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cut away to show the doublet collar as well. Even the earliest men's gowns were usually belted and the belt was worn at waist height. Men in gowns usually wore a bag-hat or chaperon (Mens hoods, Figs 4-6) rather than a caped hood.

Women's gowns

Significant changes occurred to the gown in the 15th century, which can be seen in the neck opening, the sleeves and the shaping of the waist (Figs 3, 22, 23). The collar became lower and the neck opening deeper and wider. The bodice and sleeves became morę fitted, and the fullness moved downwards to the hips (Fig 23).

The popular image of the 15th-century lady's dress is a high-waisted, V-necked gown topped with a huge head-dress (Fig 22). This image, from about 1460, reflects just one stage in the development of the gown from an ample belted garment to a figure-hugging one.

Plain gowns, cut like the early gowns, continued to be worn by the less affluent, but also by older women of all classes. These retained fairly high necklines and loose sleeves for most of the century.

By the early 15th century most women above peasant status probably owned a gown. A lady or rich merchant's wife might have worn them regularly, but a craft worker would have worked in a kirtle (Pl 16) and kept her gown for best. Related garments - The gown was worn over a kirtle, which in its fashionable early form had long mitten cuffs buttoned to the knuckles (Kirtles, Fig 2). The kirtle skirt could be seen when the gown was lifted for walking. While a plainer gown could be slipped on over the day-to-day kirtle, the morę fitted shapes from 1450 reąuired a carefully fitted kirtle to match.

With the deeper V-neck a stomacher might be used. This can be a nice bit of silk or scarlet cloth, mounted on a lining and pinned to the kirtle (Methods, Fig 15).

The neckline of the gown was often filled in with a fine linen or gauze scarf, tucked in at the back with its ends drawn forwards to form an inner V-neckline (Fig 22; Pl 11).

A belt was worn above the natural waist. For much of the period it was 5 cm or morę wide, worn high under the bust, often with the buckie at the back (Fig 22; Accessories, Fig 2). In the later 15th century the waistline dropped to its natural level, and a much narrower belt was worn loosely on the hips (Fig 23).

Head-wear - The high collar of the early gown affected the style of head-wear: the frilled veil was replaced with a caul or templers (Fashionable head-dresses, Figs 5, 6, 9). A frilled veil, or possibly smali side buns or templers might be worn with a plain early gown (Fig 4), and an elaborate caul with the gown in Fig 12.

The 15th century was the era of the dramatic head-dress and as with the gowns themselves, different head-dresses were in use at the same time (Fig 22; Fashionable head-dresses, Figs 11, 13, 15). A horned head-dress might be worn with Fig 24, and a butterfly or late form of black hood with Fig 28.

Early gowns

Early buttoned gown

Men's short gowns

Fashionable gown

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