intermediate
enamel
metal clay
Peacock
cloisonné
Blue, aqua, and green enamel
fan out in this colorful pendant.
by Linda Bernstein
olor accomplishes amazing things. It can alter moods, change behaviors, and
cause chemical levels in the brain to shift. Certain colors have even been
Cfound to speed up human metabolism, increase respiration rate, and raise
blood pressure! Color surrounds us, and artists, of course, pay especially close
attention to this phenomenon.
Art Jewelry " September 2005 1
The colors in this cloisonné pendant closely resemble the lush collage of hues displayed by
a peacock parading before a peahen. The coloration in peacock feathers is not produced by
pigments, but by tiny crystal-like structures that reflect light.
Serendipitously, cloisonné a member of the enameling family employs a similar
technique. Powdered crystalline glass is placed in metal cells and fired, creating a stunning
play of light on the finished piece of jewelry.
Cloisonné can be done using traditional metalsmithing techniques by soldering wire to
sheet metal to create cells. Metal clay makes this process time-efficient by using metal-clay
syringe to  draw cells onto a piece of clay. Glass enamel is then applied in layers and fired
repeatedly for a brilliantly colored pendant.
[1] Design the pendant. Determine the shape, design,
and number of cells your pendant will have and make a
drawing of it to scale. Choose the colors you ll use and
assign each color a number. Write a number on each
cell in the drawing for color reference.
[2] Roll the clay and cut out the pendant s shape.
Roll out 16 20g of metal clay to a 6-card thickness on
1
parchment paper. Cut out your pendant shape with a
lightly oiled needle tool or craft knife. Remove the
excess clay and store it in an airtight container.
Make a hole. Use a cocktail straw to punch a hole in
the top of your pendant. Make the hole large enough to
accommodate a jump ring, and remember to account
for shrinkage during firing.
[3] Create cells. Add lines of syringe clay to the 2
pendant shape to form the cells. Add a line of syringe
clay to the perimeter of the piece if you want the cells
fully enclosed, as shown in the piece on page 1; or you
may leave the edges open, as shown in the process
photos. Dry the piece completely.
Refine and finish. Refine the edges of the bone-dry
pendant using your favorite sanding techniques. The
3
pendant shown was sanded with an emery board.
Fire. Fire the piece according to the metal-clay
manufacturer s instructions.
Polish. Once cooled, burnish the piece with a stainless-
steel or brass brush to remove the white appearance
from firing. Then, polish it in a tumbler with steel shot
and burnishing compound for about 30 minutes.
4
Preheat the kiln. Remove the kiln shelf and preheat
the kiln to 1550°F (843°C).
[4] Prepare the enamel. Put 1 teaspoon (4.9mL) of
each enamel color into small individual containers, such
as plastic bottle caps or small plastic cups. Fill the
containers with water (distilled, if possible) and then
carefully pour out the water. The powder should stick
to the bottom of the containers. 5
Art Jewelry " September 2005 2
[5] Apply the first enamel layer. The enamel colors
should be damp when applied. Using a small
paintbrush, apply one color in a thin layer to the
appropriately numbered cells. Repeat this step for the
other colors until all the cells are coated with one layer
of enamel.
Fire. Place the pendant on the cool kiln shelf. Use long
tongs and/or heat-resistant gloves to carefully place the
shelf and pendant inside the preheated kiln. Fire the 6
first enamel layer for 1 minute. Carefully remove the
shelf and pendant from the kiln and let the pendant
cool completely. Leave the kiln on.
[6] File the enamel. Hold the pendant under water
and use a 150-grit alundum stone to file the enamel.
Rub the enamel in each cell vigorously and then move
on to the next cell. Wash the pendant with soap and
water, rinse it thoroughly, and then dry it with a cloth 7
or towel.
Repeat the process. Repeat the enamel application,
firing, and filing steps until your piece has the color-
on using
intensity you desire and the cells are completely filled
tipbright enamels
with enamel. Remember, this must be done in thin
layers or your piece may have air bubbles and will not
be a success. If you would like to use red
or orange enamel, you will
Final filing. File the enamel surfaces under water for need to apply a layer of flux
the final time using a 220-grit alundum stone. Wash, or clear enamel first. Red and
rinse, and dry the piece thoroughly. orange colors burn out easily,
and flux or clear enamel acts
Final firing. Fire the pendant one last time for as a barrier to burnout. Once
1 minute. Let it cool. you have applied, fired, and
cooled the preliminary layer,
[7] Attach the pendant to a chain. Attach a jump follow the steps in the article
ring to the hole in the top of your pendant. Slide a to apply the color in layers.
chain through the ring, and you re finished. Z
materials
% Metal clay, 16 20g % Needle tool or craft knife % Long tongs and/or heat-
% Metal-clay syringe % Cocktail straw resistant gloves
% Glass enamel powder: % Emery boards, various grits % Alundum stones, 150- and
colors of your choice, (or sanding materials of 220-grit
1 teaspoon (4.9mL) each your choice)
% Jump ring % Kiln, kiln shelf resources
% Chain % Stainless-steel or brass % PMC+® clay, PMC+ syringe
% Flux or clear enamel brush (various suppliers, visit
(optional) % Tumbler with steel shot www.pmcguild.com)
and burnishing compound % Glass enamel powders
tools & supplies % Distilled water (medium temperature):
% Heavy plastic work surface % Small container for each transparent green, blue,
% Acrylic roller enamel color (plastic bottle and black (Thompson
% Parchment paper caps or small cups) Enamel: 859.291.3800;
% Playing cards % Small paintbrush www.thompson
% Olive oil enamel.com)
Art Jewelry " September 2005 3
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