Acrylic Nails

Anatomy and Physiology of The Nail

Health and Safety

Allergies

Nail Conditions

Tools and Equipment

Application of Tips

Removal

Maintenance and Aftercare

Introduction

Firstly thank you for purchasing I hope you will find the information guide, I hope you

find it helpful. When writing this information book I wanted to make it as easy to

understand in a straight forward format, having said this there are elements of all

therapies that require health and safety, contraindications etc

Nail extensions of all forms have become hugely popular with nail bars popping up in

every town and can be a rewarding and lucrative career in its own right. Many people

train purely as Nail Technicians where as others add nails as an extra string to their

bow, however, whatever you decide to do one this is for sure that your customers will

demand a high level of service and expertise.

Why do clients have nail extensions?

 To improve the appearance of short fingers as longer nails create the image of

longer fingers and more feminine hands

 Strengthens the natural nail

 Great for special occasions as nail extensions aren’t permanent

 To improve the appearance of the natural shape of the nail

 To cover up disfigured nails (only if the nail isn’t contra-indicated to treat)

How long does it take to apply nail tips?

When starting out it can take a while to perfect but with practice and dedication you

will be able to complete a set of nail tips to a very professional standard in around 45

minutes.

Health and Safety

The full health and safety requirement for beauty and holistic therapists is detailed in

our separate information book. However it is important to point out that any

materials, tools, workstation and hands should be sterilised before use. Cross infection

is the main reason for this which will be detailed further in contraindications. If

possible use disposable items as these can be thrown away after use. If you are

planning on training as a Nail Technician as a career it is worthwhile when treating

clients that they can see you cleaning equipment, washing down the workstation and

washing your hands as this will leave them feel confident about their own safety and

will therefore go along way with securing them as an ongoing client!

Anatomy and Physiology of the Nail

(This section is courtesy of the college where I studied Beauty Therapy)

This shows the structure of the nail

The Nail Plate

The nail plate is made up from translucent layers of keratinised epidermal cells and its

this that makes up the main body of the nail.

The nail grows forward over the nail bed until it becomes the free edge. The

underside of the nail plate is grooved by longitudinal ridges and furrows, this helps to

keep the nail in place.

In normal health the plate of the nail curves into two directions, these are;

Transversely – this goes from side to side across the nail

Longitudinally – this is from the base of the nail to the free edge

There are no blood vessels or nerves in the nail plate and this why nails the same as

hair can be cut and feel no pain or bleed. The pink colour that we have on our nails is

from the blood vessels that pass beneath it.

The Free Edge

The free edge is the bit of nail that grows over the fingertip

The Matrix

The matrix also known as the nail root is the area in which the nail grows. This area

of the nail is formed by the division of cells in the area that form part of the epidermis.

It lies under the base of the nail and its main function is to produce new nail cells.

The Nail Bed

The nail bed is the part of the skin upon which the nail plate rests. It has a pattern of

groves and furrows corresponding to those found on the underside of the nail plate,

these interlock which keeps the nail in place. The nail plate is supplied by the blood

vessels which provide the nourishment need for continued growth. The sensory

nerves that are also in the nail bed are for the protection, for example if you trap a

finger in the door.

The Nail Mantle

This is the layer of epidermis at the base of the nail just before the cuticle.

The Hyponychium

This is part of the epidermis under the free edge of the nail and helps to protect the

nail from infection.

The Nail Grooves

These are to help the nail grow forward and in a straight line.

The Perionychium

This is the collective name for the nail walls and the cuticle area and its function is to

protect the nail.

The Nail Walls

The nail walls are the folds of skin that overlap the sides of the nail and are there to

protect the nail plate edges.

The Eponychium

The eponychium is the extension of the cuticle at the base of the nail plate under the

which the nail plate emerges from the matrix and helps the protect the matrix from

infection.

The Cuticle

The cuticle is the overlapping epidermis around the base of the nail and when in good

condition should be soft and loose, the cuticle also helps to protect the matrix from

infection.

The Growth of The Nail

Cells divide in the matrix and the nail grows forward over the nail bed, this is guided

by the nail grooves as seen above. As they emerge from the matrix the translucent

cells are plump and soft, but they get harder and flatter as they move toward the free

edge (remember this as the tip of the nail)

The nail plate is made up of protein called keratin and the hardening on the underside

of the nail plate, the two surfaces interlock holding the nail in place. Our fingernails

grow at almost twice the speed of toenails and it takes around 6 months for the

fingernail to grow from the cuticle to the free edge, but around 12 months for a

toenail to grow to the free edge!

Treatable and Untreatable Conditions

As nail specialists, it is important to be able to recognise various nail and skin
conditions. There are many common conditions that do not prevent manicures or
application of artificial nails, others which need special care and, less commonly, some
which prevent any treatment altogether.

Two key rules

Always remember the two key rules:

1. professional technicians are not doctors or dermatologists and therefore should

not diagnose a medical condition

2. if there is any doubt about a condition, do not continue, but refer the client to a

specialist

it is worth pointing out that if a client has an obvious medical condition of skin or nails
and is treated by a technician without an agreement from their GP or specialist, the
technician’s insurance can be void and he or she would be directly responsible for any
claim against them should problems arise.

Treatable conditions

These are conditions of the hands, feet and nails that do not prevent treatment, but an
understanding of the condition is important as suitable care needs to be taken.

1. Leukonychia: white spots on the nail plate. Some people are more prone to

these than others and it can depend on the clients occupation. The spot will grow
out but it is likely to be a slight problem when it reaches the end of the nail, as it
may peel

2. Splinter haemorrhage: tiny black streaks under the nail. Usually due to minor

trauma and occasionally due to illness. They grow out

3. Beau’s lines: horizontal ridges across the nail plate. Mechanical trauma, e.g.

over buffing of artificial nails or systemic causes, for example, illness, drugs, skin
disorders around the cuticle area. They will grow out

4. Lamellar dystrophy: peeling and flaking nails. Usually caused by dryness. Use

gentle filing with a very fine emery board, moisture nails and cuticles and advise
client to avoid too much water, detergents, etc

5. Onychopagy: nail biting. Frequent manicures will help stop this problem
6. Furrows: longitudinal lines from matrix to free edge. A single furrow may be

congenital or caused by injury to the matrix. Multiple furrows are usually caused
systematically. Treat with care, as the furrow may be very thin. Do not over buff
to try to smooth out the ridge as this will cause splitting

7. Onychorrhexis: longitudinal splitting associated with furrow. As above, but the

thinned nail may split along the ridge. Treat with care, as the nail plate is
delicate. If there is not inflammation or infection, an overlay could be applied to
repair the split and prevent further splitting. As the fault is in the matrix, the
condition is usually permanent

8. Blue nails: nails with a bluish tinge. Usually due to poor circulation or sometimes

illness. The nails are often weak and thin. Hand massage and careful buffing will
stimulate the circulation in the area. Artificial nails are not recommended if the
nails are very thin, as the treatment will cause too much trauma to the nail.

9. Hangnail: small tear in the cuticle or sharp point on the side of the nail, usually

due to neglect or cuticles or dryness.

10.

Bruised nails: darks spots of blood under the nail plate. Avoid the area if

painful, if there is pressure under the nail or the bruise covers more than a
quarter of the nail. Otherwise treat gently. The blood will eventually grow out

11.

Eggshell nails: thin, pale and fragile nails, usually curving under. Often

sign of chronic illness. Treat very gently

12.

Habit tic: a series of horizontal ridges down the centre of the nail. Caused

by picking at the nail fold. Usually associated with a very large and exposed
lunula. Do not try to buff out

13.

Koilonychia: flat of spoon shape nails, which are thin and soft. Can be

caused by an iron deficiency or excessive exposure to oils or soaps. Treat gently

14.

Pitting: small pits over the surface if the nail, usually due to psoriasis or

dermatitis. Can also be caused by applying a cortisone cream to another area of
the body. Treat gently

15.

Hyperidrosis: this is over-activity of the sweat glands on the hands or feet.

If the condition is severe, then the client should be referred to a GP or specialist.

16.

Corns: this is a patch of hard skin often found on the side or top of the toes

and usually caused by ill-fitting shoes. The surface of this can be removed during
the hard skin removal stage but, if the corn is big, the client should be referred to
the chiropodist

17.

Callus: similar to a corn, but over a larger area such as the heel or under

the foot

18.

Bunion: a misaligned tow joint. This can be very painful so care must be

taken when working in the area

Untreatable Conditions

These are conditions where the technician must not give any treatment. If you are
unsure whether you may treat, refer your client to their GP for permission.

1. Infections/ inflammation: if there is any noticeable infection or inflammation,

treatment should be avoided. Not only is there the possibility of aggravating the
condition, there is also, in the case of infection, a risk of the technician becoming
infected. Examples of this are:

 Infected hangnail

 Whitlow – localised painful, swollen area at the side or base of the nail

plate

 Paronychia – inflammation of the soft tissue surrounding the nail

 Warts – raised lumps of horny tissue, caused by contagious viral infections

 Verruca – found on the foot. This is similar to a wart but is in growing. Can

be identified with a black spot in the middle

2. Onychocryptosis: ingrown toenail. More often seen on toes but can occur on

fingernails

3. Onychomadesis: the nail becomes loose at the cuticle and the new nail pushes

the old one off. It should not be treated, in case infection develops under loose
nail

4. Onychomycosis: lifting, discolouration or rotting of the nail plate. A fungal or

bacterial infection. Any infection must be avoided and the client referred to GP

Fungal infections of the skin or nails: this is sometimes noticed as white areas
under the plate. An example of a fungal infection of the skin of feet is athlete’s foot.
This is usually noticed between the toes as flaky, cracking skin that can look quite wet.

This is contagious and should be treated by the client before any pedicure can take
place.

Allergies

Allergic reactions can occur to anyone at any time. Unfortunately, this is a
very common problem in an industry that uses a variety of chemicals every
day. However it need not be such a problem if good working practices are

adhered to, such as practising strict hygiene and not letting artificial nail
products touch any soft tissue.

 Any individual at any time can become allergic to a particular product

or food. It may be something that has been used for years or a few
days but there is usually a warning that an allergy has developed, e.g.
itchy skin, rash, headaches, etc. this happens when an individual has
been exposed to too much of the product but every person’s level of
‘overexposure’ is different

 If a technician or client develops unusual symptoms, the most

common one being an itchy rash on the hands or fingers, there is a
likelihood that an allergy is starting. In the case of a technician, they
must stop using the product or start wearing gloves and, in the case of

a client all the products must be removed immediately. Do not wait to
see it if gets worse: it will!

 If these actions are taken quickly enough, the symptoms may go fairly

rapidly. If not, the condition will worsen and the hands could become

swollen and bleed, with the nail plate lifted and distorted. Obviously,
the chance of infection at this stage is very high and will make the
whole condition worse. It is really not worth taking the chance of
reaching this stage

 Once the product has been removed, the condition may go. If the

client is willing, a different system could be tried which may be
successful. If the initial reaction is severe, however, it would be a good
idea to do a patch test in the same way as for lash tinting. There are a

few products that are most likely to cause an adverse reaction in any
system. Top of the list is the liquid monomer in any acrylic system; an
acid based primer is corrosive so that could be the culprit it has
touched the skin; or sometimes it could be the nail adhesive. It is
unlikely that the dust from a cured acrylic will have any effect nor will

the dust from the light-cured material as long as there is not trace of
the sticky layer. (excess dust. However, can cause other problems, so
it should not be considered safe)

If the condition does not go in a few days or should it seem to worse after
the removal of all products, the client or technician should get medical
advice.

Application Acrylic Nails

There are two acrylic nail methods – one colour and two colours. The one
colour method uses a single colour of acrylic powder for the entire nail and
produces a nail that is usually worn with polish. The two colour method

uses white acrylic powder for the free edge and clear, natural, or pink
powder for the nail plate. It produces a nail that looks like it has a French
manicure and needs no polish.

Supplies for acrylic nails

In addition to the supplies in your basic manicuring set-up, you will need
the following items:

Acrylic liquid – combines with acrylic powder to form the nail overlay

Acrylic powder – white, clear, natural, and pink powder is available.

Primer – applied to the nail so that the acrylic product will adhere to the
natural nail. Primer can be non-etching or etching.

Abrasive

Small containers for liquid and powdered acrylic

Sable brush – used to apply and shape the soft balls of acrylic on the nail

Acrylic Nail Pre-Service

1. Set up your standard manicuring table. Add the acrylic materials to

your table.

2. Greet the client and ask her to wash her hands with antibacterial soap.

Be sure to dry hands thoroughly with a fresh towel

3. Do client consultation, using the record card to record responses and

observations. Check for nail disorders and decide if it is safe and
appropriate to perform a service on the client. If the client should not

receive the service, explain your reasons and refer her to a doctor

Acrylic Nail Procedure (over natural nails or tips)

1. Remove polish. Begin with your client’s left hand, little finger, and

work toward the thumb. Then repeat on the right hand.

2. Push back cuticle. Use a cotton-tipped orange stick to gently push

back cuticle.

3. Buff nail to remove shine. Buff lightly over nail plate with medium/

fine abrasive to remove the natural oil. Brush off the filings.

4. Apply nail antiseptic. Apply nail antiseptic to nails with cotton-tipped

orange stick, cotton or spray. Begin with the little finger on the left
hand and work toward the thumb.

5. Apply Tips. Apply tips if your client desires them.

6. Apply primer. Apply a dot of primer on the nail with a cotton-wool

tipped orange stick. Allow primer to dry to a chalky white colour
before apply acrylic.

7. Prepare acrylic liquid and powder. Pour acrylic liquid and acrylic

powder into separate small containers. If you are using the two-colour
system, you will need three small containers – one for the white tip
powder, one for the pink powder, and one for the acrylic liquid.

8. Dip brush into liquid. Dip the brush fully into the liquid and wipe on

the free edge of the container to remove excess liquid.

9. Form acrylic ball. Dip the tip of the same brush into the white acrylic

powder and rotate slightly. You will pick up a medium/ dry ball of
acrylic product that is large enough to shape the entire free edge.

10.

Place ball of acrylic on free edge. Place the ball of acrylic on the

free edge of the tip or natural nail.

11.

Shape free edge. Use the middle portion of your sable brush to

dab and press the acrylic to shape the free edge. Keep side-wall lines
parallel. Do not ‘paint’ acrylic onto nail. If you are using two-colour
acrylic method, make sure you follow the natural free edge line with

the white powder to produce a French Manicure look.

12.

Place second ball of acrylic. Pick up a second ball of acrylic of

medium consistency and place it on the nail bed next to the free edge
line in centre of nail.

13.

Shape second ball of acrylic. Dab and press product to side-walls

and cuticle, making sure the product is very thin around all edges. If
you are using the two-colour acrylic method, use pink powder in this
step.

14.

Apply acrylic beads. Pick up small wet beads of acrylic powder on

your brush and place at cuticle area. Use the moisture in the brush to
smooth over these beads over entire nail. Glide the brush over the nail
to smooth out imperfections. Keep acrylic application near cuticle,

sidewall, and free edge extremely thin for the most natural-looking
nail. For the two-colour method use pink powder to form the acrylic
beads.

15.

Shape and refine nail. Use coarse abrasive to shape free edge

and remove imperfections. Then refine with medium/ fine abrasive.

16.

Buff nails. Buff nail with block buffer until entire surface is

smooth.

17.

Apply cuticle oil. Rub cuticle oil into cuticles surrounding skin and

nails surface.

18.

Apply hand cream and massage hand and arm.

19.

Clean nails. Ask client to dip nails in fingerbowl filled with

antibacterial soap. Then use nail brush to clean nails. Rinse with
water. Dry thoroughly. If your client selected the two-colour method,
her acrylic nails are finished.

20.

Apply polish. Polish one-colour acrylic nails.

21.

Complete acrylic post-service procedure.

Applying Acrylic Overlay

Acrylic Post Service

1. Make another appointment. Schedule another appointment with your

client for maintaining her acrylic nails. A fill-in will be necessary in two
or three weeks, depending on how quickly the nails grow. Encourage
your client to return for a water manicure between acrylic

maintenance appointments if her acrylic nails are polished.

2. Sell retail products. Suggest that your client buy products necessary to

maintain her acrylic nails between appointments. Polish, lotion, and

top coat may be helpful.

3. Clean up around your table and clean brushes with brush cleaner.

Acrylic Nails over Forms

Supplies

Same as Acrylic nails just add:

Nail Forms - Can be disposable or reusable. Disposable forms have an

adhesive backing that holds the form in place. Reusable forms are made of
aluminium, Teflon, or plastic and have no adhesive backing.

1. Remove polish. Begin with your client’s left hand, little finger, and work
toward the thumb. Then repeat on the right hand.

2. Push back cuticle. Use a cotton-tipped orange stick to gently push back
cuticle.

3. Buff nail to remove shine. Buff lightly over nail plate with medium/ fine
abrasive to remove the natural oil. Brush off the filings.

4. Apply nail antiseptic. Apply nail antiseptic to nails with cotton-tipped

orange stick, cotton or spray. Begin with the little finger on the left

hand and work toward the thumb.

5. Position Nail Form. Position nail form on nail. If you are using

disposable forms, peel a nail form from its paper backing and, using
the thumb and index finger of each of your hands, bend the form into

an arch to fit the clients natural nail shape. Slide the form onto your
client’s finger and press adhesive backing to sides of the finger. Check
to see that the form is snug under the free edge and level with the
natural nail.

If you are using reusable forms, slide the form onto the client’s finger,
making sure the free edge is over the form and that it fits snugly. Be
careful not to cut into the part of the skin under the free edge. Tighten
form around the finger by squeezing lightly.

6. Apply primer. Apply a dot of primer on the nail with a cotton-wool

tipped orange stick. Allow primer to dry to a chalky white colour
before apply acrylic.

7. Prepare acrylic liquid and powder. Pour acrylic liquid and acrylic

powder into separate small containers. If you are using the two-colour

system, you will need three small containers – one for the white tip
powder, one for the pink powder, and one for the acrylic liquid.

8. Dip brush into liquid. Dip the brush fully into the liquid and wipe on

the free edge of the container to remove excess liquid.

9. Form acrylic ball. Dip the tip of the same brush into the white acrylic

powder and rotate slightly. You will pick up a medium/ dry ball of
acrylic product that is large enough to shape the entire free edge.

10.

Place acrylic ball on the nail form at the point where the free

edge joins the nail form

11.

Shape free edge. Use the middle portion of your sable brush to

dab and press acrylic to shape an extension. Do not ‘paint’ the acrylic
onto the nail. Dabbing and pressing the acrylic is more accurate than
‘painting’ and produces a more natural looking nail. Keep sidewall lines
parallel and shape acrylic continuously along free edge line. If you are
using the two-colour acrylic method, make sure you follow the natural

free edge line with white powder to produce the French manicure look.

12.

Place second ball of acrylic. Pick up a second ball of acrylic of

medium consistency and place it on the natural nail nest to the free

edge line in centre of nail

13.

Shape second ball of acrylic. Dab and press product to side-walls

and cuticle, making sure the product is very thin around all edges. If

you are using the two-colour acrylic method, use pink powder in this
step.

14.

Apply acrylic beads. Pick up small wet beads of acrylic powder on

your brush and place at cuticle area. Use the moisture in the brush to
smooth over these beads over entire nail. Glide the brush over the nail
to smooth out imperfections. Keep acrylic application near cuticle,
sidewall, and free edge extremely thin for the most natural-looking
nail. For the two-colour method use pink powder to form the acrylic

beads.

15.

Apply acrylic to the remaining nails. Repeat steps 5 – 14 on

remaining nails

16.

Remove forms. When nails are thoroughly dry, loosen forms and

slide them off. Nails are dry when they make a clicking sound when
lightly tapped.

17.

Shape and refine nail. Use coarse/ medium abrasive to shape

free edge and remove imperfections. Glide abrasive over each nail
with long sweeping strokes to further shape and perfect nail surface.
Make nails thinner towards cuticles, fee edge, and sidewalls

18.

Buff nails. Buff nail with block buffer until entire surface is

smooth.

19.

Apply cuticle oil. Rub cuticle oil into cuticles surrounding skin and

nails surface.

20.

Apply hand cream and massage hand and arm.

21.

Clean nails. Ask client to dip nails in fingerbowl filled with

antibacterial soap. Then use nail brush to clean nails. Rinse with
water. Dry thoroughly. If your client selected the two-colour method,
her acrylic nails are finished.

22.

Apply polish. Polish one-colour acrylic nails.

23.

Complete acrylic post-service procedure.

ACRYLIC NAIL APPLICATION OVER BITTEN NAILS

Procedure
The procedure for applying acrylic nails over bitten nails is similar to the
application of acrylic nails over forms. However, you must create a

portion of the nail plate before applying the nail form.

1. Complete acrylic nail pre-service

2. Remove polish – begin with your clients left hand, little finger, and

work toward to thumb. Then repeat on the right hand

3. Clean nails – ask the client to dip nails in fingerbowl filled with

antibacterial soap. Then use a nail brush to clean nails. Rinse nails
briefly in clean water

4. Push back cuticle – use an orange stick to gently push back cuticle

5. Buff nail to remove shine. Buff lightly over nail plate with medium/

fine abrasive to remove the natural oil. Brush off the filings.

6. Apply nail antiseptic. Apply nail antiseptic to nails with cotton-tipped

orange stick, cotton or spray. Begin with the little finger on the left
hand and work toward the thumb.

7. Apply primer. Apply a dot of primer on nail with cotton-tipped orange

stick. Primer is meant for the nail plate only. People with bitten nails
often have rough cuticles and damaged surrounding skin. Be very
careful to avoid touching any of the client’s skin with primer.

8. Prepare acrylic powder and liquid. Pour acrylic liquid and acrylic

powder into separate small containers.

9. Form acrylic ball. Pick up a small ball of acrylic product of medium-dry

consistency. Use white for the two-coloured method.

10.

Place ball of acrylic on skin. Apply a small ball of acrylic product

on the skin near bitten nail.

11.

Create nail plate. Use the middle of your brush to dab and press

to shape a nail plate or a base for the form on which the acrylic nail
will be built. Do not place acrylic product beyond the sidewall line.

12.

Pull away skin. Allow the acrylic to dry completely. You should be

able to hear a click when you tap it with a brush. Then gently pull the
client’s skin away at the free edge line. You will now have a free edge
that is large enough to support a nail form.

13.

Position Nail Form. Position nail form under newly created free

edge.

14.

Prepare acrylic liquid and powder. Pour acrylic liquid and acrylic

powder into separate small containers. If you are using the two-colour
system, you will need three small containers – one for the white tip
powder, one for the pink powder, and one for the acrylic liquid.

15.

Dip brush into liquid. Dip the brush fully into the liquid and wipe

on the free edge of the container to remove excess liquid.

16.

Form acrylic ball. Dip the tip of the same brush into the white

acrylic powder and rotate slightly. You will pick up a medium/ dry ball
of acrylic product that is large enough to shape the entire free edge.

17.

Place acrylic ball on the nail form at the point where the free

edge joins the nail form

18.

Shape free edge. Use the middle portion of your sable brush to

dab and press acrylic to shape an extension. Do not ‘paint’ the acrylic
onto the nail. Dabbing and pressing the acrylic is more accurate than
‘painting’ and produces a more natural looking nail. Keep sidewall lines

parallel and shape acrylic continuously along free edge line. If you are
using the two-colour acrylic method, make sure you follow the natural
free edge line with white powder to produce the French manicure look.

19.

Place second ball of acrylic. Pick up a second ball of acrylic of

medium consistency and place it on the natural nail nest to the free
edge line in centre of nail

20.

Shape second ball of acrylic. Dab and press product to side-walls

and cuticle, making sure the product is very thin around all edges. If
you are using the two-colour acrylic method, use pink powder in this
step.

21.

Apply acrylic beads. Pick up small wet beads of acrylic powder on

your brush and place at cuticle area. Use the moisture in the brush to
smooth over these beads over entire nail. Glide the brush over the nail
to smooth out imperfections. Keep acrylic application near cuticle,
sidewall, and free edge extremely thin for the most natural-looking

nail. For the two-colour method use pink powder to form the acrylic
beads.

22.

Apply acrylic to the remaining nails. Repeat steps 5 – 14 on

remaining nails

23.

Remove forms. When nails are thoroughly dry, loosen forms and

slide them off. Nails are dry when they make a clicking sound when
lightly tapped.

24.

Shape and refine nail. Use coarse/ medium abrasive to shape

free edge and remove imperfections. Glide abrasive over each nail
with long sweeping strokes to further shape and perfect nail surface.
Make nails thinner towards cuticles, fee edge, and sidewalls

25.

Buff nails. Buff nail with block buffer until entire surface is

smooth.

26.

Apply cuticle oil. Rub cuticle oil into cuticles surrounding skin and

nails surface.

27.

Apply hand cream and massage hand and arm.

28.

Clean nails. Ask client to dip nails in fingerbowl filled with

antibacterial soap. Then use nail brush to clean nails. Rinse with
water. Dry thoroughly. If your client selected the two-colour method,
her acrylic nails are finished.

29.

Apply polish. Polish one-colour acrylic nails.

30.

Complete acrylic post-service procedure.

ACRYLIC NAIL MAINTENANCE AND REMOVAL

Regular maintenance helps prevent acrylic nails from lifting or cracking.
When acrylic nails lift, crack, or grow out with no maintenance, moisture
and dirt can become trapped under the acrylic nail and fungus can begin
to grow.

There are two types of maintenance for acrylic nails – rebalancing and
crack repair.

Rebalancing

Rebalancing is the addition of acrylic to the new growth area of the nails.

Acrylic nails should be filled in every two to three weeks, depending on
how fast the nail grows. Without a rebalancing, the nail will begin to look
unnatural and uneven as it grows longer. The new growth area near the
cuticle will be noticeably lower than the rest of the nail.

Use the following procedure for rebalancing.

1. Complete acrylic application pre-service

2. Remove old polish

3. Smooth ledge between new growth and acrylic nail. Use a

medium/fine abrasive to smooth the ledge of acrylic in the new
growth area so that it blends into nail plate

4. Refine entire nail. Hold abrasive flat and glide it over entire nail to

reshape and refine nail and thin out free edge

5. Buff nail. Use buffer block to buff acrylic and blend it into new

growth area

6. Blend acrylic that has lifted. Use a file to smooth out any acrylic

that might have lifted

7. Clean nail. Use fingerbowl filled with warm water and antibacterial

soap and a nail brush to gently wash nails. Do not soak nails

8. Push back cuticle. Use a cotton-tipped orangewood stick to gently

push back cuticle

9. Buff nail to remove shine. Buff lightly over nail plate with medium/

fine abrasive to remove the natural oil. Brush off filings

10. Apply acrylic antiseptic. Apply nail antiseptic to nails with cotton-

tipped orangewood stick, cotton, or spray

11. Apply primer. Apply a dot of primer to the newly grown natural

nail

12. Prepare acrylic liquid and powder. Pour liquid and powder into

small separate containers

13. Place balls of acrylic. Pick up one or more small balls of acrylic

and place them on the new growth area. Be sure to use pink
acrylic if you are using the two-colour method

14. Shape balls of acrylic. Use middle of brush to dab and press the

acrylic until it blends into the existing sculptured nail

15. Place balls of acrylic. Pick up one or more small wet balls of

acrylic and place them at base of the nail bed towards the cuticle

16. Shape beads of acrylic. Use the moisture in to brush to smooth

these beads over entire nail plate. Glide the brush over the smooth
out imperfections. Acrylic application near cuticle, sidewall, and

free edge should be extremely thin for a natural looking nail.

17. Shape nails. Allow nails to dry thoroughly. Nails are dry when

they make a clicking noise when tapped lightly. Use a
medium/coarse grit abrasive to shape free edge and remove any

imperfections. Use medium/ fine abrasive to glide over nail with
long sweeping strokes to further shape and perfect nail surface.
Taper nail shape towards cuticle, nail tip, and sidewalls, making it
thin at all edges.

18. Buff nail. Smooth entire surface of nail using block buffer until its

smooth

19. Apply cuticle oil

20. Apply hand cream and massage hand and arm

21. Clean nails

22. Apply polish

23. Complete acrylic application post-service

Crack Repair

Acrylic crack repair is the addition of extra acrylic to fill the crack in an

acrylic nail and reinforce the rest of the nail.

1. Complete acrylic application pre-service

2. Remove old polish

3. File cracked acrylic. File a ‘v’ shape into the crack or file flush to

remove crack

4. Clean nails. Dip nails into fingerbowl filled with warm water and

antibacterial soap. Then use nail brush to clean nails over fingerbowl.
Rinse nails briefly in clean water. Dry nails thoroughly

5. Apply nail antiseptic. Apply nail antiseptic to nails using cotton-tipped

orange stick, cotton, or spray

6. Apply primer. Apply a dot of primer to the area

7. Apply nail form. If the crack is large, apply a nail form for added

support

8. Prepare acrylic liquid and powder.

9. Place balls of acrylic. Pick up one or more small beads of acrylic and

apply them to the cracked area. If you are using the two-colour
system, be sure to use the right colour acrylic

10.

Shape balls of acrylic. Dab and press the acrylic to fill crack. Be

careful not to let the acrylic seep under form or under existing nail

11.

Place additional balls of acrylic. Apply additional acrylic, if

needed, to fill in crack or reinforce the rest of the nail. Shape acrylic

and allow it to dry thoroughly

12.

Remove form

13.

Reshape nail

14.

Buff until smooth

15.

Clean nails

16.

Apply cuticle oil

17.

Apply hand cream and massage hand and arm

18.

Clean nails

19.

Apply polish

20.

Complete acrylic application post-service

ACRYLIC REMOVAL

1. Fill bowl with acetone. Fill glass bowl with enough acetone to cover

clients fingers

2. Soak fingertips. Soak clients fingertips for 15 minutes or as long as

you need to remove acrylic product

3. Remove acrylic with orangewood stick. Use orangewood stick and

gently push off softened acrylic nail. Repeat until all acrylic has been

removed. Do not pry off acrylic with nippers, as this will damage
natural nail plate

4. Buff nails. Gently buff natural nail with fine block buffer to remove any

existing acrylic residue

5. Condition cuticle. Condition cuticle and surrounding skin with cuticle

and hand lotion

CLIENT CARE CARD ON THE NEXT PAGE

Nail care Client Card

Address:

Telephone:

Date of Birth:

Cuticles:

Dry

Tight

Cracked

Soft

Nails:

Strong

Weak/ Flaking

Long/ Short

Nail Bitter

Shape:

Oval

Round

Square

Pointed

Hands:

Dry/ Rough

Soft/ Smooth

Even Colour

I acknowledge that due to:
Another technician’s lack of expertise/ the prolonged use of ‘stick ons’/ my medical condition/ I
am a nail bitter/ I may have complications for which I do not hold my technician responsible.

I acknowledge that these enhancements should be replaced/ maintained or removed every 2

weeks professionally at a salon.

These enhancements are not guaranteed and are my sole responsibility.
I am not knowingly suffering from any transferable disease or infection.

Signed:

Dated: