Miter the 4-in.-wide pine base frame pieces to length so
the inside dimensions of the assembled frame match
the outside box dimensions. Use a jigsaw to cut the leg
profiles. Before assembling the frame, glue and screw
miter blocks to the pieces to support the miter joints
and make assembly easier. Then, assemble the frame
and glue and nail the miters. Glue and screw support
cleats to the inside of the frame. When the glue is
dry, place the base on the inverted box, make sure it’s
centered and secure the box with screws. Attach the
cove molding with 1-in. brads, set all nails and fill.

The chest is made in three parts: the box, the stand and the lid. If you can’t
find lumber-core plywood (your dealer may be able to order it) you can
use veneer-core. But, edge-band the top edges of the sides and ends, and
the back edge of the top, with

3

⁄

4

-in.-square pine. We also used pine for the

moldings and cut the shapes on the router table.

Cut the top panel just larger than the box dimensions and
joint the edges to exact size. We glued the pine nosing
to the front and side edges of the panel and used 2-in.
finishing nails for clamps. Let the nosing extend past
the rear edge—you can cut it flush later. If you’re using
veneer-core plywood, avoid the nails since they’re likely to

split the veneers apart. Take great care
to align the nosing so it’s flush or just
slightly proud of the plywood surface.
The veneer is extremely thin—forget
about planing it down to match the
nosing. To install the cove, lay the box
upside down on the inverted top and
use thin cardboard spacers to maintain
a uniform gap around the box.

Quick

Tip

Wet glue is slippery. To keep things

in place while nailing, dry position

the parts and drive the nails so

they just poke into the adjacent

piece. Then, spread glue and use

the points to align the joint.

P L E A S E C U T H E R E

C

la

s

s

ic

s

S
K
E
T
C
H
B
O
O
K

B
Y

T
H
O
M
A
S

K
L

E
N
C
K

BLANKET CHEST

We assembled the sides and ends first, then cut the bottom to fit. Cut the
side and end panels slightly longer than necessary and just a shade over in
width. Joint the ripped edges so they’re straight, smooth and parallel. Then,
crosscut the pieces squarely to exact length. The squareness of the box
depends on like pieces being exactly the same length, so take care when
crosscutting.

Rout the rabbets in a series of steps to reach the finished

3

⁄

4

-in. depth.

This is not only easier on the router, it means you can use a

1

⁄

2

- or

5

⁄

8

-in. bit

for the job. Note that

3

⁄

4

-in. plywood is really

23

⁄

32

in. thick. This will leave a

1

⁄

32

-in. overhang in the assembled joint that you can trim flush.

Spread glue in each joint and secure with 1

1

⁄

4

-in. finishing nails. Angle

the nails slightly to draw the joint tight and drive them nearly flush so your
hammer doesn’t strike and mar the wood. When the glue is dry, set the
nails below the surface and fill with wood filler.

TABLE SAW:

You could use a

portable circular

saw, but a table

saw will do a

better job of

making straight,

parallel cuts.

ROUTER

TABLE:

This

tool not only

serves to cut

the moldings,

but it handles

the rabbets in

the side and end

panels. Plus,

you can use it to

joint the edges

of your stock so

they’re straight

and smooth. To

do this, install a

straight bit and

set the fence

to take about

a

1

⁄

16

-in. cut.

Then, shim the

outfeed side of

the fence the

same amount so

it supports the

stock after it’s

trimmed.

Tools &

Hardware

YOU’LL ALSO

USE:

Portable drill

and bits

Jigsaw

Block plane

Orbital sander

Hammer and

nailset

5

⁄

8

-in. straight bit

1

⁄

2

-in. cove bit

3

⁄

8

-in. half-round

bit

HARDWARE:

We used 70 x

40mm solid

brass hinges

(No. 01D7040),

available from

Lee Valley (www

.leevalley.com;

800-871-8158).

To support the

lid, we installed

left and right

friction lid stays,

also available

from Lee Valley

(Nos. 00T0750

and 00T0760).

PAINT:

Soldier

Blue milk paint,

(No. 811153),

available from

Woodcraft (www

.woodcraft.com;

800-225-1153).

Correction: In our picnic table project
(August ’05), a problem in the final stage of
production caused the lettering to become mis-
aligned in two drawings. You’ll find the corrected
drawings at www.popularmechanics.com.

The hinge leaves are

1

⁄

16

in. thick. To set each

one flush, first scribe the outline of the leaf
with a knife and use a marking gauge to lay
out the mortise depth. Make vertical cuts just
shy of the knife lines with a sharp chisel. Then,
angle the chisel and make a series of cuts that
reach the mortise depth (near right). Pare
the material away (far right) and finish the
mortise by cutting up to the scribed lines.

C U T T I N G T H E H I N G E M O R T I S E S