58608 tmta 8

6

20 cm

6. Caul, late 14th to early 15th century

A made-up cap, consisting of an inner linen layer covered in silk and decorated with a lattice of fine braid. The lattice work was often held down at intersections with a pearl or other smali ornament. The edge was bordered and decorated, especially across the forehead. It can be worn alone, or with a padded roli; a veil may be worn draped at the back, except with very high collars.

7. Pattern for Fig 6

a.    The madę up cap. The centre section runs from forehead to napę with two side pieces. The sides are enlarged at the front and pleated onto a tape to give firm pockets which fit over the plaits.

b.    Pattern. Scalę up the pattern and try out a toile for fit. Mark the edges as a guide for setting the pleats which will form the pockets at the front.

Cut out the pieces in a firm linen or calico for the inner layer, and in a good plain-coloured silk for the covering fabric.

Make up each layer separately. Start with the inner layer. Join the sides to the centre section along AB of the linen or calico. Tum in the raw edges on the wrong side and stitch them to a tape all round, forming pleats where marked. Repeat for the outer, silk covering. Match the two layers; tack if you wish. Turn in the edges of the silk covering and stitch them to the edges of the inner layer (PI 1), forming pleats to fit.

Decorate with the lattice work in Fig 8.

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