Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.mindspring.net.MISMATCH!news.mindspring.net!firehose.mindspring.com!bradb
From: bradb@netcom.com (Brad)
Newsgroups: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine,rec.answers,alt.answers,news.answers
Subject: Wine (the beverage) FAQ, part1 of 10 [LONG]
Followup-To: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine
Date: 30 Sep 2000 17:18:58 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 780
Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.EDU
Message-ID: <8r57a2$dei$1@slb6.atl.mindspring.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: c7.b7.09.74
Summary: A 10 part FAQ on the beverage wine with various asides
Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.food.drink:47101 alt.food.wine:64079 rec.answers:61450 alt.answers:51500 news.answers:192797
Archive-name: drink/wine-faq/part1
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Copyright: (c) 1995-2000 Bradford S. Brown (Notices/Disclaimers in pt. 10)
Last-modified: 2000/06/01
U.S. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.sbwines.com/usenet_winefaq [newest]
U.K. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.bath.ac.uk/~su3ws/wine-faq/wine-faq.html
-----------------------------------------------------------------
INTERNET GUIDE TO WINE
FAQ for alt.food.wine
rec.food.drink
(Frequently Asked Questions and More)
By
Brad and Dri Brown
------------------------------------------------------------------
Copyright 1995-2000 Bradford S. Brown
PLEASE READ THE COPYRIGHT INFORMATION AND DISCLAIMERS AT THE
END OF THIS GUIDE.
This version is date 26 July 1997, though it has been updated to
include more recent versions of Dean Tudor's List (see Appendix), up
through April, 2000.
To all who have sent me suggestions, please note many are not yet
contained in this version. There's a lot more to come. Thanks for your
help. If I have included your work and forgotten to give you credit,
please send me a note.
Posted updates occur approximately every four months or so. This
is because there is a lot more involved in creating this document
beyond the sheer typing. In order to create the Index and Table
of Contents in a way which is suitable for use on the Internet,
as opposed to being printed by page in a book, it must undergo
some homegrown programs which produce those items. Also, the
HTML version gets created in the same way. All of that isn't as
easy as I would like it to be (maybe someday when there is time).
Fortunately, at this point, a LOT of the "frequently asked
questions" are already in the FAQ and I'm working on the finer
details now.
The authors may currently be reached at bradb@netcom.com
A complete copy of this FAQ can be obtained by dropping us a
note or through the WWW at:
(US) http://www.sbwines.com/usenet_winefaq
(UK) http://www.bath.ac.uk/~su3ws/wine-faq/wine-faq.html
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Introduction
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_
Drinking wine is an experience. To drink for the purposes of becoming
drunk is not what drinking wine as an experience is all about. Wine is
food. Just like the delight which comes from eating your most favorite
food, wine, as food can provide similar enchantment.
But drinking wine has somehow also entered into the realm of snobbery.
This is a shame for it can (and does) prevent many from getting in on the
enjoyment of this marvelous product of nature. For that reason, I have
undertaken to prepare this guide, not as a wine expert (which I am most
assuredly _not_), but as an average drinker of relatively good wine. My
aim here is to try and explain about wine in a way that is understandable
but, I hope, not forbidding. With this intent, I may offend some
sensibilities or make some outright mistakes. Remember, I am relying on a
little bit of knowledge, and everyone knows what happens with a little bit
of knowledge. If I'm wrong about the facts, please let me know. If I get
carried away and the tone gets too pompous, pretentious, or downright
haughty, also let me know. Some *have* let me know that they think this
thing I call a FAQ is a wee-bit, shall we say, "wordy.". Perhaps, but I'd
rather err on the side of length. As with anything else in this world, you
don't have to look at it!
To the correspondent who let me know that I clearly personally knew
nothing about wine and was merely copying the work of others, I think he
missed the point. First, except where stated, so far as I know, I have
copied nothing. Any new book or article contains the ideas of author,
especially if he or she comes to the subject with enthusiasm. While I am
no expert, I definely have some ideas about the subject, especially when
it comes to breaking down the mystery and mystique that some seem to want
to bring to the subject. Wine is food. People like to eat--and drink. If
you choose to drink wine, do it to enjoy, not to be part of a cult.
Second, this was and is still meant to be a FAQ for "Frequently Asked
Questions." To cut down on the repetition of questions and answers in
Usenet, we started this project. The Internet is a marvelous way of
sharing information. See us here as a repository of that information
(notice we don't necessarily say "knowledge" here).
Because of the sheer volume of information, I am not following the
question and answer FAQ format. A Table of Contents and a comprehensive
Index are provided instead. The choice of what to include was made up from
the questions I have had about wine, suggestions from others, and from
watching the Usenet groups on the subject. Suggestions, comments,
criticism and whatever are welcome. While this already seems like a book
to me, I've actually tried to cut down on the verbiage. It will probably
get even longer through time. The discussion about the University of Davis
(especially given the global reach of the internet) is a case in point.
However, this being in nature a FAQ, topics which generate repeated
questions or a great amount of replies deserve, in my humble opinion, more
attention. Electronic "paper" is relatively cheap. In any event, I have
take a great deal of time to try to make the index and table of contents
broad enough to let the reader find just about anything--quickly!
Living in Southern California means that I get to enjoy the huge diversity
of the West Coast of the United States at, perhaps, a somewhat reduced
cost. It also means that I can visit the wineries and winemakers that
produce these wines from time to time. That is good. Unfortunately it also
means that I have virtually no knowledge of the wonderful (and to me, much
more expensive) wines of Europe and most of the rest of the world. This
guide is a compilation of information, and can grow, through time, through
the assistance of the Internet Community. Please send me comments,
information, or anything else you think belongs here. I don't expect early
versions to be earthshaking, merely distributed worldwide. What all this
means is that if I have the chutzpah to prepare a wine guide as a relative
novice, newcomers to wine can realize that they need not be put off by the
sometimes arcane world of wine and can join it without fear!
Since the making, drinking and enjoyment of wine is a huge subject (and I
certainly don't know all the answers), I've been necessarily superficial
in my answers (though perhaps longer, than in many FAQS!). This can lead
to argument about the validity of what I have had to say. Since this isn't
meant to be an encyclopedia, some sort of brevity is important. As I've
said, I have received comments that say some of the portions are too long.
Many feel that specific great wines of the world have been overlooked.
This is true, not just because this--so far--isn't a book, but because I
have made a conscious decision to not go too far out on a limb in
incorporating information about things about which I truly know _nothing_
and can't adequately satisfy for myself that the information sent to me is
correct. They say that more information is published on the Internet in
one week than is set to paper in a year. They don't say how much of it
(including, of course, this FAQ) is correct. With this as with everything,
caveat emptor--"Let the buyer beware."
I stand in the position of chronicler first, wine enthusiast second. Why
do I say this? I received a somewhat unfriendly note telling me that it
was clear from the FAQ that I knew very little about wine and that I was
merely repeating the thoughts of others. My response was that everything I
wrote (unless I said otherwise) was made up by me, but very well may have
been a distillation of information from elsewhere. On a subject upon which
there has been written so much, it is almost foolhardy to think that one
can contribute anything new in what is merely a primer on a subject, but
my intent here was to at least give out some information in non-stuffy
way, with my own views on the subject. Furthermore, as several have
mentioned, this is a rather wordy document for a FAQ. Nevertheless, it
tries to remain true to the concept of a FAQ, that is, to answer
Frequently Asked Questions in the hopes that it won't be necessary for the
friendly folks in the world, especially those who chat amongst themselves
using Usenet, to keep repeating the same answers over and over and over
and.... To that end, I am quite happy to try to distill the thoughts of
others and repeat them here. Ere what's a FAQ for?
In any event, everyone is urged to buy a book or two on the subject and
read away. More importantly, drink away and have a good time.
_PLEASE NOTE_
This is a _work-in-progress_. Some, but not all, of the mistakes pointed
out to me have been incorporated in this version. I'm still working on
fixing the errors and will then move on to incorporating new sections that
have clearly been areas of discussion in the Usenet groups I have monitored
One final note on the drinking of wine vis-a-vis the information in this
Guide. What _you_ like is the best rule of thumb. The experiences of
others are a handy guide but these experiences often get shrouded in the
myths, mysteries and ritual. This is off-putting and shouldn't be. In some
parts of the world, wine is drunk daily as a part of the meal. There's no
big conundrum about what glass to serve it in or how long to age the wine
(since most is drunk young). In other parts of the world, the United
States, for example, wine often is a restaurant's marked-up profit center
and the "rituals" of wine are haggled over incessantly. Since this Guide
is somewhat of a rulebook by virtue of its existence, I would like to lay
to rest the idea that this is what I have in mind in creating it. Use this
Guide to get into wine, if that is your goal. After that, just have fun.
Special thanks to the people listed in the Acknowlegment section!
The most current copy of the FAQ is available in text format by e-mail
from us at bradb@netcom.com. The most current WWW copies are found at:
(U.S.) http://www.sbwines.com/usenet_winefaq (newest)
(U.K.) http://www.bath.ac.uk/~su3ws/wine-faq/wine-faq.html
We hope you get some use and enjoyment out of our project.
Cheers!
Bradford Brown
July , 1997
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
I would like to acknowledge those who have provided special assistance,
and please forgive me (and e-mail me) for anyone I have forgotten! A lot
of mail has been received and not all of it has been sifted through, yet.
So far, thanks to John Bailin, Mike Christensen, Peter Curran, Thomas
Hill, Mark Levesque, Jim Karegeannes, Sandra Kidd, Daniel Harris Lapin,
Jason Brandt Lewis (who was kind enough to send me an entire f.a.q. on
port--which hasn't been included yet--as well as detailed information used
in "Fine Print, U.S. Style", Gloria Mercado-Martin, Matthew Mitchell,
David Murphy, Marcelo Portnoy, Bill Rohwer, David Tan, John Thorngate, Roy
Wilkinson. Some asked not to have their names included, our anonymous
thanks are given. Some merely sent small notes with little additions,
others provided large amounts of material. All of it was necessary and
appreciated!
A very special thanks to Paul S. Winalski who clearly spent a great deal
of time pointing out and providing changes for a number of specific areas
of the FAQ. His knowledge of wine and willingness to consistently help out
the Internet community is appreciated and I thank him for myself and on
behalf of all those who have learned from him.
Also special thanks to Jarrett Paschel who first made the FAQ available on
the World Wide Web.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
FAQ HISTORY
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here's where we'll try to keep up with changes/additions to the FAQ.
*July 1997*
Various additions have been made. Usenet ASCII version updated to
reflect WWW HTML version.
*November, 1996*
FAQ re-designed for the World Wide Web, including hyper-text links and
graphics. Some re-writes and corrections made. Many additions waiting in
the wings, so we wouldn't suggest re-reading the thing for a while if you
have already been through it!
_*Pre-History*_
FAQ written solely for Usenet and text archival purposes, starting in 1994.
Table of Contents
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Introduction
Acknowledgements
FAQ History
Table of Contents
I. What is Wine?
II. How Wine is Made
+ Growing Grapes
+ Phylloxera vastratrix
+ University of California at Davis
+ Harvest
+ Initial Processing of the Grape Juice
+ Turning Juice into Alcohol
+ Brettanomyces
+ From Fermentation to Bottle: Malolactic, Filtering and Fining,
Barrel Aging and Blending
+ Bottling Wine
III. Aging Wine
IV. Storing Wine
+ Cellar Software
V. Drinking Wine
+ Temperature to Drink
+ Opening the Bottle
+ Corks & Capsules
+ Corkscrews
+ Dealing with the Open Bottle
+ A Light Touch
+ Smelling the Cork
+ Decanting
+ Letting the Wine Breathe
+ Getting the Label Off
+ Flaws
+ Describing Wine
+ The Ritualisitic Art of Wine in Restaurants and other Quibbles
+ Restaurant Pricing
+ Glassware
+ Storing Wine After It's Opened
VI. Buying Wine
+ What Wine To Buy?
+ Where To Buy Wine
+ What is Wine Worth?"
+ "My Signficant Other Doesn't Like Red Wine"
VII. Wines
+ Red Wine Grapes
+ White Wine Grapes
+ What's In A Name?
+ Meritage
+ The Fine Print, U.S. Style
+ Champagne
+ Port
+ Dessert Wines
+ Botrytis
+ Eiswein a.k.a. Icewine
+ Other Sweet Wines
VIII. Wines Around the World
+ Argentina
IX. Food and Wine
X. Learning about Wine
+ Starting Out
+ Cyberbia
+ The Internet
+ Internet Resources
+ Miscellaneous Electronic Stuff
+ Printed Materials
+ Books
+ Mazagines and Newsletters
+ Miscellaneous
+ Courses on Wine
+ Wineries
+ Wine Tastings
+ Critics
XI. Physiologic Notes on Wine
+ Allergic Reactions
+ Calories
+ Pregnancy
+ Wine as a Sleeping Aid
+ Lead in Wine
XII. Touring the Wine Country
+ California
+ Canada
+ France
XIII. Miscellany
+ Importing
+ Kosher Wine
+ Making Your Own Wine
+ Pan-Galactic Gargle Blaster
+ Recipes
+ Shipping
Appendix A. An HTML Wine Bookmark Page
Legals
Word List
The following represents a key word list for the Wine FAQ. If you
have obtained the FAQ in parts, you should reassemble the parts and
then you may use your favorite software to search for the words as
they appear throughout the document.
If you have access to the WWW, the HTML version of the Wine FAQ
contains the following index with hypertext links to the appropriate
place in the FAQ where they appear.
Supported web site are located at:
(U.S.) http://www.sbwines.com/usenet_winefaq
(U.K.) http://www.bath.ac.uk/~su3ws/wine-faq/wine-faq.html
4-ethylphenol
75% Varietal Rule
A.O.C.
AVA
Accessible
Acetic bacteria
Aging Wine
"Aging" wine by shaking
Ah-So
Air Conditioners and Storing Wine
Alcohol Content
Allergic Reactions
All-in-One Page
alt.food.wine
American oak
Appellation
Appellation d'Origine Controlee
Approved Viticultural Areas
Argentina
Austere
AxR #1
Baby Icewine
Bacteria
Balance
Balthazar
Barbera
Barrel Fermentation
Beaujolais Nouveau
Beerenauslese
Bentonite
Beverage Media
Big
Bleaching corks
Blend
Blind Tastings
Blush
Bookmark Page
Books
Bordeaux
Bordeaux (Meritage)
Botrytis cinerea
Breathe
Brandy (and Port)
Brettanomyces
Brettanomyces (as a flaw)
Brix
Buttery (fermenting wine)
Buttery (desribing wine)
Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Sauvignon
California and Touring
Calories
Canada
Cap
Capsules
Carbon Dioxide (Champagne)
Carbon Dioxide (Fermentation)
Case
Cellaring
Cellars
Central Coast of California
Champagne (Champagne)
Champagne (What is Wine?)
Chardonnay
Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Chateau d'Yquem
Chenin Blanc
Chlorine
Chocolate and Wine
Cholesterol as affected by Wine
Clarification
Clay
Closed
Complex
Corkage
Corked
Corks
Corkage, fair
Corkscrews
Cotes du Rhone
Courses on Wine
Critics
Crud in the bottle
Cryoextraction
Dean Tudor's Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net
Decanting
Decanting Port
Declared Year
Dekkera
Dessert Wines
Deuxiemes Crus
Disgorgement
Distillation
Distilled Liquor
Double Magnum
Dry
Duck and Wine
Dumb
Duouro
Egg whites
Eiswein a.k.a. Icewine
Electronic Stuff, Miscellaneous
Enology
FAQ Design
Fermentation: What is Wine?
Fermentation: Juice into Alcohol
Fillette
Filtering
Fining
Flabby
Flaws
Foil
Food Combinations
Food and Wine
Fortified Wine (and Port)
Fortified Wine (What is Wine?)
France and Touring
French Oak
Freezing wine
Fume Blanc
Gamay
Garnacha
Gelatin
Generic Wine
Gewurtztraminer
Glasses, storing
Glasses, washing
Glassware
Gold Country of California
Gopher
Graft
Grand Premier Cru
Grapes
Grape Skins and Color of Wine
Grassy
Grenache
Grey Rot
Half Bottle
Hard
Herbaceous
Humidity and Storing Wine
Hybrid
Icewine a.k.a. Eiswein
Imperial
Importing
International Standards Organization (ISO)
Inert Gas
Internet, The
Internet Resources
Jails, Wine
Jeroboam
Kosher Wine
Labels, Removing from Bottle
Lactic acid
Laying Down
Lead as a health hazard
Lead Contamination from Foils
Lead Poisoning
Learning about Wine
Lees
Leverpull (tm)
Light
Light and Storing Wine
Liqueur de Tirage
Listservs
Louse
Madeira
Madeirized
Magazines and Newsletters
Magnum
Making Your Own Wine
Malaga
Malic acid
Malolactic fermentation
Marbles in the bottle
Marsala
Mature
Marie-Jeanne
Medical Notes
Menodocino
Mercaptan (and bottling)
Mercaptan (as a flaw)
Meritage
Merlot
Methode Champenoise
Methuselah
Microsoft Wine Guide
Mold
Mold (and Dessert Wine)
Moldy Corks
Muscatel
Must
Napa
Nebbiolo
Nebuchadnezzar
Newsletters and Magazines
Nigara Peninsula
Nitrogen
Noble Grapes
Noble Rot
Nose
Odors and Storing Wine
Okanagan Valley
Oporto
Opus One
Oxidize
Oxygen
Pan-Galactic Gargle Blaster
Parker, Robert
Paso Robles
Petite Sirah
Phylloxera vastratrix
Pinot Noir
Plastic Corks
Pint
Port
Port (Dessert Wine)
Porto
Pregnancy
Premier Cru
Proprietary Wine
Quinta
Quinta do Noval
rec.food.drink
Recipes
Refrigerators and Storing Wine
Rehoboam
Reidel
Remuage
Returning a flawed bottle
Reserve
Restaurant Pricing
Riddling
Riesling
Room Temperature
Rose
Rot
Ruby Port
Saccharomyces
Salmanazar
Sauterne
Sauternes (aging wine)
Sauternes (Dessert Wine)
Sauternes (grapes)
Sauvignon Blanc
Second fermentation
Sediment in Champagne
Sediment
Sediment (and Port)
Semillon
Semi-Generic Wine
Sherry (Dessert Wine)
Shipping Wine
Shiraz
Signficant Others Who Don't Like Red Wine
Single-Quinta Vintage Port
Smelling the cork
Sonoma
Sparkling Wine (What is Wine?)
Sparkling Wine (Champagne)
Split
Stainless steel
Starting Out in Wine
Still Wines
Storing Wine
Storing wine after the bottle is opened
Sugar
Sulfites
Sulfites and allergies
Sulfite "free" wines
Sulfur
Sulfur Dioxide
Sweaty socks
Sweet Wines of the Loire Valley
Sweet Wines of the Valpolicella District
Syrah
Table Wine
Tannins
Tastings
Tawny Port
Temecula
Temperature and Drinking Wine
Temperature and Storing Wine
Thin (and harvest)
Thin (describing wine)
Torrontes
Touring the Wine Country
Trichloranisol (TCA) 2,4,6
Trockenbeerenauslese
Unfiltered
Universal Disenfectant
University of California at Davis
University of California at Davis: A Graduate's Opinion
University of California at Davis: Brett
University of California at Davis: Courses on Wine
Unfiltered
Usenet
Vacu-Vin (tm)
Varietals
Varieties
Varietal
Varietal Wine
Variety
Vertical Tastings
Vibration and Storing Wine
Vinegar
Vines
Vins Delimites de Qualite
Vins de pays
Vins doux naturels
Vins ordinaires
Vintage
Vintage Date
Vintage Port
Viticulture
Vitis vinifera
Volatile Acidity
Weather
White Port
Wild yeast fermentation: Juice into Alcohol
Wild Yeast Fermentation: UC Davis
Wine and Spirit Education Trust Diploma
Wine Cellars, Building Your Own
Wineries and Learning about Wine
Wineries On-Line
Winery Tastings, Charging For
Wines of the World CD-ROM
Wives who don't like red wine
Wood
Wood Port
World Wide Web
Yahoo.com
Yeast
Zinfandel
--
Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.mindspring.net.MISMATCH!news.mindspring.net!firehose.mindspring.com!bradb
From: bradb@netcom.com (Brad)
Newsgroups: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine,rec.answers,alt.answers,news.answers
Subject: Wine (the beverage) FAQ, part2 of 10 [LONG]
Followup-To: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine
Date: 30 Sep 2000 17:19:40 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 491
Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.EDU
Message-ID: <8r57bc$vco$1@slb7.atl.mindspring.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: c7.b7.09.74
Summary: A 10 part FAQ on the beverage wine with various asides
Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.food.drink:47106 alt.food.wine:64084 rec.answers:61455 alt.answers:51505 news.answers:192802
Archive-name: drink/wine-faq/part2
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Copyright: (c) 1995-2000 Bradford S. Brown (Notices/Disclaimers in pt. 10)
Last-modified: 2000/06/01
U.S. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.sbwines.com/usenet_winefaq [newest]
U.K. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.bath.ac.uk/~su3ws/wine-faq/wine-faq.html
Note: This ASCII version was created by "washing" the
WWW HTML version through WEB2TEXT. This freeware
is available from Damien Burke at
http://www.jetman.demon.co.uk/software/index.html
This might lead to some interesting or odd formatting, since
it has to figure out just what was being done in the HTML
version. For example, bold text usually comes out with
an underscore on either side, e.g., _this is bold_ . There
may be other things, but generally speaking, it does a good
job!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
I. WHAT IS WINE?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wine is fermented grape juice. That's the standard answer. Actually, wine
can be made from all sorts of common and not so common foods. Things like
fruits, herbs and flowers. Most wine, though, is made from grapes. And no
matter what the wine is made from, there must be fermentation, that is,
that sugar be transformed into alcohol. If the amount of alcohol is
relatively low, the result is wine. If it is high, the result is
a "distilled liquor," something like gin or vodka. Or perhaps the ever
popular 151 rum ("flammable, use with caution").
By the way, as fermentation cannot increase alcohol content past about
16%, for at that level the yeast dies and ends fermentation. Higher
alcohol levels are archived through "distillation" (that is a lower alcohol
beverage is heated. Alcohol, evaporating first, is collected and the vapor
re-condensed).
There are red wines, pink wines (also known as "rose" or sometimes
"blush") and white wines. Since the inside of a grape is more or less
"white," red grapes can make white wine. The color comes from letting the
juice mix with the skins during the early wine-making process. A good
example of this is White Zinfandel. The Zinfandel grape is very red on the
outside. So, red grapes can make white wine, but white grapes can't make
red wine.
Wines might be "fortified," "sparkling," or "table." In fortified wines,
brandy is added to make the alcohol content higher (around 16 to 23
percent). Sparkling wines are the ones with bubbles, like Champagne. Table
wine (which can also be called "still wine") are the most "natural." Both
table and sparkling wines tend to have alcohol contents between 7 and 15
percent.
_
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
II. HOW WINE IS MADE
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Growing Grapes
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Grapes grow on vines. There are many different types of grapes, but the
best wine grape is the European Vitis vinifera. It is considered optimal
because it has the right balance of sugar and acid to create a good
fermented wine without the addition of sugar or water. It has been said
that the wine is only as good as the grape; a poor winemaker can ruin good
grapes, but a good winemaker isn't going to make great wine from inferior
grapes.
Now before I say anything else about grapes, let me point out an error I
have made in drafts of this document (and for all I know it may
persist--proofreading is an art). That is the difference between
"varieties" of grapes and "varietals." The word "varietal" means "of or
pertaining to a variety." Types of grapes are "varieties." Wines made from
a single variety are varietal wines. So, for example, a 100% Cabernet
Sauvignon wine is a varietal. The cabernet sauvignon grape, zinfandel
grape and merlot grape are varieties of grapes. (Of course, don't be
confused that, for example, United States law allows a wine to be labeled
Cabernet Sauvignon so long as it has at least 75% of that variety of
grape. Now, is that clear?)
Vines start producing grapes about three years after planting; a useable
crop after five years. They reach their prime in terms of crop yield
between ages ten and thirty. Vines can grow for a hundred years, though
production is reduced as they get older. However, reduced production
(which is also caused in other ways--growing in poor soil, lack of
irrigation, pruning the vines, climate, etc., the so-called "stressing the
vines") can lead to "better" wine. So some very good wines come from "old
vines."
Growing Grapes: Phylloxera vastratrix
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_
Wine has been around for thousands of years, but in 1863, catastrophe
struck. French vineyards were infested by Phylloxera.
Phylloxera is a louse that attacks the roots of the grape, causing the
leaves to fall off and eventual death of the plant. The bug had come from
America where the grapes were resistant to the creature. Phylloxera spread
quickly through much of Europe and would have been completely devastating,
except that a "cure" was found. It was possible to take Vitis vinifera and
"graft" it to American rootstock. The American rootstock was not affected
by phylloxera and the grafted grapes were the European variety.
French grapes grow well in soil rich in lime. Native American grapes don't
(and the wine they make is derogatorily described as "earthy" or "foxy").
American grapes were resistant to Phylloxera, the French grapes were not.
Why not create a "hybrid" that has the best qualities of both? (You could
grow the grapes from the hybrid, and this is done is some parts of the
world, however most the desired variety of European grape onto the hybrid
rootstock.)
There are many hybrids, but for California wineries, one particular hybrid
rootstock seemed to stand out among all the rest: AxR #1. During the
1960's, wine grape planting in California took off. (Some farmers in the
Napa valley saw their relatively inexpensive land soar to US $50,000 or so
an acre. It's interesting to see the old farmhouses with the shiny new
Mercedes parked in front of the homes of the luckier farmers--and no, I
don't think all the Mercedes belong to transplanted doctors and lawyers.)
AxR #1 was planted all over the place.
Unfortunately, it turned out that there were at least two types of
Phylloxera, known as Biotype A and Biotype B. AxR #1 was resistant to the
first, but not the second. Type B is now spreading like crazy throughout
the state. While there are other rootstocks to chose from, many producers
may not be able to withstand the cost of replanting and will close. (It
takes five to seven years for new vines to produce grapes--too long to
wait for many.)
The grower makes the decision on what stock to plant, but there are those
who have heaped a fair amount of blame on the people at the University of
California at Davis (UCD) for supposedly "pushing" AxR #1. It had been
known by the French for at least 50 years that AxR #1 was not perfectly
resistant. It would fail after 10 or 20 years in the ground. While AxR #1
has many good qualities, whether UCD did not make enough of AxR #1's
shortcomings remains a controversial topic.
Growing Grapes: University of California at Davis_
To some, scientific saviours, to others, an institution that caused severe
problems in the California wine industry. To all, it is clear that the
University of California at Davis (UCD) runs a highly-regarded enological
program which has brought modern science and technology into the process
of making wine. Find their excellent web site
[http://wineserver.ucdavis.edu/] at http://wineserver.ucdavis.edu/. The
school, as was explained to me by a graduate of the program, provides
higher education in enology (wine chemistry) and viticulture (grape
horticulture) and not, specifically, in the art of winemaking. Most
students opt to pursue careers in the wine industry and take "Planned
Educational Leave" to obtain first hand experience with a winery.
Nevertheless, some criticize that the wines created by UCD graduates are
all the same, "text-book chemistry" wines. They claim the UCD learning
experience produces predictable, "inoffensive" wine (and, for example,
shies away from wild yeast fermentation, a way to make wines, it is said,
with "more character"). All I can say is that I have had truly magnificent
wines from UCD graduates _and_ from people who started making wine in a
garage without any formal training at all. Wine making is an art, not an
exact science. In the end, it will be the _skills, taste_ and _artistic
expression_ of the winemaker that is crucial. As told to me by the Davis
graduate, it is ironic that a great number of the Davis "bashers" are
quite willing to contact the school whenever they have a problem their
"art instinct" can't solve. All the arguing hardly matters, if you don't
like a particular wine, vote with your pocketbook!
Why did the debate about Davis come about and why it is so volatile? What
follows is a rough summary of _one_ person's opinion (not my own, as I
have no true knowledge at all, at this point). Other people in the know,
feel free to contact me with their views!
-------------------------
A Graduate's Opinion of Davis From the Repeal of Prohibition through the
1960's
"Davis excelled at bringing modern science and technology into the process
of making wine. For example, Davis promoted the use of stainless steel
tanks, proper sanitation. controlled temperature fermentations, and
provided a better understanding of malolactic fermentation. In short,
along with the University of Bordeaux, UCD led the world in improving wine
making and answering all the straightforward questions.
At the same time the wine boom came to Napa, bringing a number of new
persons (into a formerly family oriented industry) who wanted answers to
the harder questions. Davis-trained enologists were trained in a more
food-processing approach to winemaking. No doubt some of them also went
out into their profession with a 'superiority' complex for having 'gone to
university' when the apprentice approach had previously been the standard.
It is probably no surprise that Davis began to get a reputation for
sending out young bucks who didn't know the first thing about the
practical aspects of winemaking. The result was a backlash against the
University.
Whereas once a Davis degree was a ticket to success (and certainly Davis
graduates occasionally got positions solely due to their degree, not their
abilities) as the industry slowed and jobs got more difficult to find the
Davis degree didn't work the same magic. Some winemakers then discovered
that they could make a name by Davis bashing (_their_ wines weren't just
_cookbook_ science, so to speak). About the same time the continuing
crisis involving AxR #1 began.
Davis bashers would point to the European traditions and enjoy reveling in
the grand reputation of that tradition and tossing off names of certain
selected great wines from certain selected great years (and ignoring the
fact that the bulk of European wine tends to be plonk--like U.S. jug
wines--and not first growth Bordeaux). Some winemakers had great success
with the so-called 'wild' fermentations and accused (with some accuracy)
Davis of resisting this method. However, for every successful 'wild'
fermentation which gained notoriety there probably was a poorly produced
wine.
In the end, the science that Davis contributes to the field is a vital and
important factor in the growth of the wine industry. It can smooth out the
rough edges foisted on the winemaker by variables which are all or part
out of his or her control (weather, pests, soil depletion, etc.). Innate
intuition may make good or even great wine, but science isn't going to
hurt, especially when the winemaker is open to _all_ ideas.
As has been oft stated, a consumers pocket book should make the judgment.
UCD makes recommendations based upon the best scientific evidence it can
accumulate. This might run counter to the anecdotal results of a single
winemaker's recollection or to the idea that a winemaker is an independent
iconoclast, unfettered by 'rules.' Free spirits may make good wine, so can
science.
The chemistry of wine is extremely complex and a great deal of ego is
involved on both sides of the Davis debate. One thing is, however,
certain. Davis does not dictate winemaking. Davis is merely a tool to be
used by people who want to make wine. How they use that tool is up to them
and to their abilities."
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Harvest
Weather is a major factor is determining whether a year is going to be a
"good vintage" (or "year"). For example, was there enough heat during the
growing season to lead to enough sugar? At harvest time, the short term
effects of weather are quite important. To produce great wine, the fruit
should be ripe (but not overripe), and have a high (but not overly high)
sugar content ("brix"; typically about a 22 brix for table wine). Think of
raisins. As the fruit dries, the water evaporates. What is left is the
sugary fruit. If it rains just at the point the wine grapes are ready, and
before the grapes can be harvested, the additional water will cause the
water level to increase, and the brix will go down. Not good. (You might
ask, why not just add some sugar in the wine-making process? Some do. Also
considered "not good.")
Every year the wine grape grower plays a game of chance and must decide
when to harvest. Simplistically, if you knew it wasn't going to rain, you
would just test the brix until it was just right, then harvest. If you
harvest too soon, you will probably end up getting a wine too low in
alcohol content (there won't have been enough sugar to convert to
alcohol). These wines will be "thin." If you delay harvest, there may be
too much sugar, which leads to too low acid content. This also affects the
taste (and the aging possibilities) of the wine.
During the harvest of 1989 I was in the Napa/Sonoma areas of California,
where there was scattered rain. Winemakers in the area were not a happy
bunch. As it turned out, this turned out to not be a great year "overall."
But, it depends. In some areas not 20 miles away, rain was not a factor,
in others it was. So you can't make a blanket statement that for _all_
wines it was a poor year.
Initial Processing of the Grape Juice
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Grapes can (and might still) be crushed by stomping on them with your feet
in a big vat. But a more practical way is to use a machine which does the
job (and at the same time, removes the stems).
What you get may or may not get immediately separated. Skin and seeds
might immediately be removed from the juice. Separation may not
immediately occur (especially for red wines), since skins and stems are an
important source of "tannins" which affect wine's taste and maturity
through aging. The skins also determine the color of the wine (see What is
Wine).
Maceration (the time spent while skins and seeds are left with the juice)
will go on for a few hours or a few weeks. Pressing will then occur. One
way to press the grapes is to use a "bladder press," a large cylindrical
container that contains bags that are inflated and deflated several times,
each time gently squeezing the grapes until all the juice has run free,
leaving behind the rest of the grapes. You can also separate solids from
juice through the use of a centrifuge.
Aside: When I first started drinking Chardonnay, my tastes ran to wines
with heavy flavors of oak (introduced in the barrel aging process by
storing in wood barrels). Then I was lucky enough to be at the Acacia
winery in Sonoma during harvest. The friendly people there had me take a
wine glass and hold it under the device that was extracting juice from the
grapes. Fending off the bees, which were very attracted to the sweet
fluid, I got a taste of absolutely fresh unfermented Chardonnay grape
juice. It was wonderful. I then knew what Chardonnay actually tasted like!
From that point on my tastes have run to a different balance of oak and
fruit flavors in the wine. The best way to learn about wine is to drink
it. Sometimes it even helps if it isn't even wine yet . . . .
Turning Grape Juice Into Alcohol
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Grape juice is turned into alcohol by the process of "fermentation."
Grapes on the vine are covered with yeast, mold and bacteria. By putting
grape juice into a container at the right temperature, yeast will turn the
sugar in the juice into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The grape juice will
have fermented.
Yeast gives flavor to wine. However things on the outside of a grape are
not necessarily so good for the production of good wine (for example,
acetic bacteria on the grapes can cause the wine to turn to vinegar). The
winemaker commonly eliminates unwanted contaminants by using the
"universal disinfectant," sulfur dioxide. Unfortunately, the sulfiteswhich
remain in the wine may cause a lot of discomfort to some wine drinkers
(see the section on _Allergic Reactions to Wine_). Some winemakers prefer
_not _to do this, and purposely create wines that are subject to the
vagaries (and different flavors) of yeast that is "wild," that is not a
commercial yeast strain used by the winemaker ("wild yeast fermentation").
By the way, some have said that these wild yeasts are found on the grape,
but a number of people have commented that there is no documentation that
any wild yeast living on the skins of grapes leads to alcoholic
fermentation. They propose that these "spontaneous" fermentations occur
due to commercial yeast populations that live in the winery and have
become "wild" over several generations--and have not been cleaned away or
otherwise eradicated.
The winemaker has many different yeast strains to choose from (and can use
different strains at different times during the process). The most common
wine yeast is Saccharomyces.
This is a good place to mention "Brett" or the Brettanomyces strain of
yeast. But since it is a side-light and this is written as a hyper-text
document, you can check it out now. Otherwise, you will find the
discussion as the next section.
As yeast works, it causes grape juice ("must") to get hot. But if there's
too much heat, the yeast won't work. One modern way to deal with this is
to put the juice into large stainless steelcontainers that have
refrigeration systems built around the sides. The winemaker can regulate
temperature precisely.
A less modern, but still wide widely used way to ferment wine is to place
it in small oak barrels. "Barrel fermentation" is usually done at a lower
temperature in temperature controlled rooms and takes longer, perhaps
around 6 weeks. The longer fermentation and use of wood contributes to the
flavor (and usually expense) of the wine.
The skins and pulp which remain in a red wine vat will rise to and float
on top of the juice. This causes problems (if it dries out, it's a perfect
breeding ground for injurious bacteria), so the winemaker will push this
"cap" back down into the juice, usually at least twice a day. In large
vats, this is accomplished by pumping juice from the bottom of the vat
over the top of the cap. Some winemakers use a screen to keep the cap
submerged at all times.
Eventually the yeast is no longer changing sugar to alcohol (though
different strains of yeast, which can survive in higher and higher levels
of alcohol, can take over and contribute their own flavor to the wine--as
well as converting a bit more sugar to alcohol).
After all this is completed, what you have left is the wine, "dead" yeast
cells, known as "lees" and various other substances.
From Fermentation to Bottle:
Malolactic, Filtering and Fining, Barrel Aging and Blending
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
The winemaker may choose to allow a wine to undergo a second fermentation
which occurs due to malic acid in the grape juice. When malic acid is
allowed to break down into carbon dioxide and lactic acid (thanks to
bacteria in the wine), it is known as "malolactic fermentation," which can
impart additional flavor to the wine. A "buttery" flavor in some whites is
due to this process. Since malic acid is perceived as more sour than
lactic acid, the process also reduces the perceived acidity of the wine.
Malolactic fermentation is much more prevalent in red wines than in
whites, with the smell of apples in white wine denoting the presaging the
presence of malic acid.
After fermentation, there still may be a lot of stuff floating around in
the wine which some winemakers want to remove. There are various ways for
the wine to undergo this "clarification" (for example, strain the wine
through something like cheese-cloth, called "filtering"), but the most
common way is called "fining."
When you make jellies, the recipes may sometimes call for adding egg
whites. The materials that cloud the jelly are captured by the egg and you
get a nice, bright result that looks really good in glass jars. It's the
same with wine, even down to using egg whites. Except that the most common
materials used for fining are gelatinor bentonite (a type of clay).
When and where to use heavy filtering and fining is highly controversial,
since removing these substances prevents the wine from obtaining flavors
from them, affecting the character of the wine. You are certain to hear
complaints about "over fined and filtered wine." The implication is that
such wines will have less flavor. For this reason some wines will say on
the bottle that they are "unfiltered."
The winery may then keep the wine so that there can be additional
clarification and, in some wines, to give it a more complex flavor. Flavor
can come from wood (or more correctly from the chemicals that make up the
wood and are taken up into the wine). When wood aging is used, wines are
stored most commonly in oak barrels. It it is considered by many that
French oak barrels give the best flavor and that they must be replaced
after several years of use. American oak is used by some producers and you
can usually tell the difference. Other producers will buy the older, used
French oak barrels and create wines that some feel are inferior (but they
probably _are_ less expensive). Some wines may never see anything but
stainless steel and the glass that they are bottled in. In any event,
using oak barrels puts an "oakiness" characteristic in wine. The wine may
be barrel aged for several months to several years.
Ignoring any additional processing that might be used, you could empty the
barrels into bottles and sell your wine. However, during the barrel aging,
the smaller containers may develop differences. So the winemaker will
probably "blend" wine from different barrels, to achieve a uniform result.
Also, the winemaker may blend together different grape varieties to
achieve desire characteristics. For example, blending a little Merlot into
a Cabernet Sauvignon can give is a more "mellow" taste. This process also
temporarily creates very purple stained teeth in the red wine maker. Other
blends may seem unusual. Recently I had a blend of 50% each Chardonnay and
Viognier. (I liked it.)
Bottling Wine
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
At some point the wine will be placed in bottles. Producers often use
different shaped bottles to denote different types of wine. Colored
bottles help to reduce damage by light. (Light assists in oxidation and
breakdown of the wine into chemicals, such as mercaptan, which are
undesirable.)
Bottle sizes can also vary:
_Applying generally to wines other than Champagne_
Split ------------------------------------------- 187.5 ml
Half bottle ------------------------------------- 375 ml aka Fillette)
Bottle ----------------------------------------- 750 ml
Magnum ----------------------------------------- 1.5 liter (2 bottles)
Marie-Jeanne -------------------- 2.25 liters (3 bottles) (Red Bordeaux)
Double Magnum ----------------------------------- 3 liters (4 bottles)
Jeroboam ---------------------------------------- 4.5 liters (6 bottles)
Imperial ---------------------------------------- 6 liters (8 bottles)
_Applying to Champagne bottles_
Split --------------------------------------------------- 200 ml
Half bottle --------------------------------------------- 375 ml
Pint ---------------------------------------------------- 400 ml
Bottle -------------------------------------------------- 800 ml
Magnum ------------------------------------- 1.5 liter (2 bottles)
Jeroboam ------------------------- 3 liters (4 bottles) (& Burgundy)
Rehoboam ------------------------- 4.5 liters (6 bottles) (& Burgundy)
Methuselah ----------------------- 6 liters (8 bottles) (& Burgundy)
Salmanazar ----------------------- 9 liters (12 bottles)
Balthazar ------------------------ 12 liters (16 bottles)
Nebuchadnezzar ------------------- 15 liters (20
bottles)
_And also:_
A _case_ is 12 bottles or 24 "half" bottles.
Just prior to filling the bottle, the producer may insert nitrogen, which
will sit above the liquid preventing contamination by oxygen. A capsule
will be placed over the top of the bottle. Originally made from lead foil,
fears of lead poisoning (and U.S. law) have brought about the use of other
metals, plastic, or even nothing at all.
--
Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.mindspring.net.MISMATCH!news.mindspring.net!firehose.mindspring.com!bradb
From: bradb@netcom.com (Brad)
Newsgroups: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine,rec.answers,alt.answers,news.answers
Subject: Wine (the beverage) FAQ, part3 of 10 [LONG]
Followup-To: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine
Date: 30 Sep 2000 17:19:01 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 495
Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.EDU
Message-ID: <8r57a5$cbd$1@slb6.atl.mindspring.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: c7.b7.09.74
Summary: A 10 part FAQ on the beverage wine with various asides
Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.food.drink:47103 alt.food.wine:64081 rec.answers:61452 alt.answers:51502 news.answers:192799
Archive-name: drink/wine-faq/part3
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Copyright: (c) 1995-2000 Bradford S. Brown (Notices/Disclaimers in pt. 10)
Last-modified: 2000/06/01
U.S. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.sbwines.com/usenet_winefaq [newest]
U.K. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.bath.ac.uk/~su3ws/wine-faq/wine-faq.html
III. AGING WINE
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Most people assume that the longer that you keep a wine, the better it
will get. So probably the most commonly asked question you hear is, how
long do I keep the wine before drinking? (Since its best to store wine
under certain conditions, like in a cool damp underground cellar, this is
known as "cellaring" wine.)
It is a _misconception_ that you _must_ age wine. The fact is, throughout
the world, most wine is drunk "young" (that is relatively soon after it is
produced, perhaps 12 to 18 months), even wines that are "better" if aged.
While some wines will "mature" and become better over time, others will
not and should be drunk immediately, or within a few years. Eventually
_all_ wine will "go over the hill," so even the wines meant to be kept for
many, many years should be drunk before its too late.
Wines which are expected to be matured in the bottle before drinking can
go over the hill faster if not properly stored. If someone is giving you a
very good deal on an old red wine that you would otherwise expect to be
great, start to wonder how it was kept! And a famous name on the label is
no guarantee whether a wine will age well (sometimes they make mistakes,
or the grapes that year ("vintage") just won't produce wines suitable for
extended aging ("cellaring").
Tannin is a substance that comes from the seeds, stems and skins of
grapes. (For a taste of heavy-duty tannin, try a strong cup of tea.)
Additional tannin can come from the wood during barrel aging in the
winery. It is an acidic preservative and is important to the long term
maturing of wine. Through time, tannin (which has a bitter flavor--"mouth
shattering"?) will precipitate out of the wine (becoming sediment in the
bottle) and the complexity of the wine's flavor from fruit, acid and all
the myriad other substances that make up the wine's character will come
into greater balance. Generally, it is red wines that are the ones that
_can_ (but do not have to be) produced with a fair amount of tannin with
an eye towards long term storing and maturation. The bad news is that you
shouldn't drink it young since it will taste too harsh (and probably cost
too much, besides). The good news is that (with a little luck) after a
number of years, what you get is a prized, complex and balanced wine.
Remember that red wines get their color from the stems and skins of the
grape. This gives the wine tannin and aging capacity. White wines may have
no contact with the stems and skins and will have little tannin (though
some can be added, again, through barrel aging). Therefore most white
wines don't age well. Even the ones which do get better through time will
not last nearly as long as their red cousins. A fair average for many
"ageable" whites would be about 5 to 7 years (some might go 10). On the
other hand, really "ageable" reds can easily be kept for 30 years and
longer.
So, how do you figure out how long to keep a wine before drinking it?
We'll get to a summary, but it _is_ just a summary. Check out other
sources for the particulars! The Internet provides a wonderful medium
through which people who may have the wine you are thinking about drinking
might already have done so. They usually are willing to share their
opinions. There are several Usenet groups to this end.
Two wineries, side by side, producing the same grapes and the "same" wine.
One ages considerably longer than the other. Why? While they are the
"same" grapes, perhaps the soil or microclimate (small variations in the
local weather due to terrain; what the French call "terroir") is just a
bit different. Maybe the vines are older. The winery may have processed
the wines differently (for example, heavy filtering). (In fact, even the
size of the bottle matters--a half bottle ages faster than larger
bottles.) There are lots of reasons, so general rules are just
that--general.
In any event, the red French Beaujolais Nouveau is meant to be drunk
within days. Its a light, fruity wine.
White wine is the next least aged wine. But here there is a range from a
light wine like Sauvignon Blanc or a light Chardonnay, to more ageable
"complex" Chardonnay of good White Burgundies. Probably drink the former
within a few years (aging isn't needed, and the latter from 3 to 7 years).
Dessert wines like Sauternes or other late harvest wines (Riesling,
Gewurztraminer, etc.) should be aged. Sauternes get better over a _very_
long time: 10, 20, 30, 40 or more years!
Then come the reds. While the vast majority of wines produced today _can_
be drunk immediately, a good number of red wines will benefit by SOME
aging and some will benefit from a _lot_ of aging. The ones that you open
now that taste like road tar may very well be fantastic in 5 or 10 or 20
years. Look to some French Bordeaux (maybe up to 30 years) or Cabernet
Sauvignon.
Getting more specific about some red grapes, rules of thumb *might* be for
the very best wines: Cabernet, 10 to 15 years; Merlot, 4 to 7 years for
many; Nebbiolo, 10 years or more; Pinot Noir, about 5 years to start.
Some people contend that while California wine won't "go bad" in the
bottle, it doesn't get any better--unlike French wines that mature (get
better) with cellaring. Don't ask me to explain this controversy as I have
had plenty of California wine that seemed to me to be better after aging
(but then, I said I wasn't an expert. On the other hand, I know I like it
when I drink it.)
So much for the summary. Didn't help much, did it? As you learn more and
more about wine, you get a feel for which wines are produced to be aged.
That doesn't mean that you still know when it is the _best_ time to drink
the wine. You need to check around. Ask fellow wine drinkers (and, any
unbiased wine merchant with whom you can establish a relationship). Get a
book that gives opinions. Read the magazines. Ask around on the 'net.
These resources have the ability to tell you what happened when _they_
drank the wine. Was it still good, is it starting to go over the hill, is
it gone? At least one correspondent tells me that Australian wines seem to
mature faster in Australia than in Europe, even if kept at similar
temperatures and humidities. Just one more reason why it is best to _ask_
(and taste) about individual wines.
Lucky ones (like wine critics or friends of expansive people with big
cellars) can get to be part of "vertical tastings." A "vintage" is the
year in which a wine is produced. Line up a particular wine on a table
with a bottle from each vintage, say, 1971 through 1992 and what you get
is a "vertical" of that wine. A young wine, designed to age, can taste
harsh (from the tannin). As you sample older and older bottles, the wine
will mellow. Flavors come into balance. The oldest wines will lose their
tannin and their fruitiness and eventually have a flat taste. Somewhere in
there is the vintage which tastes the way _you_ like it. That part is up
to you, not to the pundits. But their comments can help. There are lots of
resources (see Learning About Wine) which can help you get an idea which
wines should be drunk when.
When *we* first started learning about wine, we bought way too much white
wine, which somehow we still have. Some of it--which was wonderful when
purchased--can now *best* be described as awful. Since you'll hear the old
cliche that you should cook only with wines you would drink, that wine
isn't even good for cooking. I plan on trying to turn it into vinegar.
Aside: One of the first really "good" wines we had was a 1984 Acacia
Winery Lake Chardonnay. We bought a case of it and drank it slowly (like I
said, we've got a lot of white left over). A few years back we asked the
winemaker how it would be. His answer was "never open it . . . just
remember the way it was, you'll be happier." We're glad to say he was
wrong. As this is being written, that bottle was opened last night (it was
10 years old). Past its prime but still pretty good! So even the winemaker
may not always know, either.
When you are just starting out, it probably doesn't pay to buy many wines
for aging ("laying down"). First off, you are going to want to drink some
of them, and the ones that are "good" won't be so good this young, and
they'll cost too much besides. There are plenty of wines that are good
_now_. As you drink these wines, you'll get an idea of what types of wine
you like. With a little learning, you'll get an idea of the style of wine
you want to put away. And you may not make the mistakes we did, besides.
(On the other hand, we did manage to get a few wines that did age well and
we are just drinking now. So much for rules.)
Don't forget, how you store the wine will affect how long it lasts as
well. Even the size of the bottle will change its life. Getting good
advice about particular wine is the only good idea here.
IV. STORING WINE
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
What is the best way to cellar wine? If it is a wine that is meant to be
drunk within a year or so, you probably don't have to keep it in any
really special place (like an expensive refrigerator style wine
cellar--check the ads in the back of wine magazines for examples), other
than it should be relatively cool and out of the light. Some _do_ say,
"panic at 70 degrees" Fahrenheit.
For wines that should be aged, a cellar should have proper:
_Temperature_which does not have rapid fluctuation. 55 degrees Fahrenheit
is a good, but you can live with 50 to 57 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 14
degrees Centigrade). Wide swings in temperature will harm the wine. Having
too high a temperature will age the wine faster so it won't get as complex
as it might have. Having too low a temperature will slow the wine's
maturation.
_Humidity._ About 60 percent is right. This helps keep the cork moist. The
wine will oxidize if the air (and its oxygen) gets to it. If the cork drys
out, it can shrink and let air in. This is another reason to keep the
bottles on their sides. The wine itself will help keep the cork moist.
_Lack of light_.
_Lack of vibration_.
_Lack of strong odors_. Whatever it is that is causing the odor stands a
good chance of getting through the cork and into the wine.
If you live in or have a cave, you probably are all set. For the less
fortunate, you can buy (or even build) a wine cellar. Also, in some
places, commercial storage cellars exist. Every once in a while you can go
visit your wine. There are also "wine jails," wrought iron wine storage
cages that can be locked for people, I guess, who live in caves?
You should know that some people have not followed the temperature rules
and it is their opinion that the wines have not suffered. They have found
that _slow temperature swings_ from relatively cold to relatively warm
(but not really hot) have not drastically affected the wine. Nevertheless,
consistently storing wine at warm temperatures is going to age it faster
and breaking the other rules probably isn't going to help.
Many people ask whether or not their can gimmick an old refrigeratoror air
conditioner to store wine. This is not considered to be a very good idea.
To start, refrigerators are too cold. Though this can probably be remedied
by a new thermostat, there still are other problems. Wines prefer
humidity, but refrigerators are designed not to be humid. If you get
around this challenge, there still is the fact that refrigerators take no
effort to dampen the effect of the compressor turning on and off. The
vibrations throughout the appliance are not considered a good thing for
long term storage. Air conditioners aren't really meant to run at the
lower temperature needed by wine. If you manage to get the unit set to
such temperatures, the coils may "ice up." You also need to deal with the
humidity (get a humidifier). With enough home ingenuity, some common sense
and knowledge, and some homework, you can convert an entire room into a
wine cellar.
If you have the time, space, inclinationa and ability, you might want to
try buildingyour own wine cellar. See the BOOKS section for assistance.
Can this be done? Sure. The biggest hint is that you should build _big_.
There is the natural tendency to buy wine at a faster rate than you can
drink or store it. So while you're already at it, build for the future.
IV. STORING WINE
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cellar Software
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Large amount of wines tend to get lost around my house so the computer
comes in handy. Personally, I use a standard database program which I have
tailored to my needs. It only took about five minutes to set up the
database. There are wine specific software programs available (some even
including descriptions and lists of particular wines). I have not seen any
of them, but will list (in alphabetical order) those mentioned.
Cellar! Program
http://www.collectware.com
Elixir Data (CD-ROM)
http://www.generation.net/~elixir
Fuji Publishing Group Freeware Wines Online for Windows
ftp://ftp.netins.net/showcase/fujisoft/wow.zip (FTP download)
Robert Parker's
Wine Advisor and Cellar Manager software
http://www.winetech.com
WineBase for Windows
From Ken Tripp
[100035.2460@compuserve.com] : 100035.2460@compuserve.com)
http://www.winebase.com.au
V. DRINKING WINE
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Temperature
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Room temperature. Well, that's what you always hear. The problem is that,
at the very least, it is a bit inaccurate, and at the worst (as
demonstrated by a whole lot of restaurants around where I live) you
wouldn't want to drink it at 80 degrees Fahrenheit ("it's the room
temperature, isn't it?")
As cool wine warms, vapors rise off the wine. Since your sense of smell is
a very big part of what things taste like, getting those vapors into your
nose is important. Try drinking a bottle of wine that has been heavily
refrigerated. In some ways, it will taste a lot like water, or at least
tasteless alcohol. On the other hand, if you serve a little below room
temperature, you'll get the benefit of the vaporizing effect. So one rule
of thumb is to serve the wine 1 or 2 degrees below room temperature.
But, there _is_ a limit to the warmth. To some extent, you can use the
following hints for:
+ _Best red wines; "big" red wines:_ 59 to 61 degrees Fahrenheit, 14 to
16 degrees Centigrade.
+ _Lesser reds, rose, and "complex" white wines:_ 50 to 54 degrees
Fahrenheit, 10 to 12 degrees Centigrade.
+ _Less complex white wines:_ 46 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, 8 to 10
degrees Centigrade.
+ _Sweet white wines, Champagne:_ 43 to 46 degrees Fahrenheit, 6 to 8
degrees Centigrade.
If the wine is too cold, can you warm it in the microwave? I wouldn't
think so, but one correspondent tells me that he saw (they call this
hearsay, don't they) a notable wine expert do it with an old and expensive
bottle, so . . . . Personally, I find that holding the glass with my hands
usually gets it warmed up pretty quickly.
Call it scandalous, but I am quick to ask a restaurant to chill a red wine
(gasp!) which comes to me way above a proper drinking temperature.
V. DRINKING WINE
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Opening the Bottle
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
You can tell a little about the wine even without opening it. Besides a
moldy cork (see below), perhaps the "bottle fill level" known as ullage,
is lower than you expect. If the bottle was low to begin with (I'm told
not uncommon in some Italian wines), you don't have to worry about it. But
there are other causes. If the wine has been subjected to high heat, the
wine can expand and liquid may be forced out through the cork. Since heat
isn't good for wine, this can be an indicator of problems to come. On the
other hand, increase in ullage is natural over a long period of time and
even can be a selling point at auctions. Other problems that could cause
bottle leakage would be damaged corks or storage in a very low humidity
environment, which can cause the corks to dry out.
_Corks and Capsules_
Most corks are made from cork. Since cork is expensive, some wineries are
experimenting with making corks from plastic or other high-tech materials.
Since the idea of the cork is to keep what's inside the bottle inside, and
what's outside the bottle outside, it doesn't seem to matter what the cork
is made of. It is questioned by some, however, whether a non-cork cork
might allow the material it is made out of to leech into the wine with
harmful side effects to the wine and to humans. A screwcap (gasp!)
probably is better than a cork since it does the same job and can't "cork"
the wine. Screwcaps are now coming on the market in somewhat more upscale
wines (they've been on jugs for years--and don't forget that a lot of wine
comes out of "milk carton" type cardboard containers that certainly don't
have corks).
When you remove the "capsule" (the thing that covers the top of the bottle
around about where the cork is, which may or may not be made from some
sort of metal foil), you may find a cork which is discolored or even has a
lush growth of moldgrowing on top. If whatever it is hasn't gotten into
the wine (also check the "fill level"--if wine has leaked out it is a
further indication of trouble), then all you need do is wipe the cork off
with a damp rag, towel dry it a bit and remove the cork. Wipe off the top
of the bottle. Also check out the article on "corked" wine. People also
wipe off the top of the bottle in the hopes of removing anylead
contamination from the foil on older bottles of wine. To the best of my
knowledge, lead foil is no longer used. Since foil is merely decorative,
some producers are dropping the foil altogether.
Sometimes you may see something that looks likeglass crystals on the
bottom of the cork (or sometimes in the wine). Assuming no true
contamination from the winery, these crystals are probably the result of
tartaric acid in the form of potassium bitartrate(cream of tartar). While
I don't vouch for accuracy of the information is this guide, I'm told that
this is tasteless and harmless.
By the way, a handy use for leftover corks is to clean knives. Keeps your
fingers away from the blade, but lets you exert enough pressure to get the
blade clean.
_Corkscrews_
There are lots of different types of devices which will remove a cork.
Some are a lot easier than others. To me, one of the harder types is the
one that is invariably used by the waiter in a restaurant. I once asked a
waiter why he didn't use something easier and he told me that the manager
thought it made the place look more "professional." The only benefit I can
see from those sorts of corkscrews is that they are useful when pulling a
cork from a bottle of wine that is sitting in a cradle (and they have a
built in knife for cutting the capsule).
Some people don't like putting a hole into their cork (I guess they figure
they're going to use it again?) and use a cork puller known as an "Ah-So".
The device is made of two metal prongs which you wriggle back and forth so
that the prongs move down the side of the cork (sometimes pushing the cork
into the wine). When you hit bottom the tension lets you pull the cork
back up. I don't find these types very effective.
There are _expensive_ corkscrews, like the US $100+ Leverpull (tm) which
works, as many times as I have seen it in operation (mostly in winery
tasting rooms), quite well. (It is the sort of thing you would bolt to a
countertop.) But I don't actually see why you need to spend the money on
it (unless, of course, you are tasting room!). I've gotten pretty good at
using the Napa motel free giveaway corkscrew (you can get them for about
US $1). At home we like to use the approximately US $20 Leverpull (tm)
which has a Teflon coated screw and a nice long mechanism that extends at
a 180 degree angle at the top which you can push around with your finger
when the mechanism is extended (to distinguish from a slightly less
expensive model that you twist with your hand). Some people say "don't let
the screw go through the bottom of the cork." It does with the Leverpull,
but it does it so neatly there never are any particles that come loose (at
least so far!).
Dealing with the Open Bottle
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_A Light Touch?_
The first real rule is that you don't want shake up the wine (well, most
wines) very much. Get something that lets you get the cork out easily and
smoothly. Its a nice idea to find something that doesn't break the cork
off in mid-pull (there _are_ little hooks that will help you fish out a
cork you've been forced to push down into the bottle).
On the other hand, I knew one "wine expert" who swore that he could "age"
fine young red wines as if they were laid down for a decade, merely by
vigorously shaking the wine up and down and pouring them back and forth
between containers. I've done it. It "seems" to work. Assuming you find
the practice acceptable (there are those who will tell you this "bruises"
the wine) _and_ you think you can do it somewhat unobtrusively, it is one
way to deal with high wine list prices. Buy something young and shake it
up!
With fancy old red wines, it can get a bit more complicated. As wines
mature, sediment(which is tannic), described by some as "crud in the
bottle" will come out of the wine. If the wine is laying on its side, the
sediment will be along the lower edge of the bottle. The best thing to do
is stand the bottle upright a day or two before you plan to drink it. Then
the sediment can fall to the bottom of the bottle. Handle the bottle very
carefully. You don't want to mix the sediment back through all the bottle.
When you pour, stop before any sediment comes out.
If you haven't managed to get the bottle upright in advance, you can serve
the wine from a cradlewhich inclines the wine at about a 45 degree angle.
If you carefully open and carefully pour, the sediment will stay along the
bottom edge and out of your glass.
_Smelling the Cork_
Just because there was no discoloration or growth along the top of the
cork does not mean that is isn't possible that the cork hasn't caused a
problem with the wine, or that there isn't some other problem. It is
useful to smell the wet end of the cork before drinking the wine.
Sometimes it will give you advance notice that there is something wildly
off about the wine, including that the wine may be "corked." See the
section on What to Do In a Restaurant for more about this practice.
_Decanting_
This is where you pour the wine out of the bottle into another container
(a "decanter"). Properly decanting a bottle lets you get rid of sediment.
Use a candle behind the neck of the bottle to see when sediment gets to
the neck (I'm repeating the standard line here---Assuming you don't get it
close enough to heat up the wine, is there some reason you can't use a
light bulb?). Stop pouring as soon as you see the sediment. Not all wines
have sediment, but old vintage Port does and is always decanted for this
reason. Some people will decant through cheesecloth, wire mesh placed in a
funnel or even coffee filters.
Some wines will say on their label that they are "unfiltered." (See the
section on fining and filtering.) If you find that there is sediment in
such wine, go ahead and decant, but just because a wine is unfiltered
doesn't necessarily mean that there will be sediment.
There are other reasons to decant wine. For example, some young white
wines may be have a sulfurous quality which can be removed by spirited
decanting. Decanting also lets red wine "breathe," giving any bad but very
volatile chemical compounds in the wine a chance to evaporate ("blow off")
so they're not there when you serve it.
_Letting the Wine Breathe_
Some wines (for examples some Burgundies and Bordeaux) when young are
"accessible," meaning that you can detect the bouquet and flavors that are
and will be in the wine. But then chemical reactions take place and the
wine closes up (becomes "closed"). What was there before is harder to
perceive. The wine gets, as they say, "dumb." Aging the wine causes the
wine to again open up (tannin, a bitter flavor, turns to sediment and
won't be tasted--if it isn't poured into the glass!), and is more
"complex." Since letting oxygen in the air get to wine can help to open it
up, decanting will help this process along, though not as much as aging it
would.
Be forewarned, however. Not all wines benefit from this airing (known as
"letting the wine breathe"), for example, fine Burgundies. Also, you can
allow a wine to breathe too much. While oxygen helps to open up the wine,
it alsooxidizes the wine, which will eventually ruin it. Finally, a wine
that is "over the hill" isn't going to get anything from breathing, since
it is already "gone." Experience is important here. In any event, if you
don't know, don't decant. While there are those who advocate letting wine
breathe, most don't, or when they do, advise a relatively short period of
time (an hour for young reds, 2 to 3 hours for older fine reds; and some
say don't decant until just before drinking).
Some people will let a wine breathe by opening up the bottle, but not
decanting it. This really isn't of much use since not much oxygen is going
to get down that small neck.
The trick of shaking the wine so that it forms like soda pop is certainly
an extreme example of getting oxygen into wine; but if it works....
--
Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.mindspring.net.MISMATCH!news.mindspring.net!firehose.mindspring.com!bradb
From: bradb@netcom.com (Brad)
Newsgroups: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine,rec.answers,alt.answers,news.answers
Subject: Wine (the beverage) FAQ, part4 of 10 [LONG]
Followup-To: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine
Date: 30 Sep 2000 17:19:26 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 409
Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.EDU
Message-ID: <8r57au$7ro$1@slb3.atl.mindspring.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: c7.b7.09.74
Summary: A 10 part FAQ on the beverage wine with various asides
Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.food.drink:47108 alt.food.wine:64086 rec.answers:61457 alt.answers:51507 news.answers:192804
Archive-name: drink/wine-faq/part4
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Copyright: (c) 1995-2000 Bradford S. Brown (Notices/Disclaimers in pt. 10)
Last-modified: 2000/06/01
U.S. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.sbwines.com/usenet_winefaq [newest]
U.K. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.bath.ac.uk/~su3ws/wine-faq/wine-faq.html
Flaws
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Due to improper production, handling or storage, there are a fair amount
of things that can go wrong with wine--most of which should be cause to
return a wine if ordering in a restaurant. Some wine merchants will also
take back a flawed wine, though I suspect only for their best customers.
How often a wine is flawed turns out to be a controversial questions. Some
people feel that 1 out of every 12 wines they consume is flawed.
Personally, I don't find anywhere near that many wines to be a problem
(but then I don't have the wherewithall to consume a lot of _really_ old
wine).
A good number of people, when faced with a bottle that doesn't seem right
(or is just plain awful) will say that it is "corked." They have come to
use the term as a catch-all for all flaws. So just what is a corked wine?
_Corked Wine_
To me corked wine has the flavor of wet, musty cardboard. Once you have
really tasted a corked wine, you'll know what it is--it is not subtle. It
is caused by trichloranisol [(TCA) 2,4,6], a compound released by molds
that can infest the bark from which corks are made. One theory: you can't
get TCA without chlorine, which is used to bleach corks (for aesthetic
reasons). If corks aren't properly rinsed and dried this problem can occur.
If you haven't been "lucky" enough to experience a corked wine (at least
for educational purposes), apparently you can buy the odor of the stuff
from enterprising entrepreneurs. One advertised business is: The Wine
Trader, attn: "Corky," P.O. Box 1598, Carson City, Nevada 89702.
_Other Flaws_
While some people attribute all flawed bottles to being corked, there are
a number of other things that can go wrong. A non-exhaustive list follows.
+ _Brettanomeyces(Brett)_. Earthy and/or manure type smells caused by
the Brettanomeyces strain of yeast. Liked by some (for example particular
French wines), disliked by many California vintners. In small amounts, can
add "character" to a wine. Too much, and forget it.
+ _Dekkera._ Another wild-yeast caused flavor of fresh dirt or cement.
Liked by some (for example in some Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone and Italian
red wines), disliked by many California vintners. Dekkera can also come
from contaminated equipment and barrels.
+ _Madeirized. _Wine subjected to oxygen or heat through poor storage
which ends up tasting like Madeira or Sherry. No fruit flavor left.
Off-color.
+ _Mercaptan._ Smells of garlic or onion or even of skunk. I'm told that
this is much of the cause of the "foxy" flavor produced by grapes native
to North America. It is said that the term "foxy" came about because there
wines were often made from the Fox grape, where the flavor was first seen.
+ _Sulfur._ Burnt match smell caused by too much sulfur dioxide (used in
the winemaking process) and rotten egg smells caused by hydrogen sulfide
from bacterial contamination. Depending on what it is, it might go away if
you air the wine for a while.
+ _Volatile Acidity._ Smells of vinegar. May go away if you air the wine
for a while.
There are long lists of flaws and descriptions in _*How to Test and
Improve Your Wine Judging Ability*_ (see BOOKS section), and _*Elements of
Wine Tasting*_ (American Wine Society Manual #11).
Something that probably _isn't_ a flaw are tiny glass like crystals on the
bottom of the cork (or sometimes in the wine). Assuming they really aren't
glass from the winery, they probably the result of tartaric acid in the
form of potassium bitartrate (cream of tartar). I'm told that this is
tasteless and harmless. I've seem them and they haven't hurt me!
A final note about flawed wines. If you are on good terms with the store
or winery from whom you purchased the wine, they will often replace a
bottle which is flawed. No harm in trying!
Describing Wine
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lots of terms have come about on how to describe wine. When you hear them
tossed about and you don't know anything about them, you can feel lost
_and_ the people using them may sound more than a bit lofty. But after a
while you'll find that you'll start using the terms too! I think I was
just a little bit amazed the first time I said the wine I was drinking had
a nice "nose!" And I used it correctly, too.
The biggest point I wasn to make here is that you shouldn't let yourself
get bogged down in the terms. Drink the wine. Enjoy it. Eventually you may
search for a way to describe it and you might then find that these words
are close to what you want to say!
There are a lot more terms than what follows, but here's a sample to start:
+ Austere: The wine is kind of stiff or tight, sort of hard. Hard to
tell other traits.
+ Balance: Describing the relationship between tannin, acid and alcohol.
You want to drink a "well-balanced" wine.
+ Big: A strong, perhaps alcoholic wine. It is a good wine that can get
better.
+ Buttery: A sort of smooth feel and taste, like butter. Most often seen
in white wines which have undergone malolactic fermentation.
+ Dry: If sugar remains in the wine it is sweet. When it isn't sweet,
its dry.
+ Flabby: A bland tasting wine that isn't going to get any bet-ter.
+ Grassy (or herbaceous): Smells like grass. Often seen in Sauvignon
Blanc.
+ Hard: A wine that has a lot of tannin still in it, like a young fine
red. The tannin keeps you from tasting the other qualities of the wine
which will come out through maturation.
+ Nose: The totality of what you smell.
+ Thin: A watery sort of wine.
I have been told that the book "Masterglass" by Jancis Robinson contains
an excellent, unpretentious list of terms. There is a very large WWW
glossary of wine terms at:
http://metcon.met.co.nz/nwfc/beard/www/wine_glossary.html.
The Ritualistic Art of Wine in a Restaurant and other Quibbles
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Its one thing to learn about wine, buy it and drink it. Ah, but then comes
the restaurant. There's all those _rules!_ Who do you talk to? How do you
do it? What do you do when they stick the cork down in front of you. (And
what happens when you're sure you want to drink a [geh-vertz-tra-MEEner],
but can't pronounce it let alone, spell it?)
The evening's fun starts with the wine list. If you're lucky they've
brought it to you. If you're _very_ lucky, they've brought _all_ of them
to you. [I can recall eating in one of the "best" restaurants in a capitol
city of one of the United States. The waiter never mentioned that they had
a "special" wine list with the "better" wines on it. He had only brought
the short, less-expensive list of decent but not as fine wine. One wonders
if they didn't intend to sell the good stuff? Maybe it was how I looked.]
An informative wine list will tell you the type of wine, the producer of
the wine, where it was grown (though with some wines, that is inherent in
the name), and the vintage (year) that it was grown. Since there can be
considerable variation in vintages (or the wine may be just too young),
this is an important piece of information. If the wine list doesn't say,
ask! If they won't tell you, have them bring the bottle and reject it if
it doesn't suit your wants. Do not be seduced by the process. If they
bring a much younger wine than is listed, odds are it isn't worth the
price on the menu. Ask for a price reduction. If they won't, tell them to
forget it. The best ammunition is to not buy any wine at all--most
restaurants use it as a profit center.
[OK, so I'll admit it. When we first started drinking wine in restaurants,
we brought along a little pocketbook guide that told us what were good
wines. We'd sneak a look at the guide, then confidently and boldly
order--hoping that we got the pronunciation right.]
Now lets say you don't know about the wines on the list (and haven't
sneaked in your handy guide). Once again, ask. In a good restaurant, the
waiters will have a good working knowledge of the "wine list." And in some
restaurants (more in Europe than in the United States), there will be an
individual (the wine steward or Sommelier) who's only job is to work with
the wine. Often this person can be invaluable in choosing a wine for you
that perfectly matches the food. A word of warning: Sometimes their job is
to point out the most costly wine they think they can get you to pay for.
I'm not saying this is the norm, but caveat emptor always applies.
Personally, we decide on what we are having for dinner before we order the
wine. This seems to perturb most waiters and wine stewards who always seem
in a rush to have us order. While they _might_ be trying to do the right
thing by getting the bottle opened as soon as possible, we're usually more
interested in the food to start. The waiter can wait.
If you have come to drink wine first and food second, then by all means,
order the wine and then match the food to it. Frankly, however, we eat at
restaurants for food. Wine is cheaper at home, _especially_ once you have
started collecting it.
When your wine comes, look at it. Make sure it's the bottle (and vintage)
you ordered. Busy staff can and _do_ make mistakes. The server will remove
the capsule (the wrapper on the top of the wine, which traditionally was
made of lead foil but is giving way to supposedly less toxic materials
like aluminum or even plastic--or least toxic--nothing at all). The top of
the cork should be wiped off (it can be moldy or have other contaminants),
then removed.
The cork is usually then given to the person who ordered the wine. Why?
What do you do? This is where some people start to squirm. Don't worry,
there is a reason for this. And it even makes sense. Once you know the
reason, you know what to do.
So what's the reason? Alright, actually I've heard two equally plausible
stories. Both sound correct, or at least useful. The first is that if you
take the cork and sniff it you may note some off-smells. This can be your
first indication that the wine has problems. If it is corked or has turned
to vinegar, you'll not likely want to keep the wine. (There are other,
sometimes more subtle things that can go wrong.) The second is the idea
that someone between the winery and the consumer may figure that unknowing
wine neophytes couldn't tell or wouldn't complain about a wine no matter
what. So they _switch_ the wine by opening the bottle, replacing the good
stuff with something cheaper and then re-cork it (I guess with a different
cork). So the cork is shown to you so that you can see that it has the
marking of the winery that produces the wine you ordered.
Certainly you can check the cork to see if it is moldy (though usually you
can spot this from a block away, and it doesn't necessarily mean that the
wine is bad). You can see if it is moist. If it isn't it might mean the
wine wasn't stored properly (but doesn't mean the wine isn't bad, so I
don't know how this may help at this point). One wag recommends that as
the cork is placed before you, you pull a cork out of your pocket and hand
it to the server. The point being, I guess, that there is little
usefulness in the cork ritual. Most people are going to sip it anyway.
Some revel in the standoff of leaving the cork completely ignored and
deciding if the server thinks you either imbecile or expert. Another wag
relates the story of dining with a friend in an elegant restaurant. When
the friend was presented with the cork, he ate it. A lot of people have
written me to say they think the whole cork ritual is useless.
The person who ordered will then be poured a small amount of the wine for
tasting before drinking. If you smelled the cork, you may have a good idea
if there is something wrong. Give it a small sip. If the wine is bad,
there is no reason for you to drink it. Send it back. Most restaurants
will accept back a bad wine gracefully. But . . . , one should not be
hyper-critical. Many people will tell you that only 1 in a 1000 bottles is
bad, others place it at 1 in 50. Some go so far as to say 1 in 12. Our
personal experience is that it has been a *fairly* rare occurrence. _Do
not_ send back a wine that "is good" but you don't like. You ordered it.
The same applies to particularly older wines that you know darn well might
not have survived. Though you _can_ distinguish this last by recognizing
the difference between a bottle that has gone "over the hill" and one
which is corked, oxidized or otherwise bad. You shouldn't have to pay a
restaurant for something that is bad for reasons beyond your control.
You probably have seen people "swirl" wine around in their glass. Is that
another part of arcane ritual? Sure, but it also has a very good reason.
Swirling releases the smells of the wine, which are very important to
enjoying the full experience of drinking it. You can swirl the wine
around, stick your nose in it, even suck it through your teeth. All these
things "bring out" the wine. I _like_ to swirl, then sniff, then sip.
Sometimes I manage not to swirl it onto the tablecloth, too. (See the
section on glasses.)
An interesting point was sent to me by a correspondent which I think is
worthy of reproduction (almost) in full: "Incidentally, you don't usually
need to taste a wine to tell it is off. The nose is enough. Just give the
glass to the server and ask him what he thinks if you're not sure. Most
aren't confident enough to assert that the wine _is_ OK to your face." And
whether they are knowledgeable enough or not, "turning the initial tasting
from confrontation to discussion will probably improve your chances of
getting good wine."
Check out the discussion on what temperature a wine should be when served.
There's nothing that should keep you from insisting that a restaurant do
the same for you what you would do at home. That's what ice buckets are
for. I've been in plenty of "fancy" restaurants that have brought out a
fine red wine at 70 degrees or so, Fahrenheit. Yuck.
I have learned not to have any compunctions about making it quite clear
how I want to drink wine in a restaurant. It is a fact, of course, that
I'm paying for it. One particularly expensive San Francisco establishment
that supposedly prides itself on its wine list sent out a red wine that
was clearly too warm. As I mentioned above, there are way to deal with
this, if you want to. When the waiter was informed that we wanted the wine
cooled, he looked at us like we were the idiots we apparently were, told
us that he certainly wouldn't want the wine to "close up" and was
generally nasty. When I asked him just what temperature the wine had been
stored at, he came up with 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Now this is about 5
degrees too cold (on average) of what the "perfect" cellar temperature
would be (and I would expect perfection from this place.) Since it was
clearly not that cold and was, in fact, too warm, we decided that we
besides believing in the strength of our convictions, we would never again
visit this establishment. We insisted on what we wanted and made sure his
tip represented our displeasure.
Another poor restaurant practice is the one of overfilling the glass. I
haven't yet figured out if the majority of these errors are due to
unskilled servers or from training designed to move a greater volume of
wine through the cash register. Perhaps they don't want me to pour the
wine since I'll probably stain the tablecloth with drops of red wine (and
I do). Maitre d's and servers scurry to my table in horror when I pick up
the bottle. I have found, however, that there are very few restaurants
that know how to keep a perfect fill level in a glass and that I am
willing to risk their wrath and insist that I pour my own. Just by way of
contrast to the prior restaurant horror story, I can say that there are
some places that do know what they are doing. A very good restaurant,
associated with a winery, in California's Napa Valley not only kept the
fill level at just exactly the right level throughout my meal, they did it
without my even noticing. A rare treat, in my experience.
Restaurant Pricing
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
For many years and in many places, the cost of wine has been a standard
mark-up of the retail cost, say two to three times retail. But in many
cases a restaurant probably isn't paying retail--in fact, the price to
them is often less to much less than what it would cost you at the winery.
The huge mark-ups paid by the customer are an incredible amount to pay for
wine and often means that there is more profit in the wine than in all the
other food combined. Certainly if the restaurant can get customers to pay
such inflated prices (and perhaps by doing so subsidize their otherwise
perhaps fine cuisine), then so be it.
But personally I think that it is time to not give in. There are several
ways to go about this:
+ _Learn the better buys._ For example, where I live, (Red) Zinfandel is
not nearly in as much demand as Cabernet Sauvignon. The bargains are
better (and I like it anyhow). Lesser known wines may be just as good or
better than the more expensive "name" brands.
+ _Some restaurants_ (as limited by local law) who are not allowed to
sell wine may allow you to bring your own. It would be a good idea to ask
for details before showing up, however.
+ Some restaurants (as limited by local law) will allow you to bring
your own (even if they have a wine list) and charge you a "_corkage_"
charge for the privilege. If you have some special wines at home, the
corkage charge is rarely going to come close to the cost of the same wine,
were it on the wine list. Note that it is bad form to bring a wine that is
on the wine list. At least one Internet poster claimed that there was not
a "single true gourmet restaurant in New York, Boston, or Washington"
which allows customers to bring their own wine. While I'm willing to doubt
the statement, I know for a fact that this just plain not true in Southern
California. In any event, it would be a good idea to ask for details
before showing up, however.
+ _Boycott the restaurant _(or boycott buying wine in the restaurant).
When doing this is probably will have a much better effect if you let the
restaurant know what you are doing.
Some restauranteurs are truly devoted to a fine evening at prices that are
not horrendous mark-ups. The meal may not be inexpensive for fine
ingredients are expensive, but the mark-up over cost is certainly not
fixed. There is something to be said for the cost of cellaring the wine
(and keeping good glassware--which breaks--to serve it in). Also, local
laws may mean that the restaurant isn't necessarily paying anything less
than retail. However, there are enough fine restaurants in this world that
one should seek out and promote the ones who are willing to present a fine
meal without gouging. In so doing, they will do even more business and
will "make up," at least to some degree, profits "lost" from not
over-charging on the wine.
Some will ask: "how much is gouging?" I don't have an answer for that. But
I can tell you that one local restauranteur (in one of the best
restaurants in California) would rarely add more than a fixed amount (say
$8 for the more expensive wines) over what he paid. Not a fixed
percentage, merely an amount that was about the same as his corkage fee
(and less for the less expensive wines). It seemed fair to me.
And speaking of gouging, what is a fair corkage? Well, just what is the
corkage for, anyhow? I said above that perhaps corkage covers the cost of
serving since the glass gets dirty or can break. But then, everything else
gets dirty including the spoons I don't use because I don't order dessert
or coffee. Well, alright, glassware *might* be more expensive. Persuasive?
Then there is the cost of storing wine. If people kept bringing their own
wine, storage costs would go up, since you would have less room. But then
you wouldn't need to buy more wine if you had a good idea of how much you
needed, and the wine you stored would go up in value as it aged (except
for wines that eventually go bad). Knowing how much to buy and how much of
what is the key. Pesuasive? Corkage can be the way the restaurant makes
the profit it isn't getting when you don't but their marked-up wine. But
you don't have to drink any wine. Persuasive? Finally, perhaps corkage is
the way the restaurant discourages you from bring you own wine. I've noted
the price of corkage going up of late. At least one restaurant raised its
corkage because it was trying to bring them in-line with the more
expensive, fancier places. Does this tell you anything about what corkage
is about? There is nothing that says you can't negotiate with a
restaurant. If you are a good customer and you make it clear that you will
either take your business elsewhere (or perhaps worse for them), come and
not buy wine, then their idea of what they want to charge may change. It
is all business and you as the customer may, in at least some situations,
have more control than you think.
There are those that like to bring up the mark-up on carbonated beverages
(where it is oft stated that the cost of the container is higher than the
cost of the liquid itself--and in any event can be measured in pennies).
It is said that if you don't complain about that outrageous mark-up you
have no right to complain about wine mark-ups. Personally, I won't order
carbonated drinks for that reason. In any event, I don't buy the argument,
however. $1 is a lot more affordable than $50.
While restaurants are in business (and it can be a very risky business) to
make money, some restaurants are willing to charge less. There are those
who make cogent arguments that high prices for wine are merely the way
that a restaurant can stay in business--and they are entitled to make as
much as then can. But I am friendly with enough restauranteurs (and good
ones, for that matter) who feel that a more reasonably priced wine list is
part of the way that they want to do business. For that reason, I spend
more in such places overall. I'll usually leave the over-priced places to
those who are willing to pay.
Supply and demand is controlled by the buyer. A restaurant which puts
emphasis on a good and fairly-priced wine list may find that it will
attract a great deal more customers. We, the wine-buying public, should
seek out such establishments and prove it.
One interesting sidelight to this discussion: It has nothing to do with
those restaurants who cater to people who have all the money in the
world--and act like it. I doubt I would be comfortable in such a place.
Well, I know I'm not, having tried a few--and I don't think wanted me
there, either.
--
Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.mindspring.net.MISMATCH!news.mindspring.net!firehose.mindspring.com!bradb
From: bradb@netcom.com (Brad)
Newsgroups: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine,rec.answers,alt.answers,news.answers
Subject: Wine (the beverage) FAQ, part5 of 10 [LONG]
Followup-To: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine
Date: 30 Sep 2000 17:19:27 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 404
Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.EDU
Message-ID: <8r57av$5ab$1@slb3.atl.mindspring.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: c7.b7.09.74
Summary: A 10 part FAQ on the beverage wine with various asides
Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.food.drink:47109 alt.food.wine:64087 rec.answers:61458 alt.answers:51508 news.answers:192805
Archive-name: drink/wine-faq/part5
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Copyright: (c) 1995-2000 Bradford S. Brown (Notices/Disclaimers in pt. 10)
Last-modified: 2000/06/01
U.S. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.sbwines.com/usenet_winefaq [newest]
U.K. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.bath.ac.uk/~su3ws/wine-faq/wine-faq.html
Glassware
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
The size and shape of the glass can contribute to the enjoyment of
drinking wine. Whether you need to spend a fortune on your glasses (which
I tend to break a lot of when cleaning up) is another story altogether.
Generally speaking a glass with a long stem lets you swirl the wine more
easily (swirling helps bring out the smells of the wine, which is very
important to the tasting process). The long stem also keeps the heat of
your hand away from the wine. (Of course, with the way I've been served
some wines, you have to grasp the bowl of the glass firmly and often just
to warm it up!) In order to capture the scents, its nice to have a glass
that is more narrow at the top than the area below (in other words, a
large bowl). In this way there is a larger surface area of wine in the
bottom and the bouquet of the wine can get trapped by the narrowing of the
glass. (Which reminds me how often I have to stop restaurant servers from
filling my glass of wine--even in places where there is very nice
stemware, many servers just don't know how to pour.)
Riedel produces (web
site [http://www.riedelcrystal.co.at] :
http://www.riedelcrystal.co.at) an expensive line of glasses, none of
which I own. Supposedly each glass (and there are different shapes for
different types of wines) is designed to maximize taste and aroma by
delivering the wine to the right part of the mouth, as well as being
shaped properly to catch and concentrate the scents of the wine. How you
may ask, can this be?
In terms of acidity, tannins, fruit flavors, aromatic components, and the
like, different types of wine have different palate profiles. These are
sensed by different parts of the tongue, nose and throat. Supposedly, wine
glasses can be designed to channel the wine as you sip it to the parts of
the mouth where you will get the optimal tasting experience. It is said
that there is a different place in the mouth for each wine, hence the
different shapes for the glasses, based on centuries-old concepts. But
whether you really need five sets of wine glasses (or for some even one
set of really expensive glasses) is left to your own sensibilities. A
non-statistical, admittedly unscientific sample size of public postings
tells me that some swear that these Riedel glasses make a large
difference, especially after side-by-side tastings between Riedel and
non-Riedel glasses, and others don't. Decide for yourself!
The International Standards Organization (ISO) in the United Kingdom sets
forth a design for a wine glass which can be inexpensive but very useful.
They are smaller and less exciting than the fancy, expensive glasses, but
are a lot cheaper to replace when smashed by host, guest or dishwasher.
Many people find them to be perfectly adequate, however do admit to liking
glasses with somewhat larger bowls. Personally, I like the latter, but
haven't found it necessary to get really expensive stemware.
Wine drinking is an adventure. Think about it. If you had an especially
good wine experience, was it just the wine? Or was it also the events
surrounding the drinking of the wine? Two _identical_ wines could seem
different merely by the activities that surround its consumption. A
romantic dinner? While the glass you use may or may not have an impact, I
suggest that other peripheral items may be much more significant.
Washing glasses somehow has gotten controversial. Seems some people object
to the dishwasher (and I've found some truth to this). Probably one should
merely watch out (whether washing by hand or machine) about using too much
soap or detergent which might leave a residue that will affect the wine.
Storing glasses is also something to think about. I tend to break them
(no, not drunk, just clumsy the next day). The cost of expensive wine
glasses is going to add up if you are ungraceful, so there may be the
temptation to store them in the cardboard box that they probably came in.
If you do this, wash the glasses before use. If the cardboard has gotten
at all damp, it may get moldy and contribute off flavors to the glass and
to the wine.
Storing Wine After It's Opened
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wine deteriorates in the presence of oxygen. The most practical thing to
do is finish the wine. When this isn't sensible, the idea of buying
smaller bottles (or taking home unfinished bottles when drunk in a
restaurant--you don't _have_ to leave them--though in California, make
sure you take it home in the trunk of your car), when available, can be a
better solution. You can cook with leftover wine, or even turn it to
vinegar (why buy when you can have homemade?). Also note that some young,
tannic wines might actually taste better the next day.
But, there is always the time when you want to try to preserve the quality
of the wine for as long as you can. To do this, you want to prevent as
much oxygen as you can from getting to it.
One of the better ways is to fill the bottle with an inert gas. There are
several different systems which do this, but they tend to be relatively to
extremely expensive. Nevertheless, for the serious aficionado, this is
probably the best solution.
Another product, the Vacu-vin (tm) is a small pump device that comes with
rubber stoppers and a small hole in the middle of the stopper. The idea is
that you can suck a fair amount of air from the bottle, thus reducing the
effect of oxygen. Some, but not all, people feel that it might add 2 or 3
days to the life of the bottle.
Other cheap and interesting ideas: Get a bunch of glass marbles. Clean
them, then put them in the bottle until the liquid is to the top, then
cork. Or, just transfer the wine to a smaller bottle. Or both.
Refrigerating the wine is an option, the theory being that a cooler wine
will oxidize less quickly (and for the ultimate in this thoery, see
freezing, below). There are those they try this trick and claim success.
In fact, now that I think of it, that's what I do.
_Freezing Wine?_
Initially I wrote "one economical wine lover suggests freezing as a means
of longer term storage. I haven't tried this and probably won't; freezing
should alter the character of the wine. Cooking with leftovers is probably
a better bet."
However, there have been a fair number of people who claim positive
results with the process--not only with freezing, but even by nuking the
wine (gently) in a microwave to thaw it (at least part of the way).
These people very happy with the results. A few have noted that in some
wines there are radically increased precipitates, mostly potassium
tartrate. (Increased precipitates result because the water freezes at
higher temperatures, therefore the concentration of alcohol and soluble
items--such as potassium tartrate--are higher in the liquid portion [the
water turning to ice]. Things which will precipitate out easily, will do
so, and probably won't dissolve back into the wine so quickly. Now, one
possible effect of this is that a wine will taste less acidic--which may
or may not be a desirable effect. Another effect is that the constituents
of the wine which make up taste and color can be affected. But then, if it
works for you . . . .
I think I'll still stand by my original statement that "generally
speaking, most stored wine, no matter what you do to it, won't be as good
as when you opened it." Nevertheless, those who like the idea of freezing
wine seem to think it works better than most of the other storage methods.
VI. BUYING WINE
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_What Wine to Buy?_
Nobody can tell you what wine to buy, since what _you_ like is the best
test. The more you taste different wines, the more you will come to know
what you like, etc.
But . . . If you are just starting out, here's some hints that we and
others seem to ignore completely a lot of the time: Don't buy too much of
a wine you haven't tasted (just because it got a good rating or is
something you liked in earlier vintages). Don't buy a bunch of wine that
you won't drink until after it goes bad. (I don't want to tell you how
much white wine I have aged to extinction from my earlier days in buying
wine.)
_Where to Buy Wine_
Depends on what you're drinking. Fortified wines to be carried and drunk
while wrapped in a brown bag can be gotten pretty cheaply at the local
market or liquor store. And, in _some_ of the United States, wine can only
be purchased in state run establishments (often closed on Sundays).
If you are drinking a wine that is meant to be drunk young, you can pretty
much buy your wine at the best price you can find. When it comes to wines
to cellar, more care should be exercised. You want to learn a bit about
your wine merchant. Since wines can be stored improperly or may have been
subjected to heat and other improper handling, you could find that after
keeping an expensive red wine for ten years, what you have to drink is
worthless. Furthermore, a respectable merchant will often be willing to
take back flawed bottles (see the definition of "flawed" elsewhere).
Wines can often be purchased at wineries (what an odd place to find wine).
The good news here is that you may get wines that are never available
anywhere else (you don't mass market 20 cases of wine). The sort of bad
news is that you might find that the wine you bought could have been found
less expensively elsewhere (though one hopes that the storage conditions
at the winery are better?).
Wineries will ship wine, depending on where they are and where you are.
Various laws come into play about the shipping of wine from one place to
another (though I heard that one wine merchant--I wasn't told who--merely
labels the box "guns" and has no trouble at all; there _are_ ways). Some
wineries sell virtually all of their wine by mail.
Other wine merchants (sometimes calling themselves wine "clubs") will ship
wine. Several people have positively mentioned the following (but I don'
have any independent knowledge and guarantee nothing!).
There are so many places selling wine on the World Wide Web, that there is
no point in trying to keep up with listing them in a FAQ. Best use one of
the dozen or so search engines for that task. Interestingly enough, since
there are so many laws about the shipment of wine within the United
States, or between countries, that it will be a fascinating sidelight to
see which falls first, Internet sales or those laws.
_What is Wine Worth?_
A correspondent sent me this quote: "I think that the best way to learn
about wine is to drink the cheapest wine you can find. If you can't find
any cheap wine you like, then spend a few more dollars. And then a few
more, and more, and more . . . . " Depending on what you can afford to pay
for wine, the unfortunate truth is that generally, better wine costs more,
however it isn't necessarily true that wine that costs more is better.
The real fact is that you shouldn't be swayed by the opinions of others.
If you like it, fine, if you don't, don't buy it. If it is inexpensive and
suits your taste, great! I once bought a couple of bottles of wine for a
couple of dollars each because the name of the winery was the same as the
street I lived on. It wasn't wonderful (so far as we remember) and we
stuck it away in a closet. Five years later the stuff was absolutely great.
For wholesale wine (and other liquor) prices, you might find a copy of
"Beverage Media", (from Beverage Media Ltd., 161 Avenue of the Americas,
New York, New York 10013) which calls itself "The largest compilation of
alcoholic beverage price brand information in America."
Some wines may be very good but their prices could be considered out of
line with similar quality wines. Why, then, do they cost so much? My guess
is snob appeal and/or the marketing skills of the winery. A number of
people have commented that they consider _*Opus One*_ to fall into this
category.
Recently, while dining, out I overheard another table (clearly owners of a
wine shop) being asked by the restaurant manager whether the establishment
should purchase some _*Opus One*_. They hemmed and hawed and politely
noted that it was a "high end" item and perhaps there were other wines
that would be just as good for lesser price. That sums up a lot of what I
have heard of this wine, a joint production between Robert Mondavi and the
late Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Bordeaux attempting to produce French
style wine with California grapes. The consensus of opinion in the Usenet
posts that I have followed relate that _*Opus One*_ is a generally well
made wine that is overpriced but will be reliable to people ordering in
restaurants who don't know much about better (or just as good) less
expensive wines. I've never tasted it, so try some, if you can (and want
to make up your own mind). And we've spent so much time talking about this
one wine because it is a very frequently asked question!
_My Significant Other Doesn't Like Red Wine_
First off, nobody is advocating that it is important to get people to
start drinking wine. If water is what a person wants, leave them alone! In
any event, a question that seems to keep coming up is "my wife doesn't
like red wine." So what? Why should she? That being said, it seems that
the natural progression when learning about and drinking wine is to move
from light fruity white wine to light fruity red wine, then to the more
hearty and more aged red wines.
As to _what_ wines, here's a generic sampling culled from Usenet, designed
for the novice red wine drinker (and already I have letters that the list
is completely wrong!):
Bardolino. Beaujolais. Bergerac. Cotes du Frontonnais. Dolcetto. Gamay.
Grenache Rose. Lighter Pinot Noirs. Rioja Gran Reserva. Rose. Valpolicella
VII. WINES
Grapes
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Before you talk about specific wines (like Pinot Noir or Merlot, as
opposed to specific producers), you really have to start with a discussion
of grapes. While there are lots of grapes in the world (travel up and down
the "Central Valley" of California and see all the "table" grapes), there
are a select few which are used for making the best wines. These are known
as "noble grapes.".
A note--I know that there are a _lot_ of grapes missing. As time permits,
they'll get added. Here are some:
_Red Wine_
_*Cabernet Sauvignon.*_ One of the components of French Bordeaux, it is
also the major (if not sometimes only) grape in the most popularly drunk
American red wines in what might be called, for lack of a better term, the
"snob appeal" class. (For in fact there is probably more American jug wine
that never sees the cabernet grape drunk each year in the United States
than all the cabernet sauvignon from all the wineries in the world put
together. Prestige and/or quality are not always equal to popularity.)
Cabernet Sauvignon contains a lot of tannins that lead to the long aged,
"better" red wines. Depending on where it is grown it may smell of cassis
and black currants or black cherry and red currants. Some people may
notice a cigar box smell. Bell peppers, asparagus, and rhubarb are common
tasting notes for cabernet produced from grapes that are not quite ripe. A
bit of this sort of character is considered, by some, to be pleasing (the
wine is called "herbaceous"), too much of this flavor is unappealing--and
the wine will be described as "vegetal". Out tasting at a "fancy" winery I
tasted a wine that smelled and tasted so overwhelmingly of asparagus
(which I don't like) that I couldn't drink anything else the entire day.
The winery people admitted that while some people loved that particular
wine, others had the same reaction as myself. I think I turned about as
green as the asparagus I imagined.
_*Barbera.*_ A major Italian variety with a "tarry" smell and medium body.
_*Cabernet Franc.*_ Also a component of Bordeaux, a little is often
blended with Cabernet Sauvignon to add bouquet. Some don't think much of
it when drunk all by itself.
_*Gamay.*_ Produces a fruity wine such as French Beaujolais. (The
California Gamay Beaujolais is not the same grape, but makes a wine that
comes close.)
_*Grenache.*_ Often used to make rose wine, it is a component of French
Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cotes du Rhone and most other appellations from the
south of France. There are also many tasty grenache-based wines from Spain
(where it is called garnacha) and from California.
_*Merlot.*_ One of the major components of most French Bordeaux, also with
less tannin that makes for a smoother characteristic in the wine. Alone
(or practically alone), it makes another of the more popular U.S. wines.
Though it is like Cabernet, it is usually "rounder". It is often blended
with Cabernet Sauvignon.
_*Nebbiolo.*_ Can be found in California, but is really a grape of the
Piedmont area of Northern Italy. Found in Barbaresco and Barolo wines,
which can be aged with great success.
_*Syrah.*_ "True Syrah" and Petite Sirah are not the same, the former a
relative of Durif from the Rhone in France (and a major variety in its own
right), the latter a variety grown relatively widely in California and
said to be genetically the same as the obscure French Durif variety. Both
produce more or less deeply-red-colored, tannic, long lived wines, the
latter being a bit more "peppery." You might also see Australian Shiraz,
which is the same grape variety as the "true" French syrah, but because of
differences in growing conditions between the two countries, much of it
ends up tasting more like the California petite sirah, perhaps with more
of a chocolate note.
_*Pinot Noir.*_ The only grape in the famous French Red Burgundy
appellations of the Cotes de Beaune, Cotes de Nuit and Cote d'or.. Some
U.S. winemakers will make Pinot Noir "in the French style." Or not.
Interestingly, they are lighter in color (but not flavor) than
Bordeaux/Cabernet.
_*Zinfandel.*_ Mostly from California, it has a great deal of fruit like
characteristics. Some young Zinfandels are also "spicy." Good red
Zinfandel is often a bargain in restaurants, being less expensive than
other wines, but still very drinkable. (Huge quantities of Zinfandel are
made into "White Zin," a sweet, uncomplicated (and usually inexpensive)
wine that is favored by people who do not drink much wine. A decent White
Zinfandel can make a nice "picnic wine." We especially like zin from "old
vines" (pictured).
_White Wine_
_*Chardonnay.*_ Produces French white Burgundy and perhaps the most
popular (once again "snob" class--see Cabernet Sauvignon, above) wines in
the U.S. "Give me a glass of white wine" will probably get you Chardonnay
at "better" restaurants. (In fact, a lot of jug wine--which is to say, a
vast amount of wine--in the United States is made from what are "lesser"
grape varieties like French colombard or sultana.)
_*Chenin Blanc.*_ The major grape planted in the French Loire valley. In
the U.S., often used to make a light, fruity wine.
_*Gewurztraminer.*_ Some confusion abounds this wine, partly because
non-German speaking persons may not order it in a restaurant because they
can't pronounce it and partly because of the way in which parts of the
word can be translated. I'm told the German word "wuerz" literally means
"spice", but "gewuerz" is better translated as "aromatic" or "fragrant."
Wine from this grape has a floral smell and the wine itself is often drunk
with spicy foods. Gewurztraminer also makes a good "late harvest" sweet
dessert wine. It is more common in Alsace, Italy, and the United States
than in Germany and many "experts" say Alsace makes the best.
_*Riesling.*_ Also, to me, producing a floral smelling sort of wine, it
also makes a sort of light, fresh type of wine. Makes a great "late
harvest" sweet dessert wine (for which it is especially known in Germany).
Another viewpoint, it isn't so much floral as "minerally" with accents of
fuel oil--not light and fresh, instead, lots of depth and complexity in
something like a good German Riesling Spatlese or Alsatian Grand Cru.
_*Sauvignon Blanc*_ (sometimes called _*Fume Blanc*_, at least in
California). In the U.S., makes a crisp, light wine (sometimes with a
"grassy" or "herbaceous" characteristic). It is a component (along with
Semillon ) of the French dessert wine, Sauternes and the white wines of
Bordeaux.
_*Semillon*_. As with many grapes, while grown elsewhere (such as
California), Semillon is one of the major varieties grown in Bordeaux.
Like Sauvignon Blanc is can often have a grassy (or herbaceous) note, but
also may have notes of ripe figs. It may be drunk "dry", or "sweet", and
as such, it is a component (along with Sauvignon Blanc ) of the French
dessert wine, Sauternes and the white wines of Bordeaux.
Because I am neither an expert or a global traveler, nor independently
wealthy, you may notice a lack of discussion about other grapes from
around the world. I'm always open for opinions, though! Anybody want to
tell me a lot of good things about, for example, Germany, Italy,
Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Spain (these are things people have
written to me about) and you name the list of other countries, wines, etc.
that I've missed!
--
Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.mindspring.net.MISMATCH!news.mindspring.net!firehose.mindspring.com!bradb
From: bradb@netcom.com (Brad)
Newsgroups: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine,rec.answers,alt.answers,news.answers
Subject: Wine (the beverage) FAQ, part6 of 10 [LONG]
Followup-To: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine
Date: 30 Sep 2000 17:19:28 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 494
Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.EDU
Message-ID: <8r57b0$7sc$1@slb3.atl.mindspring.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: c7.b7.09.74
Summary: A 10 part FAQ on the beverage wine with various asides
Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.food.drink:47104 alt.food.wine:64082 rec.answers:61453 alt.answers:51503 news.answers:192800
Archive-name: drink/wine-faq/part6
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Copyright: (c) 1995-2000 Bradford S. Brown (Notices/Disclaimers in pt. 10)
Last-modified: 2000/06/01
U.S. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.sbwines.com/usenet_winefaq [newest]
U.K. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.bath.ac.uk/~su3ws/wine-faq/wine-faq.html
What's In a Name?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
A "variety" is just a grape, and a "varietal" is a wine made up of 100% of
a particular variety of grape. However, United States law allows that a
wine may be labeled in the manner of a varietal if it contains 75% of that
variety of grape. So, the next time your bottle says Cabernet Sauvignon,
check the label. Perhaps your "Cab" also contains something like Merlot,
Cabernet Franc or some other grape. (This isn't a bad idea, since you can
give a Cabernet a "smoother" quality by blending in "smoother" grapes.)
French wines follow labeling rules which are a bit different. A red
Burgundy is made of 100% Pinot Noir, grown in the Burgundy area of France.
A French Bordeaux is made with different grapes (see "Meritage," below),
but again is grown in the Bordeaux area of France. So your rule for French
wines is that they are known by the geographical area of origin (also
known as "appellation"), not by grape. Another example is Chablis (which
happens to be an area in Burgundy), which is made of 100% Chardonnay.
Also, the vintner must follow certain standards and practices in the
production of the wine, set out by the Appellation d'Origine Controlee
(A.O.C.). The A.O.C. also sets out standards for the quality of wine which
range from Vins Delimites de Qualite Superieure (VDQS--the best quality)
to Vins de pays ("county wines") to Vins ordinaires (ordinary wine). The
A.O.C. system is used throughout Europe.
One note about the A.O.C. Like just about all laws, there are those who
must feel that they must be broken. There are the oft repeated rumors that
unethical producers will dilute their wine with grapes not in accord with
the law. It has been said that much of the impetus to give the southern
Rhone communes their own appellations was to put a stop to the practice of
illegally blending those wines into Burgundy.
The final word, as always, is that vigilance is required on the part of
the government and the consumer.
So a quick summary of these rules are that United States wines are
characterized by what goes into them while French wines are characterized
by where the grapes are grown.
Winemakers may also put a very specific area from which their grapes are
harvested on the label. For example, there are excellent U.S. Pinot Noirs
that come from the "Rochiolli vineyard" in Sonoma. A single producer thus
might have a line of 4 or 5 Pinot Noirs, perhaps all from Sonoma, but not
all from the same vineyard. Often (but _not_ always--to each their own),
"better" (or at least more expensive) wine comes form a "better" vineyard.
In the United States there are places called "Approved Viticultural Areas"
or AVA. If 75% of the wine is grown in that AVA the AVA may be placed on
the label.
Other terms may be placed on the bottle which the winemaker used to denote
a "better" wine (perhaps based on the style of production, aging, grapes,
etc.). One such term is "reserve." You may feel, however, that a
non-reserve wine (usually less expensive) tastes better to _you_ than what
the winemaker has labeled "reserve."
_Meritage_
French Bordeaux is made from a blend of grapes. It might contain, for
example, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. The
amounts differ (for example, in the Bordeaux appellations St. Emilion and
Pomerol, Merlot tends to be the dominant grape, while in the Medoc
(Paulliac, St. Esteph, Margaux, and St. Julien), Cabernet Sauvignon is
dominant. The important point, is that no matter what the grapes, it is a
"blend" of grapes, though it might be that something like Merlot or
Cabernet Sauvignon will be a very large percentage of the wine.
In the United States, a wine cannot be called by its varietal name unless
that grape is at least 75% of the wine. As a merchandising tool, a new
name has reached the marketplace. Producers in the United States creating
blend wines (usually with less than 75% of any particular grape) have
agreed to use the term Meritage to designate a high quality wine using
Bordeaux style blends of grape varieties.
While "Meritage" is a blend that is often used to denote an upscale wine,
blends (not labeled Meritage) as such can represent a very good value in
the purchase of wine. Look for, example, wines denoted "Table Wine"
instead of with any particular grape.
_The Fine Print, U.S. Style_
We've mentioned some definitions previously, but there are those who like
to get into the nitty gritty--especially the United States Treasury
Department which is the agency that runs the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobaco and
Firearms (now there's quite a mix!). Here are some more definitions more
or less specific to the U.S.:
A _*varietal wine*_ is named for the grape variety or varieties from which
it is produced. In order to be named after that one grape, the wine must
contain not less than 75% of that specific variety. If two or more grapes
are named, the total for each must be printed on the label and the total
must equal 100%. The rule follows for Vitis vinifera wines and
French-American hybrids only. On the other hand, Vitis labrusca can be
labeled as a varietal with only 51%. Of course you might want to know
about the State of Oregon which requires that varietals must be 100% of
the specific variety.
A _*propriety wine*_ is a uniquely named wine whose name is the property
of the producer. Examples include wines like _*Insignia*_ from Joseph
Phelps Winery or _*Le Cigare Volant*_ from Bonny Doon Vineyard.
A _*semi-generic wine*_, is a wine named for and made in the style of a
European geographic district. Wines like _*"California Chablis,"*_ or
_*"American Burgundy."*_ Since the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms
(BATF) has never defined what "in the style of" means, wineries can make
up anything they want.
A _*generic wine*_ might be something like _*"Red Table Wine,"*_ _*"White
Table Wine"*_ or the like.
The _*Appelation*_ of a wine says tells you where the grapes are from:
If the appellation is the nation or a state, 100% of the grapes which go
into the wine must come from the United States or the specific state. Now
a winery which gets grapes from a neighboring state (for example, a
California vintner getting Pinot Noir from Oregon), may label the wine
"Oregon." But, if the state is not a neighboring one (for example, a
California vintner getting Cabernet from Washington State), the only
permitted appellation is "American." That makes sense, doesn't it?
If the appellation is a _political_ designation within a state (say a
county such as Napa, Sonoma or Mendocino), not less than 75% of the grapes
in the wine must originate from within that political boundary, and it
must be tied into the varietal minimum. If the appellation is a
_geographic_ designation (for example, an American Viticultural
Appellation, such as the Santa Cruz Mountains, the Stag's Leap District,
Carneros or the North Fork of Long Island), then not less than 85% of the
grapes must originate from within the boundary, and it must be tied into
the varietal minimum.
The_* vintage date*_ is _not_ the year in which the grapes were grown.
Rather, it is the year in which the grapes were harvested. So, if you
harvest Gamay grapes from Monterey on January 2nd, the vintage is the
brand-new, two-day-old year. 95% of the grapes must be from this year.
For an _*alcohol content*_ of less than 14%, wine may be labeled "Table
Wine," or it may give a percentage of alcohol content that is accurate
within 1.5% either way. So a wine labeled "12.5% Alcohol by Volume" may
legally be anywhere from 11-14%. A wine labeled "13.5% Alcohol" may be as
low as 12% but not more than 14%. However, if the wine is 14.01% or
greater in alcohol, the precise number must appear on the label and it
must be accurate--no leeway. The tax rate on alcohol contents 14% and
above changes and the government wants the extra money!
Champagne
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Champagne is a "sparkling wine" that comes (of course) from the Champagne
area of France. Three grapes can be used to make Champagne: Chardonnay,
Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir. It is produced by a technique known as
Methode Champenoise.
In Methode Champenoise, there is more than one major fermentation. The
first fermentation takes two to three weeks. The wine is then placed in
very sturdy bottles (to withstand the internal pressure that will be part
of the process) along with sugar and yeast (Liqueur de Tirage). A
temporary cap (just like the type you find on a bottle of beer or a very
old bottle of soda) is placed on the bottle. The sugar and yeast cause a
new fermentation to occur. Since fermentation produces carbon dioxide (the
same gas that makes the bubbles in soda), which can't escape from bottle,
what you get is carbonated wine. This fermentation also creates new
sediment, which must be removed. This is done by placing the wines on
their sides on racks at about a 45 degree down facing angle. Then every
day the bottles are turned a bit (called "riddling" or "remuage"), and
eventually also tilted farther down. After about 6 or 8 weeks, the
sediment has now moved to the neck of the bottle, which the vintner then
freezes. The bottle is opened and the force of the pressurized wine pushes
the frozen sediment out of the bottle (this is called "disgorgement".
Since the bottle is now no longer full, wine and sugar (depending on what
sweetness desired) is added. The bottle is then given its permanent cork.
Some say Champagne does not mature in the bottle, so you needn't bother
cellaring it. Others argue that you may enjoy a little aging on some
vintage Champagnes. Mostly, I think they're drunk quick.
The French discourage (to put it mildly) the use of the word "Champagne"
for sparkling wines made (even in the same manner) elsewhere in the world.
Also know that not all sparkling wines are made using the Methode
Champenoise. For example, instead of carbonating the wine in the bottle
and hand turning the bottles every day, you _could_ put the wine into huge
stainless steel tanks for the second fermentation. This will get you much
cheaper carbonated--or sparkling--wine.
[For the Future: how to open a bottle of Champagne; styles of Champagne,
Naturel, Brut, semi-dry (demi-sec), etc.]
Port
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Port is a "fortified wine." Brandy is added to the wine to stop
fermentation before the yeasts eat all the grape sugar, thus yielding a
sweeter wine and higher alcohol content.
True Port comes from Portugal (the Duouro region, to be exact). But since
winemakers in other countries have taken to producing "Port," Duouro Port
makers have started to call _their_ Port, "Porto," or "Oporto" (from the
city in Duouro).
There are two main categories of Port: Vintage Port and Wood Port.
_Vintage Port_
Wineries will decide ("declared year") that the harvest in a some
particular year (or "vintage") is worthy of producing this port, which is
aged for two years in wood from grapes of that harvest year only. It will
also continue to mature once bottled. Not only are not all years declared
to be vintage years, but not all wineries may decide within a particular
year that _their_ wine is a vintage year, and even in a declared year
(which may occur two or three times in a decade) perhaps only 10% of the
grapes will go into vintage port (with the balance going to wood ports).
So in most years there just is no vintage Port at all!
Vintage Ports get much better with age. Generally don't drink them before
they've aged fifteen years. Some can keep getting better for a long time
after that--even one-hundred years. Like most good wine, a vintage port
shouldn't be left around undrunk once opened.
_*Single-Quinta Vintage Port.*_
Single-Quinta Vintage Port is true vintage Port--wine from one harvest
year bottled unblended after two years in cask. When a shipper "declares a
vintage," the vintage Port from that year usually comes from wines
produced by grapes from various vineyards (quintas). It is said that no
one vineyard has all the characteristics to make the best vintage Port--it
needs to be blended with other vineyards to be the most complete and
complex wine. However, sometimes a producer's single best vineyard will
yield grapes fine enough to warrant bottling on their own, while the rest
of the vineyards that would normally contribute to a vintage Port weren't
as successful. The producer may then choose to vinify this wine from that
single vineyard, or "quinta". This is called "single-quinta vintage Port"
and the quinta name will appear on the label. So, whereas a Port labelled
"Graham's 1991 Vintage Porto" is a vintage Port from a declared year,
"Graham's Malvedos 1988 Vintage Porto" is a single-quinta vintage Port
from the Quinta dos Malvedos, the best vineyard that Graham's owns.
The one exception to this nomenclature is the Quinta do Noval, which is
actually a producer, not a single quinta. (Noval's best vineyard is called
Nacional, and its single-quinta Port is the rarest, most expensive, and
reportedly best of all.)
_Wood Port_
There are three sub-categories of Wood Port, based on color: Ruby Port,
Tawny Port and White Port.
_*Ruby Port. *_A dark red, somewhat sweet "full-bodied" wine which has
probably been aged in wood for several years.
_*Tawny Port. *_Not such a deep color, it is a "smoother," less sweet wine
which may have been aged in wood for 20 years. The difference between
tawny Port and ruby Port is simply the amount of time that the wine spends
in the wood cask before it is blended and bottled. As the wine ages, the
ruby-red color of the young wine becomes paler and browner. Top tawny
Ports from the best producers are just as complex and fine (and expensive)
as vintage Port, though they will have a different character. (If you find
something labeled tawny Port which seems inexpensive--or shall we say,
"cheap?," you may have found something produced by blending "tawny" Port
with "white" Port. Needless to say, you'll tell the difference and Port
connoisseurs will tell you that they aren't worthy of the name "Port" at
all.)
_*White Port. *_A sweet white wine made from white grapes grown in the
Oporto region of Portugal. As with red Port, fermentation is stopped by
adding brandy to the partly fermented wine. Not really like the other
(red) Ports, which are usually drunk after a meal, this is usually drunk
before a meal.
Wood Ports will not get any better by cellaring, so you can drink them as
you buy.
_Decanting Port_
As you age your good Port it is going to "throw off" a good amount of
sediment which is going to end up in your glass if you don't decant. So,
get into the habit of decanting. Unless you like to eat sediment, of
course.
_For Further Information on Port_
I have no knowledge of, but repeat posted information that there is a a
quarterly newsletter called Re: Port. P.O. Box 981, Cherry Hill, New
Jersey 09003. Said to list availability and best retail prices for vintage
port in the U.S. Apparently a sample copy is available.
[For the Future: Expanded discussion of Port. I've got forty pages of
notes!]
Dessert Wines
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are number of different wines which come under this category. Often
very sweet, you don't really want to drink a lot of it at one time. For
this reason you'll see dessert wines sold in the smaller 375ml bottles (as
well as in larger bottles). At a recent picnic, the smaller bottle did
quite well for eight of us.
_Botrytis_
While the classification of "dessert" wines can include any number of
things, this is where we'll deal with those wines that are affected by
"the rot." Not just any rot, however, but the "noble rot,"Botrytis
cinerea, a mold which causes the vine disease called grey rot. Some years
(but not all), when conditions are exactly right, with warm, sunny
afternoons and damp, foggy mornings, the mold doesn't rot the fruit, but
affects it in a different way. About 90% of the water in the grape
disappears and the grapes shrivel up. Since relatively little of the sugar
is lost, you get extremely concentrated and sweet grape juice. These
grapes can be harvested and treated specially. Noble Botrytis adds a
honeyed, aromatic flavor characteristic of its own to the wine. In the
end, what you get is a sweet and, when lucky, an incredibly complex and
flavorful liquid that, as it ages, turns from pale yellow to dark gold,
maturing and concentrating the flavors.
The most famous of these wines is the French Sauternes, and the most
famous French Sauternes is Chateau d'Yquem. It may take an entire vine to
produce one glass of this precious liquid which is barrel aged for 3 1/2
years before bottling. But even then, it should not be drunk for at least
20 years! It merely gets better and better and could be drunk after 100
years. One can go on and on, gushing over this, but there is nothing quite
like the myriad of intense flavors that come from an aged bottle of this
rich, sweet, complicated wine.
Chateau d'Yquem is so good that it stands alone, classified "Grand Premier
Cru" (first great growth). Other Sauternes will be classified "premier
crus" (first growth) and "deuxiemes crus" (second growth). Sauternes are
often comprised of 80% Semillon and 20% Sauvigon Blanc.
Since what is normally lousy weather contributes to the attack of
Botrytis, harvesting grapes can continue past the normal end of season,
perhaps into December. Many wineries will produce a "late harvest" wine in
the manner of the French Sauternes. So while you will find Sauvignon Blanc
and Semillon grapes in Sauternes, you can also find, for example, late
harvest Riesling or Gewurztraminer. (I drank a late harvest Chardonnay
once. Not great, but interesting. And a good way to get rid of essentially
what was "rotten" grapes.) The U.S. wines I have seen do not age nearly as
long as Sauternes, but will undergo maturation in the bottle for some time.
Other truly great (you decide if they are "better" than Sauternes) sweet
dessert wines produced from late-harvest, Botrytis affected grapes include
(but certainly aren't necessarily limited to):
_*German Beerenauslese*_ (BA) and _*Trockenbeerenauslese *_(TBA) from the
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and Rheingau regions. They are made from nobly-rotted
Riesling grapes. TBA is made from the most highly raisined grapes only and
is outrageously sweet. Some say these are every bit as good as any
Sauternes (including d'Yquem), and they are a lot rarer, since noble rot
strikes Germany far less often than Sauternes.
_*Sweet wines of the Loire valley*_ in France such as Anjou moulleux,
sweet Vouvray, Quarts du Chaume, Rochefort, and Bonnezeaux. These are made
from Botrytis-affected chenin blanc grapes.
_*Wines of the Valpolicella district in Italy.*_ When fermenting raisined
grapes fully dry, the result is the very rich-tasting, alcoholic, and
long-lasting dry wine, Amarone. If they leave some residual sugar, the
wine is called Recioto di Valpolicella.
As we will see, you don't necessarily need Botrytis to create a
concentrated wine. This can also be done by freezing the grapes or by
letting them dry in the sun to some extent. Such wines won't have the
Botrytis flavor which itself is a wonderful component of Botrytis affected
wines--so long as you don't take it to an extreme, for wines overly
affected by Botrytis can taste like shoe polish in early stages. It could
take ten or twenty years to get rid of this problem.
_Eiswein a.k.a. Icewine _
Another popular category of dessert wine is Eiswein (a.k.a. Icewine,
although strictly speaking that is, I'm told, a trademark of the Vintners'
Quality Association, Ontario, Canada). Eiswein is produced by leaving the
grapes on the vine until start to become raisins and until they freeze
(technically known as "cryoextraction"). Temperatures of -7C (20F) or
below are required. The wine is then pressed, and the shards of (water)
ice are removed. The combination of extremely overripe grapes with the
concentration resulting from removing the excess water produces an
extremely sweet, intense, luscious wine.
Eiswein was originally developed in Germany in the 18th century, and is
now produced in several areas along the northern and southern fringes of
the world's wine-producing areas, including northern Germany, the northern
United States, and New Zealand. However, the biggest production now comes
from Ontario, Canada, where Eiswein has become a dominant (and to some,
overpriced) part of the wine industry.
In Germany and elsewhere, most Eiswein is made from Reisling, and a few
other varieties. In Ontario, most is made from Vidal, a thick-skinned
hybrid grape well-suited to the purpose. The result is a thick, fruity
wine, with flavors ranging from apricot to fruit salad and tropical
fruits. Ontario Eiswein is typically produced with juice at a level of 45
brix (as compared to 22 brix for a table wine). Often a "second pressing"
of icewine grapes, with somewhat lower brix levels, is used to make a
"Select Late Harvest" wine. The flavors of these "baby icewines" are
similar to icewine, but with lower intensity and much lower prices.
Some attempts have been made, in areas not "blessed" with a cold winter,
to produce Eiswein artificially, by putting grapes in a freezer. The
results are typically described as "good but not great." One reason is
that the grapes are usually not left to overripen as much as they are when
the "natural" process is used. On the other hand, it is usually a lot
cheaper. A particular example of this (so far as the technique, at least)
would be "Vin de Glacier" from Bonny Doon Winery in California; literally
"Refrigerator Wine" (from a winemaker with a sense of humor).
While an "ice wine" produces concentrated flavors, it does not, of course,
have any of the flavors due to Botrytis, so it certainly is a different
type of product.
_Other Sweet Wines _
There are other ways to get sweet wines:
_*Add sugar to dry wine.*_ This is the method used to produce the
"Sauterne" and "Muscatel" that skid row winos drink. No serious, quality
sweet wine is made this way.
_*Stop the fermentation process *_before the yeasts have consumed all the
grape sugars and produced a dry wine. This can be done in at least two
ways:
+ Add a big dose of sulfites to anesthesize/kill the yeasts, or
centrifuge and sterile filter the wine to remove the yeasts. This gives
better results than adding sugar to dry wine, but it doesn't give you the
same quality as starting with "Botrytisized" or dried grapes.
+ Add brandy to the fermenting grape must. When the alcohol level gets
to 18% or more, the yeasts die and you're left with a sweet wine. This is
how the fortified sweet wines such as Port, sweet Sherry, Malaga, Madeira,
Marsala, and the "vins doux naturels" (naturally sweet wines) of the south
of France are made. These are all potentially top-quality wines of great
interest and complexity, which in addition to being very sweet have a
fiery quality to them due to the added brandy. _
VIII. WINES AROUND THE WORLD
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is a hopeless cause for a Wine FAQ, since you can't win in what you
include and don't include. I've gotten a lot of correspondence about the
"bias" of the FAQ towards California. Any such partiality is unintentional
and is a result of the fact that I know more about California and can use
references to California for my examples.
And France! Since there are hundreds (thousands?) of books about French
wine, it is absurd to try to recreate that information in this FAQ.
On the other hand, there are other areas of the world that have thriving
wine industries. Some have lots of books written about them, and perhaps
some don't. So I'm going to use this space to refer to wine growing areas
that (to my limited, inexpert knowledge) have had less attention. All this
material has been sent to me from various correspondents and it is
important for me to note that I have not verified this material and can't
even say that the information has been sent to me from wine growers or
promoters who might wish to use this FAQ as a means of advertising. I've
tried to eliminate any of that, but who knows!
For those areas which are missing, I'm open to anyone who wants to send me
more. Thanks to those who already have.
_ARGENTINA _
Although Argentina is the fifth worldwide wine producer, only a little
amount of it is considered high quality. In contrast with Chile, wine
producers have historically gone for volume over quality, though from the
1970's one this has begun to change. Some red wines have now been noted
for their quality.
Wine is grown in Argentina all along the Andes Mountains, which acts as a
border between Chile and Argentina. Production is concentrated in the
warmer northerly provinces of Mendoza, San Juan, La Rioja, Salta and the
cooler southerly provinces of Rio Negro and Neuquen.
Many varieties ("cepages") are grown. Predominant red grapes include
Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Italian varieties, including
Barbera, introduced by Italian monks in the 1700's. Common white grapes
include Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, as well as the local variety of
"Torrontes" which is similar to Gewurztraminer.
--
Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.mindspring.net.MISMATCH!news.mindspring.net!firehose.mindspring.com!bradb
From: bradb@netcom.com (Brad)
Newsgroups: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine,rec.answers,alt.answers,news.answers
Subject: Wine (the beverage) FAQ, part7 of 10 [LONG]
Followup-To: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine
Date: 30 Sep 2000 17:19:47 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 475
Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.EDU
Message-ID: <8r57bj$t2$1@slb7.atl.mindspring.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: c7.b7.09.74
Summary: A 10 part FAQ on the beverage wine with various asides
Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.food.drink:47105 alt.food.wine:64083 rec.answers:61454 alt.answers:51504 news.answers:192801
Archive-name: drink/wine-faq/part7
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Copyright: (c) 1995-2000 Bradford S. Brown (Notices/Disclaimers in pt. 10)
Last-modified: 2000/06/01
U.S. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.sbwines.com/usenet_winefaq [newest]
U.K. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.bath.ac.uk/~su3ws/wine-faq/wine-faq.html
IX. FOOD AND WINE
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
This subject is enormous. Perhaps as time goes by I'll develop a listing,
but we'll start with some basics:
*"Drink red wines with meat, white wines with fish."*
_Wrong!_
Drink whatever wine you like that _you_ think goes with whatever you are
eating. There aren't any rules. The fact that there are some combinations
that "many" people think best complement food and wine is a good guide,
but if _you_ don't like it, or you like something else, do it! And red
wine goes very well with a lot of fish, thank you.
From a chemical standpoint, what you do when drinking wine can have an
enormous impact on what you drink (or whether you should drink at all).
Try an experiment. Dissolve 1/8th teaspoon salt in a gallon of water. Do
the same with sugar and another gallon of water. Take a sip of one then
taste a wine. Try it with the other. You may be very surprised. Since your
taste buds are extremely sensitive, eating food radically changes the way
a wine can taste. This is why tasting wine without eating the food you
intend to eat it with may steer you wrong when it comes to what you really
like.
_FOOD COMBINATIONS PEOPLE HAVE LIKED _
I don't necessarily agree with or have tried the food and wine
combinations that are related in this section. In fact, it is such an
overwhelming area, I don't even know if it is a good idea to start. But
since a FAQ should answer Frequently Asked Questions, here are some of the
ones that have come up a lot.
Wine and Chocolate_
Some will say this isn't possible. I think they're wrong. You'll find
chocolate notes in Cabernet and this can make it a decent match. Also try
Merlot or Zinfandel. A correspondent tells me that there is a chocolatier
near the Musee D'Orsay in Paris that has a whole sheet of suggestions for
wine with chocolate. Some of the best ideas are, he thinks: Vin Jaune, an
"incredible, almost sherried wine" from the Jura; Chateau Chalon; fine
solera Malaga; or an assertive young white port.
_Wine and Duck_
Peking Duck (with sweet sauce): White Hermitage, Pinot Gris, Sancerre or
Pouilly Fume
Plain Roast Duck: Bordeaux, Cabernet, Australian Chardonnay, California
Pinot Noir, Madiran, Cotes de Buzet Misc.: Spanish Rioja, preferably and
Reserva or Gran Reserva
X. LEARNING ABOUT WINE
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Starting Out
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
In college what we drank was jug wine, Sangria, sloe gin fizzes, and the
occasional 100% grain alcohol that the pre-med guy would get from the lab.
Taste wasn't exactly the idea. For many years, we didn't exactly drink
much in the way of any wine at all. Then we were introduced to "good"
wine. This wasn't something that you just drank, it was another facet of
the meal, food to be enjoyed just like the entree or dessert.
About this time a local "fancy" market started doing "winemaker dinners."
This being California, there was no lack of some of the best people in the
state showing up. The market was trying to get business, so it was
inexpensive and the 5-course meals were great. And so was a lot of the
wine. While it was interesting to listen to the stories the winemakers,
cellarmasters and producers would tell (and try to decipher some of the
questions that the knowledgeable folk asked), the most important part was
that this was a way to be introduced to a lot of different wines, alone,
and with food.
Dri, who has the memory between us, could remember what was good, or what
she or I liked, and still can to this day. I'm a lot slower and my test (I
thought I'd invented it, but then saw it in a magazine--later) was the
"GDE" test. Did it "go down easy?" Matching wines was Dri's job and I knew
I liked what I drank. I also started to know what I didn't like. Dri and I
don't always agree. Neither will you.
We bought a few books and started to visit wineries, mostly in California,
some in Washington and Oregon. We went on the tours, some of which were
big and crowded. As we gathered up our nerve about us, we found that we
could make appointments at little wineries which would show just the two
of us around (often it would be the owner/winemaker doing the tour), talk
to us for hours about their operation and about wine, and let us taste
some of the "good stuff." (Word of mouth is always good advertising.) It
also turned out that some "big" wineries will do the same, just for the
asking. After a while one tour looks like another, but we just like being
in the usually cool winery and drinking in the scents of grape and wine
and wood that jump out at you--and learning about the winemaker/owners.
Even when there is no tour, many small wineries will, on appointment, let
you taste. (Please, don't be pushy with them. They're doing you a favor,
too. They have a business to run and lives to live. We always ask if they
have time and when is best for them!)
We didn't try to hit every place in Napa, we slowly picked a few places
that we thought had good wine, and went and spent time. And bought some to
keep.
So now we drink more wine and we're still learning. We found, as most will
tell you, that the best way to learn about wine is to drink it. So true.
Lectures, books, magazines, this guide, other people, etc., will help you
and maybe get you started along the right track. But what they have to say
are just clues to the easily solved puzzle of what _you_ will like.
Two interesting learning tools: restaurants that serve fine wines by the
glass or have multi-course fixed price meals serving different wines for
each course and wine tastings (often of verticals that will let you see
just how a wine ages and when it is young, ready, or too old all at one
sitting). Many restaurants have wine tastings as do wine clubs and
associations.
You can also do your own wine tastings (everybody brings a bottle of
something, perhaps all reds, or all one varietal, etc.). Perhaps you host
and have the guests chip in on the costs. This way you avoid duplication
of bottles.
Read Kevin Zraly's "Windows on the World Wine Course", a very easy to read
book with lots of graphics.
Take a wine appreciation class. These can usually be found through
university extension, junior/community colleges or even large wine shops.
These will introduce you to terminology, basic wine types, how to evaluate
wines, etc.
Find a tasting group, or a good wine shop that puts on tastings,
preferably both. It is prohibitively expensive to taste a lot of wines if
you have to buy a full bottle for each wine. Typically, a good wine shop
should be able to point you to a few good tasting groups. There's used to
be a "Les Amis Du Vin" chapter in most major cities, but I'm told the
national organization has disappeared. A new organization called "Wine
Lovers International" is trying to incorporate as many of the old Les Amis
chapters as it can. Get copies of wine tasting newsletters, and try
several wines recommended by each of them to see which ones most closely
match your palate, then subscribe to the most appropriate ones. There's a
listing of these resources elsewhere in this document.
If all else fails, get some friends together (who at least enjoy
wines--and maybe even if they don't) for wine tastings. It's also not a
bad idea to make friends with people who have cellars full of wine (!).
An important thing to do for any person who wants to start drinking better
wine, is to find one or two wine merchants that you like, and to become
recognized as a loyal customer, even if you don't initially spend a great
deal. See which shops have tastings open to their customers. Tell the
proprietor about your interests, taste, and budget. Many wine shop owners
are enthusiasts who love to help (and talk) about wine. Try the offered
wines then decide whether the wine is as the proprietor described it? Is
it about what you asked for? If so, go back for more. A good merchant will
repay your loyalty (and you'll repay theirs, and so on . . . )
X. LEARNING ABOUT WINE
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cyberbia
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_
The extraordinary fast growth of the Internet and proliferation of
multimedia personal computers makes it close to impossible to keep up with
the changes available in electronic media. Here we'll offer some tips and
perhaps a few definitions for people new to the electronic arena. Have a
glass of wine while sifting through this one!
_THE "INTERNET"
_The "Internet" isn't exactly a thing. "Newbies" (people new to the
Internet, generally considered to be unknowing of the conventions which
have grown up to try to "civilize" its nature), often conceptualize the
Internet like some giant America On Line or Prodigy or Microsoft Network.
It isn't. The Internet is a system where a lot of people got together and
agreed on rules by which lots of computers networks (and sometimes merely
individual computers) could transfer information amongst themselves. When
a computer or computer network "links" into the Internet, information is
passed around using those rules. With a few semi-exceptions not worth
explaining in a Wine FAQ, the Internet is really just one vast e-mail
system where information ("data") can and may pass between and among any
machine connected to the network.
How you get to and/or view this electronic mail which is passed around on
the Internet (sometimes called the "Network of networks") may take a
number of different forms: for example, what we call "e-mail," World Wide
Web pages, telnet, or Usenet. Since an ever increasing number of people
are using a single tool, such as as a Web Browser to do all these things,
there is a tendency to say that all these things _*are*_ the Internet.
This isn't the place to argue the semantics of the 'net, but I mention
these things to avoid the inevitable quibble that many of the things that
I will refer to as part of the Internet are available in other ways or
aren't _*technically*_ the "Internet." Fill your glass and don't worry
about it.
_Usenet_
A "bulletin board" system which uses the Internet to make available the
public discussion of topics of interest. Where private e-mail goes (more
or less) from one person to another, Usenet messages go from one person to
everybody on the Internet who want to see them. There are about 15,000
"legitimate" (whatever that means) topics on Usenet as of this writing.
Not all internet service providers (the method by which most individuals
connect to Internet) give you access to every usenet topic. If the wine
groups are not available to you, ask your site administrator to add them.
There are currently two general Usenet groups that deal with wine:
rec.food.drink [rec.food.drink] and alt.food.wine [alt.food.wine] .
Depending on how you are reading this, your Internet connection, and your
system, clicking on one of those names may take you directly to the group.
For other more regionalized news groups, check out Usenet in Appendix A,
The Wine Bookmark Page.
Because rec.food.drink is more widely propagated (that means more sites
make it available), time was when it carried most of the wine-related
discussions. With the growth of the Internet it seems as if alt.food.wine
has gained greater acceptance as the group of choice. Someone with time to
spare might take the effort to establish a rec.food.wine. ("Rec" groups
tend to be much more widely accepted than "alt" groups). If you think you
would like to take these steps, more information is available on the
process on Usenet in the news.answers [news.answers] group. (Many people
post wine-related information to alt.bacchus. I have refrained from doing
so as it is my understanding that the charter for that group is for other
purposes.)
Where "web pages" provide an excellent place for static information from
single individuals or companies, Usenet is the place to get quick answers
from the world. In fact, the FAQ is mostly an outgrowth of Usenet. After a
group has seen (and maybe answered) a question for the 1000th time, it is
a lot easier to tell newcomers to read the FAQ (for "Frequently Asked
Questions") _before_ posing the question for the 1001th time. Usenet FAQs
are usually prepared and maintained by volunteers who feel the urge to do
so.
_Listservs_
Where Usenet is totally public and e-mail is totally (sort of) private, a
listserv falls somewhere in between. A listserv is like a private mailing
list. A person sends mail to the listserv (a computer which is set up to
deal with that mail). The listserv turns the mail around and sends it to
every member of the list. When dealing with listservs, it is important to
know that the mail address of the listserv for purposes of _*joining*_ the
list as a member is invariably different than the address of the list for
purposes of being part of the discussion. Usually you can get information
on how to join a listserv group by sending a message to the joining
listserv address with the word "help" in the subject line.
For information on wine-related listservs, see the discussion on Internet
Resources.
_Gopher and the World Wide Web_
My how the 'net has grown. When I started this document, the Internet
seemed a smaller world of private individuals using educational, corporate
and military computers to connect to the world in a community minded way
(I'm ignoring the true reasons that gave birth to the Internet, that's
another book or twenty)
Besides Usenet as a source of information, people would place
informational pieces on their own computer systems which were also open to
the Internet. The trick wasn't access but figuring out that they existed
at all. While there were other systems that came before, one of the first
really useful wide-spread methods of finding and retrieving material was
by "gopher." Gopher software lets you visit a computer and view a listing
(by text menu) of the documents which are being made publicly available.
If you make a menu choice, the document is displayed for you. Still you
had to guess what computer system had something you wanted. What if you
got a computer to look at all the other computers and see what's there,
keeping a list? Then you would have Veronica. The good news was that you
could send a key word request using Veronica and get back a listing of
files that might be useful. The bad news as that there were only five or
eight or so computers in the world that would let you ask. Getting your
request in got to be almost impossible.
Just as things were getting pretty bleak, along came the World Wide Web.
Still just a variation on the e-mail theme (you are really still sending a
message to another computer which asks it to do something and sends back
the information), the key here was that the software incorporated two
major elements: graphics and hyper-text links. Now you could have
something pretty to read and could skip around a document or from document
to document around the world in an instant. Big Business got interested.
Web Browsers became more and more sophisticated. Search engines (much like
the Veronica idea, but enormously faster and ridiculously vast) came on
line. While there are predictions that the system will again choke up, it
hasn't happened yet.
And just think, all this happened in about 18 months.
Now, when surfing the web, I'm not sure whether what I read is truly
informational or a blatant act of fiction promulgated overtly or covertly
by commercial interests. For that matter, why believe anything *I* say?
And even if not fictional, am I getting the *whole* story when the site I
visit limits their "information" only to advertisers/supporters of the
site? There seems no way to stop the rush to commercialization of the
World Wide Web, but I can complain about it, can't I? More sites than not
are commercial, others at least appear to be private. _Once again_,
_*caveat emptor,*_ "Let the buyer beware."
There is no way a FAQ came keep up with the proliferation of web sites
that deal with wine. All we can do is point you to some useful Internet
Resources, just below.
_Internet Resources_
Internet Resources break down into two major divisions: search engines
that sample the entire web and index it and sites that create lists (often
from submissions). The beauty of the first is that you might find
everything (if you phrase you question narrowly enough), the nice thing
about the latter is that they may do the sifting for you in advance and
you may get information that is not directly from a web site (listservs,
for example).
*Dean Tudor's Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net
[http://www.ryerson.ca/~journal/wine.html] . *_One of the best places to
start looking for wine-related information without being inundated with
every site on the web is Dean Tudor's list. It is posted monthly to Usenet
groups dealing with alcholic beverages, as well as being available at
http://www.ryerson.ca/~journal/wine.html. The list includes usenet groups,
electronic mailing lists (listservs), gophers, FTP sites, WWW sites, IRC
("International Relay Chat") channels, Bulletin Board networks and
systems, Commerical On-Line system forums and miscellaneous other
information. With Mssr. Tudor's gracious permission, this FAQ provides a
_Wine Bookmark Page _which is a sub-set of his list that is, more or less,
limited to wine sites. You will, however, obtain the most current
information by going directly to the original list.
You can try the ubiquitous _yahoo.com
[http://search.yahoo.com/bin/search?p=wine] _for more in the style of
compiled lists.
Or go the keyword route using a search engine. A good listing of engines
can be found at the _All-In-One_ Page at http://www.albany.net/allinone/.
The _All-In-One whichh lists just about all the web search engines that exist
is located at http://www.albany.net/allinone/all1www.html#WWW.
MISCELLANEOUS ELECTRONIC STUFF
I haven't seen either of these products, but they're out there!
_*Microsoft Wine Guide CD-ROM*_ by Oz Clarke, whom many say a lot of good
things about.. Reviewd by John Dvorak on C|NET Central as a "buy it."
_*Wines of the World CD-ROM*_ on wine browsing, making wine, wine
appreciation. On-line videos of wine regions, wine making processes, etc.
Windows and Macintosh.
_MAGAZINES AND NEWSLETTERS_
_*Best Bottles Wineletter*_. Box 21011 Stratford, Ontario Canada N5A 7V4.
Written and produced by William Munnelly, who purchases and tastes all the
wines reviewed. About 30 to 40 pages double-sided. The focus of the
publication is wines around or under $10--the idea being you don't have to
pay a fortune for a good bottle of wine. Published every other month, by
subscription only. Annual subscription fee is Canadian $40 (including GST).
_*The California Grapevine*_. 6 issues/yr. Approximately 20 pages per
issue, U.S. $30/year. P.O. Box 22152, San Diego, CA 92192, (619) 457-4818.
Focus on California wines, particularly Cabernet and Chardonnay. Some
coverage of classified Bordeaux. Book reviews by Bob Foster. Articles by
Dan Berger. Wines are evaluated by a panel of 10 to 12 on a modified Davis
Scale (20 point scale). Due to the large panel size, the wines that are
recommended tend to have wide appeal. [Note: Dan Berger is the wine writer
for the Los Angeles Times. This household tends to agree with his palate
and writings a great deal of the time!]
_*Connoisseur's Guide to California Wine*_. Monthly, no advertising.
Approximately 16 pages per issue, $42/yr. P.O. Box V, Alameda, CA 94501,
(510) 865-3150. Focus is strictly on California and U.S. wines. Each issue
reviews two to three classes of wine, with 20-40 wines per class. Wines
are evaluated by a panel of two on a 5-point scale (0-3 Puffs + Pour it
down the drain). Reviewers are said to have "California palates", which
means they like big, intense, chewy wines. [Opposing comments welcome!]
_*Decanter*_. Glossy British wine trade publication recommended by some.
U.S. $75 to $80 per year. Available at some large bookstores and magazine
racks in the U.S.
_*The Fine Wine Review*_. Approximately 16 pages per issue. U.S. $28.93
per year. 2449 Jackson St., San Francisco, CA 94115-1324, (415) 922-2755.
International in scope, each issue tends to focus on one wine type, for
instance, Northern Rhones. An individual reviewer, Claude Kolm, evaluates
on a 100 point scale ("objective, no context scale"), and also A/B/C/D/F
("how good the wine is compared to other wines of the same type"). Some
feel Mr. Kolm is more reliable than some of the other wine critics.
_*La Revue du Vin de France*_. 9 issues per year. 70p+8p per issue, 430FF
per year. 18-20 rue Guynemer, 92441 Issy les Moulineaux Cedex, France;
telephone: 33 1 40 95 86 00; fax: 33 1 40 95 18 81. Mainly French wines.
Two special issues per year, one devoted to the new vintage (usually in
June), and the last of the year called "les 500" which featuring the 500
best wines tasted during the year. Each issue contains 8 pages of tasting
notes called "le cahier de degustation." Also articles about a special
regions, a chateaus. Wines are either given a note (out of 10) or
evaluated using a 5 stars notation for hard to judge wine.
_*New York Wine Cellar*_. Tanzer Business Communications, Inc. P.O. Box
392, Prince Station, New York, New York 10012. Interviews, ratings.
Bi-monthly US $48; foreign air mail US $60.
_*The Quarterly Review of Wines*_. 4 issues per year. Approximately 70
pages per issue. U.S. $13.95 per year. P.O. Box 591, Winchester, MA
01890-9988. Glossy magazine. Mostly articles, few reviews. Doesn't give
ratings.
_*Underground Wine Journal*_. Wine Journal Enterprises, 1654 Amberwood
Drive, Suite A., South Pasadena, California 91030. (818) 441-6617. U.S.
$48/year. International in scope, with good coverage of German and French
wines, vertical and horizontal tastings of individual wine producers.
Wines are evaluated by two or three reviewers on a modified Davis scale
(20 point scale). Some say "very reliable reviews."
_*The Vine*_. British newsletter by Clive Coats.
_*The Wine Advocate*_. From Robert Parker, Jr., an "independent consumer's
guide to fine wines" published 6 times a year. The 1993 Parker's Wine
Buyer's Guide says that The Wine Advocate costs $35.00 for delivery in the
continental United States, $45.00 in Canada and $65.00 by air-mail
delivery anywhere in the world (I'm assuming all prices in $US). For
subscriptions or a sample copy write to The Wine Advocate, P.O. Box 311,
Monkton, MD 21120, or fax to 410-357-4504. Mr. Parker is said not to be
afraid to take a stand on a controversial wine, but some don't agree with
his conclusions (why should they, to each their own!).
_*Wine Enthusiast Magazine*_. 6 issues per year. Approximately 52 pages
per issue. U.S. $17.70 per year. 800-356-8466 to subscribe. Published by
Wine Enthusiast Companies which consists mainly of a wine gadgets store
and the magazine. Mostly articles and a few reviews. Web
site
[http://www.2way.com/food/wine] at http://www.2way.com/food/wine.
_*The Wine News*_. 6 issues per year, approximately 40 pages per issue.
U.S $18 per year. 353 Alcazar Avenue, Suite 101-B Coral Gables, Florida
33134. Includes review magazine "Inside Wine" Said to be similar to "The
Wine Spectator" with large format and the same coverage.
_*The Wine Spectator*_. A large, glossy format with lots of pictures.
While considered by some "serious" (too serious?) types to be a lot of
fluff ("the National Enquirer of wine"), it can be fun to read and is
every bit as informative as a handbook at least to someone with little
experience, and to the experienced as well. Lots of wine buying guides,
reports from vertical tastings, and even restaurant recipes. Some have
speculated about the cause and effect of advertising on ratings.
1994--Cover price: Canada $3.95; US $2.95; UK Pounds 2.50. Subscription
Price US $40/year, $75/2 years. Call 1-800-752-7799 or send to P.O. Box
50463, Boulder, CO. 80321-0463. Web
site [http://www.winespectator.com]
at http://www.winespectator.com.
_*Wine Tidings*_. 8 issues per year. Approximately 30 pages per issue.
U.S. $35 per year. 5165 Sherbrooke St West, Montreal QC H4A 9Z9. Mostly
articles. Some reviewers felt that it was a bit expensive for what you get.
--
Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.mindspring.net.MISMATCH!news.mindspring.net!firehose.mindspring.com!bradb
From: bradb@netcom.com (Brad)
Newsgroups: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine,rec.answers,alt.answers,news.answers
Subject: Wine (the beverage) FAQ, part8 of 10 [LONG]
Followup-To: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine
Date: 30 Sep 2000 17:19:08 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 416
Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.EDU
Message-ID: <8r57ac$nad$1@slb6.atl.mindspring.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: c7.b7.09.74
Summary: A 10 part FAQ on the beverage wine with various asides
Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.food.drink:47107 alt.food.wine:64085 rec.answers:61456 alt.answers:51506 news.answers:192803
Archive-name: drink/wine-faq/part8
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Copyright: (c) 1995-2000 Bradford S. Brown (Notices/Disclaimers in pt. 10)
Last-modified: 2000/06/01
U.S. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.sbwines.com/usenet_winefaq [newest]
U.K. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.bath.ac.uk/~su3ws/wine-faq/wine-faq.html
_Printed Materials_
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
I don't have any affiliation with any of the following. I provide
absolutely no representation about the value, worth or usefulness of any
reference. Most of the information here is the opinion of others. Where
known, I've provided price/publication information. Please feel free to
send me information on these and any other publications.
_BOOKS _
_*Adventures on the Wine Route*_ by Kermit Lynch. "Lively, somewhat
nonconformist, and passionately devoted to good wine, full of fascinating
characters and interesting insights. A great read, even if you aren't
particularly interested in wine. Warning: Lynch, while American, does not
look kindly on the American emphasis on rating wines and on favoring "big"
wines. But even if you don't agree, it's good to hear a different point of
view."
_*American Wine Society Publications*_. Source for technical wine
publications. In the U.S., call (716) 225-7613.
_*California Wine Atlas*_ by Bob ???. "Considered by many to be the best
reference for California wines."
_*The Game of Wine *_by Forrest Roberts and Gilbert Cross. "Charming,
witty and full of anecdotes, recipes and advice." Sounds like fun reading
about the entire concept of drinking wine, not just another tomb about
wine drinking.
_*How and Why To Build a Wine Cellar*_, by Richard Gold.
_*How To Test and Improve Your Judging Ability*_ by ? Marcus. 97 page
booklet. Describes common wine flaws.
_*Assorted books by Hugh Johnson*_. Several classic and well-regarded
works, including the annual Pocket Guide containing varietals, terms,
regions, producers and vineyards, vintages, wine and food, etc. One poster
did mention about the pocket guide: "not recommended for the extremely
myopic." Non-pocket version available at a higher price. "Hugh Johnson's
Modern Encyclopedia of Wine" "is a excellent book talking about all wine
regions around the world. It is very indepth and well written." Also,
"Hugh Johnson's Atlas is a classic, with detailed maps of winemaking areas
around the world."
_*Kellgren's Wine Book Catalog*_, Specialty Books Company, P.O. Box 616,
Croton-On-Hudson, New York, 10520-0616, 1-800-274-4816. Book store or
service. Free catalog may be available at the phone number shown.
_*Masterglass*_, Jancis Robinson. Contains (I'm told) an excellent,
unpretentious list of wine terms.
_*Parker's Wine Buyer's Guide*_, Robert M. Parker, Jr. (Simon and
Schuster/Firestone): Notwithstanding negative comments one might hear
about "Parker," this is an excellent reference. It lists 7500 wines from
around the world and can give you a very good idea of what is good or bad
(though, as always, _you_ may not agree with the tastes of the author).
There is introductory information on, among other things, how to buy and
store wine and aging of the wine. There is an overview of wine growing
areas, ideas about the quality of the wine in recent years from those
areas and commentaries about specific wines. A numerical rating system is
used. Over 1000 pages, my latest copy (1993, 3rd edition) was US $21.00.
_*Sotheby's World Wine Encyclopedia*_ by Tom Stevenson (1988, 480 pages.),
US $40, Bulfinch Press, Little Brown & Company; 25 British Pounds, Dorling
Kindersley UK. Glossy format with colored pictures. Wine regions,
producers, maps, aging, varieties. Comprehensive wine reference. Probably
dated if no new publication since 1988.
_*The Wines of France*_ by Steven Spurrier, Steven. "Great addition to any
library, and his section on the grapes used in wine is excellent,
comprehensive and to be trusted."
*_University of California at Davis Book Catalog_ *contains a number of
books about wine.
_*Vines, Grapes and Wines*_ by Jancis Robinson. Publisher Mitchell Beazly
of London, England. "More concentrated information covering all major wine
producing countries than anything else I have read."
_*Vintage Time Charts*_ by Jancis Robinson. Descriptions of how long to
age particular wines. Described as the "classic" work.
_*Windows on the World Complete Wine Course*_ by Kevin Zaraly. Sterling
Publishing Company. My copy printed 1993, marked at US $22.95. "Helpful
for people getting started."
_*Wine Appreciation Guild Catalog*_. Wine Appreciation Guild, 155
Connecticut Street, San Francisco, California 94107. Large selection of
books; retail and wholesale orders. Catalog has blurb on each book and
therefore is a good reference all by itself.
_*The Wine Book *_by Oz Clarke.
_*Wine Appreciation Guide Catalog*_. 155 Connecticut Street, San
Francisco, California 94107. From a correspondent: The catalog lists (and
describes) just about every English language book on wine published in the
last 30 years.
_*Wine Spectator's Ultimate Guide to Buying Wine*_, Wine Spectator Press,
a division of M. Shanken Communications. (212) 684-4224 or fax (212)
684-5424. US $19.95.
_*Wine Tasting*_ by Michael Broadbent (Fireside/Simon and Schuster; my
copy reprinted 1990, marked at US $10.95). This pocket sized book is very
nice, small (with tiny print), yet in-depth. It isn't about particular
producers, its about _WINE_. What it looks, smells and tastes like. How to
taste. Color plates to show how wine changes. Nice section on how to put
on a serious wine tasting.
X. LEARNING ABOUT WINE
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Miscellaneous
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
COURSES ON WINE
_*The University of California at Davis*_ confers college degrees. Their
web site is http://wineserver.ucdavis.edu/.
_*The Wine and Spirit Education Trust Diploma*_ is recommended to UK
students considering studying for the "Master of Wine" examination.
However the Master of Wine is an international qualification with study
courses and exams run in Boston, Sydney, Montpellier and London. It is
open to any one in the trade who can demonstrate adequate experience and
knowledge as it is a difficult exam to pass. It takes two years with a
dissertation on an aspect of viticulture or vinification in year 1 with
written and tasting exams in year 2. Potential candidates should contact
the Institute of Masters of Wine. Five Kings House, 1 Queen Street Place,
London EC4R 1QS, Great Britain; +44 171 236 4427, fax: + 44 171 329 0298.
_WINERIES_
Many people have asked for an on-line compendium of every winery in
existence. The best place to get this information is from a book. If you
insist on using the Internet, then you are relying on the talents of some
dedicated compilers or the commercial leanings of the wineries themselves.
(I'm not saying they may not have altruistric motives, the Internet is
cheap, but let's be real.) For some lists of wineries on the Internet, see
the section on Internet Resources. As of this writing, more wine magazines
are setting up web sites. They probably will provide a great deal of
information (perhaps for a fee) on specific wines and wineries.
Wineries are an excellent place to learn about wine when approached with
the proper frame of mind: drunkeness is not a particularly good way to
remember much about what you were drinking. Another very important point
to remember about tasting at wineries is that you probably aren't tasting
the wine the way you would at home. Besides the somewhat crowded,
sometimes rushed situations you face in the winery, the bottle might have
been open for hours or even days. In my mind, however, the most important
thing is that you probably will drink the wine with food at home. The
differences in the way a wine tastes when you are eating can be
momumental. What might be a so-so wine in the winery might be wonderful at
home, and vice-versa. Nevertheless you can usually get a good idea of the
wines you like when tasting a various wineries in a particular area over a
short period of time. Take notes, have a good time, and use the "dump
bucket."
While traveling through wine areas, you will find that many wineries let
you come in and taste their wines free of charge. Since we aren't really
out to get drunk on these trips, we find ourselves constantly asking the
pourers to "go easy". Purists may say that you need more than we ask for
in order to get enough wine in the glass to swirl and smell. We find that
we get along just fine without a large pour. Makes us feel better about
not "wasting" wine. Perhaps we are naive about the wasting part, since the
wineries know what they are doing when it comes to the promotion and sale
of their wine. But this brings us to the subject of charging for tasting.
There ain't no such thing as a free lunch, so the saying goes, but free
wine tastings seem to come awfully close. Once you're used to the concept,
walking into a place and being charged for the "priviledge" of finding out
whether you want to spend a lot of money on buying something you can't
otherwise personally know anything about seems almost offensive! (Really,
how much more subjective can any subject be than the choice of wine to
drink?)
Or course it all comes down to supply and demand. Wineries that find that
people will pay may charge. Answer? There are still _lots_ of wineries
making great wine that do not charge. If you are so inclined, tell the
charging winery so and walk out. (We're not going to get into the argument
that charging cuts down on drunkeness; there are enough people that will
pay and get drunk anyhow.) A winery may not often be pouring their best
wines, which, in many cases, are in short supply. However, if you look
like you are somewhat knowledgeable about what you want to drink, know a
bit about the particular winery's wine, and are genuinely interested in
purchasing the more expensive wines (and show up when things aren't so
busy), you may find that you will be allowed to taste them, for the
asking. Sometimes a winery will charge for tasting the better wines. This
seems a fair compromise (so maybe we'll support them on this one, though
perhaps we're still naive). Some wineries, for a price (if not outrageous,
certainly justified, this time), go all out and will pour much older
"library" wines which they have stored and are now again releasing for
sale. Such tastings are very informative, for even if you can't afford to
buy the wine, you can get some idea of how more current wines will "age,"
or just what all the hoopla is about when people talk about drinking wines
that have been around for a long time.
For a more personal look at visiting wineries, check out the section on
Learning About Wine: Starting Out.
_WINE TASTINGS_
Horace Rumpole, aging Old Bailey hack (also known as a barrister
practicing law in the criminal courts in London), attending what
undoubtedly was his first wine tasting after many years consuming the less
than stately Chateau Thames Embankment, given a somewhat more pleasing
claret, found that it was a vintage "Cool'd a long age in the deep-delved
earth, tasting of Flora and the country green." And while he reveled in
drinking the "flavour of Dance, and Provencal song, and sunburnt mirth,
mixed with a dash of wild strawberries," he was bedeviled by a fellow
taster who demanded: "can't you spit?" [For a fun time, read Rumpole and
the Blind Tasting, in Rumpole's Last Case, by John Mortimer, Penguin
Books. Or read any Rumpole story! Also a popular TV program. Also a
popular audio series, especially when performed (not just read) by Leo
McKern--doing all the voices. OK, so wine isn't the only thing I like....]
Poor Rumpole. All he was trying to do was enjoy a decent wine and he is
reproached for failing to use the expectoration area. Of course the idea
is that you don't _drink_ the wine, you merely _taste_ it. Among other
things, this means that you don't get drunk. The concept of spittoons, or
sandboxes, properly placed, is real factor in "real" tastings. It should
be OK to drink the wine when there aren't many being served and care is
taken. But if there is a large number of wines to sample, drinking them
all is going to become a problem.
On the other hand, you don't have to be all uppity about tasting wine.
Friends gathering to try out a number of wines (in moderation) is a good
way to learn about wine. "Dumping" the glass eventually is a good idea
just to avoid the drunkenness, which, among other things, will prevent you
from learning anything at all.
The really serious also get into "blind tastings" where the participants
(often contestants) must identify not only the type of wine, but the
vintage and producer. There are those who can do that; there are also
those who think the only way you _can_ do that is to practice it 3 or 4
times a week. Having never participated in a blind tasting (and since I
have an abysmal memory, I doubt that I ever will), I cannot attest to how
much fun such a contest is. There are certainly those who take great
pleasure in it. Many people seem to think that you add something to the
wine tasting experience by injecting something like a contest into it. For
many this can be intimidating.
Of course, the best reason for tasting wine under blinded conditions
(meaning where the identity of each wine isn't known until after the
tasting is done) is so that the tasters can judge the wine on its own
merits, uninfluenced by any prejudices or expectations based on where the
wine is from or what year it is. Blind tastings often yield surprising
results, such as when an obscure wine is strongly preferred by the tasters
over the first growth Bordeaux that was also in the tasting. Most people
who taste blind do so in order to evaluate the wine entirely by its taste,
rather than by its label.
A very knowledgeable wine person tells me: "What can be really amusing
when you have a wine snob (not a knowledgeable connoisseur, but one of
those who likes to put on airs and brag about how anything except
first-growth Bordeaux is junk) over for dinner is to decant a bottle of
something good bug cheap into a bottle with a posh label on it. Then,
after the snob has gushed rhapsodic over the wine, show him or her the
other bottle and explain what you did." I'm not necessarily a promoter of
deception, but I certainly don't advocate snobbery; do this at your own
risk!
An interesting idea in any event is to taste a "first label" against the
"second label" of a vintner. Some wineries will put out their best wine
under their own name, and then use a different label for wine that they
like but don't think is worthy of their normal production. Tasting between
the two can give a good opportunity to see what the winemaker thinks about
similar products.
_WINE CRITICS_
Robert Parker, an attorney who was able to do something which suited his
interests and perhaps to many is a whole lot more fun. He got to become
the ultimate wine expert. Lots of people "don't like Robert Parker." They
miss the point. Robert Parker, like all of us, has his own likes and
dislikes. The fact that "Parker" likes a wine is completely of no
consequence; if _you_ don't like the wine (or vice-versa). If you wish to
follow Parker because you know nothing about a wine and want to know where
to begin, that's certainly fine, and not a bad idea. If you like a wine
and Parker doesn't and you change your mind about it because you believe
Parker over your own palate, then I'll wonder about you. Taste is on the
tongue of the beholder.
The only _true_ problem with Parker is that if he _really likes_ a wine,
don't wait around long trying to find it. It'll be gone before you get a
chance to buy (or the price will increase out of your range). Fortunately
there are quite a few wines that Parker doesn't like that many find
absolutely wonderful and remain bargains. Since wine making is an annual
event, you get to figure this out every year.
Mr. Parker has been found on the Prodigy service at EXP42B@prodigy.com.
(A note: Posts indicate that Mr. Parker has an investment in a winery
(with his brother-in-law) in Oregon; that he does not review the wine, nor
mention the name of the wine in his writings and reviews. Posts generally
liked the Pinot.)
XI. PHYSIOLOGIC NOTES ON WINE_
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Alcohol can damage your liver. On the other hand, there has been much
suggestion that the drinking of wine is somehow "good for you." While it
might calm your nerves a bit, what many want to say is that, for whatever
reason, it can protect you from heart disease, perhaps by lowering
cholesterol. Some point to those parts of the world where people eat high
fat diets, drink lots of wine, and live to a very old age.
Some of the problems here are statistics. A good statistician can prove
black is white, more or less. There may be other factors that are
overlooked.
The bottom line is that, at this stage of knowledge, it probably isn't a
good idea to _start_ drinking to obtain hypothetical protective effects.
Whether it helps you if you are drinking is controversial. Most people
will agree that if you drink "too much," it is _not_ good for you (for a
variety of reasons).
_ALLERGIC REACTIONS TO WINE_
The biggest complaint here is that some people develop headaches from
drinking wine. There are several proposed causes. One is that sulfites
added by the producer (or can be naturally present in lesser amounts)
cause the allergic reaction. Furthermore, it has been suggested that
cheaper wines are likely to have more sulfites as a cheap substitute for
careful grape selection and winemaking. Some people say that it is only
red wine that causes them a problem. Sulfites are present in both red and
white wines. Another possible cause is anthocyanin pigments which are what
makes "red" grapes red. These are also present in blue cheese. If both
cause you problems, maybe you've found a reason?
While there are wines that claim to be sulfite free, most people will tell
you that this is not possible, as sulfites exist in nature on the grape.
However, the amount would be less if not artificially introduced. But
since sulfur dioxide is used to control how the wine is produced (getting
rid of unwanted yeasts, molds and bacteria), some feel that you may not
get as good a wine. United States law requires that wine with over 10
parts per million of sulfites state that the wine "contains" sulfites.
Solutions suggested by some (but not recommended or approved by me in any
way) are: Drink lots of water before drinking the wine. Take a pain-killer
first. The problem with this last one is that is known to enhance the
alcoholic affect. The best answer is, if this is a problem, don't drink
wine. Some suggest wines not made from grapes.
I have received notes (and welcome more) from people indicating that the
following wineries may produce wine that claim to be "sulfite free." If
this is important to you, you should directly with these producers:
+ Organic Wine Works, Felton, California. Entire line of reds and whites
+ Chateau Le Barradis, Monbazillac, France.
_CALORIES IN WINE_
Most of the calories in wine come from alcohol, though some additional
calories come from the "food" that came from the fruit (proteins,
carbohydrates [like sugar], etc.). Since some wines are more dry than
sweet (that is, they have less sugar), those wines would have a little
less calories. Also, wines vary in alcohol content, which would, of
course, also affect the number of calories from alcohol. The United States
Department of Agriculture says that 100 grams of "table wine" (12.2
percent alcohol by volume) has 85 calories while 100 grams of "dessert
wine" (18.8 percent alcohol by volume) has 135 calories.
In any event, a pretty good rule of thumb is that table wine has
approximately 25 calories per ounce. When cooking with wine, you can end
up boiling out the alcohol. The result is that the calorie impact from the
wine is drastically reduced.
_PREGNANCY AND WINE_
Heavy alcohol use in pregnancy can lead to birth defects. Some doctors
feel that the safest course is not to drink any alcohol at all during
pregnancy. Others feel that light, occasional drinking has not been shown
to be harmful. Check with your doctor!
_WINE AS A SLEEPING AID_
The general consensus is that alcohol might help you fall asleep
immediately but that you'll be up in the middle of the night. A warm glass
of milk seems to be a better idea.
_LEAD IN WINE_
Some people are concerned about high levels of lead in wine. A possible
reason is that the high acidity levels in wine help to cause lead to leach
out of things that it touches. Lead "capsules" (the foil at the top of the
bottle) have all but disappeared from new bottles of wine for this reason.
You can wipe the top of a bottle with a damp cloth before pouring if you
have an older bottle with a lead capsule. There is some reason to believe
that lead can be leached out of lead crystal glasses. Whether this occurs
in significant numbers in the short run I do not at this time know, but I
have read some material that indicates it is not a good idea to store an
alcoholic beverage in crystal decanters for long periods of time.
--
Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.mindspring.net.MISMATCH!news.mindspring.net!firehose.mindspring.com!bradb
From: bradb@netcom.com (Brad)
Newsgroups: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine,rec.answers,alt.answers,news.answers
Subject: Wine (the beverage) FAQ, part9 of 10 [LONG]
Followup-To: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine
Date: 30 Sep 2000 17:19:09 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 276
Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.EDU
Message-ID: <8r57ad$ud3$1@slb6.atl.mindspring.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: c7.b7.09.74
Summary: A 10 part FAQ on the beverage wine with various asides
Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.food.drink:47102 alt.food.wine:64080 rec.answers:61451 alt.answers:51501 news.answers:192798
Archive-name: drink/wine-faq/part9
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Copyright: (c) 1995-2000 Bradford S. Brown (Notices/Disclaimers in pt. 10)
Last-modified: 2000/06/01
U.S. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.sbwines.com/usenet_winefaq [newest]
U.K. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.bath.ac.uk/~su3ws/wine-faq/wine-faq.html
XII. TOURING THE WINE COUNTRY
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
We might give up before we start, but for now, we'll have a lot of
reserved. Touring the wine country is a personal adventure. Everybody has
their own impressions as to what they like and how they like to do it.
Initially we provided WWW links to various tourist sites, but with the
explosion of the WWW, there is no keeping up. Instead, check the Internet
Resources section for hints on where to start in finding your particular
interests.
_CANADA_
_Niagara Peninsula_
You may wish to tour the wineries of the Niagara Peninsula in southern
Ontario. After visiting the famous Falls, the Wine Route can provide an
interesting summer afternoon drive. One end is on the Niagara Parkway,
between Queenston Heights and Niagara-on-the-Lake, and it wanders through
the vineyards and orchards to the Niagara Bench area and the town of
Grimsby. It passes near about 25 wineries. The route, not counting stops,
takes 2-3 hours to drive. Coach tours are available.
Most of the wineries provide free tastings. However, if you want to try
Ontario's famous Eiswein (icewine) you will probably have to pay a little
- it's too expensive to give away.
_Okanagan Valley_
Located west of the Canadian Rockies in the southeastern part of British
Columbia, the Okanagan Similkameen area contains a number of wineries. The
Okanagan Valley, similar in latitude to German wine growing regions has
produced grapes since the 1800's, however in the 1970's a series of major
replantings with the hopes of transforming the area into a world-class
wine growing area, with over 25 wineries currently in operation. Fruit
stands are frequent along the highways which pass by scenic lakes. Some
wineries co-exist with new homes. The Similkameen high desert valley runs
along the Similkameen River in the Cascade Mountains and is a much more
recent addition the list of wine producing areas. A large number of wine
related events take place throughout the year. A tourism guide is
available from the Okanagan Similkameen Tourism Association of British
Columbia, which you can also probably get from the British Columbia
Tourism people by phone (check your local listings).
_FRANCE_
Okay. We've never been to France. There are enough books and tourist
guides to fill a library. But if anybody has anything specific they would
like to add, let us know. So far we've heard:
_UNITED STATES OF AMERICA_
_California_
_*Central Coast*_
Centered more or less between Solvang/Buellton and Santa Maria, the
Central Coast has, in recent times, begun to produce a great deal of
extremely good wine. Given that the Mondavi family of Napa has recently
come in and bought up a lot of the best acreage, it is clear that what is
coming from the area is not without some very large potential!
Many people like to stay in either Santa Barbara (and drive the 45 minutes
or so to the southern wine areas), or in and around Solvang, a town that
tries to look a bit like (so I'm told) a small Danish town, down to a
windmill on top of the most famous Danish pastry shop in town.
Because there are a number of very small producers without tasting rooms,
there are several wine tasting rooms which, for a small fee, will let you
sample a large number of the area's wines that you could not otherwise
taste. One such room is the _*Los Olivos Tasting Room *_in the center of
the small town of Los Olivos (about 10 minutes north of Solvang). Another
(run by a local wine writer), is the _*Los Olivos Wine and Spirits
Emporium*_, located about a mile west of the center of Los Olivos (web
site [http://www.sbwines.com] : http://www.sbwines.com). (Netizens may
like the "wine glass stained" mouse pads offered there; we're using one
"as we speak.")
_*Gold Country*_
[Reserved.]
_*Mendocino*_
[Reserved.]
_*Napa*_
When most people first think of where the wine country in California is,
they probaby first think of Napa. About an hour's drive (when you are
lucky) north of San Francisco, the wine boom of the last 30 or so years
has transformed the area's farms and farmers. World class fine wines are
produced here by family farmers, wine barons and multi-national
corporations, just to name a few. Wines to fit every taste and every
pocketbook can be found at almost every turn.
So far as touring the area, the first thing many people think of is
"expensive." While a vacation in a wine area might not be as costly as
some resort packages, the Napa area has experienced such a huge tourist
influx that the cost of lodging and food (both of which can be extremely
good) have risen rapidly. Our travels have shown us that a higher
percentage of wineries charge for tasting in Napa than in any other area
we have visited.
In any event, you can be treated to some of the finest dining anywhere in
establishments that, as often as not, provide reasonably priced wines from
local producers. Many wineries have beautiful areas in which to picnic,
and you can get food from some of the wineries (and, of course, if you
want, wine), or provide your own from markets, bakeries and deli's in the
area, especially along or just off of Highway 29.
For those who are interested, there are also balloon rides, sail planes,
resorts, mud baths, a wine "train" and even a gondola ride to get you to a
winery (at a price).
Of course another cost of all these tourist attractions is that there are
a lot of tourists. The crowds can be a bit overwhelming at times. It is
best to plan for off-peak periods and mid-week visits if you want to avoid
some of the herds.
_*Paso Robles*_
[Reserved.]
_*Sonoma*_
North of San Francisco and west over the hills from Napa lies Sonoma
County. Where Napa is glitz and glamor, Sonoma seems to be more "down
home." Perhaps this is an illusion as big companies take over more and
more acreage, but there are still lots of smaller wineries making world
class wine in an agricultural setting. The area is bigger than Napa and
since it is more spread out, it isn't quite the tourist attraction, nor
does it have quite the "trendiness." There aren't as many "upscale"
restaurants (but there are some; we've tried and liked, for example,
_*Mixx*_ in Santa Rosa, _*John Ash & Co.*_ just north of Santa Rosa and
the _*Willowside Cafe *_somewhat west of Santa Rosa._* *_There is wine
that is just as good and the crowds are smaller. If you want a bit more of
the tourist feeling, stay in and around the city of Sonoma, otherwise, the
city of Santa Rosa is a good base. You can even cross over the hills and
spend some time in Napa. If you think we're putting Sonoma down, don't. We
don't want to let a good thing out of the bag. We spend much more time in
Sonoma when we're up that way.
_*Temecula*_
[Reserved.]
XIII. MISCELLANY
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
IMPORTING WINE
_*Into the United States*_
I've not checked the following information. Check with Customs! Posts
indicate:
You are allowed to bring into the U.S. some amount of liquor duty free.
After that, 10% flat rate for the first $1000 above the $400 duty free
limit (for most other items) allowed. You must carry the wine with you.
Mailing/shipping it back requires an importer, and some say it will
disappear in any event.
_KOSHER WINE_
When I think of Kosher wine, I think of Mogan David. Most of those wines
are sweetened and some use artificial flavors.
Posts have spoken of other producers:
+ Carmel
+ Baron Herzog (California)
+ Gan Eden (California)
+ Galil (Israel)
+ Golan Heights (Golan Heights)
+ Royal Kedem (Israel)
+ Weinstock (California)
_MAKING YOUR OWN WINE_
Definitely something that can be done, but far afield from our experience.
Some of the best wine we've drunk is from home winemakers, and many
commercial winemakers got their start making wine at home. There are a
great number of cyberspace resources in this area, including a FAQ on
winemaking and a FAQ on winemaking resources. Check out:
_*Usenet*_: rec.crafts.wine-making
_*World Wide Web:*_ Don
Buchan's Wine Guide Page
[http://www.cam.org/~malak/guide] at http://www.cam.org/~malak/guide with
links to his FAQs on making wine and internet wine-making resources, as
well as information on wine-making kits, recipes, etc. See additional
sites as listed in the "Winemaking" section of Appendix A.
_*E-mail*_: Don Buchan [malak@cam.org] is at malak@cam.org.
_*FTP:*_ rtfm.mit.edu (all FAQs)
_*Gopher:*_ gopher.physics.utoronto.ca (all FAQ's via rtfm.mit.edu)
_PAN-GALACTIC GARGLE BLASTER_
While I wouldn't bet that there is any wine in a Pan-Galactic Gargle
Blaster, who knows? Check with Zaphod Beeblebrox.
_RECIPES_
_*Wine Coolers*_
Two bottles red wine (don't spend a lot!). 1 container frozen orange juice
concentrate. Several cinnamon sticks several whole cloves. (I've never
made this....)
Chill and serve in a punch bowl with strawberries on top. Add soda water
for a weaker concoction.
_SHIPPING_
If you are shipping wine, take note that many wineries will hold off
shipment to accommodate either your schedule or the weather. You probably
don't want your wine sitting around a very hot loading dock in the middle
of summer.
Check Appendix A for some URL's discussing legal aspects of wine and the
shipping of wine. Some states do not allow shipping into their
jurisdiction. Why? Alternate theories include morals and/or tax revenues.
_
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
APPENDIX A. WINE BOOKMARK LIST (in HTML)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following is a sub-set of Dean Turdor's Wines, Beers and Spirits of
the Net [http://www.acs.ryerson.ca/~journal/wine.html] , removing most of
the non-wine links. Thanks to Mssr. Tudor for his permission to use his
list. For a complete and current copy of his list, go to
http://www.acs.ryerson.ca/~journal/wine.html. The following listing was
created in November, 1997.
For ease of use, the entire list will be included in part 10
--
Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!howland.erols.net!netnews.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!news.mindspring.net!firehose.mindspring.com!bradb
From: bradb@netcom.com (Brad)
Newsgroups: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine,rec.answers,alt.answers,news.answers
Subject: Wine (the beverage) FAQ, part10 of 10 [LONG]
Followup-To: rec.food.drink,alt.food.wine
Date: 30 Sep 2000 17:20:10 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises
Lines: 2195
Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.EDU
Message-ID: <8r57ca$rnm$1@nntp9.atl.mindspring.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: c7.b7.09.74
Summary: A 10 part FAQ on the beverage wine with various asides
Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.food.drink:47110 alt.food.wine:64088 rec.answers:61459 alt.answers:51509 news.answers:192806
Archive-name: drink/wine-faq/part10
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Copyright: (c) 1995-2000 Bradford S. Brown (Notices/Disclaimers in pt. 10)
Last-modified: 2000/06/01
U.S. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.sbwines.com/usenet_winefaq [newest]
U.K. WWW (HTML) Mirror: http://www.bath.ac.uk/~su3ws/wine-faq/wine-faq.html
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
APPENDIX A. WINE BOOKMARK LIST (in HTML)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following is a sub-set of Dean Turdor's Wines, Beers and Spirits of
the Net [http://www.acs.ryerson.ca/~journal/wine.html] , removing most of
the non-wine links. Thanks to Mssr. Tudor for his permission to use his
list. For a complete and current copy of his list, go to
http://www.acs.ryerson.ca/~journal/wine.html. The following listing was
created in November, 1997.
For ease of use, the entire list will be included in part 10
Corrections/additions to
dtudor@acs.ryerson.ca
This is an attempt to keep up with online resources devoted to wines,
beers and spirits, largely from the Internet. Editions are posted bimonthly.
Most wine merchants are no longer listed, due to space restrictions and
the fact that Dean Tudor is not a commercial operation; instead, try
Yahoo
Wine Shops
USENET/NETNEWS GROUPS:
MAILING LIST DISCUSSION GROUPS:
WORLD-WIDE WEB (WWW) URLs:
Reference Materials:
E-zines and Magazines:
General Materials:
Old World Wines (generally):
Italy
-
Nat.Italian Agricultural Institute
(INEA)
-
Italian Internet Winery
-
VinItaly
-
Premium Italian Wines and Spirits
-
Agricola Monterinaldi Srl
-
Italy Wines
-
Vinomania
-
Vinimar, Marche
-
M.Marconi, Marche
-
Bava Azienda Vitivincola
-
Consorzio del Marchio Storico
- Chianti Classico
-
Sella & Mosca
-
Masi
-
Serego Alighieri
-
Michele Chiarlo, Piedmont
-
Vigneto Ai Casali
-
Italian Wine Online
-
Gruppo Italiano Vini
-
Movimento Turismo del Vino (Italy)
-
Prosecco Wines (Italy)
-
Avignonesi (Tuscany)
-
Marchesi Antinori
-
Italian
Veneto & Tuscan Wines
-
Marco's Italian Wines
-
Venturini
Farmyard Estate, Italy
-
Fontana Candida
-
Marquis Alfieri wines (Piedmont)
-
Rocca della Macie (Chianti)
-
Castello Banfi
-
F.Ili Giorgi
-
Grandi Vini d'Italia
-
Tenuta Torciano France
-
Vitis Vinifera (France reference)
-
Wines of France
-
Champagne Wines Information Bureau
-
Veuve Clicquot
-
Piper Heidsieck
-
Moet & Chandon Champagne
-
Champagne Lecler-Briant
-
Moulin & Assoc.
Champagne Consultants
-
Champagne Raymond Boulard
-
Lanson Champagne
-
Perrier Jouet
-
Mumm
-
Ch.Lafite
-
Chateau Haut-Brion
-
Ginestet
-
Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux
-
Bordeaux Wines (CIVB)
-
Bordeaux Wines
-
Cordier
-
Ch.Figeac
-
Ch.La Mission Haut-Brion
-
Ch.Pichon Longueville Comtesse
de Lalande
-
Ch.D'Yquem
-
Andre Lurton
-
Georges DuBoeuf
-
Wines of Beaujolais
-
Demessey Winery
-
Hugel
-
Domaine Paul Blanck (Alsace)
-
Wines of Alsace
-
Emile Beyer, Alsace
-
Leon Beyer
-
Josmeyer
-
Perrin
-
Food and Wines from France
-
Quality French Wines (Vinternet)
-
Bureau Interprofessional Des Vins de Bourgogne
-
Leon Grivelet-Cusset
-
Burgundy Wines
-
Burgundy Cellar
-
J. Drouhin
-
Hospices de Beaune
-
Louis Latour
-
Hospice du Rhone
-
P.Jaboulet Aine
-
Cotes du Rhone Wines
-
Chateauneuf-du-Pape
-
Dom. de Beaurenard (Rhone)
-
Wines of the French Riviera
-
Gascony Wines
-
Wines
of Southwest France
-
Languedoc Wines (Curries' Wine)
-
Domaines Bunan, Provence
Spain
-
Spanish Wine Page
-
Interwines Guide to Spain
-
El Celler Catala (Spain)
-
Vinos de la Ribera del
Duero
-
Bod.Torremilanos
-
Bod.Balbas
-
Freixenet Cava
-
La Rioja Alta
-
Codorniu Cava
-
Bodegas Torres
-
Jumilla, Spain
-
Bod.Fabregas,
Spain
-
Bod.Navarro
Lopez, Spain
-
Gonzalez Byass sherry
-
Consejo Regulador DO Jerez-Sherry y Manzanilla
-
E. Lustau Sherries
Portugal
-
Portuguese Wine Pages
-
Portuguese Wine
-
Port Page
-
Croft Port
-
Port Wine
Germany
-
German Wines
-
Jordan and
Jordan (German winery)
-
Die
Palz (German wines, in German)
-
Gault Millau Weinguide Deutschland
-
German Wine Guide
-
German Wine
-
Peter Ruhrberg's German Wine Page
-
Weingut S.A.Pruem
-
Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt
(Mosel)
-
Weingut Dr.Loosen (Bernkastel)
-
German Wine Information Bureau
-
German Wine Online
-
German Wine Estates
Other Europe
-
The Swiss Wine Page
-
Swiss Wines (Obrist)
-
Hungarian
wines
-
Tokaj
Wine Region
-
Vinpol, Poland
-
Greek Wine Page
-
Greek Wine
-
Croatian wines
-
Bulgarian Master Vintners
-
Vinprom Svishtov (Bulgaria)
-
Slovenian
wines
-
Slovenian Wines
-
Austrian Wines
-
English Wines
-
Vineyards of
England and Wales
-
Guide to English &
Welsh Vyds
-
Georgia Wines
Other
-
Chateau Musar
-
Golan Heights Winery (Israel)
-
Allied Domecq
-
Export-Onlne European Wine
Growers
New World Wines (generally):
United States
-
US Wines
-
American Vintners Association
-
West Coast Wine
Discussion Group
-
California Wine Mall
-
Consorzio Cal-Italia
-
Clos Du Val
-
ZOW: Zinfandel On the Web
-
Massachusetts
Winery Page
-
Connecticut
Winery Page
-
Wineries of US
East Coast
-
Wine Institute of California
-
California's Gold Medal Winners
-
Family Winemakers of California
-
Anderson Valley Winegrowers Association
-
Calaveras County Winegrowers Association
-
Edna Valley Arroyo Grande Vintners
-
Livermore Valley Winegrowers Association
-
Mendocino Winegrowers Alliance
-
Napa Valley Vintners Association
-
Napa Valley
-
Santa Clara Valley Wine Growers Association
-
Santa Cruz
Mountains Winegrowers Association
-
Silverado Trail
-
Sonoma County Wineries Association
-
SteveO's California
Wine Touring Guides
-
ZAP: Zinfandel Advocates Producers
-
Carneros Creek Winery
-
Fetzer Vineyards
-
Kalin Cellars
-
R.Mondavi Winery
-
Beringer Wines
-
Joseph Phelps Vineyards
-
Sutter Home
-
Guenoc Winery
-
Storybook Mountain Vineyards (Napa)
-
Domaine Chandon, CA
-
Korbel
-
S.Anderson Vineyards (Napa)
-
V.Sattui, Napa
-
Chappellet Winery
-
Elliston Vineyards (Livermore)
-
Retzlaff Vineyards (Livermore)
-
Kenwood Winery, Sonoma
-
Clos Du Bois, Sonoma
-
Dry Creek Vineyard
-
Santa Barbara Winery
-
Matanzas Creek Winery
-
Foppiano Winery
-
Canyon Road
-
Geyser Peak
-
Kautz Ironstone Vineyards
-
St.Supery
-
Clos Pepe (Santa Barbara)
-
Franciscan Vineyards
-
Parducci
-
Bayview Cellars
-
Sonoma-Cutrer Vineyards
-
Melville Vineyards, Santa Barbara
-
Amizetta Vineyards, CA
-
Washington Wine Institute
-
Rosedale Vyd, Maryland
-
Perdido Winery, Alabama
-
Lake Erie Quality Wine Alliance
-
Ohio Wine Producers Association
-
Georgetown Vineyards, Ohio
-
Michigan wines
-
Wine Country of Missouri
-
Finger Lakes
Wine Trails
-
Hudson River, NY, Wineries
-
Finger Lakes, NY, region
and wines
-
Long Island NY Wine Council
-
Uncork New York: NY Wine & Grape Foundation
-
Seneca Lake Wine Trail
-
Fox Run Vineyards, NY
-
Casa Larga, NY
-
Glenora Wine Cellars, NY
-
Lamoreaux Landing, NY
-
Wagner, NY
-
Standing Stone, NY
-
Six Mile Creek
Vineyard, NY
-
Williamsburg Winery, VA
-
Virginia Wine Country
-
Tastes of Texas
-
North
Carolina Grapes and Wines
-
Waldensian Wines and Cider, North Carolina
-
(Pacific) Northwest Wine Coalition
-
Wines Northwest
-
Washington State Wineries
-
Oregon Wine Advisory Board
-
Oregon Pinot Noir Club
-
Raptor Ridge Winery, OR
-
Rex Hill Winery, OR
-
Springhill Cellars, OR
-
Argyle Winery, OR
-
Beaux Freres, OR
-
Pontchartrain Vineyards
Canada
-
Wines of Canada
-
Ontario Wines
-
Canadian Wines,
Wineries and Vineyards
-
Canwine Home Page
-
Vintners Quality Alliance (Canada)
-
Archibald Orchards and
Estate Winery
-
Colio Winery
-
Cilento Winery
-
Viticultural Roundtable of
Southwestern Ontario
-
Pillitteri Estates
-
Lakeview Cellars, Ont.
-
Andres Wines
-
Hillebrand Estates
-
Chateau des Charmes
-
Jackson-Triggs
-
Wine Council of Ontario
-
Vincor Wines & Stores
-
Vineland Estates Winery, Ontario
-
Kittling-Ridge Winery, Ontario
-
EastDell Estates, Ontario
-
Inniskillin Wines, Ontario
-
Pelee Island Winery
-
Stonechurch Winery
-
Stoney Ridge, Ont.
-
Reif Winery
-
Konzelmann Wines, Ontario
-
Thirty Bench Winery, Ontario
-
Henry of Pelham Wines, Ontario
-
Magnotta Winery, Ontario
-
Southbrook Farms Winery, Ontario
-
Hernder Estates
-
Norfolk Estate Winery
-
Mosquito Creek
Vineyards, Ontario
-
Malivoire Wine Company
-
Wine Country Merchants
-
Strewn Winery
-
Bellamere Country Market Winery (fruit
wines)
-
DeSousa Wine Cellars
-
Joseph's Estate Wines
-
Norfolk Estate Winery
-
Rush Creek Wines
-
Sunnybrook Farm Estate Winery
(fruit wines)
-
Willow Heights Winery
-
Vinoteca Winery
-
Peller Estates
-
Ontario
Grape Grower's Marketing Board
-
British Columbia Wines
-
BC Wine Information Centre
-
Gray Monk Estate Winery, BC
-
Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards
-
Inniskillin Okanagan
Inkameep Vineyards
-
Quail's Gate
-
Hainle Winery, BC
-
Sumac Ridge, BC
-
Summerhill Wines, BC
-
Larch Hills Winery, BC
-
Cherry Point Vineyards, BC
-
Hester Creek
-
Hillside Estate
-
St.Hubertus
-
Tinhorn Creek
-
Bella Vista Vineyards
-
Burrowing Owl Vineyards
-
Calona Vineyards
-
Columbia Valley Classics
-
Domaine de Chaberton Estate
Winery
-
Okanagan Wine Festivals Society
-
Recline Ridge Winery
-
Saturna Island Vineyard
and Winery
-
Vinophiles Quebecois
-
Perkins Maplery, PQ
(maple wine)
-
Vignoble Angile,
PQ
-
Vignoble de l'Orpailleur, PQ
-
Vignoble La Bauge, PQ
-
Vignoble Morou, PQ
-
Lunenburg County Winery, NS
-
Telder Berry Wines,
NS
New Zealand
-
New Zealand Wines Online
-
Voss Estate
-
Nobilo, NZ
-
Marlborough
NZ Wine Trail
-
Gisborne, NZ, Wines
-
Palliser Estates NZ
-
Grove Mill Wine, NZ
-
Matua Valley Wines,NZ
-
Corbans
-
Sapich Brothers Winery, NZ
-
Gibbston Valley Winery,
NZ
-
Central Otago Wine
Trail
-
Allan Scott Wines
-
Nautilus Wines
-
Felton Road Wines
-
Central Otago, NZ
-
Kemblefield Estate, NZ
Australia
-
Australian National Wine Centre
-
Australian Wine Centre
-
Australian Wine
Online
-
Australian Vineyards
-
Australian Wine in
the News
-
Australian Wine Research
Institute
-
Ron Potter Wine
Centre
-
Hunter Valley Wines
-
Southcorp Wines
-
Coldstream Hills
-
De Bortoli
-
Brown Brothers
-
Seaview Wines
-
BRL Hardy
-
Lindeman's
-
Yalumba
-
Mildara Blass
-
Cranswick Estate
-
Redbank Winery
-
Fox Creek Wine, McLaren
Vale
-
Capel Vale Wines
-
Dionysus Australia
-
Seppelts
-
Wynns Coonawarra Estate
-
Australian
Winery Reviews
-
St.Hallett Wines
-
Chatsfield Wines
-
Domaine A Stoney
Vineyard
-
Penfolds Wines, Australia
-
Peter Lehmann Wines, Australia
-
Tasmanian Vineyards
and Wineries
-
Tasmanian Wines
-
Valley View Estates, Australia
-
McWilliams, Australia
-
Miranda Wines, Australia
South Africa
-
South African Wine Pages
-
South African Wines from RSA Wines Inc.
-
Best Wines of South Africa
-
Pinotage Club, South Africa
-
South African
Wine Society (Toronto)
-
K.W.V. (Paarl)
-
Bergkelder (South Africa)
Chile
-
Wines of Chile
-
Chilean Wine Guide
-
Concha y Toro
-
Vina Cono Sur
-
Vina Santa Carolina
-
Errazuriz, Chile
Argentina
-
Nicolas Catena Wines,
Argentina
-
Argentine Wines
Wine Merchants (selective):
Winemaking:
Wine Software, Wine Furnishings, Other Vinous activities:
IRC CHANNELS:
BULLETIN BOARD NETWORKS:
-
FidoNet: VIN_MAISON (Homewinemaking); ZYMURGY (Beer and Homebrewing)
-
ILink: Wine & Beer
-
SmartNet: Wines
PROPRIETARY ONLINE SERVICES (Forums)
-
CompuServe: GO BACCHUS; GO WINEFORUM; GO BEER; Liquor By Wire
-
America Online: Food & Drink Network; Single Malts
==========================================================================
LEGALS
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
All portions of this guide, whether contained in one document or in part
are
Copyright (c) 1995-1997 by Bradford S. Brown
This guide, whether in whole or in part, may not be sold for profit,
quoted in whole or in part, or incorporated in commercial or
non-commercial documents or reproduced in any manner without the written
permission of the copyright holder.
The author does not consider nor intend that the placing of this guide on
any computer system, computer network or network of computer networks, or
any other distribution whatsoever, to be a release of the guide into the
public domain. All rights are reserved.
Permission may be expressly granted for this document to be made available
for file transfer from installations offering unrestricted anonymous file
transfer on the Internet, or other forms of file transfer currently known
or to be invented in the future. Obtain permission from the copyright
holder. If such permission is granted, such distribution shall be allowed
only if this guide is distributed in its entirety and that all copyright
notices and disclaimers are included. The guide is provided as is without
any express or implied warranty.
While some medical consultants indicate that there are positive benefits
from drinking wine, alcoholic beverages are known to cause severe medical
conditions in people.
While all information in this guide is believed to be correct at the time
of writing, this guide is for entertainment purposes only and does not
purport to provide advice. If you require advice, look elsewhere. The
authors of this guide cannot accept any liability for any consequences
arising from the use of this guide or from the information contained in
this guide.
--
Wyszukiwarka
Podobne podstrony:
Story Wine Tasting A Guide to Wine Tasting EventsArticle Red Wine A Guide to Red WineAsperger s Disorder A Medical Dictionary, Bibliography, And Annotated Research Guide To Internet RefGuide to Animal TrackingA Practical Guide to Marketing ContentGuide to Selection and Use of DisinfectantsProlog Guide to Prolog ProgrammingGUIDE Compact Wine Coolers for Wine that Taste GreatBusiness Summaries Rich Dad s Guide To Investing (Robert Kiyosaki & Sharon L Lechter)Audio Scripts Guide to WritingA quick guide to creating memorable non player characterswięcej podobnych podstron