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Glossary

Since many garments probably had morę than one name, and names have changed or altered in meaning over the centuries, historie terms in this glossary reflect the interpretations used in the book.

Acom cap - Men's tali cloth or felt cap (Men's hats and caps, Fig 6)

Aglet - Metal tag attached to the ends of points and lacing cords (Methods, Fig 18).

Bag-hat - Men's simple cloth hat developed front the hood (Mens boods, Fig 5).

Bag slceve - Large gown sleeve with tight wrist, also 'poky' or 'bagpipe' sleeve (Gowns, Fig 11). Barbette - Band of linen, straight or shaped, passed under the chin and secured over the crown. Worn by wonten with a hair net or filier [Fashiottable bead-dresses, Fig 4).

Bias - Linę at 45 degrees to the warp and weft of the materiał.

Błock - Personal pattern fitting an individual.

Used to develop working patterns for fitted garments for tltat individual.

Bodice, body - Part of a garment or pattern fitting the body from neck to waist.

Braies - Men's linen drawers (Braies, Figs 1, 2, 4). Breech - Upper portion of joined hose, fitting round the lower body.

Breech clout - Piece of linen wrapped as underwear, forerunner of braies.

Breech girdle - Cord or strip of fabric or tape holding up the braies.

Broadcloth - High ąuality woollen fabric distinguished by its dense, even surface; sec Materials.

Brocade - Woven fabric, usually silk, with a raised pattern in added threads.

Burlet - See chapcron.

Butterfly head-dress - Elaborate head-wear based on a cap with wired veil (Fashionable bead-dresses, Fig 16).

Caul - Wonian's silk cap covered with a network of braid (Fashionable bead-dresses, Fig 6). Chapcron - Men's hat which evolved from the hood (PI 19; Mens boods, Fig 6), also called burlet.

Clout - Cloth; baby's diaper or man's basie underwear.

Coat - Outer working garment for men, sometimescalled jerkin, see Mens outer working garments.

Codpiece - Bag-shaped attachment covering and supporting the genitals on joined hose (Hose, Figli).

Coif- Close-fitting cap, usually of linen, worn by men, babies and infants (Mens hats and caps. Fig 5).

Dagging - Decorative edging of garments (Methods, Fig 24).

Damask - Weave producing a figured design on a fabric of single colour.

Ease - Allowance in a garment over the actual body size for movement or fitting, e.g. the extra length of a sleeve head over the armhole it is set into.

Felt - Fabric madę by pressing matted wool or other fibres together. Commonly used for hats; sometimes for footwear and other garments.

Fillet - Band of linen or velvet worn round the head to support women's head-dress, or as decoration (I.inen bead-dresses, Fig 3; Fashionable bead-dresses, Figs 4, 12).

Fitchet - Vertical slit in an outer garment giving access to purse or girdle.

Fitting linę - Position of the stitching or finished edge on a pattern or garment piece: the cutting linę lies outside it with the seam allowance in between.

'Flowerpot' style - Truncated hennin head-dress, a Burgundian fashion (Fashionable bead-dresses,

Fig 15b).

Frilled veil - See Fashionable bead-dresses, Fig 5. Frock - Here a loose outer working garment (Men's outer working garments, Figs 1&2). Frontlet - Band of stiffened fabric, usually black velvet, part of a woman's head-dress (Cloth bead-dresses and boods. Fig 4a; Fashionable bead-dresses, Fig 15b).

Fustian - Napped fabric of cotton or cotton and linen, used particularly for doublets.

Garter - Band of braid or fabric used by men and women to support separate hose, and as leg decoration.

Goffered veil - Frilled veil (Fashionable bead-dresses, Fig 5).

Gore - Triangular piece of fabric inserted to widen or shape a garment (Cotes, Fig 4).

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