In of buying, but if you just like to browse and Evening time really brings out the charm of tion and Shueimei St.
winter, high-altitude trails are often snowed enjoy the work of skilled artisans you won t the place.
in; after April, seasonal heavy rains, including be disappointed. Four kilometres past the station stand the Getting There & Away
monsoons, are common. Most stores are clustered in two areas: picturesque ruins of the Long Deng Viaduct There s only one train in the morning from
Shueimei St (Sh im i Ji ), which is actually (Lóngt�ng Duąn Qi�o). The viaduct was built Taipei (NT193, 2� hours, 8.53am), but many
SANYI just a few blocks of Jungjeng Rd; and Guang- in 1905 and destroyed in a 7.3 magnitude more from Taichung.
sheng Village (Gu ngsh ng X nch�ng),
%037 / pop 5000 � Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
Over 100 years ago, a Japanese officer dis- which you pass through on the way to the
restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
covered that camphor grew in abundance in museum. Stores in both areas close around
only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
the hills around Sanyi (S ny�), a small Miaoli 6pm, though a few stay open till 10pm or
County town. Since camphor makes for excel- later on weekends.
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above -  Do the right thing with our content.
N O R T H E R N T A I W A N
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