© Lonely Planet Publications
90 www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com BANJUL " " History 91
90 BANJUL " " RunningSubhead
HISTORY July 22 Dr runs northwest from July 22
Founded in 1816 by Captain Alexander Sq, becoming the main road out of Banjul.
Grant, Banjul was initially named Bathurst, On the edge of the city it goes under the
Banjul after Henry Bathurst, the secretary of the vast structure of Arch 22 and turns into a
British Colonial Office. Like many other dual carriageway that after about 3km west
colonial settlements, including Saint-Louis crosses Oyster Creek on Denton Bridge
in Senegal, the town was strategically placed to reach the mainland proper. Remember:
on an island (Banjul Island). However, while only the president is allowed to drive
It's hard to imagine a more unlikely, more consistently ignored capital city than the sleepy
most of these seaports were built to facilitate under Arch 22  everyone else must go
seaport of Banjul. People aren't flocking here, no new buildings are rising to the skies and the slave trade, Banjul was founded as an around it.
operational base from which to prevent the Another 2km further west, the road
the old ones are gradually crumbling to dust.
traffic of humans, after the British Abolition splits: the right fork goes to Bakau, Fajara
Act of 1807 prohibited the trading of slaves and the other Atlantic coast resorts; straight
Just 30 minutes from the thriving tourist zones of the Atlantic coast, Banjul sits on its
(at least on paper). on it leads to Serekunda, the airport, and
island like a sulking little sister who's stopped vying for attention. But despite the shadow of
The town s regular street pattern was also everywhere else along the southern bank of
abandon that haunts its sand-blown streets, Banjul is truly worth a visit. Lively Albert Market,
laid down during this time and grew over the the Gambia River.
at the heart of the city, is one of Gambia's best places to snare a souvenir bargain and soak
years from the area of today s State House
up the atmosphere of eager buying, selling and bartering that makes the narrow alleyways and the old town, to the area it covers today. Maps
This is where you can still find examples We didn't come across any maps whatsover
and ramshackle stalls hum with excitement. Down the road from the market, Banjul's hectic
of 19th-century architecture, the so-called while there, and no-one seemed to know of
harbour is another vibrant slice of inner-city Africa. This is where Gambia's main ferry 
Krio- or Aku-style houses, reminiscent of the any that were available.
a rusty old metal tub  chugs back and forth between the north and south banks of the
adaptations of early Victorian architecture
river, heaving huge trucks, traders bearing wares, hustlers and travellers across the mouth
found in Freetown, Sierra Leone.
STREET NAME CHANGES
When Gambia achieved independence
of the Gambia River. The constant comings and goings and the bustle that accompanies the
The town s streets, first named after the
in 1965, Bathurst was granted city status,
urban ritual are worth taking in, especially from one of the makeshift roadside cafés.
English heroes of the Battle of Waterloo,
and became the capital of the young nation.
were given new designations in the late
It wasn t renamed Banjul (the Mandinka
Banjul s  old town , a mile of fading colonial structures, is imbued with a sense of history that
1990s. They now carry the names of
word for  bamboo and the island s original
the plush seaside resorts are lacking, and the National Museum, a charming institution with
Gambia s heroes of independence. How-
name) until 1973.
dusty exhibits, reinforces this atmosphere of a precious, though slightly neglected, past.
ever, most people (including taxi drivers)
With the growth of Gambia's coastal
are still more familiar with the old names,
towns into major tourist areas, Banjul
so you ll usually get a more reliable answer
experienced a strong decline, reflected in
if you ask for directions using the old street
a shrinking population and the move of
HIGHLIGHTS
names. We ve included a list of some of the
major businesses towards the coast. Today
streets and their old names, but if you re still
it s mainly an administrative centre, while
Soak up history and gritty reality
Arch 22
stuck, look for the addresses painted on the
a capital-worthy lifestyle is found in the
wandering through the backstreets of
front of shops and businesses.
resort zones.
Banjul s old town (p94)
Find everything from spices to souvenirs
ORIENTATION Old name New name
National Museum
in the colourful, chaotic Albert Market
Located on an island, Banjul is one of
(p96) Albert Market
those cities that doesn t really have space Bund Rd Kankujeri Rd
Check out what s changed in the city
to expand. Not that the town is attempting Clarkson St Rene Blain St
with a look at the dusty photos in the
to grow  in fact, the capital continues to Cotton St Cherno Adamah Bah St
National Museum (p94)
lose many of its offices, restaurants and Dobson St Ma Cumba Jallow St
shops to the flourishing coastal area. And Grant St Rev William Cole St
Enjoy the views across the capital, the
so the city remains small enough to walk Hagan St Daniel Goddard St
ocean and the Gambia River from the
Old Town
around without too much trouble. The Hill St Imam Lamin Bah St
massive construction that is Arch 22
centre is July 22 Sq, an unkempt public Hope St Jallow Jallow St
(p94)
park from which several main streets run Independence Dr July 22 Dr
south, including Russell St, which leads past MacCarthy Sq July 22 Sq
the bustling Albert Market into Liberation Marina Pde Muammar al Gadhafi Ave
St. West of the October 17 Roundabout is Orange St Tafsir Ebou Samba St
the old part of Banjul  a maze of narrow Picton St Davidson Carrol St
streets and ramshackle houses rarely visited Wellington St Liberation St
POPULATION: 50,000
by tourists.
B A N J U L
BANJUL
92 BANJUL www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com BANJUL " " Information 93
0 1 km
INFORMATION
BANJUL
0 0.5 miles
SUSPICIOUS SOCIETY
Internet Access
AC D
B
Gamtel Internet Café (July 22 Dr; per hr D30; h8am- Be aware that just because you're excited
14
about being in Gambia, the authorities
midnight)
20
To Denton Bridge (3km); Palm
A T L A N T I C Quantumnet (Nelson Mandela St; per hr D30; h9am- may not be. Our experience was that there
Grove Hotel (3km); Bacchius Beach
Bar (3km); Bakau (7km);
O C E A N
was a climate of distrust in the country 
1 10pm)
Serekunda (15km); Banjul
International Airport (30km)
26
perhaps linked to the imminent electoral
3
21
campaign, or perhaps a more permanent
Medical Services
feature of Gambian society. Bear the power
Banjul Pharmacy (%4227470; h9am-8.30pm)
11
of the state in mind: too many questions,
Across the road from the hospital.
This Area
Strictly
in particular about politically sensitive
Royal Victoria Teaching Hospital (%4228223;
Out of Bounds
topics, may arouse suspicion, and obviously
July 22 Dr) Though renovated in 1993, its quality still lags
State
House
using maps may not only alert tricksters
behind that of the private establishment on the Atlantic
1
16
Main Entrance
to your ignorance about the place, but
to Albert Market coast, which is better for treating minor illnesses and
34
2
present an excuse to a government official
injuries and doing malaria tests (see p99). The RVTH has
29
28
to hassle you with the powerful backing of
15 an Accidents & Emergencies (A&E) department.
July 22
Square
18 30
the state.
7
Money
35
Freedom
Banks in Banjul city are open from 8am
Lane
H
25
4 to 1.30pm Monday to Thursday, and from maze of open sewers that crisscross the
10
8am to 11am Friday. These banks change streets.
travellers cheques and have ATMs that Don t enter the area behind the State
9
32
October 17
23
24
accept Visa cards: House (marked  Strictly Out of Bounds on
Roundabout
27
3 13
IBC Bank (%4428145; Liberation St) the map), or you risk difficulties with the
31
5
Standard Chartered Bank (%4222081; Ecowas Ave) military and police.
2
EEEEEEE
This researcher was asked to leave town by
Post secret-service agents, who didn t like the sight
EEEEEEE 17
Main post office (Russell St; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat) of a map-wielding, question-asking visitor. If
OLD
12
TOWN Near Albert Market. You can buy postcards, paper or you experience similar hassles from the top,
Tanbi Wetland
EEEEEEE
6
Complex
envelopes from the hawkers outside. remain calm and polite, without giving in to
any dubious requests too readily.
EEE
EEEEEEE
Telephone
4
Gamtel Office (Russell St; h8am-11.30pm) Next door SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
EEE
EEEEEEE
22
to the post office. Banjul feels more like a very large village
EEEEEEE than a national capital, and this sleepy
19 To Barra
Travel Agencies atmosphere has a quaint kind of charm. If
33
EEEEEEE
Most of the main travel agencies have you ve come to The Gambia to experience
8
decamped to Fajara, Kotu or Kololi (see Africa, rather than a slice of Europe laid
H
INFORMATION
p102 ). Among the remaining ones, these down on a tropical beach, you might enjoy
Banjul Pharmacy.................................1 C2
Banjul Travel Agency..........................2 D3 seem to be the most efficient: a day here more than at the nearby Atlantic
Gamtel Internet Café.......................... B1
3
Banjul Travel Agency (%4228813; [e-mail]; coast resorts. The city s attraction lies not in
Gamtel Office..................................(see 7)
5
Guinea Consulate...............................4 C3
Ecowas Ave) grand sights but in intimate details  best
IBC Bank............................................5 D3
Olympic Travel (%4223370; Nelson Mandela St) taken in on a casual stroll around town.
Immigration Office.............................6 C4
Main Post Office................................7 D2
Mali Embassy.....................................8 C5
H
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Ferry Terminal
Olympic Travel...................................9 C3
Quantumnet....................................10 D3 SLEEPING
Violent crime is rare in Banjul, but there The terminal for the ferry to Barra, with its
Royal Victoria Teaching Hospital.......11 C1 Apollo Hotel....................................19 C4
are plenty of pickpockets. Their favourite endless queues of lorries, the industrious
Sierra Leone High Commission.........12 C4 Atlantic Hotel.................................... B1 SHOPPING
20
Standard Chartered Bank.................13 D3 Carlton Hotel.................................... B1 Albert Market..................................28 D2
21
hunting ground is the Barra ferry, but you hum of cargo being loaded and discharged,
Ferry Guesthouse.............................22 D4 Craft Market....................................29 D2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Kerewan Sound................................30 D2 should also be vigilant around the ferry passengers boarding and disembarking and
Albert Market................................(see 28) EATING
terminal and Albert Market. the continuous chatter of patiently waiting
Arch 22............................................14 A1 Ali Baba Snack Bar...........................23 D3 TRANSPORT
6
Fountain..........................................15 D2 King of Shawarma Café ..................24 D3 Air Guinée........................................31 C3 Banjul turns its lights off after 8pm, customers, is worth experiencing. Directly
National Museum.............................16 C2 Mandela Alles Klar Fast Food...........25 D3 Air Sénégal International..................32 D3
and most streets in the centre drown opposite, the warehouses, clothes stalls and
Royal Victoria Teaching Hospital....(see 11) Michel's............................................26 A1 Ferry Terminal..................................33 D4
St Joseph's Adult Education & Minibuses to Bakau..........................34 C2 in darkness, making the place feel quite grocery wholesalers that line Liberation
Skills Centre.................................17 D3 DRINKING Minibuses to Serekunda & Brikama..35 C2
unsafe. However, it s not armed bandits St resound with animated bartering that
War Memorial.................................18 D2 Queen's Nightclub...........................27 C3 West Coast Airways.........................(see 9)
that represent nocturnal danger, but the mingles with the clamour.
Banjul
B A N J U L
BANJUL
Muammar al Gadhafi Ave
July 22 Dr
Tafsir Demba Ndow St
Ousman Jeng St
Antouman Faal St
Samba Njammeh Nyang St
Daw
ur Gaye St
Tafsir Wally Joof St
Ousman Njie Keen St
Wallace Cole Rd
Mosque Rd
Amie Sarr St
Jack Chow St
Russell St
Pierre Njie Tce
Jallow Jallow St
Jeremiah Allen St
Sagarr Jobe St
J R Forster St
Alhassan Ndure St
Rebecca Savage St
Master Fowlis St
Nelson Mandela St
Mam Mberry Njie St
Rev William Cole St
Alpha Tapsiru St
Hannah Forster St
Rene Blain St
Abdou Wally Mbye St
Davidson Carrol St
Serign Sillah St
Marma Bah St
Liberation St
Imam Lamin Bah St
OAU Blvd
Ma Cumba Jallow St
Ecowas Ave
Daniel Goddard St
Tafsir Ebou Samba St
Tafsir Balla
Joof St
Kankujeri Rd
Cherno Adama Bah St
Brown St
94 BANJUL " " Sights & Activities www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com BANJUL " " Sleeping 95
eateries) in the market to pacify shopped- ex cellent explanations of the hospital s on the Gambian bird-watching map, due
BANJUL IN ONE DAY
out bellies. Albert Market is never a calm international teaching programmes and to its accessibility and the large number of
Thanks to Banjul s manageable size, you can spot, but if you want to avoid the keenest research projects into malaria and hepatitis, birds that can be observed here.
take in the town s sights in a relaxed one- hours, come early in the morning or late in and a worthwhile, though painful, insight
day visit. the afternoon. into the dire situation medical services face SLEEPING
Get your energy levels up with a freshly in The Gambia. Not many tourists stay in Banjul city,
pressed fruit juice at the King of Shawarma July 22 Square preferring instead the beach and comforts
Café (p96), then head south for a visit to the A recently greened colonial creation, July St Joseph s Adult Education & Skills of the Atlantic coast. However, if you want
inspirational, peaceful St Joseph s Adult 22 Square (MacCarthy Sq) was once the Centre a more African environment you re more
Education & Skills Centre (opposite). site of cricket matches but is now mainly Tucked away in an ancient Portuguese likely to find it here. None of the budget
Change tempo by diving into the feverish used for governmental pomp and public building, St Joseph s Adult Education & Skills options take credit cards.
bustle of Albert Market (below), then stroll celebrations. Look out for the War Memorial Centre (%4228836; [e-mail]; Ecowas Ave;
past July 22 Square (p93), taking in the War and the (now dried-up) fountain  erected by
h9am-2pm Mon-Thu, to noon Fri) has provided Budget & Midrange
Memorial and fountain. Walk along July public subscription to commemorate the training to disadvantaged women for the Ferry Guesthouse (Ami s Guesthouse; %4222028;
22 Dr and put in a stop at the National coronation of King George VI of Britain last 20 years. Visitors can take a free tour 28 Liberation St; s/d/tr D350/500/610; a) Above a
Museum (right) to enjoy the curious in 1937. of sewing, crafts and tie-dye classes, and busy shop and up some gloomy stairs, this
collection of historical artefacts. purchase reasonably priced items such as guesthouse is surprisingly acceptable. It s
Participate in a tour of the Royal Victoria National Museum patchwork products, embroidered purses not glamorous, but it is your best budget
Teaching Hospital (right), then head to- The National Museum (July 22 Dr; admission D25; and cute children s clothes at the on-site bet, and the balcony is great for watching the
wards the gigantic Arch 22 (right) to take boutique. busy trading stalls and ferry terminal. Single-
h8am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 1pm Fri & Sat) has some
in the sight of the city from above. dog-eared and dated exhibits (including, room prices double if you want air-con.
Weave your way back through the rarely rather bizarrely, the dress worn by Miss Pirogue Trips Apollo Hotel (%4228184; Tafsir Ebou Samba St;
visited backstreets of Banjul s pleasant old Gambia in 1984) that are still worth a look. The quiet, mangrove-lined waterways of s/d with fan D450/550, with air-con D750/1000; a)
town (below), and finish your day with a Explanations are generally good, and there s Oyster Creek, the main waterway separating Room prices in this shoddy guesthouse
meal and a drink at Michel s (p96). a fascinating, if dusty, display of photos, Banjul Island from the mainland, and its have doubled while standards have slipped
maps and historical papers. minor tributaries are brilliant for bird- towards the grimy bottom end. You want
watching, sport fishing and wonderfully to pay a lot for very little? This is your
Old Town Arch 22 lazy afternoons relaxing in a pirogue to the place.
Head west from the ferry terminal, towards Designed by the Senegalese architect sound of the waves. Most hotels organise Carlton Hotel (%228670; fax [phone]; 25 July
the wide Ma Cumba Jallow St (Dobson St) Pierre Goudiaby, Arch 22 (July 22 Dr; admission pirogue trips, though you can also book 22 Dr; s/d D500/550, with air-con D800/850; a) This
and beyond, and explore the old town, a D35; h9am-11pm) is an enormous gateway your tour independently at the Sportsfishing is a little more upmarket than the basic
chaotic assembly of decrepit colonial build- built to celebrate the military coup of 22 Centre (p103) at Denton Bridge, which crosses guesthouse lot, with luxuries such as
ings and Krio-style clapboard houses  July 1994 (p33 ). At 35m high, it s by far Oyster Creek some 3km west from Banjul running water and indoor toilets. A good-
steep-roofed structures with wrought-iron the tallest building in The Gambia, and its city centre. value option.
balconies and corrugated roofs (see the publicly accessible balcony grants excellent To reach Denton Bridge by public trans-
boxed text, p44 ). It s no coincidence that views over the city and coast. There s also port, take any minibus running between Top End
they resemble the inner-city architecture of a cosy café, a souvenir shop and a small Banjul and Bakau or Serekunda and ask Atlantic Hotel (%4228601; www.corinthiahotels.com;
Freetown, Sierra Leone, as many of them still museum that enlightens visitors about the the driver to let you off at the bridge. The Muammar al Gadhafi Ave; s/d D3007/3937; pais)
belong to families who came to Banjul from coup d état. Sportsfishing Centre is well signposted. This vast, plush resort hotel has numerous
Freetown, some as early as the 1820s. It s best to phone first and explain which bars, restaurants and plenty of leisure
Royal Victoria Teaching Hospital activity you re interested in, though you can facilities, including a nightclub, massage
Albert Market Gambia s main health facility, the Royal probably also be put in touch with a pirogue centre and a garden created by ornithologist
Since its creation in the mid-19th century, Victoria Teaching Hospital (%4226152; www.rvth or boat owner on the spot. Clive Barlow to please the bird-watchers.
this market, an area of frenzied buying, .dosh.gm; July 22 Dr) not only offers emergency Rooms are bright and pleasant, with modern,
bartering and bargaining, has been Banjul s treatment, but also conducts tours of its Tanbi Wetland Complex unobtrusive décor and all the facilities you
hub of activity. From shimmering fabrics complex of late-19th-century and modern If you like bird-watching but don t fancy want to make you entirely comfortable,
and false plaits, fresh fruits and dried fish buildings. This might indicate how wholly travelling by pirogue, Kankujeri Rd might including minibar and satellite TV.
to tourist-tempting souvenirs at the Craft the country is devoted to and dependent be more your scene. Palm Grove Hotel (%4201620; www.gambia-palm
Market, you can find almost anything here upon the tourist dollar, or how ingenious The stretch of mangrove on either side of grovehotel.com; s/d with breakfast D1150/1840; as)
and then some. even the health sector has to be in order the road forms part of the Tanbi Wetland About 3km out of Banjul towards Serekunda,
Give yourself a good couple of hours to to maintain public services. A hospital Complex, a large wetland area that stretches this hotel is smaller, more personal and
wander around Albert Market; long enough visit might not sound like a seductive all the way to Oyster Creek and Lamin. The better value than the Atlantic. It has a decent
to take in the smells, sounds and sights, and holiday idea, but the daily two-hour tours Banjul part of this wetland is commonly swimming beach and all the usual activities
get your haggling skills up to scratch. There (free, though donations are welcome) known as  Bund Road , the former name of you d expect from a resort, including wind-
are several drinks stalls and chop shops (basic are surprisingly interesting. This offers Kankujeri Road. It s something of a classic surfing, canoeing and tennis.
B A N J U L
BANJUL
96 BANJUL " " Drinking & Entertainment www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com BANJUL " " Getting Around 97
EATING pretty sleazy at times, as seems to be the near the border (just after the junction where straight ahead out of the terminal. Beyond
The shift from Banjul to the coast has nature with these jackpot places. the northbank road to Farafenni turns off), the initial row of cars is a secondary car park
taken with it most of Banjul s decent eat- about 3km northeast from Barra. and you ll probably find a few yellow taxis
eries. Only a couple of the remaining SHOPPING There are open seating areas upstairs parked here. These drivers are not allowed
places could reasonably be described as In Banjul, the best place to go shopping is from which you get a good view over the into or even near the terminal, but they are
restaurants, most of the rest being fast-food Albert Market, which is also a sight in itself. river. Dolphins are occasionally spotted on allowed to take passengers if you seek them
joints. Around Albert Market and the north If you enter via the main entrance you ll pass the passage, so keep your camera handy (but out. With a bit of bargaining you should be
end of Liberation St are several cheap chop stalls stacked with shimmering fabrics, hair safe  this is a pickpocketing hot spot). able to hitch a ride for D150 to D200.
shops and streets stalls where plates of rice extensions, shoes, household and electrical If the wait for the ferry is too long, you Fares are the same whether you come
and sauce start at about D25. Breakfast at wares and just about everything else you could also jump onto one of the large from or head towards the airport.
the ferry terminal  skewered beef on fresh can imagine. Keep going and you ll reach pirogues that do the same journey (D50 for
bread rolls with sweet coffee  is highly the myriad colours and flavours of the fruit a seat on a public pirogue or around D600 if Minibus & Shared Taxi
recommended. and vegetable market. Beyond here is the you hire the whole boat). Be warned though: Minibuses run between Banjul, Serekunda
Ali Baba Snack Bar (%4224055; Nelson Mandela area usually called the Craft Market, with they can get dangerously overloaded. Fares and the other coastal towns, while shared
St; h9am-5pm) More than just a kebab shop, stalls selling tourist-tempting souvenirs rise sharply after dark (as does the risk) and taxis run between Serekunda, Fajara and
this place is an institution with a deserved (see p271 for information about the sorts negotiating passage at this time will be the Bakau. Both shared taxis and minibuses
reputation for the best shwarmas (sliced, of items you re likely to find here). acid test of your bargaining skills. serve the route between Serekunda, Kotu
grilled meat and salad in pita bread) and Near the main entrance, you ll also find and Kololi.
falafel sandwiches in the country. Kerewan Sound (Russell St), Gambia s best place Bus From Banjul, minibuses to Bakau (D6)
Michel s (%4223108; 29 July 22 Dr; h8am-11pm) to buy CDs and cassettes, and one of the very Gambia s once-exceptional bus network, leave from the stand diagonally opposite the
This is about the only restaurant in town few places that sells recordings by Gambian the state-owned Gambia Public Transport Shell station on July 22 Dr. If you re going to
that can be called classy. From the breakfast artists. Corporation (GPTC), has almost completely Fajara, take a minibus to Bakau and either
menu through to after-dinner drinks, this vanished in recent years. Most vehicles have walk from there (30 minutes) or take an
place offers excellent choices at decent rates. GETTING THERE & AWAY been worn out by the disastrous state of onward shared taxi to Serekunda and hop
Mandela Alles Klar Fast Food (Ecowas Ave; Air the upcountry roads, and the few remaining off in Fajara. Minibuses to Serekunda (D6)
The name is as great as the For details of international flights to/from buses are in poor condition. Nor do they and Brikama (D15) leave from a roadside
h10am-10pm)
food is greasy. But sometimes nothing but Banjul see p279. To confirm reservations on leave with any reliable regularity. You ll save corner one block northwest of July 22 Sq.
a grilled burger will do, right? a flight you ve already booked, it s easiest to yourself a lot of time and hassle by taking Add a further D2 for baggage. For more
King of Shawarma Café (%4229799; Nelson deal directly with the airline offices. a bush taxi upcountry, and it doesn t cost details see p114.
Mandela St; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) This friendly Air Guinée (%4223296; 72 OAU Blvd) much more either.
place serves excellent Lebanese food, both Air Sénégal International (%4472095; Ecowas Ave) Private Taxi
the wrapped-up and sit-down varieties, and SN Brussels Airlines (Map pp100-1; %4496301/2; Bush Taxi A short ride across Banjul city centre (known
what s even better, large glasses of freshly www.brussels-airlines.com; Badala Park Way, Fajara) Yellow taxis and minibuses to Brikama and as a  town trip ) in a private taxi will cost
squeezed fruit juice. West Coast Airways (%4201954; 7 Nelson Mandela St) upcountry towns, as well as to places in about D50, though you ll need to negotiate
southern Senegal, all go from the Serekunda to get this. From Banjul it costs about D150
DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT Boat garage near the market (see p113). For details to D200 to go to Bakau, Serekunda, Fajara,
The best places to drink in style are the bars Ferries (%4228205; Liberation St) run between about bush taxis to Senegal, see p287. Kotu or Kololi. Check the price with the
at the Atlantic Hotel, Palm Grove Hotel and Banjul and Barra, on the northern bank of driver before getting in.
Michel s. the river. Two boats chug slowly back and GETTING AROUND Hiring a taxi for the day costs around
Bacchius Beach Bar (%4227948; h10am-8pm) forth, and though they are supposed to run To/From the Airport D1000 to D1500, although this only applies
Next to the Palm Grove Hotel, this busy little every one to two hours, officially from 7am Arriving at the airport, you ll find green for tours around Banjul and the coastal
beach bar is a great place to while away a day until 7pm, delays are frequent. The trip is tourist taxis waiting  the yellow ones aren t resorts. For a tour out of the city most
or an evening, sipping a drink and digging supposed to take 45 minutes, but can take allowed a place in the queue. A tourist taxi drivers charge by the destination  the
into a platter of grilled fish. more than an hour if the tide is strong. from Banjul International Airport to Banjul, worse the roads they ll have to drive on, the
Queen s Nightclub (Rene Blain St; admission from D35; Passengers pay D10, while cars cost D150 Serekunda, Kairaba Ave or the Atlantic coast steeper the price.
to D200. resorts (Bakau, Fajara, Kotu and Kololi) Private taxis are plentiful during the day
h9pm-2am) If you want a night out moving
to an African beat, this is the only regularly The ferries take vehicles, but car space costs around D300 to D400. but difficult to find at night in Banjul. The
operating option in the capital. This is a is limited so you might have to wait for There is a cheaper way, though. Fend off the best place to find one is at the Atlantic
pretty raw scene, where women without a couple of hours (if it s any consolation, tourist-taxi drivers (no mean feat) and walk Hotel.
male company are very likely to feel leering trucks can sometimes be there for days).
looks lingering on them. It gets busy after You buy your ticket before going through
midnight. to the waiting area and keep it until you get
Golden Palace (%9925087; 10A Nelson Mandela St; off; it will be checked on the other side. If
you re coming from the north side by car,
h11am-1am) If you feel like gambling your
holiday budget away, try this place. It gets you need to purchase your ticket at the office
B A N J U L
BANJUL
© Lonely Planet Publications
98 www.lonelyplanet.com
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BANJUL