� Lonely Planet Publications
220 EASTERN SENEGAL " " Tambacounda 221
Eastern Senegal
0 50 km
EASTERN SENEGAL
0 30 miles
To Mali (30km);
Bakel (80km)
0 20 km
0 20 km
0 12 miles
0 12 miles
Eastern Senegal
Badi
Badi
Grand
Grand
Mirador
Mirador
Patte d'Oie
Patte d'Oie
HH HHH
HHH
Gu� Koba
Gu� Koba
Koussanar Sadiola
It takes some courage to brave the seemingly endless stretch of potholed tarred road
To Kaolack
Camp du
Camp du
N1
Simenti
Simenti
(210km);
Lion
Lion
that connects Dakar to Tambacounda in the east, but the road that leads through flat Tambacounda
Dakar (400km)
Rope Bridge
Rope Bridge
H�tel de
H�tel de
savannah lands specked with shrubs and baobabs takes you to one of Senegal s best- Simenti
Simenti
N7
kept secrets  the hilly Bassari lands of the southeast. With its craggy mountain plateaus,
Gouloumbou Foręt de
H rr HHH
HH HHH
tucked-away waterfalls and lush forests, this region forms a striking contrast to the even Diambour
THE GAMBIA Gourbassi
Dar Salam
Basse Sa�nsoutou
Dialakoto Park Entrance,
plains that stretch throughout the rest of the country. And the region differs not only in Santa Su
Campement &
Foręt du
Biodiversity Centre
Kantora
N6
M A L I
its landscape, but also in its cultural make-up. Among the hills nestle tiny Bassari, B�dik
Di�noum Diala
V�lingara
M�dina
and Fula villages  remote hamlets that adhere strongly to traditional lifestyles and are See Enlargement
r
rr
Gounas
Simenti Niokolo-Koba
best visited with a knowledgeable guide. These communities are particularly known for Ni�m�n�ki
Damantan Parc National de
Foręt de la
HHHH
their stunning initiation ceremonies, and with a bit of luck and a good local introduction, Niokolo-Koba
Kayanga
To Kolda (70km); Mt Assirik Mako Bembou Saraya
you might be lucky enough to watch this colourful display of masked dances.
Ziguinchor (258km) (311m)
rr Tomboronkoto
Dalaba
Eastern Senegal is also home to Senegal s main wildlife reserve, the gigantic Parc Na-
Sal�mata
Ethiowar Bandafassi
Satadougou
Etiolo
Iwol
tional de Niokolo-Koba. It s one of the few parks in West Africa featuring lions, elephants Youkounkoun
Bassari Kedougou
Ibel
Koundara Country Indar
G U I N E A -
and plenty of other large mammals, though your chances of spotting them are rather Niagalankom�
Dindefelo
B I S S A U S�gou
HH
HHHH
& Dande
slim. You re almost more likely to come across a dozing lion on an early-morning drive
Gabu To Mali-ville G U I N E A
(20km)
through the park than on an organised tour. Bird-watchers are bound to find a trip here
rewarding  there are enough spectacular species to see that even reluctant birders will
TAMBACOUNDA of town, there s the busy market, a great
soon be wielding binoculars and scanning treetops for shimmering tail feathers.
The eastern town of Tambacounda, or place to rummage for Malian batiks, and the
 Tamba , as the locals affectionately call it, post office.
is all about dust, sand, sizzling temperatures The Syndicat d Initiative isn t particularly
and lines of traffic heading out in every di- active here, but it does have a local repre-
rection of the country. Tamba is a major sentative at H�tel Niji (%981 1250; nijihotel@sentoo
junction of routes leading eastwards to Mali, .sn; quartier abattoirs), near the pharmacy, who
HIGHLIGHTS
south to Guinea, west to Dakar and Gam- can help out with information about the re-
bia, and southwest to Ziguinchor. The hectic gion. Staff at the Headquarters of Parc National
Go lion-spotting in the Parc National de
heat of the permanent loading and unload- de Niokolo-Koba (%981 1097; h7.30am-5pm) can
Niokolo-Koba (p223), Senegal s largest
ing of taxis, coming and going of people, the help with inquiries about the park, and they
protected reserve
shouting and deal-making, joyful greeting also have 4WDs for hire.
Cool off under the deep drop of the
and tearful leaving is worth taking in for
Dindefelo (p227) waterfall
a day or so. Apart from that, there s little Sleeping
Go for solitary hikes around the forests of
to see here, unless you ve got a penchant Most places also run tours to the Parc Na-
the Bassari country (p227) and visit tiny, Parc National
for old, colonial railway stations, and once- tional de Niokolo-Koba (see p224).
de Niokolo-Koba
half-hidden B�dik villages
grand villas and their expansive gardens. Bloc Gadec (%531 8931; d, q per person CFA3000)
Not bad at all for a budget place, this friendly
Bassari Country
Orientation & Information little hostel in the centre of town near the
Dindefelo
The town has two main streets: Blvd Demba gare routiŁre (bus and bush-taxi station) has
Diop runs east west, parallel with the train spacious, clean rooms with shared toilets.
tracks, while Av L�opold Senghor runs H�tel Keur Khoudia (%/fax [phone]; Blvd
north south. The latter has shops, an In- Demba Diop; s/d CFA11,700/16,000; a) With spot-
ternet caf�, a well-stocked pharmacy and a less bungalows at decent prices and helpful
SGBS bank, which can exchange cash and management, this popular hotel is an excel-
POPULATION: 800,000
give advances on credit cards. In the north lent choice for those travelling on a budget.
E A S T E R N S E N E G A L
EASTERN SENEGAL
Gambia
Gambia
River
River
Kolountou
River
222 EASTERN SENEGAL " " Tambacounda www.lonelyplanet.com EASTERN SENEGAL " " Parc National de Niokolo-Koba 223
Tambacounda
0 400 m
The H�tel de Simenti in Niokolo-Koba is P�tisserie GuŁye & FrŁres (Blvd Demba Diop), next impediment. Normally, the eastbound train
TAMBACOUNDA
0 0.2 miles
run by the same family, so you re in perfect to Best Burger, is the place to get your bread passes through on Wednesday and Saturday
A B
hands if you intend to visit the park. and croissants in the morning. evening, but you always need to check at
INFORMATION EATING
H�tel Niji (%981 1250; [e-mail]; s/d/tr Also recommended: the station, as the service is notoriously un-
H�tel Niji.........................(see 8) Bar-Restaurant Chez
CFA11,200/14,00/16,700; This well-known Internet Caf�......................1 B3 Francis.........................9 B4 Chez Eva (Blvd Demba Diop) One of several reasonable reliable. The ticket office opens a few hours
a)
Pharmacy...........................2 B4 Best Burger....................10 A2
place has a rather basic main section that 1 gargottes (basic eateries) on Blvd Demba Diop. before the train arrives, but tickets can be
Post Office........................3 A2 Chez Eva.......................11 A2
has seen better days. The adjacent H�tel Niji SGBS Bank.........................4 B3 Chez Kadeyssa...............12 B4 Chez Nanette (meals about CFA1500; h8am-midnight) bought the day before. First/2nd-class fares
Chez Nanette................13 A4
Annexe, with thatch-roofed round houses Opposite the gare routiŁre; serves local and international fare. from Tambacounda are CFA10,995/8060
SLEEPING Complex Leggal Point....14 B2
Bloc Gadec........................5 A4 La Hortencia..................15 A2
in a shady garden compound, is a slightly La Hortencia (Blvd Demba Diop) Does the best salads to Kayes, CFA14,710/10,995 to Kita and
Complex Leggal Point....(see 14) Le Relais du Rais............16 A2
better choice, and a more upmarket section in town. CFA19,320/14,165 to Bamako.
H�tel Asta K�b�.................6 B4 Libre Service Chez
H�tel Keur Khoudia...........7 A2 Ibou Diop...................17 B3
was being built when we visited.
H�tel Niji...........................8 B4 Market..........................18 A2
Le Relais de Tamba (%981 1000; www.relaishorizons Getting Around PARC NATIONAL DE NIOKOLO-KOBA
Patisserie Gueye and
To Oasis Oriental
Public
FrŁres........................19 A2
Garden
.net; Rte National; s/d/tr CFA22,200/27,200/36,600; pa Club (800m); H All taxi trips around town cost CFA300  no The World Heritage site of Niokolo-Koba,
Le Relais de
18 need to bargain. a vast biosphere reserve spanning about
The Relais hotel chain has a reputa- Tamba (1km)
s) TRANSPORT
2 Car Mouride Station......20 A3
tion for classy simplicity, and this branch 9000 sq km, is Senegal s major national
Gare RoutiŁre.................21 A4
15
3
has all the niceties of their other places. For Getting There & Away park. The landscape is relatively flat, with
19 Blvd Demba Diop
those who like a certain level of comfort, this AIR plains, marshes and a few hills  the highest
11 Police 14
7 10 Train Station
16
hotel, 1km from Tamba, is the best option Tambacounda Airport is 8.5km out of town, is Mt Assirik (311m) in the southeast. The
in town. To Gare RoutiŁre for Transport on the road to Kedougou. A taxi from the vegetation is spectacularly varied, with sa-
to Kidira (900m); Headquarters
Oasis Oriental Club (%981 1824; rgueguen@sentoo 20 of Parc National de airport should cost around CFA3000. In vannah woodland and grassland, patches of
Niokolo-Koba (1km);
.sn; Rte National; s/d/tr CFA25,000/32,000/40,000; pa Kidira (186km); Bakel (235km) theory Air S�n�gal (%info line 804 0404) flies bamboo and gallery forest along the rivers.
from Dakar to Tambacounda (1ź hours) The Gambia River and its two tributar-
s) They may not be cheap, but the large
17
huts of this top-level campement (hostel) are twice every Saturday from November to ies, the Niokolo-Koba and the Koulountou,
Blvd Kandioura Noba
3
welcoming. With tasteful, minimalist d�cor March. Contact the airline first, though, as cross the vast wildeness and are crucial sources
4
and inviting bathrooms they might just be flights can be quite irregular. of water for the 80 species of mammals and
1
worth paying slightly exaggerated rates for. 350 bird species that inhabit the park.
Also worth considering: BUS & BUSH TAXI African classics such as lions live in the
Complex Leggal Pont (%981 1756; legalpont2003@ From the gare routiŁre on the eastern side of park, along with waterbucks, bushbucks,
River (seasonal)
yahoo.fr; Blvd Demba Diop; s/d from CFA8800/10,200; a) town vehicles go to the Mali border at Kidira kobs, duikers, roan antelopes, giant derby
9
Part of Tamba s main entertainment hub; the rooms are (CFA5000 by sept-place taxi, three hours; elands, hartebeests, baboons, monkeys
much nicer than the bleak corridors suggest. Weekend CFA3500 by minibus). Vehicles to most other (green and patas), warthogs and buffaloes.
12
crowds mean the rooms at the back get noisy. Some Minor Roads destinations go from the gare routiŁre on the Hippos and three types of crocodiles  the
21
Not Depicted
4
H�tel Asta K�b� (%981 1250; fax [phone]; s/d southern side of town. Nile, the slender-snouted and the dwarf 
2
8
CFA21,600/26,200; as) Once the best address in 13 V�lingara is well served by minibuses live in the rivers, and chimpanzee troops
5 6
town, this place is now slightly neglected and hoping for (CFA1400) and sept-place taxis (CFA1650), inhabit parts of the eastern and southern
To Airport (7km);
better days. as it s a popular place to cross into Gambia. areas, though you ll be lucky to spot them.
V�lingara (90km);
Kedougou (243km)
A sept-place journey from Dakar to Tamba Not all of Niokolo-Koba s enormous area
Eating & Drinking is CFA7500, or CFA5000 by Ndiaga Ndiaye. is equally well maintained, and visitors to
Tambacounda isn t exactly blessed with great Complex Leggal Pont (%981 1756; Blvd Demba Tamba to Kedougou is CFA4800 by sept- the more far-flung corners have reported
culinary choices, but there are a number of Diop; hrestaurant 8am-midnight, bar & nightclub 11pm- place, or CFA3500 by Ndiaga Ndiaye; Tamba woodcuttings and an eerie absence of wild-
decent gargottes (small, simple, local-style 4am) This may be a slightly rundown version to Kaolack is CFA4000. life. The best part for animal spotting is the
eating houses) and other cheap eateries in of an entertainment complex, but it s never- The car mouride (a long-distance bus area of Simenti.
the centre of town. theless very popular. The nightclub and bar service) leaves from outside the car mouride If you take the Tambacounda Kedougou
Le Relais du Rais (dishes from CFA500; hnoon- attract crowds on weekends. station (just south of the train station) daily route, you re likely to see monkeys, birds,
2.30pm & 6-11pm) It may look unremarkable, but Best Burger (%981 3203; Blvd Demba Diop; at 4.30am for Dakar (CFA5000, eight hours). porcupines and other animals crossing the
this little eatery serves excellent local dishes, amba s You have to reserve your place in advance at road or lying on the tarred road  be careful
h9am-2am) A popular hangout for T
including a mean thi�bouthienne (Senegalese youth, this places serves proper meals and the office. There are also cars mourides from if you re driving. Just before dawn, the road
rice and fish dish), and generous plates of pizzas as well as the biggest burgers ever here to Kedougou (CFA3000, three hours) is particularly full of animals, and there s a
yassa. encountered. and Bakel (CFA3500, five hours). good chance you might spot a lion stretch-
Bar-Restaurant Chez Francis (%643 1231; Av Self-caterers will find all the fruit, veg and ing out on the roadside.
L�opold Senghor; meals around CFA4000; h11am-2am) bags of rice they need at the local market. In TRAIN The park was neglected until the early
Popular because of the hearty meals, and the centre of town, the Libre Service Chez Ibou The train between Dakar and Bamako (Mali) 1990s, and poaching has also been a prob-
because it s got a reputation for attracting Diop (Av L�opold Senghor) is not only a good place passes through Tambacounda twice a week  lem, but international funding for its devel-
expats, this place has meals and cheap, ice- to find European foods, but also a good spot once in each direction (see p283) provided opment as part of the Parc Transfrontalier
cold beer. to meet and mingle in the evenings. The there hasn t been a derailment or other Niokolo-Badiar transnational ecosystem
E A S T E R N S E N E G A L
Av L�opold Senghor
EASTERN SENEGAL
224 EASTERN SENEGAL " " Parc National de Niokolo-Koba www.lonelyplanet.com EASTERN SENEGAL " " Bassari Country 225
(which includes areas in neighbouring FEES & GUIDES and get off at the Dar Salam park entrance. It s perfect for extended hiking tours
Guinea) has improved the situation slightly. The entrance fee (adults/children under 10 From there, you can call H�tel de Simenti along solitary paths that pass through bush-
Several NGOs are also working directly with CFA2000/free, vehicle CFA5000) gives you and they ll pick you up (CFA25,000). If you land and occasionally a tiny village. It s ad-
the surrounding populations to help con- access for 24 hours. Trained, approved and have a lot of time you can wait for a pass- visable to walk with an experienced guide
serve the resources found in the park, such English-speaking guides can be hired at the ing park vehicle, but those are few and far who knows the area and local people well.
as ronier palms and bamboo. gate or in Simenti (CFA6000 per day). between. Bring some small gifts of money, tea, coffee
and kola nuts, as a gesture of appreciation
Information Tours Getting Around for being allowed to visit the local villages.
Dar Salam is the main park entrance for Four or five-day all-inclusive tours from Without wheels, Simenti is the best base for Specialist tour companies in Dakar ar-
tourists on the main road between Tam- Dakar to Niokolo-Koba range from about walking tours in the immediate surround- range extended hiking trips here (see p149)
bacounda and Kedougou. The Dar Salam CFA150,000 to CFA200,000 per person, with ings. From the visitors centre, a path leads for and ever-growing numbers of adventurous
Biodiversity Centre, which does a lot of a minimum of four to six people (see p294). a few hundred metres to a hide overlooking travellers have started to come this way.
educational work with the local population, Several of Tambacounda s hotels, inclu- a water hole-grazing area (depending on the
houses a small exhibition and is a good ding H�tels Niji, Asta K�b� and Keur Khou- season). It s likely you ll see as many animals Kedougou
source of information. About an hour s dia can arrange 4WD tours (CFA70,000 to here as from the back of a 4WD. Kedougou is the largest town in southeast
drive south of Dar Salam lies Simenti, the CFA90,000). Rates usually include fuel, a The visitors centre or H�tel Simenti can Senegal, though this seems hard to believe
park s main focus, where many animals driver/guide and park admission for the car, organise your guide. They both also offer when you walk along the red, dusty roads
are concentrated. There s also a park of- but you pay separately for your park fees, pirogue tours (per person CFA3500). lined by lush greenery and traditional huts.
fice, visitors centre and the large H�tel de food and accommodation. The colourful market is famous for its in-
Simenti. LOCAL TAXI & FOUR-WHEEL-DRIVE HIRE digo fabrics, imported from Guinea. Other
Details about track conditions and other Sleeping & Eating You can hire sept-place taxis at Tamba s facilities include a petrol station, t�l�cen-
aspects of the park can be obtained from the Dar Salam Campement (%981 2575; Dar Salam; d/tr main gare routiŁre in town (CFA35,000 to tres (privately owned telephone bureaus),
park headquarters (%981 1097; h7.30am-5pm) CFA7000/8000, camping per tent CFA3500) At the park CFA50,000). Make sure the car s condition a Western Union office and Internet access
in Tambacounda, on the road to Kidira. A entrance, this campement has clean bunga- is good enough to get you into the park, and (a whopping CFA1500 per hour) at the Ke-
glossy visitor guide (in French; CFA6000), lows with private bathroom and a good remember to allow for all the other costs dougou Multi-Service.
including a park map and illustrations of restaurant (dishes cost CFA3500). Camping involved (admission, guides etc). The driver Alimentation de Dioubo in the town cen-
some of the wildlife you might see, is also is permitted, but there are no facilities. You should pay for his own food and accom- tre is a well-stocked grocery and a popular
available at the park entrance. need to be fully self-sufficient and that in- modation (the campement doesn t charge gathering ground in the evening for Ke-
cludes having your own wheels. drivers). dougou s youth. English-speaking  Darryl
WHEN TO GO H�tel de Simenti (%982 3650; Simenti; s/d A well-maintained sept-place taxi is likely who runs the place is also a mine of local
Parc National de Niokolo-Koba is officially CFA15,000/20,000; a) This concrete monstrosity to get you the necessary clearance for Simenti, information.
open from 15 December to 30 April  the may not look in touch with its surroundings, the Camp du Lion and the main central area.
park centres, biodiversity centre, even but it sits in a prime spot in the park over- If the rains have recently finished, it s a good SLEEPING
Hotel Simenti, are closed for the rest of the looking the river. The busiest animal sites are idea to call in at the park headquarters to These places all arrange tours in the sur-
year  though you can visit at any time. close to here, and you can see many animals ensure the track to Simenti is passable with- rounding area or to Parc National de
During the rains, and until late November, drinking and grazing from a nearby hide. out a 4WD. Niokolo-Koba and have cars for hire. Note
most park tracks are impassable without a Camp du Lion (r CFA7000, camping CFA3500) This You can hire 4WDs at the park head- that in most campements prices double for
4WD. In December and January conditions tiny campement about 10km east of Simenti quarters in Tamba (CFA70,000 per day, air-con rooms.
are pleasantly cool, but the best viewing has simple huts in a beautiful spot beside including fuel); with Malaw Diouf (%539 Campement Bantamba (Chez Moulaye; %558 0154;
time for wildlife is during the hot season the Gambia River. It can be reached in an 6840; H�tel Asta K�b�; per day CFA40,000-50,000) at or s/d CFA8300; pa) Set in a large garden by
(April to May) when the vegetation has ordinary car and has a 4WD for excursions through most other hotels. Staff at the H�tel the river on the edge of town, this youth-
withered and animals congregate at water (half-day per person CFA6000). You can de Simenti recommend Mr Timeri (%981 1348, run campement feels wonderfully remote;
holes. The park gates are open from 7am also walk to the nearby pointe de vue (look- 646 4152). the restaurant is also good, and has a well-
to 6pm daily. out), where hippos and other animals drink deserved reputation for serving up the best
on the opposite bank of the river. BASSARI COUNTRY spaghetti Bolognese.
ACCESS The far southeast corner of Senegal is often Chez Diao (%985 1124; d CFA5400; a) This
You must have a vehicle to enter the park, as Getting There & Away called Bassari country after the largest tribal relaxed, leafy place in the centre of Ke-
walking is not allowed except near accom- You re best off hiring a taxi (around group, whose traditional way of life gives dougou has clean bungalows with shared
modation sites or in the company of a park CFA35,000 to CFA40,000 per day) or 4WD this region its particular character. This is toilets. Breakfast costs CFA1000 and meals,
ranger. Travellers without a car can visit the (around CFA60,000 to CFA70,000 per day) the only place in Senegal where you can usually a choice of chicken and chips or
park using public transport or sept-place in Tamba. There s also an official transfer go mountain climbing. The striking land- Senegalese food (CFA3000) are available to
taxis or on an organised tour. All tracks, between H�tel Keur Khoudia in Tamba and scape, with its cragged mountain paths, for- nonguests too.
except those between the park gate and the H�tel de Simenti (CFA60,000). ests, plateaus and steep waterfalls has much Le Nieriko (%985 1459; d/tr CFA8600/12,600;
Simenti area, require a 4WD, even in the If you do rely on public transport, take a in common with the adjacent Futa Jallon On the edge of town, Le Nieriko has
a)
dry season. Kedougou minibus from Tamba (CFA4500) region in neighbouring Guinea. well-kept bungalows in a spacious garden
E A S T E R N S E N E G A L
EASTERN SENEGAL
� Lonely Planet Publications
226 EASTERN SENEGAL " " Bassari Country www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com EASTERN SENEGAL " " Bassari Country 227
setting, and satellite TV in the lounge for supposedly leave every day, but the best day The road leads mainly through forest and
GUIDED WALKS
the bored. to set off is Friday. bushland, and there s a good chance of spot-
The company of a clued-up guide is inval- ting chimpanzees in the trees (some of the
Le Bedik (%985 1000; s/d/tr with breakfast 22,200/
uable for exploring the myriad mountain
27,000/36,600; pas) Kedougou s most up- Around Kedougou few wild chimps left in Senegal). Ethiolo s
paths of Bassari country. Two of the best
market accommodation, this place has com- Kedougou is a pretty town, but mainly it s the brilliant Campement Chez Balingo (%985 1401)
guides in the region are Noumou Diallo
fortable, TV-equipped bungalows, a tennis starting point for visits to the hills of Bassari has accommodation in traditional Bassari
and Amadou Ba, who are based at Le B�dik
court and friendly management. country. The best way to explore Kedougou s stone huts, and is run by the enthusiastic and
(%985 1000) hotel; phone reception and ask
Other options: stunning surroundings is a combination of knowledgeable Balingo, who can take you on
for them. They come from the area, know
Campement Dioulaba (%985 1278; d CFA9000; a) driving (a 4WD) and hiking  best done in exciting tours of Ethiolo s surroundings.
the best routes through the hills, and have a
In the centre of town, opposite Chez Diao and with similar the company of a good guide (see opposite).
good relationship with the villagers, which
facilities. DINDEFELO & DANDE
will make you, the visiting stranger, much
Campement Mo�se (%985 1139; d/tr CFA6000/9600; THE KEDOUGOU SAL�MATA ROUTE One of the most popular destinations from
more welcome. It remains up to you though
a) Another typical Kedougou campement with thatched- The washed-out westbound road from Ke- Kedougou is Dindefelo, famous for its im-
to show the proper respect and perhaps
roof huts, basic rooms and shared bathrooms. dougou towards Sal�mata is lined with small pressive 100m waterfall with a deep, green
present kola nuts, money and small gifts
Relais de Kedougou (%985 1062; [e-mail]; roadside villages, typically inhabited by Fula pool suitable for swimming. It s a 2km hike
to the chefs de village (village chiefs).
s/d from CFA11,600/14,200; pas) A hunter s favour- and Bassari people and other tribal groups through lush forest from Dindefelo village to
They can arrange anything from leisurely
ite, opposite Le Bedik. The restaurant has great river views. up in the mountains, and accessible by tiny the cascade. The starting point is the campe-
day trips to strenuous hikes of several days
mountain paths. These are the hamlets of ment villageois (%658 8707; r per person CFA3000), a
through the forests, mountains and tiny
EATING & DRINKING the B�dik, seminomadic people who adhere great place with accommodation in basic,
B�dik and Bassari villages, with the possibil- well-kept huts and tasty Senegalese food.
All the campements serve food, though most strongly to traditional lifestyles and are keen
ity of sleeping either in the homes of locals
only do so on request. Otherwise it s down to to preserve their relative isolation. You pay CFA500 waterfall admission at the
or in campements (hostels). They usually
the cheap eateries around the market, such One of the nearest villages is Bandafassi, campement; the money goes to the village 
charge CFA10,000 per day; rates for longer
as Keur Niasse (meals around CFA1500; h10am-10pm), the capital of Kedougou district. The inhabi- just check the solar-powered streetlights.
excursions need to be negotiated.
near Campement Diao. The most upmar- tants are mainly Fula and Bassari, and the Much less visited is the village of Dande, on
ket restaurant is Nieta (meals around CFA1000-2500; village is renowned for its basket makers. In the hill above Dindefelo, but if you love steep
on the route to Indar, a part of Bandafassi, is the wonder- climbs, don t miss out on this spectacular
h11am-2.30pm & 7pm-11pm),
Tamba, with simple meals and drinks in a fully welcoming campement Chez L�ontine keep a respectful distance, so as not to turn a hike. From here, you can visit the source of
spacious, pretty round hut. (%554 9915; d CFA6000), with solar-powered local celebration into a tourist event. Gilbert the waterfall and stand scarily close to the
For an evening drink, try the Tour de Babel lights and delicious meals prepared by the can invite Bassari dancers to perform some top edge (don t go here without a guide, as
(admission around CFA1000; h9pm-2am) or Black & charming owner. It s a great base for hikes of their spectacular masked and costumed the deep drop is hidden by some innocent-
White (admission around CFA1000; h8pm-2am), both up the hill to the B�dik village of Ethiowar, dances outside this season. looking shrubs). Nearby there s also an
lively bar-nightclubs.  Grown folks are said from where you get wonderful views over The best day to visit is Tuesday, when impressive natural cave  gigantic, and so
to prefer the dance floors of La Popotte at the surrounding savannah. the lumo (weekly market) brings the vil- smoothly hollowed out as if manmade or
the military camp. Ibel, a Fula village, lies another 7km up lage to life, and with it a better chance of shaped by water  a striking sight. Watch
the road from Bandafassi. Here you ll find public transport (minibus from Kedougou out for the beehives in the bushes.
GETTING AROUND the slightly neglected Campement Baobab CFA2250, four hours), for those who really If you rely on public transport, go to Din-
Almost all campements have one or more (d CFA6000). Visits are usually combined with a can t afford a hired 4WD  a good invest- defelo on Sunday, the day of the lumo. The
4WDs with a driver for hire (CFA40,000 to steep hike up to Iwol, a stunningly beautiful ment, considering the dreadful state of the minibus costs CFA700 and takes two hours,
CFA50,000 per day), and some rent bicy- community stretched out between a giant road. but a hired 4WD really is the better option:
cles (CFA3000), which are good for town fromager (kapok tree) and a sacred baobab. Don t leave Sal�mata without taking the the road is no fun, and a punctured minibus
trips, but often too clapped-out for trips Plenty of legends are associated with this 15km trip to Ethiolo, either on foot or by car. wheel much less so. It can eat an entire day.
into the hills. place, and the local teacher will share them
with you for a donation (CFA1000). The
GETTING THERE & AWAY local women make beautiful pottery  tiny
There s plenty of traffic between Tamba and Bassari statuettes and small incense burners
Kedougou (sept-place taxi CFA4800, Ndiaga (CFA300 per piece).
Ndiagye CFA3500, four hours). There s no Continuing west from Ibel, you reach
regular public transport to Mali, but in- Sal�mata, 83km west of Kedougou. This is
trepid overland drivers occasionally go this a regional hub, with a health centre, small
� Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
way. Complete all your exit formalities in boutiques and the friendly campement Chez
Kedougou, as the border post on the route Gilbert (%985 5009; d/tr CFA8000/9000). In April restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
to K�ni�ba is unreliable. and May, the entire region surrounding
only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
In contrast Guinea is well served by public Sal�mata is plunged into weeklong festivi-
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
transport (sept-place taxi to Labe CFA15,000; ties during the annual initiation ceremonies
minibus CFA12,000, 24 to 48 hours). Taxis of the Bassari. Observers are accepted, but the above -  Do the right thing with our content.
E A S T E R N S E N E G A L
EASTERN SENEGAL