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The ease of access to the mosąue and the generał manner in which they-were received caused Stoekdale to revise his view of the Turks :

‘Tn going round to the Mosąues & sights at Adrianople & indeed after inmost parts of our journey we found what is usually said of the bigotry & intoleranee of the Turks extremely exaggerated.— Twoi or three bovs saluting us with the appellation of Gawr but considering the difference of our dress & appearance there are few~ places in England where such singularities would pot have procured morę notice. — If we received no great marks of attention from the turks, we were troubled with little molestation but walked about where we pleased & we thought them less serupulous about their Churches than some Catholics.”42

The extreme heat and rigours of the journey, particularly the last four days from Adrianople to Constantinople, took its toll on the health of Morritt and Stoekdale. They reached the Tuikish Capital feeling extreme-ly unwell, Stoekdale suffering from sunstroke fiom which it took him several weeks to recover.43 Yet despite such hardships nonę of the travel-lers expressed the slightest regret for having undertaken so arduous a. tour. Before long they were planning excursions up the Bosphorus, explor-ing the sights of the city and arranging the next stage of their journey-This was to include a visit to the Troad, which was then a source of in-creasingly acrimonious debate between scholars disputing the whereabouts of ancient Troy.44

Lil<e all distinguished British travallers of the period, the party was hospitably entertained by their newly appointed ambassador at Constantinople, Eobert Liston (1742—1836). Among the members of the ambassador"s entourage was his private physician and chaplain, James Dallaway (1763—1834).46 This knowledgeable cleric lost no time in accepting an invitation to join Wilbraham, Morritt and Stoekdale on their projected excursion to the Troad. In many respects this was to be the most important and rewarding part of the whole journey; it was to establish their reputations as leading authorities on the antinuities of the region and launched Morritt and Dallaway to the forefront of the debate over Troy.

Writing to a friend, Dallaway expressed his delight at accompa-nying his fellow-countrymen on what he afterwards declared to be “the-most interesting Journey of my Life.”46 The feelings were mutual, for Morritt referred to Dallaway as ‘‘a very agreeable addition to our party,.

42    The MS. Diary of Robert Stoekdale.

43    Marindin, op. cit., pp. 72 and 81.

44    See : J. M. Cook, The Troad: An archaeologlcal and typographlcal study (Oxford,.

1973).

46 Trevor J. Hope, The Traocls of the Reo. James Dallaway in the Ottoman Empire : Some-unpublished correspondcnce with Robert Liston, #,Susscx Archaeologlcal Collectlonsn (1974), vol. CXII. PP- 9-14.

46 James Dallaway to Samuel Lysons, Tencdos [Bozcaada] 28 Nooember 1794 in Francis W. Steer, Memolr and Letters of James Dallaway, 1763—1834, “Sussex Archaeologlcal Collec-tions’' (1965), vol. CIII, pp. 8    11.



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