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Planning and cutting

The rangę of surcotes included here covers both sleeved (Figs 4, 5) and sleeveless (Figs 7-9) versions, from simple garments to morę elaborate fitted ones, for both men and women.

Plan the surcote as described for Cotes, p. 77. If you haven't already madę a cote, you will find morę details of the methods there. The open sided surcote (Fig 9) is based on the personal Błock, like the kirtle.

Refer to the Key measurements. Ensure that Garment width and Sleeve width will be an easy fit over the cote beneath. Most surcotes were ąuite ample, so if in doubt make it bigger.

Use the dimensions to make a sketch plan on paper of the pieces and layout, like Fig 4b. For a fuller surcote add morę width by putting in extra side gores. Plan the finał pattern pieces on paper, and lay them out on a single łayer of cloth, or on calico, which can be fitted and then used as a pattern.

You can adjust any dimension by 1 or 2 cm if it helps make a morę economical layout. Check the pattern dimensions match the plan before you cut, making surę you have enough length, ease and seam allowance. Cut out the pattern pieces as nearly as possible along the straight grain (Figs 4b, 5b).

To plan your garment use measurements already taken (Blocks, Figs 1, 2), or measure the wearer, but plan the surcote in Fig 9 from the personal bodice Błock. Fine broken lines indicate Fold lines and Centre lines of pattern pieces. Heavy broken lines indicate alternative outlines. Letters indicate joining points. For abbreviations and symbols see p. 10. Add seam allowances to all dimensions.

Key measurements Garment length

Men - shoulder to hem. Back length, + waist to knee, or waist to ankle, or in between Women - shoulder to hem. Back length, + waist to floor

For both - add a further 5 to 20 cm for pouching over a belt

Garment width - half Chest or Bust + 8 to 20 cm (or morę) ease

Gore length - From waist to hem: subtract Back length from Garment length.

Gore width - 25 cm is a good all-purpose width. The wider the gores, the wider the total hem, but adjust to fit your cloth.

Sleeve length - Arm length Sleeve width - 40-60 cm at the shoulder for normal adult sizes: sleeves with underarm gussets can be narrower than those without. Sleeve end - depends on style

Simple sleeveless surcote

Man’s sleeveless surcote

Women’s open surcote

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