� Lonely Planet Publications
EXCURSIONS
What s your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/barcelona
EXCURSIONS
Barcelona is just the beginning. Once you break through the choking ring of satellite suburbs
and dormitory towns surrounding the capital, one of Spain s most diverse regions unfolds
before you. Catalonia (Catalunya to the locals), a land with its own language and proud his-
tory setting it apart from the rest of Spain, offers everything from golden beaches to wicked ski
runs, medieval monasteries to Roman ruins, top-quality wines to the art of Salvador Dal�. A
weekender to Barcelona could easily be converted into a couple of weeks exploring the bustling
city s hinterland.
The region, covering 31,932 sq km, is bounded by the mighty Pyrenees range and the French
frontier to the north, the Mediterranean Sea to the east and the inland region of Aragón to
the west.
Barcelona is the big boy nowadays, but in the times of ancient Rome it was Tarragona that
lorded it over this neck of the empire. Evidence in this sunny port town of Roman grandeur
includes the forum, amphitheatre and remains of the circus (chariot race track). To the northeast
of Barcelona, the intensely Catalan town of Girona (you ll be lucky to hear Spanish) flourished
during the Middle Ages. Its tightly packed medieval centre remains largely intact. To the north
of Girona lies Figueres, stronghold of the hallucinatory genius of Salvador Dal�.
Catalonia is not all high culture. Myriad beaches, coves and seaside locales dot the
breathtakingly rugged spectacle of the Costa Brava northeast of Barcelona. Another fine strand
southwest of town is Sitges, loaded with bars and an obligatory stop on the gay partygoers
European circuit. Those who take their hedonism with more restraint can trundle around the
PenedŁs wine country west of Barcelona. And to uplift the soul, the jagged mountain range of
Montserrat makes the perfect antidote to a seaside hangover.
old town centre, Girona makes an enchant-
ANCIENT CITIES
ing counterpoint to the sprawl of the region s
Tarragona (p259) is a busy port and beachside city
capital.
with an unfair amount of sunshine! South-
west of Barcelona, it is the place in Catalonia
for those wanting to know what the Romans
DAL� MANIA
ever did for any of us. Apart from the well-
Zany Salvador Dal�, with his upturned handle-
preserved vestiges of the city s amphitheatre,
bar moustache, outlandish dream paintings
circus (where chariot races were held) and
and outrageous lifestyle, is surely the most
forum, Tarragona has an archaeological mu-
colourful character to emerge from 20th-
seum replete with ancient artefacts. Inland
century Catalonia. For all his globetrotting,
and to the northeast of Barcelona lies another
he left the greater part of his artistic legacy
Roman settlement, Girona (p246). With its closely
on home turf. The core rests in his theatre-
cluttered medieval buildings in the crowded
museum-mausoleum in Figueres (p249), a half-
hour north of Girona by train. Enthusiasts can
seek out more of his work in several nearby
ORGANISED TOURS
locations, including the magical coastal towns
The Bus Tur�stic that takes people around Barcelona
of Cadaqu�s (p254) and Port Lligat (p251).
(see p266) has been such a success that the concept
has been extended in the form of Catalunya Bus
WINE, PARTIES & PIETY
Tur�stic (Map pp64 5; 93 285 38 32; Pla�a de
%
Barely 50km west of Barcelona stretch the
Catalunya), a series of day tours from Barcelona to
vineyards of one of Spain s premier wine-
various parts of the region. There are two routes:
making regions, the PenedŁs (p257). Most of the
Girona and Figueres; and Vilafranca del PenedŁs
national production of cava, the local version
(Torres winery visit), Montserrat and Sitges. Both run
of bubbly, pours out of this region. Alongside
daily (except Monday) from March to October, leaving
known names such as Freixenet and Codor-
at 8.30am and returning at 8pm, and cost Ź 66. The
n�u, countless smaller wineries are in constant
tours leave from Pla�a de Catalunya.
ferment.
244
lonelyplanet.com
EXCURSIONS
EXCURSIONS RUNNINGHEADB
40 km
20 miles
Costa Brava
S E A
Cap de Creus
Illes Medes
Submarina
Aigua Blava
Fornells de Mar
Calella de Palafrugell
Cala Montjoi
Illes Formigues
Cap de Sant Sebastią
Cap Roig
Roses
Golf de
Roses
Cap de Creus
CerbŁre
Parc Natural del
Portbou
L'Escala
L'Estartit
Torroella de Montgri
(p253)
Begur
M E D I T E R R A N E A N
Empśries
Sant Mart� d'Empśries
N-260
0
0
Pals
Sa Punta
Platja d'Aro
C-66
Llan�ą
Verges
Sant Feliu
de Gu�xols
Llafranc
C-31
Castelló
Cadaqu�s
d'Empśries
Palamós
Palafrugell
Tamariu
La Pera
Ter
Viladamat
Reserva Natural
A-2
Calonge
C-35
Tossa de Mar
La Bisbal
Parc Natural
de l'Empordą
dels Aiguamolls
(20km)
La Jonquera
Route
AP-7
Castell
Lloret de Mar
de Pśbol
AP-7
(p249)
C-65
Summer Boat
Figueres
Llagostera
N-260
Blanes
C-63
Vidreres
Embalse
N-11
de Boadella
(p246)
Am�lie-les-
To Perpignan
Besalś
Calella
C-63
Bains-Palalda
C-32
Banyoles
Sant Pol de Mar
AnglŁs
d'Empordą
G I R O N A
Tordera
Ma�anet
de la Selva
Ibiza & Menorca
C-63
Girona
To Genoa, Mallorca,
Arenys de Mar
Serra de
e
Montnegre
Caldes d'Estrac
de la Garrotxa
C-66
Mataró
Parc Natural de
la Zona Volc�nica
Parc Natural
del Montnegre
Olot
la Preste
de Sau
Embalse
Sant Celoni
Prats-de-Mollo-
AP-7
C-32
C-152
Cardedeu
La Garriga
N-260
Argentona
Parc Natural
Badalona
Vic
del Montseny
C-17
Camprodon
BARCELONA
C-17
Tona
Granollers
F R A N C E
N-152
Montbui
Caldes de
Ripoll
El Prat de
Llobregat
C-16
Sabadell
Sant Cugat
C-25
A-16
Terrassa
Castelldefels
Martorell
Sant Lloren�
Castellv�
del VallŁs
de Rosanes
Parc Natural de
B A R C E L O N A
La Molina
Berga
C-16
Manresa
C-16
A-2
Sitges
(p255)
Puigcerdą
Sant
Sadurn�
d'Anoia
C-37
del Munt
Parc Natural
de Cad�-Moixeró
(p252)
Montserrat
Cardona
Monestir de
Montserrat
C-15
la Geltrś
o
s
PenedŁs
Vilanova i
El Pla del
N-260
C-32
Igualada
AP-7
Vilafranca
del PenedŁs
AP-7
n
Coma-ruga
See PenedŁs Wine Country Map (p257)
La Seu d'Urgell
A N D O R R A
Solsona
El Vendrell
A-7
C-25
Pantą
C-14
Oliana
A-2
AP-2
(p259)
Tarragona
Reial Monestir
Sarral
C
A
T
A
L
O
N
I
A
de Santes Creus
AP-7
Cervera
N-240
Pantą
de Rialb
Valls
C-14
Tąrrega
Montblanc
C-14
Reus
L L E I D A
L'Espluga
de Francol�
C-26
Salou
T A R R A G O N A
les Monges
La Conca
de Barberą
Reial Monestir
de Santa Maria
de Vallbona de
Pantą de
de Poblet
Port
Sant Antoni
Reial Monestir
de Santa Maria
Aventura
Cambrils
Tremp
Prades
Pantą de
Terradats
N-240
AP-2
(225km)
Balaguer
To Valencia
�
a
t
C
Can
a
l
a
r
e
sway of Barcelona in the late 9th century. Its
( 972 21 44 26; www.catedraldegirona.org; Pla�a de la
%
medieval wealth produced a plethora of fine
Catedral; museum adult/child under 7yr/child 7-16yr/senior
BUBBLES AND MUD
Romanesque and Gothic buildings that sur-
& student Ź 5/free/1.20/3, Sun free; 10am-8pm Apr-Oct,
h
For some, a day at the beach just isn t enough (and a little impractical in winter!). Never fear, for wellness is here. Indeed,
vived repeated assaults and sieges to give us
10am-7pm Nov-Mar) makes an obvious starting
it always was. Since Roman days, thermal baths have operated in various parts of Catalonia. Now there are 20 across
pleasure today.
point for exploration. Most of the edifice,
the region, and several of them less than 40km from Barcelona.
The narrow streets of the old town climb in
which has been altered repeatedly, is a great
In La Garriga, a pretty town 36km north of the city, are two fine historic installations that have been modernised.
a web above the east bank of the Riu Onyar.
deal older than its exterior suggests. Wander
Termes La Garriga ( 93 871 70 86; www.termes.com; Carrer dels Banys 23; 9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-
% h
Commanding the northern half of the city
inside to appreciate this. First you find your-
1.30pm Sun) sits atop waters that bubble out at temperatures as high as 60�C. All sorts of treatments are possible, from
with its majestic baroque fa�ade placed high
self in Europe s widest Gothic nave (23m),
mud baths to aroma massage. For Ź 32 you can spend half a day (three hours) wandering between a couple of pools,
over a breezy square and stairway, the Catedral
but other treasures await in and beyond the
sauna and various showers. You have to book ahead. The other luxury option here is the five-star Gran Hotel Blancafort
( 93 860 56 00; www.balnearioblancafort.com; Carrer de la Mina 7; s/d from Ź 130/260), which is out of the centre.
%
0 200 m
GIRONA
0 0.1 miles
After bathing, go for a stroll around town, especially along the street hugging the railway line, and admire mansions,
many of them Modernista, built by Barcelona s wealthy elite as summer retreats around the turn of the 20th century.
In the pleasant seaside town of Caldes d Estrac, 36km northeast of Barcelona, the Romans loved to slop around in
To Palafrugell (35km);
1
INFORMATION Figueres (38km);
the thermal waters. You can emulate them in the Balneari de Caldes d Estrac ( 93 791 26 05; Carrer de la Riera 29; France (61km)
%
Polic�a Nacional..................................1 D1
Tourist Office.....................................2 C3
admission Ź 6.10; 9am-1.30pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun). These public baths were built in the early 19th
h
Pla�a
de Sant
century, although people have been bathing in the waters for at least a couple of millennia. Come up on the train for SIGHTS (pp246 9)
Pere
Banys Ąrabs.......................................3 C2
7
a day and split your time between the baths (you are given about 20 minutes) and other extra treatments if you wish,
Catedral.............................................4 D2
n
Esgl�sia de Sant Feliu..........................5 C2
lunch and the beach. Or you could stay at the luxury Hotel Colón ( 93 791 04 00; www.hotel-colon.net; Pla�a de
%
Esgl�sia de Sant Feliu Entrance...........6 C2 8
les Barques s/n; d Ź 194) and use its modern spa facilities. It offers all sorts of packages.
Esgl�sia de Sant Nicolau......................7 D1
Monestir de Sant Pere de Galligants...8 D1 Pla�a
Caldes de Montbui, 28km north of Barcelona, hosts three thermal bath hotels. You can use the facilities even if you
5
3
de Sant
Museu Arqueol�gic..........................(see 8)
Feliu
don t stay in the hotels, although the price can mount depending on what you opt for. Broquetas Balneario ( 93 Museu d'Art.......................................9 D2
%
13
Museu d'Hist�ria de la Ciutat...........10 C2
6
4
865 01 00; www.grupbroquetas.com; Pla�a de la Font del Lleó 1) is the town s historic spa hotel, in front of the Roman
Pla�a
Museu d'Hist�ria dels Jueus de
de la
Girona..........................................11 C2
baths, and a public fountain (Font del Lleó) from which water has been spouting forth at a scorching 74�C since the
Catedral
9
Museu del Cinema...........................12 C3
10
16th century. Founded in the 18th century and rebuilt several times, it is a predominantly Modernista building. Inside b
EATING (p249)
it boasts an original Roman vaporarium, a 2nd-century AD steam bath. A session in the thermal pool and cervical
K�nig...............................................13 C2
16
showers ( 9am-1.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1.30pm & 4.30-9.30pm Sat & Sun) costs Ź 22 (or Ź 28 for
h
Restaurant Albereda.........................14 C4
two people). This gives you 20 minutes, plus the use of the outdoor heated pool. Book ahead. Hotel Termes Victoria
Pla�a 11 Pla�a
SLEEPING (p249)
de la de Sant
IndependŁncia
( 93 865 01 50; www.termesvictoria.com; Carrer de Barcelona 12) is a luxury spa hotel. You can use its facilities Bed & Breakfast Bells Oficis..............15 C3 DomŁnec
%
Hotel Hist�ric...................................16 D2
(thermal pool session Ź 15.40; 8am-1pm & 4-9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun). The town is hardly stunning but worth
h
a wander. If you find it open, the Museo Delger (Carrer del Dr Delger; noon-1pm 1st & 2nd Sun of month), an
h
18th-century mansion stuffed with period furniture, is worth a look. Ask at the tourist office ( 93 865 41 40; www
%
.caldesdemontbui.org; Pla�a de la Font del Lleó 20; 11am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun). Caldes d Estrac
h
Pla�a de
and La Garriga are easily reached by rodalies trains from Barcelona. Caldes de Montbui is more easily reached by car or
Josep
Ferrater
Sagal�s bus (from Passeig de Sant Joan, 65 minutes, Ź 2.70).
i Mora
12
2
15
Barely 20km south of Vilafranca del myriad inlets and minuscule coves alternating
Pla�a
PenedŁs, Sitges (p255) was a modest fishing vil- with long expanses of golden sand and thick
del Vi
lage a century ago. It is now a party animal s stands of hardy pine, it begs to be explored.
se
14
haven, with a notable gay leaning, and the
Pla�a
de
scene of frenzied beachside Carnaval festivi-
Catalunya
ties in February. GIRONA
Pla�a de
I'Hospital
On another plane altogether is Catalo- Northern Catalonia s largest city, Girona
Jardines
de la
Pla�a Hospital de
nia s most revered mountain and monastery, (Gerona in Spanish) is draped in a valley 36km
Pla�a del Muralla
d'Eduard Santa Caterina
General
Marquina
Montserrat (p252), northwest of Barcelona. People inland from the Costa Brava and 91km north- Marvą
Parc
Central
come here to venerate the Black Madonna, east of Barcelona. Its medieval centre, which
explore the monastery s art treasures and walk seems to struggle uphill above the Riu Onyar,
Bus
Sation
exudes a quiet, contemplative magnetism.
in the weirdly shaped mountains.
Train
The Roman town of Gerunda lay on the Via Station
Pla�a
d'Espanya
Augusta, the highway from Rome to C�diz
Pla�a de
RUGGED COAST (Carrer de la For�a in Girona s old town
Miquel
Santaló
Too often dismissed because of its tainted follows part of its line). Wrested from the
package-holiday image, the bulk of the Costa Muslims by the Franks in AD 797, Girona
To Parc Hospitalari
Brava (Rugged Coast, p253) is a joyous spectacle became capital of one of Catalonia s most
Mart� i Julią To Airport (11km);
(Hospital; 2km) Barcelona (91km)
of nature. Blessed with high blustery cliffs, important counties, only falling under the
246 247
lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
EXCURSIONS GIRONA
EXCURSIONS GIRONA
N
A
v
de Fra
t
e
r
e
r
T
l
u
i
d
l
R
e
e
P
n�a
ug
e
r
d
f
a
l
a
a
d
P
n
u
a
o
P
e
t
R
d
n
a
S
e
C
d
C
C de Bellcair
e
C
d
e
S
a
L
a
t
u
c
i
�
Mart�
Rei
d
e
C
m
s
a
ó
S
P
g
R
i
u
A
G
a
r
l
q
l
i
g
a
e
n
C
P
t
s
o
R
g
l
�
d
g
i
u
i
e
Pujada da del
d
c
l
e
s
O
j
C
o
n
a
s
y
l
e
d
a
p
e
r
r
e
C
r
s
a
C
a
n
e
c
r
t
i
o
R
a
e
d
C
l
d
e
e
j
d
a
C
C
B
e
s
s
e
y
d
l
n
l
a
e
l
m
m
e
e
l
s
A
'
i
d
r
l
B
C
a
a
a
l
l
l
l
F
e
o
s
t
r
e
a
�
l
r
o
r
i
a
e
e
u
g
i
s
F
e
d
C
C dels
Artillers
d
r
�
v
o
a
l
a
C
i
r
m
l
e
s
e
e
n
A
t
l
'
d
d
a
e
n
t
C
C de la
r
d
e
o
C
g
Cort Reial
P
r
C
e
A
elles
d
s
a
s
c
e
h
s V
l
l
l
c
e
n
e
e
u
a
n
P
r
u
V
j
d
a
t
t
C de las
d
d
Ł
a
s
a
s
a
S
a
t
a
a
n
t
e
t
m
r
r
i
n
D
u
e
r
o
a
i
o
l
e
ia de Jaume I
b
Peixaterie
i
r
B
C
l
r
C
C
L
e
a
e
s
b
d
r
l
F
O
e
'
d
a
d
a
l
e
L
i
C
e
t
b
r
e
d
es
C
l
n
Gran V
e
a
d
e
C
S
d
Sequ�a
a
C
e
l
C de
d
b
m
a
C
R
C Nou
del T
Gran V
C Nou
eatr
e
e
c
n
a
r
F
t
n
e
Sa
d
v
A
a
d
ia de Jaume I
e
r
e
b
l
A

L
e
d
C
Gran V
P
Ronda de Sant Antoni M Clar
g
ia de Jaume I
d
e
l
G
ene
n
e
l
i
a
B
ra
e
d
l
C
M
et
a
n
alenti
d
o
a
z
t
a
e
r
r
a
a
n
G
o
l
C de Joan Maragall
�
e
l
c
u
r
J
a
e
e
B
C
m
d
d
r
e
l
e
B
i
a
s
b
C
e
d
L
o
C
r
e
n
C de Rafael Masó i V
z
a
l
n
C
a
e
d
C
cathedral museum. Head through the door (changing room), followed by the frigidarium
SLEEPING
marked  Claustre Tresor . The collection in- (cold water room) and tepidarium (hot water
TRANSPORT: GIRONA
Hotel Hist�ric ( 972 22 35 83; www.hotelhistoric.com;
%
cludes the masterly Romanesque Tap�s de la room), and the caldarium, a kind of sauna.
Distance from Barcelona 91km
Carrer de Bellmirall 4/a; s/d Ź 109/122; ) A bijou
pa
Creació (Creation Tapestry) and a priceless Across the street from the Banys Ąrabs, steps
Direction Northeast
hotel in a historic building in the heart of
Mozarabic illuminated Beatus manuscript lead up into lovely gardens that follow the
Travel time Up to 1� hours
old Girona. The eight pretty, spacious rooms
from AD 975. Beyond the museum you city walls in what is called the Passeig Arqueol�gic
Car Take the AP-7 motorway via Granollers.
are individually decorated, and there are also
emerge in the beautiful, if somewhat wonk- (Archaeological Walk) up to the 18th-century
Train At least 20 trains daily from Barcelona Sants
apartments.
ily shaped, 12th-century Romanesque cloister; Portal de Sant Crist�fol gate, from which you
station (Ź 5.90 to Ź 6.70).
Bed & Breakfast Bells Oficis ( 972 22 81 70; www
%
the 112 stone columns display whimsical, can walk back down to the cathedral.
.bellsoficis.com; Carrer dels Germans Busquets 2; r Ź 35-85;
albeit weathered, sculpture. During services About 100m north of the Banys Ąrabs across
) With just five rooms, this family-
(especially 10am to 2pm Sundays) you can the bubbling Riu Galligants stands the 11th- nai
13th-century Cabbalist philosopher and mys-
run option is perfectly placed just off Ram-
only visit the museum and cloister. and 12th-century Romanesque Monestir de Sant
tic, the centre is rather bare but hosts limited
bla de la Llibertat. The rooms are all very
Next door to the cathedral, in the 12th- to
Pere de Galligants ( 972 20 26 32; www.mac.es/girona;
% exhibitions. It is a focal point for studies of
different. The two best ones have balconies
16th-century Palau Episcopal, the Museu d Art
Carrer de Santa Llścia s/n; adult/senior & child Ź 2.30/free; Jewish Spain and claims to have the biggest
overlooking the Rambla. The biggest (Ź 85)
( 972 20 38 34; www.museuart.com; Pujada de la Catedral
% 10.30am-1.30pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sat Jun-Sep, 10am-2pm collection of Jewish funeral stones and sar-
h
has ample space for four people.
12; adult/child under 16yr/senior & student Ź 2/free/1.50; cophagi in the country.
& 4-6pm Tue-Sat Oct-May, 10am-2pm Sun & holidays), a
10am-7pm Tue-Sat Mar-Sep, 10am-6pm Tue-Sat Oct-Feb, There is not a great deal to see in the mod-
h modest monastery with a lovely cloister. Get
ern half of Girona, on the west bank of the
10am-2pm Sun & holidays) boasts an extensive collec- up close to the pillars that line the cloister.
FIGUERES
Riu Onyar. One outstanding exception is the
tion that ranges from occasionally delirious- The closer you look the weirder the medieval
Just 12km inland from the Golf de Roses,
looking Romanesque woodcarvings to rather imagination seems  all those bizarre animals Museu del Cinema ( 972 41 27 77; www.museudelcinema
%
Figueres (Figueras in Spanish) might gener-
more dour early-20th-century paintings. and mythical monsters! The monastery also .org; Carrer de SŁquia 1; adult/child under 16yr/senior & stu-
ously be described as a humdrum town with a
Girona s second great church, the Esgl�sia de houses the Museu Arqueol�gic, with exhibits that
dent Ź 4/free/4; 10am-8pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 10am-6pm
h
single serious attraction: Salvador Dal�. Born
range from prehistoric to medieval times, and
Sant Feliu (Pla�a de Sant Feliu; 11am-1pm & 4-6pm), is
h Tue-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat, 11am-3pm Sun Oct-Apr), housed
here in a two-storey 1898 Modernista house
include Roman mosaics and some medieval
downhill from the cathedral. The 17th-century
in the Casa de les Aig�es. Shadow puppets
(being restored and destined to be a museum
Jewish tombstones. Just opposite the monas-
main fa�ade, with its landmark single tower,
and magic lanterns introduce the Col.lecció
tery is the pretty Lombard-style 12th-century on Dal� s early days from 2010) at Carrer de
is on Pla�a de Sant Feliu, but the entrance is
Tomąs Mallol, a display that details the pre-
Romanesque Esgl�sia de Sant Nicolau. It is unusual Monturiol in 1904, Dal� maintained ties with
around the side. The nave has 13th-century
cursors to and story of the motion-picture
for its octagonal belltower, and it also has a his home territory in all his long years of per-
Romanesque arches but 14th- to 16th-century
business. Take a close look at some of the
triple apse in a trefoil plan.
Gothic upper levels. The northernmost of the egrination between Barcelona, Madrid, Paris
images for fairground magic lantern shows
South along Carrer de la For�a about 100m
chapels, at the far western end of the church, and the USA.
in the 18th century, like the devilish character
Towards the end of the Spanish Civil War
is graced by a masterly Catalan Gothic sculp- off the stairway leading up to Pla�a de la Cat-
working a bellows in someone s backside!
ture, Aloi de Montbrai s alabaster Crist Jacent edral, the Museu d Hist�ria de la Ciutat (City History in 1939, Figueres theatre was largely de-
(Recumbent Christ). It looks like it is made of stroyed by fire and subsequently left to rot. In
Museum; 972 22 22 29; www.ajuntament.gi/museuciutat;
%
perfectly moulded ice-cream. INFORMATION
1961, the by-now world-renowned eccentric
Carrer de la For�a 27; adult/senior & child under 16yr/student
The Banys Ąrabs (Arab Baths; 972 21 32 62; Carrer Dal� had the money to buy the site and work
% Ź 3/free/2; 10am-2pm & 5-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Parc Hospitalari (Hospital) Mart� i Julią ( 972 18 25
h %
de Ferran Cat�lic; admission Ź 1.80; 10am-7pm Tue-Sat on one of his wackier projects, the Teatre-Museu
h & holidays) traces Girona s history from ancient 00; Carrer del Doctor Castany s/n)
Dal� ( 972 67 75 00; www.salvador-dali.org; Pla�a de Gala
Apr-Sep, 10am-2pm Tue-Sat Oct-Mar, 10am-2pm Sun & %
times to the present. Dioramas, explanatory
Polic�a Nacional ( 091; Carrer de Sant Pau 2)
%
i Salvador Dal� 5; adult/student Ź 11/8; 9am-8pm Jul-Sep,
holidays), although modelled on Muslim and boards, videos and all sorts of objects ranging h
Tourist office ( 972 22 65 75; www.ajuntament.gi
% 9.30am-6pm Mar-Jun & Oct, 10.30am-6pm Nov-Feb), which
Roman bathhouses, is actually a 12th-century from Neolithic tools to the whining musical
/turisme; Rambla de la Llibertat 1; 8am-8pm Mon-Fri,
h he completed in 1974. It is at once art gallery,
Christian affair in Romanesque style. It s the instruments used to accompany the sardana
8am-2pm & 4-8pm Sat, 9am-2pm Sun)
only public bathhouse discovered in medieval (traditional Catalan folk dance) help bring the final testament and mausoleum. It was, and
Christian Spain. Possibly in reaction to the town s story to life. Learn about the 18-month remains, the greatest act of self-promotion
Muslim obsession with water and cleanliness, siege of the town by Napoleon s troops, which of a man who had made a supreme art form
in Christian Europe washing came to be re- cost half Girona s population their lives. EATING of such activities. But make no mistake, Dal�
garded as ungodly (and water was feared as Carrer de la For�a lies at the heart of the K�nig ( 972 22 57 82; Carrer dels Calderers 16; meals Ź 8-15 was a unique artistic talent, as the contents
%
a source of germs and illness). Europe must Call (the Jewish quarter). Until 1492, when
daily) For a quick sandwich, entrepą (filled of his theatre-museum amply demonstrate.
h
have been the smelliest continent on earth! Jews had to convert to Catholicism or leave
roll) or simple hot dish,  King boasts a broad It is a multidimensional trip through one
The bathhouse contains an apodyterium Spain, Girona was home to Catalonia s sec-
outdoor terrace shaded by thick foliage. of the most fertile (or febrile) imaginations
ond most important Jewish community after
Restaurant Albereda ( 972 22 60 02; www.restaurant of the 20th century, full of surprises, tricks and
%
Barcelona. For an idea of medieval Jewish life,
illusions, and containing much of Dal� s life s
albereda.com, in Catalan & Spanish; Carrer de l Albereda 9;
FIVE IN ONE
visit the Museu d Hist�ria dels Jueus de Girona (Jewish
work. Admission includes entry to Dal� Joies
meal Ź 40; Tue-Sat, lunch Mon; ) The town s top
h n
History Museum, aka the Centre Bonastruc �a Porta; 972
%
The M5 ticket gives you half-price entry at four of restaurant serves Catalan cuisine with inter- (Dal� Jewels). The site is closed on Mondays
21 67 61; Carrer de la For�a 8; adult/child under 16yr/senior & from October to May. In August, it also opens
Girona s five museums. You pay full price at the first esting twists, such as the fidueada de ceps i
museum you visit, where you pick up the ticket. It is student Ź 2/free/1.50; 10am-8pm Mon-Sat Jun-Oct, 10am- calamarcets (a noodle dish with mushrooms at night (open 10pm to 1am) for a maximum
h
valid for six months. 6pm Mon-Sat Nov-May, 10am-3pm Sun & holidays). Named and tiny squids). There are also tasting menus of 500 people (booking essential; admission
after Jewish Girona s most illustrious figure, a for Ź 53. Ź 12). You are treated to a glass of cava.
248 249
lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
EXCURSIONS GIRONA
EXCURSIONS FIGUERES
0200 m
FIGUERES
0 0.1 miles
DALLYING WITH DAL� DELIRIUM
AC D
B
1
Dal� left his mark in several locations around Catalonia, particularly at his seaside residence in Port Lligat and inland
To Castell de
To La Jonquera (24km);
Sant Ferran (1km)
 castle , Castell de Pśbol.
France (29km)
Port Lligat, a 1.25km walk north of Cadaqu�s, is a tiny fishing settlement on a quiet, enchanting bay. God knows
1
what serious-minded fishermen thought of Dal� s seaside residence, antics and international jet-set pals. Dal� spent time
(more than half his adult life) here, in what was originally a fisherman s hut, from 1930 until 1982. Dal� had not come
Parc Bosc
Municipal
by choice. His father had forbidden him to return to the family house in Cadaqu�s after Dal� presented what was for his
father an intolerable painting in Paris. Across an image of the Sacred Heart, Dal� had written: Parfois je crache par plaisir
sur le portrait de ma mŁre (Sometimes I spit for fun on my mother s picture). His father never forgave him this insult
Pla�a de
to his deceased wife. By Dal� s standards the myriad white chimney pots and two egg-shaped towers on the house he
11 Gala i
9
S Dal�
10
 grew out of the original cabin are rather understated. It is now a museum, Casa-Museu Salvador Dal� ( 972 25 10
%
4
Main
15; www.salvador-dali.org; adult/student & senior Ź 10/8; 10.30am-9pm mid-Jun mid-Sep, 10.30am-6pm Tue-Sun
h
Entrance
2
5
mid-Sep mid-Jan & mid-Mar mid-Jun, closed mid-Jan mid-Mar, bookings essential).
2
The Castell de Pśbol ( 972 48 86 55; www.salvador-dali.org; Pla�a de Gala Dal�; adult/student & senior Ź 7/5;
%
Pla�a
3
del Sol
10am-8pm mid-Jun mid-Sep, 10am-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar mid-Jun & mid-Sep Oct, 10am-5pm Tue-Sat Nov-
h
13
8
Dec), in the village of La Pera, just south of the C-66 road between Girona and Palafrugell, forms the southernmost
point of the Dal� triangle. He bought the Gothic and Renaissance mansion  which includes a 14th-century church  in
La Rambla 7 1968 for his wife, Gala, who lived here without him (apparently lusting after local young lads to the end of her days)
Pla�a del
until her death at 88 in 1982. An inconsolable Dal� then moved in himself, but abandoned the place after a fire (which
President
Tarradellas
nearly burnt him to a crisp) in 1984 to live out his last years in Figueres. Dal� did the castle up in his own inimitable
12
Pla�a de
la Palmera
style, with lions heads staring from the tops of cupboards, statues of elephants with giraffes legs in the garden and a
stuffed giraffe staring at Gala s tomb in the crypt.
3
6
INFORMATION
INFORMATION
Pla�a
Hospital..............................................1 A1
Hospital..............................................1 A1
d'Ernest
Polic�a Nacional..................................2 B2
Polic�a Nacional..................................2 B2
Vila
Pla�a de
Tourist Office.....................................3 A2
Tourist Office.....................................3 A2
the other end of the room, the work appears, collection of art, mainly by Catalan artists.
Catalunya
Pla�a
SIGHTS (pp249 51)
SIGHTS (ppXXX XXX) with the help of coin-operated viewfinders, to Admission is free with a Teatre-Museu Dal�
del Gra
Dal� Joies............................................4 B2
Dal� Joies............................................4 B2
be a portrait of Abraham Lincoln. One floor
ticket. The Museu del Joguet ( 972 50 45 85; www
%
Esgl�sia de Sant Pere........................... B2
Esgl�sia de Sant Pere........................... B2
5
5
Museu de la TŁcnica de l'Empordą.....6 D3
Museu de la TŁcnica de l'Empordą.....6 D3 up (level three) is the Sala de Mae West, a liv- .mjc.cat; Carrer de Sant Pere 1; admission Ź 5; 10am-6pm
h
Museu de l Empordą..........................7 C3
Museu de l Empordą..........................7 C3
ing room where the components, viewed from
Museu del Joguet...............................8 B2
Museu del Joguet...............................8 B2 Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat, 11am-6pm Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-6pm
Teatre-Museu Dal�..............................9 B2
Teatre-Museu Dal�..............................9 B2
the right spot, make up a portrait of Ms West:
Tue-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat, 11am-2pm Sun & holidays Oct-May)
Tickets for Dal� Joies.........................10 B2
Tickets for Dal� Joies.........................10 B2
a sofa for her luscious, wet lips, twin fireplaces
Torre Galatea...................................11 B2
Torre Galatea...................................11 B2
has more than 3500 Catalonia- and Valencia-
4
for nostrils, impressionist paintings of Paris
made toys from the pre-Barbie 19th and early
SLEEPING (p252)
SLEEPING (ppXXX XXX)
Bus
To Roses (18km); for those come-to-bed eyes.
Hotel Rambla....................................12 B3
Hotel Rambla....................................12 B3
Station 20th centuries. One wonders to what chil-
Cadaqu�s (31km)
Pla�a de
A separate section displays Dal� Joies (Dal�
To L'Escala (22km); l'Estació dren the Groucho Marx doll would have ap-
EATING (p252)
EATING (ppXXX XXX)
Girona (38km);
Train
Jewels), the magnificent Owen Cheatham col-
Mesón Castell...................................13 B2
Mesón Castell...................................13 B2
Barcelona (129km) pealed.
Station
lection of 37 pieces of jewellery in gold and
The Museu de la TŁcnica de l Empordą ( 972 50
%
precious stones designed by Dal�. Dal� did
88 20; www.mte.cat; Carrer dels Fossos 12; adult/child under
The building aims to surprise from the with a fishing boat balanced precariously
the designs on paper (his first commission
10yr/senior & student Ź 3/free/2; 10am-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-
h
outset. The fuchsia wall along Pujada del Cas- above the tyres. Put a coin in the slot and
was in 1941) and the jewellery was made by
1pm & 4-7pm Sat, 11am-2pm Sun & holidays) is a treasure
tell is topped by a row of Dal� s trademark water washes all over the inside of the car. The
specialists in New York. Each piece, ranging
chest of old mechanical masterpieces, from
egg shapes and what appear to be female Sala de Peixateries (Fish Shop Room) off here
from the disconcerting Ull del Temps (Eye
typewriters and watches through to sewing
gymnasts ready to leap. Bizarre sculptures holds a collection of Dal� oils including his
of Time) through to the Cor Reial (Royal
machines, heaters and cash registers.
greet visitors outside the entrance on Pla�a Autoretrat tou amb tall de bacon fregit (Soft
Heart), is unique. They changed hands sev-
The sprawling 18th-century Castell de Sant
de Gala i Salvador Dal�. One can only imagine Self-Portrait with Fried Bacon) and Retrat
eral times until the foundation that runs the
Ferran ( 972 50 60 94; www.lesfortalesescatalanes.info,
%
the parish priest at the adjacent centuries-old de Picasso (Portrait of Picasso). Beneath the
museum acquired them in 2001 for a cool
in Spanish, Catalan & French; admission Ź 3; 10.30am-8pm
h
Esgl�sia de Sant Pere looking with disapproval former stage of the theatre is the crypt, with
Ź 5.5 million.
Easter & Jul mid-Sep, 10.30am-3pm mid-Sep Jun), on a
(Franco was still in charge in those days) Dal� s surprisingly plain tomb.
On La Rambla, the town s main boulevard
low hill 1km northwest of the centre, was
upon this loopiness as it emerged from the The stage area (level two), topped by a
about 100m south of the dazzling display of
built to withstand the most vicious of sieges
theatre ruins. glass geodesic dome (restored in 1998), was
Dal�an dizziness, lie what are, by compari- but never got the chance to show its mettle.
Inside, the ground floor (level one) in- conceived as Dal� s Sistine Chapel. The large
son, two rather staid museums. The Museu
Built in 1750, it saw almost no action. Spain s
cludes a semicircular garden on the site of egg-head-breasts-rocks-trees backdrop was
de l Empordą ( 972 50 23 05; www.museuemporda.org; Republican government held its final meeting
%
the original theatre stalls. In its centre is a part of a ballet set, one of Dal� s ventures into
La Rambla 2; adult/senior & child/student Ź 2/free/1; 11am- of the civil war in the dungeons on 1 February
h
classic piece of weirdness, Taxi Plujós (Rainy the performing arts. If proof were needed
7pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun & holidays) is a worthy in- 1939. The Castell is still partly owned by the
Taxi), composed of an early Cadillac  said of Dal� s acute sense of the absurd, Gala
military, who don t at all mind divisions of
stitution that combines Greek, Roman and
to have belonged to Al Capone  and a pile Mirando el Mar Mediterr�neo (Gala Looking
tourists manoeuvring around inside.
medieval archaeological finds with a sizable
of tractor tyres, both surmounted by statues, at the Mediterranean Sea) would be it. From
250 251
lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
EXCURSIONS FIGUERES
EXCURSIONS FIGUERES
A
l C
Ronda del
astell de Sant
R
e
a
ctor Aroles
Jonquer
Fe
rran
a
C de Cadaqu�s
Carr
o
t
er d'Isabel II
Carrer de la
n
i
Carrer de
C
Łn
C
s
ar
r
er
s
de
C de la Barcelonet
l C
o
a
n
ig
ó
C de Nuria
Ller
M
e
Ca
C
d
rre
ar
ró
B
s
de
a
r
a
e
l Castell
rce
la
r d
d
lo
neta
n
e
de
l
o
M
C
d
R
e
st
e
C de Pep V
la M
re
ada
Fa
s
u
ra
lla
lla
entura
Puj
Tin
C d
C
de
l'E
mpo
e �lvar
C
rd�
C
Carrer de
a
Tapis
rre
r d
ez
e
Besalś
P
e
de
rala
Castro
a
d
a
Carrer de
C
a
on
rre
r
de
C d
e
Gir
Las
e
C
e les R
auca
C
de Sant Per
a
rrer
d
e J
o
a
n
r d
M
ode
a
rag
a
ll
Ampl
s
t
rre
C d
lo
e
e la
Mo
l
rer�
Ca
a
'O
t
Carrer
n
r d
fa
Carrer
C de la M
rre
ont
uriol
Vila
de Sant Jo
e
Ca
Ronda Fira
r d
u
sep
Carre
t Pa
Carrer
an
d
els
S
F
o
sso
e
s
r d
onjos
rre
Ca
m
Carrer de Castelló
al�ada dels M
C
Carrer de Colo
Avin
g
u
Carrer Nou
d
a
de
V
z
Carrer de M
il
e
allo
ń
ś
n
g
N
a
untaner
z
e
C
nd
ar
�
r
e
r
de
M
S
a
e
n
t
d
L
la
t
z
e
er
r
r
ar
igdia
C
la
r de
g
e
rre
a
n R
C
a
Carrer de M
Jo
From the range, on a clear day, you can see
as far as the Pyrenees, Barcelona s Tibidabo
TRANSPORT: FIGUERES TRANSPORT: MONTSERRAT
hill and even, if you re lucky, Mallorca.
Distance from Barcelona 129km Distance from Barcelona 46km
A rack-and-pinion railway or your own
Direction Northeast Direction Northwest
wheels can be used to ascend the mountain
Travel time 1� to 2ź hours Travel time One hour
as far as the monastery. From here, the main
Car Take the AP-7 motorway via Granollers and
Bus A daily bus (Ź 43) from Barcelona with Julią Tours (Map pp108 9; 93 317 64 54; Ronda de l Universitat 5,
%
road curves (past a snack bar, cafeteria, in-
Girona. From central Girona it should not take more
Barcelona) leaves for the monastery at 9.30am (returning at 3pm). The price includes travel, all entry prices, use of
formation office and the Espai Audiovisual)
than 30 minutes.
funiculars at Montserrat and a meal at the self-service restaurant.
round and up to the right, passing the blocks
Train At least 17 trains daily from Barcelona Sants
Car Take the C-16. Shortly after Terrassa, follow the exit signs to Montserrat, which will put you on the C-58. Follow
of the Cel.les Abat Marcel, to enter Pla�a de
station via Girona (Ź 8.55 to Ź 9.80).
it northwest to the C-55. Head 2km south on this road to the municipality of Monistrol de Montserrat, from where a
Santa Maria at the centre of the monastery
road snakes 7km up the mountain.
complex.
Train The R5 line trains operated by FGC ( 93 205 15 15) run from Pla�a d Espanya station in Barcelona to Monistrol
%
The Monestir de Montserrat ( 93 877 77 01; www
%
INFORMATION de Montserrat up to 18 times daily starting at 5.24am. They connect with the rack-and-pinion train, or cremallera
.abadiamontserrat.net; 9am-6pm) was founded in
h
( 902 31 20 20; www.cremallerademontserrat.com), which takes 17 minutes to make the upwards journey and
Hospital ( 972 67 50 89; Ronda del Rector Aroles s/n) %
%
1025 to commemorate a vision of the Virgin
costs Ź 4.10/6.50 one way/return. One way/return from Barcelona to Montserrat with the FGC train and cremallera costs
on the mountain. Wrecked by Napoleon s
Polic�a Nacional ( 091; Carrer de Pep Ventura 8)
%
Ź 8.70/15.70. For various all-in ticket options, check out the above website or www.fgc.net.
troops in 1811, then abandoned as a result
Tourist office ( 972 50 31 55; www.figueresciutat.com;
%
of anticlerical legislation in the 1830s, it was
Pla�a del Sol; 9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun
h
rebuilt from 1858. Today a community of
school, has a boys choir, the Montserrat Boys If you want to stay overnight, check the
Jul-Sep, 8am-3pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1.30pm
about 80 monks lives here. Pilgrims come
Choir, which sings in the basilica once a day, monastery website for the limited options.
& 3.30-6.30pm Sat Easter-Jun & Oct, 8am-3pm Mon-Fri
from far and wide to venerate La Moreneta
Sunday to Friday, except in July and Au- You ll also find a couple of self-service
Nov-Easter) Hours can be a trifle unpredictable.
(Black Madonna), a 12th-century Roman-
gust. See the latest performance times (which restaurants and snack bars.
esque wooden sculpture of Mary with the
can change) on the web page. It is a rare
infant Jesus that has been Catalonia s of-
(if brief) treat as the choir does not often
EATING
ficial patron since 1881. A bit like children
perform outside Montserrat. The choir has
COSTA BRAVA
Mesón Castell ( 972 51 01 04; Pujada del Castell 4; meals
% refusing to believe claims that Santa Claus
sung hymns since the 13th century. The 40
The rugged Costa Brava stretches from bland
Ź 35-40; Mon-Sat) A bustling, rustic eatery
h does not exist, Catalans chose to ignore the
to 50 escolanets, aged between 10 and 14, go
Blanes (about 60km northeast of Barcelona)
where you can sample tapas at the bar or
discovery in 2002 that their Madonna is not
to boarding school at Montserrat and must
to the French border. At its best it is mag-
head to the sit-down restaurant for robust
black at all, just deeply tanned by centuries
endure a two-year selection process to join
nificent. At its worst it fully lives up to its
local cooking (including lamb and suckling
of candle smoke.
the choir.
reputation as a beach-holiday inferno. Lloret
pig).
The two-part Museu de Montserrat ( 93 877
%
To see where the holy image of the Virgin
de Mar and parts of the Golf de Roses are the
77 77; Pla�a de Santa Maria; adult/student Ź 6.50/5.50;
was discovered, take the Funicular de Santa Cova
worst offenders, where you can almost hear
10am-6pm) has a collection ranging from
h
(one way/return Ź 1.70/2.70; every 20min 10am-5.35pm
h
SLEEPING all that northern European flesh sizzling on
ancient artefacts, including an Egyptian
Apr-Oct, 11am-4.25pm Nov-Mar) down from the main
the beaches in between lager top-ups. Don t
Hotel Rambla ( 972 67 60 20; www.hotelrambla.net;
%
mummy (the collection of Egyptian artefacts
area. You can explore the mountain above
run away! The bulk of the coast is one of
La Rambla 33; s/d Ź 56/70; ) Right in the
pai
counts more than 1000 items), to occasional
the monastery by a network of paths lead-
nature s grand spectacles, with rugged cliffs
heart of the city with comfortable, modern
works by Caravaggio, Monet, Degas, Picasso
ing to some of the peaks and to 13 empty
plunging into crystalline water, interrupted at
rooms behind a 19th-century fa�ade. Larger
and others (including an ample parade of
and rather dilapidated little chapels. The
improbable points by ribbons of golden sand,
doubles cost a little more (Ź 80).
Catalan painters). The Espai Audiovisual (adult/
Funicular de Sant Joan (one way/return Ź 4.15/6.60;
tiny hidden coves and shady pine stands.
senior & student Ź 2/1.50, with Museu de Montserrat free;
every 20min 10am-5.40pm Apr-Oct, 10am-7pm mid-
h
Some towns have managed to retain great
9am-6pm) is a walk-through multimedia
h
Jul Aug, 11am-4.30pm Nov-Mar) will carry you from
charm, and one of the most ancient sites of
MONTSERRAT
space that illustrates the monks daily life.
the monastery 250m up the mountain in
settlement in Spain, Empśries, is here.
Shimmering bizarrely in the distance as you
From Pla�a de Santa Maria you enter the
seven minutes. Children pay about half price
Driving is the easiest way to explore the
drive the C-16 toll road between Terrassa and
courtyard of the 16th-century basilica (admis-
on the funiculars. If you prefer to walk, the
coast. What follows is a taster. To reach all
Manresa is the emblematic mountain range of
sion incl La Moreneta Ź 5; 9am-8.15pm Jul-Sep, earlier
h road leading past the funicular s bottom sta-
these spots you need to reckon on at least
Catalonia, Montserrat (Serrated Mountain).
closing rest of yr). The fa�ade, with its carvings
tion winds 3km up the mountain and around
one overnight stay. In July and August find-
So dear is it to Catalan hearts that it has long
of Christ and the 12 Apostles, dates from
to the top station.
ing lodgings without a reservation can be
been a popular first name for girls (generally
1901, despite its 16th-century Plateresque
From the Sant Joan top station, it s a 20-
problematic.
Montse for short). Lying 50km northwest of
style. For La Moreneta, follow the signs to the
minute stroll (signposted) to the Sant Joan
Leaving the strobe-light silliness of Lloret
Barcelona, the serried ranks of wind- and
Cambril de la Mare de D�u (La Moreneta; 8-10.30am &
h chapel. Enjoy the views as you look west from
de Mar behind, the road slices back inland
rain-whipped rock pillars (reaching a height of
12.15-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 8-10.30am, 12.15-6.30pm & 7.30- the trail. More exciting is the hour s walk
into the coastal hills before setting you down
1236m) were formed from a conglomeration
8.15pm Sun & holidays), to the right of the basilica s northwest along a path marked with occa- in Tossa de Mar. A small white town backing onto
of limestone, pebbles and sand that once lay
main entrance. sional blobs of yellow paint to Montserrat s a curved bay that ends in a headland protected
beneath the sea. With the historic Benedictine
The Escolania (www.escolania.net; admission free; highest peak, Sant Jeroni (1236m), from which by medieval walls and towers, Tossa is an
monastery, one of Catalonia s most important
there s an awesome sheer drop on the north- enticing location. Artist Marc Chagall called
performances 1pm & 6.45pm Mon-Fri, 11am & 6.45pm
shrines, perched at 725m on the mountain h
ern side. it his Blue Paradise. The place has sprawled
range s flank, it makes a great outing. Sun), reckoned to be Europe s oldest music
252 253
lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
EXCURSIONS MONTSERRAT
EXCURSIONS COSTA BRAVA
since Chagall stopped by in the 1930s, but Jun-Sep, 10am-6pm Oct-May). Founded around 600
Tossa has retained some of the integrity of a BC, it was probably the first, and certainly
COOKING UP A THREE-STAR STORM
beachside village. one of the most important, Greek colonies
Once a simple bar and grill clutching on to a rocky perch high above the bare Mediterranean beach of Cala Montjoi
The walls and towers on the headland, Mont in Iberia. It came to be called Emporion (lit-
and accessible only by dirt track from Roses, 6km to the west, El Bulli ( 972 15 04 57; www.elbulli.com; Cala
%
Guard�, at the southern end of the main beach, erally  market ). In 218 BC, Roman legions
Montjoi; meals Ź 200+; Apr-Sep; ) is now one of the world s most sought-after dining experiences (usually
h n
were built in the 12th to 14th centuries. The landed here to cut off Hannibal s supply lines
fully booked a year in advance), thanks to star chef Ferran Adrią (see p177). While easily Catalonia s internationally
area they girdle is known as the Vila Vella (Old during the Second Punic War. By the early
best-known dining experience, it has two stablemates as three-star Michelin eateries (in all Spain there are only six;
Town). Wandering around Mont Guard� you 1st century AD, the Roman and Greek set-
the other three are in the Basque Country). Can Fabes ( 93 867 28 51; www.canfabes.com; Carrer de Sant Joan 6,
%
come across ruins of a castle and a lighthouse tlements had merged. Emporiae, as the place
Sant Celoni; meals Ź 120-150; Tue-Sat) has long attracted a steady stream of gastronauts from Barcelona (53km
h
(with restaurant and bar attached); the sun- was then known, was abandoned in the late
to the south). Chef Santi Santamaria (the first Catalan chef ever to be awarded three Michelin stars) is a local boy who
sets here are superb. Vila Nova (New Town), a 3rd century after raids by Germanic tribes.
started up here in 1981. Dishes based on local products (seafood landed at Blanes, for example) are at the core of his
tangle of 18th-century lanes, stretches away A small museum separates the Greek town
cooking, which, while loaded with creative touches, makes no attempt to reach Adrią s kooky levels. Some people
from the old nucleus and makes for a pleasant from the larger Roman town on the upper part
like the food so much they stay in Santamaria s design digs on the same property. Barely 25km east, on the coast at
stroll. The main beach, Platja Gran, tends to be of the site. While the Museu d Arqueologia
Sant Pol de Mar, is another foodie s fave. Sant Pau ( 93 760 06 62; Carrer Nou 10; meals Ź 120-150; lunch
% h
busy. Further north along the same bay are de Catalunya (p146) in Barcelona has a bigger
& dinner Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat, dinner only Thu, closed most of May & Nov) is a beautifully presented mansion whose
some quieter, smaller beaches. and better Empśries collection, highlights of
garden overlooks the Mediterranean. Observe the cooks at work on local seafood and farm products downstairs before
The 21km drive from Tossa to Sant Feliu de the larger Roman town include the mosaic
heading upstairs to dine. Carme Ruscalleda is the driving force. Some 20 other restaurants scattered around Catalonia
Gu�xols is a treat, the most breathtaking driv- floors of a 1st century BC house, the forum
have a Michelin star (and just one has two), in addition to 14 in Barcelona, so the French clearly find the region fruitful
ing stretch of the coast. From here the coast and walls. Outside the walls are the remains
territory for the discerning palate!
road continues through the not unpleasant of an oval amphitheatre.
Spanish resort of Platja d Aro, on through A string of brown-sand beaches stretches
the more offensive Palamós and inland to north from the ruins and leads to the cheerful
INFORMATION SLEEPING
Palafrugell, a local transport hub that funnels 15th-century hamlet of Sant Mart� d Empśries. On
Hotel Diana ( 972 34 18 86; www.diana-hotel.com; Pla�a
you into another prime stretch of the Costa Pla�a Major four restaurant-bars compete for Cadaqu�s tourist office ( 972 25 83 15; www
%
%
Brava. Again, uncompromising rock walls your business. d Espanya 6, Tossa de Mar; s/d Ź 66/102, d with sea view Ź 126;
.cadaques.org, in Catalan; Carrer del Cotxe 2; 9am-9pm
h
are interspersed with coves and hideaways. Next, head for the windswept Parc Natural ) A small-scale, older hotel fronting Platja
a
Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Easter-Sep, 9.30am-1pm &
Among the places you can fan out to are Calella del Cap de Creus. As well as boasting Spain s Gran with 21 simple but light rooms, a Gaud�-
3-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Oct-Easter) Opening hours
de Palafrugell, Llafranc, Tamariu, Aigua Blava and For- most easterly point (Cap de Creus), the area built fireplace in the lounge, Modernista d�cor
are unpredictable.
nells de Mar. A coastal walking path links the bursts with hiking possibilities, coves and the and stained glass in the central covered court-
Tossa tourist office ( 972 34 01 08; www.infotossa
%
first three. eternally attractive seaside town of Cadaqu�s, yard. Prices shoot higher still in August.
.com; Avinguda del Pelegr� 25; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat,
h
Jagged cliffs and pine stands give way to a strange mix of whitewashed fishing village
Hotel La ResidŁncia ( 972 25 83 12; www.laresidencia
%
10am-2pm & 5-8pm Sun & holidays Jun-Sep, 10am-2pm
a long stretch of beach beyond Sa Punta to and minor hedonists hang-out. The area
.net; Avinguda de la Caritat Serinyana 1, Cadaqu�s; s/d Ź 70/95;
& 4-8pm Mon-Sat Apr, May & Oct, 10am-2pm & 4-7pm
L Estartit, the diving centre of the coast fronted was the stomping ground of Dal� and a host
) Right in the heart of the town, with a
pa
Mon-Sat Nov-Mar)
by the marine reserve of the Illes Medes. From of other jet-set figures through the 1960s
dozen rooms ranging from simple doubles to
here roads redirect you inland to L Escala, a and 1970s. Today it is ideal for strolling,
extravagantly decorated suites.
low-key resort town on the southern tip of lazing around on nearby beaches and, in the
EATING
the Golf de Roses bay, and the nearby ruins evening, eating and drinking. It can get quite
Casa Nun ( 972 25 88 56; Pla�a del Port Ditxos 6,
%
of Empśries ( 972 77 02 08; http://ftp.mac.es/empuries; lively on weekends. Nearby is Port Lligat (see
%
SITGES
Cadaqu�s; meals Ź 30; lunch & dinner Fri-Mon, dinner
Dallying with Dal� Delirium, p251). h
adult/senior & child/student Ź 3/free/2.50; 10am-8pm
h
Jet-setters, honeymooners and international
only Thu) Head for the cute upstairs dining area
gay partygoers descend on this once-quiet
(snag a window seat) or take one of the few
fishing village from spring to autumn. Just
tables outside overlooking the port. Catch of
32km (a half-hour by train) southwest of
TRANSPORT: COSTA BRAVA
the day is always a good bet.
Barcelona, Sitges boasts a long sandy beach,
Distance from Barcelona Tossa de Mar 77km; Palafrugell 125km; Empśries 153km; Cadaqu�s 164km (or 199km
Casamar ( 972 30 01 04; Carrer de Nero 3, Llafranc;
%
groovy boutiques for fashionistas, a handful
via Empśries)
meals Ź 30; Wed-Mon mid-Mar mid-Jan) All sorts
h
of interesting sights and nightlife that thumps
Direction Northeast
of marvels pour out of the hotel s restau-
from dusk  til dawn. In winter, Sitges can be
Travel time 1� to 2ź hours rant kitchen, from peach ravioli to succulent
dreary, but it wakes up with a vengeance for
lamb ribs.
Car Take the AP-7 motorway from Barcelona and peel off at exit 9 for Tossa de Mar, exit 6 for Palafrugell and around,
Carnaval (see p17) in February, when the gay
exit 5 for L Escala and Empśries and exit 4 for Cadaqu�s (via Roses). You can also follow the coast for parts of the trip. La Cuina de Can Simon ( 972 34 12 69; Carrer del
%
crowd puts on an outrageous show.
From Barcelona take the C-32 to Blanes and then (often congested) single-carriage roads to Tossa de Mar via Lloret de Portal 24, Tossa de Mar; meals Ź 45-50; Wed-Sat, lunch
h
Sitges has been fashionable in one way or
Mar. The single-carriageway A-2 coast road is slower still. From Tossa it is possible to follow the coast (the initial 21km Sun; ) Tossa s culinary (Michelin) star is
n
another since the 1890s, when it became an
stretch to Sant Feliu de Gu�xols is breathtaking) to Palafrugell and beyond. housed in the former stone dwelling of a
avant-garde art-world hang-out. It has been
fisherman. This place serves up an imagina-
Bus The company SARFA ( 902 302025; www.sarfa.com) runs buses from Barcelona s Estació del Nord to Tossa de
% one of Spain s most unconventional, any-
tive array of creative local and Mediterranean
Mar (Ź 9.85, 1� hours, seven to 18 times daily) and to Palafrugell (Ź 15.05, two hours, seven to 13 times daily). Local
thing-goes resorts since the 1960s.
cuisine, such as black rice with artichokes
buses connect to Calella, Llafranc and Tamariu. Up to four buses a day run from Barcelona to L Escala and Empśries via
The main landmark is the Esgl�sia de Sant
and shrimp dumplings.
Palafrugell (Ź 17.65, 1� hours). For Cadaqu�s, buses to/from Barcelona (Ź 19.90, 2ź hours) operate from two to five
Bartomeu i Santa Tecla parish church, atop a rocky
times daily.
254 255
lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
EXCURSIONS COSTA BRAVA
EXCURSIONS SITGES
0200 m
Tourist office ( 93 811 06 11; Passeig de la Ribera
%
SITGES 0 0.1 miles
PENED�S WINE
s/n; 10am-2pm & 4-8pm daily mid-Jun mid-Sep,
h
AC D
B
10am-2pm & 4-7pm Fri & Sat, 10am-2pm Sun-Thu mid-
To Vilafranca del
PenedŁs (19km);
Sep mid-Jun) A branch office. COUNTRY
Barcelona via
INFORMATION
INFORMATION
A-16 (32km);
Pla�a del
Carrer del Hospital
Rivers of still white and bubbly, among
Polic�a Local.............................1 D2
Polic�a Local.............................1 D2 Tarragona via
Hospital
C-32 (72km)
Tourist Office........................... B1
Tourist Office........................... B1
2
2
Spain s best wines, spring forth from the area
1 Train Station
Tourist Office .........................3 C3
Tourist Office .........................3 C3
Pla�a de
around the towns of Sant Sadurn� d Anoia
Buses to
2 EATING
E Maristany
Barcelona
SIGHTS (p255)
SIGHTS (ppXXX XXX)
and Vilafranca del PenedŁs. Sant Sadurn� d Anoia,
Airport
Al Fresco ( 93 894 06 00; Carrer de Pau Barrabeig 4; meals
%
Esgl�sia de Sant Bartomeu i
Esgl�sia de Sant Bartomeu i
Santa Tecla..........................4 D3
Santa Tecla..........................4 D3 a half-hour train ride west of Barcelona, is
Ź 25-30; dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun mid-Jan mid-Dec;
h
Museu Cau Ferrat....................5 D3
Museu Cau Ferrat....................5 D3
the capital of cava. Vilafranca del PenedŁs, 12km
Museu Maricel del Mar............6 D3
Museu Maricel del Mar............6 D3 ) Hidden along a narrow stairway that
n
8
Museu Romąntic......................7 C2
Museu Romąntic......................7 C2 further down the track, is the heart of the
masquerades as a street, it serves light curries
PenedŁs DO region (denominación de origen,
SLEEPING (p257)
SLEEPING (ppXXX XXX)
and other surprises. There s also a tasting
Romąntic Hotel........................8 C1
Romąntic Hotel........................8 C1
see p194), which produces light, still whites.
menu (Ź 29) on Wednesday nights.
7
Some good reds and ros�s also gurgle forth
EATING (p257)
EATING (ppXXX XXX)
Costa Dorada ( 93 894 35 43; Carrer del Port Alegre 27;
%
Al Fresco..................................9 C2
Al Fresco..................................9 C2 Pla�a del
2 here.
10
Cap de Vila
Costa Dorada........................10 D2 h
Costa Dorada........................10 D2 meals Ź 30; Fri-Tue, lunch Wed Jan-Nov) Old-world
A hundred or so wineries around Sant
La Nansa................................11 C2
La Nansa................................11 C2
service in a 1970s atmosphere, perfect for
Pla�a
9
Sadurn� produce 140 million bottles of cava
d'Espanya
seafood, paella and fideu� (which is similar
a year  something like 85% of the national
Platja de
to paella but uses vermicelli noodles as the
1
Pla�a de la St Sebastią
11 output. Cava is made by the same method
Industria
base).
Pla�a 5
3 d'Ajuntament
6
La Nansa ( 93 894 19 27; Carrer de la Carreta 24; meals
%
Pla�a del
Ź 35; Thu-Mon, closed Jan) Cast just back from
4
Baluard h
TRANSPORT: PENED�S WINE
the town s waterfront and up a little lane
Platja de
la Frigata
in a fine old house is this seafood special- COUNTRY
Platja de
3
la Ribera
ist. They do a great line in paella and other
Distance from Barcelona Vilafranca del PenedŁs
MEDITERRANEAN
rice dishes.
48km
SEA
Direction West
Platja de la
Bassa Rodona
Travel time 30 to 45 minutes
SLEEPING
Car Head west along Avinguda Diagonal and follow
Romąntic Hotel ( 93 894 83 75; www.hotelromantic
%
and lofty arches, is enchanting. Next door is the signs for the AP-7 motorway, then take either the
.com, in Spanish & Catalan; Carrer de Sant Isidre 33; s/d Ź 80/110,
the Museu Maricel del Mar ( 93 894 03 64; Carrer de Sant Sadurn� d Anoia or Vilafranca del PenedŁs exits.
%
TRANSPORT: SITGES
s/d with shared bathroom Ź 68/95) Three adjoining
Fonollar s/n), with art and handicrafts from the Train Up to three rodalies trains an hour run from
Distance from Barcelona 32km
19th-century villas are sensuously restored
Middle Ages to the 20th century. Pla�a de Catalunya and Estació Sants in Barcelona
Direction Southwest
in period style, and have a leafy dining court- to Sant Sadurn� (Ź 2.60, 45 minutes from Pla�a de
The Museu Romąntic ( 93 894 29 69; Carrer de Sant
%
Travel time 30 minutes
yard. If there are no rooms available, ask
Gaudenci 1), housed in a late-18th-century man- Catalunya) and Vilafranca (Ź 3.20, 55 minutes from
Car The best road from Barcelona is the C-32 toll road.
about their other boutique hotel, Hotel La
sion, re-creates with its furnishings and dio- Pla�a de Catalunya).
More scenic is the C-31, which hooks up with the C-32
Renaixen�a.
ramas the lifestyle of a 19th-century Catalan
after Castelldefels, but it is often busy and slow.
landowning family. It also has a collection of
Train Four rodalies trains an hour, from about 6am
several hundred antique dolls  and some of
05 km
to 10pm, run from Barcelona s Passeig de Grącia and PENED�S WINE COUNTRY
03 miles
them are mighty ugly! Many of Sitges grand
Sant Pere
Estació Sants to Sitges (Ź 2.60, 38 to 46 minutes from
C-15
de Riudebitlles
old residences were built in the 19th century A BCD
Passeig de Grącia depending on intermediate stops). To Barcelona
Torrelavit
by locals who had made good (often in dubi-
(40km)
Castellv�
5
ous businesses such as cotton-raising using
Gelida de Rosanes
El Pla del Sant Sadurn�
AP-7
slave labour) in South America and were com- 6
elevation that separates the 2km-long main C-243
C-243
1 PenedŁs d'Anoia
monly dubbed Americanos or Indianos. 3
beach to the southwest from the smaller, qui-
Guardiola
de Font-rub�
At night, head down to the  Calle del Pec- 1
eter Platja de Sant Sebastią to the northeast.
Puigdąlber
9
ado (Sin St), actually Carrer de MarquŁs de
Three museums (adult/child/student Ź 3.50/free/1.50; Sant Mart� A L T Ordal
Sarroca P E N E D � S
C-15
Montroig, and its extension, Carrer del 1er
10am-1.30pm & 3-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat, 10am-
h
WINERIES (p258)
de Maig for wall-to-wall bars that will kick 4
3pm Sun Oct-Jun, 10am-2pm & 5-9pm Tue-Sun Jul-Sep),
2 La Granada
Cava Mart�n Soler................... B1
1
BP-2121
Avinyonet
your Sitges nocturnal life off with decibels. Caves Romagosa Torn�..........2 B2
which offer a combined ticket (adult/child/
Pacs del del PenedŁs
Codorn�u.............................(see 3)
Aiguaviva PenedŁs
student Ź 6.40/free/3.50), serve as a timid A-7
Freixenet................................3 C1
AP-7
Giró Ribot............................... C2
4
counterweight to the hedonism. The Museu 7
Jean León..............................5 C1
INFORMATION
Vilafranca
2
Cau Ferrat ( 93 894 03 64; Carrer de Fonollar s/n) was
% Nadal.....................................6 C1
del PenedŁs
Policia Local ( 704 101092; Pla�a d Ajuntament) Torres....................................7 B2
%
built in the 1890s as a house-cum-studio by
La Mśnia
artist Santiago Rusińol. The house is full of B A I X
Tourist office ( 93 810 93 40; www.sitgestur.com; GARRAF SLEEPING (p259)
%
P E N E D � S
Hostal del Castell Gimenelles..8 A2
his own art and that of his contemporaries.
Carrer de S�nia Morera 1; 9am-8pm mid-Jun mid-Sep,
h
Sant Jaume To Tarragona To Sitges To Sitges
8 Hotel Sol i Vi..........................9 C1
dels Domenys (46km) (12km) (10km)
The interior, with its exquisitely tiled walls 9am-2pm & 4-6.30pm Mon-Fri Oct-Jun)
256 257
lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
EXCURSIONS SITGES
EXCURSIONS PENED�S WINE COUNTRY
Avinguda
de les Flors
Passei
Vil
afranca
nell
o
g de
arb
C
r
rtu
d'A
a
ud
g
in
Av
Carr
C
ar
er de
r
e
r d
Carrer de
C de
Rafael Llo
Carrer de St Isidre
e
Vilanova
l'Illa
St Francesc
Carrer de Sant Josep
Passeig de
d
St
s
e
u
C
Bartome
es
uba
part
e J
d
C de St
C
Bonav
u
Carrer d'Ąng
C de Sant Gaudenci
C de Espatter
el Vida
s
de
lla
re
a
les P
C del M
re
er de
l
de M
arr
u
leg
Carrer de
C
C
Carre
Carrer de St
a
ar
r
ort A
P
ig
e
Major
el P
re
d
ontroig
d
C
arq
be
e
r
r d
a
e
r
r
r
r
u�s
C
a
a
e B
B
a
St Pau
C
n
r
rer
Carrer d
on
r
la Carreta
Pere
d
olla
aire
'E
Aving
Fon
sp
C
Tacó
e
1er d
d
Carrer d'e
a
M
C
ny
ai
la
uda de Sofi
a
g
Carrer Nou
Rib
Passeig de
era
e
a
r�tim
a
seig M
as
P
INFORMATION SLEEPING
IN SEARCH OF THE PERFECT TIPPLE
Hostal del Castell Gimenelles ( 977 67 81 93; www
%
Tourist office ( 93 818 12 54; www.turismevilafranca
%
To do a tour of the PenedŁs area you will need your own transport. For suggestions on wine routes, also look up .gimenelles.com; Sant Jaume dels Domeny; r Ź 77-130; )
p
.com; Carrer de la Fruita 13, Vilafranca; 9am-1pm &
h
Seven rooms with antique furniture arranged
www.enoturismealtpenedes.net. Do not expect to wander into any old winery. Many only open their doors to the
4-7pm Tue-Sat, 4-7pm Sun) A good source of information
in a typical PenedŁs farmhouse and sur-
public at limited times. The more enthusiastic ones will show you how wines and/or cava (the Catalan version of
on wineries.
rounded by vineyards, just west of the town
champagne) are made and finish off with a glass or two. Tours generally last about 1� hours and may only be in Cata-
of Sant Jaume dels Domenys.
lan and/or Spanish. Groups must book. You can search www.dopenedes.es for wineries and this list should get you
Hotel Sol i Vi ( 93 899 32 04; www.solivi.com; s/d
started: EATING %
Ź 61/81; ) Occupying a renovated masia
Cal Ton ( 93 890 37 41; Carrer Casal 8, Vilafranca; meals Ź 35-40; ps
%
Cava Mart�n Soler (Map p257; 93 898 82 20; www.cavamartinsoler.com; Puigdąlber; 9am-1pm & 3-7pm
% h
(Catalan country farmhouse) in Subirats,
Wed-Sat, lunch only Sun & Tue) Hidden away down a
h
Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat, Sun & holidays) Located 8km north of Vilafranca in a 17th-century farmhouse surrounded by
4km south of Sant Sadurn� on the C-243a
narrow side street, Cal Ton has a crisp, modern
vineyards, this winery only makes cava.
road to Vilafranca, Hotel Sol i Vi has spacious
d�cor and inventive Mediterranean chow.
Caves Romagosa Torn� (Map p257; 93 899 13 53; www.romagosatorne.com; 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat)
% h rooms, a restaurant and country views.
Fonda Neus ( 93 891 03 65; Carrer de Marc Mir 14-
%
This winery at Finca La Serra is on the road to Sant Mart� Sarroca. Cava is, again, the star. Head on for a look at nearby
16, Sant Sadurn� d Anoia; meal Ź 25; Mon-Fri, lunch Sun)
h
Sant Mart� Sarroca.
This classic Catalan eatery has been given an
Codorn�u (Map p257; 93 891 33 42; www.codorniu.es; Avinguda de Jaume Codorn�u s/n, Sant Sadurn� d Anoia; overhaul but retains a rustic flavour. Meats TARRAGONA
%
9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat, Sun & holidays) The Codorn�u headquarters is in a Modernista building at prepared in cava predominate. It has a few A hustling port city, Tarragona was once
h
the entry to Sant Sadurn� d Anoia by road from Barcelona. One of the biggest names in cava, it made its first bottle basic rooms too (singles/doubles Ź 55/85). Catalonia s leading light. Roman and
in 1872.
0 500 m
Freixenet (Map p257; 93 891 70 00; www.freixenet.es/web/eng; Carrer de Joan Sala 2, Sant Sadurn� d Anoia; TARRAGONA 0 0.3 miles
%
1�hr tours 10am-1pm & 3-4.30pm Mon-Thu, 10am-1pm Fri-Sun) Easily the best-known cava company interna-
h
tionally, Freixenet owns myriad wine producers in and beyond Catalonia.
Giró Ribot (Map p257; 93 897 40 50; www.giroribot.es; Finca el Pont s/n, Santa Fe del PenedŁs; 9am-2pm &
% h
To Bus Station (700m);
Hospital Joan XXIII (1km);
3.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) The magnificent winemaker s farm buildings ooze
Barcelona (96km);
Valencia (260km)
centuries of tradition. These vintners use mostly local grape varieties to produce a limited range of fine cava and
Camp
4
Pla de
de
Palau 5
wines (including muscat). The times given are for the shop. To visit the cellars, call ahead. Pla�a
Mart
Imperial
11
Tąrraco
9 Pla de
Jean León (Map p257; 93 899 55 12; www.jeanleon.com; Carrer del Comer� 22, Torrelavit; tours per person
%
la Seu
12
Ź 6; 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-1pm Sun) Born in Santander as Ceferino Carrión in 1928, Jean León uses
h
7 u
cabernet sauvignon and other grape types imported from prestigious vineyards in France to create a unique name in 1 Pla�a del
2
F�rum
wines. Visits must be booked in advance.
Pla�a
de la Pla�a
Nadal (Map p257; 93 898 80 11; www.nadal.com; El Pla del PenedŁs; tour per person Ź 3; tours 11.30am, 14
% h
Font 10 del Rei
3.30pm & 5.30pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am Sat, 10.30am & noon Sun & holidays) Nadal is just outside the hamlet of El Pla
8
del PenedŁs. The centrepiece is a fine masia (Catalan country farmhouse) where you can join organised visits.
To Platja
Mercat Arrabassada (1km);
To Port Aventura (12km); Platja Llarga (3km);
Torres (Map p257; 93 817 74 87; www.torres.es; tours per person Ź 5; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat,
% h Pla�a
Valencia (234km) Barcelona (90km)
15
de
9am-1pm Sun & holidays) About 3km northwest of Vilafranca on the BP-2121 near Pacs del PenedŁs, this is the Corsini
area s premier winery. The Torres family tradition dates from the 17th century, but the family company, in its present
Pla�a Pla�a
d'Arce
Ponent
form, was founded in 1870. Torres produces an array of reds and whites of all qualities, using many grape varieties,
Ochotorena
3
Platja
including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and more locally specific ones such 6
del
Miracle
13
as Parellada, Garnacha and Tempranillo.
as French champagne (of course, the French The mainly Gothic Basilica de Santa Maria
Pla�a
harrumph at such observations) and is gain- stands at the heart of the old town. Contruc-
Pla�a
dels Museu Casa Castellarnau.........7 C2
de la
Infants
ing ground in international markets. If you tion began in 1285, and since then, it has been
Museu Nacional Arqueol�gic de
Carros
Tarragona............................8 D2
happen to be in town during October, you much restored. It is possible to arrange visits
Passeig Arqueol�gic.................9 C1
Train
may catch the Mostra de Caves i Gastrono- of the bell tower in summer at around sunset. Pretori i Circ Romans.............10 C2
Station
mia, a cava- and food-tasting festi. Ask at the tourist office.
Pla�a
INFORMATION EATING (pp61 2)
dels
The epicentre of the PenedŁs wine- The basilica faces the Vinseum ( 93 890 05 82; Guąrdia Urbana.......................1 A2 AQ........................................11 D1
%
Carros
Tourist Office..........................2 C2 Quim Quima..........................12 D1
producing district is the large yet somewhat Pla�a de Jaume I, Vilafranca; adult/child under 12yr/child 12-17yr
SIGHTS (pp259 61) SLEEPING (p262)
straggly Vilafranca del PenedŁs. Spreading Ź 5/free/3; 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun &
h
Amfiteatre Romą.....................3 C3 Hotel Lauria...........................13 C3
itself around the pleasant old town centre is holidays) across Pla�a de Jaume I. Housed in a
Catedral...................................4 D1 Pensión Pla�a de la Font........14 C2
Entrance to Catedral, Cloister &
a less captivating and sprawling new town Gothic building, a combination of museums M E D I T E R R A N E A N
Museu Diocesą.....................5 C1 TRANSPORT (p261)
S E A
that seems as though it s been under repair here cover archaeology, art, geology and bird Port
F�rum Romą............................6 B3 Balcó Bus to Beaches.............15 D2
Esportiu
for years. life, along with an excellent section on wine.
258 259
lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
EXCURSIONS PENED�S WINE COUNTRY
EXCURSIONS TARRAGONA
s
�
u
u
l
q
u
r
t
a
n
edruna
o
M
A
M
v
v
a
A
e
n
i
d
t
d
e
s
i
r
C
C
a
a
t
i
a
r
a
Arqueol�gic
l
u
M
n
n
a
t
y
e
S
P
a
d
a
e
u
v
Soler
d
A
Passeig
I
C
Santa Joaquima de V
Pin
s
e
de
u
e
q
d
C
C
o
a
C
d
e
i
C
m
C
d
i
e
o
l
a
E
g
s
R
s
t
r
C
i
a
i
n
i
n
i
e
i
v
r
s
o
l
l
a
a
V
t
e
u
C
d
n
p
F
e
I
i
d
g
r
A
R
u
i
m
e
a
a
e
ą
I
c
a
r
t
e
l
r
a
'
s
m
m
I
C
a
r
i
n
N
r
o
i
t
b
d
a
a
R
o
s
e
P
v
l
e
l
anada
a
i
S
d
r
r
a
o
l
e
a
s
N
o
p
C
a
a
e
j
R
i
M
o
m
d
e
C
I
a
r
V
d
v
'
e
e
a
I
l
r
e
a
s
P
c
u
e
e
C
e
d
M
a
g
d
r
d
a
i
P
a
v
u
C
a
P
a
i
a
l
e
a
C
l
V
A
l
P
e
C
d
r
s
v
v
A
C
P
t
d
rat
l
l
a
e
j
a
a
l
C
s
a
C de la Portella Gr
i
s
c
n
N
d
s
ó
A
m
e
a
e
a
c
R
u
'
e
n
d
d
l
Rambla V
a
a
v
r
A
m
F
C
o
R
l
C de Gove
t
i
o
n
b
a
C
ella
a
S
a
t
�
r
s
t
u
rnado
g
o
C d'August
s
u
e
f
A
u
y
d
a
i
ó
V
g
n
r Gonz�lez
t
s
C
u
A
i
t
R
r
r
t
a
a
m
C
o
n
n
b
F
a
o
e
l
a
S
r
i
d
e
N
e
d
G
o
C de Reding
C
v
d
C
a
e
C
d
ó
C
d
i
śńez
e
s
l
n
C de Lleida
Ca
e
C
r
U
r
d
e
e
a
n
l
a
�
m
l
i
e
�ndez N
l
C
r
I
e
d
a
I
r
d
v
a
r
P
A
C
n
'
e
t
l
C
e
s
d
d
s
C
e
e
o
l
C de M
E
i
v
S
e
i
s
d
s
C
d
a
e
C
e
a
g
p
u
P
P
d
t
x
o
i
n
o
s
t
n
r
C
a
s
o
r
T
r
d
o

e
o
t
l
c
d
c
p
a
e
C de Roger de Llśria
r
s
a
a
t
t
a
a
d
v
o
V
a
c
r
o
x
n
i
C
a
P
a
d
e
a
e
s
l
d
C
B
a
a
d
r
e
t
o
eras
A
C
g
d
e
n
p
e
a
O
C
d
C
d
r
e
u
S
o
an
t
M
s
A
l
i
a
'
i
e
q
u
a
P
e
d
f
u
l
a
e
a
R
C
d
C
n
d
a
C
e
r
m
i
S
i
d
m
e
t
C
a
i
t
�
d
h
B
l
r
ar
r
l
c
a
e
l
o
ó
e
n
a
M
t
C
c
i
R
s
e
i
r
a
l
a
Pg
e
s
C
i
C
d
e
L
e
e
M
o
n
d
C
e
d
C del General Contr
e
M
d
a
r
C
C
C de Rebolledo
M
o
l
l
d
e
C
o
s
t
a
in the Capella de Santa Tecla on the southeast most explanatory material is in either Cata-
side. All sorts of tall tales abound about St lan or Spanish. Exhibits include part of the
DETOUR: THE MONASTERIES ROUTE
Thecla, who was apparently so impressed Roman city walls, frescoes, sculpture and pot-
The verdant oasis of La Conca de Barberą lies 30km west of Vilafranca del PenedŁs. Vineyards and woods succeed one
by St Paul s preaching on virginity that she tery. A highlight is the large, almost complete
another across rolling green hills (largely hidden from the ribbon of motorway that cuts through them), studded with
called off her impending wedding to follow Mosaic de Peixos de la Pineda (Fish Mosaic)
the occasional medieval village and a trio of grand Cistercian monasteries (a combined ticket to all three is available for
his advice (and then him). Paul s teaching which depicts local fish and sea creatures that
Ź 7). With your own vehicle, it is possible to extend a PenedŁs wineries excursion to some of these magnificent sights.
and her example were not always popular, many can only dream about in these times of
For information on the area around the monasteries, check out the Ruta del Cister (Cistercian Route) website (www
and she escaped several attempts to have overfishing. In the section on everyday arts
.larutadelcister.info).
her put to death, and wound up living as you can admire ancient fertility aids including
Following the AP-7 motorway southwest from Vilafranca, take the AP-2 fork about 18km west, then take exit 11
a hermit. an outsized stone penis, symbol of the god
north for the medieval Reial Monestir de Santes Creus (Royal Monastery of the Holy Crosses; 977 63 83 29; Pla�a
%
The so-called Museu d Hist�ria de Tarragona (MHT, Priapus.
de Jaume el Just s/n; adult/child Ź 3.60/2.40, Tue free; 10am-1.30pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar mid-Sep, 10am-
h
History Museum; www.museutgn.com; adult/concession each The town beach, Platja del Miracle, is clean
1.30pm & 3-5.30pm Tue-Sun mid-Sep mid-Jan, 10am-1.30pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Jan mid-Mar). Cistercian monks
attraction Ź 2.45/1.25, ticket to all MHT elements Ź 9.25/4.60; but crowded. Platja Arrabassada, 1km northeast
moved in here in 1168 and from then on the monastery developed as a major centre of learning and a launch pad for
9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun Easter-Sep, 9am-7pm across the headland, is better, and the aptly
h
the repopulation of the surrounding territory. Behind the Romanesque and Gothic fa�ade lies a glorious 14th-century
Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun & holidays Oct-Easter) is actu- named Platja Llarga (Long Beach), beginning
sandstone cloister, chapter house and royal apartments where the comtes-reis (count-kings; rulers of the joint state of
ally an ensemble of elements that includes 2km further out, stretches for about 3km.
Catalonia and Aragón) often stayed when they popped by during Holy Week. The church, begun in the 12th century, is
four separate Roman sites (which together Local buses 1 and 9 from the Balcó stop on
a lofty Gothic structure in the French tradition.
with Roman sites around the province con- Via Augusta go to Platja Arrabassada and
Back on the AP-2, travel another 22km to the medieval town of Montblanc, still surrounded by its defensive walls,
stitute a Unesco World Heritage site) and Platja Llarga.
and then L Espluga de Francol�, beyond which you continue 3km to the fortified Reial Monestir de Santa Maria de
a 14th-century noble mansion, the Museu About 11.5km southwest of Tarragona is
Poblet (Royal Monastery of Santa Maria in Poblet; 977 87 00 89; adult/student Ź 4.20/2.40; 10am-12.45pm &
% h
Casa Castellarnau. Port Aventura, a massive and popular Disney-
3-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-12.30pm & 3-5.30pm Sun & holidays mid-Mar mid-Oct, 10am-12.45pm & 3-5.30pm Mon-Sat,
The Castellarnau mansion ( 977 24 22 20; Carrer style theme park.
%
10am-12.30pm & 3-5.30pm Sun & holidays mid-Oct mid-Mar), the jewel in the crown of the Conca de Barberą and
dels Cavallers 14) is furnished in 19th-century
a Unesco World Heritage site. Founded by Cistercian monks from southern France in 1151, it became Catalonia s most
fashion and sheds light on how the other half
powerful monastery (it is said to be the largest Cistercian monastery in the world) and the burial place of many of its
INFORMATION
lived through the centuries. For the Roman
rulers. A community of Cistercian monks moved back in after the Spanish Civil War and did much to restore the monastery
stuff, start with the Pretori i Circ Romans ( 977 Guąrdia Urbana ( 977 24 03 45; Av Prat de la Riba 37)
% %
to its former glory after decades of ruin. High points include the mostly Gothic main cloister and the alabaster sculptural
23 01 71; Pla�a del Rei), which includes part of the
treasures of the Panteón de los Reyes (Kings Pantheon). The raised alabaster sarcophagi contain such greats as Jaume I Hospital Joan XXIII ( 977 25 22 85; Carrer del Dr
%
vaults of the Roman circus, where chariots
(the conqueror of Mallorca and Valencia) and Pere III. Mallafre Guasch 4)
would thunder along in dangerous, and often
Swinging away north from Montblanc (take the C-14 and then branch west along the LP-2335), country roads guide
Tourist office ( 977 25 07 95; www.tarragonaturisme.es;
%
deadly, races. The 300m-long circus stretched
you up through tough countryside into the low hills of the Serra del Tallat and towards yet another Cistercian complex,
Carrer Major 39; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun
h
from here to beyond Pla�a de la Font. Near
the Reial Monestir de Santa Maria de Vallbona de les Monges (Royal Monastery of St Mary of Vallbona of the Nuns;
Jul-Sep, 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun &
the beach is the well-preserved Amfiteatre Romą
973 33 02 66; adult/child Ź 2.50/2; 10.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-6.45pm Tue-Sat, noon-1.30pm & 4.30-6.45pm Sun
% h
( 977 24 25 79; Pla�a d Arce Ochotorena), where glad- holidays year-round)
%
& holidays Mar-Oct, 10.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-6pm Tue-Sat, noon-1.30pm & 4.30-6pm Sun & holidays Nov-Feb). It was
iators hacked away at each other, or wild
founded in the 12th century and is where around 20 nuns still live and pray. You will be taken on a guided tour, probably
animals, to the death. In its arena are the
in Catalan, in which it will become clear that it has even today not yet fully recovered from civil war damage.
EATING
remains of 6th- and 12th-century churches
Quim Quima ( 977 25 21 21; Carrer de les Coques 1bis; meals
%
built to commemorate the martyrdom of
Ź 35; lunch only Tue-Thu, lunch & dinner Fri & Sat) This
medieval vestiges testify to its two greatest nation continues inside in the grand clois- the Christian bishop Fructuosus and two h
epochs. The Romans established the city as ter, with Gothic vaulting and Romanesque deacons, believed to have been burnt alive
Tarraco in the 2nd century BC, and in 27 BC carved capitals. One of the latter depicts rats here in AD 259. There was certainly no lack
TRANSPORT TARRAGONA
Augustus elevated it to the capital of his new conducting what they imagine to be a cat s of excitement in Roman Tarraco! East of
Tarraconensis province (stretching from funeral, until the cat comes back to life! The Carrer de Lleida are remains of the F�rum
Distance from Barcelona 96km
Catalonia to Cantabria in the northwest and rooms off the cloister house the Museu Diocesą, Romą ( 977 24 25 01; Carrer del Cardenal Cervantes),
%
Direction Southwest
to Almer�a in the southeast). Abandoned with an extensive collection ranging from dominated by several imposing columns.
Travel time One to 1� hours
when the Muslims arrived in AD 714, it Roman hairpins to some lovely 12th- to The Passeig Arqueol�gic (www.museutgn.com) is a
Car Take the C-32 toll road along the coast via
was reborn as a Christian archbishopric 14th-century polychrome woodcarvings of peaceful walk around part of the perimeter of
Castelldefels or the AP-7 (if following Avinguda
in 1089. a breastfeeding Virgin. The interior of the the old town between two lines of city walls;
Diagonal west out of town).
The superb Catedral ( 97 723 86 85; Pla de la cathedral, which is over 100m long, is Ro- the inner ones are mainly Roman while the
%
Train At least 38 regional and long-distance trains
Seu; admission Ź 3.50; 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat mid- manesque at the northeast end and Gothic at outer ones were put up by the British in the
h
per day run to/from Barcelona s Passeig de Grącia
Mar May, 10am-7pm Mon-Sat Jun mid-Oct, 10am-5pm Mon- the southwest (a result of the prolonged con- War of the Spanish Succession.
via Sants. The cheapest fares (for Regional and Cat-
Sat mid-Oct mid-Nov, 10am-2pm Mon-Sat mid-Nov mid-Mar) struction period). The aisles are lined with The Museu Nacional Arqueol�gic de Tarragona ( 977
%
alunya Express trains) cost Ź 5.15 to Ź 5.80 and the
was built between 1171 and 1331 on the site 14th- to 19th-century chapels and hung with 23 62 09; www.mnat.es; Pla�a del Rei 5; adult/senior & child
journey takes one to 1� hours. Long-distance trains
of a Roman temple (probably dedicated to 16th- and 17th-century tapestries from Brus- under 18yr/student Ź 2.40/free/1.20; 9.30am-8.30pm Tue-
h
(such as Talgo, Arco and Euromed trains) are faster
Caesar Augustus), combining Romanesque sels. As a mark of reverence for St Thecla, Sat, 10am-2pm Sun & holidays Jun-Sep, 9.30am-1.30pm &
but more expensive  as much as Ź 17.70 in tourist
and Gothic features, as typified by the main Tarragona s patron saint, her arm is kept as 3.30-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun & holidays Oct-May) gives
(standard) class.
fa�ade on Pla de la Seu. The same combi- a permanent and rather gruesome souvenir further insight into Roman Tarraco, although
260 261
lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
EXCURSIONS TARRAGONA
EXCURSIONS TARRAGONA
� Lonely Planet Publications
rambling medieval mansion with a charming
SLEEPING
courtyard is a fine setting for anything from
Hotel Lauria ( 977 23 67 12; www.hlauria.es; Rambla Nova
%
fondue to crepes.
20; s/d Ź 46/64; ) Pleasant enough rooms
as
Aq ( 977 21 59 54; Carrer de les Coques 7; meals Ź 45-
%
with parquet floors, with a good location and
55; Tue-Sat) This is a bubbly designer haunt
h
a modest pool and sun deck.
with stark colour contrasts (black, lemon and
Pensió Pla�a de la Font ( 977 24 61 34; www.hotel
%
cream linen), slick lines and intriguing plays
pdelafont.com; Pla�a de la Font 26; s/d Ź 55/70; ) Rea-
on traditional cooking, such as bacallą amb a
crema de p�sols i cal�ots (cod with a cream of sonable pension with its own restaurant on
pea and spring onions). a characterful, busy old town square.
� Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above -  Do the right thing with our content.
262
lonelyplanet.com
EXCURSIONS TARRAGONA