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Collars and cuffs, Fig 14

Guide to the construction of collars on tailored garments, mainly doublets and gowns. Those for linens are included with the garment.

A tailored collar consists of three layers: under collar, interlining and upper collar (facing). Collars are either standing or lie fiat.

•    The under collar is attached to or is a continuation of the garment's outer fabric, and is normally cut from the same fabric. The under collar is visible on a standing collar.

•    The interlining is sewn to the wrong side of the under collar before making up, and may be in morę than one layer.

• The facing (upper collar) completes the collar. It may match the garment's outer fabric or lining, or be in a contrasting fabric. It is the visible part of a fiat collar, but is the inside on a standing collar.

The neck edge is sewn to the neck of the garment. The outer or top edge is the free edge of the collar.

Tack the interlining to the under collar pieces and make up the under collar. Sew the under collar to the neck edge of the garment; trim off the seam allowances from the interlining up to the seam lines.

Make up the facing and pin it in place,

14. Making up collars

a. 2-piece collars (Doublets, Fig 4; Gowns, Fig 4; Children, Fig 7). See also Gowns, Fig 13)

Round collars - Sew the bodice CB and shoulder seams. Sew together the interlined under-collar pieces at CB. Attach the under-collar to the garment matching CB, CF and any balance marks. Tack and stitch the collar to the neckline, taking care to ease the curves. Complete with the facing

Collars with a V-back - It is easier to start by joining the garment backs and fronts at their shoulder edges, then sew each interlined collar half to the bodice neck edges before sewing the collar CB seam. Take care to match the seams, then add the lining.

b.    3-piece collars {Gowns, Figs 24, 28). For Fig 24, where the front under collars are part of the gown Front, first sew the bodice CB seam, then sew the back under collar to the back neck edge. Join the Backs and Fronts at the shoulders, including the back and front collar ends. If the lining fabric is used for facing, make it up as for the outer fabric. When inserting the lining, tack round the neck and finish the CF edges and collar in one.

Gowns, Fig 28 is a different 3-piece collar. Make it up as described in its caption.

c.    4-piece collars (Doublets, Fig 6; Gowns, Fig 12). If these have a V-back, set them on like a 2-piece collar. Join the shoulder seams of the garment, and the side seams of the under collar. Sew each half under collar to the garment neck edge before sewing the CB seam of bodice and collar in one.

For high collars needing extra interlining, add this before attaching the facing.

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