� Lonely Planet Publications
NEIGHBOURHOODS

Dubai Museum (p61) This low-key museum tells the
Dubai story with minimal fuss and plenty of charm.

Deira Gold Souq (p53) All that glitters is gold (and
occasionally silver) at this colourful market.

Deira Spice Souq (p53) Just follow your nose to the best
buys at this atmospheric souq.

Bastakia Quarter (p61) Get lost in the narrow lanes of
Dubai s old town.

Jumeirah Mosque (p75) The only mosque non-Muslims
can visit  don t miss the regular guided tours.

Burj Al Arab (p75) The world s most extravagant hotel 
you ll either love it or hate it.

Al-Ahmadiya School (p58) This splendid old school
building offers a peaceful retreat from the bustle of Deira.

Madinat Jumeirah (p75) A city within a city, the
Madinat Jumeirah is a Dubai must-see.

Dubai Wildlife & Waterbird Sanctuary (p71) Head to
the flamingo park for a unique skyline view.
What s your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/dubai
NEIGHBOURHOODS
Let s make this absolutely clear. There is no
 Deira and Bur Dubai
excuse for spending your entire holiday lazing
by the pool. It s essential you explore Dubai s
hug either side of the
sights and no, a trip to the Mall of the Emirates
does not count as sightseeing.
Creek and remain the
Long before it began conquering the desert
and the ocean, Dubai centred around the Creek,
heart and soul of the
a 15km inlet that runs through the centre of
town. Deira and Bur Dubai hug either side of city& a five-minute, Dh1
the Creek and remain the heart and soul of the
abra (water taxi) ride
city. They offer something the megaresorts and
gleaming skyscrapers of the new city simply
between Deira and Bur
can t provide  real life. For all the billions of
dollars spent on making Dubai the greatest show
Dubai is still the single
on earth, a five-minute, Dh1 abra (water taxi)
ride between Deira and Bur Dubai is still the
greatest thrill
single greatest thrill in the city.
Deira covers Al-Sabkha, the souqs area;
Rigga and Al-Mateena, in Deira s centre; and
Al-Garhoud, the area between Al-Garhoud Bridge and the airport. Moving from east to west,
there are five ways to cross the Creek other than using public transport. There s Al-Shindagha
Tunnel, close to the open sea; Al-Maktoum Bridge; the very new Floating Bridge (open 6am
to 10pm) near Creekside Park; Al-Garhoud Bridge; and the Business Bay Bridge near Festival
City. Despite the widening of Al-Garhoud Bridge, the introduction of two new bridges and a
road toll, traffic across the Creek is still terrible, especially from 5pm to 8pm on weekdays.
Bur Dubai takes in the area immediately south of the Creek as far as Al-Dhiyafah Rd, from
the sea in the east to Al-Garhoud Bridge in the southwest, including the Shindagha waterfront
area; the Bastakia heritage district; busy Karama; and Oud Metha, the area between Al-Maktoum
Bridge, Wafi City mall and the Grand Hyatt hotel.
Sheikh Zayed Rd begins at the 2nd Za abeel Rd, by the edge of Karama and Bur Dubai, and
heads southwest towards Jebel Ali as far as Interchange No 4. A throng of iconic skyscrapers
including the Emirates Towers, the Shangri-La and the Dusit opened on Sheikh Zayed Rd
during Dubai s growth spurt in the late  90s. Also included here is Al-Quoz, an industrial area
just off Sheikh Zayed Rd that s home to a growing number of art galleries.
Jumeirah is not to be confused with the hotel group of the same name. It s home to several
public beaches, a couple of historical sites and hundreds of luxury villas. The spine of this
sprawling area is Jumeirah Rd, which begins by the flagpole at the end of Al-Dhiyafha Rd and
runs parallel to the coast for about 16km as far as Al-Sufouh Rd, near Madinat Jumeirah. The
road stretches inland a couple of blocks from the sea and takes in a number of areas, including
the three Jumeirah areas (logically named 1, 2, 3), Umm Suqeim (1 and 2), Safa, and so on.
We ve called the rest of the city New Dubai. This area encompasses everything between the
Mall of the Emirates and Jebel Ali, including the Palm Jumeirah and Dubai Marina. With the
exception of a few hotels, everything in this area has been built in the last five years and most
future developments are happening on this side of town. While Deira and Bur Dubai are best
explored by foot, Jumeirah, Sheikh Zayed Rd and New Dubai aren t pedestrian-friendly. If you
don t have your own transport and don t want to waste time waiting for taxis, you can go on
an organised city tour. For information on the options available, see p187.
48
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NEIGHBOURHOODS
NEIGHBOURHOODS RUNNINGHEADB
Khor
Port
Hamriya
al- Mamzar
Al-Qusais
4 km
2 miles
DEIRA
(pp53 60)
Dubai
Airport
Al-Mateena
International
Hor
al- Anz
Deira
Rigga
Al-Ramool
0
0
Port
Al-Ras
Al-Garhoud
Karama
Rashid
Bur
Shindagha
Al-Jafiliya
Dubai
(pp61 70)
Jaddaf
BUR DUBAI
Mankhool
Za'abeel
Ras
Satwa
al-Khor
Jumeirah
Al-Marqadh
(pp71 4)
(pp75 80)
JUMEIRAH
(Under
Safa
The World
Construction)
Al-Quoz
SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD
Umm
Suqeim
T H E
G U L F
Al-Sufouh
The Palm,
Construction)
Jumeirah (Under
(pp81 4)
NEW DUBAI
Corniche
k
e
e
r
C
i
a
b
u
D
HOW TO USE THIS TABLE
ITINERARY BUILDER
The table below allows you to plan a day s worth of activities in any area of the city.
Two days is enough time to explore Bur Dubai and Deira. The area is relatively compact and
Simply select which area you wish to explore, and then mix and match from the corre-
can be covered by foot, with abras (water taxis) or water buses to cross the Creek. Jumeirah,
sponding listings to build your day. The first item in each cell represents a well-known
Sheikh Zayed Road and New Dubai are not so pedestrian-friendly and you ll either need
highlight of the area, while the other items are more off-the-beaten-track gems.
to drive or take taxis. While it s fascinating to mix-and-match the old souqs of Deira with
the beach resorts of New Dubai, the rush-hour traffic on the bridges can be horrendous,
so it makes sense to stick to one side of the Creek at these times of day.
ACTIVITIES Sights Shopping Eating Drinking Sports, Spas & Outdoor Activities
Deira Al-Ahmadiya School (p58) Deira Gold Souq (p53) Aroos Damascus (p109) Issimo (p126) Al-Mamzar Park (p58)
Dhow Wharfage (p58) Deira Spice Souq (p53) Kiku (p108) Ku-Bu (p126) Amara (p140)
Heritage House (p58) Pride of Kashmir (p94) Thai Kitchen (p114) Terrace (p126) Dubai Creek Golf Club (p144)
Virgin Megastore (p94) Verre by Gordon Ramsay Velvet Lounge (p126)
(p107)
Bur Dubai Bastakia Quarter (p61) Amzaan (p96) Bastakiah Nights (p111) Chi@The Lodge (p131) Creekside Park (p67)
Five Green (p97)
Bur Dubai Souq (p66) Fire & Ice (p110) Ginseng (p126) Pharaohs Club (p139)
Karama Shopping Centre (p97)
Dubai Museum (p61) Gazebo (p113) New Asia Bar (p127) Za abeel Park (p68)
Wafi Gourmet (p98)
Karachi Darbar (p113) Troyka (p127)
Sheikh Zayed B21 Gallery (p71) Azza Fahmy Jewellery (p98) Al-Nafoorah (p116) Agency (p127) Dubai Wildlife & Waterbird
Sanctuary (p71)
Road
Meem Gallery (p71) Boutique 1 (p99) Amwaj (p114) Cin-Cin Wine Bar (p128)
1847 (p141)
Third Line (p71) Emilio Pucci (p99) Exchange Grill (p115) Lotus One (p128)
Organic Foods & Caf� (p99) Zaatar W Zeit (p117) Vu s Bar (p128)
Jumeirah Burj Al Arab (p75) Blue Cactus (p99) Lime Tree Caf� (p119) Al-Qasr (p117) Jumeirah Beach Park (p78)
Jumeirah Mosque (p75) Fleurt (p100) Pisces (p118) Bahri Bar (p128) Talise Spa (p141)
Madinat Jumeirah (p75) Mercato Mall (p100) Ravi (p119) Sho Cho (p129) Wild Wadi Waterpark (p143)
S*uce (p100) Zheng He s (p118) Skyview Bar (p129)
New Dubai
Ski Dubai (p142) Aizone (p101) Almaz by Momo (p121) Barasti Bar (p130) Emirates Golf Club (p144)
Ginger & Lace (p101) Nina (p121) Maya (p130) Oriental Hammam (p139)
Mumbai Se (p102) Rhodes Mezzanine (p119) Rooftop Bar ( p130) Softtouch Spa (p141)
50 51
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NEIGHBOURHOODS ITINERARY BUILDER
NEIGHBOURHOODS ITINERARY BUILDER
AREA
DEIRA
Eating p106; Entertainment p125; Shopping p91; Sleeping p151
Dubai isn t meant to look like this anymore. Old, dirty, crowded and chaotic, Deira is a world
away from the slick and sanitised city piercing the clouds at the other end of town. Yet at the
same time, Deira says more about Dubai than any hotel or shopping mall ever could.
It s been a trading centre for centuries. At the Dhow Wharfage, colourful wooden boats that
have spent decades plying the waters between Dubai and Iran arrive with boxes of cuddly toys,
televisions and batteries to be sold at the souqs down the road. At these atmospheric ancestors
to today s colossal shopping malls, you can sip sugary tea and haggle for bargains with traders
who have often worked in the same shop for
decades.
Deira is fascinatingly multicultural. The lan-
guage of the signs on shop windows changes
every 50m, from Tamil to Sinhalese, Malay-
alam, Urdu, Pashto, Tagalog and Amharic.
DEIRA
(Don t worry, everybody speaks a little Eng-

lish.) Adventurous foodies can lap up authentic The Souqs Wander through the souqs, with spicy
fare in the Syrian, Ethiopian, Iraqi and Afghan aromas at the Spice Souq (right), glittering gold at
parts of Deira, and if you re there at night, the Gold Souq (above), and a glimpse of expat life
prepare for a wild ride. You ll find Russian, at the Deira Covered Souq & Naif Souq (p58).
Filipino, Lebanese, Indian and Pakistani night- Al-Ahmadiya School (p58) and Heritage House
clubs, often all on the same floor and typically (p58) Step back in time to discover the simpler life
featuring ear-rupturingly loud house bands, of old Dubai.

overpriced beers and plenty of illicitly seedy Dhow Wharfage (p58) Marvel at how the dhows
goings-on. Sound appealing? Honestly, these manage to stay afloat when there are several cars,
dives are not without their charms; some of the a truck, and a warehouse s worth of electrical
best live music in the city is there for the taking goods on deck.
if you keep your ears, eyes and mind open.
While New Dubai feels like a blend of Sin-
gapore and Las Vegas, Deira feels more like a cross between Cairo and Karachi. The authori-
ties, quite understandably, are keen to revitalise the area, to clean it up and gentrify the poorer
districts. While no right-minded person would want to sustain poverty for the sake of aesthetic
gratification, you can t help but fear the area will lose its unique character. The contrast between
Deira and New Dubai is one of the city s most fascinating features; the striking juxtaposition of
the old and the new, the haves and the have-nots, and the east and the west.
tastic jewellery displays, take a seat on
DEIRA GOLD SOUQ Map pp54 5
one of the wooden benches on the main
On & around Sikkat al-Khail St, btwn Souq Deira &
thoroughfare and note how many differ-
Old Baladiya Sts
ent types of people circulate among the
Even to people not interested in buying
atmospheric wooden-latticed arcades:
gold or jewellery, the Gold Souq is impres-
sun-bothered Europeans shopping for
sive for both its size  there are hundreds
gold, blokes from the Indian subconti-
of shops here  and variety. Every kind
nent selling copy watches and fake DVDs,
of jewellery imaginable is available, from
sweaty Afghan guys dragging heavy carts
gold, diamonds and pearls to elaborate
of goods here and there, East African
Arabian and Indian wedding necklaces,
women in colourful caftans trading some-
bangles and headdresses, to more con-
thing& It s all rather extraordinary.
temporary styles. Some of it is beautiful,
lots of it is incredibly tacky. It s the largest
gold market in the region, and one of the
DEIRA SPICE SOUQ Map pp54 5
largest in the world (with ambitions to
Btwn Baniyas Rd, Al-Sabkha Rd & Al-Abra St
rival Antwerp in diamonds). The passing
The small but atmospheric covered Spice
people parade is almost as fascinating
Souq, once known as the Old Souq, was
as the sheer amount of jewellery. Once
the largest in the region at the begin-
you re done with gawking at the bling-
ning of the 20th century, with over 300
52 53
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NEIGHBOURHOODS
NEIGHBOURHOODS DEIRA
5 km
4
5
6
3 miles
Park
Sharjah
Al-Mamzar
3
Mamzar
Khor al-
To Sharjah Cricket
6
11
E
Stadium (5km)
F
Port
T H E
G U L F
1
Hamriya
2
1
92
D
80
D
Dubai
Airport
SHOPPING
(pp85 102)
Dubai Festival City........................
E4
Toys-R-Us..................................(see 4)
Vintage 55.................................(see 4)
SPORTS & ACTIVITIES
(pp137 47)
Fitness First................................(see 4)
Four Seasons Golf Club................
E4
SLEEPING
(pp149 63)
Dubai Youth Hostel......................
F3
Al-Mateena
International
0
0
Hor
89
D
al-Anz
Al-Garhoud
Rigga
Deira
1
2
3
3
Al-Ramool
(pp47 84)
InterContinental..........................(see 4)
4
5
E
Port
Al-Ras
Rashid
2
Karama
Dubai
Course
79
D
Creek Golf
11
E
Bur
Dubai
Shindagha
Jaddaf
88
D
Mankhool
Za'abeel
6
Syrian Consulate...........................
F3
Converse...................................(see 4)
SIGHTS
Dhow-Building Yard.....................
E3
Marc by Marc Jacobs.................(see 4)
Khor Al-Mamzar...........................
F3
Paul & Joe..................................(see 4)
INFORMATION
4
Ras
Satwa
Al-Jafiliya
al-Khor
Horse
Racecourse
D
66
E
94
D
Al-Marqadh
To Dubai Camel
Racecourse (37km)
Racecourse
Nad al-Sheba
Safa
Park
Park
Beach
Jumeirah
Sheikh Zayed
(Under
C
The World
Safa
Construction)
T H E
G U L F
Jumeirah
Umm
Suqeim
Al-Quoz
B
7
5
11
E
Dubailand (12km)
Global Village (8km);
Arabian Ranches (4km);
To Dubai Autodrome (3km);
Jebel Ali
Racecourse
A
The Palm,
Construction)
Jumeirah (Under
Golf
Club
Al-Sufouh
Emirates
1
Deira (North) pp54 5
2
Deira (South) pp56 7
3
Bur Dubai (North) pp62 3
4
Bur Dubai (South) pp64 5
5
Sheikh Zayed Rd pp72 3
6
Jumeirah pp76 7
7
New Dubai pp82 3
MAP INDEX
2
3
4
1
GREATER DUBAI
j
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0 400 m
DEIRA (NORTH) 0 0.2 miles
INFORMATION SHOPPING (pp85 102)
Al-Maktoum Hospital.................... 1 D4 Al-Ghurair City............................ 15 D4
Heritage &
DTCM Office...............................(see 4) Book Corner...............................(see 15)
T H E
Kan
Diving
Etisalat...........................................2 C5 Deira Covered Souq.....................(see 7)
Zaman
Villages
G U L F
New Dubai Hospital.......................3 G3 Deira Gold Souq...........................(see 8)
Polyglot Language Institute............4 C4 Deira Spice Souq..........................(see 9)
Shindagha
Thomas Cook Al-Rostamani...........5 C3 Electronics Souq...........................16 C3
Market
Naif Souq...................................(see 12)
Deira Fish
SIGHTS (pp47 84) Perfume Souq............................(see 13)
Market
Al-Ahmadiya School.......................6 B2
Deira Covered Souq.......................7 C2 EATING (pp103 22)
32 Deira Gold Souq.............................8 B2 Abesinian Restaurant................... 17 D2
42
Al-Ras
10
Bur Dubai Deira Spice Souq............................. B2 Afghan Kebab House...................18 C2
9
Abra Station 6
Heritage House.............................10 B2 Al-Baghdadi Home.......................19 E4
8
Hormuz Tourism.......................... 11 D4 Aroos Damascus.......................... 20 D5
26
13
Naif Souq.....................................12 C3 Ashiana......................................(see 40)
9
Dubai Old Souq
Perfume Souq...............................13 B2 Ashwaq Cafeteria.........................21 B2
21
Waterfront
Abra Station
Houses Al-Khaleej Tour Dubai.................................. 14 C4 Bombay.....................................(see 35)
Deira
Roundabout
China Club.................................(see 37)
28
Creekside...................................(see 40)
Deira Old
7
Glasshouse Mediterranean
Souq Abra
31
Bur Dubai Wholesale
Station Murshid
36 Brasserie.................................(see 30)
Souq Market
Souq 17
Naif Grand Abu Shakra......................(see 26)
Police Roundabout Miyako......................................(see 32)
29 18
Diwan Station
Pinoy Grill....................................22 D5
Naif
12 Shabestan..................................(see 37)
Park
16 D
Spinneys.......................................23 F5
D
Bastakia
88
Al-Wasi Sumibiyu....................................(see 37)
Quarter
92
Souq
Verre By Gordon Ramsay...........(see 30)
Kuwait
5 33
Al-Fahidi
Sabkha
Hospital Xia Wei Yang...............................24 C3
Roundabout
Abra
38 YUM!........................................(see 37)
Station
New ENTERTAINMENT (pp123 35)
Baniyas
Mussallah 3
Dubai
Sq Burj Issimo........................................(see 30)
al-Eid
Hospital
Roundabout
Ku-Bu........................................(see 37)
Velvet Lounge............................. 25 C5
Cemetery
Burj
27
al-Nahar SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp137 47)
24 Inter-Fitness...............................(see 37)
Cemetery
SLEEPING (pp149 63)
Al-Hijaz Heritage Motel...............26 A2
See Bur Dubai 4
1
Carlton Tower Hotel....................27 C3
(North) Map
Deira Palace Hotel........................28 B2
pp62 3
D
37 35
Florida Hotel................................29 C2
84
14 Hilton Dubai Creek......................30 C5
19
Hotel Delhi Darbar.......................31 C2
A-Ittihad
11
Dubai Al-Mateena Hyatt Regency Dubai...................32 D2
Sq
Municipality
Landmark Hotel...........................33 C3
ed
Headquarters Union 43
Lords Hotel..................................34 C5
Square
Marco Polo Hotel.........................35 E4
Pacific Hotel.................................36 C2
Radisson SAS Dubai.....................37 C4
15
Ramee International Hotel............38 C3
2
Riviera Hotel..............................(see 27)
44
Sheraton Deira.............................39 F5
Sheraton Dubai Creek..................40 C5
40
39
D
22 Sun & Sands Hotel.......................41 D6
78
25
20
TRANSPORT (pp175 81)
45
Deira Bus Station..........................42 C2
Deira Minibus & Taxi Station....... 43 D4
34
Gulf Air........................................44 E5
Qatar Airways..............................45 C5
See Bur Dubai
(South) Map
Rigga 23
pp64 5
30
41
See Deira
(South) Map
pp56 7
D
80
Toubritilah
Primary
School
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A
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0 400 m
DEIRA (SOUTH) 0.2 miles
0
Rigga See Deira
(North) Map
3
9 pp54 5
19
18
14
15
24
See Bur Dubai D
(South) Map
78
pp64 5
1 4
Clock Tower
Roundabout Hor al-Anz Toubritilah
Primary
School
23 21
D Dubai
Courts
81 D
85
17
20
Creekside
Park
2
6
8
Cargo
Village
Cemetery
16
INFORMATION
Al-Rigga Post Office.......................1 C1
DTCM Office.............................(see 22)
Emirates Driving Institute...............2 H3 ENTERTAINMENT (pp123 35)
D
Dubliners.....................................(see 7)
11
89
Dubai
SIGHTS (pp47 84) Irish Village................................(see 12)
Creek Golf
Dhow Wharves............................... B1 Jules Bar.......................................(see 7)
3
Course
Net Tours & Travels........................4 D1 QD's..........................................(see 11)
Orient Tours...................................5 B5 Terrace......................................(see 16)
SHOPPING (pp85 102) SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp137 47)
Ajmal...........................................(see 6) Amara........................................(see 16)
Dubai
Aminian Persian Carpets..............(see 6) Aviation Club...............................10 B5
International
Damas.........................................(see 6) Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club....11 A4
5
Airport
Deira City Centre...........................6 C3 Dubai Tennis Stadium...................12 B5
13
Early Learning Centre...................(see 6) Nail Spa.....................................(see 10)
Magrudy's...................................(see 6)
Mikyajy........................................(see 6) SLEEPING (pp149 63)
Plug-Ins.......................................(see 6) Al-Bustan Rotana.........................13 C5
7
12
Pride of Kashmir...........................(see 6) Moscow Hotel..............................14 C1
Rituals..........................................(see 6) Orchid Hotel................................15 C1
22
Virgin Megastore.........................(see 6) Park Hyatt Dubai..........................16 B4
10
Women's Secret...........................(see 6)
Zara.............................................(see 6) TRANSPORT (pp175 81)
Al
Br Air France....................................17 C2
Terminal 1
EATING (pp103 22) Air India.......................................18 C1
Al-Mijana.....................................(see 7) Alitalia.......................................... B1
19
Caf� Chic....................................... 7 D5 Avis...........................................(see 22)
Caf� Havana................................(see 6) Budget.......................................(see 22)
Carrefour.....................................(see 6) Cathay Pacific Airways.................20 C2
Casa Mia......................................(see 7) DNATA Head Office....................21 C2
Cellar.........................................(see 10) Dubai International Airport........... E5
22
Golestan........................................8 C3 Emirates.......................................23 C2
Al-Garhoud
JW's Steakhouse............................. E1 Europcar....................................(see 22)
9
Kiku.............................................(see 7) Hertz..........................................(see 22)
Thai Kitchen...............................(see 16) Thai Airways International............24 D1
To Al-Futtaim Training Yalumba......................................(see 7) Thrifty........................................(see 22)
Centre (300m)
56 57
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Dhow Wharfage
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little shops trading their wares. Travellers from Sharjah, there are lovely white sandy pulses and rice, belong to wholesalers trading
DHOW WHARFAGE Map pp56 7
shouldn t expect to see an Istanbul-like beaches, a swimming pool, barbecues, and mainly with Iran and using the dhows to ply
Baniyas Rd
bazaar  they ll be disappointed  but kiosks. For kids there are also plenty of their goods.
Dhows are long, flat, wooden sailing ves-
this tiny aromatic market is still worth open spaces and play areas and a wooden
sels used in the Indian Ocean and Arabian
a half-hour of your time to take in the castle. Lifeguards are on duty between 2 Heritage House At the end of the street
Sea, and they ve docked at the Creek since
wonderfully restored wind-towers and the 8am and 6pm on at least one of the small turn right and walk along Al-Ahmadiya St
the 1830s when the Maktoums established
pungent aromas from the jute sacks. The beaches. Friday is busy, but during the until you arrive at the beautifully restored Her-
a free-trade port, luring merchants away
place is brimming with frankincense and week you can have the place to yourself. itage House (opposite). It s worth a brief diversion
from Persia. The dhows here now trade with
oud, herbs and spices, dried lemons and for an insight into Dubai s history and culture,
Iran, Iraq, Pakistan, Oman, India, Yemen,
chillies, nuts, pulses and more. This is a and you ll enjoy the simple but splendid archi-
Somalia and Sudan, and you ll see all kinds
DEIRA SOUQ STROLL
working souq, not just a tourist attraction, tecture, exquisite detail and, if you re lucky, a
of crazy cargo  air-conditioners, flat-screen
so the tiny shops also sell groceries, plas- free cup of tea and a bite to eat.
TVs, mattresses, kitchen sinks, clothes,
Walking Tour
tics and other household goods for people
canned food, chewing gum, car tyres, cars,
1 Spice Souq As soon as you step off the abra
living in the area and the sailors from the 3 Al-Ahmadiya School Situated directly
even trucks  almost all of it re-exported
at Deira Old Souq Abra Station, the heady
dhows. Good buys include incense burners, behind Heritage House, Al-Ahmadiya School (oppo-
after arriving by air from countries like
scents of sumac, cinnamon, cloves and other
saffron, rose water, henna kits and sheesha site) is another example of simple but elegant
China, South Korea and Singapore. Try to
spices will lure you across to the Spice Souq (p53).
pipes. early-20th-century architecture. After a brief
chat to the sailors if you can  if you find
Take some time to explore. Chat to the shop-
look round, continue your journey along
one who speaks English, you ll learn that it
keepers. If you can t guess what s in those
takes a day to get to Iran by sea and seven
AL-AHMADIYA SCHOOL Map pp54 5
sacks, ask. Buy something (see p93): saffron
days to Somalia, and the dhow captains
226 0286; Al-Ahmadiya St, near Gold Souq;
x is excellent value; frankincense, oud and an
often earn as little as $100 a month, the WALK FACTS
8am-7.30pm Sat-Thu, 2.30-7.30pm Fri
h incense burner make a memorable souvenir;
stevedores even less. If your sailor friend is
Sheikh Mohammed bin Ahmed bin Dal-
and sheesha kits are much cheaper here than Start Spice Souq
in a chatty mood, he may even regale you
mouk established Al-Ahmadiya, Dubai s
they are in the malls. When you exit the souq End Afghan Kebab House
with real-life pirate stories. The gangs of
first school, in 1912, and his father Sheikh
on Al-Abra St, turn right. At the end of the Distance 2km
thieves that stalk the waters off Yemen and
Ahmed owned the traditional house adjoin-
street, turn left onto Al-Ras St, continue to Duration Three hours (including souq shopping)
Somalia sometimes make life very tough for
ing it. Semiformal schools such as these
Al-Hadd St and turn right. The intriguing Fuel Stop Afghan Kebab House
Dubai s hard-working dhow sailors.
were set up by sheikhs and wealthy mer-
stores on these streets, selling sacks of nuts,
chants to teach the Holy Quran, grammar,
Arabic calligraphy, mathematics, literature
DEIRA COVERED SOUQ & NAIF SOUQ
0 300 m
and astronomy, and while most students DEIRA WALKING TOUR 0 0.1 miles
Map pp54 5
paid a couple of rupees to attend, the
Covered Souq btwn Al-Sabkha Rd, 67 St & Naif Rd;
Shindagha
sheikhs paid for the poor students. Very
Naif Souq btwn Naif South St, 9a St & Deira St Market
special is the simplicity of the architecture
Unfortunately not much of the old covered
Deira Fish
Market
and the exquisite detail  check out the
souqs that existed around 30 years ago
intricate carving within the arches of the
remain now  the Deira Spice Souq (p53) is all
courtyard inside and the decorative gyp-
Al
that s left of the Old Souq, once the largest
sum panels near the entrance outside.
in the Gulf. Naif Souq is covered, like tradi- a
tional bazaars, while nearby Deira Covered 2
Souq is covered only in parts and is more
HERITAGE HOUSE Map pp54 5 3
a warren of small shops on narrow lanes Al-Ras
226 0286; Al-Ahmadiya St; 8am-7.30pm
x h
4
spreading across a number of old Deira
Sat-Thu, 2.30-7.30pm Fri
blocks. You ll find everything from tacky
Feeling peckish? At this renovated 1890
5
textiles and plastic kitchenware to Iranian
courtyard house, visitors are treated to
1
saffron and henna, but even if you re not
cups of tea and little bowls of chick peas,
keen on shopping, the souqs provide an
a traditional Emirati snack. Don t race off
Deira
insight into the lives of Emiratis and expat
the moment you ve finished your free food,
START
workers in Dubai.
because this is a rare opportunity to see in-
Deira Old Souk
side a wealthy pearl merchant s residence.
Abra Station
6
Like the old Bastakia buildings, the house
AL-MAMZAR PARK Map p52
is built from coral and gypsum, and has
Al-Mamzar Creek; per person/car Dh5/30; 8am-
h
a central courtyard onto which all rooms
11pm, women & children only Wed
look, plus verandas to prevent sunlight
This lush landscaped park is one of Dubai s
from heating the rooms. The charming staff
hidden gems. It stretches across a couple 8
END
are more than happy to show you around
of very pleasant kilometres on a small
7
and refill your bowl of chick peas, should
headland at the mouth of Khor al-Mamzar.
you still be hungry.
Situated on an attractive inlet, just across
58 59
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NEIGHBOURHOODS DEIRA
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BUR DUBAI
GET LOST: DEIRA
Sometimes it pays to rip up the script and improvise. Some of the most fascinating parts of town aren t home to a
Eating p110; Entertainment p125; Shopping p95; Sleeping p155
single tourist attraction worth recommending, but are brimming with the soul the city is so frequently accused of
Bur Dubai is the oldest part of the city and presents visitors with a slice of life from the emirate s early
lacking. Dubai s soul can be found in its people, particularly its migrant workers, and the stories of the hundreds of
days. There are several distinct districts within Bur Dubai. Shindagha, the area near the entrance to
thousands of individuals who have moved here  some from Saddam s Iraq, others from Afghanistan under the Taliban 
the tunnel, is quiet and relatively undeveloped. It s a great place for a stroll and a light meal by the
in search of a better life.
Creek. The souq district is every bit as vibrant as its Deira counterpart and exploring  Little India
Dubai is a very safe city  there aren t any no-go areas and even the scariest-looking alleyways will be quite harmless.
in the surrounding streets can easily absorb a
Be adventurous and spontaneous. Put away the maps and follow your instinct. But before you hurl this guidebook into
couple of hours of your time. A little further
the Creek, read our suggestions of the best places in Deira in which to get hopelessly, joyously lost.
east along the Creek is Dubai s administrative
Naif (Map pp54 5) The area between Naif Rd and Al-Khaleej Rd is a labyrinthine muddle of slim, cluttered streets, district; an area dominated by government
and one of the best places in town for urban photography. It s not always pretty, but here you ll find old men smok- buildings and overseas consulates.
ing sheesha and playing backgammon on the pavements; pockets of Ethiopia and Somalia (the potent coffee poured Moving inland from Bastakia and the souqs,
BUR DUBAI
in the African caf�s will rouse the sleepiest of sleepyheads); hilariously awful fake watches (Rolex, Longynes etc); there are three main districts, each with their

Dubai Museum (above) Visit the museum for a
games consoles (including the PolyStation and the notorious Gold Leopard King); perfumes (one s called  Our Man own distinctive character. Mankhool compen-
speedy and entertaining introduction to the city.
on the Titanic ); blindingly bright neon shop fa�ades (what s with all the photos of babies?); and the occasional goat, sates for its lack of sights with quirky nightlife

Sheikh Saeed al-Maktoum House (p66) Stroll
walking nonchalantly down the centre of the street. You just don t get this on the Palm Jumeirah& and scores of great restaurants. Unfortunately,
through the elegantly restored house where there s
much of the district is consumed by a bland
Mateena (Map pp54 5) Despite its out-of-the-way location, Al-Mateena St is one of the most walkable roads in
a rare collection of amazing black-and-white
concrete jungle known rather optimistically
town, with wide pavements, palm trees, and a long, narrow park running right through its centre. There are lots of
photographs of early Dubai.
as Golden Sands. On the other side of the
Iraqi restaurants and caf�s on this strip, which means you can see masgouf  a whole fish sliced in half, spicily sea-

Bastakia Quarter (right) Walk through Dubai s  old
BurJuman Mall is Karama, home to rundown
soned and barbecued over an open flame  being prepared in some of the windows. And with rock gardens, dangling
town and pop into XVA (p68) for a salad, a fruit juice
apartment blocks housing mainly Filipino and
fronds and artificial lakes, the sheesha caf�s on this road have to be seen to be believed. If you re interested in Arabic
and a peek at their latest exhibition.
Indian expat workers. It s well worth a wander
food, check out nearby Al-Muraqqabat Rd, where there are excellent Syrian and Palestinian eateries.
 it has a real community feel to it, and there s
great shopping (watch out for the fakes) and
Al-Ahmadiya St, turning right into Old Baladiya bottles. Hang a right into 107 St, where it can
dozens of Indian, Pakistani and Filipino restaurants where you can eat like a king for under
St, where you ll find more wholesalers, this be bedlam some nights with hawkers compet-
Dh20. Further south is the rather nondescript Oud Metha, although in among its malls, hotels
time trading in gutras (white headcloths) and ing to sell off their cut-price clothes, Chinese-
and theme parks are a few well-hidden gems, such as the restaurant at the Iranian Club (p108) and
agals (headrobes used to hold gutras in place), made shoes and kitschy souvenirs.
the cutting-edge clothing store Five Green (p97).
sandals, cheap shoes and Chinese products. If
Dubai has developed. Then there are a
you re considering buying an Emirati national 6 Deira Covered Souq Tucked behind these DUBAI MUSEUM Map pp54 5
dress as a souvenir, here s the place to shop. streets is Deira Covered Souq (p58) which doesn t series of cutesy dioramas of old Dubai life,
353 1862; Al-Fahidi St, opp Grand Mosque &
x
look like a traditional souq and isn t covered. supported by video, sound effects and dis-
Diwan; adult/child Dh3/1; 8.30am-8.30pm Sat-
h
4 Gold Souq Ahead, to the left, is the wooden Instead you ll find hundreds of little shops turbingly lifelike mannequins. A highlight
Thu, 3-9pm Fri
latticed archway entrance to Dubai s famous on alleys selling everything from textiles to for many is the complete grave from the
Some tourists mock the very notion of
Gold Souq (p53). Take time to drop into shops to luggage, groceries and sheesha pipes. Arriving Al-Qusais archaeological site and finds from
Dubai having a museum:  Historical Dubai?
get a closer look at the jaw-dropping (some- near Al-Sabkha Rd bus station, cross the road digs at Al-Qusais (dating back to 2500 to
What, they have exhibits about the year
times for the wrong reasons) jewellery. The and head into Naif South St. 500 BC) and Jumeirah (6th century AD). All
1995? But Dubai does have an interesting
elaborate gold pieces created for brides dow- displays in the museum have explanations
history, and this is a surprisingly nifty little
ries are particularly over the top  find them 7 Naif Souq Follow Naif South St, turn right in Arabic and English. Photography is not
museum. Rather than bewilder guests with
by the camera flashes going off. Wander along into 9A St and wander down until you arrive officially permitted, although many visitors
unnecessary detail, this is an accessible
the atmospheric narrow lanes that lead off the at Naif Souq (p58), a small covered market popular find it impossible to resist posing with the
and entertaining introduction to Dubai
main arcade: you ll discover tiny teashops, sim- with Emirati women buying copy Dior shay- mannequins for a sneaky snap or two&
and its history, culture and traditions. The
ple cafeterias, busy tailors and barber shops. las and abayas, children s clothes and toys 
museum occupies the early-19th-century
it can get crazy here at night.
Al-Fahidi Fort, possibly the oldest building
BASTAKIA QUARTER Map pp54 5
5 Perfume Souq Exiting the souq (usually
in Dubai, and once the seat of government
With its arty feel and narrow breezy lanes,
poorer than when you entered), continue along 8 Afghan Kebab House If you ve worked
and the residence of Dubai s rulers. Apart
the atmospheric old Bastakia Quarter on
Sikkat al-Khail St to the Perfume Souq. This is re- up an appetite rambling though Deira s souqs,
from a small fishing boat, a traditional
the waterfront east of the Bur Dubai Souq
ally just a string of shops selling heady Arabian a carnivorous meal at the Afghan Kebab House
weapons display and a barasti house with
is a pleasant place to explore. Here you ll
attars and oud, fake  European colognes with (p109), hidden behind Naif Mosque, will keep
wind-tower (step under it and feel the
find the highest concentration of tradi-
ridiculous labels, and pretty tinted perfume you sated for ages.
difference it makes in summer), much of
tional old wind-tower houses in Dubai.
the air-conditioned museum is thankfully
Built at the beginning of the 20th century,
underground. There s an excellent (albeit
these buildings were once the homes of
somewhat dated) multimedia presentation
wealthy pearl and textile merchants who
covering the city s history and growth that
came from Bastak in southern Iran, enticed
gives a real understanding of how rapidly
to Dubai by its free trade. The elegant
60 61
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NEIGHBOURHOODS BUR DUBAI
0 400 m
BUR DUBAI (NORTH) 0 0.2 miles
INFORMATION Etro................................................(see 19) ENTERTAINMENT (pp123 35)
Al-Jalssa Internet Caf�....................(see 18) Faces..............................................(see 19) Tch� Tch�.........................................37 F4
Al-Musallah Post Office..................... 1 G4 International Alladin Shoes.............(see 10) Troyka...........................................(see 35)
Australian Consulate...........................2 F5 Praias.............................................(see 19)
British Embassy..................................3 H5 Tape ą l'Oeil..................................(see 19) SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp137 47)
Port
Canadian Consulate............................4 F5 Whistles.........................................(see 19) Club Stretch.....................................38 B4
Rashid
Department of Immigration & Club Stretch......................................39 B3
Naturalisation.................................5 B6 EATING (pp103 22) Fitness First....................................(see 26)
Dutch Consulate................................. F5 Al-Mallah......................................... 20 A4 Fitness First....................................(see 19)
6
Qatari Consulate................................7 C5 Antique Bazaar...............................(see 41)
Sahary Gate...................................(see 16) Basta Art Caf�..................................21 G4 SLEEPING (pp149 63)
Wonder Bus Tours.........................(see 19) Bastakiah Nights.............................. 22 H4 Capitol Hotel....................................40 B3
Beirut...............................................23 A3 Four Points Sheraton Bur Dubai........41 F4
SIGHTS (pp47 84) Carrefour..........................................24 F2 Four Points Sheraton Downtown
Ali Bin Abi Talib Mosque.................... 8 G3 Choithram........................................25 F4 Dubai............................................ E4
42
Port Rashid
Bastakia Quarter................................9 G4 Coconut Grove..............................(see 46) Golden Sands Hotel..........................43 E4 Al-Khaleej
Customs
Roundabout
Bur Dubai Souq................................10 G3 Curry Leaf........................................26 F4 Orient Guest House......................... 44 G4 Authority
13
27
Dubai Museum................................11 G3 Kan Zaman......................................27 G2 Ramada Hotel...................................45 F4
17
Shindagha a
Grand Mosque.................................12 G3 Kwality............................................. F3 Rydges Plaza....................................46 A4
28
Market
Falcon
Heritage & Diving Villages...............13 G2 Lebanese Village...............................29 F4 XVA Art Hotel.................................. 47 G3 24
Roundabout
Shindagha
Hindi Lane.......................................14 G3 Organic Foods & Caf�......................30 A4
Majlis Gallery................................... 15 G4 Paul................................................(see 19) TRANSPORT (pp175 81)
Sahary Gate..................................... 16 G4 Rangoli............................................. F3 Bur Dubai Abra Station.....................48 G3
31
Sheikh Saeed al-Maktoum House.....17 G2 Special Ostadi.................................. 32 G4 Bur Dubai Bus Station....................... F2
49
h
49
Spinneys...........................................33 F4 Dubai Old Souq Abra Station...........50 G3
m
SHOPPING (pp85 102) Spinneys...........................................34 E5 Oman Air.........................................51 F4
Moneychangers
Deira
Ajmal.............................................(see 19) Troyka..............................................35 F3 Souq
D 48 Al-Ras
Gold
Al-Ain Shopping Centre....................18 F4 Waxy O'Conner's.............................36 F3
94 Souq
D
Sik
Al-Orooba Oriental........................(see 19) XVA Caf�.......................................(see 47)
92
Bateel.............................................(see 19) Waterfront
Houses
Burjuman Centre............................... F5
19
8
28
Cemetery
50
10
40 39
Deira Old
14
35 Bur Dubai
Souq Abra
Cemetery
Murshid
DEC Gas Souq 12
Station
Souq
Power
Station 11
36
Diwan
See Deira
(North) Map
23
31
47
pp54 5
16
Bastakia
D 9 Quarter
Cemetery 21 44
15
75 22
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1 Al-Seef Abra
See
Al-Fahidi
20 Roundabout Station
Jumeirah 38 51
25 Roundabout
Map pp76 7 D
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7
Ministry
of Health
Department
of Health &
Medical Services
A' ishat Iranian
Intermediate School
5 Scubatec School
D
Diving
Al-Sae Diyyat
Centre
88
See Bur Dubai International
Al-Karama
ye (South) Map School
Kindergarten
pp64 5
Za'abeel Karama
Islamic
Sheikha Latifa
See Sheikh
Roundabout
Studies
bint Hamdan
Zayed Rd
College
School
Map pp72 3
Za'abeel
Exhibition Park
World Trade
Halls
E
Centre Hotel
11
Karama
Park
62 63
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NEIGHBOURHOODS BUR DUBAI
NEIGHBOURHOODS BUR DUBAI
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0 400 m
BUR DUBAI (SOUTH) 0 0.2 miles
bin
BurJuman
Centre
Spinney's
2
26
See Jumeirah
3
See Bur Dubai 20
Map pp76 7
(North) Map
5
D Ministry
pp62 3
19 of Health 17
88
Department 4
25
of Health & 7
Iranian 6
Medical Services A' ishat 33
Satwa
School
Karama
Intermediate
10
Department of
School
Immigration &
D 29
Deira
Naturalisation
Al-Sae Diyyat
88
International
Al-Karama
ye School
Kindergarten
Sheikha Latifa Islamic
Za'abeel
bint Hamdan Studies
Roundabout
School College
14
Za'abeel
D
Exhibition Park
World Trade
79
Halls
Centre Hotel 27
E
12
11
Karama
Park
See Sheikh
9
Zayed Rd
Map pp72 3
15
H Umm Hureir Rd
2
10
13
Dubai
TV
INFORMATION Karachi Darbar...........................(see 14)
Al-Wasl Hospital............................ 1 D5 Lemongrass..................................22 D3
Lamcy
Bateaux Dubai................................2 H1 Thai Chi.....................................(see 18)
Plaza D
Big Bus Company.......................(see 18)
24
16
81
Danat Dubai Cruises.......................3 H1 ENTERTAINMENT (pp123 35)
See Deira
22
Oud Metha
Dubai
Egyptian Consulate.........................4 G1 Alliance Fran�aise.........................23 E4 (South) Map
Courts
pp56 7
11
German Consulate.........................5 G1 Carter's......................................(see 18)
8
Indian Consulate............................6 G1 Chi@The Lodge........................... 24 E3
Kanoo Travel..................................7 D1 Cooz..........................................(see 30)
28
Za'abeel
Lama Tours..................................... F3 Ginseng.....................................(see 18)
8
Main Post Office............................9 F2 Keva..........................................(see 28)
Omani Consulate.........................10 G1 Lamcy........................................(see 16)
Rashid Hospital............................. F3 Maharlika...................................... E1
11 25
31
23
South African Consulate...............(see 5) Mix............................................(see 30)
D
21
Thomas Cook Al-Rostamani.........12 E2 Movies Under the Stars..............(see 18)
79
New Asia Bar & Club..................(see 32)
SHOPPING (pp85 102) Peanut Butter Jam......................(see 18)
2000 Horizon Antiques..............(see 15) Rock Bottom Caf�......................... F1
26
Amzaan.....................................(see 18) Vintage......................................(see 18) 34
Five Green.................................... F3 Za'abeel Park...............................27 C2
13
Gift World..................................(see 15)
Karama Centre.............................. E2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp137 47)
14
Karama Souq...............................15 D2 Al-Nasr Leisureland......................28 E4
Dubai English
Mothercare..................................16 D3 Grand Hyatt Gym......................(see 30) Speaking
School
Ohm Records................................ F1 Hopi Ear Candling......................(see 18)
17
Topshop....................................(see 18) Pharaohs Club............................(see 18)
Wafi City Mall..............................18 E5 Scubatec Diving Centre................29 D1
Wafi Gourmet............................(see 18)
SLEEPING (pp149 63)
18
EATING (pp103 22) Grand Hyatt Dubai.......................30 E6
Asha's........................................(see 18) M�venpick Hotel Bur Dubai.........31 E4 32
Awtar........................................(see 30) Raffles Dubai................................ E5
32
Bur
Fire & Ice...................................(see 32)
Wafi City
Dubai
Gazebo......................................... E1 TRANSPORT (pp175 81) Mall
19
Govinda's...................................... F1 Delta Airways...............................33 G1
20
1
Iranian Club..................................21 E4 KLM.............................................34 E4
Iz...............................................(see 30) Virgin Atlantic............................(see 33)
Dubai
Creek Golf
E
Course
11
Al-Wasl
E
Hospital
66
Creekside
Park
30
64 65
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Dhow Wharfage
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homes the traders built were the most  60s, taken on the Creek, in the souqs and
sophisticated in Dubai, and were only at traditional celebrations. There are also
YEEHAH  IT S FREE
found in coastal towns where there was displays of postage stamps and coins (one
While entrance fees to Dubai s official sights and museums are fairly inexpensive, for those on a tight budget, here are
enough wealth to build with coral, gypsum featuring Edward VII was known as umm
a few things you can do for free:
and limestone  a big step up from palm salaah, meaning the  bald headed one )
Dhow Wharfage (p58) It costs nothing to wander along the fascinating dhow wharfage, and if you re good at
fronds. A typical house was two-storeys and a model of Bur Dubai from the 1950s
smiling and miming, you might even get invited to go onboard a boat for a look. (Unaccompanied women, of course,
with a central courtyard, which most also helps tell the story.
should refuse nicely.)
rooms opened onto, and which boasted
decorative arches with intricate carvings.
Waterfront on Friday The big day off for expats sees companies bussing workers from city-rim labour camps to
SAHARY GATE Map pp62 3
Generally fairly plain from the outside, they
the Shindagha waterfront, where they hang out with friends, play with gadgets in Carrefour for hours on end, take
353 5660; www.saharygate.com; Bastakia
x
had the wonderful carved wooden doors
snapshots for the relatives back home and play long games of cricket.
House no 14; 9am-6pm
h
you see today, plus crenulations, carved
The number of expats living and working
Heritage House (p58) The underappreciated Heritage House boasts a charming central courtyard, kitschy dioramas
grilles and stucco panels on the wealthier
in Dubai who have never had a single con-
and staff who ll serve you cups of tea and traditional food. What s not to love?
merchants homes  many of Bastakia s
versation with a UAE national is a cause for
renovated buildings, such as XVA (p68), Majlis
concern. Too many expatriates know very
Gallery (p68) and Basta Art Caf� (p113), have A guru is a teacher-guide, and a dabar is knocked down to make way for another
little about the culture of their hosts, and
these gorgeous decorations. a cheap lunch stop, but we re not sure mosque in 1960. Its sand-coloured walls
Emiratis aren t making enough of an effort
if there s a connection. Of most interest and wooden shutters blend in perfectly
to enlighten their guests. To help counter
to travellers is the small alley that expats with the surrounding old quarter of Bur
BUR DUBAI SOUQ Map pp54 5
the stereotypes and misunderstandings
refer to as  Hindi Lane . Here vendors sell Dubai. As well as being the centre of Du-
Btwn Bur Dubai waterfront & Al-Fahidi St that pervade Dubai society, Sahary Gate
Hindu religious paraphernalia and offer- bai s religious and cultural life, the original
While not as old as the Deira souqs  in the offers a range of workshops and tours that
ings to take to the temples: baskets of fruit, Grand Mosque was also home to the
old days Bur Dubai and Bastakia residents help educate foreigners about the local
garlands of flowers, gold-embossed holy town s kuttab school where children learnt
had to take a boat across to Deira to go culture. Arabic calligraphy, cooking, lan-
images, sacred ash, sandalwood paste and to recite the Quran from memory. Note that
shopping  this breezy renovated souq can guage and jewellery-making are taught in
packets of bindis, the little pendants Hindu it s only possible to admire the mosque
be just as atmospheric and lively a place workshops typically lasting between two
women stick to their foreheads. from outside  interiors of mosques in
to visit. On a summer s evening it can also and four hours, while some of the tours
Dubai and the UAE are out of bounds to
be cooler, as the breeze blows through are refreshingly unique. You can visit the
non-Muslims (except for the tour at Jumei-
HERITAGE & DIVING VILLAGES
the wooden-latticed arcades. The buzzi- palace of a generous Ajman sheikh, who
rah Mosque; see p75).
Map pp62 3
est time to visit is a Friday evening when donates all proceeds to charity, or go to
393 7151; Al-Shindagha Rd; 8am-10pm Sat-
it s crowded with expat workers shopping the house of a local family for coffee, dates x h
CREEKSIDE PARK Map pp64 5
on their day off. While you ll find some and a light meal. The proceeds for these Thu, 8-11am & 4-10pm Fri
great take-home items, what s primarily on tours go to City of Hope, a shelter for During the Dubai Shopping Festival (p88), the 800 900 (Dubai Municipality); off Riyadh St,
x
offer are cheap clothes, shoes and textiles, abused women. Sahary House also runs Heritage and Diving Villages bloom with btwn Al-Garhoud & Al-Maktoum Bridges; admission
mainly purchased by Emirati and Indian regular cultural awareness classes and free burqa-clad Emirati women making hot dosa Dh5; 8am-11pm Sat-Wed, 8am-11.30pm Thu-Fri
h
women. The surrounding backstreets  with talks about Islam. If you don t have enough (flat, grilled bread made of flour and water), & public holidays, women & children only Wed
its tailors, textile shops and sari shops  time for a class or a tour, it s still worth Bedu men offering short-haul camel rides This lovely, lush waterfront park is one
may not be as aesthetically pleasing to popping in to enjoy the beautiful building to children, and unusual traditional activi- of the city s largest  running from Al-
the eye, but are still intriguing and worth and courtyard, and a coffee or two in the ties such as rifle-throwing competitions. Garhoud Bridge to Al-Maktoum Bridge 
exploring. traditional majlis. Unfortunately, for the rest of the year the and is one of the favourites. It s very peace-
villages are lifeless, devoid of both tourists ful and has gorgeous views across the
and staff, with empty souqs and only a few Creek. It also offers children s play areas,
SHEIKH SAEED AL-MAKTOUM  HINDI LANE Map pp62 3
dreary displays to keep visitors interested. abra rides and dhow cruises, kiosks, res-
HOUSE Map pp62 3
Behind Grand Mosque, off Ali bin Abi Talib St
The occasional performance of traditional taurants, an amphitheatre and beaches
393 7139; Al-Shindagha Rd; adult/child Dh2/1; If you venture behind the Grand Mosque
x
music or dance takes place outside the (though it s not advisable to swim). On
8am-8.30pm Sat-Thu, 3-9.30pm Fri in Bur Dubai, you ll find evidence of two
h
shopping festival  it s worth calling in ad- weekends it s like a huge sheesha caf�,
Now a wonderful museum of pre-oil times, places of worship behind very modest
vance and making sure your visit coincides with families spread out on blankets,
the grand courtyard house of Sheikh Saeed, exteriors  rows of shoes in shelves at the
with an event. puffing away. There s also a 2.5km cable-
the grandfather of Sheikh Mohammed, sits bottom of a couple of sets of stairs. One
car ride (tickets adult/child Dh25/15)
splendidly on the Shindagha area water- staircase leads to the Shri Nathje Jayate Temple,
30m above the shore of the Creek, with
GRAND MOSQUE Map pp62 3
front, near the Heritage and Diving Villages. also known as the Krishna Mandir (mandir
fabulous vistas. Also situated in a colour-
Built in 1896, during the reign of Sheikh is Hindi for temple). Shri Nathji is the main Ali bin Abi Talib St, opposite Dubai Museum
ful building in the park is Children s City
Maktoum bin Hasher al-Maktoum, it served deity of Pushtimarg, a Hindu devotional This mosque, with the tallest minaret in
( 334 0808; www.childrencity.ae; adult/child Dh15/10;
x
for many years as the residence for the sect, with its main temple near Udaipur in town, might appear to be as old as the
9am-10pm Sat-Thu, 4-10pm Fri). Popular with
h
Al-Maktoum family, and Sheikh Saeed lived Rajasthan, India. The other house of wor- Dubai Museum, but it was actually built
local and expat kids, it s home to a crea-
here from 1888 until his death in 1958. It ship is identified by a discreet sign, Sikh in the 1990s. The multi-domed mosque
tive, educational and entertaining kids
houses an engaging exhibition of photo- Gurudaba, which is interesting, because a maintains the style of the original Grand
activities centre.
graphs, primarily from the 1940s,  50s and Sikh place of worship is called a gurdwara. Mosque, which dated from 1900 and was
66 67
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NEIGHBOURHOODS BUR DUBAI
commercial gallery, established in the
DHOW-BUILDING YARD Map p52 7 Shri Nathje Jayate Temple Take the lane
1970s. Compared to the progressive gal-
to the mosque s right-hand side, passing the
Jaddaf, Bur Dubai side of Creek
WALK FACTS
leries in Al-Quoz, Majlis is much more
humble Hindu Shri Nathje Jayate Temple (p66) on
The gorgeous, traditional old dhows you
Start Bastakiah Nights
traditional and gentle, focusing on paint-
your left.
see on Dubai Creek are still built by hand
End Kan Zaman
ings and calligraphy by local and regional
in the traditional style on the Creek wa-
Distance 3km
artists.
8 Hindi Lane Continue straight ahead until
terfront, in Jaddaf, about 1km south of
Duration Three to four hours (including museum
you get to Hindi Lane (p66), a wonderful, colour-
Al-Garhoud Bridge. Here, craftsmen use
visit)
ful alley lined with tiny stores selling religious
basic tools (a hammer, saw, chisel, drill and
ALI BIN ABI TALIB MOSQUE
Fuel Stop Kan Zaman
paraphernalia.
plane) to curve and fit sturdy teak planks,
Map pp62 3
one on top of the other, before fitting
Ali bin Abi Talib St
9 Sikh Gurudaba Along the way, you ll no-
the frame on the inside of the boat. Be
This simple yet striking mosque in the
BUR DUBAI WALKING TOUR
tice rows of shoes at the bottom of stairs that
impressed: this is in contrast to Western
textile area of Bur Dubai Souq is notable
0 300 m
0 0.2 miles
lead up to the Sikh Gurudaba (p66).
boat-building techniques where the frame
for its sensuous, bulbous domes and gently
Sheik Obaid
is generally built first, and the planks fitted
tapering minaret. Its outline is best appreci- bin Thani
Sheik Juma Al-Khaleej
Bin Suroor House
al-Maktoum Roundabout
10 Bur Dubai Souq At the end of the lane
to it. These days, of course, the blokes pop 14
ated at night from Baniyas Rd in Deira, on Mosque
House
13
take a right  you are now in Bur Dubai Souq
an engine on the back before sliding it into
the opposite side of the Creek, when the END
12
(p66)  but first head towards the waterfront,
the Creek.
mosque and neighbouring wind-towers
Shindagha
past the refurbished wooden stores, until you
Tower
are beautifully lit up  it makes a postcard-
come to a lovely open area. A favourite spot,
perfect shot.
XVA Map pp62 3
it s an oasis of calm overlooking the commo-
353 5383; www.xvagallery.com; behind Basta o
x
tion of the Creek. On the Deira side, you ll
m
Art Caf�, Al-Musallah Roundabout; 9am-9pm
h ZA ABEEL PARK Map pp64 5
notice more restored wind-towers at the Spice
Al-Ras
Sat-Thu, 10am-5pm Fri
Bur Dubai
800 900 (Dubai Municipality); Sheikh Khalifa bin
x
Abra Station Souq, while looking back to the Bur Dubai
A peaceful retreat from the traffic that s less
Zayed Rd & Al-Qataiyat Rd; admission Dh5
side you ll see some handsome renovated wa-
than a block away, XVA is a contemporary
This 51-hectare park, stretching over three
terfront houses. Head back in the direction
Waterfront
art gallery, casual caf� and boutique hotel
areas, has gorgeous lakes, ponds, a jog- Houses
you came, turning right into the souq, and
Dubai Old Souq
(p157) in one of Bastakia s most beautifully
ging track, sports facilities, a club house, Abra Station
11
continue under the wooden arcades, passing
restored old courtyard residences. XVA
10
and retail and food facilities  not to men-
scores of textile shops. Look up the lanes to
9
8
holds regular exhibitions of art, sculpture
tion fabulous views of the Sheikh Zayed
Bur Dubai the left and you ll notice even more revamped
6
and design with splashy openings; organ-
Souq
Rd skyline. Work is underway on a project
7
wind-towers.
ises Creek cruises with a difference; has
called StarGate, a space-themed park-
5
a wonderful little gift shop; and runs a
within-a-park where kids can learn about
11 Allah Din Shoes When you see the
film club offering regular art-house movie
2
technology.
Basta
Bastakia
Dubai Old Souq Abra Station on your right,
Art
screenings and discussions. Quarter
Caf�
3
4 you ll also spot Allah Din Shoes, selling wonder-
1
START fully colourful curly-toed slippers at bargain
Al-Seef
BUR DUBAI WATERSIDE
Al-Fahidi
Roundabout
MAJLIS GALLERY Map pp62 3
Roundabout
prices. Continue through the vibrant souq,
353 6233; www.majlisgallery.com; Al-Fahidi
x
which is generally hectic at night (chaotic on
WALK
Cemetery
Roundabout; 9.30am-8pm Sat-Thu, closed Fri
h
Friday evenings) but peaceful in the morning.
In a fabulous old house in the Bastakia
Walking Tour
Exit the souq at its western entrance with
Quarter, Majlis Gallery is Dubai s oldest
1 Bastakiah Nights Start this heritage walk 4 Sahary Gate Learn about Emirati culture
the Bur Dubai Abra Station ahead to your
of Dubai s oldest areas at Bastakiah Nights (p111) at Sahary Gate (p66) or just drop in to and savour
right, and walk past the abras and along the
restaurant, near Al-Seef Rd. The courtyard Sahary House s lovely architecture.
waterfront, passing Shindagha Tower on your
house it occupies is lavishly decorated and
ABRA CRUISING left, until you arrive at a number of wonderful
worth a look inside (staff are happy to show 5 Dubai Museum From Basta Art Caf�,
historic buildings.
Fifteen thousand people cross Dubai Creek each day
you around). Spend some time wandering head along Al-Fahidi St to Dubai Museum (p61).
on abras, the traditional wooden water taxis, for just
the quarter s atmospheric narrow lanes and Here you can easily spend an hour engaging
12 Sheikh Saeed al-Maktoum House
Dh1 a journey. You can hire an abra to do the same
peeking into the lovingly renovated wind- in the history, heritage and development of
Once the residence of Dubai s ruling Mak-
trip the cruise companies do, but you ll be at water
tower houses. Dubai, and sneaking photos of the kitschy
toum family, Sheikh Saeed al-Maktoum House (p66) is
level, with wind in your hair and seagulls in your
dioramas.
home to a fascinating collection of old images
face. It s a more interesting experience, especially if
2 XVA Hotel & Art Gallery A superbly re-
of Dubai. Before reaching the house, have a
the boat captain speaks a little English or you speak
stored courtyard residence in Bastakia, XVA 6 Grand Mosque Emerging from the mu-
look at Bin Suroor Mosque, which dates back
Urdu, Hindi or Arabic  you might learn a whole
(left) houses an art gallery, a caf�, a gift shop seum, walk down 78A St to admire the re-
to 1930 and is frequented by local workers,
lot more about the Creek and those who work on
and a hotel. served architectural details of the multidomed
and the historic Sheikh Juma al-Maktoum
it. Abras can be hired from the abra stations along
Grand Mosque (p67); make a note when visiting
House.
the creek, but try the dock near Al-Seef roundabout,
3 Majlis Gallery Another marvellous old Sheikh Saeed al-Maktoum House (No 14
where they cost around Dh40 for 30 minutes or Dh60
house in Bastakia, Majlis (left) has paintings and on this tour) to look for the original Grand
13 Heritage & Diving Villages On the
for an hour.
calligraphy from local artists. Mosque in old photos of Dubai.
walk to the Heritage & Diving Villages (p67) consider
68 69
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stopping and having a look at the Islamic music or dance performances at other times
SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD
Centre at Sheikh Obaid bin Thani House. If of the year.
your visit to Dubai coincides with the Dubai
Eating p114; Entertainment p125; Shopping p98; Sleeping p157
Shopping Festival, the villages will be a hive 14 Kan Zaman Grab a waterfront table at
Sheikh Zayed Rd itself, which connects Dubai to Abu Dhabi, has been around for many years.
of activity, providing an insight into Emirati Kan Zaman (p112) and relax, sit back and enjoy
But the stretch of high-rise apartment blocks, five-star hotels and offices crammed into the
traditions. There are occasional traditional a tasty Arabic lunch.
space between the World Trade Centre (a 1979 building that looks prehistoric alongside its
space-age cohorts) and the Dusit was mostly built in the late  90s. Just to the side of Dubai s
favourite speedway, there s the growing district of Al-Quoz, home to innumerable industrial
estates and, of greater interest to tourists, some of the Middle East s best art galleries.
DUBAI WILDLIFE & WATERBIRD MEEM GALLERY Map pp72 3
SANCTUARY Map p52
347 7883; www.meem.ae; Umm Suqeim Rd, off
x
223 2323; Oud Metha Rd, Ras al-Khor; admis- Interchange 4, Al-Quoz; 9.30am-6.30pm Sat-
x h
sion free; 10am-4pm Sat-Thu, closed Fri Wed, closed Thu, 9.30am-2pm Fri
h
Pretty pink flamingos flock to the inland An ambitious venture by two Emirati busi-
end of the Dubai Creek during the winter ness tycoons and British art dealer Charlie
months. Also known as Al-Khor Nature Pocock, Meem is dedicated to traditional
Reserve, this sanctuary has platforms that and contemporary Islamic art. Recent
allow visitors to get a close-up view of the exhibitions have included Ali Omar Ermes
birds (with fantastically sharp binoculars) calligraphic paintings and the pop art
without disturbing them, and the juxtaposi- of Jordan s Jamal Abdul Rahim. If you re
tion of these elegant birds with the Dubai interested in learning more about Arabic
metropolis is dramatic. Kids love it, and it s art, this is a great place to visit and possibly
a decent outside bet for a quirky date too. make an acquisition.
B21 GALLERY Map pp72 3 COURTYARD Map pp72 3
340 3965; off Sheikh Zayed Rd, btwn Inter- x
347 5050; www.courtyard-uae.com; off Sheikh
x
changes 3 & 4, Al-Quoz; 11am-7pm Sat-Thu, Zayed Rd, btwn Interchanges 3 & 4, Al-Quoz;
h
closed Fri 9am-7pm Sat-Thu
x
In this warehouse space, Palestinian artist The Courtyard is home to several galleries
Jeffar Khaldi shows his own vibrant work, that hold changing exhibitions of painting,
as well as rotating exhibitions of locally calligraphy, mixed media, miniatures, rare
produced and regional art, such as Ramin Persian carpets and sculptures by local,
Haerizadeh s distorted photography. It s Middle Eastern and international artists.
worth a look if you re in this developing arts The Courtyard also has interior design and
neighbourhood, but call first if you re not, handicrafts stores, and a few media/design
as they could be in-between exhibitions. businesses. Highlights here are Iranian
expat artist, Dariush Zandi s Total Arts at The
THIRD LINE Map pp72 3
341 1367; www.thethirdline.com; off Sheikh
x
Zayed Rd, btwn Interchanges 3 & 4, Al-Quoz;
11am-8pm Sat-Thu, closed Fri
h
One of Dubai s more adventurous art
spaces is operated by a couple of talented
FOR KIDS
young curators, Sunny Rahbar and Claudia
Cellini, whose exhibitions focus on pro- Dubai Museum (p61)
vocative contemporary art. Their shows
Za abeel Park (p68)
often include work that breaks the rules of
Creekside Park & Children s City (p67)
traditional arts in the region to create fresh
Ibn Battuta Mall (p101)
new forms, playfully appropriating every- Ski Dubai Snow Park (p142)
thing from Pakistani miniatures and Persian
Wild Wadi Waterpark (p78)
calligraphy to traditional clothing. Recent
Dubai Wildlife & Waterbird Sanctuary (left)
exhibitions have included the arresting op
Jam Jar (p74)
art of Rana Begum and the elaborate paint- Al-Mamzar Park (p58)
ings of Iranian artist Farhad Moshri.
Jumeirah Beach Park (p78)
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NEIGHBOURHOODS BUR DUBAI
NEIGHBOURHOODS SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD
0 2 km
SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD
0 1 miles
T H E
G U L F
See Bur Dubai
(North) Map
Jumeirah
pp62 3
D
Beach Park
94
D
Wild Wadi
75
Jumeirah
Waterpark
Jumeirah Rd
D
92
Umm See Jumeirah
Map pp76 7
Suqeim D
90
D
73
Satwa
Salmah Primary
2
Safa Park School 15
29
Safa 24
23
36
18 20 1
3
38
4
33
Interchange Interchange
30
39 19
No 2 10 No 1 22
35 17
E
Sheikh Zayed Rd
13
28
Interchange 11
16 21
31
40
37
No 4
27
Interchange
34
E 6 No 3
12
11 See Bur Dubai
5 26
32 (South) Map
7
14 pp64 5
Horse
Racecourse
9
11
Al-Quoz
E
44
INFORMATION Amwaj...........................................(see 33) Zinc................................................(see 15)
Al-Zahra Private Medical Clinic.......... 1 H3 Benjarong.......................................(see 28) Zyara............................................... 23 G3
Arabian Adventures.......................(see 37) Exchange Grill................................(see 29)
Arabic Language Centre...................(see 4) Hoi An...........................................(see 33) SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp137 47)
French Consulate............................... 2 H3 Lotus One......................................(see 21) 1847..............................................(see 13)
Al-Marqadh
Italian Consulate..............................(see 4) Marrakech.....................................(see 33) Dubai Creek Striders.......................(see 31)
Thomas Cook Al-Rostamani............... 3 G3 More................................................16 G3 Gems of Yoga..................................24 H3
Turkish Consulate.............................. 4 H3 Nezesaussi......................................(see 26) Nad al-Sheba Club............................25 F6
United States Consulate...................(see 4) Noodle House................................(see 13) Seaweed Wraps.............................(see 29) 8
Options..........................................(see 21)
SIGHTS (pp47 84) Saj Express.......................................17 G3 SLEEPING (pp149 63)
Art Space.......................................(see 29) Spectrum on One...........................(see 29) Al-Manzil..........................................26 F3
B21 Gallery.........................................5 B3 Thiptara Royal Thai........................(see 34) Al-Murooj Rotana Hotel &
Courtyard...........................................6 B3 Tokyo@The Towers.......................(see 13) Suites............................................ G3
27
Desert Rangers...................................7 A3 Vu's...............................................(see 13) Dusit Dubai......................................28 G3
Dubai Wildlife & Waterbird Sanctuary... 8 H5 Zaatar W Zeit...................................18 G3 Emirates Towers.............................(see 13)
Jam Jar............................................... 9 A3 Fairmont..........................................29 H3
Knight Tours.....................................10 F3 ENTERTAINMENT (pp123 35) Ibis World Trade Centre...................30 H3
Meem Gallery.................................. 11 A3 Agency..........................................(see 13) Novotel World Trade Centre............31 H3
Third Line.........................................12 B3 Blue Bar..........................................(see 31) Qamardeen......................................32 F3
Cin-Cin Wine Bar...........................(see 29) Shangri-La....................................... 33 G3
SHOPPING (pp85 102) Cosmo Caf�.....................................19 H3 The Palace, Old Town...................... 34 G3
25
Azza Fahmy Jewellery....................(see 13) Fibber McGee's..............................(see 15)
Nad al-
Boulevard at Emirates Towers........... 13 H3 Harry Ghatto's...............................(see 13) TRANSPORT (pp175 81)
Sheba
Boutique 1.....................................(see 13) Ikandy............................................(see 33) British Airways..................................35 G3
Racecourse
Emilio Pucci....................................(see 13) Long's Bar........................................20 G3 Diamondlease..................................36 H3
Gold & Diamond Park...................... 14 A3 Lotus One........................................21 H3 Emirates............................................ E3
37
Ras al-Khor
Marrakech.....................................(see 33) Etihad Airways.................................38 G3
EATING (pp103 22) Nezesaussi......................................(see 26) Lufthansa Airlines............................. E3
39
Al-Nafoorah...................................(see 13) Shakespeare & Co............................22 G3 Singapore Airlines..........................(see 37)
Al-Tannour...................................... 15 H3 Vu's Bar.........................................(see 13) Wolfi's Bike Shop..............................40 E3
72 73
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NEIGHBOURHOODS SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD
NEIGHBOURHOODS SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD
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irah Rd
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For those travelling with children, it s an
Courtyard ( 347 5050) and locally-owned
x
JUMEIRAH
appealing alternative to an afternoon in
Courtyard Gallery & Caf� ( 347 9090).
x
the mall.
Eating p117; Entertainment p128; Shopping p99; Sleeping p159
JAM JAR Map pp72 3
Before you were able to own a private desert island in the shape of your favourite country,
ART SPACE Map pp72 3
341 7303; www.thejamjardubai.com; off Sheikh
x
Jumeirah was the place where everybody went to realise their Dubai dreams. It s the emirate s
332 5523; 9th fl, Fairmont Hotel, Sheikh Zayed
Zayed Rd exit 39, near Dubai Garden Centre, Al- x
answer to Bondi or Malibu, with excellent public beaches, boutique shopping, copious spas
Rd; 10am-8pm Sat-Thu
h
Barsha; 10am-9pm Sat, Mon-Thu, 2-9pm Fri
x
and health clubs, and a mix of Mercedes and expensive 4WDs in villa driveways. The far end
There s always something interesting to see
The Jam Jar is more than just another art
of Jumeirah is home to some of Dubai s landmark buildings, including the Burj Al Arab and
at this refreshing commercial gallery with
gallery. It s a studio too, and if you re feel-
Madinat Jumeirah.
its focus on contemporary art and mission
ing the creative urge, you can hire an easel,
to promote local artists, develop an appre-
a canvas and all the paint and paper you
describing the architecture of the mosque
BURJ AL ARAB Map pp76 7
ciation for art and grow the local scene.
require to create your own masterpiece.
and introducing them to Islam plus the
301 7777; www.burj-al-arab.com; Jumeirah Rd,
x
Emirati culture and traditions. The Q&A
Umm Suqeim
session is viewed as a vital part of the visit,
In its first decade since opening, the Burj
so read up a little first (see the boxed text,
Al Arab has been more than just the iconic
p41). It s best to prebook, as it s becoming
symbol of a booming city in the sand;
increasingly popular, and make sure to
it has challenged preconceived ideas of
dress modestly (no shorts, cover back and
what an Arab country in the Middle East
arms, and women should wear a head-
can achieve. The Burj s statistics are cer-
scarf ). You ll also need to remove your
tainly impressive. It is built on an artificial
shoes before entering.
island 280m offshore from the Jumeirah
Beach Hotel and the sail-shaped build-
ing tops out at 321m. These numbers, of
MADINAT JUMEIRAH Map pp76 7
course, have been dwarfed by the newer
Al-Sufouh Rd, Jumeirah
Burj in town, but this five-star hotel (it s
The Madinat is a hotel, shopping and
best to ignore the nonsense about seven
entertainment complex that delights and
stars) is still worth visiting, if only to gawk
frustrates in equal measures. For starters, it
at an interior that s every bit as gaudy
is quite a sight  its exteriors are inspired
as the exterior is gorgeous. If you re not
by the ancient skyscrapers found in Saudi
staying at the hotel, you need a restau-
Arabia and Yemen, and the interiors are in-
rant reservation to get past the security
fluenced by old Arabian merchant houses.
gates. The most wallet-friendly option
There are some exquisite details here, so if
is to visit the Skyview Bar (although the
you see some stairs, take them  they
price of drinks will induce vertigo before
might lead you to a secreted terrace and
you ve even peered out the windows) or
wind-tower, with a mesmerising vista of
book an equally pricey afternoon tea at
the sprawling complex. If you re a hotel
Sahn Eddar. The unthinkable alternative,
guest, or have a restaurant reservation, you
however, is travelling all the way to Dubai
can catch the silent abras cruising along
and then leaving without going inside and
the Venetian-style canals from one loca-
forming an opinion on this extraordinary
tion to the next. If you re a day tripper and
building.
non-diner, your progress will be cut short
by staff patrolling the walkways to keep
the riff-raff from the souq away from the
JUMEIRAH MOSQUE Map pp76 7
hotels. More a themed shopping mall than
353 6666; Jumeira Rd; tour Dh10; 10am Sat,
x h
a traditional Arabian market, the souq is a
Sun, Tue & Thu
bit of a tourist trap. Prices are several times
The splendid, intricately detailed archi-
more expensive than they are in real souqs
tecture (stunningly lit at night) and the
and with a few exceptions, such as Pisces
opportunity to have a look inside (nor-
(p118) and the Noodle House (p117), the res-
mally non-Muslims are not able to enter
taurants overcharge for ordinary fare. The
mosques here) makes Jumeirah Mosque
well worth visiting. It is aimed at pro- Madinat Theatre (www.madinattheatre.com)
hosts musicals, plays, opera, ballet and
moting greater understanding between
festivals; and during the cooler winter
Muslims and other religions and cultures;
months, a traditional oud player enchants
the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural
the sheesha-smoking crowd in the souq s
Understanding s  Open Doors, Open Minds
central plaza.
tour takes visitors through the building
74 75
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NEIGHBOURHOODS SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD
NEIGHBOURHOODS JUMEIRAH
0 2 km
JUMEIRAH
0 1 miles
INFORMATION Lata's.............................................(see 17) Apartment.....................................(see 42)
Berlitz Language School.....................1 G3 Le Stock...........................................24 G3 Bahri Bar........................................(see 17)
Du.....................................................2 H3 Mercato Mall...................................25 G3 Barzar.............................................(see 17)
Dubai International Art Centre...........3 G3 Pride of Kashmir.............................(see 17) Boudoir..........................................(see 40)
Dubai London Clinic...........................4 F4 S*uce...............................................26 G3 Jam Base........................................(see 17)
F1 Net Caf�........................................5 H3 Showcase Antiques, Art & Frames....27 B4 Koubba..........................................(see 17)
Iranian Consulate...............................6 H3 Souq Madinat Jumeirah.................(see 17) Left Bank........................................(see 17)
Manchester Clinic..............................7 G3 Teheran Persian Carpet House & Mai Tai Lounge..............................(see 17)
Satwa Post Office.............................. 8 H4 Antiques....................................(see 25) Malecon.........................................(see 40)
Sho Cho.........................................(see 40)
SIGHTS (pp47 84) EATING (pp103 22) Skyview Bar...................................(see 10)
1x1 Art Space.....................................9 B4 Al-Qasr..........................................(see 40) Souq Madinat Jumeirah.................(see 17)
Burj Al Arab......................................10 A3 Bella Donna....................................(see 25)
Green Art Gallery.............................11 G3 Choithrams.......................................28 E4 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp137 47)
Iranian Mosque................................12 H3 Lime Tree Caf�.................................29 H3 Al Boom Diving................................ 37 H3
Jumeirah Archaeological Site............13 E4 Magnolia.......................................(see 17) Dubai Road Runners......................(see 20)
Jumeirah Beach Park.........................14 E3 Maria Bonita's Taco Shop................ 30 D4 Fatima Sports...................................38 C3
T H E
Jumeirah Mosque............................ 15 H3 Pierchic............................................31 A3 Kite Beach......................................(see 16)
G U L F
Kite Beach........................................16 C3 Pisces & P2 Brasserie......................(see 17) Nail Spa..........................................(see 25)
Madinat Jumeirah............................17 A3 Ravi................................................. 32 H4 Sensasia........................................... 39 H3
Majlis Ghorfat Um-al-Sheef..............18 E3 Shoo Fee Ma Fee...........................(see 17) Talise Spa.......................................(see 17)
Russian Beach (Public Beach)............19 H3 Sidra................................................ 33 H3 Wild Wadi Waterpark....................(see 22)
Safa Park..........................................20 E4 Smiling BKK.....................................34 G4
Umm Suqeim Beach.........................21 B3 Spinneys..........................................(see 2) SLEEPING (pp149 63)
Wild Wadi Waterpark......................22 A3 Spinneys........................................(see 25) Al-Qasr, Madinat Jumeirah............(see 17)
Spinneys.......................................... 35 D4 Burj Al Arab....................................(see 10)
SHOPPING (pp85 102) Zheng He's....................................(see 17) Dubai Marine Beach Resort & Spa....40 H3
Blue Cactus......................................23 H3 Fusion Hotel.....................................41 D4
Camel Company............................(see 17) ENTERTAINMENT (pp123 35) Jumeirah Beach Hotel.......................42 A3
Fleurt.............................................(see 25) 360�................................................ 36 B3 La Maison d'H�tes............................ F3
43
Gallery One Fine Art Photographs..(see 17) Agency..........................................(see 17) Mina A' Salam, Madinat Jumeirah...(see 17)
40
19
39 5
3 26
See Bur Dubai
Jumeirah
(North) Map
Beach Park 2 29 15 pp62 3
36 1
D 24 23
10 25 7
14
16
94 6
37 33
38 12
31 21
11
22 42 43
18
17 Al-Dhiyafah
Rd
Wild Wadi Jumeirah Rd
27 Satwa
Waterpark D
Jumeirah
13 Roundabout
4
Umm
30
92
Suqeim 32
28 D
34
8
90
D
See New
Dubai Map
Safa Park 73
pp82 3
20 Satwa
41
35
9
Za' abeel
Safa Interchange
Roundabout
No 2
Interchange
E
Sheikh Zayed Rd
No 4
11
See Bur Dubai
(South) Map
Interchange
pp64 5
No 3
Mall of the
Emirates
Horse
Racecourse
See Sheikh
Zayed Rd Map
pp72 3
Al-Quoz
E
44
Al-Marqadh
76 77
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NEIGHBOURHOODS JUMEIRAH
NEIGHBOURHOODS JUMEIRAH
d
Jumeirah R
irah Rd
Jume
asl Rd
Al-W
Al-Satwa Rd
313 Al-Athar
asl Rd
Al-W
asl Rd
Al-W
St
Sheikh Zayed Rd
Muscat
Rd
Rd
Za'abeel
Doha Rd
2nd
son will book the entire joint to swim in a With regular temporary exhibitions and a
lycra bodysuit that only reveals his eyes and growing permanent collection concentrat-
PUBLIC EXPOSURE
nose. Rumours are that some lifeguards on ing on the work of artists living in the UAE,
If you re not staying at a five star with access to some sand, and want to be able to say you ve swum in the Arabian Sea
duty in 2005 suffered post-traumatic stress this small, altruistic commercial gallery is
(or at least dipped your toes in the water), you ve got two options: either head to one of Dubai s free public beaches
disorder after seeing such an event. committed to nurturing local talent and
or pay for a day at a beach club.
developing the art scene. It also helps
educate artists about international art
MAJLIS GHORFAT UM-AL-SHEEF
distribution and promotion, and the web-
Dipping Without Dirhams
Map pp76 7
site features selections from upcoming and
Dubai s free beaches& 17 St, near Jumeirah Beach Park; admission Dh1;
past exhibitions.
8.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-8.30pm Sat-Thu, 3.30-
h
Russian Beach (Map pp76 7; next to Dubai Marine Beach Resort & Spa, Jumeirah) Also known as Open Beach, this is
8.30pm Fri
one of Dubai s few truly public spaces. As such, it reflects the multicultural nature of Dubai society and is a great place
IRANIAN MOSQUE Map pp76 7
It is unusual to find a traditional building
for a walk, especially on a Friday when most guest workers have the day off and take to picnicking, playing volleyball
still standing so far from the Creek, but this Al-Wasl Rd, Satwa
and splashing around in the ocean. We have reservations about recommending it as a destination for sunbathing. The
one, south of Jumeirah Beach Park, has Shiite mosques are noteworthy for their
city still struggles to deal with beach pests, packs of men who head to the beaches at the weekends to stare at and
been well restored and is worth a visit. The exquisite fa�ence (green-and-blue-coloured
photograph women. Physical harassment is extremely rare, but it s probably worth spending a little extra money or
two-storey structure was built in 1955 and and glazed) tile work covering the fa�ade
waiting for a women-only day. Showers and kiosk are available.
was attended in the evenings by Sheikh and main dome. A stunning Dubai example
Kite Beach (Map p52; behind old Wollongong University campus, Umm Suqeim 4) This long pristine beach is a great
Rashid bin Saeed al-Maktoum. Here he is the Iranian Mosque in Satwa  and the
place to sunbathe, except for the kite surfers (hence the name), whose abilities range from good to good grief. No
would listen to his people s complaints, Iranian Hospital, adjacent and opposite, carries
facilities.
grievances and ideas. The majlis also pro- this same type of tile work.
Umm Suqeim Beach (Map p52; btwn Jumeirah Beach Hotel & Kite Beach) This white sandy beach, with fabulous vided a cool retreat from the heat of the
views of the Burj, is popular with Jumeirah families and Western expatriates. Showers and shelter. day because it is made of gypsum and coral
JUMEIRAH ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
rock, traditional building materials of the
Map pp76 7
Gulf, and the roof is made of palm fronds
Off 27 St (look for a large fenced-in area) near
Beaches for Bucks
(areesh). The majlis is decorated with cush-
Jumeirah Beach Park, Jumeirah
The ones that cost&
ions, rugs, a coffeepot, pottery and food
Only really of interest to archaeology buffs,
Jumeirah Beach Park (pp76-7; per person/car Dh5/20; 8am-11pm, women & children only Sat & Mon) It s a real platters, and is pretty close to the way it
h
this is one of the most significant and larg-
treat to take a walk on the grass at this verdant park, as it s a couple of degrees cooler than the beach. Fronting onto would have looked in Sheikh Rashid s day.
est archaeological sites in the UAE, where
a long stretch of Jumeirah Beach, the beach has lifeguards on duty, a children s play area, barbecues, picnic tables,
items dating from the 6th century AD were
walkways and kiosks.
GREEN ART GALLERY Map pp76 7
found and can be seen at Dubai Museum (p61)
344 9888; www.gagallery.com; behind Dubai and the Heritage Village (p67). Surrounded by
Khor al-Mamzar (Map p52; per person/car Dh5/30; 8am-11pm; women & children only Wed) This calm inlet x
h
Zoo, Jumeirah; 9.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-9pm atmosphere-inhibiting modern villas, the
must be one of the prettiest spots to swim, although construction on the Palm Deira is becoming an increasing h
Sat-Thu settlement is interesting in that it spans the
eyesore. Showers, picnicking facilities and tour groups galore.
One&Only Royal Mirage (p162) If you re not a guest, you have to win a mini-lottery to gain access to this
groomed beach and pool with views of the Palm development (adult Dh175). You have to turn up on the day
(they don t accept advance bookings) and hope that hotel occupancy is below 80%. Only couples are permitted 
GET LOST: BUR DUBAI, SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD & JUMEIRAH
no children.
Al-Musallah (Map pp62 3) Most people walk down Al-Musallah Rd only to reach Bastakia, but it s a shame not to
Hilton Dubai Jumeirah (p163) Parents love the non-stop organised kids activities, water sports and comparatively
explore the animated backstreets of this area. The roads behind Dubai Museum are the city s  Little India , where
low prices (adult/child weekdays Dh180/95, weekends Dh250/95).
you ll see lots of textile stores, cheap restaurants, hair salons (amusingly called  saloons in the Emirates), and men on
Le Meridien Mina Seyahi (p163) This good beach and its great pools are popular with a more body-conscious
the street watching cricket through the windows of cafeterias.
clubbing set (Sunday to Thursday adult/child Dh150/75). The weekends are reserved for hotel guests and
Karama (Map pp64 5) Wandering the gritty backstreets of the lower-income expat community in Karama is interesting,
members.
especially if you re sociable and chat to the affable shopkeepers. The district is best known for its laissez-faire attitude
towards patents, copyrights and intellectual property  bootleg DVDs, handbags, football shirts and perfumes are widely
available here. In most cases you get what you pay for. It s also fantastic for food, with dozens of restaurants serving the as-
are water-safety lessons for children, more
WILD WADI WATERPARK Map pp76 7
sorted cuisines of the Indian subcontinent. At many of the restaurants you can eat well and get change from a Dh20 note.
sedate rides for young children and nervous
348 4444; www.wildwadi.com; Jumeirah Rd,
x
adults, two Flowriders (artificial waves) and
Jumeirah; adult/child Dh180/150; 11am-6pm Satwa (Map pp72 3) In the space between the swanky skyscrapers of Sheikh Zayed Rd and the cosmopolitan
h
the truly terrifying near-freefall Jumeirah
Nov-Feb, 11am-7pm Mar-May & Sep-Oct, 11am- swagger of Dubai s best street for eating, Al-Dhiyafha Rd, is this fascinating residential area. The villas here are so
Sceirah (hold on to your trunks, lads). Many
9pm Jun-Aug odd-looking, uneven and colourful (pink and yellow are popular choices) they look like they ve been designed by kids
people settle in for a few hours; the body
Wild Wadi seems to satisfy everyone s needs, in a classroom. It s quite common for 15 to 20 people to share a single villa; you ll see sofas and even beds on the roof
boards and tubes are free, and food and
with dozens of ingeniously interconnected and the road, such is the lack of space. The souq-like main thoroughfare, Satwa Rd, comes alive at night in a riotous
drinks are available via a clever debit card
rides based on the legend of Arabian adven- blaze of neon. Unless you want a cheap haircut or a new set of keys, it s unlikely many of the shops will appeal, but
attached to your wrist. It s important to call
turer Juha and his friend, Sinbad the sailor, it s definitely worth refuelling at Ravi (p119). Don t miss Al-Hudaiba Rd, known locally as  Plant Street . It s home to
ahead before you visit: if it isn t closed to
who are shipwrecked on a lush lagoon, a few good florists, a great Filipino supermarket, a couple of excellent fruit and veg shops, and pet shop owners who
men (occasional Thursday night is women-
beyond which lies a magical oasis. There should thank their lucky stars animal welfare is such a fringe concern in this city.
only), there s a remote chance Michael Jack-
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pre-Islamic and Islamic eras and was once a leries. 1x1 Art Space aims to redress the im-
NEW DUBAI
caravan stop on a route linking Ctesiphon balance by exhibiting Indian and Pakistani
(now Iraq) to northern Oman. Remains contemporary art in its elegant gallery.
Eating p119; Entertainment p130; Shopping p101; Sleeping p162
from here link it with the Persian Sassanid
There s an expat fable about a couple who move into the penthouse suite of a high-rise Marina
Empire, dominant in the region from the
SAFA PARK Map pp76 7
apartment with amazing views of the Burj Al Arab, the Palm Jumeirah and The World. Feeling
3rd to 6th centuries AD, and the Umayyad
Cnr Al-Wasl Rd & Al-Hadiqa St, Safa; admission Dh5;
smug about the postcard perfection of their dream life in the Emirates, they retire to bed. The
dynasty in the 7th century, when Islam ar-
8am-11pm, women & children only Tue
h
following morning they wake up, pull back the curtains, and are devastated to discover a block
rived in the Gulf.
This very popular park stretches for 1km
of apartments entirely obscuring their view.
from Al-Wasl Rd to Sheikh Zayed Rd. Lots
The couple should consider themselves lucky that only one building materialised from noth-
1X1 ART SPACE Map p52
of cricket is played on the wide grassy
ing overnight. New Dubai, as it s unimaginatively known, is thought to be the fastest-growing
348 3873; www.1x1artspace.com; Villa 1023, expanses at weekends, and after dark the
x
place on earth. The figures are mind-blowing. In a few years time, the combined population
Al-Mahara, Al-Wasl Rd; 11am-8pm Sat-Thu rides (near Al-Wasl Rd) get busy. There are
h
of the Palm Jumeirah, Palm Jebel Ali and Dubai Waterfront is expected to be over a million
Expats from the Indian subcontinent make tennis courts, a soccer pitch, barbecues, an
people (with a further million living on the Palm Deira). The Palm Jumeirah will be home to
up a huge chunk of Dubai s population, yet artificial waterfall, and a lake where you can
30 luxury hotels, and the Dubai Waterfront alone will add 800km to the emirate s coastline.
they re under-represented in the city s gal- hire paddle boats.
It s hard to keep up. In the previous edition of this book we didn t require a separate section
for New Dubai. In the next edition we might have to add a further section: New New Dubai?
FORTHCOMING ATTRACTIONS
It s believed that a third of the world s cranes are in Dubai. Here are some of the more ambitious projects underway (for
soon-to-open luxury hotels, see the boxed text, p162). You might just spot a theme developing&
Bawadi How s this for ambition? Bawadi will consist of 51 hotels and 60,000 hotel rooms, plus lots of shopping
malls, theme parks and restaurants. No half-measures in this city.
Burj Al Alam One of countless skyscrapers in the Business Bay district, Alam is expected to become one of the 10
tallest buildings in the world upon completion.
Culture Village Whaddya mean Dubai has no culture? It s soon to have an entire satellite town dedicated to the
clever stuff. Culture Village will feature academies, galleries, workshops, craft studios and, of course, luxury villas.
Dubailand Bawadi, Mall of Arabia, Dubai Sports City and plenty of other developments will all be part of Dubailand,
which as far as we can tell, will be significantly bigger  and much more fun  than life itself.
Dubai Waterfront A series of manmade islands forming around the Palm Jebel Ali, Dubai Waterfront will eventually
be home to around 400,000 people. It will be the largest manmade development in the world.
Dubai World Central International Airport The planet s biggest airport will also be home to its biggest car park.
Now they re just showing off&
Great Dubai Wheel The 185m observation wheel will be  surprise  the biggest in the world. It will offer pano-
ramic views of the city.
Falcon City of Wonders A theme park featuring replicas of the Eiffel Tower, the Taj Mahal and the Leaning Tower of
Pisa, among others. Why go anywhere else?
Lyon-Dubai City The rebuilding of the French city of Lyon in the desert is perhaps the single most bonkers Dubai
project so far, and there s been no shortage of competition.
Meydan A city-within-a-city dedicated to horse racing. For fans only.
55� Time Dubai The world s first rotating skyscraper to be powered by the sun. And why ever not?
Palm Deira This set of artificial islands, the concluding chapter of the Palm trilogy, will be 10 times larger than the
Palm Jumeirah and home to approximately a million people by 2020.
Palm Jebel Ali Expected to burst into life some time around 2010, the second Palm, when seen from above, spells
out a verse of poetry written by Sheikh Mohammed:  Take wisdom from the wise. Not everybody who rides a horse is
a jockey. It takes a man of great vision to write on water. Great men rise to great challenges.
Pentominium The world s tallest residential building has been saddled with one of the world s worst building
names. It ll tower over the rest of Dubai Marina.
The Universe Here s how you trump The World. Islands built in the shape of the sun, the moon and the planet of the
solar system will fill the gap between the Palm Deira and the Palm Jumeirah. But where do they go from here?
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NEIGHBOURHOODS NEW DUBAI
0 2 km
NEW DUBAI
0 1 miles
SIGHTS (pp47 84) Eauzone.........................................(see 12) SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp137 47)
Dubai Community Theatre & Grand Grill......................................... 4 D4 Emirates Golf Club.............................. E5
6
Arts Centre...................................(see 2) Indego.............................................(see 8) Fitness First......................................(see 1)
Karam Beirut....................................(see 2) Food-Based Body Scrubs................(see 13)
SHOPPING (pp85 102) Nina...............................................(see 12) Givenchy Spa.................................(see 12)
Aizone.............................................(see 2) Rhodes Mezzanine...........................(see 8) Jet Set..............................................(see 8)
Al-Jaber Gallery................................(see 2) Royal Orchid......................................5 D4 Nail Spa............................................(see 1)
Charles & Keith................................(see 2) Splendido.......................................(see 13) Oriental Hammam.........................(see 12)
Forever 21........................................(see 2) Tagine............................................(see 12) Rasul Mud Treatment.......................(see 8)
Ginger & Lace..................................(see 1) Tang..............................................(see 10) Retreat.............................................(see 8)
Ibn Battuta Mall.................................1 A4 Ritz-Carlton Spa.............................(see 13)
Mall of the Emirates........................... 2 H5 ENTERTAINMENT (pp123 35) Ski Dubai.........................................(see 2)
Marina Market, Dubai Marina..........(see 5) AprŁs...............................................(see 2) Soft Touch Spa.................................(see 2)
Mumbai Sei......................................(see 1) Bar 44..............................................(see 8)
Pixi...................................................(see 2) Barasti Bar......................................(see 10) SLEEPING (pp149 63)
Rectangle Jaune...............................(see 2) Buddha Bar......................................(see 8) Corp Executive Hotel......................... 7 H5
Gold Class........................................(see 2) Grosvenor House............................... 8 D4
T H E
EATING (pp103 22) Kasbar............................................(see 12) Hilton Dubai Jumeirah........................9 C4
Almaz by Momo..............................(see 2) Library Bar......................................(see 13) Kempinski........................................(see 2) G U L F
Bice..................................................(see 9) Maya.............................................(see 11) Le Meridien Mina Seyahi..................10 D4
Buddha Bar......................................(see 8) Peppermint Club..............................(see 4) Le Royal Meridien............................ 11 D4
Carrefour.........................................(see 2) Rooftop Bar....................................(see 12) One&Only Royal Mirage..................12 E4
Carrefour.........................................(see 1) Sheesha Ritz-Carlton Hotel............................13 D4
Certo..................................................3 E4 Courtyard...................................(see 12) Westin Mina Seyahi......................... 14 D4
The Palm,
Jumeirah (Under
Construction)
T H E
G U L F
14
4
9
13
11
10
12
8
Dubai
Marina
3
5
To Jebel Ali (16km) See Jumeirah
E
Map pp76 7
Oud Metha Rd
11
1
Interchange
Emirates New
No 5
Golf Dubai
Club
6
Interchange
E
No 4
11
Al-Sufouh
7
2
See Sheikh
Zayed Rd
Map pp72 3
Jebel Ali
Racecourse
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� Lonely Planet Publications
Even Newer Dubai? Or perhaps today s New Dubai becomes Middle-Aged Dubai. We ll work
something out&
There s no sightseeing in the traditional sense here. There are no museums or historical
sights, but there will soon be dozens of hotels and shopping malls, hundreds of restaurants
and bars, long sandy beaches and some of the most extraordinary constructions ever made
by man.
workshop, DUCTAC, as it s known, is the
DUBAI COMMUNITY THEATRE &
best-equipped arts centre in the country.
ARTS CENTRE
As well as arts classes for residents, it puts
341 4777; www.ductac.org; 2nd fl, Mall of
x
on a diverse range of productions rang-
the Emirates, entrance from Ski Dubai car park;
ing from the memorable (Henry Rollins)
9am-10pm Sat-Thu, 2-10pm Fri
h
to those we would rather forget (Flying
With a 543-seat theatre and studio theatre,
Superkids).
art gallery, rehearsal rooms and pottery
� Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
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NEIGHBOURHOODS NEW DUBAI