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Copyright makeupByOrsela 2012 ©

This is an extract off the original Training Manual by ‘

makeupByOrsela

We hope that the information and tips contained herein are of good use to you and you can begin to

apply them in your routines as a lover of Makeup or as a Professional Makeup artist.

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Copyright makeupByOrsela 2012 ©

Copyright © 2012 Teri Almaro for ‘

makeupByOrsela

, Lagos Nigeria

All rights reserved.


All content contained within the "Makeup and Facial Contouring" EBook is copyright © 2012 Teri
Almaro ‘

makeupByOrsela

All literary work contained within the “Makeup and Facial Contouring" EBook belongs to and is the sole
property of its respective authors and is reprinted with permission. Reproduction, copying, or any
other form of use of the pieces contained within the EBook is STRICTLY FORBIDDEN without express
permission from the author him or herself. If perjury is discovered the offenders will be prosecuted to
the full extent of the law.


Note: The owner of this EBook is permitted to print ONE copy for his or her own use.
These rules have been established to protect the rights and ownership of the authors and to Ensure
that their work is upheld as their own.

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“there has been an emergence of several makeup servicing outfits in the past couple of years,
But ‘makeupByOrsela seems to stand out from the pack with impressive work each time”

-

Bellanaija (Nigeria)

“i was wowed by the level of understanding of the Art that i witnessed while working with the Creative Director
of ‘makeupByOrsela. There are a lot of Makeup artists in Nigeria today who do not pay such a high level of
attention to detail like she does. Outstanding”

-

MAI Atafo, Fashion Designer (Nigeria)

“the best i have worked with so far in all my years of Photography. Very precise, very into the Arts”

-

Obi Somto, Celebrity Photographer (Nigeria)

“makeupByOrsela houses the best team of dedicated artists and provides optimum service. The magazine can
boast of beautiful photos because of the work that is put in for Makeup by this amazing team”

-

Sesan Adeniji, Editor Bubbles Magazine (Nigeria)

“Africa is at that point in fashion where gifted people like the Creative Director of ‘makeupByOrsela can finally
be appreciated for their artistic works in Makeup that transcends into fashion, advertising, photography, music
videos and movies. I am truly impressed”

-

Ashante, Fashion Designer (Ghana)

“Very few makeup artists impress me when it comes to makeup for Music videos and ‘makeupByOrsela
definitely cuts the list”

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Clarence Peters, Video Director (Nigeria)

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CONTOURING

Contouring is one of the oldest practices in the makeup industry. Yet contouring is one of the most
frequently left-out steps in makeup applications. Contouring creates a sense of balance, adding
definition to your makeup with color. It is a makeup technique used to give the face some form of
definition using makeup products, mostly Foundations, Bronzers and Blushes. Contrary to belief,
contouring is always some shade of brown. Never use shades of makeup such as pink, plum etc. Use a
shade that is similar to your skin tone. Not many women know about it and the technique is advanced.
So handle with care so you don't end up looking overdone. The key is less is more. Your makeup should
be simple and natural (by that I don't mean no makeup). It's your face we want to notice not the
makeup.

Think of contouring as painting a blank canvas. You apply foundation to even out your complexion.
Then think of creating shape to your face. The main principle is this:



Dark shading will make facial features recede



Light shading will make facial features more prominent

Contouring is used to : Thin down a rounded face, Soften a square face, Define your cheek bones ,
Narrow a large or wide shape nose, Define your jaw line, Create fuller lips, Lift saggy eyes, Minimize a
large forehead or receding hair line, Make your eyes look bigger etc.

TO SCULPT YOUR FACE YOU WILL NEED:

1. Your true foundation color that matches your skin exactly

2. Your contour color that should be 2 shades darker than your
foundation and with the same undertone

3. Your highlighting color that should be 1 to 2 shades lighter than your
foundation and with the same undertone

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STEPS:

1. Prep your face by cleansing and applying your usual foundation (exact colour of your skin) and
concealer.
2. What you need for the contouring is — a bronzer (or a foundation 1-2 shades darker than your skin
tone), blush, highlight powder (or a foundation 1-2 shades lighter than your skin tone), and eye
shadow, eyeliner and makeup brushes.
3. Stand under an overhead light which brightly illuminates your face. Use this as a guideline to see
where your shadows naturally fall and contour your face accordingly.
4. Alternatively, you may start by sucking your cheeks in and locating your cheek bones and the
hollows under it. The hollow is where you need to apply bronzer (or the darker foundation) in a
sweeping movement from the top of your forehead’s hairline. Extend the brush movement to the area
directly underneath the apples of your cheeks. Blend well.
5. If your face is small, you can just shade the hollows of the cheeks starting from the temples. Shading
on the forehead along your hairline will make your face appear even smaller.
At the same time, those with a broad forehead can benefit from using bronzer to shade around the
hairline to minimize its apparent width. It is very important to know what your face shape is and work
with it accordingly.
6. If you have a wide face, use bronzer to shade the outer edges of your jaw line to make it appear
smaller. People with narrow thin faces may skip this part.
Those with a double chin can sweep the brush under the jaw line to create a shadow there.
7. The apples of your cheeks may be highlighted with highlight powder and a blush in a colour of your
choice.
8. Pick up a smaller brush. Apply your strokes from where your eyebrow begins down along the sides of
the bridge of the nose. Leave the bridge untouched. Repeat on the other side, blending really well to
avoid harsh lines.

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When you get to the tip of your nose, examine its shape carefully.
If the nose has a wide tip, blend bronzer inwards underneath the tip, to create a v-shaped shadow
facing inwards. Use highlight powder to make the tip of the nose more prominent, and extend the
highlight along the bridge.

If the nose has a naturally narrow tip, then flare outwards from the tip forming an upside-down ‘v’.
Soften the tip with a neutral shade of foundation. This will balance a very sharp nosed face. Use
highlighter or a neutral foundation powder along the bridge to give it the desired shape.
Some noses may be shaped perfectly and will not need to be over defined. With trial and error, you will
know what looks most aesthetic.

9. Use highlighter to lighten brow bone just underneath your brows to lift the eye. Add a hint of
highlight along the inner corner of the eye for a more wide-awake look. Shade the crease with a dark
brown or any deeper shade of eye shadow. Apply the eye shadow as usual. Line your eyes and apply
mascara.
10. You may want to apply a slight touch of highlighter on the Cupid’s bow to give definition to lips.
Line lips with a deeper shade than your lipstick colour and fill inside the outline with lipstick.

How To Contour Face Using Blush – The Basic Steps

• Make a fish face by sucking your cheeks in. A hollow area is created on your
cheeks; this is your contour line. Start applying the contour color here. If you
have picked up the right kind of contour brush, it must fit well in this hollow
area. Follow the natural curves while you apply the color and using swiping
upward movements towards your hairline.
• Blush should now be applied above your contour line. A full-size downy brush
can be used for the purpose.
• Now, give a big smile. The apples of your cheeks will be revealed. Blush
should now be applied on the cheek-apples; use sweeping movement towards

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the temples.
• With the help of a blending brush, blend the colors by using sweeping motions towards your hairline.
• After a few strokes, use small and circular movements; start with the apples of your cheeks and work
back towards your hairline.
• A little highlighter can be used in the final stage. Take the brush and choose any side of the face you
like to start with. Apply a little bit of highlighter with sweeping movements back to temples on the area
above your cheek bone and under the corner of the eye. Use sweeping movements and circular
movements alternately for blending. Contouring one side of your face is done. These steps will now
have to be repeated for the other side of the face as well.

See photos below of Celebrity socialite Kim Kardashian and the result of Contouring.

FINAL RESULTS BELOW:

BEFORE - AFTER

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Makeup Artistry is a fun and expressive career that exploits your creativity and love for Makeup.
Thousands of people around the world earn impressive revenues from being Makeup artists. Others do
it as an added career or business to their 9-5 jobs. Whatever the case, its a fun job and anybody with
the skill and passion for it can succeed.

At ‘makeupByOrsela, we welcome everyone, old, young, Working class, student, Male, Female. Our joy
is to see an ordinary individual with no prior training, come into the business and kick ass!

Find your passion, whatever it is, and own it!

All the best from ,

the

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makeupByOrsela

Team

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