ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS
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http://www.woodonline.com
It s a Keeper
Neat, orderly
Neat, orderly
storage for your
storage for your
WOOD®magazines
WOOD® magazines
Do you keep back issues of WOOD magazine for reference? And, if you haven t
noticed, starting with issue 153 WOOD magazine not only got thicker, but wider and
taller. To house both the past issues of WOOD magazine and the newly upsized
version, build these handsome and handy magazine file boxes. These boxes are as
good looking as they are durable, and they re dimensioned to fit both sizes of
magazines. Included with the box designs are the box-joint jig plan and procedure to
machine this strong and decorative joinery.
DP-00332 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 1998
Page 1 of 12
NOTE: Rip parts A, B, and C to final
width after cutting box joints.
Saw off corner after assembly.
4fi"
2fi"
11Å„" for issues
1-152, small box
11fl" for issues
153 on, large box
A
11Å„" for issues
C
1-152, small box
11fl" for issues
4"
153 on, large box
B
D
A
3R
"
Brass
8fl"
card pull
4"
9 " box joints
on all corners
9Å„"
2fi"
#6 x : " F.H.
brass wood screw
1 EXPLODED VIEW
Viewed from backside
TM
Page 2 of 12
Materials List, Small Box
FINISHED SIZE
Part T W L Matl. Qty.
A* sides 9 " 11Å„" 9Å„" M 2
B* back 9 " 11Å„" 4fi" M 1
C*front 9 " 4" 4fi" M 1
D bottom fi" 4" 8fl" M 1
*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
Material key: M mahogany.
Supplies: Drawer pull with card holder, semigloss clear
lacquer.
Sources:
Card pull: Solid brass card pull, no. 70763, $9.49 each.
Call Rockler, 800/279-4441, or go to rockler.com.
Materials List, Large Box
FINISHED SIZE
Part T W L Matl. Qty.
A* sides 9 " 11fl" 9Å„" M 2
B* back 9 " 11fl" 4fi" M 1
C*front 9 " 4" 4fi" M 1
D bottom fi" 4" 8fl" M 1
*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
Material key: M mahogany.
Supplies: Drawer pull with card holder, semigloss clear
lacquer.
Sources:
Card pull: Solid brass card pull, no. 70763, $9.49 each.
Call Rockler, 800/279-4441, or go to rockler.com.
Page 3 of 12
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Rustle up some thin stock wider if necssary to avoid cutting
The magazine file calls for 9 "- through a finger.) Cut the front
thick stock 11fi" wide for the (C) to the same width as A and B,
small box, or 12" wide for the but not to the finished width
large box. You could construct shown. Sand the inside faces.
the file of plywood. But if you
want to use solid mahogany as Build the box, cut a corner
we did, here s how. 1 From scrapwood, cut four
1 Joint one edge of a ! × 6× 30" clamping cauls, two that measure
piece of mahogany. Resaw it into ! × 7! × 119 " and two that are
two : "-thick pieces. ! × 2! × 119 " for the small box or
2 Edge-glue the two resulting two that measure ! × 7! × 12" and
pieces along the jointed edges, two that are ! × 2! × 12" for the
both sawn surfaces facing up. large box.
(This is called book-matching.) 2 Cut the bottom (D) to the
3 Plane the book-matched stock dimensions shown in the
to 9 " thick. Plane several pieces Materials List. Dry-assemble parts
of scrapwood to the same A, B, C, and D to check fit.
thickness for setting up the box- 3 Apply white glue to the inside
joint jig later. edges of each joint finger, using a
4 Rip the piece to 11fi" for the small brush. (White glue s longer
small box, or 12" for the large open time allows you to glue and
box. Refer to the Materials List, assemble all the joints before it
and cut parts A, B, and C to starts to dry.) Apply glue along the
finished length plus  ". (The edges and ends of the bottom.
extra length allows you to make 4 Assemble the file box. Position
the joint fingers Î" longer. You the clamping cauls on the sides
then can sand the joints flush and ends, and clamp the assembly
after assembly.) Leave the parts with band clamps. (We used
overwidth for now. Mark a three.) Ensure that the bottom is
bottom edge on each piece. flush and the joints are tight.
Clamp until the glue dries. Sand
Tackle the box joints next the joints flush.
1 Refer to the article beginning on 5 Lay out the angled cutting line
page 5 for instructions on building on one side of the file box.
and using our box-joint jig. Bandsaw the angle, cutting with a
2 Install a 9 " dado blade on your fine-toothed blade. (To minimize
tablesaw. Adjust the saw s cutting chip-out, apply wide masking tape
depth to Ç". along the cutting line on the
3 Install the jig s 9 " indexing pin. inside of the side that will be up
(If you re cutting the box joints when you saw and the outside of
with another type of jig, install it the one that will be on the
and set it up for 9 " fingers Ç" bottom.) Plane or sand the sawn
long, following applicable edge smooth and straight.
instructions.) 6 Finish-sand the box, using
4 Saw fingers in two pieces of progressively finer sandpaper
scrapwood, and test the joint for from 150- to 320-grit. Sand
fit. Adjust and retest as necessary. slight round-overs on the
5 With the jig properly adjusted, opening s edges.
Produced by Marlen Kemmet
saw fingers on both ends of parts 7 Apply a clear finish. (We Written by Marlen Kemmet
Project design: Gary Webster
A, B, and C, starting with a finger sprayed on several coats of
Graphic design: Lorna Johnson
at the bottom of each side (A) and semigloss lacquer, sanding
Illustrations: Kim Downing; Lorna Johnson
mating fingers on parts B and C. between coats.)
Photographs: Marty Baldwin
6 Rip the sides (A) and back (B) to 8 Attach a brass file handle where
©Copyright Meredith Corporation 1998
finished width, sawing the waste shown. Poke screw pilot holes
The purchase of these plans does not
off the top edge. (For appearance, with an awl. (We installed a brass
transfer any copyright or other ownership
you could make the parts slightly card holder with pull.)ż
interest in the plans, the design, or the
finished project to the buyer. Buyer may
neither reproduce the plans for sale nor offer
for sale any copies of the finished project.
Page 4 of 12
TM
I ve always liked box
I ve always liked box
joints, and here s why.
joints, and here s why.
They offer both strength
They offer both strength
and unique good looks.
and unique good looks.
Although not as refined
Although not as refined
as dovetail joints, they
as dovetail joints, they
can be cut on a tablesaw
can be cut on a tablesaw
or router table using a
or router table using a
simple shop-built jig. Not
simple shop-built jig. Not
only that, but I can use a
only that, but I can use a
box-joint jig on virtually
box-joint jig on virtually
any width or thickness of
any width or thickness of
stock. Our jig combines
stock. Our jig combines
simplicity of construction
simplicity of construction
with micro-adjustability.
with micro-adjustability.
Interchangeable indexing
Interchangeable indexing
pins allow you to cut box
pins allow you to cut box
joints of any size without
joints of any size without
having to build a different
having to build a different
jig each time.
jig each time.
View from
back side of jig
Jan Hale Svec
Jan Hale Svec
Assistant Design Editor
Assistant Design Editor
Page 5 of 12
TM
A
7
/64" pilot hole
1
1
/2" deep
/8" round-overs
Knob
#8 x 11/4" F.H. wood screws
E 3
/8" flat washer
I
Indexing blocks stack on top of each
F other, and store on the back side of jig.
3
/8" carriage bolt 41/2" long
H
11/4"
13
/32" hole
C
G
51/2"
21/2"
7
/64" pilot hole D
26"
1
/2" deep
A
5
/32" hole,
countersunk
#8 x 11/4" F.H.
wood screw
7
/16" slot
51/2"
21/8" long
#8 x 11/4" F.H.
7
/32" hole,
wood screws
countersunk
B
21/8"
13/4" dado
1
/4" deep
I
*
13/4"
5
/32" hole,
3
/4" notch 31/2" long
countersunk 10-24 F.H. machine screw
on bottom side 1" long with mating washer and nut
* groove
3
/8" deep
13
/32" hole
*Actual thickness of 3/4" plywood
3
/8" carriage bolt
3" long
#8 x 3/4" F.H.
wood screws
EXPLODED VIEW
21/4"
Miter-gauge guides J
Double-faced tape
Let s start with 3 Measure the exact thickness lines on the back side of the
the fence assembly of your plywood, and cut a fence for positioning the handle
1 Cut the jig fence (A) to the size groove along the back side of onto the fence later.
listed in the Bill of Materials and the fence (A) where shown on 5 Cut the backing plate (B) to
shown on the Parts View the Parts View and Exploded size. The backing plate is used
drawing on page 9. (Due to its View drawings. The groove to minimize chipout when
stability, strength, and lack of should be as wide as your using the jig. You ll need one
voids we used ! " [18mm actual] plywood is thick. And, the backing plate for each size of
Baltic birch plywood.) groove should be up from the finger joint you ll be cutting.
2 Mark the location, and cut the bottom edge of your plywood a The plate should fit snug, yet
! × 3fi" notch along the bottom of distance equal to the thickness slide in the 1! " dado in the
the fence (A) where dimensioned of your plywood. front face of the fence. Drill a
on the Parts View drawing. Then, 4 Mark the centerpoint, and drill Û" mounting hole through the
mark the location, and cut the 1! " and countersink a ¸" hole backing plate and into the
dado 9 " deep in the front face of the through the fence for attaching fence. Screw the plate to the
fence. the handle (E) later. Mark light fence.
Page 6 of 12
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3
/8" flat washer
Plastic knob
3
/8" hole
21/2"
ADJUSTMENT ASSEMBLY
H
10-32 threaded insert
3
/4"
11/4"
21/4"
#10 lock nut
and flat washer
1
/2"
7
/32" hole
81/4"
2" deep
1"
9
/32" hole 1/2" deep
11/4"
G 1
/4" dado
7 1
/32" hole /2" notch
1
21/2"
/4" deep
1
/4" deep
(sized to fit
indexing pin)
I
#10 flat washer
1
/2"
1"
11/4"
11/2"
11/4"
10-32 all-thread rod
Indexing pin
1
/2"
4" long
(key stock)
#10 lock nut
1
/4 x 1/4 x 41/2"
13
/32" hole long (Make
different sizes
Plastic knob with #10 threads
as required for
inside knob. Epoxy the knob 1" counterbore 1/4" deep
box joints.)
to the all-thread rod.
3
41/2"
/8" carriage bolt 3" long
Add the base pattern on page 10 to your adjustment block (G) where
assembly for stability stock, and cut the handle to shown on the Parts View
1 Cut the plywood jig base (C) to shape. Rout Å„" round-overs on the drawing. Then, drill a Û" hole
the size listed in the Bill of handle where noted on the through the center of the
Materials and dimensioned on Exploded View drawing. Drill a notch. Glue the block to the
the Parts View drawing. mounting hole through the bottom base (C), flush with the back
2 Mark the location and cut the of the base (C), and glue and screw face of the fence (A) and flush
Á" slot in the base where shown the handle to parts A and C. with the end of the base where
on the Parts View. Then, mark shown on the pattern.
the centerpoint, and drill the For perfectly placed fingers, 3 Drill the holes in the index
Â" hole through the base. add the adjustment block slide (H) where shown on the
3 Cut the base support (D) to Note: The distance between the Adjustment Assembly drawing
size. Using the dimensions on dado blade and the indexing and pattern insert. Drive a 10-32
the Parts View, locate the hole pin has to be equal to the width threaded into the Ç"
centerpoints, and drill the five of the slot the dado blade will counterbore, centered in the
countersunk holes in the cut. This will ensure that the end of the index slide.
support. With the back edges fingers and notches are exactly 4 Using the index slide (H) and
and ends flush, glue and screw the same size and that the adjustment block (G) as spacers,
D to C. Make sure the mating pieces fit together screw the adjustment block guide
screwheads don t protrude correctly. The adjustment block (F) in place. The index slide
below the support and scratch assembly allows you to adjust should slide between the guide
your tablesaw top later. the distance between the blade and fence (A) without slop.
4 Glue the fence (A) to the and indexing pin to achieve a 5 Secure the adjustment block
front edge of the base (C), perfect fit of the box joints. (G) and index slide (H) together
keeping the ends flush. Check with a 10-32 all-thread rod 4"
that the fence is square to the 1 Cut the adjustment block long, locknuts, washers, and a
base. This is important for guide (F), adjustment block (G), plastic knob in the configuration
accurate cuts later. and index slide (H) to size. shown on the Adjustment
5 Transfer the full-size handle (E) 2 Cut the fi" notch in the Assembly and Parts View drawings.
Page 7 of 12
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POSITIONING THE MITER-GAUGE GUIDES
Center the jig so the
13/4"
backing plate centers
over the saw blade.
Backing plate
B
A
Fence
J
90°
Miter-gauge guides
Saw
blade
Let s form the indexing blocks Å„" and 9 " pins and Baltic birch to each guide starting at the line
for different sized fingers plywood for the fi" and ! " pins. just marked. See the Exploded
1 Cut the indexing blocks (I) to 5 Secure an indexing block (I) to View drawing for reference.
size. Cut extras depending on the bottom side of the base with 3 As shown in the drawing
how many sizes of box joints you a 3"-long carriage bolt as shown above, position the jig assembly
wish to cut. We recommend four on the Exploded View drawing. onto the guides, being careful to
(Å„", 9 ", fi", and ! "). Drill a Â" When the index blocks are not keep the jig square to the blade.
hole with a 1" counterbore 9 " being used, you can secure them Press down firmly to adhere the
deep on the bottom side of each to the top side of the base where tape-covered guides to the
block where located on the shown on the same drawing. bottom of the jig assembly.
Adjustment Assembly drawing. Attach the miter-gauge 4 Turn the base assembly over,
2 For a 9 "-wide index pin, fit guides, and add the finish and drill and countersink six
your tablesaw with a 9 "-wide 1 Cut the miter-gauge guides (J) mounting holes through the
dado blade, and cut a 9 " dado 9 " to size according to the width guides and into the bottom of
deep located fi" in from the end and depth of the miter-gauge the jig base (C). Leaving the
of the index block. Be careful to slots in your tablesaw. The double-faced tape between the
keep the dado perpendicular to thickness should be  " less than guides and base, screw the
the front edge of the indexing the depth of your miter-gauge guides to the base bottom with
block. where shown on the slots. Test-fit the miter-gauge #8× ! " flathead wood screws.
Adjustment Assembly drawing. guides in the tablesaw slots. 5 Remove the hardware, then
3 From 9 " key stock, crosscut Then, using thin strips of plastic finish-sand all the wood pieces.
an index bar 4fi" long, and or wood, shim the guides in the Apply a clear finish to the parts
epoxy it into the 9 "-wide dado, miter-gauge slots so the top to seal the parts and keep them
keeping the back end of the key surface of each guide protrudes clean over time. Reattach the
stock flush with the back edge of just above the surface of your hardware and reassemble the jig.
the indexing block. tablesaw. Doing this keeps the 6 If you used solid stock for the
4 Repeat steps 2 and 3, keeping bottom surface of the jig from miter-gauge guides (J), apply a
the dadoes fi" from the end for rubbing on the tablesaw top. bit of paraffin wax to the sides
the other sizes of indexing pins. 2 Mark a line on each guide 29 " and bottom of the two guides for
We used metal key stock (used to from the back end. Then, adhere a easier sliding of the guides in the
secure pulleys to spindles) for the 5"-long piece of double-faced tape tablesaw miter-gauge grooves.
Page 8 of 12
TM
3
/8"
125/8"
13/4"
13/4" dado 1/4" deep
2"
Handle E location
A
7
/32" hole, countersunk
51/2"
5
/32" hole, countersunk
PARTS VIEW 3
/4"
*
*
151/2"
7" 31/2"
26"
FENCE
* groove 3/8" deep along back side of fence
*Actual thickness
of 3/4" plywood
1" 6" 6" 6" 6" 1"
21/8" D
11/16"
26"
BASE SUPPORT
5
/32" holes, countersunk
on bottom side
3 3
/4" /4"
J
23/4" 11/4" 33/8"
41/2" 41/2" 3
/8"
5
/8"
F
11/4"
10"
101/2"
Note: Size width and thickness to fit
5
miter-gauge slots on your tablesaw.
/32" holes, countersunk on bottom side
GUIDE
MITER-GAUGE GUIDE
7
/32" hole
7
/32" hole
2" deep
G
21/2" 1 H
/2"
9
11/4" /32" hole
3
1"
/8" hole
1
/2" deep
21/4"
11/2" 1 81/4"
/4"
ADJUSTMENT INDEX SLIDE
BLOCK
3
/4"
101/2"
125/8"
4"
Location of F
21/8" 25/8"
3
/8" hole
C
5"
11/4"
21/2"
Location of E
27/8"
15/8" 111/16"
33/8" 21/8" 5
/32" hole, countersunk on bottom
Location of G
26"
7
/16" slot 21/8" long Location of A
BASE
(TOP VIEW)
Page 9 of 12
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To ensure full-size patterns are correct
size, your printer should be set to print
at 100% (not fit to page). Measure
full-size patterns to verify size.
fi 1"
9 !
FULL-SIZE HANDLE PATTERN
1
/8" round-overs
4"
E
HANDLE
7
/64" pilot hole
1
/2" deep
45/8"
Page 10 of 12
TM
Bill of Materials
Finished Size
Part
T W L
A fence ! " 5fi" 26" BP 1
CUTTING DIAGRAM
B backing
plates 9 " 1! " 5fi" HB 4
C base ! " 5" 26" BP 1
D support ! " 2Å„" 26" BP 1
I
E handle ! " 4" 4fl" BP 1 G H I
F guide ! " 19 " 10fi" BP 1
G adjustment
block ! " 2fi" 1fi" BP 1
H index
slide ! " 2fi" 89 " BP 1
D
I indexing
C
blocks ! " 2fi" 5! " BP 4
E
J miter-gauge
guides : " ! " 10" B 2
F
A
Materials Key: BP birch plywood,
HB hardboard, B birch
Supplies: #8× ! " flathead wood screws, #8× 19 " 3
/4 x 24 x 48" Baltic birch plywood
flathead wood screws, : " carriage bolt 3" long
*
with a flat washer and plastic knob; 10-32 all-
B B J
thread rod 4" long with two locknuts, two flat
washers, 10-32 threaded insert, and mating knob;
: " carriage bolt 4fi" long with a flat washer and
plastic knob; 10-24 flathead machine screw 1"
1
1
long with mating flat washer and nut; key stock; /4 x 31/2 x 24" Hardboard
/2 x 31/2 x 24" Birch
clear finish.
*Plane or resaw to thickness
Sources
listed in the Bill of Materials.
Hardware kit. All the hardware listed in the
Supplies listing above. WOOD KIT BJJ1, $17.95
plus $3.95 shipping. Schlabaugh and Sons
Woodworking, 720 14th Street, Kalona, IA 52247
or call 800/346-9663 to order.
Easy-to-assemble kit. All the pieces listed in the
hardware kit above, plus all the Baltic birch
plywood and solid-birch pieces cut to the size
listed in the Bill of Materials. WOOD KIT BJJ2,
$79.95, plus $8.50 shipping. Schlabaugh and
Sons Woodworking, 720 14th Street, Kalona, IA
52247 or call 800/346-9663 to order. Or e-mail at
[e-mail]
Produced by Marlen Kemmet
Project design: Jan Svec
Graphic design: Lorna Johnson
Illustrations: Kim Downing
Photographs: John Hetherington
©Copyright Meredith Corporation 1998
The purchase of these plans does not
transfer any copyright or other ownership
interest in the plans, the design, or the
finished project to the buyer. Buyer may
neither reproduce the plans for sale nor offer
for sale any copies of the finished project.
Page 11 of 12
TM
Qty.
Matl.
How to make your
box-joint jig do its thing
your stock against the pin, and Test-fit the two pieces
make the first cut. Position the together. Chances are you ll
Adjust or shim the dado blade to notch just cut onto the index pin, need to adjust the distance
the same thickness as the wood and make the second cut as shown between the blade and pin. If
being box-jointed. Raise the blade in photo C. Repeat until the piece the fit is too loose, turn the
to the same height as the thickness is completely cut across one end. knob clockwise to increase the
of the material being cut plus Î". For the mating piece, place the distance between the pin and
As shown in photo A, adjust the first test piece on the index pin so blade. If the fit is too tight, turn
distance between the blade and just one finger is on the blade side the knob counterclockwise to
indexing pin so the distance is of the pin. Position the second decrease the distance.
equal to the width of the blade. It piece firmly against the first piece, Test-cut scrap material until the
may be necessary to remove the and make the cut as shown in joints fit perfectly. With the
backing plate (B), and notch it to photo D. Remove the first piece, index pin properly located, lock
get the pin close enough to the and make the cuts along the end of the index slide in place with the
blade. As shown in photo B, slide the second piece. large plastic knob.ż
A
B
C
D
Page 12 of 12
TM