© Lonely Planet Publications
212 www. l onel ypl anet. com ADDIS ABABA TO AWASH 213
0 150 km
EASTERN ETHIOPIA
0 90 miles
To Adigrat
E R I T R E A
(160km)
Eastern Ethiopia Ras Dashen
Assab
(4543m)
Y E M E N
Simien
Menagaga
Mountains Maychew
National Park
Didigsala
Sekota
Abune Yosef
D J I B O U T I
H H
(4190m)
A trip to eastern Ethiopia is a journey that tickles the heart, boggles the mind and challenges
Galafi
Semera
Lake
Lalibela
Logiya Gargori
the soul no less than that. In stark contrast to the green, densely populated, Christian
Lake
Woldia DJIBOUTI CITY
Asaita
Gamarri
Mille Loyada
Gashema
highlands, the east is largely arid, wild, low-lying and Muslim. In it lies eastern Ethiopia s Afambo
Lake
Maqdala Lake
Ali
Afambo
Lake
Bario
Sabieh
G u l f o f
piéce de résistance: the old walled city of Harar, which seems straight out of a story from Hayk
Amba Hayk
A d e n
Farit Dikhil
Lake Abbe
Bati
Dessie
the Arabian Nights. This gem of a place is shrouded with a palpable historical aura that will (3975m)
(Lac Abbé)
Gelille
Kombolcha
H H
Bora
Yangudi-Rassa
appeal to culture vultures. And after nightfall, the hard-to-believe ritual feeding of the Harar
National Park
Abuye
hyenas will leave you gasping in awe. Meda
(4000m)
S O M A L I A
True, if you re an outdoor enthusiast, you might find eastern Ethiopia is a bit low on active
Gewane ( S O M A L I L A N D )
Borama
pursuits. There is potential, but it s still largely undeveloped. But the Awash National Park, with
Fiche Wajaale
its outstanding birdlife, offers ample compensation. Be sure to squeeze it into your itinerary.
Hargeisa
H H
Dire Dawa
Debre Berhan
Kulubi
Alemaya
Arbereketi
Debre
For wannabe National Geographic wanderers, the seemingly endless ribbon of bitumen lead-
Jijiga
Awash Mt
Libanos
Arba
Asebot
Awash
Harar
ing northeast to Asaita offers opportunities for remote exploration. Follow Wilfred Thesiger s Gara
National Babille
Valley of
Muleta
ADDIS ABABA Asbe
Park
Marvels
Tefari (3405m)
steps and head to the mesmerisingly desolate area known as the southern Danakil region, Awash
Mt Yerer
Akaki
Metehara
The international boundaries on
(3100m) The international boundaries on
Dukem
this map serve as indications only.
this map serve as indications only.
which is home to the fascinating Afar people and remains adamantly off the beaten track.
Debre Zeyit
Mojo
The Ethiopia Eritrea border awaits
Mechara The Ethiopia Eritrea border awaits
formal UN demarcation.
formal UN demarcation.
H
Mt Nazret
Zuqualla
To Jimma
But if all you want is to please your palate, the east could also prove your Shangri-la: it is
Sodore
known as the home of the best coffee in the world we agree. Or you could unleash your
Climate It s also possible to travel from Hargeisa
inner rebel and dare to try chewing chat, the mildly intoxicating stimulant.
The lowlands around Asaita and Awash (Somaliland) to Jijiga by bus. For more in-
So go ahead, dive in! are baking hot (up to 45°C) from May to formation see p275.
September and receive little rain. They are
also prone to severe droughts. The climate Getting Around
in Debre Zeyit and Nazret is similar to the Good sealed roads connect the main cit-
conditions that prevail in Addis Ababa. The ies, including Asaita to the far northeast.
highlands around Dire Dawa, Harar and Most cities in this part of Ethiopia are well
HIGHLIGHTS
Jijiga are hot and dry. The main rains fall served by public transport, except for the
from July to September. long stretch from Awash to Asaita where
Lap up lake vistas in Debre Zeyit (p214),
buses are infrequent. To visit Awash Na-
where mighty mother nature lashes an
National Parks tional Park, you will have to travel by pri-
astounding landscape
While you can easily dismiss the Yangudi- vate or rented 4WD.
Asaita
Pant up Mt Zuqualla (p216) and confess
Rassa National Park, where the wildlife is
your sins at the poignant monastery of Mt
as abundant as in Manhattan, make sure
Zuqualla Maryam
you don t skip Awash National Park. The ADDIS ABABA TO AWASH
Harar
Awash National Park
Hear yourself scream: Look! Barbets! in the
park has enough species of birds to keep
Debre Zeyit
Awash National Park (p217)
Mt Zuqualla twitchers happy, and a fair share of other The long stretch of road between Addis
wildlife. Ababa and Awash is a gentle introduction
Get up close and very personal with a dozen
to eastern Ethiopia. Most foreign visitors
hyenas in Harar (p226)
Getting There & Away rush straight through without stopping,
Spend a couple of days getting blissfully lost in Harar s entrancing history while exploring the
Ethiopian Airlines (www.flyethiopian.com) connects which is a bit of a shame. Although there s
magical jumble of alleyways and shrines of the old walled city (p229)
Addis Ababa with Dire Dawa and Jijiga. nothing really jaw-dropping (be patient!),
Share a smile and a bunch of chat with Afar people, Ethiopia s most fear-inspiring ethnic
Most people who enter eastern Ethiopia there are enough attractions and notable
group, in Asaita (p222)
overland travel by bus or by train from Dji- towns to keep you busy for a few days. Get
bouti City and disembark in Dire Dawa. your bearings and enjoy!
E A S T E R N E T H I O P I A
EASTERN ETHIOPIA
Depression
Danakil
r
ve
Ri
h
as
Aw
CHERCHER &
ARBA GUGU
MOUNTAINS
214 ADDIS ABABA TO AWASH " " Debre Zeyi t www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com ADDIS ABABA TO AWASH " " Debre Zeyi t 215
DEBRE ZEYIT Tele Center Almaz Information Technology can get a bit noisy, but it s easy enough to bathrooms leave something to be desired.
pop 107,000 / elev 1920m Service (per hr Birr21; h8.30am-8.30pm) Internet. On escape the crowds: just follow the footpath One thing is for sure: the views over Lake
Lakes, lakes, lakes. Debre Zeyit is all about the road to Lake Hora. around the lake as it winds through the Bishoftu Guda are jaw-dropping. It s in the
lakes. The town, known in the local Oromo Telecommunications (h8.30am-noon & 1.30-5.30pm forested slopes of the crater. A circumnavi- same area as the Kiroftu, just after the Gali-
language as Bishoftu, is strung with a dish- Mon-Fri, 8.30-noon Sat) Next to the post office. gation of the lake takes around 1½ hours. leo Centre (look for the brown and black
evelled necklace of crater lakes, which have You should go accompanied, as hassle (and metal portal with the letters AA on it).
been a longtime playground for weekending Sights even theft) has been a problem. Ethiopian Air Force Officers Club (%0114
Addis Ababans. However, most travellers LAKE BISHOFTU There are plans to build a luxury hotel 338035; s/d Birr200/400; If spending some
s)
pass through Debre Zeyit, lured by more Lake Bishoftu is the most central lake, south here. time with army officials is your idea of a
magnetic destinations such as Awash Na- of the main Addis Ababa Nazret road. The nice retreat, you can bunk down in this
tional Park or Harar. It s a shame because area is almost totally denuded of trees, but OTHER LAKES characterless yet airy complex. The general
they miss out on these superb lakes. Sure, it the lake still attracts good birdlife. The best If you feel lake addicted after visiting Lake feel is a bit faded but the killer here is the
ain t the Bahamas but the countrified town way to appreciate the lake is probably from Bishoftu and Lake Hora, and need another Olympic-sized pool (Birr15).
of Debre Zeyit is a tasty hors d oeuvre be- Hotel Bishoftu, drink in hand. The view lake fix, follow the road to the north. Walk Seven E Hotel (%0114 339888; d Birr25-35) Al-
fore tackling the rougher expanses of far overlooking the crater rim is breathtaking. past the Defence Engineering College and the though décor is not its strong point, this
eastern Ethiopia. Agriculture Research Centre until you reach nonetheless good-value option is an accept-
LAKE HORA a fork. Take the right fork and follow the dirt able crash pad if the other ones are full. Its
Information Lake Hora lies 1.5km north of the centre road until you reach the Galileo Centre. Con- best feature is the refreshing garden com-
Commercial Bank (h8-11am & 1-4pm Mon-Fri, of Debre Zeyit; follow the signposts to the tinue straight on for about 400m, until a dirt pound. It s just off the main road from the
8-11am Sat) Changes cash only (euros and US Hora Recreation Center. The lake is at- road to your left leads down to the shore of Shell station.
dollars). tractively set and its birdlife is outstanding. the scenic and peaceful Lake Bishoftu Guda.
Construction & Business Bank (h8-11am & 1-3pm Storks, pelicans, shovellers and grebes, as To get to the milky-looking Lake Kiroftu, Eating
Mon-Fri, 8-11am Sat) On the road to lake Hora. Changes well as brightly coloured kingfishers, are backtrack to the Galileo Centre and take Eshet Pastry & Fast Food (pastries Birr2-5; h6am-
cash only (euros and US dollars). among the species seen here. the road on the left leading to the Kiroftu 9.30pm) With loud TV, smiling waitresses,
Post office (h8am-noon & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Along the shore, the Hora Recreation Center Resort & Spa. Lake Kiroftu is known par- thick pineapple juices (Birr4), strong mac-
Sat) Off the road to Lake Hora. (admission Birr4) has opened. At the weekend it ticularly for its tilapia (freshwater fish) and chiatos (Birr2) and shady terrace, this lively
its varied birdlife. den is a perfect spot to soak up the atmos-
0 1 km
There are other lakes dotted around Debre phere. You can t miss it; it s near the main
DEBRE ZEYIT
0 0.5 miles
Zeyit, including the Cuban Lakes, but they lie square, on the road to Lake Hora.
To Cuban
A Lakes (9km) B C D
much further away and are not easily acces- Genet Restaurant (%0114 640542; mains Birr8-15)
Church of
Medhane Alem sible unless you have private transport. Just down the road from Hotel Bishoftu,
Lake Bishoftu
Guda
6
9 this modest but pleasant and popular eat-
Lake
Koriftu
0 300 m Sleeping ery serves good Ethiopian staples at puny
Galileo
1
Centre 0 0.2 miles
2
Hotel Bishoftu (%0114 338299; fax 0114 339655; prices. The menu is not translated in Eng-
s/d Birr50/70) All s shipshape at the welcom- lish; just ask for tibs (sliced lamb, pan fried
4
ing Bishoftu. The adjoining rooms are set in butter, garlic, onion and sometimes to-
3
INFORMATION
around a sun-dappled courtyard, and the mato) or misto (a combination of various
Commercial Bank.........................1 C2
12
restaurant overlooks the lime-green waters types of meat served with injera, a large
Construction & Business Bank.......2 C1
1
Post Office...................................3 C1
of Lake Bishoftu. It s in a quiet street off Ethiopian version of a pancake/plate) and
Train
Tele Center Almaz Information
Station
14
Technology Service..................4 C1 the main drag. you should depart happy and buzzing.
11
Telecommunications..................(see 3)
Kiroftu Resort & Spa (%0911 248213, in Addis Dreamland Family Resort (%0114 339498; mains
8
13
2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Ababa 011-6636557; s/d Birr300/500; Need an Birr15-25) The selling point of this restaurant is
s)
Lake Hora Recreation Center................5 B2
Lake Hora
10
escape hatch? Travel no further. This am- its unbeatable position, with such a breath-
Bishoftu
15 SLEEPING
bitious outfit, opened in 2006, fits the bill taking view over the lime-green waters of
5
Babugaya Hotele..........................6 A1
with 18 spacious, comfy cottage-style units Lake Bishoftu that it s hard to tear yourself
Ethiopian Air Force Officers' Club..7 B3
Hotel Bishoftu..............................8 C2
with thatched roofs, wooden beds, spick- away. The garden is really enchanting, with
Kiroftu Resort & Spa.....................9 A1
7
and-span bathrooms, a sauna, a pool and lots of greenery. Foodwise it dishes up the
Seven E Hotel............................10 C2
Market
spectacular lake views thrown in for good usual suspects at reasonable prices.
16
EATING
See Enlargement
measure. It s about 4km north of the centre, Family Restaurant & Bar (%0114 338066; mains
Dreamland Family Resort...........11 C2
Eshet Pastry & Fast Food............12 C2
perched above Lake Kiroftu. Birr25-45; hweekend) Surprise: this place is mod-
Family Restaurant & Bar.............13 B2
Train
3 Babugaya Hotele (%0114 331155; r Birr50) This elled on an American bar and serves Tex-Mex
Genet Restaurant.......................14 C2
Lake Station
Man Restaurant.........................15 B2
Chelelaka
D D H family-run place has a low-key, easy-going grub. It may push the budget but where else
(Seasonal)
TRANSPORT appeal and the well-tended garden encour- could you grab invigorating nachos, tacos
To Bus Station (1km); Gari Stand..................................16 B3
ages light-hearted chatter. The six rooms and guacamole cheeseburgers? It s next to
Mt Zuqualla (37km);
Lake
To Nazret
Addis Ababa (40km)
Bishoftu
(83km)
are in good nick although the fixtures in the the Defence Engineering College.
D D
E A S T E R N E T H I O P I A
EASTERN ETHIOPIA
216 ADDIS ABABA TO AWASH " " Mt Zuqual l a www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com ADDIS ABABA TO AWASH " " Awash Nati onal Park 217
Man Restaurant (%0114 339858; mains Birr8-15) Getting There & Away school. The dining room boasts unusually (Birr15, 2½ hours). For Debre Zeyit (Birr8,
About 300m past the junction for the Rec- The nearest village to Mt Zuqualla is Mar- bright splashes of colours. one hour), it s best to go to Mojo first and
reation Centre, on the main road. Choice yam Wember, which lies at the foot of Palace Hotel (%0221 113800; s Birr75-115, change, as buses leave there every 15 min-
is limited (pastries, chicken dishes and spa- the mountain, around 25km southwest of d Birr105-150) Palace may be stretching it a tad utes (Birr4, 15 minutes).
ghetti) but there s a tacky mural to keep Debre Zeyit. but it s brilliant value and ideally positioned, When heading south for Bale Moun-
you smiling ( Donuts are fancy , whatever Usually one to two 4WD vehicles travel opposite the bus station. Rooms are nothing tains National Park, go to Asela (Birr7, two
that might mean). Grab a seat in the leafy daily to Maryam Wember (Birr10, up to two fancy but are well scrubbed and serviceable. hours) first and change. For Ziway and the
compound. hours) from Debre Zeyit (more on market Plus, there s a large garden to unwind in. Rift Valley lakes, go to Mojo (Birr4, 15 min-
day on Thursday). From Maryam Wember, Pan-Afric Hotel (%0221 122720; fax 0221 126888; utes) and change.
Getting There & Around it s a 12km walk (three hours up and 2½ Addis Ababa Rd; d Birr75-85) The closest thing
Buses and minibuses leave every 15 min- hours down). Debre Zeyit has to a business hotel, with AWASH NATIONAL PARK
utes for Addis Ababa (Birr4, one hour) and If you re not watching the pennies, your well-looked-after rooms equipped with sat-
Nazret (Birr8, one hour). best bet is to rent a 4WD in Addis Ababa ellite TV and prudish bathrooms. If you Easily accessible from Addis Ababa, Awash
A gari (horse-drawn cart) is a great way (see p282. find that the carpets show signs of wear National Park (admission per person per 48hr Birr50, per
to visit the lakes. They can be hired at the and tear, focus your attention on the cheesy vehicle up to 5 seats Birr10; h6am-6pm) is one of
market, about 800m from the main rounda- NAZRET bunches of fake flowers. Aim for one of the eastern Ethiopia s star attractions and one
bout. Expect to pay around Birr30/60 per pop 224,000 / elev 1712m brighter and quieter rooms at the rear. of Ethiopia s most visited parks. But don t
half/full day. Hops about the town in a local Great churches, ancient monasteries and Adama Makonnen Hotel (%0221 110880; Addis expect Kenyan-style safaris; if you come
minibus cost Birr0.90. sacred relics? You d be forgiven for think- Ababa Rd; s/d Birr95/140) Almost next door to the here to experience the thrill of staring slack-
ing that Nazret has it all. But its name, de- Pan-Afric, on the main Addis Ababa road. jawed at lions crunching through bones,
MT ZUQUALLA rived from Christ s birthplace in Israel, is This concrete blob is certainly not a paean you ll be seriously disappointed. This park
Debre Zeyit also makes a good base from a misnomer, and you certainly won t wax to futuristic architecture but at least it s is much lower-key. Nevertheless, for those
which to explore the extinct volcanic cone mystical in this large, commercial and bus- functional, well maintained and tidy. Some with patience and some time, it offers quite
of Mt Zuqualla. Though only rising to just tling town, lying just 100km from the cap- rooms are more luminous than others, so good wildlife viewing and outstanding
over 600m, the mountain dominates the ital. Its attractions are much more secular: ask to see a few. birdlife viewing. It also contains an inter-
landscape for miles around. On a clear day, it flaunts good accommodation options, so Frank Hotel (%0221 112196; Addis Ababa Rd; mains esting range of volcanic landscapes.
the views from the top are stunning. You if you want to break up your journey, this Birr10-20) Not far from the main square, the The park takes its name from the Awash
can see the Rift Valley to the east and the is a convenient stopover. It s also a popular Frank is indisputably the most popular eat- River, the longest river in Ethiopia. The
lakes to the south; Addis Ababa and the weekend retreat for frazzled Addis Ababans ery in town it can be a squeeze finding river marks the park s southern boundary,
Entoto Mountains are just discernible to in search of tranquillity. a table come dinnertime. It s a little time- then veers north before disappearing into
the northwest. warpish (neon lighting, reddish tablecloth) the remote and desolate confines of the
The crater, measuring 2km across and Information and the faranji (Western foreigner) food is Danakil region. The salt lake, Lake Abbe
over 60m deep, contains a lake that has long Commercial Bank (%0221 111952; h8am-noon & certainly not gourmet but we can t fault the (Lac Abbé) on the Ethiopia Djibouti bor-
been held holy by the monks of the nearby 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 8-11am Sat) On the main roundabout. chicken cutlete (chicken wing) and service der, is the river s last gesture.
monastery. Millenium Internet Cafe (per hr Birr15; h7.30am- is as smooth as its papaya juice. Ignore the
The monastery of Mt Zuqualla Maryam (ad- 9.30pm) Opposite Frank Hotel, in a shopping centre. hotel section it s shabby. Wildlife
mission Birr50) is traditionally thought to have Sunrise Bakery (pastries Birr3-5) Hmm, those BIRDS
been founded by St Gebre Manfus Kiddus Sleeping & Eating damn little corrasants (croissants), eye- Twitchers, rejoice! The park lies on an im-
(see the boxed text, p49 ) in the 12th or Safari Lodge Adama (%0221 122011; r Mon-Fri catchingly displayed, continue to torment portant migratory route between the north
13th century. The site may actually date Birr250, Sat & Sun Birr281; s) Surprise! The hip- us! Spellchecking aside, this snappy place and the south and is littered with an as-
to the 4th century, when a hermit com- pest venture in town is not beyond your is ideal to recharge the batteries, sip a mac- tonishing amount of birdlife. More than
munity may have been established here by financial reach. All the perks of a mellow chiato (Birr2) and watch the world go by. 400 bird species have been recorded in the
St Mercurios. retreat: ideal location, restaurant, Jacuzzi, It s a 200m jog away from the main square, park, among them six endemics: the banded
In March and October large festivities swimming pool and well-designed gardens to the north. barbet, golden-backed woodpecker, white-
are held at the monastery, and pilgrims where you can flake out. And did we men- BM Pastry (Addis Ababa Rd) The day we dropped winged cliff chat, white-tailed starling, thick-
come from miles around to attend them. tion the two well-stocked bars? Just one by, the large dining room was chock-full billed raven and wattled ibis among others.
Try to have your visit coincide with the grumble although it s off the main road, with a rambunctious young crowd watch- Two especially good spots to observe
festivities. the traffic noise is still audible. ing English-league football on a large TV birds are around Filwoha Hot Springs, and
You re welcome to spend the night at Bekele Molla Hotel (%0221 112312; d Birr70-116) screen. It s a good stop any time of the day around the camping grounds near Awash
the monastery, but don t expect the Ritz. On the eastern approach to town, the Bekele for a cup of coffee or a snack. River, where doves, barbets and hoopoes
The guesthouse more closely resembles Molla surprises guests with well-furnished are all seen.
a stable spread with straw. You can also bungalows, prim bathrooms and plenty of Getting There & Away Near the river itself, kingfishers and bee-
camp in the church compound. Any gifts verdant surrounds to mooch around in. At least 20 buses leave daily for Addis eaters are found. On the plains, bustards are
are greatly appreciated by the monks. Bring Some rooms are also housed in a yellow- Ababa (Birr11, 2½ hours). One bus and quite easily spotted, and sometimes secretary
your own food. ish building that resembles an elementary frequent minibuses leave daily for Awash birds and ostriches. Among the many raptors
E A S T E R N E T H I O P I A
EASTERN ETHIOPIA
218 ADDIS ABABA TO AWASH " " Awash Nati onal Park www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com ADDIS ABABA TO AWASH " " Awash 219
are tawny and fish eagles, dark chanting gos- The main gate is around 14km after the FANTALE CRATER 12km from the park gate but facilities are
hawks and pygmy and lanner falcons. town of Metehara, 16km before Awash, Towards the west of the park lies Fantale Cra- rudimentary. This is more a decrepit cara-
if you re coming from Addis Ababa. The ter. With its terrific vistas, total quiet and cool van site than a lodge, with a row of 16 neg-
MAMMALS park headquarters lies 10km southeast of air, it is a great place for a picnic. At the top lected caravans with cold showers (in fact
In the south of the park lies the grassy Il- the main gate. the 360-degree view is phenomenal and the buckets). However, the restaurant (mains
lala Sala Plains, which attracts most of the elliptical caldera, which measures an enor- Birr15 to Birr20) has a terrace that boasts
larger mammals. The beautiful beisa oryx Dangers & Annoyances mous 3.5km in diameter, is an eerie sight. phenomenal views over the gorge and the
is easily seen here (in particular between Walking is discouraged (not allowed) in The local Kereyu people can be seen grazing Arba River. After some early-morning wild-
the park gate and Kereyou Lodge), as are the park. The official explanation is because their animals and growing crops far below. life viewing, it s a fabulous place for a cof-
Soemmering s gazelles. Salt s dik-diks prefer of the carnivores that inhabit the area but, The crater rim lies around 25km from fee, a goulash or a surprisingly well-crafted
the acacia bushes. in reality, robbery from local tribespeople headquarters; it s a two-hour drive as the shish kebab while ogling the fabulous chasm
In the bushland areas, particularly in poses the greater risk. Even if you re with dirt road is very steep and rough in parts below your feet.
the rocky valleys to the north, around the a vehicle, armed scouts (from Birr50 for it s motorable by 4WD only. Hamadryas
park headquarters and in the area known the whole day) are recommended. They can baboons are easily seen. Getting There & Around
as Kudu Valley , greater and lesser kudus, also act as guides. Walking is not allowed in the park, nor
defassa waterbucks (though few in numbers If you re planning to travel in the FILWOHA HOT SPRINGS are bikes or motorcycles. Most visitors hire
now) and warthogs can be seen. Anubis northern region of the park (including Fancy a dip? Head to the Filwoha Hot vehicles or come with a tour, both from
and hamadryas baboons are found in the the Filwoha Hot Springs), the scouts are Springs, in the far north of the park, around Addis Ababa (see p282).
east side of the park as well as around the compulsory. Tribal conflicts between the 40km from the park headquarters. You can A 4WD is necessary for the Fantale Cra-
Filwoha Hot Springs and Fantale Crater. Kereyu, Afar and Itu pastoralist tribes are swim in the turquoise-blue pools. They re ter and the Filwoha Hot Springs, or during
The colobus monkey is found in the river- still common. not as refreshing as they look: tempera- the rainy season (July to September).
ine forest. Leopards, lions, black-backed and Be aware that many of the locals are tures touch 36°C! In the cooler areas of the
golden jackals, caracals, servals and wildcats sensitive about cameras, and may become springs, as well as in the Awash River, croco- AWASH
are also found in the park, but thank your very aggressive if you take photos without diles are found (but they are not present pop 5886 / elev 900m
lucky stars if you manage to spot one of permission. See p266 for tips for photogra- in the hotter areas). Hippos also haunt the Halfway between Addis Ababa and Dire
them they are seen pretty rarely. Striped phers in Ethiopia. Awash River, though they are shy. Dawa, Awash is a good place to get out of
and spotted hyenas are often heard at night. An armed scout is a good idea if you Around the springs, look out for the the bus and stretch. Though Awash won t
The nocturnal aardwolf is also present. leave the campsite during the day, as well doum palms, much appreciated by the local win the award of tourist destination of the
as providing extra security during the night Afar people (who use them to make mats as year, this haphazard town will hold your
Orientation & Information (Birr50 per night). Leaving the vehicle to well as a kind of wine). After 5pm, the area attention for a short stroll. Wax nostalgic at
The park covers an area of 756 sq km and take photos or approach birds is permitted, comes alive with birds. Lions can some- the derelict railway station the railway is
mostly lies at around 1000m above sea level. but it is better to do so with a scout. times be heard at night. Waterbucks and still its raison d ętre and spend a night at
The exception is the dormant volcano of Malaria here is a major problem; make hamadryas baboons are also seen here. the historic hotel nearby. If you re in town
Fantale, which at 2007m dominates the sure that you take adequate precautions You ll need a 4WD to get to the springs. when the old Djibouti Addis Ababa train
centre of the park. (see p373 ). You ll also need to bring all pulls in, it s definitely worth a peek.
drinking water with you. Sleeping & Eating On Monday there is a very colourful
Watch out for both the baboons and the Camping (Birr20) The shady sites along the market that attracts both Kereyu and Afar
AWASH NATIONAL PARK
0 10 km
grivet monkeys, which have become adept Awash River in the area known as Gotu , people. Look out for the Kereyu women in
0 6 miles
camp pillagers. 400m south of the park headquarters, are skins and sandals and with braided hair. The
To Bilen Lodge (30km);
Awash
Gewane (140km);
attractive. Of the six spots, the Gumarre men prefer a carefully shaped Afro, often
Arba
Mille (290km);
Asaita (440km);
Sights (Hippo) site is considered the most engag- ornamented with combs. Animal fat (like a
Galafi (450km)
Camp Site
To see the greatest number of animals, ing. At night you can often hear the noises kind of Ethiopian Brylcreem!) is used to give
come first thing in the morning or late in of hippos, hyenas and jackals, which come it a chic gloss and to keep it in condition.
Filwoha Hot
Springs To Dire Dawa (310km);
the afternoon. At noon, many animals re- to the river to drink. Crocodiles are also Around 600m behind the station lies
Harar (320km)
tire to the shade of the trees. seen here, sunbathing on the banks of the the giddy-deep Awash Gorge, also worth
H H H
Kudu In the same complex as the park head- river. Bring everything you need because a small detour to soak up the vertigo-
Awash
Valley
quarters is a small museum (h6am-6pm) filled there are no facilities. Another option is the inducing views.
Lookout
Sabober Fantale Crater with the usual stuffed animals, plus some area around the Filwoha Hot Springs in the
Plains (2007m)
mildly interesting interpretative materials northern extreme of the park, with its shady Sleeping & Eating
Main Gate
on the area s flora, fauna and people, and fig trees. Note that camping outside these Buffet d Aouache (%0222 240008; d with shared
Metehara Awash
Gorge some useful animal locator maps. Nearby, two areas is forbidden. bathroom Birr20-50, presidentielles r Birr100) There s
Lake
Lookout
HQ &
Basaka
H H H there s a viewpoint over the Awash Falls, Kereyou Lodge (caravan s/d Birr150/200) This something delightfully timeless about this
Museum Kereyou Lodge
To Nazret (95km); Lookout
which are a good spot for bird-spotting. In lodge is a (sad) joke and, at this price, a rip- zany old relic of French railway days (1904).
Addis Ababa Awash Falls
(210km) Gotu
season, when there s enough water, you can off. The setting is absolutely sublime it is It s utterly without frills but it s high on
Camp Sites
have a dip in the falls. perched on the edge of a plummeting gorge, atmosphere, with whitewashed walls, birds
H H H
E A S T E R N E T H I O P I A
EASTERN ETHIOPIA
River
Kessem
Awash
River
s
n
i
a
l
P
a
l
a
S
a
l
a
l
l
I
River
Awash
220 AWASH TO ASAITA " " The Road Nor th to Asai ta www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com AWASH TO ASAITA " " The Road Nor th to Asai ta 221
The road passes through the Yangudi-Rassa Bilen Lodge (in Addis Ababa %0111 508869; Bilen;
THE TRIUMPH OF MAN OVER TOPOGRAPHY
National Park but, frankly, don t expect much tukul s/d US$40/50) If you re in the mood for hush
In the 1890s a man had a dream: to build a railway that would link Ethiopia with French Somaliland
wildlife; there is probably less here than in and seclusion, nothing can beat this hidea-
(present-day Djibouti) 800km to the east. Carved through some of the most inhospitable terrain in
any national park in Ethiopia. If you re way on the edge of Awash National Park.
Ethiopia, the railway was planned to end forever the old isolation of the Ethiopian highlands.
lucky, you might spot ostriches, bustards The 16 traditional-style huts are perched
Each kilometre of line demanded no less than 70 tonnes of rails, sleepers and telegraph poles,
and Soemmering s gazelles. on a mound and boast private bathrooms
as well as massive quantities of cement, sand and water, and food and provisions for an army of
About 150km north of Gewane, the town and electricity. Add US$25 per person per
workers. To keep the costs down, a narrow gauge of just 1m was used.
of Mille won t leave you awestruck but makes day for full board. Various activities can
To cross the difficult terrain, several viaducts and 22 tunnels (one nearly 100m long) had to
a convenient stop if you feel the urge to quaff be organised in the vicinity, ranging from
be built. In the meantime the local Afars, whose territory the iron monster was penetrating, ran
a lukewarm soda and recharge the batteries. a visit to Afar villages to wildlife-watching
horrific raids on the line at every opportunity, stealing building materials and killing workers. It
Around Mille, look out for the little domed excursions. You ll need a private vehicle to
took no less than 20 years to complete.
Afar huts, made from the interwoven leaves get here. It s 52km past Awash Arba. Drive
Since the Eritrean Ethiopian border dispute of the late 1990s, the railway has carried a sig-
of the doum palm, which are light and easy 40km to the north from Awash Arba, then
nificant part of the country s imports and exports to and from the Red Sea port of Djibouti City.
to transport. As for the rolled-up objects take a track on the left for another 12km;
However, its importance is fading these days because of the development of lorry transport,
sold along the roadside, they are mattresses it s signposted. Reservations are necessary.
which is considered much more reliable, and the lack of maintenance.
made from local rushes. About 10km south Contact the Village Ethiopia agency (p283)
Still, this bone-shaking iron horse will appeal to train enthusiasts. Indeed, it s exactly this
of town lies the junction with the road that in Addis Ababa.
uniquely ramshackle quality that is the main source of its charm perversely!
heads west to Bati and Dessie. Parki Hotelli (%0332 230113; Mille; r with shared
Continuing north the road takes you bathroom Birr45) A ramshackle building with
through Logiya, a surprisingly bustling town cell-like, ultrabasic rooms with fan and
humming in the rambling garden and where Ethiopian truck drivers usually over- shared bathrooms that, er, seem to see the
a bougainvillea-draped courtyard. The AWASH TO ASAITA night. Don t expect airs and graces: it s a occasional mop. There s an on-site restaur-
rooms with shared bathrooms are pretty rough-and-ready town, with a herd of seedy ant serving cheap fare.
spare; better treat yourself to a generous- If you re looking for thunderous waterfalls, hotels, brothels and restaurants lining the Nazret Hotel (%0332 500222; Logiya; r with shared
sized presidentielle room, equipped with great rivers and verdant meadows, you ve main drag. About 8km northeast of Logiya, bathroom Birr20) This is usually where UN of-
fan and a giant bath on legs. Meals come come to the wrong place. The endless road it s a shock to come suddenly upon Semera, ficials bunk down when in town, which
in for warm praise (mains Birr12 to Birr30), north to Asaita is more like an Ameri- the new regional capital of Afar. With its is enough to recommend this place on
and Greek, Italian or French-style dishes can highway in Arizona. Think severely quirky mix of barracks, modern apartment the main street. Ask for the more recent
can be ordered in advance. parched terrain, vacuous plains, ferocious blocks and soulless administrative buildings, rooms in the second compound at the
Genet Hotel (%0222 240040; d with shared bath- sun, negligible shade, barren scenery that it looks like a microscopic version of Brasília back. The beds are as lumpy as Thanks-
room Birr40-80, d Birr120) At the eastern end of can send the perpetually curious into a free- emerging incongruously in the middle of the giving s mashed potatoes but a fan and a
town, a stone s throw from the bus station. fall of boredom, and a fistful of unassuming desert except that it s a completely botched mosquito net are de rigueur. The ablution
The Genet features a decent restaurant towns. Be prepared for an almost medita- attempt at creating a new town. Should you block is in decent shape. The food is pretty
and four different types of rooms arranged tive drive that needs a damn-good supply want to explore the lakes around Asaita (see varied (read: pasta, rice and tibs) and you ll
around an airy courtyard where goats and of Amharic pop cassettes. p222), you ll have to stop here to hire a com- sample your meal sitting in front of faded
other farmyard animals can be seen potter- But this remote part of Ethiopia is def- pulsory guide and get a permission paper at posters featuring Sydney s Opera House.
ing about. May we suggest you opt for the initely not to be sneezed at. Crossing this the tourist office (%0336 660488; h8-11.30am & Isn t it cute?
more expensive, but salubrious, rooms? dry-as-a-bone expanse is a fascinating 3-5pm Mon-Fri), near the Justice building. For There are also several shops selling basic
Awash Meridian (%0222 240051; d with shared experience. The journey might be low on some places, you ll also have to hire an armed supplies in most towns.
bathroom Birr15-30, d Birr80) Almost a carbon copy highlights, but is strong on atmosphere, as policeman (Birr100 per day). Disputes over
of the Genet. Steer clear of the cheaper it takes you through the heart of Afar coun- land ownership in the region sometimes re- Getting There & Away
rooms; rather, hole up in the more expen- try. The hauntingly bleak landscape has a sult in violence between the different clans. From Awash, with your own wheels, follow
sive ones, with fan, mosquito net and private peculiar appeal. It s a bit like penetrating a About 10km north of Semera along the the Dire Dawa road for about 5km then
bathroom. There s an on-site restaurant. forgotten world. main road, an easy-to-miss asphalt road turn left at a well-signposted junction.
branches off to the right and leads to Asaita. This is not the road less travelled: count-
Getting There & Away THE ROAD NORTH TO ASAITA less Ethiopian trucks ply this route to and
One bus leaves daily for Gewane (Birr17, From the junction with the Addis Ababa Sleeping & Eating from Djibouti, so be vigilant. The road is in
two hours), three buses go weekly to Logiya Dire Dawa road, you ll first cross Awash If you need to break your journey, the choice excellent condition.
(Birr43, eight hours) via Mille (Birr35, Arba, about 14km to the north, then the fea- of reliable accommodation is very limited. Bus services are fairly infrequent and not
seven hours), and two buses leave daily for tureless town of Gewane. It doesn t warrant Most hotels are spartan and cater primarily really reliable on this long stretch. One bus
Nazret (Birr11, three hours). a lengthy stop but you ll be overwhelmed to Ethiopian truck drivers on their way to departs Awash daily for Gewane (Birr17,
For Dire Dawa (Birr 43, nine hours), try by the stark allure of the dramatic volcano and from Djibouti port. Foodwise, if you two to three hours). Buses run three times
to find a seat on one of the 10 buses that that lords over the surrounding plains. find yourself missing haute cuisine, remem- weekly from Awash to Logiya (Birr43, eight
pass through Awash from Addis Ababa and After Gewane, the country resembles Dji- ber what you re here for: adventure, darlings. hours) via Mille. From Logiya or Semera
Nazret. bouti more and more: arid and desolate. The following places are your best bets. to Asaita, services are more frequent; there
E A S T E R N E T H I O P I A
EASTERN ETHIOPIA
222 AWASH TO ASAITA " " Asai ta www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com AWASH TO JIJIGA " " The Road to Di re Dawa 223
coloured façades, its buzzing atmosphere in Lakes in the region that can usually be crown. As you travel further east towards
OGLING THE AFARS
the evening and its magnificent, proud Afar visited include Lake Gamarri (around 30km the Somali border, the sense of adventure
On the journey north, look out for Afar
inhabitants. It s also a convenient base from from Asaita known for its hundreds of is even more pronounced. Nature-lovers,
men striding along in simple cotton shirits
which to explore the 30 salt lakes in the flamingos); Lake Afambo and Lake Bario (both city types and budding adventurers will
(sarongs), with their famous jile (the curved
area, the volcanic springs and the Danakil near the town of Afambo); and Lake Abbe, all have their slice of heaven in this corner
knives described by the writer Wilfred
Depression. on the border with Djibouti. Lake Abbe can of Ethiopia.
Thesiger) hanging at their side. Many also
Tuesday is Asaita s market day a must also be approached from the Djibouti side.
carry gourds which act as water bottles.
if you re in town. THE ROAD TO DIRE DAWA
Many Afars still lead a nomadic existence,
Sleeping & Eating Going east, the landscape seems to get drier
and when the herds are moved in search of
Information You won t face a dilemma in Asaita. and drier, the temperature hotter and hot-
new pasture, the huts in which the Afars
Note that to visit the surrounding attrac- Basha Hotel (%0336 550119; d with shared bath- ter. It s not too long, though, before the
live are simply packed onto the backs of
tions (including the lakes), you ll need to room Birr20) The best option by far is this road once again starts to snake upwards
camels and carted away. Look out for the
get a permission paper as well as hiring a hotel, a coin s toss from the Commercial from the arid lowlands.
wooden boughs used for the armature,
compulsory guide in Semera (see p220). Bank (there s no sign, so ask around). The This is the heart of Oromo country. The
which resemble great ribs curving upwards
Commercial Bank (h7-11.30am & 3-5pm Mon-Fri, hutlike entrance is a bit off-putting, but the men gathered under ancient trees are at-
from the camels backs. In the relatively
7-11.30am Sat) Changes cash (euros and US dollars). swing-a-cat-sized rooms at the rear are set tending the village assembly. Around the
fertile plains around the river, some Afars
around a pretty courtyard and boast im- Chercher Mountains, the first signs of chat
have turned to cultivation, growing tobacco,
Sights maculate sheets, surprisingly back-friendly cultivation appear; look for the little bushes
cotton, maize and dates. Interclan rivalry is
Do you really want to get back to nature? beds, working (though rattling) fans and with shiny, dark-green leaves planted in
still alive; conflict occasionally breaks out.
Then the salt lakes that are scattered around tolerable shared toilets. The last room at the neat rows.
Asaita are your promised land. This area re- back is the best, with sweeping views over What majesty! As scenic drives go, this
mains one of the most inhospitable corners the Awash River. At night, you can hear road is awesome. As the road begins to
are several daily departures in the morning of the Horn, appearing much the same as the hyenas, and the camels in the camps climb, you re taken through some very
(Birr12, about two hours). when explorer Wilfred Thesiger first laid eyes of the Afar nomads below. Omelettes, tibs beautiful scenery with stunning views; the
From Awash to Logiya, your best bet upon it in the 1920s. The scenery, straight and fresh yogurt are available in the modest last 120km or so of road before the turn-
is probably to hitch a lift with one of the out of Dante s Inferno, can t be more forbid- restaurant at the front. off to Dire Dawa (at Alemaya) is one of
many trucks travelling that way. In Awash, ding. There s a stark, desolate, almost surreal Lem Hotel (%0336 550050; r with shared bathroom the prettiest in Ethiopia. At sunset, eye-
ask around at the petrol stations. The ride beauty. For serious adventurers, this little- Birr20) If the Basha is full, this place makes popping hues saturate the landscape and
should set you back about Birr40. explored territory is something of a holy an acceptable plan B, but the bar at the ignite the imagination of photographers.
From Mille, there s at least one daily bus to grail. Birdlife is another attraction: storks, front is noisy. Other highlights include the markets along
Dessie (Birr20, four hours). From there you flamingos, ibises, vultures and raptors can this route they are among the most col-
can catch a bus to Addis Ababa (see p166). be seen. The journey to the lakes also takes Getting There & Away ourful in the country. Don t miss them. The
There s no public transport to Galafi (the you through very remote Afar country. With Buses and minibuses leave from the main Thursday market at Asbe Tefari is probably
Djibouti border) or to Djibouti City, but it s their dagger slung around their waist in a square. At least five minibuses leave each the most eye-catching. Saturday is market
quite easy to hitch a lift (front seats only) long thin leather pouch, or their rifle poised day for Logiya (Birr10, two hours). There day for many villages in the region if
with one of the legions of trucks that over- over the shoulder, the Afar people, almost are also regular services to Semera (Birr12, you can travel east on this day, do. Many
night in Logiya. The prices we were quoted the only ones capable of surviving in these 2½ hours). One bus leaves daily for Dessie women don their best finery: very colour-
ranged from Birr150 to Birr200 to Djibouti harsh conditions, have acquired the patina of (Birr33, eight hours). ful skirts, headbands, waistband and beads.
City (about eight hours). myth. They have long fascinated European For Djibouti, you ll have to take a bus back Unforgettable!
travellers and explorers, including Thesiger to Logiya. From there, try to hitch a lift (front
ASAITA himself, whose account of the Afar peoples seats only) on the steady stream of trucks DIRE DAWA
pop 14,392 / elev 300m (then known as the Danakils; see p46) en- travelling from Addis Ababa to Djibouti. pop 260,000 / elev 1200m
Gosh, it s a gruelling ride to get to Asaita, countered along the way has become some- At the time of writing there were no The second-most populous town in Ethi-
a cul-de-sac, end-of-the-world town about thing of an epic. It greatly fuelled the Afars 4WDs available for hire in Asaita, and no opia, Dire Dawa never fails to elicit strong
70km east of Logiya. Here you ll instantly already legendary reputation for ferocity. contract taxis. reactions. Some travellers rave about its
feel a last frontier ambience and an over- For those with time and stamina, this remarkably spacious and orderly layout (a
powering sense of exoticism and adventure. remote region can be explored on foot. rarity in Ethiopia, as you ll soon realise), its
At the heart of Afar territory, Asaita prides You ll need to hire an Afar guide (see p220). AWASH TO JIJIGA tree-lined streets, neat squares and colonial
itself on being the bastion of Afar identity Several agencies based in Addis Ababa also buildings, while others think it s the defin-
and culture. organise tours in the area (see p282). This is what you were looking for. Here s ition of utilitarian and self-contained.
Come prepared. The heat is unbearable Note that it takes time to reach the lakes the menu: cities filled with character and Sure, it does lack the charisma of nearby
for nine months of the year. At first glance, and sometimes access is limited because mystery, majestic landscapes that capture Harar, and in the eyes of most visitors it
the town is not especially alluring, with no of security concerns. A minimum of three the mind, and a pervading sense of ex- will always play second fiddle to Harar,
obvious attractions, but it will grow on you days is usually required. Check the situation ploration. If one place had to be singled but you ll soon discover that it has its fair
sooner than you d think, with its chirpy, when you get there. out, it would be Harar, the jewel in the share of beguiling sights and some inviting
E A S T E R N E T H I O P I A
EASTERN ETHIOPIA
224 AWASH TO JIJIGA " " Di re Dawa www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com AWASH TO JIJIGA " " Di re Dawa 225
0 400 m
of agony but was still functional. Best asset
DIRE DAWA
0 0.2 miles
D D D A NOMAD S TOOTHBRUSH
is the restaurant.
AC D
B
Train
If you have you lost your latest model elec- Fasika Hotel (%0251 111260; Kezira; r Birr100)
To Dil Hotel (1km);
Station
Fasika Hotel (1km);
To buses for
tric toothbrush, don t panic! We have the Off the airport road (follow the sign), this
Airport (3km)
Djibouti (400m);
INFORMATION
Ashawa Market
National Tour Operation............... C1 solution a very organic and natural one, is one of the best midrange places, with
1
4
14 19 (500m); Djibouti
Commercial Bank.........................2 C1 City (453km)
3
1 indeed. On the roadside, look out for lit- neat common areas, a façade dripping with
8
Dire Dawa Tele-Center.................3 C1
18
5
Post Office...................................4 C1 tle boys selling local Colgate , the regional bougainvillea, quiet gardens and simple yet
11
13
D D D
1 version of a toothbrush. It is cut from the serviceable rooms.
15
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
KEZIRA
Dire Dawa Market (Taiwan).........5 D1 Mosque Dil Hotel (%0251 114181; Kezira; r Birr150-250) Re-
evergreen shrub Salvadora persica.
2
17
Kafira Market...............................6 C3
With a bit of chewing, the very fibrous member the boarding school when you were
10
SLEEPING
and spongy wood forms into long, strong young? Well, this sharp-edged, concrete
Dire Dawa Ras Hotel....................7 B2
9
bristles . And contained in the wood are lump lying 1.3km from the train station on
Mekonen Hotel............................8 C1
Old Palace
Tsehay Hotel & Restaurant..........9 A2
chloride, various antibacterial agents and the airport road was probably designed by
Beta
Mikael
vitamin C. In other words, the little twigs the same architect. Not really the best place
EATING
D D D
Church
Chat
2 Dini Paradaise............................10 C2
Market are a kind of toothbrush-toothpaste neatly to curl up with your beloved, but the bath-
MEGALA
Mitto Burger & Chicken..............11 C1
Paradiso Restaurant....................12 B3 Mosque packaged as one! rooms are the most sparkling in town and
Tsehay Hotel & Restaurant.........(see 9)
rooms are well equipped.
7
DRINKING Dire Dawa Ras Hotel (%0251 113225; Kezira;
Hospital
Chez Beyou................................13 C1
caravans march in from the Somali desert. r Birr88-220; s) If you re into design history,
Dire Dawa Ras Hotel..................(see 7)
Mekonen...................................(see 8)
A large variety of spices are sold here. There this government-run hotel is definitely worth
Rendezvous Pub.........................14 C1 D D D
is also a thriving contraband market; mer- a peek. It was built in 1964 and nothing
SHOPPING
chandise is brought in from Djibouti ei- seems to have changed since then. The out-
Green Gold Harar Coffee............15 C1
6 ther by night caravans across the remote door pool is a (sad) joke, but the large garden
3
TRANSPORT
frontiers, or carefully concealed in trucks. (full of birds) is a great spot to chill out.
Bus Station.................................16 C3
The best time to go is around 10am. It has
Ethiopian Airlines........................17 C1
16
Sun Travel Agency.....................18 C1
To Harar (53km); some distinct Moorish-style architectural Eating & Drinking
Taxi Stand..................................19 C1 Kulubi (58km);
D D D
Addis Ababa (520km) features; look out for the striking horseshoe Paradiso Restaurant (%0251 113780; Kezira; mains
12
arches that serve as entrances. Birr15-20) Haven t had a slap-up meal for a
Ashawa Market, on the outskirts of town, while? Don t look past Paradiso, the most re-
quarters. So rather than dismiss it, pack an known as Megala, which, with its Arab- sells everything from beard trimmers to de- spected restaurant in town. The menu roves
open mind and investigate the possibilities. ooking houses, has a distinctly Muslim feel. signer watches and baby powder. The nearby from palatable Italian dishes to more trad-
Dire Dawa Market (also known as Taiwan), as itional gut-busters, such as kitfo (minced beef
History Information its name suggests, specialises in cheap elec- or lamb like the French steak tartare, usually
D D D
The great Addis Ababa Djibouti railway Commercial Bank (Kezira; h7.30-11am & 2.30- tronic goods. Both are worth a peek. served warmed but not cooked in butter,
was supposed to pass through Harar, but 5.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30-10.30am Sat) Changes cash and Foreign influence is still in evidence. berbere and sometimes thyme) and tibs. Add
with ever-burgeoning costs, the project was travellers cheques. Look for Arab, French and Italian styles in in friendly staff, wallet-friendly prices and an
falling into difficulties. Then a momentous Dire Dawa Tele-Center (%0251 120908; Kezira; some of the architecture and design. enticing setting an old-world mansion and
decision was taken: to bypass the great Cher- per hr Birr18; h7am-9pm) Diagonally opposite Mitto a veranda and you have a winner.
cher Mountains and keep to the lowlands. Burger & Chicken. An Internet café that also doubles as a Sleeping Tsehaye Hotel & Restaurant (Kezira; mains Birr11-
Instead of passing through the old commer- telephone centre. Mekonen Hotel (%0251 113348; Kezira; r with shared 22) The hotel is thoroughly undistinguished,
cial town of Harar, the railway would pass National Tour Operation (NTO; %0251 111119; bathroom Birr40) A good deal that won t hurt
through a new town, which Menelik chose Kezira; h2-5pm Mon-Fri) Serves as a tourist office. the hip pocket. This faded glory is housed
GENUFLECT AT KULUBI GABRIEL
to call New Harar. In 1902 Dire Dawa as Post office (Kezira; h8am-noon & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, in an old Italian colonial building opposite
it was known locally was born. 8am-noon Sat) Opposite the railway station. the train station. Most rooms (especially
Every year in December, tens of thousands
room 2) have plenty of space to really strew
of pilgrims converge on the little town
Orientation Sights your stuff around, and some have balconies
of Kulubi and its cathedral, Saint Gabriel,
Despite it being a fairly sprawling town, your Dire Dawa s main highlights are its thriving overlooking the square. Shared bathrooms
perched on a hill above town. Pilgrims
chances of getting lost in Dire Dawa are vir- markets. With its Babel-like ambience, the (with cold showers) are a tad scummy but
come to express thanks after the fulfilment
tually nonexistent. It s simply laid out and enormous Kafira Market, in Megala, is the still do the trick. The proximity of cafés and
of a wish, or in the hope of a miraculous
is a breeze to navigate. The town is made up most striking one. Delving into the organ- restaurants is another bonus.
cure. If you re in the area during the festival,
of two distinct settlements, divided by the ised chaos of its narrow lanes is an assault Tsehay Hotel & Restaurant (%0251 110023;
it s well worth a stop.
Dechatu wadi (seasonal river). Lying to the on the senses. This market attracts people Kezira; r Birr60) The Tsehay is a bit of a trek
Frequent minibuses and Peugeot con -
north and west of the Dechatu is the new from miles around, including Afar herd- from the centre but features cleanish rooms
tract taxis connect Kulubi with Dire Dawa
town known as Kezira. On the southern and ers, Somali pastoralists and Oromo farm- set in pleasant, hedged gardens. When we
(Birr10, 1½ to two hours).
eastern side of the wadi is the old town ers; sometimes, around dawn, large camel dropped by, plumbing seemed on the brink
E A S T E R N E T H I O P I A
EASTERN ETHIOPIA
(Seasonal)
Dechatu
226 AWASH TO JIJIGA " " Harar www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com AWASH TO JIJIGA " " Harar 227
0 500 m
but the food shines out at this sprightly once daily (Birr883 one way). It also oper-
HARAR
0 0.3 miles
outfit. Besides tummy-filling pasta, aim ates four weekly flights to Jijiga (Birr480
AC D
B
safely for Ethiopian delicacies such as the one way).
palate-blistering kwanta firfir (strips of Sun Travel Agency (%0251 114059; Kezira) is
INFORMATION Ras Makonnen's Palace..............(see 7) DRINKING
Canal Internet Cafe..................(see 27) Ras Tafari's House......................15 C3 Ali Bal Café................................31 C3
beef rubbed in chilli, butter, salt and ber- an agent for Djibouti Airlines. Flights de-
Commercial Bank.........................1 B3 Recycling Market........................ B3 Bar Cottage................................32 C3
16
bere then usually hung up and dried; served part four times weekly for Djibouti City 1
Internet Cafe Ras Hotel............(see 23) Rimbaud's House & Museum.....17 D3 GC Pub....................................(see 33)
Speedy Laundry...........................2 A4 St Mary Catholic Church............18 D3 Samsun Hotel............................33 C3
with torn-up injera), zilzil tibs (strips of and cost Birr780 one way, plus US$20 for
Tourist Office...............................3 B3 Sheikh Abadir's Tomb................19 D4
beef, fried and served slightly crunchy departure tax.
Smugglers' Market.....................20 B3 ENTERTAINMENT
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Tomb of Said Ali Hamdogn........21 C3 National Hotel............................34 B3
with awazi sauce), or the delicious vegetar-
Asma'addin Bari Market (New Tourist Hotel..............................35 B3
ian combo on Wednesday and Friday. The BUS
Market)...................................4 C4 SLEEPING
Emir Nur's Tomb..........................5 C3 Belayneh Hotel..........................22 C4 SHOPPING
menu is in Amharic only, which is not a bad Four buses run daily to Addis Ababa (Birr54,
Gidir Magala (Main Market)........6 D3 Ras Hotel...................................23 A3 Fatuma Safir Ahmed..................36 D3
sign (use p72 to decipher). The leafy garden 12 hours) via Awash (Birr43, nine hours), Handicraft Museum.....................7 D3 Rewda Guesthouse....................24 C3 Nure Roasted Harar Coffee........37 D3
Harari National Cultural Tewodros Hotel..........................25 B3 Zeituna Yusuf Grille's Shop........38 D3
is an added bonus. The waiters are pretty in Nazret (Birr43, 10 hours) and Debre Zeyit
Centre.....................................8 D3
turquoise and inky blue, too. (Birr46, 11 hours). Minibuses run every Hyena Feeding Site......................9 D3 EATING TRANSPORT
Hyena Feeding Site....................10 C2 Alpha Cafeteria & Restaurant.....26 A3 Bus Station.................................39 B3
2
Mitto Burger & Chicken (%0251 111206; Kezira; 15 minutes to Harar (Birr10, one hour);
Jamia Mosque...........................11 D3 Canal Cafe.................................27 B3 City Taxi Stand...........................40 C3
Medhane Alem Cathedral..........12 C3 Hirut Restaurant.........................28 B3 Selam Cafe................................41 C3
mains Birr10-25) With its wrought-iron chairs around five to 10 Peugeot contract taxis run
Oromo Market..........................13 D3 Ice Cream Mermaid...................29 C3
with tacky upholstery, (loud) satellite TV daily to Kulubi (Birr10).
Ras Makonnen Statue................14 B3 Rose Cafe & Restaurant ............30 A3
tuned to CNN, blondwood fittings and a For Djibouti, a company runs daily buses
10
nifty mezzanine for a little flirting, this is from Dire Dawa to Djibouti City via Gelille
the closest thing Dire Dawa has to a snug (see p274 for more details).
Football
fast-food joint. If you re pining for Western
28 Field
Fallana
snacks, including pasta and burgers, this is TRAIN
Gate
Mosque
the place to go. Its mango juice, served with Trains head east from here for Djibouti 25 Hospital 18
8
Feres
5
3 37
a slice of lemon, kicks like a mule. City. There are three weekly departures To Rewda Hotel (300m); Magala
11 Erer 13
Selassie
Ras Makonnen 1
32 33 31
7
Abadir Guest House (600m);
Church 12 Gate
Sq
Harar 36
Dini Paradaise (Kezira; mains Birr5-10) Set in a (see p274 ). Tickets can be bought at the Tana Hotel (600m); 17
41
Gate 29 40
Dire Dawa (53km)
Sitti Alawiyya Mosque
20
3
14 15
large garden dripping with bougainvillea, train station.
39
Arch 27
24 6
30 Shoa 21
Walled City
23
H H Weber Mekina
Dini Paradaise (no typo) is a great place to In principle, the train also runs to Addis H H H
Gate (Jugal)
9
Stationary Girgir
34 35 16
26
38
Shop
escape the heat and dust of the town, relax Ababa but this leg was indefinitely out of
4
Stadium
2
over a cup of coffee or dig into inexpensive service at the time of research.
Buda Gate
22
Sanga Gate
munchies.
19
Rendezvous Pub (Kezira) For a tipple, this Getting Around
rough-and-ready pub near the train station A contract taxi to or from the airport should
4
is worth a try. set you back around Birr40.
H H H
Mekonen (Kezira) The shady terrace of the
Mekonen is an excellent vantage point from HARAR
To Babille (31km);
Jijiga (102km);
where, drink in hand, you can watch the pop 91,000 / elev 1856m
Somaliland (165km)
world go by. Harar is a place apart. Off the southern edge
Chez Beyou (Kezira) After a glass of whisky? of the Chercher Mountains, this sensational
Head to this tiny bar, almost next door to city will shake up and blast your senses. in love with this gem of a city at least East. Right up until 1850, it was home to the
Mitto Burger. With its 368 alleyways squeezed into just we did. most important market in the Horn.
Dire Dawa Ras Hotel (Kezira) The garden of 1 sq km, its countless mosques and shrines, Harar also spearheaded Islam s penetra-
this hotel is a pleasant place for a drink in its coffee scents meandering through the History tion into the Horn. In the 17th and 18th
the evening. streets, its animated markets, its superb Harar is steeped in history. Situated just centuries, Harar become known as an im-
architecture, its charming people and its a few hundred kilometres east of the portant centre of Islamic scholarship. It
Shopping uniquely unforgettable ambience, the old staunchly Christian highlands, Harar, like still holds very special significance for Ethi-
Green Gold Harar Coffee (%0251 101860; Kezira; walled city will make you feel like you re an exotic bird, might have been blown off opia s Muslim population. For years, the
Are you a floating through another time and space. course, either from across the waters of the city was closed to Christians. In 1854 Ri-
h7.30am-noon & 3-5.30pm Mon-Sat)
caffeine-addict? This is the place to stock As if it wasn t enough, an otherworldly Red Sea or from the northern deserts of chard Burton, the famous British explorer,
up. It sells 1kg packets of excellent-quality ritual takes place every night outside the Muslim North Africa. was the first non-Muslim to penetrate the
Ethiopian coffee for Birr25. walls: men feed hyenas. Don t be confused: For centuries, as a crossroads for every city. Later the bustling commercial town at-
it s not a touristy show, it s a tradition. conceivable commerce, the town boomed, tracted many foreign merchants from India,
Getting There & Away A bit like Zanzibar, Harar is a place that great dynasties of rich and powerful mer- Armenia, England and France. The famous
AIR appeals to both spiritual seekers and he- chants grew up and the arts flourished. French poet Arthur Rimbaud (p229) spent
Ethiopian Airlines (%0251 113069; Kezira) flies be- donists. Despite its shortcomings (read: Harar became a kind of commercial meet- some of his last years here. In 1887 the city
tween Dire Dawa and Addis Ababa at least poverty and minor hassles), you ll fall ing point of Africa, India and the Middle surrendered to the Emperor Menelik, who
E A S T E R N E T H I O P I A
EASTERN ETHIOPIA
228 AWASH TO JIJIGA " " Harar www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com AWASH TO JIJIGA " " Harar 229
you re in doubt ask to see ID. There s no of- original ones (which date from the 16th cen-
CHAT, ANYONE?
ficial price, but Birr100/200 per half/full day tury). An exploration of the old walled town
Some travellers love it, others loathe it. To be frank, we loathe it, as the unpleasant bitterness
is fair. One guide that can be particularly rec- (known locally as Jugal) begins at the main
and texture of Catha edulis Forskal (chat) continues to haunt us. A natural and mildly intoxicating
ommended is Abdul. If he is not available, he gate. This is known as the Harar Gate or Duke s
stimulant, chat has been consumed for centuries in many eastern and southern African countries
will direct you to other competent guides. Gate, after the first Duke of Harar, Ras Ma-
as well as on the Arab peninsula. Good news: it is legal in Ethiopia. An evergreen shrub averag-
konnen. The nearby Shoa Gate (also known
ing around 2m in height, it is found on warm, humid slopes between 1500m and 2800m and
Sights as Asmae Diin Bari in Harari) is particularly
is actively cultivated in Yemen (where it s known as qat), Kenya (where it s called miraa) and
You can see the major attractions in a day well preserved and boasts superb mosaics.
Ethiopia. Some of the best chat is cultivated around Harar and it s exported the same day or so
(and a night), but two days is better. It s also worth taking your weary bones to the
by truck or by plane to Djibouti and Somaliland.
Buda Gate, which is in good shape as well.
It s an important pastime in eastern Ethiopia, but not on the same scale as, say, Somalia
INSIDE THE WALLED CITY To the north, the Fallana Gate is said to be
or Djibouti where chewing qat has become a national addiction, with serious socioeconomic
Harar s old walled town is a fascinating place the one Richard Burton entered disguised
consequences. For more information, read Eating the Flowers of Paradise, by Kevin Rushby, who
that begs exploration. The thick, 5m-high as an Arab merchant.
followed the ancient route of qat.
walls around town, which stand to this day,
During your stay in eastern Ethiopia, it s not a bad idea to give it a go. Don t expect to be
were erected in the 16th century by an emir, Medhane Alem Cathedral
stoned, however, and take antidiarrhoeal tablets, just in case. At least you ll impress the locals
in response to the migrations northwards Lying off the main square, the rather un-
and, more importantly, your friends when you re back home. But if you just want to get tipsy,
of the Oromo. Within the walls the city is impressive Medhane Alem Cathedral was
believe us: nothing beats a good Harari beer.
a maze of narrow, twisting alleys and lanes, originally an Egyptian mosque, but Haile
replete with historic buildings, including Selassie converted it in the 1940s.
82 small mosques, numerous shrines and
sought to expand and unify his highland Internet Cafe Ras Hotel (new town; per hr Birr24; tombs, as well as traditional Harari houses. Rimbaud s House
empire. The magnificent Adare (Harari) women, Near the middle of the walled city, Rimbaud s
h8am-noon & 2.30-8pm) In the Ras Hotel.
Harar s economic fortunes suffered a ser- Speedy Laundry (new town; h8am-noon & 1-6pm known for their very colourful traditional House is (yet another) building in which the
ious blow at the end of the 19th century Mon-Sat) costumes, add to the appeal. Their dresses poet is said to have lived. It was thought-
when the Addis Ababa Djibouti railway Tourist office (%0256 661763; new town; h8am- usually black, yellow, red or purple are fully restored with the support of the Italian
was diverted to Dire Dawa. To this day, the noon & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) Housed in the Harari People worn over velvet trousers. Many also wear or- and French embassies. Although Rimbaud
city retains a somewhat isolated, inward- National Regional State Trade & Industry building. Mildly ange headscarves. Sometimes they carry huge did live in the city, it is not thought to have
looking feel. The Hararis have their own useful. Some English is spoken. bundles of cloth or baskets on their heads. been here. However, the building houses a
ethnic identity, language and culture. You should be sensitive when trying to photo- new museum (admission Birr10; h8am-12.30pm & 2-
With the new government and the new Dangers & Annoyances graph these women. See p266 for tips. 5pm Mon-Sat) dedicated to the poet, with a series
federal constitution of 1995, Harar won a Water shortages are a major problem in of illustrated panels (mainly in French) about
new victory: a kind of independence, with Harar and can affect the city for two or Gates his life. On the 1st floor, don t miss the excel-
legal recognition as a city-state within the three days at a time. Try not to waste it. A There are six gates in total; two were added lent turn-of-the-20th-century photographs of
Federal Republic of Ethiopia. new project to pipe water from Dire Dawa by the Emperor Menelik in 1889 to the four Harar a fantastic step back in time. Another
is underway, but it will take until 2009 to
Orientation complete it. Power cuts are also a problem;
ARTHUR RIMBAUD A MULTIFACETED GENIUS
Fear not: you can t get lost. Harar s old city quarters are supplied by rota and do
walled town is so compact you ll eventu- without one day a week.
In 1875 an unhappy young man made a decision. Discouraged both by the reception of his poetry
ally come to a major street or wall that will Some travellers have written to complain
in Paris and by increasing financial worries, Arthur Rimbaud, the great French poet, came to a
lead you back to Harar Gate, the main gate. of hassle from children in the walled city.
bitter conclusion: to turn his back on poetry forever. He was just 21 years old.
There are six gates in total. Streets lead from Hiring a guide is the best deterrent (see
In 1876 Rimbaud set out to see the world. In the winter of 1879, in the service of a coffee
each gate and converge in the centre at a bus- following). Watch your wallet in the mar-
trader in Aden (Yemen), Rimbaud achieved a different kind of fame. He became the first white
tling square, known as Feres Magala (Horse ket areas.
man to travel into the Ogaden region of southeastern Ethiopia. In October 1885 he decided to
Market). Radiating out from the square are
risk all his savings on a venture to run guns to King Menelik of Shoa.
a maze of little alleyways and passages. The GUIDES
While in Ethiopia, Rimbaud lived like a local in a small house in Harar. His interest in the Ethi-
main thoroughfare in the walled city runs For your first foray into Harar, it s quite a
opian culture, languages and people made him popular with the locals, and his plain-speaking
from Harar Gate to Feres Megala. good idea to hire a guide and take a turn
and integrity won the trust of the chiefs and the governor of Harar.
New town sprawls west of Harar Gate. round the town s main attractions. Guides
In 1891 Rimbaud developed a tumour on his right knee. Leaving Harar in early April, he en-
also know the location of less-visited cor-
dured the week s journey to the coast on a stretcher. Treatment at Aden was not a success, and
Information ners and the best Harari houses and arts
Rimbaud continued onto Marseilles, where his right leg was amputated.
Canal Internet Cafe (new town; per hr Birr21; and crafts shops. Hiring a guide also deters
By the time of his return, Rimbaud s poetry was becoming increasingly known in France. But
other would-be guides. Later, you can re-
h8.30am-noon & 2.30-8pm) Above Canal Cafe.
he was indifferent to his fame. He died later that year at the young age of 37.
Commercial Bank (new town; h8-11.30am & 1.30- turn to wander unaccompanied.
Rimbaud s poetry has won a huge popular following for its daring imagery and beautiful and evo-
4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8-11am Sat) Near Harar Gate. Changes Currently five official guides work in
cative language. Somebody Else, by Charles Nicholl, is a remarkable biography of Rimbaud s life.
cash (euros and US dollars) and travellers cheques. Harar (and many more unofficial ones). If
E A S T E R N E T H I O P I A
EASTERN ETHIOPIA
230 AWASH TO JIJIGA " " Harar www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com AWASH TO JIJIGA " " Harar 231
room holds changing exhibitions (often old areas (it is the most busy from 2.30pm to region and his tomb still attracts worship- near Sanga Gate in the east of the old town.
photographs or paintings), and there s a 5.30pm). pers seeking solutions to daily struggles: The other one takes place about 200m north
small selection of traditional Adare arts and financial concerns, illnesses, family crises of Fallana Gate. Be sure to establish the fee
crafts. From the rooftop, there s a good view St Mary Catholic Church and infertility. If their prayers are answered, in advance; in principle, you ll be charged
over Harar to the blue Chercher Mountains. Almost opposite Jamia Mosque, St Mary many devotees return to make gifts to the about Birr50 for the show , more if you have
A guide can give a 30-minute tour (he will Catholic Church is a haven of peace and shrine: usually rugs or expensive sandal- a video camera (usually Birr100). If there are
expect a tip afterwards). a good spot if you need to unwind. It s a wood. The tomb has become an important a few of you (say five) Birr25 is sufficient.
Catholic mission dating from the late 19th centre of pilgrimage, especially for those Usually you can expect to see between 15 and
Ras Tafari s House century. The woodcarved door is particu- who cannot afford a trip to Mecca. 20 hyenas. Be there from around 7pm to 8pm
Within pouncing distance of Rimbaud s larly attractive. Emir Nur s Tomb, north of central square, to be sure of seeing the spectacle (though it
House is the conspicuous Ras Tafari s House. is devoted to the ruler who built the city s can go on to 9pm). If you just turn up, you ll
The building has now been taken over by Mekina Girgir walls. It resembles a spiky beehive. still be expected to contribute something.
a local family including a holy man-cum- Leading southeast from Feres Magala, there Some guides recommend hiring a taxi to
herbal healer. A sign declares that the sheikh is a narrow street called Mekina Girgir (Ma- OUTSIDE THE WALLS provide a kind of floodlight for the show
can cure anything from STDs to diabetes, chine Rd). Ambling down this atmosphere- Hyena Feeding (and to assist taking photos).
mental illness and cancer! Past patients ap- laden lane you ll quickly understand why it Are you ready for the thrill of a lifetime?
parently testifying to his success return to was given this name: it s jam-packed with Possibly Harar s greatest attraction is the Other Attractions
look after the holy man, cooking and clean- tailors workshops, hence the name, in ref- hyena men of Harar. As night falls (from No visit to Harar would be complete without
ing for him for the rest of their lives. erence to the sewing machines. If you were around 7pm), the last remaining hyena men wading through the shambolic markets that
The house was built by an Indian trader thinking of a wedding suit, this is the place! (about four) set themselves up just outside sprawl outside Harar Gate and Shoa Gate.
and many of its features, such as the Hindu the city walls. Sometimes the hyena men At first sight this minicity appears to be an
figures on the door, are Oriental. Haile Se- Traditional Adare Houses risk feeding the animals from their own impenetrable latticework of tiny streets and
lassie spent his honeymoon here, hence the Visiting a traditional Adare house is a must mouths you can have a go at this, too, if alleys; on closer inspection it reveals a care-
house bears his pre-coronation name. (see opposite), but you ll probably need a you like! We didn t& The hyena men know ful organisation with different sections. It s a
guide to find one. The easiest house to find, the animals as individuals and call them by great place to ramble. You could start with the
Ras Makonnen s Palace not far from the Erer Gate (known locally the names they have given them. Smugglers Market, southeast of Canal Cafe; it s
Don t expect a fairy-tale castle! This pal- as Argobari), houses the Harari National Cul- Though the tradition of feeding spotted chock-full with goods from Asia. The adjoin-
ace on the main drag is a sharp-edged, tural Centre (admission Birr10; h8am-noon & 2-5pm hyenas like this has existed for no more that ing Recycling Market is a stunner: witness the
charmless, whitish building but it houses a Mon-Fri). This typical Adare house contains 35 years, the ritual is less of a tourist show workmanship and watch men beating metal
Handicraft Museum (admission Birr3; h8am-noon & examples of traditional arts and crafts. than some travellers imagine. The Hararis into every single useful utensil or spare part.
2-5pm Mon-Fri) on the 1st floor nothing flash Several Adare houses also double as have long had a strange relationship with Then elbow your way through the Asma addin
but it s worth popping your head in. You family-run souvenir shops (see p233 ). If the hyena, and some rituals remarkably Bari Market (New Market; also known as the
can also climb to the top floor and soak you don t buy anything, it s customary to similar to this one have existed for at least Christian Market), near Shoa Gate. Look out
up the views. tip the owner for the tour. 700 to 800 years. for the etan (incense) from Jijiga; it s sold for
If you want to see the feeding, just let the famous coffee ceremonies (see p70). The
Jamia Mosque Shrines & Tombs your guide know. One feeding takes place odoriferous spice market is filled with bark,
The Jamia Mosque located just south of Shrines devoted to local holy men or reli-
the central square is Harar s great mosque. gious leaders are even more numerous: over
ADARE HOUSES
The mosque was originally built in the 16th 300 inside and outside the walls no-one
century, though according to local tradi- has yet managed to count them. Many are
A distinct architectural feature in Harar, the gegar (traditional Adare house) is a rectangular,
tion, a mosque has stood on the site since very peaceful, beautiful and well-kept places
two-storey structure with a flat roof. The house is carefully constructed to remain cool whatever
the 12th century, long before the founda- open to both sexes and all religions.
the outside temperature: clay reinforced with wooden beams is whitewashed. Sometimes bright
tion of Harar. These days it has a modern- Southwest of Gidir Magala is the Tomb of
green, blue or ochre murals adorn the façades. A small courtyard conceals the interior of the
ish appearance but remains an appealing Said Ali Hamdogn, a former religious leader of
house from curious passers-by.
sight in its own right. the town. The tomb looks a little like a mini-
The upstairs room used to serve as a storeroom; today it acts as a bedroom. The main living room
ature mosque without the minaret. Local
consists of five raised platforms of different levels, which are covered in well-made rugs, cushions
Gidir Magala legend has it that below his tomb there lies
and stools. Guests and members of the household sit on the platform befitting their status.
Down from Mekina Girgir you ll stumble a well that can sustain the whole city in
The walls are usually painted bright red or ochre, said to symbolise the blood that every Harari
upon the arcades of the Gidir Magala, the times of siege. The sheikh who lives here
was prepared to shed during the resistance against Menelik. Hung on the walls are woven cloths
main market (previously known as the Mus- will probably show you some fragile ancient
or carpets. Eleven niches are carved into the wall. In these, cups, pots and plates made by the
lim market); it s definitely worth a stroll. It Islamic manuscripts. He expects a tip.
Adare women themselves are proudly displayed.
also serves as the city s meat market con- Another tomb that can be visited is Sheikh
After marriage, newlyweds retire to a tiny, windowless, cell-like room that lies to the side of
sider yourself warned if you re squeamish. Abadir s Tomb, near the southeastern point of
the living quarters. They remain there for one whole week, during which time they are passed
On Mondays, Oromo and some Somali the old town. The sheikh was one of the
food and water through a hatch by relatives.
people come in from the surrounding most important preachers of Islam in the
E A S T E R N E T H I O P I A
EASTERN ETHIOPIA
232 AWASH TO JIJIGA " " Harar www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com AWASH TO JIJIGA " " Harar To Ji j i ga 233
roots and twigs used in the preparation of example of resurrection, with spotless, ice creams as well as filling cakes. If you need the best souvenir! There s tours of the roast-
traditional medicine. Make sure you save en- bright rooms with clean bathrooms (hot a vitamin fix, it has refreshing fruit juices. ing and grinding machines in the back.
ergy for the no-less-animated Oromo Market, showers) and satellite TV. There s a bar and In some of the Adare houses in the old
off Erer Gate. With its heaps of vegetables, it s restaurant specialising in Ethiopian dishes Drinking town, the ever-enterprising Adares have set
exotic and colourful by the bucketload. (raw meat, anyone?). Brilliant value. If you re pining for a good, fresh beer, up souvenir shops displaying beautifully
After all this sightseeing, you might need Rewda Hotel (%0256 669777; new town; s with Harar is seventh heaven. There s a smat- made baskets, and silver and amber jewel-
a stimulant to keep your spirits high. What shared bathroom Birr70, d Birr120-150) This recent tering of buzzing watering holes around lery. The house of Fatuma Safir Ahmed, just
about chewing a leaf (or two) of chat? Chat pile won t win any style awards but features town. Among the brands to try are the light north of the main market, is one. Another
markets can be found around most of the well-organised rooms. For budgeteers, the Harar beer, Hakim stout and Hakim, a kind is Zeituna Yusuf Grille s shop, south of the
city gates, except the Buda Gate, as well as singles are pokey but will do for a night s of lager. Sofi is nonalcoholic, designed for market; it s as good as an antique shop.
to the south of Feres Magala. kip. Feeling peckish? There s a pastry shop Harar s Muslims. And of course, you ll keep Amber necklaces and baskets are on sale,
In the centre of Ras Makonnen Sq stands on the ground floor. everlasting memories of the Harari coffee, but bring your sharpest bargaining skills! Be-
an Italianate equestrian statue of the ras Abadir Guest House (%0256 660721; new town; hailed as one of the best in the world; to cause these shops are family-run, they may
(duke), cast in bronze by the well-known r with shared bathroom Birr50-70, r Birr80) Family-run buy, see Shopping, below. not always be open . Knock on the doors.
Amhara artist Afewerk Tekle. Abadir is nothing fancy but is good value if Ali Bal Cafe (Feres Magala, old town) Slap bang
you re not too choosy. in the heart of the old town, this is a good Getting There & Around
Sleeping Ras Hotel (%0256 660027; new town; s/d Birr125/ place to mull over a coffee or sugar-cane All transport leaves from the bus station
Most commendable places are outside the 163; i) The government-run Ras is a cross juice and watch life go by. near Harar Gate. Minibuses leave every 15
walled town. between a boarding school and a psychiatric Samsun Hotel (old town) Don t be confused minutes for Dire Dawa (Birr10, one hour).
Tewodros Hotel (%0256 660217; new town d Birr50- institution. Think Soviet-style décor, over- by the name, it s under the right head- Around seven buses leave for Jijiga (Birr13,
70) Room with a hyena view& No joke you priced rooms, bare corridors and dour staff. ing here. Identity crisis aside, this publike 2½ to three hours) via Babille (Birr8, 45
won t believe your eyes! At night, from the Nab a table on the terrace and keep up your venue is popular at weekends with an ec- minutes). Two buses leave daily for Addis
windows of rooms 15, 16, 117 and 18 (if not spirits with a Harar beer at hand. lectic crowd gulping down glasses of beer. Ababa (Birr55, one day). Tickets for the
renumbered by the time you pop in), you can It s just past Harar Gate. cap ital should be bought from 10am the
watch hyenas rummaging in a garbage dump Eating GC Pub (old town) Almost next door to previous day at the bus station. There are
behind the hotel. It s your very own hyena Hirut Restaurant (%0256 660419; new town; mains Samsun Hotel, this pub-cum-bar works to also several minibuses a day to Addis Ababa
show and a memorable experience. Oh, and Birr15-25) A cheery, authentic place to savour the same formula of booze, reggae beats, a (Birr100, nine to 10 hours). They don t leave
the rooms are well kept and serviceable; some Ethiopian dishes as well as pasta and vari- touch of sleaziness and tight-packed bodies from the bus station but pick passengers up
have hot showers. Ship out if offered the ous grills. Sink your teeth into a superfilling at weekends. Dive in! at their hotel (ask the reception to book the
grotty rooms downstairs at Birr25. The hotel kwanta firfir and knock it all down with a Bar Cottage (old town) Still haven t tried tej ticket for you). Minibus tickets can also be
is just a wee walk from Harar Gate. bottle of Gouder wine, if you re game. The (honey wine)? It s time to get a hands-on bought at the Selam Cafe in the old town.
Rewda Guesthouse (%0256 662211; old town; r with dining room is cosy but the shady terrace is education in this traditionally decked out, Shared/contract taxis cost Birr1/5 for a
shared bathroom incl breakfast Birr200-300) Enter here a sure winner. Service was a tad amateurish dimly lit den. It s a bit nibbled around the short hop about town.
at your own risk: you may never feel like the day we popped in. edges but after a few drinks you ll call this
leaving again! This cocoonlike guesthouse Rose Cafe & Restaurant (new town; mains Birr10- place home. It s best at weekends. HARAR TO JIJIGA
occupies an old Harari house at the absolute 15) The closest thing Harar has to a hip café. When visiting Jijiga, getting there is half the
heart of the old town (ask somebody to show Chow down on various snacks, including Entertainment fun. The stunning 102km stretch of gravel
you the way at Weber Stationary shop, as pasta and burgers, or start the day with an National Hotel (new town) Hallelujah! Live road is one of the most scenic in eastern Ethi-
it s tucked away in a side street). Rest your omelette or scrambled eggs. It also has bait music Thursday to Sunday from around opia, with superb volcanic rock formations,
head in one of the two well-kept rooms, and for the sweet-toothed. The wait-staff in 9.30pm to 2am or 3am. The music is a mix- contoured terrain and a strangely seduc-
marvel at the thoughtfully decorated com- pink complete this very rosy picture. ture of Ethiopian/Middle Eastern pop, with tive, end-of-the-world atmosphere. You ll
mon areas. Throw in the warm welcome of Rewda Café (new town) Drool over the devil- some traditional tunes thrown in. When first pass through the blink-and-you ll-
Rewda, your congenial host, and you have a ish display of cakes and pastries in this sleek not playing, there s football on big-screen miss-it town of Babille, renowned for its el-
winner. Reservations are crucial. venture. It s also a good for breakfast, with a TV much less exotic. ephant sanctuary, but don t expect to get up
Belayneh Hotel (%0256 662030; fax 0256 666222; choice of eggs, omelettes and sandwiches. Tourist Hotel (new town) Another bar-cum- close and personal with some proboscide-
new town; s/d Birr115/138) Popular place with tour Canal Cafe (new town) Near Harar Gate, this club venue, a few doors from the National ans. Unfortunately, the elephants have gone
groups, near the bus station. A little mun- is another treasure-trove for carb-lovers, al- Hotel. A bit brash, but take a bold approach and you re unlikely to see any wildlife.
dane, it offers sizable rooms equipped with though the setting is more down-at-heel. and you should do all right. About 4km from Babille, the road passes
bathrooms that won t have you squirming. Alpha Cafeteria & Restaurant (new town; mains through the Dakhata Valley, now better
If you can snaffle a room with a view of Birr10-20; hlunch) The best place for a cheap Shopping known as the Valley of Marvels. Here, tall rocks
the Christian market, how can you possibly stodge, behind the Shell petrol station. Try Nure Roasted Harar Coffee (%0256 663136; hMon- have been sculpted into strange shapes by the
complain? Steer clear of the restaurant the its Harari soup. Sat) Just thinking about the scents wafting elements. Some are topped by precar iously
fodder is as bland as the dining room. Ice Cream Mermaid (old town) A peaceful refuge from this place makes us swoon. One step balanced boulders, including one that s
Tana Hotel (%0256 668482; new town; r Birr50) from the crowded strip nearby, this hole-in- inside, and you re hooked forever. It sells formed like an arch a very strange vista
This outfit west of the new town is a good the-wall place concocts some flavoursome 1kg packets of excellent coffee for Birr45 indeed. The valley stretches for some 13km.
E A S T E R N E T H I O P I A
EASTERN ETHIOPIA
© Lonely Planet Publications
234 AWASH TO JIJIGA " " Ji j i ga www. l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com 235
JIJIGA
NEXT STOP: HARGEISA, SOMALILAND
pop 60,000 / elev 1696m
We did it, and we won t forget it. If you want
Feeling adventurous? It s time to explore
one of the least-visited corners of the coun- to impress your peers, go to the bus station in
Jijiga and hop on a bus to Wajaale, at the bor-
try. Hop on a local bus from Harar and
der with Somaliland. Every morning a handful
prepare yourself for a taste of mysterious
of rattling buses and minibuses trundle along
Ethiopia. True, there is little to see and less
to do in Jijiga, the capital of the Somali re- the gravel road from Jijiga to the border. It
takes about 1½ to two hours depending on
gion, but its real highlights are its proud
the number of punctures (two, the day we
people, who are unaccustomed to travellers
were here) and costs Birr15. Be prepared to
but are always helpful and kind (in a blunt
be the focus of attention: foreigners still very
way). This is the heart of Somali territory,
and it won t take long to feel that the atmos- rarely cover this route using public transport.
Fewer things will get your heart pumping
phere is noticeably different from the rest of
faster than crossing this border and enter-
the country. Here you can already feel the
flavour of neighbouring Somalia (sorry: So- ing virtually unchartered territory.
To avoid any incident, seek local advice
maliland). Business, including contraband,
on the situation before setting off, both in
is unexpectedly brisk, signs are written in
Harar and Jijiga. For more information on
Somali, women are veiled and Arab-style
Somaliland, use Lonely Planet s Africa on a
mosques dominate the skyline. There s an
Shoestring. See also p275 .
edgy roughness to it, but fear not, gone is
the rather sullen, oppressed atmosphere that
prevailed several years ago. However, it s al-
ways wise to check the situation in Harar. lies 100m off the main road; take the first
left after the Shell station if coming from
Information Addis Ababa.
There s a smattering of Internet outlets in Alem Ayu Hotel (%0257 752814; s/d Birr30/50) A
the vicinity of Adom Hotel, but connections reliable pick, on the main road, about 500m
were very slow when we visited. There s west from the bus station. The beds can be
also a post office and a telecom office. a bit spongy but the rooms fit the bill for
Commercial Bank (h8-11am & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8- an overnight stop.
11am Sat) Changes euros, US dollars and travellers cheques. Djibouti Restaurant (mains Birr15-20) If your
stomach is in knots, this no-frills eatery tosses
Sights up decent fare. Tuck into chicken with rice
The large market is definitely worth exploring. while watching Al-Jazeera. It s signposted.
You can sometimes find intricately woven Rugsan House of Sweets (mains Birr5) A sure
mats as well as silver jewellery and yellow fix for blood-sugar lows, a skip and a jump
amber necklaces. Most of it is little more than from the Commercial Bank. The incongru-
heaps of contraband junk . The camel and live- ous mural featuring the Eiffel Tower at the
stock market is also very interesting. entrance is amusing. It also sells provisions.
Sleeping & Eating Getting There & Away
Being an important administrative and AIR
commercial centre, Jijiga boasts a flurry of Ethiopian Airlines (%0257 752030) flies four
places to stay. Sure, it s more brash than times a week to Addis Ababa via Dire Dawa
glam but it s OK for a night s snooze. (Birr1250 one way). The airport is 3km out
Bade Hotel (%0257 752841; fax 0257 752218; s/d of town.
Birr100/120) The neat, bricklike façade of this
professionally run outfit promises great BUS
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
things but we found the rooms fairly unspec- Around seven buses leave daily for Harar
tacular for the price and the beds a bit too un- (Birr13, 2½ to three hours). One leaves for restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
kind to our creaky joints. It s in a side street Addis Ababa (Birr70, 1½ days); book tickets
only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
running parallel to the main Harar road. the day before (after 1pm).
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
Adom Hotel (%0257 753077; r Birr80) Modest Jijiga is the gateway to Somaliland. See
but clean rooms set round a courtyard. It p275 for details. the above - Do the right thing with our content.
E A S T E R N E T H I O P I A
EASTERN ETHIOPIA
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