128
Shoes and Pattens
*67 Adult’s boot. Sole: cattle. Upper: calf. Heel-stiffener: probably calf. TL 74 [275] <3278>, Group G15, c.1440.
*68 ChilcTs boot. Sole: cattle. Upper: calf. TL 74 [368] <1494), Group G15, c.1440.
*69 Adult’s ankle-shoe. Sole: cattle. Upper:
?deer/sheep/goat. TL 74 [275] <2005)
<2010-11>, Group G15, c.1440.
*70 Adult’s boot. Sole: cattle. Upper: calf. Lace-hole reinforcement: probably calf. TL 74 [275] <3324>, Group G15, c.1440.
71 Shoemakers at work (from Das Hausbuch der Mendelschen Zwólfbńiderstiftung zu Numberg).
a: Cutting out. Merdein Swob, dated 1459. (Drawn from Treue et al. 1965, Taf. 122)
b: Use of the awl. Hermann Schuhster, 1425. (ibid., Taf. 34)
c: Stitching. Niclas Altreuss (cobbler), 1425. (ibid., Taf. 259)
d: Trimming. ? Schuhster, 1432. (ibid., Taf. 260)
72 Turn-shoe construction without rand.
73 Turn-shoe construction with rand.
74 Turn-welt construction.
75 Binding-stitch.
76 ‘Poulaine’ sole, showing stitching at the toe. BC 72 [55] <1669), dock infill, 1375-1400.
77 Edge/flesh butt seam.
78 Overlapped seam.
79 Bevelled seam.
80 Butt seam with binding-stitch.
81 Shallow binding-stitch, securing reinforcement cord.
*82 Cutting pattern, early/mid 12th-century ?ankle-shoe. See Fig. 4.
*83 Cutting pattern, early/mid 12th-century ankle-shoe. See Fig. 5.
*84 Cutting pattern, early/mid 12th-century ankle-shoe. See Fig. 6.
*85 Cutting pattern, early/mid 12th-century embroidered ankle-shoe. See Fig. 7.
*86 Cutting pattern, early 12th-century embroidered ankle-shoe. See Fig. 8.
*87 Cutting pattern, late 12th-century boot. See Fig. 13.
*88 Cutting pattern, early 13th-century ankle-shoe. See Fig. 21.
*89 Cutting pattern, early 13th-century ankle-shoe. See Fig. 28.
*90 Cutting pattern, early 13th-century ankle-shoe. See Fig. 27.
*91 Cutting pattern, mid 13th-century ankle-shoe. See Fig. 33.
*92 Cutting pattern, late 13th-century ankle-shoe. See Fig. 32.
*93 Cutting pattern, late 13th-century boot. See Fig. 34.
*94 Cutting pattern, mid 14th-century shoe. See Fig.
36.
*95 Cutting pattern, mid 14th-century shoe. See Fig.
37.
*96 Cutting pattern, mid 14th-century boot. See Fig.
38.
*97 Cutting pattern, mid 14th-century boot. See Fig.
39.
*98 Cutting pattern, mid 14th-century shoe. See Fig.
52.
*99 Cutting pattern, late 14th-century shoe. See Fig.
53.
*100 Cutting pattern, late 14th-century ankle-shoe. See Fig. 55.
101 Cutting pattern, late 14th-century ankle-shoe.
BC 72 [150] <3772), dock infill, 1375-1400. *102 Cutting pattern, late 14th-century shoe. See Fig. 43.
*103 Cutting pattern, late 14th-century shoe. See Fig. 46.
*104 Cutting pattern, late 14th-century shoe. See Fig. 49.
*105 Cutting pattern, early 15th-century ankle-shoe. See Fig. 63.
*106 Cutting pattern, early 15th-century ankle-shoe. See Fig. 66.
*107 Cutting pattern, early 15th-century boot. See Fig. 67.
*108 Cutting pattern, early 15th-century boot. See Fig. 70.
109 Method used to fix buckie to strap.
110 Buckles and strap-end:
a: lead/tin alloy with iron pin. TL 74 [275] <2623), Group G15, c.1440.
b: lead/tin alloy with iron pin. TL 74 [368] <2608), Group G15, c.1440.