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Tech Tips Index > Suzuki King Quad
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450/700/750
Oil Pressure Light Installation - 450/700/750
by Dr Z, 2008 07 27
Here is how you can install an oil pressure gauge on a 450 courtesy of Cohocarl.
The 700 is different than the 450 in that it only has one oil hole and it is really close to the air inlet for the clutch. My install pictures for the
700/750 follow the 450 ones.
"I looked up the parts diagrams for the Arctic Cat 400 that looks like it uses the same crankcases as the KQ 450, and the A.C. has a pressure switch
installed in the oil gallery bolt circled in the pic below. So I thought I'd just go to an A.C. dealer and pick myself up one of the pressure switches they
use....until I heard the price. Around $90 for just the switch. I went to an auto parts store and they had a book with the specs of oil pressure switches
and most are 1/8" NPT threaded, and the oil bolt on the 450 is 8m 1.25 threads. I FINALLY tracked down a place that I could order an 8m 1.25 male to
1/8" NPT female adapter, so I ordered 4 of them, and picked up a normally closed 1/8 NPT threaded oil pressure switch that opens the switch between
3-5 PSI.
Picked up a red L.E.D. at Radio Shack that already has a bezel mount and resistor built in intended for 12V operation which I mounted in the gauge
pod. Seems to work fine.:) I had just installed a voltmeter by the 12v outlet, and had wired it off of the outlet leads with a 5amp fuse, so I used that as
the power source for the LED.
I did have a temporary problem that could have been a nightmare though.... When I threaded the first M8 1.25 adapter into the block, I used one of the
fiber washers that came with the adapters, went to tighten it down a little, and all of a sudden it started to turn real easy and I tought...oh S*^*, I've
ripped the threads out of my block. But the adapter snapped off right at the end of the threads, leaving the male end pretty much flush with the block. I
took a couple deep breaths, and thought I would run into town and get some "e-z outs" and try to get the rest of the adapter out of the block and hope it
didn't damage the threads. But I put my finger on it and gave it turn and it was easy to turn, so I took a Phillips screwdriver and put it in the end of it
and it came right out. I didn't torque the hell out it before it snapped off, so I'm wondering if the adapter was already cracked, or I also noticed that
where the threads end, they taper up just a little, so also what could have happened was when the fiber washer compressed, and when the beveled
area met the block, it could have "popped" off the end of the adapter. Not sure. So I happened to have an assortment of copper washers and found a
rather thick one that was considerably thicker than the fiber washer so the tapered area would not come in contact with the block if that is what
happened.
On my 2nd attempt, I first wrapped a little Teflon tape on the threads of the switch and tightened that into the adapter first. Then I put just a dab of blue
loctite on about the last 1/2 of the threads on the adapter and screwed it into the block. Snuggly, but not any more torque than I felt it needed. Fired it
up and everything seems to be oil tight and working fine."
Here's a link to a video I made on Youtube: Oil light
1 z 6 2011-02-01 20:23
Nyroc's ATV info website http://www.nyrocatv.com/techtip.cgi?viewtopic=469
Here's a pic of the adapter and switch before it was installed in the quad.
Pic of the switch with part number & brand.
2 z 6 2011-02-01 20:23
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Pic of it switch assembly installed on block.
Pic of the LED installed. Key was on, but quad not running so the light was on. The flash kind of washed out the LED. It's not a 55w driving light, but it's
about as bright as the other LED's in the gauge pod. See the video link in the 1st post to see the relative brightness.
3 z 6 2011-02-01 20:23
Nyroc's ATV info website http://www.nyrocatv.com/techtip.cgi?viewtopic=469
Here is the install on a 700/750.
Ker750 used NAPA part # OP6125 (Borg Warner # BWD S4000) which opens at 2 4 PSI and found he still got the LED to flicker at idle on the 750. He
has since went to the NAPA # OP6115 (BWD # S4018) which opens at .5 2 PSI and there is no flicker at idle. This is the one I decided to go to on my
700 since I got the flicker with a 3 7 PSI switch when the engine was up to full temp. Glenlivet installed the BWD S4000 and did not get the flicker at idle
on his 700. (edit: It does flicker at idle. G/L)
I would say use the lower PSI one if you want to be sure, but the 2 4 PSI switch should work unless your oil pressure is too low at idle.
Edit. I find that I like it when the light flickers at idle, a little more when the motor is right up to operating temperature.
It tells me that the idiot light circuit is working properly and the wiring is intact, as the light would not work at all if the wire had come off during ATV
operation, and I could potentially have no oil pressure and never know it! The idle flicker reassures me that everything is intact and I have the right
pressure.
Glenlivet
My dad used his drill press to drill a hole in an extra M8 1.25 bolt I had. (You can use the one in the quad but oil will very slowly drip out unless you
raise the front of the quad.) He then used a torch and a brazing rod to connect the adapter fitting I found. I was originally going to grind down and re
thread the fitting but we did not have access to the right tools. There is a thin copper washer on the bolt. Be sure to put that back on the bolt. If you buy
or re thread a fitting, make sure you use a washer there also. The LED that I bought is shown also.
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Singlemalt had this issue finding an adapter fitting the right size.
"I put one on my '07 450 however the M8 1.25 x 1/8 NPT adapter as found in tech tips was impossible to find in this part of Canada. I did find an
adapter M10 1.25 X 1/8 NPT with a lot of material around the hole and was able to remove some of the metal then re-thread it to M8 1.25. I think it
works better than the one in tech tips which has a tapered shoulder as the thread is at 90 degrees to the shoulder and gives better support when
screwed into the engine block. You cannot cut the thread all the way to the bottom so in addition to the copper crush washer that the adapter came
with, I also used two copper washers from brake line fittings as spacers."
Here is the sending unit installed on my 700. I did go back and slap some liquid electrical tape on the connections and sending unit to seal it. I carry a
spare M8x1.25 bolt I had just in case I need to plug the hole if the sending unit breaks off.
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This picture shows the original 3 7 PSI switch I used that made the LED flicker at idle when the engine warmed up. I have since swapped it out for the
.5 2 PSI switch which is shorter than this one. Clearance is still fine with it.
I connected the red wire from the LED to a key on hot wire. The black wire from the LED goes to the sending unit. Here is a picture of the key on and
then running. It only takes about a second or two for the light to go out.
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