� Lonely Planet Publications
294 l onel ypl anet. com EASTERN TUSCANY " " Arezzo 295
AREZZO will the Romanesque epitome of Pieve di
pop 94,700 Santa Maria.
Eastern Tuscany Bombed back to the Renaissance Age during Long a vital Etruscan trading post, Arezzo
WWII, Arezzo may not be a Tuscan centre- later prospered immensely while part of the
fold, but the surviving parts of the historic Roman Empire. The staunch Ghibelline city
centre and its ancillary attractions are wor- was a free republic by the 10th century and
thy competition for any destination in the maintained a firm screw-the-Pope platform
region. Though a day trip from Florence or during lengthy, bloody clashes between the
Don t let the brevity of this chapter fool you. Eastern Tuscany holds some cinematic oh-wow
Perugia is easily achieved, with both accom- emperor and the papacy. The city went into
moments (both aesthetically and celluloid-ally), and with relatively few people bothering to
modations and eating value here being supe- a centuries-long period of decline after being
rior, why would you? A fine meal in one of swallowed whole by the swell of Guelph
venture beyond Arezzo s historic centre, you ll be wowed with plenty of elbowroom. With
its restaurants and an early evening wander Florence in 1384. It was not to experience
most destinations being within pasta-flinging range of the Rome Florence rail line, access
through the charming, if architecturally scat- significant prosperity again until after the
is largely uncomplicated.
tered, centre is worth shifting your bags for a unification of Italy and the arrival of the
night. Furthermore, the city serves as an ideal railroad in 1866.
The curiously sloping Piazza Grande in Arezzo s Etruscan centre  the heart of both the
staging area for a day trip to Sansepolcro or It s the birthplace of the Renaissance poet
city and the region  and the Pieve di Santa Maria, a key example of Tuscan Romanesque
sallying forth to destinations in the Casentino Petrarch, who popularised the sonnet format,
construction, are just a taste of Arezzo s enticements. The city is also the perfect staging
region. penning his verses in both Latin and Italian,
The lopsided, architectural jumble of Pi- and Giorgio Vasari (p46), the prolific painter
area for forays into the countryside. Nearby Cortona wrote the parchment on spectacular,
azza Grande is riveting, particularly from the and architect whose contributions to Renais-
hill-top eyries, offering mind-bending views over the Tuscan and Umbrian plains and beyond
many restaurants and enotecas (wine bars) sance Florence included the Uffizi Gallery,
to Lago di Trasimeno.
on the perimeter offering choice people the Palazzo dei Cavalieri and the tomb of
watching vantage points. The renowned five- Michelangelo in San Croce.
Film location scouts have twice deemed the area a Tuscan superlative recently. Roberto
star fresco cycle by Piero della Francesca in Another illustrious son, born in a nearby
Benigni filmed scenes of his Oscar-winning film Life Is Beautiful in Arezzo and Cortona, while
the Chiesa di San Francesco will beguile, village, is comic actor and director Roberto
Audrey Wells chose Cortona for some scenes from Under the Tuscan Sun.
whether you adore art or just endure it, as Benigni, who created and starred in the Oscar-
winning film, Life Is Beautiful. Locations used
The Piero della Francesca art trail arguably peaks with his fresco cycle of the Legend of the
in the film are marked throughout Arezzo by
EASTERN TUSCANY
True Cross in Arezzo s Chiesa di San Francesco, but a definitive and enormously worthwhile
0 20 km signs featuring stills and dialogue in Italian
0 12 miles
and English.
build-up requires stops in the quietly satisfying towns of Sansepolcro and Monterchi.
To Forli
SS310
(27km)
The undeservedly obscure hill country of the Casentino is a lush forested landscape, mak- Emilia-Romagna Orientation
HH
From the train station on the southern edge
ing for a low-key drive with copious photo-ops, in between its assortment of minor castles Parco Nazionale delle
Foreste Casentinesi, E45
of the city, pedestrianised, shop-lined Corso
Monte Falterona e
and noteworthy monasteries, including the vast St Francis Sanctuary in Verna.
Campigna
Italia, the town s main promenade, leads to
M Falterona
(1654m) the Piazza Grande, Arezzo s nucleus.
Papiano
HIGHLIGHTS
Camaldoli
Stia Le Marche
Pratovecchio
Badia Information
HH
Prat�glia
Submit to a transcendental and/or wine-induced
SS71
Centro di Accoglienza Turistico (%0575 40 35 74;
C a s e n t i n o
medieval reverie at the Giostra del Saracino in
Verna
Via Ricasoli; h9.30am-6.30pm Jun-Oct, 10am-6pm Nov-
Poppi
Arezzo s Piazza Grande (p297) Bibbiena
SS208
Pieve di May) An alternative tourist office. Hires out audioguides to
Chiusi della
Santo Stefano
Verna
Contemplate the idealised mathematical depiction of Arezzo (adult/child per day Ź 2.50/2) with an accompanying
SS258
Caprese
(or just look at) the subjects in Piero della Francesca s map.
Michelangelo
Loro SS3b
outstanding fresco cycle in the Chiesa di San Franc- Eutelia (Via Guido Monaco 61; per hr Ź 1.50; h9am-
Ciuffenna
Casentino
Sansepolcro
HH
esco (p296) in Arezzo 9pm) Offers internet access & cheap international phone
Anghiari
calls.
Explore the back roads of the little-visited Casentino
Umbria
Nuovo Ospedale San Donato (%0575 25 50 01; Via
region (p303), including the massive St Francis Monterchi
Sansepolcro
Arezzo
A1 SS73 A de Gasperi) Hospital outside the city walls.
Sanctuary (p304)
Arezzo
Police station (%0575 31 81; Via Fra Guittone 3)
Monterchi
Take the Piero della Francesca multicity tour (p301)
Post office (Via Guido Monaco 34)
from Arezzo through Monterchi to Sansepolcro
Castiglion
Tourist office (%0575 2 08 39; www.apt.arezzo.it; Pi-
Fiorentino
SS73
Soak in the Etruscan heritage of Cortona (p305), as-
Castello di E45 azza della Repubblica 28;h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Apr-Sep,
Monte San
Montecchio
cending its storybook streets and enjoying the superb Savino
10am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun Oct-Mar) Has
Cortona SS71
countryside views Cortona
a representative from tour operator Colori Toscani onsite
who can arrange accommodation and tours free of charge.
E A S T E R N T U S C A N Y
EASTERN TUSCANY
Alpe di S
Benedetto
Alpe
della
Luna
296 EASTERN TUSCANY " " Arezzo l onel ypl anet. com l onel ypl anet. com EASTERN TUSCANY " " Arezzo 297
Sights being rediscovered by Helena, mother of the amassed by the man who founded the Arezzo
COMBINED TICKET
CHIESA DI SAN FRANCESCO emperor Constantine; behind her, the city of antiques fair.
You can buy a combined ticket (Ź 12) giving
Gracing the apse of this 14th-century church Jerusalem is represented by a medieval view
entry to the Piero della Francesca frescoes
(Piazza San Francesco; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5.30pm of Arezzo. Even Khosrow, the Persian em- PIAZZA GRANDE & AROUND
in the Chiesa di San Francesco, plus Museo
Sat, 1-5.30pm Sun) is one of the greatest works peror accused of making off with the cross, This cobbled piazza, the venue for the Giostra
Archeologico, Museo Statale d Arte Mediev- del Saracino (p298), is overlooked at its upper
of Italian art, Piero della Francesca s fresco features, ignominiously. Rarely will you get
ale e Moderna and Museo di Casa Vasari, at
cycle of the Legend of the True Cross. Painted a better sense of medieval frescoes as strip end by the porticoes of the Palazzo delle Logge
any of the four venues.
between 1452 and 1466, it relates in 10 epi- cartoon, telling a tale with such vigour and Vasariane, completed in 1573. The Palazzo della
sodes the story of the cross on which Christ sheer beauty. Likewise, art buffs will be struck Fraternitą dei Laici with its churchlike fa�ade, in
was crucified. by Piero s innovations with perspective and the northwest corner, was started in 1375 in
The illustration of this medieval legend, geometric perfection and the stillness he cre- the elements were also conspiring to sully the the Gothic style and finished after the onset
as entertaining as it is inconceivable, begins ated by his lack of naturalism. work. When Piero s Dream of Constantine of the Renaissance. A frenzied antiques fair
in the top right-hand corner and follows the As is often the case, the mere survival of was cleaned up during major restoration, the (p298) is held here on the first weekend of
story of the tree that Seth plants on the grave these frescos has been part extraordinary piece that was formerly thought to be  the first each month.
of his father, Adam, and from which, even- luck, part back-breaking restoration. Dam- realistic nocturnal scene in Italian art turned Via dei Pileati leads to Casa di Petrarca, the
tually, the True Cross is made. A scene on age endured/eluded from fires, earthquakes out to be set at dawn. It was just dirty. poet s former home, which contains a small
the opposite wall shows the long-lost cross and allied bombs notwithstanding, time and You can get some sense of the frescoes museum and the Accademia Petrarca, a li-
from beyond the cordon in front of the altar, brary and research institute devoted primarily
0 400 m but to really appreciate them up close you to Petrarch. Visits are by appointment and
AREZZO
0 0.2 miles
need to plan ahead for a visit with audio guide really only for serious Petrarch fans. Enquire
AC D
B
(%0575 35 27 27; www.pierodellafrancesca.it; admission Ź 6; at the tourist office for more details.
INFORMATION Casa Museo di Ivan Bruschi........8 B3 h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun Apr-Oct, 9am-5.30pm
Centro di Accoglienza Turistico..1 B2 Cathedral...................................9 C2
Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun Nov-Mar). Since only 25 people CATHEDRAL & AROUND
Eutelia........................................2 A4 Chiesa di San Domenico...........10 B2
are allowed in every half-hour, it s essential Arezzo s cathedral (Piazza Duomo; h6.30am-12.30pm
Police Station.............................3 A3 Chiesa di San Francesco...........11 B3
Porta S
1
Clemente
Post Office.................................4 B3 Fortezza Medicea.....................12 C3
to pre-book, either by phone or at any of & 3-6.30pm), at the top of the hill, was started in
Tourist Office............................5 A4 Museo Archeologico................13 B4
Museo Statale d Arte Medievale e the sights that participate in the combined the 13th century, yet was not completed until
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Moderna..............................14 B2
ticket scheme. The ticket office is at Piazza well into the 15th century. In the northeast
Casa di Petrarca.........................6 C3 Palazzo della Fraternitą dei
Casa di Vasari.............................7 B2 Laici.....................................15 C3 San Francesco 4, to the right of the church s corner, to the left of the bulky, intricately
Palazzo delle Logge Vasariane..16 C3
To La Toscana
main entrance. carved main altar, there s an exquisite fresco
Pieve di Santa Maria................17 C3
(200m)
10
Roman Amphitheatre...............18 B4
of Mary Magdalene by Piero della Francesca,
7
Piazza San
PIEVE DI SANTA MARIA & AROUND itself dwarfed in size but not beauty by the
SLEEPING
Domenico
Camera Caf�............................19 A3
14 This 12th-century church (Corso Italia 7; h8am- multitiered, rich marble reliefs of the adjoin-
HH
Cavaliere Palace Hotel..............20 B3
2 1pm & 3-7pm May-Sep, 8am-noon & 3-6pm Oct-Apr) has ing tomb of Bishop Guido Tarlati, featuring
Hotel Continentale...................21 A3
Hotel Patio...............................22 B3
a magnificent Romanesque arcaded fa�ade  a frieze of priests and an acolyte chanting
La Corte del Rei.......................23 C3
FFF
To Camping Le 9 reminiscent of the cathedral at Pisa writ small, while holding a censer, a prayer book and
1 La Terrazza...............................24 B3
Passeggio Cimitero
Ginestre (6km);
Comunale
del Prato Vogue Hotel............................25 B3
Viciomaggio yet without the glorious marble facing  candles.
FFFF
FFF
(11km);
Piazza
Cortona (30km); Duomo where each column is different. Over the cen- Off the north aisle, the Capella della Ma-
Siena (58km);
FFFF
FFF
6
Perugia (75km) tral doorway are carved reliefs representing donna del Conforto has a pair of fine glazed
Piazza S
16
8 32
HH
Francesco 37
FFFF the months of the year. The 14th-century bell terracotta images from the della Robbia work-
12
Piazza del 35 30
15 tower with its 40 apertures is something of shop. On the right as you enter is the tomb
Popolo 17
4 26
11
33
Piazza an emblem for the city. The monochrome of of Pope Gregory X, who died in Arezzo in
25 22 Grande
23
3 Piazza G
the interior s warm stone is relieved by Pi- 1276.
Monaco
34
EATING
28 etro Lorenzetti s fine polyptych Madonna and Up high to the southeast of the cathedral,
3 Buca di San Francesco..............26 B3
Via della Madonna
24 Borgo S Croce
21
del Prato I Tre Bicchieri............................27 B3 Saints, beneath the semidome of the apse. across the peaceful gardens of the Passeggio
27 31
La Tua Piadina..........................28 B3
Piazza S
HHHH
Below the altar is a 14th-century silver del Prato, rears the Fortezza Medicea (admission free;
Agostino La Vigna Trattoria....................29 A4
19 Via
20
38 Roma
Lancia d'Oro............................30 C3
bust reliquary of the city s patron saint, San
h7am-8pm Apr-Oct, 7.30am-6pm Nov-Mar), completed
Produce Market........................31 B3
2
39 36 Donato. Other treasures on display include a in 1560 and offering grand views of the town
Piazza della
Ristorante Logge Vasari...........32 C3
Repubblica
Torre di Gnicche......................33 C3
13th-century crucifix by Margherito di Arezzo and surrounding countryside.
5 29
Trattoria Il Saraceno.................34 B3
Train
and a carved marble bas-relief of the Adora-
18
Station
13
DRINKING
tion of the Magi. CHIESA DI SAN DOMENICO & AROUND
Compagni di Merende.............35 C3
4 Opposite the church is the Casa Museo di The short detour to the Chiesa di San Domenico
Crispi's.....................................36 B4
HHH
Vita Bella..................................37 B3
Ivan Bruschi (%0575 35 41 26; Corso Italia 14; admission (Piazza San Domenico 7; h8.30am-7pm), with its unu-
Parco
TRANSPORT Ź 3;
h10am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-1pm & sual, asymmetrical fa�ade, is a must. Above the
Pertini
Bus Station...............................38 A3
2-6pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar), where you can cast an eye main altar rears a haunting Crucifixion, one
To Sansepolcro
Bus Ticket Office......................39 A4
To Nuovo Ospedale
(38km)
San Donato (Hospital, 450m)
over the varied collection of art and antiques of Cimabue s earliest works, painted around
HHH
E A S T E R N T U S C A N Y
EASTERN TUSCANY
Via
San Domenico
Via Porta San Biagio
Via M Perennio
Via Garibaldi
Via San Lorentino
Via Ma
Via Dovizi
Via XX Settembre
donna
Piaggia di Murello
Laura
Via Sassoverde
Via
Via Ricasoli
Cavour
Via del Orto
Saracino
Via
Via Leone Leoni
Via Porta Buia
Via A Cesalpino
Via F Petrarca
Via G Guinicelli
Via
Via Pellicceria
G
Via de'
Buozzi
Cenci
Viale Bruno
a
ribaldi
Via G
Viale
Mazzini
Corso Italia
Via S Francesco
Monaco
Via Fra
Pietro
Via Fontanella
Guittone
della Francesca
Via G
Via Guido
Garibaldi
Italia
Viale L Cittadini
Via Francesco Crispi
Via Trento e Trieste
Corso
Via Niccolo Aretino
Via Margaritone
Viale Michelangelo
Castro
Via Luca Signorelli
Via Antonio Guadagnoli
Viale Giotto
Via Vittorio Veneto
asaccio
Via M
298 EASTERN TUSCANY " " Arezzo l onel ypl anet. com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com EASTERN TUSCANY " " Arezzo 299
1265. Note too the pair of well-preserved fres- amphitheatre (admission free; h8.30am-7pm Apr-Oct, to Giostra del Saracino (opposite) Held on the second-last Vogue Hotel (%0575 2 43 61; www.voguehotel
coes by Spinello Aretino (1350 1410) at the 6pm Nov-Mar), which once seated up to 10,000 Sunday of June, and on the first Sunday of September. .it; Via Guido Monaco 54; s incl breakfast Ź 108-132, d incl
western end, and, in the south aisle, a statue by spectators. Inside, there s a sizable collection breakfast Ź 138-162; ia) Themed rooms, im-
the della Robbia school of San Pietro Martire of Etruscan and Roman artefacts, includ- Sleeping probably placed showers, classic wood fur-
with a sword cleaving his skull. ing locally produced ceramics and bronzes. Camping Le Ginestre (%0575 36 35 66; www.camping niture, wall-mounted plasma TVs, ceiling
To the west, the Casa di Vasari (%0575 40 90 Among the highlights is the Cratere di Euph- leginestre.it; Via Ruscello 100; per person Ź 8, pitch Ź 6-13; frescos and the occasional wall o Roman
40; Via XX Settembre 55; admission Ź 2; h8.30am-7.30pm ronios, a large 6th-century-BC Etruscan vase, This is the nearest camp site. rock peeking through to remind you where
hyear-round)
Mon & Wed-Sat, 8.30am-1.30pm Sun) was built and decorated with vivid scenes showing Hercules From Arezzo train station, take LFI bus to you really are.
sumptuously decorated (overwhelmingly so in in battle, and, upstairs, an exquisite tiny por- Ruscello and request the camping stop. Hotel Patio (%0575 40 19 62; www.hotelpatio.it; Via
the case of the Sala del Camino, the Fireplace trait of a bearded man executed on glass in La Toscana (%/fax [phone]; Via M Perennio 56; Cavour 23; s/d/ste Ź 130/176/224; pa) This is Arez-
Room) by the architect himself  ring the bell the 3rd century AD. s/d Ź 35/49; p) A little away from the action, La zo s most characterful hotel, with 10 themed
if the door s closed. Toscana is a good budget choice. Its 20 rooms rooms, each dedicated to one of Bruce Chat-
Further west again, the Museo Statale d Arte Activities are clean as a new pin. There s a small garden win s travel books. Each has original furnish-
Medievale e Moderna (%0575 40 90 50; Via San Alessandro Madiai (%338 6491481; at the rear and free off-street parking. ings from the various countries represented,
Lorentino 8; adult/student Ź 10/7; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun) [e-mail]) A passionate cyclist, Alessandro La Terrazza (%0575 2 83 87; [e-mail]; 5th fl, including Australia, Morocco and China.
primarily houses works by local artists. The runs two five-hour bicycle tours, plus overnighters, around Via Guido Monaco 25; d with bathroom Ź 60, s/d without bath- Valet parking is Ź 18.
two small rooms on the ground floor mostly the enchanting southern Tuscany countryside within reach room Ź 40/50) Comprised of apartments on two
contain sculptures from local churches, while of Arezzo. floors, with eight large, bright rooms and a Eating
on the next floor is a display of medieval Centro di Accoglienza Turistico (p295) Their  Room kitchen for guest use, this place is good value. La Tua Piadina (%0575 2 32 40; Via de Cenci 18; snacks
paintings, including works by Bartolomeo 180 shows a 30-minute film about Arezzo (adult/child and welcoming. Alas, acoustically transparent Ź 3.50) A justifiably popular takeaway place hid-
della Gatta and Domenico Pecori, a collec- Ź 2.50/2) in six languages on a 180-degree screen. walls mean an early morning. The compli- den away down a side street, where you can
tion of glazed terracotta pieces by the della mentary breakfast features tasty homemade get a range of hot, tasty piadine, the Emilia
Robbia family, and colourful majolica plates. Festivals & Events cakes. Go down the passage beside Block- version of the wrap.
Upstairs, in addition to works by Luca Signo- Antiques Fair Arezzo stages a huge and highly reputed buster. Cash only. Buca di San Francesco (%0575 2 32 71; www.bucadi
relli and several canvases on the grand scale antiques fair that pulls in over 500 exhibitors and spreads Camera Caf� (%347 032 44 05; nicolette sanfrancesco.it; Via San Francesco 1; meals Ź 23; hclosed
o
by Vasari, the chronology continues into the over the Piazza Grande and surrounding streets on the first [e-mail]; Via Guido Monaco 92; s/d incl Mon dinner & Tue) The walls of this arched and
19th century. Saturday and Sunday of every month. breakfast Ź 40/55; a) Across the street from the vaulted cellar are decorated with frescoes and
Arezzo Wave (www.arezzowave.com in Italian) Over six train station, the dorm room d�cor here is copious religious art in deference to neigh-
MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO & ROMAN days in July, the town hosts this music festival featuring supplemented by cushy beds, fat duvets and bouring Chiesa di San Francesco. It does three
AMPHITHEATRE artists and bands from Italy and abroad. It occasionally terraces with city views. The huge, self-serve church-themed   friar ,  abbot and  prior 
The Museo Archeologico (%0575 2 08 82; Via Marga- includes some top international acts (bill-toppers have kitchen has a gorgeous dining terrace. Some and church-priced menus (Ź 13 to Ź 19). The
ritone 10; admission Ź 4; h8.30am-7pm) is in a former included the likes of Motorhead in 2005 and Sinead rooms have air-con. congenial owner takes indecisiveness as an
convent overlooking the remains of the Roman O Connor in 2006). Hotel Continentale (%0575 2 02 51; www.hotel invitation to usurp control and design a menu
continentale.com; Piazza Guido Monaco 7; s/d Ź 74/108; for you.
A modern, central, three-star Torre di Gnicche (%0575 35 20 35; Piaggia San Martino
pai)
GIOSTRA DEL SARACINO
hotel, with comfy, spotless rooms. There s 8; meals Ź 25; hThu-Tue) Just off the Piazza Grande,
individual internet access in every room, a bar this is a fine old traditional restaurant that
With its origins back in the time of the Crusades, the  Joust of the Saracen is one of those grand,
that tempts you to linger and a roof terrace offers a rich variety of antipasti. Choose from
noisy affairs involving extravagant fancy dress and neighbourhood rivalry that Italians delight in.
with fine views. Valet parking is Ź 15. the ample range of local pecorino cheeses, ac-
Like many such Tuscan folk spectacles, the tournament was revived in its present form in 1931
Cavaliere Palace Hotel (%0575 2 68 36; www companied by a choice red from its extensive
after long neglect. The day begins with a herald reading a proclamation, followed by a proces-
.cavalierehotels.com; Via della Madonna del Prato 83; s/d incl wine list.
sion of precisely 311 people in 14th-century dress and 31 horses. The jousters are then blessed
breakfast Ź 93/135; pa) This is a reliable four- Trattoria Il Saraceno (%0575 2 76 44; www.ilsara
on the steps of the cathedral by the Bishop of Arezzo. It s the highlight of the year for the city s
star choice, barely 200m from the station, ceno.com; Via G Mazzini 3a; meals Ź 25-30; hThu-Tue)
four Quartieri (Quarters), each of which puts forward a team of  knights armed with lances. In
that offers a friendly welcome. Rooms, while With 60 years in business, this trattoria serves
the Piazza Grande, the knights try their hand jousting at a wooden effigy, known as the  Buratto ,
unexciting, are snug, well soundproofed and quality, varied Tuscan fare attracting a lunch
representing a Saracen warrior. In one hand the Buratto holds a shield, etched with various
more than adequate. Hotel parking is Ź 13. crowd that keeps the swarm of servers dash-
point-scores, which the knights aim for while trying to avoid being belted with the mazzafrustro 
La Corte Del Re (%0575 29 67 20; www.lacortedelre ing. The impressive wine collection is hard
basically three heavy leather balls on ropes  which dangle from the Buratto s other hand. The
.com; Via Borgunto 5; s/d Ź 100/130; a) A collection to miss, as it conspicuously lines the walls.
winning team takes home the coveted Golden Lance, bringing glory to their Quartiere.
of six apartments, centimetres from Piazza Pizzas start at Ź 5.
Arezzo s division into Quartieri dates back to at least the 11th century, and there s still a
Grande, harmoniously blending contem- o
Ristorante Logge Vasari (%0575 30 03
strong sense of neighbourhood pride and loyalty, with heraldic flags fluttering from shops and
porary design into elements of the historic 33; www.cittadiarezzo.com/loggevasari; Via Vasari 19; meals
homes, and communal events taking place throughout the year. The Quartieri are named after
building. The Pietro Aretino Suite has an Ź 30-35;
hWed-Mon) This restaurant has a terrace
the four gates of the city, and each has its own distinctive colours. They are the centre of social
ultra-modern bathroom that bleeds right fronting Piazza Grande, two pleasant interior
and cultural life for their inhabitants, throwing dinners, running excursions and generally foster-
into an Etruscan wall. Some apartments have rooms and class that defies stereotypically dire
ing community spirit.
kitchenettes and views of the square.  piazza cuisine . The menu degustazione (Ź 40,
E A S T E R N T U S C A N Y
EASTERN TUSCANY
300 EASTERN TUSCANY " " Nor theast of Arezzo l onel ypl anet. com l onel ypl anet. com EASTERN TUSCANY " " Nor theast of Arezzo 301
including wine) is a parade of flavours and seven daily). For Florence, you re better off
DETOUR: PIERO DELLA FRANCESCA TRAIL
interesting flourishes to local dishes. Let your hopping on the train.
The so-called  Piero della Francesca trail makes for a pleasant day trip, taking in the Valtiberina
server choose the wine  he ll be right. Arezzo is on the Florence Rome train
(High Tiber Valley) during the easy, if somewhat lacklustre, drive from Arezzo to Sansepolcro
La Vigna Trattoria (%0575 35 19 94; Via Spinello 27; line, with frequent services to Rome (Ź 20.50,
and Monterchi.
meals Ź 30-35; hThu-Tue) Choose your meat, then two hours) and Florence (Ź 10.10, 1� hours).
Though many details about his life are hazy, it is believed that della Francesca was born around
watch it sizzle on the giant, open fireplace. Trains call by Cortona (Ź 2.20, 20 minutes,
1420 in Sansepolcro to a privileged family, his father being a successful tanner and shoe-maker,
Apart from possibly the bread, vegetarians hourly).
allowing him to receive a good education and indulge in the study of painting with Sienese-trained
will have little choice here. Less zealous car- Arezzo is a few kilometres east of the A1,
artists in the area. He spent the bulk of his productive life in Arezzo, though he also worked in
nivores are able to choose from the short and the SS73 heads east to Sansepolcro.
Rimini, Ferrara and Rome, returning to Sansepolcro in his twilight years where he died on 12
pizza menu and a selection of homemade
October 1492, the same day that Columbus arrived in the New World.
desserts. NORTHEAST OF AREZZO
By 1439 he was already in Florence where he worked with Domenico Veneziano on frescoes
Lancia d Oro (%0575 2 10 33; Piazza Grande 18-19; In addition to being low-key, agreeable walled
for the hospital of Santa Maria Nuova, while establishing valuable contacts and exposing himself
meals Ź 45; hclosed Sun evening & Mon) A sophisti- cities, Monterchi and Sansepolcro are irre-
to the influential works of Donatello, Brunelleschi, Masaccio and Fra Angelico.
cated place with fresh flowers on the tables sistible enticements for Piero della Francesca
Considering his frequent movements, it is believed that he never belonged to any one work-
where your order is supplemented by excellent enthusiasts. Both are easy day trips from
shop, choosing to work and evolve on his own, making no effort to conform to contemporary
snacks and titbits that arrive unannounced. Arezzo.
trends or styles. Piero s growing distinction revolved around his use of perspective and his skill
There s a jolly, waggish waiter, while the inte-
with backgrounds, creating an overall, salient  serene humanism . He cultivated his methods
rior, painted with swags and green-and-white Monterchi & Anghiari
of applied geometry and mathematical foreshortening for all objects on the canvas at a level
stripes, is like dining in a marquee. It is run Visit tiny Monterchi to see Piero della Fran-
previously unknown, never mind unachievable, to most painters. He eventually ditched painting
by two brothers who also run Logge Vasari cesca s renowned fresco Madonna del Parto
altogether to write several treatises on the subject, most notably De Prospectiva Pingendi (On
(p299), and has a terrace under the loggia that (%0575 7 07 13; Via della Reglia 1; adult/child Ź 3.10/free;
Perspective in Painting). Though it has never been confirmed, it is believed that della Francesca
looks down over Piazza Grande.
h9am-1pm & 2-7pm Tue-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep,
lost his sight near the end of his life.
I Tre Bicchieri (%0575 2 65 57; Piazzetta Sopra I Ponti to 5pm Oct-Mar). Painted in just seven days, the
His most celebrated works include Flagellazione di Cristo (The Flagellation) on display in the
3-5; meals Ź 50-55; hTue-Thu) An upscale restau- Pregnant Madonna is considered one of the
Galleria Nazionale della Marche in Urbino, dubbed  the greatest small painting in the world , the
rant in a little square off Corso Italia, serving, key works of 15th-century Italian art and the
Madonna del Parto in Monterchi, Resurrezione (The Resurrection) in Sansepolcro, and the renowned
among a range of innovative options, dishes only known representation from the period.
Legend of the True Cross in Arezzo s Chiesa di San Francesco (p296 ).
such as roast quail in Chianti and creative The fresco depicts two angels pulling back
John Pope-Hennessy s book The Piero della Francesca Trail (1993) is an interesting source of
fresh pasta options. tabernacle flaps, presenting the Pregnant Ma-
information on the painter and the region.
A veritable produce melee erupts at Piazza donna to a group of believers, thus associating
Sant Agostino s market each Tuesday, Thursday her (a mortal) with God, a sacred no-no in
and Saturday. the 15th-century. As such, the church rou-
tinely destroyed such images, this being one Sansepolcro ORIENTATION
Drinking of the few to survive. To the untrained eye, the pop 16,000 Via Matteotti connects Piazza Torre di Berta
Compagni di Merende (%0575 182 23 68; Logge Vasari gloomy look on her face suggests profound A prototypical Tuscan walled town dating and Piazza Fra Luca Pacioli, with the Duomo,
16) A friendly, unassuming little wine bar with ninth-month misery, but experts assert that from AD 1000, traversable on foot in three Civic Museum and the Palazzo delle Laudi
an unparalleled position, tucked under the this is a pensive moment, as the Madonna, hasty minutes if necessary, Sansepolcro is best .
loggia overlooking Piazza Grande. Enjoy a regarding her stomach, reflects on looming known as the probable birthplace of Piero INFORMATION
plate of cheese or cold cuts, or simply a re- motherhood and the impact her child will della Francesca (see boxed text above). While The newly enlarged tourist office (%0575 74 05
storative glass of wine. have on the world. the surrounding industrial sprawl won t dis- 36; [e-mail]; Via Matteotti 8; h9.30am-
Vita Bella (Piazza San Francesco 22) Opposite the A sensitive touch: pregnant women get free lodge many jaws, the town s medieval heart, 1pm & 3-6pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-5.30pm
Chiesa di San Francesco, Vita Bella is an admission. There are also free medieval music a Roman settlement designed like a castrum Mon-Sat, 9.30am-12.30pm Sun Oct-Mar) is packed with
agreeable place with wrought-iron chairs recitals at 9pm on Wednesdays from June (military defensive position), is pleasing. multilingual information.
where you can sip a Negroni and watch the to August. Parking can be a problem since Reaching its current size in the 15th century
world go by. there s no special provision. and walled in the 16th century, the historic SIGHTS
Crispi s (%0575 2 28 73; Via Francesco Crispi 10/12) A few kilometres north of Monterchi and centre is tightly packed with stone structures The Museo Civico (%0575 73 22 18; www.sansepolcro.net
This is a restaurant (pizzas from around the SS73 lies the pretty medieval village of abutting somewhat less historic structures in in Italian; Via Aggiunti 65; adult/child Ź 6/3; h9.30am-1.30pm
Ź 5.50) that, from 10.30pm, converts into a Anghiari, which is worth a brief stop-off to a pleasant jumble, with delightfully anorexic & 2.30-7pm Jun-Sep, 9.30am-1pm & 2.30-6pm Oct-May) fea-
pub, where you can have an evening tipple meander along its narrow twisting lanes. streets where one guidebook writer s care- tures a couple of Piero della Francesca s mas-
among a primarily young crowd. Some 17km north of Anghiari is Caprese lessly parked car can cause a traffic jam in terpieces. In the Resurrezione (Resurrection),
Michelangelo, birthplace of the great art- seconds. the newly risen Christ stares out at the viewer,
Getting There & Away ist. Within the town s castle is the Museo Sansepolcro s light tourist scene is largely at- banner in hand like a triumphant warrior,
Services from the bus station at Piazza della Michelangelo (%0575 79 37 76; Via Capoluogo 1; adult/ tributed to its thin public transport connections  while his guards slumber. In the splendid
Repubblica include Cortona (Ź 2.80, one hour, child Ź 4/3; h11am-6pm, Sat & Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-6pm only accessible by bus from Arezzo or the ago- Madonna della Misericordia polyptych, the
more than 10 daily), Sansepolcro (Ź 3.30, one Mon-Fri Oct-May), a rather lifeless affair devoted nisingly slow train from Perugia  meaning an Virgin spreads her protective cloak over the
hour, seven daily) and Siena (Ź 5, 1� hours, to the man and his works. overnight will tickle your Tuscan escapism. painting s benefactors.
E A S T E R N T U S C A N Y
EASTERN TUSCANY
302 EASTERN TUSCANY " " Nor theast Of Arezzo Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com l onel ypl anet. com EASTERN TUSCANY " " The Casenti no Regi on 303
There are also works by distinguished Piero Step into any church with open doors, as (meals Ź 29) or Casa Mila (%0575 73 34 77; www Forests: Where the Trees Touch the Sky (Ź 12)
prot�g�es Luca Signorelli, Pontormo, Raffael- they re all lovely, but make a point of calling .casamila.it; Via della Firenzuola 49; s/d Ź 55/70) with both and The National Park of the Forests of Casen-
lino dal Colle and Santi di Tito, whose Riposo at San Antonio church (cnr Via San Antonio and Via del apartments and B&B rooms and a three-day tin, Monte Falterona and Campigna (Ź 7.50).
Durante la Fuga in Egitto (Rest During the Campaccio) which has a magnificent processional minimum stay during high-season. There s a free leaflet in Italian detailing nine
Flight into Egypt) portrays the Holy Family banner with paintings on two sides by Luca short, signed nature walks within the park.
in a tender and humanistic light. Signorelli. GETTING THERE & AWAY For more strenuous hiking, pick up the Carta
Upstairs there s a display of 14th- and 15th- On the second Sunday in September, the SITA buses link Sansepolcro with Arezzo Excursionista, Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
century frescoes, including a haunting portrait Palio della Balestra, a crossbow contest, pits (Ź 3.30, one hour, 20 daily) and several trains Casentinesi, Monte Falterona e Campigna map
of St Sebastian, while the basement holds a costumed archers from Gubbio against San- leave daily to Perugia (Ź 3.95, 1� hours) where (Ź 8.25) at 1:25,000, which features more than
small gathering of archaeological finds and sepolcro s best. you can change to Rome (2� hours). 800km of trails.
ecclesiastical knick-knackery.
About 150m eastwards is the Aboca mu- SLEEPING & EATING THE CASENTINO REGION Camaldoli
seum (%0575 73 35 89; Via Aggiunti 75; adult/child Ź 8/4; Orfeo (%0575 74 22 87; fax [phone]; Viale Armando A tour through the remote forest and farming From Badia Prataglia, go back along the SS71,
h10am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-1pm & 2.30- Diaz 12; s/d/tr incl breakfast Ź 35/60/75) An unremark- region of Casentino takes you through a little- then turn right after 3.5km to head for Ca-
6pm Oct-Mar), dedicated to the history of phar- able, but decent budget option just outside visited area that boasts a couple of still active maldoli and its monastery (%0575 55 60 12; www
macy and herbal medicine, with a re-creation the old town s western gate. monasteries and some wonderful walking in .camaldoli.it; The
h8.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm).
of a 17th-century laboratory. Given the high Locanda Giglio (%0575 74 20 33; Via L Pacioli the Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi, monks managed the forests that still stand
o
ticket price, it s likely to appeal only to those 60; s/d/tr incl buffet breakfast Ź 50/75/100,; pa) and Monte Falterona e Campigna. around the monastery, and developed all sorts
with a specialist interest in things alternative Ristorante Fiorentino (meals Ź 25-30) This exception- La Ferroviaria Italiana (LFI; of medicinal and herbal products. You re free
%0575 3 98 81; www.lfi.it
and pharmaceutical. ally friendly place has been in the same family in Italian), a private train line, runs from Arezzo, to wander about the place and visit the Antica
Just south of the tourist office is the newly for four generations. The four hotel rooms, following the upper reaches of the River Arno, Farmacia (h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6pm). The monks
renovated cathedral. Its most celebrated treas- with their oak floors, underfloor lighting and and serves towns and villages as far as Stia. still make all manner of products, including
ure is the Volto Santo (Holy Visage), a strik- period furniture recovered from the family The rest of the region is only practicably ac- liqueurs, honey, perfumes and chocolate. If
ing wooden crucifix with a wide-eyed Christ, loft, have been imaginatively renovated by cessible with your own transport, for which the monastery s closed, the bar of the Albergo
dating back to AD 950 and one of only three daughter Alessia, an architect/sommelier (see we describe a one-day circuit. Camaldoli opposite sells some of its products,
in the world. Also gawk-worthy are frescoes interview below). Request  La Torre , with a which are also available in other towns in the
by Bartolomeo della Gatta and a polyptych by lovely low bed and the best view. Dad, Ales- Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casenti- region, including Arezzo.
Matteo di Giovanni. sio, still runs the restaurant with panache. nesi, Monte Falterona e Campigna Continue for a further 1.5km, then turn
The Museo della Vetrata Antica (%0575 74 07 The pasta s homemade, and the imaginative This national park (www.parcoforestecasentinesi.it) right and follow signs to the more interesting
82; Via Giovanni Buitoni 9; adult/child Ź 1.50/1), in San menu changes with the seasons (Alessio tells goes over both sides of the Tuscany Emilia- Eremo di Camaldoli. Apparantly, Conte Maldolo
Giovanni church (1126), holds several mod- you with pride that there ll never be a freezer Romagna border, taking in some of the most gave the land for this isolated retreat to St
est stained-glass exhibits wholly eclipsed in his kitchen). scenic stretches of the Apennines. The Tuscan Romualdo in 1012. From the name of the
by a gigantic Last Supper, composed of 25 Also consider Albergo da Ventura (%0575 part is gentler than the Emilian side. count came that of the location, and around
stained-glass panels, measuring 8.48m long 74 25 60; www.albergodaventura.it; Via Niccolo Aggiunti 30; One of the highest peaks, Monte Falterona 1023 Romualdo set about building the mon-
by 4.58m high in total, fashioned by Cecilia s/d incl breakfast Ź 40/60) with five modern, cream- (1654m), marks the source of the Arno. Apart astery that became home to the Camaldolesi,
Caselli-Moretti. coloured rooms and a restaurant downstairs from the human population, including the an ascetic branch of the Benedictines and a
inhabitants of two monasteries, the park is powerful force in medieval Tuscany. You can
also home to a rich assortment of wildlife, visit his wood-panelled cell, the model for 20
THE FAMILY BUSINESS
including foxes, wolves, deer and wild boar, small, tiled houses that are the cells of today s
plus nearly 100 bird species. The dense forests resident Benedictine monks.
Name? Alessia Uccellini
are a cool summer refuge, ideal for walking Retrace your route for 600m, then turn
Where are you from? Sansepolcro, Tuscany, Italy
and also escaping the maddening crowds. The right at the point signed Pratovecchio, which
How do you earn your crust? I work in my family s restaurant (above ) in Sansepolcro.
Grande Escursione Appenninica (GEA) trek- is reached after 16km. The drive itself is a
You are an architect, sommelier and Master in tourism? What keeps you in Sansepolcro? After
king trail passes through here, and myriad delight, the lush forest and superb views easily
a pilgrimage all over Italy  Florence, Verona, Rome and Bologna  my family restaurant keeps me
walking paths crisscross the park. compensating for the energy exerted coping
in Sansepolcro. There was a time in which the family s 200-year-old restaurant and hotel had to
From Arezzo take the SS71 northwards with the bends.
be divided between my father s relatives and so we had to decide whether to sell the business
through Bibbiena and on up to Badia Prat-
or to keep it going. So I decided to save the family business and leave my work as an architect.
aglia, a pleasant little mountain village in the Pratovecchio & Around
But the two jobs are not so far apart. Next year I am taking a university course about the space
Alpe di Serra, near the border with Emilia- Pratovecchio itself is of little interest apart
of the kitchen from the campfire right up to the modern open space and food design.
Romagna. Its visitors centre (%0575 55 94 77; www from its porticoed Piazza Garibaldi. The LFI
Where do you see yourself in 20 years? All over Italy and the world writing books about the
.badiaprataglia.com in Italian; h9am-12.30pm & 3.30-6pm private train line runs through here, with
history of kitchens, food design and working for my restaurant.
Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, 9am-12.30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-12.30pm & 3.30- regular trains connecting Arezzo (via Bib-
What is your favourite place in Tuscany and why? First and foremost is Sansepolcro, of course,
6pm Sun Oct-May) carries a wealth of information biena and Poppi) with Stia.
the reason that keeps me home. My second choice is Florence because I lived there when I was
about the park, including two useful titles in Just west of town you can make a detour to fol-
at university. Third is Isola d Elba because I like the sea.
English: The National Park of the Casentine low signs to the attractively sited Romanesque
E A S T E R N T U S C A N Y
EASTERN TUSCANY
304 EASTERN TUSCANY " " South of Arezzo l onel ypl anet. com l onel ypl anet. com EASTERN TUSCANY " " South of Arezzo 305
0 400 m
Pieve di Romena, then on between the fields said to have received the stigmata, and, in a
CORTONA
0 0.2 miles
to Castello di Romena. This crumbling, mainly sense, it s closer to the essence of the saint
AC D
B
Piazzale
13th-century castle, closed indefinitely for than Assisi itself.
Mazzini
6
safety reasons, has known better days. Erected By car, follow signs just outside Verna for
Piazza
Santa
around AD 1000 on the site of an Etruscan the sanctuary (%0575 53 41; www.santuariodellaverna
17
Via Margherita
Dardano
5
settlement, it was in its heyday an enormous .com; 1 4 22
h6.30am-8.30pm) or take the mildly taxing,
Piazza San
8
complex surrounded by three sets of defensive but agreeable 30-minute uphill hike from the
Piazza Cristoforo
Via Maffei
del Duomo
walls. Dante, says legend, got his inspiration visitor centre in the city. The Chiesa Mag-
20
Piazza
Pozzo Tondo
for the Circles of Hell from observing the cas- giore (also known as the Basilica) has some
7
21
tle s prison tower at the heart of its concentric remarkable glazed ceramics by Andrea della Piazza
Signorelli
defensive walls. An unfriendly overabundance Robbia. Here, you will also discover reliquar-
9 SLEEPING
Piazza
Betania.....................................10 C3
11
of  private property signs discourages explo- ies containing items associated with the saint,
della
18
1 Hotel Italia...............................11 A2
14
Repubblica 25
ration around the castle, but leg-stretching including his clothing that is stained with Hotel San Luca.........................12 B2
13 Via Santa Margherita
19 Hotel San Michele....................13 A2
can be done on the hiking trail leading from blood from stigmatic wounds and the whip
23
Ostello San Marco...................14 C2
2
3
2
the car park down into the valley. with which he used to impose a little self- 24 Santa Margherita.....................15 C2
Giardino
26 Villa Marsili..............................16 C3
del
12
Take the SS310 down the valley to Poppi, discipline.
Parterre
Piazza
then on to Bibbiena. Beside the Basilica entrance is the Cappella Garibaldi EATING
Bottega della Pasta Fresca......... B1
17
della Pietą. From it, the Corridoio delle Stimmate, 15
La Bucaccia..............................18 A2
La Grotta.................................19 A2
Poppi & Bibbiena painted with frescoes recounting the saint s
Gate (Pedestrians
16
Osteria del Teatro....................20 A1
HH
Only)
The most striking town of the Casentino re- life, leads to a cluster of chapels, with a short
Pane e Vino..............................21 A1
10
Ristorante Tonino...................(see 12)
gion is Poppi, perched on a hill in the Arno detour to the cave and the unforgiving slab of
Snoopy's................................(see 21)
plain. It s topped by the gaunt, commanding rock that St Francis called a  bed . At the core
Trattoria Dardano..................... B1
22
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
presence of the Castello dei Conti Guidi (%0575 of the sanctuary, is the Cappella delle Stimmate,
Cathedral................................................4 A1 DRINKING
3 To Camucia Cortona
52 05 16; www.buonconte.com in Italian; Piazza Repubblica beautifully decorated with terracotta works by Chiesa di Santa Margherita.....................5 C1 CaffŁ degli Artisti.....................23 B2
Train Station (4.5km)
Fortezza Medicea...................................6 D1 Route 66..................................24 B2
1; adult/child incl audioguide Ź 6/5; h10am-6.30pm Jul- Luca and Andrea della Robbia. Allow at least
INFORMATION Museo dell Accademia Etrusca................7 A1 Tuscher Bar..............................25 B2
Oct), built by the same counts who raised the an hour to lose yourself in the sanctuary s Polymnia.................................................1 B2 Museo Diocesano...................................8 A1
Telenet...................................................2 A2 Palazzo Casali.......................................(see 7) TRANSPORT
Castello di Romena. seemingly endless series of halls, courtyards,
Tourist Office.........................................3 B2 Palazzo Comunale..................................9 A2 Bus Station...............................26 B2
Interior attractions include a small  ancient frescoes, nooks and lengthy, unsigned dead
prison , a fairytale courtyard, stone staircase ends.
and balcony, the Sala della Feste with its re- privately owned castle is presently closed to nighters will be treated to sensational dusk
stored medieval frescoes and the internation- SOUTH OF AREZZO visitors. and dawn views over Val de Chiana, as far as
ally acclaimed library, containing hundreds Castiglion Fiorentino Lago di Trasimeno.
of medieval texts and manuscripts. The main This commanding hillside village merits a Cortona
attraction, however, is the chapel on the 2nd quick stop off on the route between Arezzo pop 22,600 ORIENTATION
floor, with frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi. The and Cortona. Fought over throughout the With a layout indicative of someone spilling Piazza Garibaldi, on the southern edge of the
scene of Herod s Feast shows Salome appar- Middle Ages for its strategic position, it finally a bucket of  Etruscan town down a hillside, walled city, is where buses arrive. From it,
ently clicking her fingers as she dances, ac- fell to Florentine rule in 1384. rooms with a view are the rule, not the excep- there are sensational views across the plain to
companied by a lute player, while John the Above the main Piazza del Municipio and tion in Cortona. A small settlement when the Lago di Trasimeno. From the piazzale, walk
Baptist s headless corpse lies slumped in the at the highest point of the old town, is the Etruscans moved in during the 8th century straight up Via Nazionale  about the only
corner. Pinacoteca (%0575 65 74 66; Via del Cassero; adult/child BC, it later became a Roman town. In the late flat street in the whole town  to Piazza della
Poppi is home to Casa Ombuto (www.italiancook Ź 3/2; whose 14th century Fra Angelico lived and worked Repubblica, the main square.
h10am-12.30pm & 4-6.30pm Tue-Sun),
erycourse.com), which hosts week-long, highly paintings include works by Taddeo Gaddi. here, and fellow artists Luca Signorelli (1450
reputed (and highly priced), all-inclusive Nearby, the Museo Archeologico (%0575 65 94 57; 1523) and Pietro da Cortona (1596 1669) INFORMATION
cooking courses. Via del Tribunale 8; www.icec-cf.it; admission Ź 3; h10am- were both born within its walls. Telenet (%0575 60 10 96; Via Guelfa 25; internet per
Bibbiena has reasonable transport links to 12.30pm & 4-6.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-12.30pm & 3.30- Avid fans of the film Under the Tuscan Sun, hr Ź 3.50; h9am-10pm May-Sep, 9am-8pm Mon-Sat
the national park. Buses depart from the train 6pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar) has a small collection of local adapted from the book by Frances Mayes, Oct-Apr) A phone/internet shop.
station to both Camaldoli (Ź 1.70, seven daily finds. A combined ticket giving access to both will know that Cortona served as a location Tourist office (%0575 63 03 52; Via Nazionale 42;
Monday to Saturday) and Verna (Ź 2.30, four costs Ź 5/3 per adult/child. for shooting. Though don t go looking to re- h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun May-Sep,
daily), each taking around 45 minutes. A few kilometres further south along the enact the Dolce Vita homage, fountain frol- 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat Oct-Apr)
road to Cortona, you can t miss the Castello di icking bit& The fountain, built especially for
Santuario di San Francesco (Verna) Montecchio, a formidable redoubt that Florence shooting, flowed only for the scene and is SIGHTS
This Franciscan monastic complex is 23km gave to the English mercenary Sir John Hawk- now dry. Piazza della Republica & Piazza
east of Bibbiena in Verna. Of more interest wood (c1320 94) in return for his military The town, with its steep captivating streets, Signorelli
than the Camaldoli monastery to many mod- services. You can see the knight s portrait twisting off at mirthfully impossible angles, Brooding over lopsided Piazza della Repub-
ern pilgrims, it s where St Francis of Assisi is in the Duomo (see p105) in Florence. The can be easily seen in a few hours, though over- blica is the Palazzo Comunale, built in the 13th
E A S T E R N T U S C A N Y
EASTERN TUSCANY
Via
Montanina
Raimondo
Salvatore
Via del
Bistacci
V Sant'
Via Porta
Radi
olo
Via Santa Margheritta
Antonio
Vic
Via Benedetti
Via Roma
Via Dellorto
Via delle Santucce
della Cera
Via Berrettini
Via delle Mura del Mercato
Via
na
Santissima
i
Trinita
Ghibell
Via Maffei
Via
Via
Nazionale
Via G
ino
Via Guelfa
Sev
Viale Cesare Battisti
erini
Via
Umbero Cortoness
306 EASTERN TUSCANY " " South of Arezzo l onel ypl anet. com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com EASTERN TUSCANY " " South of Arezzo 307
century, renovated in the 16th, and once again composition and pathos. In Room 3 there s a one-on-one Italian language courses and sages, wi-fi and mountain bike hire are also
in the 19th. To the north is attractive Piazza moving Crucifixion by Pietro Lorenzetti, and related cultural and social activities for non- available.
Signorelli and, on its north side, 13th-century the star work of the collection: Fra Angelico s native speakers. Hotel San Luca (%0575 63 04 60; www.sanlucacortona
Palazzo Casali, whose rather plain fa�ade was Annunciazione (Annunciation; 1436), one of .com; Piazza Garibaldi 2; s/d incl breakfast Ź 85/120; ai)
added in the 17th century. the most recognisable images of Renaissance FESTIVALS & EVENTS Handy for the bus stop and its proximity to
Inside the palace is the Museo dell Accademia art that by its sheer luminosity leaves all the Giostra dell Archidado A full week of merriment in May free parking, San Luca also has an upscale
Etrusca (%0575 63 04 15; Piazza Signorelli 9; adult/child surrounding works in the shade. Also by Fra or June (the date varies to coincide with Ascension day), restaurant, Tonino. Rooms are generally sat-
Ź 7/4; with trumpeting, parading and neighbourhood rivalry, isfactory, some with magnificent panoramic
h10am-7pm Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar), Angelico and almost as moving is his exqui-
with an eclectic array of art and antiquities, site Madonna. Downstairs the Oratorio is culminating in a crossbow competition first held in the views, though lightly peppered with minor
including Etruscan bronzes, medieval paint- decorated with biblical frescoes by Vasari s Middle Ages. Among other festivities, contestants from the maintenance issues.
ings and 18th-century furniture. One of the workshop. city s traditional neighbourhoods dress up in medieval garb Hotel San Michele (%0575 60 43 48; www.hotelsan
most intriguing pieces is an elaborate 2nd- to compete for the verretta d oro (golden arrow). michele.net; Via Guelfa 15; s Ź 99, d Ź 109-120, incl breakfast;
century-BC bronze Etruscan oil lamp, decor- Chiesa di Santa Margherita & Fortezza Mostra Antiquaria Every year for about a week from
hclosed Jan mid-Mar; pa) This is Cortona s
ated with satyrs, sirens and a Gorgon s head, Scale the steep, quiet labyrinth of cobbled late August into the first days of September, Cortona hosts finest hotel. Primarily Renaissance, but with
weighing in at a hefty 55kg. The Medici Room lanes in the eastern part of town to the largely one of Italy s main antique fairs. elements dating from the 12th century and
contains a pair of early-18th-century globes 19th-century Chiesa di Santa Margherita (Piazza Sagra del Fungo Porcino Held in mid-August this is modifications over subsequent centuries, it s
of heaven and earth, where the cartographer Santa Margherita; h7.30am-noon & 3-7pm Apr-Oct, 8.30am- a similar celebration to the Steak Festival, honouring this like a little history of Cortona in stone. Rooms
takes artistic licence portraying the  Isola di noon & 3-6pm Oct-Apr) where the remains of Saint delectable variety of mushroom. are airy, spacious and exquisitely furnished.
California floating free from the western coast Margaret, the patron saint of Cortona, are on Sagra della Bistecca (Steak Festival) Held on 14 and 15 Parking is Ź 20.
of America. A transitory Egyptian collection display in an ornate, 14th-century, glass-sided August this is a gastronomic celebration, when Giardino del Villa Marsili (%0575 605 252; www.villamarsili.net;
featuring a couple of mummies rounds out tomb above the main altar. Parterre becomes one vast open-air grill. Via Cesare Battisti 13; s/d incl breakfast Ź 110/180; hclosed
the ground floor. Upstairs you can see mate- A sinner-to-saint story if there ever was Nov-Feb; pi) Complimentary drinks each
rial recently excavated from local Etruscan one, St Margaret s early life as a mistress SLEEPING evening, frescoes on the walls and ceiling,
tombs and the 18th-century library contain- and mother to an illegitimate son was trans- Ostello San Marco (%0575 60 13 92; ostellocortona@libero. sparingly, but elegantly antique-furnished
ing some 10,000 volumes, covering a range formed after arriving in Cortona. After a few it; Via Maffei 57; dm/d Ź 13/34, incl breakfast) An HI-affili- rooms with all mod cons and wi-fi in case
of subjects from theology to science. Save the regrettable false-starts with local dreamboats, ated youth hostel a short, steep walk east of you want to email your friends to crow. The
vast new basement exhibit, the pride of the she found her Franciscan groove. Margaret Piazza Garibaldi, this budget option is a run- walk into town is a 15-minute uphill puff.
museum, for last. Well-executed displays of formed her own congregation, opened a hos- down, ill-cared-for place, despite its impres- Parking is Ź 12 per night.
Etruscan and Roman ruins, archaeological pital, received ecstasy-charged messages from sive premises.
models, jewellery, bronze accoutrements, pot- heaven, prophesised the date of her death Santa Margherita (%0575 63 03 36; comunita EATING
tery and mosaics are enriched by multimedia and surrounded herself with the poor, ill, re- [e-mail]; Via Cesare Battisti 15; s/d/tr/q Ź 32/46/56/76) Pane e Vino (%0575 63 10 10; Piazza Signorelli 27; snacks
presentations describing all. Book in advance formed, pious and penitent. She was canon- Run by sweet, obliging nuns from the reli- Ź 6;
hdinner only Tue-Sun) This is a hugely popular
for a guided tour of the museum in English ized in 1728 by Pope Benedict XIII. gious institute, the cloister-quality rooms here dining hall in the centre of town. For a quick
(Ź 5, minimum six people) and three Etruscan It s a stiff climb, but it s worth pushing even are clean, though it s hard to be sure with the snack of regional specialities, go for the piatto
tombs (adult/child with guide Ź 10.50/7.75) in further uphill to the forbidding Fortezza Medi- 40-watt light bulbs used throughout. This is del cacciatore, the hunter s platter of wild boar,
the surrounding countryside. Combined tours cea (%0575 63 04 15; adult/child Ź 3/1.50; h10am-1.30pm a popular place, so call ahead (with Italian deer, goose and turkey. There are more than
of both cost Ź 15/9.50. & 2.30-6pm Apr-Oct). This is Cortona s highest phrasebook at the ready). 500 wines to choose from and most of the
point, with stupendous views over the sur- Betania (%0575 63 04 23; www.casaperferiebetania pasta is homemade.
Piazza del Duomo rounding countryside. .com; Via Severini 50; s with/without bathroom Ź 38/32, d with/ La Grotta (%0575 63 02 71; Piazzetta Baldly 3; meals
Little is left of the original Romanesque char- without bathroom Ź 48/44) Across the road and in Ź 18-25;
hWed-Mon) At the end of a blind alley
acter of the cathedral (Piazza del Duomo), northwest ACTIVITIES the same religious spirit of Santa Margherita. just off Piazza della Repubblica, this is a
of Piazza Signorelli. It was completely rebuilt The tourist office can provide a comprehen- A gated, beautiful, tree-lined entrance, large rock-reliable choice, though the service (and
late in the Renaissance and again, indiffer- sive list of nearby excursions, bicycle hire and garden, great views and onsite church give the opening hours) can be a little haphazard.
ently, in the 18th century. Its true wealth lies walks, including those led by Cortona Well- area a distinct monastic feel. They do dinner Twin-roomed and intimate, it has all the vir-
in the riches within the Museo Diocesano (%0575 ness (%0575 60 31 36; www.cortonawellness.com in Ital- for Ź 14. Off-street parking is Ź 25 per day, tues of a traditional trattoria. If you go for
6 28 30; Piazza del Duomo 1; adult/child Ź 5/3; h10am-7pm ian) who organise guided four- to five-hour though the street is just fine. strong flavours, begin with the melted scrota
Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Nov-Mar) in the former church hikes (per group Ź 30) for groups of two or Hotel Italia (%0575 63 02 54; www.planhotel.com smoked cheese with either porcini mush-
of Gesł. more in the spectacular countryside around /hitalia; Via Ghibellina 5/7; s/d/tr Ź 79/105/135, incl breakfast; rooms or black truffles.
Room 1 has a remarkable Roman sarcopha- Cortona. Trattoria Dardano (%0575 60 19 44; Via Dardano 24;
ai) Italia is in a 17th-century palazzo just
gus decorated with a frenzied battle scene Films are shown at Giardino del Parterre in off Piazza della Repubblica. Standard rooms meals Ź 24; hThu-Tue) Dardano is just one of half
between Dionysus and the Amazons. Here English every Wednesday night. have traditional cross-beamed ceilings and a dozen reliable, no-nonsense trattorie that
and continuing into the adjoining Room 4 are decorated in warm orange tones, while line Via Dardano.
are paintings by Luca Signorelli, including his COURSES each of the unique superior rooms features Ristorante Tonino (%0575 63 05 00; Piazza Garibaldi
Compianto sul Cristo Morto (Grief over the Polymnia (%0575 61 25 82; www.polymnia.net; Vicolo giant bathtubs. Views are breathtaking from 1; meals Ź 30-35; hclosed Mon dinner & Tue) Tonino has
Dead Christ; 1502), a masterpiece of colour, Boni 18), A.K.A. Koine, offers group as well as the roof-level breakfast room. Oriental mas- magnificent views as far as Lago di Trasimeno
E A S T E R N T U S C A N Y
EASTERN TUSCANY
� Lonely Planet Publications
308 EASTERN TUSCANY " " South of Arezzo l onel ypl anet. com www. l onel ypl anet. com 309
from its summer terrace, and specialises in DRINKING
antipasti. Try the ravioli al tartufo e pecorino Tuscher Bar (%0575 6 20 53; Via Nazionale 43; hclosed
(ravioli with truffles and pecorino cheese). Mon) This is a stylish place where you can
La Bucaccia (%0575 606 039; www.labucaccia.it; Via enjoy a coffee or cocktail, and it also does
Ghibellina 17; meals Ź 33) Etruscan cellar ambiance good light lunches.
with appropriate ornamentation: wine racks, CaffŁ degli Artisti (%0575 60 12 37; Via Nazionale
grape press, tiny wine barrels, cheese wheels 18) Across the road and in the same vein, this
and an Etruscan cistern displayed under floor place also has a long menu of typical Italian
glass. The service is indisputably warm, but food and pours a decent pint of Guinness.
agonising slow, even for Italy. Route 66 (%0575 6 27 27; Via Nationale 78) Just
Osteria del Teatro (%0575 63 05 56; www.osteria off Piazza Garibaldi, offering ultra-modern
-del-teatro.it; Via Maffei 2; meals Ź 40; hThu-Tue) Friendly d�cor, lung-vibrating music, hypnotic lights
service, fresh flowers on every table and a and fru-fru drinks.
liberal meting of truffle shavings awaits diners
here. Featured in nearly every Italian gastro- GETTING THERE & AROUND
nomic guide, its walls are clad with photos of From the bus station at Piazza Garibaldi, LFI
actors who have dined here. In summer try buses connect the town with Arezzo (Ź 2.60,
the ravioli ai fiori di zucca (pumpkin-flower one hour, more than 10 daily), via Castiglion
ravioli). Watch your head when the unwieldy Fiorentino.
phallus of a pepperpot is heaved out for ran- Shuttle buses (Ź 1, 15 minutes) run at least
dom seasoning. hourly to Camucia Cortona train station, on
Self-caterers should stock up at Bottega della the main Rome Florence line. Destinations
Pasta Fresca (Via Dardano 29), a glorious little hole- include Arezzo (Ź 2.20, 20 minutes, hourly),
in-the-wall shop that makes its own pasta. Florence (Ź 6.70, 1� hours, hourly), Rome
There s a Saturday market, including farmers (Ź 9.40, 2ź hours, every two hours) and Peru-
products, in Piazza Signorelli. gia (Ź 2.80, 40 minutes, over 12 daily).
The tourist office has timetables and sells
GELATERIE both bus and train tickets.
Snoopy s (Piazza Signorelli 29) Gelato is served in By car, the city is on the north south SS71
generous portions here, starting at Ź 1.50 for that runs to Arezzo. It s also close to the SS75
a small. that connects Perugia to the A1.
� Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
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EASTERN TUSCANY