��� Lonely Planet Publications 128 www.lonelyplanet.com CENTRAL GAMBIA " " Bintang Bolong 129 Central & Eastern This is a great, family-friendly place to CENTRAL GAMBIA explore the natural surroundings of central Gambia, and catch a glimpse of rural life  Gambia BINTANG BOLONG the camp is closely integrated with the local A large, meandering tributary of the Gambia community, employing villagers and invest- River, Bintang Bolong rises in Senegal and ing in schools and hospitals. joins the river about 50km upstream from Banjul. The banks of the tidal river are lined Getting There & Away Gambia being such a tiny sliver of land, nothing is really remote  yet once you ve spent 12 with mangroves, and tucked away among Twice a day there s a bus from Brikama to hours on the tyre-busting road that leads upcountry, you ll probably feel as though you ve the maze of shrubs near Bintang is the Bintang (D25, one hour). If you can t face spectacular Bintang Bolong Lodge (%4488035, the wait for the bus to fill up, you can hire crossed the continent. The route winds through crop fields, rice paddies, palm groves and 9867615; www.bintang-bolong.com; r per person D400; a private taxi (around D1700 to D2000). The patches of natural forest. Every 10km or so there s a junction where a dirt track leads north an int imate, ecofriendly camp made driver needs to follow the main road east s), towards the Gambia River, which is never far away, but always frustratingly out of view. from local mangrove, and clay bricks. It was through the village of Somita, and at Killy renovated in 2004 and now houses up to 16 turn left (north) along the dirt road to reach If you want to see the waterway or maybe even go on a pirogue trip, just hop off the people in stunning huts that sit on stilts on Bintang village and the lodge. Or just phone taxi and put in a couple of overnight stops at the few brilliantly located camps that are the river. If the tide is high, you can almost the place and arrange to be picked up. sprinkled along the riverside. Most of these are well equipped for ardent bird-watchers, leap from your bedroom into a canoe and go bird-watching or fishing in the man- KANILAI for whom a trip upcountry is a must. Numerous national parks  including the River Gam- groves. The lodge offers boat trips (D800 A small village near the Senegalese border, bia and Kiang West National Parks and the Baobolong Wetland Reserves  feature such a per hour per boat), as well as plenty of other Kanilai is the hometown of President Jam- stunning array of birds (and other wildlife) that nature lovers might be tempted to camp activities (visits to the local crocodile pool meh. He s honoured his birthplace and put out here for days. where you can get close-up views of baby it on the tourist map through the construc- crocs are a favourite). It can also arrange tion of the Sindola Safari Lodge (%4483415/6; Gambia s inland is best explored in leisure mode  there s plenty to see, and most places a pick-up from Brikama (D750), Banjul or [e-mail]; hut D1020, ste D2040; as), a are tucked away in the country s remote corners. By far the most enjoyable way of travel- Serekunda (D1200) or Soma (D2000). most luxurious upcountry lodging. ling here is by boat  hardly surprising, as the narrow strip that is Gambia consists largely 0 10 km CENTRAL GAMBIA 0 6 miles of waterway. Chugging slowly upriver, past mangrove-lined creeks, tiny islands and wide To Kaolack (70km); wetlands might easily be the unexpected highlight of your entire trip. Dakar (250km) Saboya S E N E G A L Senegalese M�dina Border Post Sabakh EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEFarafenni Gambian Border Post Jowara Dobo Forest Park Kusaywa No Kunda Illiassa Forest Park HIGHLIGHTS To Kuntaur EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE Nja (Njaba) EEEE Kuntair (94km) Gunjur Kunda Pukalu Bambatenda Saba Forest Park Ferry Wake up to the lapping of the waves and Baobolong Suarra Kunda Kinteh EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE EEEEEEEEE EEEE Wetland Reserve Yelitenda Katchang the calls of the birds at Bintang Bolong Kunda Kumadi Kerewan Salikene Mansa (opposite), where huts stand on stilts in Forest Park Jasabo Toubab Kollon Konko HHHHHH EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE EEEEEEEEE EEEE Pakali Nding Point the river Soma Kemoto Tendaba Genieri Tankular To Georgetown EEEEEEEEEEE EEEEEEEEEEEEEE EE Take a pirogue from Tendaba to the maze EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE Batelling (119km); Basse River Gambia Santa Su (184km) of mangroves in the Baobolong Wetland Kaiaf National Park Janneh Kwinella Baobolong Wetland Diganteh Kunda EEEEEEEEEEEEEE EEEEEEEEEEE EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE Reserve (p131) Kiang West Reserve S�noba National Park Mutaro Kunda Georgetown Forest Park Manduar Follow in the footsteps of histories old (Jangjang-bureh) EEEEEEEEEEE EEEEE Dumbuntu HHH and new at Georgetown (Jangjang- HH Keneba Bintang Bolong bureh; p133), where relics of ancient Missira Tenda EEEEEEEEEEE Portuguese Sankandi African and modern European cultures S E N E G A L Church Ruins document different eras EEEEEEEEEEE Kalagi Bintang Try your luck at spotting hippos and Sintet Bwiam Bondali EEEEEEEEEEE chimpanzees on a boat tour to River Killy Sibanor Jola HH Gambia National Park (p138) To Brikama (56km); Kandion EEEEEEEEEEE Banjul (92km); Kanilai Kamamudu Mangana Serekunda (200km) To Bignona Kandiadiou (75km); Ziguinchor POPULATION: 450,000 (100km) C E N T R A L & E A S T E R N G A M B I A GAMBIA CENTRAL & EASTERN Tr an s-Ga mb Ba ia Hwy o B ol ong Gambia River lo Bo ng ng ta Bin Ju run gku Bol ong mani 130 CENTRAL GAMBIA " " Tendaba www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com CENTRAL GAMBIA " " Kiang West National Park 131 Sindola offers the whole dazzling range classic on the travellers scene, providing con- longer trips. A river tour is a particularly TWITCHER TIPS: KIANG WEST of tourist facilities, from tennis and volley- sistently good accommodation, service and good idea (see p290). Prices differ widely  NATIONAL PARK ball courts to massage parlours and several a range of excursions. Tendaba s attraction it s worth doing some phoning around before bars and restaurants, spread out across a lies in its position  opposite the Baobolong making your booking. Tours typically in- With more than 300 recorded species, Kiang West National Park is one of the richest bird- vast terrain of 30,000 sq metres. Birding Wetland Reserve and in close proximity to clude transport, accommodation, food and ing areas in Gambia, and something of a pil- trips and river fishing can be organised, too. Kiang West National Park  in short, it s a side trips. The place owes its name  Safari Lodge to an bird-watcher s dream destination. Another option is to come from the At- grimage site for keen watchers. Even visitors with little interest in the feathered creatures adjoining wildlife park, a rather sad story of Accommodation ranges from small bung- lantic Coast resorts by green tourist taxi have been converted to binocular-wielding animals in cages. Several large mammals, alows to VIP rooms, fully equipped with a (about D4000 for the car, carrying up to four bird spotters, attracted by the sight of the including a couple of lions, were acquired river-edge veranda and TV. The restaurant people) and pay for your own room, food large Abyssinian ground hornbill, ospreys, to be  put on display , but died before the gets consistently good reviews  great news, and day trips directly to the camp. park was completed. as there s hardly anywhere else to go for a Independent travellers on public trans- fish eagles, martial eagles and bateleur eagles. While raptor species are particu- To get here from the coast, you could take meal in the near surroundings. The bush pig port should take a bush taxi from Banjul larly common here, many other varieties, an all-inclusive tour from the Kairaba Hotel in pepper sauce is a treat, and the evening or Serekunda along the main road towards including the rare brown-necked parrot and (p108), or hire a private taxi (around D3000). buffets leave you spoilt for choice The camp Soma. Get off at the village of Kwinella; the the more common white-rumped swift are On public transport, take a bush taxi from frequently organises dance and drumming camp (signposted) is 5km north along the found here. Tendaba Camp has regular ex- Brikama and get off at the police checkpoint shows (donations always welcome). dirt road. There are no regular minibuses, cursions to Kiang West, though for expert where the highway and the road to Kanilai From Tendaba, you can arrange 4WD ex- but camp manager Saja Touray promises to meet. Kanilai is 6km further south. cursions to Kiang West National Park and collect anyone from Kwinella for free. Other- birding advice, you should consider coming with a specialist guide, and exploring the boat rides around the creeks of the Baobo- wise it s a walk or trip by donkey cart. area on your own. TENDABA long Wetland Reserve. If you don t want to On the southern bank of the Gambia River, the take a vehicle trip, there are lots of options for KIANG WEST NATIONAL PARK small village of Tendaba is 165km upstream walking in this area. A good destination for South of the river, and to the west of Tend- from Banjul. The village occupies a place of the day is Toubab Kollon Point, about 7km aba Camp, Kiang West National Park (admission A popular place for viewing wildlife is honour in the upriver itineraries of many from the camp (see opposite for details). D31.50) is one of the largest protected areas Toubab Kollon Point, a river promontory in the travellers, thanks to the enduringly attrac- in Gambia, and boasts its biggest and most northeast of the park. Behind the point, the tive Tendaba Camp (%4541024, 4465288; tendaba@ Getting There & Away diverse animal population. Habitats include escarpment runs close to the riverbank, and qanet.gm; bungalows with/without bathroom from D245/ Many people come to Tendaba Camp as mangrove creeks and mud flats (the river is 2km west is a viewing hide overlooking a 225, VIP r D270). Established in the 1970s as a part of a tour, and most large hotels and still tidal this far upstream), plus large areas water hole, which attracts a good range of hunting camp, the hotel is something of a tour operators offer two-day excursions or of dry woodland and grassland. A major animals, especially in the dry season. Novem- natural feature is an escarpment, which runs ber to January are the best months to visit, parallel to the riverbank. We re not talking but wear pants to avoid being bitten by tsetse THE STATE OF THE ROADS Rift Valley here, but even 20m is significant flies. The admission fee is payable at the park Two main arteries connect the eastern and western parts of Gambia  the north-bank road, on the in a country as flat as Gambia, and from headquarters in Dumbuntu, although this is upper side of the river, and the south-bank road, which parallels the Gambia River in the south. this high point you can look over the nar- included in the price if you re on a tour from Both roads have been in a terrible state for years, the northern route being a washed-out dirt road, row plain between the escarpment foot and Tendaba. the southern a potholed stretch of tarred road. The southern connection used to be the better the river itself. Animals are often seen here, choice of two dire options, and the route used by most public transport. Yet continuous neglect especially at the three water holes. BAOBOLONG WETLAND RESERVE has meant that the artery is now so rundown that it s even worse to drive on than the north-bank Kiang is one of the best places in Gambia A tributary of the Gambia River, Bao Bolong road. Bush taxis frequently drive on improvised dirt tracks beside the road, and Gambia s formerly to get a close-up look at cute bushbabies. rises in Senegal and enters the main river on proud bus network has literally been ground to a halt by the sand and stones. Other frequently observed mammals in- the northern side, upstream from Tendaba. If you re in your own car take the ferry from Banjul to Barra and travel via the north bank; clude baboons, colobus monkeys, warthogs, It contains several other bolongs (creeks), as your tyres and gearbox will be forever grateful. If you re travelling by bush taxi, you probably marsh mongooses and bushbucks. You may well as mangroves and salt marshes, which don t have much choice but to go via the southern route. From the coast to Brikama the tarred see an antelope called a roan  it s large and together with the surrounding dry savannah road is smooth, but the holes start only a few kilometres further down. The stretch from there horselike (hence the name), and migrates woods and grassland make Baobolong Wet- to Soma is the worst, and things only really get better shortly before Georgetown. Georgetown into the area from Casamance. Making very land Reserve of international importance. to Basse is miraculously paved, raising hopes that the rest of the artery might be blessed with rare appearances are sitatungas, a larger rel- Baobolong is a Ramsar (the international a new layer of asphalt, too, though no immediate works had been announced when we visited. ative of the bushbuck that are aquatic and wetlands convention) site. The northern road, by contrast, is supposed to benefit from some fairly imminent improvements  adept at swimming and moving through The mangroves in this area are some of ask around when you re there (and let us know!). river vegetation using their wide hooves. the largest in the region, growing over 20m Whether you re going via the northern or southern connection, allow at least 12 hours for the Other rarely sighted species include hy- high in places and forming a virtual forest. tedious journey from the coast to Basse Santa Su. And if you want to eschew the treacherous enas, leopard, manatees, dolphins and croc- Birds are a major attraction  marshlands potholes altogether and experience the scenery at its best, take the boat along Gambia s smooth- odiles. Birds are also plentiful, with more attract large numbers of herons (including est east west connection  the Gambia River. than 300 species recorded (see right for bird- the white-backed night heron) and egrets, watching tips). the rare Pel s fishing owls and mouse-brown C E N T R A L & E A S T E R N G A M B I A GAMBIA CENTRAL & EASTERN 132 CENTRAL GAMBIA " " Soma & Mansa Konko www.lonelyplanet.com EASTERN GAMBIA " " Georgetown (Jangjang-bureh) 133 sunbirds. The reserve also protects various office to you. Taking your own car across will or anywhere upcountry on the southern SOMA, MANSA KONKO 0 8 km aquatic mammal species such as manatees, cost around D65  exact rates often depend bank, you have to go to Soma and change. & FARAFENNI 0 4 miles clawless otters and marshbucks. on the mood of the official you happen to If you re heading for Dakar there are bush A B The best way to experience this wonder- encounter on the day. You ll probably have taxis for CFA4000; some go from Farafenni To Kaolack ful maze of islands and waterways is by boat, SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES to wait a while for a place, but it s not as bad itself, but most go from the Senegal side (70km); Colonial Villa....................................1 B3 Dakar (250km) which is most easily arranged at Tendaba 1 as the Banjul to Barra ferry. of the border. A minibus from the bush District Commissioner s Residence..(see 1) Camp. Kataba Fort.......................................2 B2 If you re on foot, you can also jump onto taxi stop in Farafenni to the Senegal border S E N E G A L a pirogue (D4). Pirogues leave when they re post is D5. Senegalese M�dina SOMA & MANSA KONKO Border Post full. You ll have pay another D4 for access Sabakh Gambian Soma is a junction town where the main Jamal to the port. A private pirogue should cost Border Post MBallo 3 road crosses the Trans-Gambia Hwy, and is about D80. EASTERN GAMBIA Sukoto Farafenni Dipa Kunda Fula Wollof where you change transport if you re head- EEEEEEEE To Kuntaur To Barra (104km) 2 ing upcountry by bush taxi or, crucially, fill FARAFENNI Beyond Farafenni is the Gambia River s tran- (94km) Pakala H Forest Park up the tank before continuing your journey Situated on the Trans-Gambia Hwy north of sition zone  the area where it changes from EEEEEEEE 2 east, where service stations are rare. the Gambia River, Farafenni is a busy little saline to fresh water. The character of the Bambatenda Soma is a dusty, flyblown place, with the town and much more pleasant than Soma. river is also different: the tidal change is less 7 EEE EEEEEEEEEE EEEEEEEE Yelitenda main street full of trucks and rubbish, and People come from surrounding villages and noticeable, the mangroves thin out and thick nothing in the way of attractions. The border merchants come from as far as Mauritania forest grows down to the water s edge. And BalinghoEEEEEEEE EEE EEEEEEEEEE is only a few kilometres to the south, and the and Guinea to sell their wares at the main you ll increasingly notice islands on the river, H Gambian customs and immigration post is EEEEEEEEEE Sunday lumo (market). This is a good place the most famous being Baboon Island, which EEE Mansa Devil To Georgetown Pakali Konko Point 1 (119km); Nding on the eastern edge of town. About 10km to sample upcountry life, although it feels is part of the River Gambia National Park. 4 Basse Santa Su (184km) EEEEEEEEEE north of Soma is Yelitenda, where you catch more like Senegal than Gambia: CFA francs As you head up the river there are several 5 6 Soma the ferry across the Gambia River to Bamba- Gambian are used more than dalasi, and more French colonial-era towns. Georgetown and Basse Border EEEEEEEEEE 3 Massembe tenda, and then continue to Farafenni. Post is spoken than English. If you re low on cash Santa Su are both well worth visiting, as are Genieri Near Soma is Mansa Konko, originally visit the Trust Bank (%5735238; fax [phone]); it s the Wassu Stone Circles, enigmatic relics of EEEEEEEEEE Kaiaf To Brikama an important local chief s capital (the name the only bank for many kilometres. The Sen- an entirely different era. (134km); Banjul means  king s hill ), and then an administra- Diganteh egal border, 2km to the north, is open from (170km) S�noba tive centre during the colonial era. Today it s 7am to midnight. GEORGETOWN (JANGJANG-BUREH) Border Post a sleepy ghost town with a few reminders of If you do get stuck here, it s worth tak- Under the British, Georgetown was a busy Njolfen To Bignona (153km); the glory days, such as the district commission- ing the dirt road 10km east to Kataba Fort. administrative centre and trading hub full Ziguinchor (180km) er s residence and the crumbling colonial villa. Though reduced to its dusty foundations, of grand buildings. Today it has a new (or SLEEPING this 1841 Wolof construction tells a half- should that be old?) name, a host of crum- Eddy s Hotel & Bar...........................3 A2 4 Sleeping & Eating Government Resthouse....................4 B3 forgotten story of old African kingdoms. bling monuments to history and the sort of Ndiamakouta Moses Guesthouse...........................5 B3 Moses Guesthouse (%4531462; r per person D125) sluggish atmosphere that discourages all but SENEGAL TRANSPORT If you get stuck in Soma, this lively place Sleeping & Eating the most necessary work  it s the perfect Bush Taxi & Minibuses...................... B3 6 on the north side of the main junction is Eddy s Hotel & Bar (%7735225; s/d with bathroom D200/ place to relax for a couple of days. Ferry................................................7 A2 the best option. Since it s the most popular 250; a) This place has been a popular travel- Located on the northern edge of Mac- place in a busy junction town, it can get lers meeting point for many years. You can Carthy Island in the Gambia River, about quite noisy, but then again, it comes with from Serekunda). Transport to Georgetown eat chicken and chips or benechin (rice in a 300km by road from Banjul, the traditional the added attraction of 24-hour electricity. (D80) and Basse Santa Su (D90) leaves from thick sauce of meat and vegetables) for in the and now officially reintroduced name for Government Resthouse (s/d D150/250) This place the same park. Heading south, you can also shady garden courtyard (D35 to D45) while the town and island is Jangjang-bureh, but in Mansa Konko is officially for government get bush taxis from the border to Bignona the apparently carefree Eddy shoots (un- most people still call it Georgetown. The is- staff only, but desperate travellers can stay and Ziguinchor in southern Senegal. successfully) at small birds with an air gun. land is 10km long and 2.5km wide, covered in the usually clean rooms. It s 2.5km from If you re heading north from Soma, take a Self-contained rooms come with either twin with fields of rice and groundnuts, and has the main road near the old district commis- local bush taxi to the Gambia River ferry at or double beds; note that room rates nearly ferry links to both riverbanks. There is little sioner s residence, which is the highest point Yelitenda (D6), go across as a foot passenger double if you request air-con. There s also safe in terms of infrastructure  no banks, no for several kilometres around with some fine (D5), and take one of the vehicles waiting parking, cold beer and a disco at weekends. hospital  but there's an Internet caf� (per hr views over the Gambia River valley; the resi- on the northern bank at Bambatenda to Fara- For cheap food, there are several chop D25; h9am-6pm) for those who feel they need dence is also where to go if there s no-one fenni (D6), where you can find transport to shops (local restaurants) on the main street, a connection beyond the island. around at the resthouse. Kaolack or Dakar. The ferry service oper- south of the junction. While in Georgetown, or even on the ates between 8am and 9pm, usually every ferry taking you there, you ll undoubtedly Getting There & Away half-hour, though waits can be longer, and Getting There & Away be approached by persistent local youths of- Most bush taxis from Serekunda terminate the ferry suffers fairly frequent breakdowns. If you re heading for Banjul, direct mini- fering their services as guides. Unless you re at the bush-taxi park in Soma s centre (the Tickets can be bought about 1km before you buses from Farafenni go to Serekunda most very directionally challenged you won t need fare is D90) or go on to Farafenni (D100 reach the ferry  anyone can indicate the mornings for D90. If you re heading south their help; don t be afraid to say no. C E N T R A L & E A S T E R N G A M B I A GAMBIA CENTRAL & EASTERN Trans-Gambia Hwy Ga m bia R iv er 134 EASTERN GAMBIA " " Georgetown ( Jangjang-bureh) www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com EASTERN GAMBIA " " Georgetown (Jangjang-bureh) 135 0 30 km EASTERN GAMBIA 0 20 miles Maka-Gouye EEEEEEEEEEEEE Njau S E N E G A L EEEEEEEEEEEEE EEEEE Charmen Wassu Stone Jane Kunda Circles Kau-ur Wassu EEEEEEEEEEEEE EEEEE Kudang Kuntaur Maka Balanghar Ker Nderry River Gambia Sotokoi National Tabanani EEEEEEEEEEEEE Douta Bassi EE Park Lamin Koto Karantaba Baboon Stone Ngeyen Tenda Njallal Manna N�t�boulou Island Circle Sanjal EEEEEEEEEEEEE Karantaba E EE EEE EE Dankunka MacCarthy Tabokoto Jarume Piniai Fula Koto Island Kunda Georgetown Sambang EEEEEEEEEEEEEEE Kunting E E EE EEE Mungo Park Brikama Ba (Jangjang-bureh) Sara Kunda Memorial Pakali Ba Brifu Sankuli Kunda Sutukoba Dobo Kunkiling Baro Kunda Forest EEEEEEEEEEEEEEE E E EE EE To Forest Koina Yoro Beri Park Badja Tambacounda Park Kunda Kunda (45km) Bambali Sutukung EEEEEEEEEEEEE EE EEEE EE EE EE EEEE EE EE Yarobawal Pata Bansang Jappeni Bureng To Soma Sare Sofi Fatoto Garowal (10km); EEEEEEEEEEEEE EE EEEE Darsilami EEEEEEEKantale EE EEEEE EE EE EE EE EE Jassong Banjul Kulari Kunda Diabugu (200km) S E N E G A L EE EEEEEEEEE EEEEEEEEE EEE E Basse Manda Santa Su Sare Bojo EEEEEEE EEEEE EEEEEEE Alohungari Mansajang Bakadaji M�dina Yorofoula EEEEE Gambissara Sabi To V�lingara (40km); To M�dina Badiara Kolda (160km) Gounas (30km) Sights of slavery, or think of it as entertainment. visits to the Mungo Park memorial at Karan- generator is a good indicator. It s set in lush It may only take you a couple of hours to Your choice  but be aware of the  Visitors taba Tenda, the River Gambia National Park, gardens near the river at the eastern end of wander around Georgetown, but there is Book , encouraging incredibly generous the Wassu Stone Circles and the Dobo and town. The camp attracts plenty of birds, and probably more to see here and in the sur- donations in the memory of slavery. Kunkilling Forest Parks. some of the various pirogue tours on offer rounding area than in almost any other Nearby is the old Commissioner s Quarters Most of the camps in Georgetown organ- are particularly geared towards twitchers. town in Gambia. Most of the  sights have now inhabited by the district governor, and ise tours, and prices are roughly the same. Bird Safari Camp (%5676108; fax [phone]; www a historical bent; two of the most interest- a monument to Fort George outside the police Expect to pay D3500 per pirogue for day .bsc.gm; r with half board per person D1000; s) Some ing are crumbling late-Victorian warehouses station. The fort was built by the British in trips to the River Gambia National Park 2.5km west of a tiny island town, this place situated on the waterfront either side of the 1823 after the local king asked for their pro- and D4000 for the double deal of a visit to is about as secluded as it gets. Accommo- northern ferry landing. Enterprising local tection against a neighbouring tribe. West of Wassu and the River Gambia National Park. dation is in bungalows or luxury tents with youths have created a local  Roots industry town is the Armitage High School, a historical Baobolong Camp offers two-day boat trips bathroom. It has a generator, which you ll from the structures. It started with one of building of vague interest to anyone keen on to Karantaba Tenda (including on-board ac- appreciate after dark. A resident ornitholo- the warehouses being referred to as  Slave colonial architecture. commodation, D8000). Circumnavigations gist, private hides and guided walks make it House , which was then changed to  Slave Those with a penchant for ancient histor- of MacCarthy Island also make for a good a favourite with bird-watchers. To get here Prison ; the place was then decorated with ical features should take a trip to Lamin Koto day out (per pirogue D1300). from central Georgetown, you can either lit candles and a matching story was created. Stone Circle. It's a smaller and less impressive Georgetown sees a lot of visitors inter- hire a taxi or call to arrange a pick-up. This A  Freedom Tree , claimed to guarantee lib- monument than the famous Wassu Stone ested in bird life, and most camps run bird- camp is on the itinerary of Hidden Gambia eration to any slave who touched it, another Circles, but sitting only 1.7km away from ing excursions. The ones offered by the Bird river trips (see p290), and can be reached by  Slave House and finally a  Slave Market the north bank, it's closer and thus in good Safari Camp are particularly recommended. river as part of its tour. joined the scene. Although records show reach for those who can t make it to Wassu. Bird Safari Camp and Jangjang-bureh Camp Jangjang-bureh Camp (%/fax [phone]; slaves were transported through George- The circle is on the right (northeast) side of are the best providers for river excursions. www.gambiariver.com; r per person D200) This rootsy town, it is unlikely that the buildings were the road, under a big tree. place on the north bank of the Gambia used in this trade as they were built well Sleeping River consists of an eclectic collection of after slavery was abolished in British colo- Tours Baobolong Camp (%5676133; fax [phone]; Owens St; rustic bungalows set in a mazelike garden. nies in 1807. You might find this profitable Georgetown is an excellent base for pirogue s/d D300/400) This is the best-functioning place Lighting is by oil lamps, and a drink at the rewriting of history an insult to the victims tours and birding trips as well as for day in Jangjang-bureh itself  the luxury of a bar overlooking the river is a fine way to C E N T R A L & E A S T E R N G A M B I A GAMBIA CENTRAL & EASTERN Gambia River long Bo ama iny Sof Ga mb ia Ri ver 136 EASTERN GAMBIA " " Georgetown ( Jangjang-bureh) www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com EASTERN GAMBIA " " Wassu Stone Circles 137 0 200 m off to drop off or pick up passengers here although dating techniques show that bodies GEORGETOWN (JANGJANG-BUREH) 0 0.1 miles if you ask them. Ferry crossing costs D50/5 may have been buried after the circles were AC D B for cars/passengers. On the island, pick-ups constructed. Little else is known about the To Bush Taxis to Wassu & Kuntaur (200m); take people to Georgetown for D10. people who built these structures. Theories Lamin Koto Stone Circle (1.7km); Wassu (20km); Kuntaur (22km) When leaving Georgetown, take a local suggest they were farmers because all the 14 1 pick-up to the southern ferry, and cross over sites are near rivers; but some are buried 6 5 to the southern bank. You may find a direct with spears, suggesting they were hunters. 15 Gambia River 11 minibus to Basse Santa Su for D10. Alterna- The caretaker will show you to a small 16 tively, take a local minibus or bush taxi to but well-presented museum with exhibits 12 4 Bansang (D5) and change here for transport discussing the possible origins of the circles. 7 to Basse Santa Su (D5). If you re heading It has to be said that not everyone will find Market west, go to Bansang or just to the main road. them a major attraction. Go if you want to From there you can get to Soma, then change see evidence of ancient African cultures, but To Armitage High School (300m); for Banjul and other destinations. not if you re expecting Stonehenge. Bird Safari 2 Camp (2.5km) WASSU STONE CIRCLES Getting There & Away 10 INFORMATION The area between the Gambia River and the The stone circles are about 500m before the Internet Caf�...............................1 D3 Saloum River in southern Senegal is noted village of Wassu, coming from Georgetown. 13 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES for its concentration of stone circles; the In theory Wassu can be reached from Fara- Bird Safari Camp Office................2 C3 8 group at Wassu, 20km by road northwest of fenni, but transport can be hard to come Central River Division Forestry 3 Project.....................................3 C3 EATING Georgetown and about 2km north of Kun- by; most people come from Georgetown. A Commissioner's Quarters.............4 A1 Talamanca Restaurant................ B1 11 taur, is a particularly good example. bush taxi to Wassu (D25) waits most morn- Late-Victorian Warehouse............5 A1 Yaa Olly's Restaurant................. B1 12 Late-Victorian Warehouse 1 There are several circles (admission D30) each ings at the north-bank ferry ramp, but this ( Slave House )........................6 A1 DRINKING 3 consisting of between 10 and 24 reddish- goes only when full (which can take several Monument to Fort George...........7 A2 Maradona Roadside Pub............13 C2 2 brown, massive stones, 1m to 2.5m high and hours), and even if you reach Wassu in time Water SLEEPING TRANSPORT Tower weighing several tonnes. Most of the region s there might be nothing coming back. Bush Alaka-bung Lodge.......................8 C3 Car Ferry to North Bank.............14 A1 9 Baobolong Camp.........................9 D3 Passenger Ferry to North Bank.... B1 15 To Southern circles date from AD 500 to AD 1000, be- taxis are only an option on Monday, the day Dreambird Camp.......................10 C2 Taxis to Southern Ferry Pier........ B1 16 Ferry Pier (2km) fore the Mandinka people migrated to this of Wassu s colourful lumo, when they are area. Excavations have unearthed human more frequent. Otherwise it s safer to hire spend the evening. It s an old favourite with who s so keen he ll open after hours if hun- bones and artefacts at the centre of many a private taxi for the day (around D700), or travellers and belongs to the Gambia River gry guests knock on his door. He also seems circles, indicating that they were burial sites, jump on a tour with a Georgetown camp. Experience  naturally, there s an enticing to be growing his humble restaurant into a range of boat trips on offer.  hotel , having added a low-key, mosquito THE CENTRAL RIVER DIVISION FORESTRY PROJECT Dreambird Camp (%/fax [phone]; r per person D200) net fitted bungalow. Inquire about rates. This is mainly the embarkation point for the There are a couple of cheap eateries Deforestation is one of the greatest environmental dangers in Gambia, so it s encouraging to hear transfer boat to Jangjang-bureh Camp (free around the market, as well as the following: of the initiatives of the Central River Division Forestry Project (CRDFP; %5676198; www.crdfp.org). to guests and diners). It also has a few rooms, Maradona Roadside Pub (Owens St; snacks from D75; This inspiring environmental programme has been active in educating the local population about but these had collapsed when we visited. It the importance of keeping forests intact, and has in the process created a series of excellent ecotrails hlunch & dinner) Opposite Alaka-bung Lodge; a good was hard to tell whether they would be open place for snacks. Has a cheap bar. through the remaining woods of central and eastern Gambia. One of these leads through the tiny again soon; no-one seemed inclined to make Yaa Olly s Restaurant (Findlay St; meals D100-150; Dobo Forest Park, a 34.5-hectare gallery forest that winds along the north bank of the Gambia River, any specific statements  not a good sign& not far from Bansang, and boasts an array of wildlife, including crocodiles, antelopes, bushbucks, hlunch & dinner) An unpretentious address for cheap Alaka-bung Lodge (%5676123; alakabung@qanet local meals. hippos and bushbabies, as well as various bird species such as eagles, kingfishers, bee-eaters, rollers .gm; Owens St; r per person D100) This low-key hostel, and woodpeckers. Georgetown s cheap and cheerful option, Getting There & Away The Kunkilling Forest Park on the south bank near Bansang is a much larger affair, and can attracts a local clientele and has email access Ferries reach MacCarthy Island from either either be walked through or explored by donkey cart. Its 200 hectares of riparian canopy forest are (but not always reliable generator power). the southern or northern bank of the river. jointly managed by four neighbouring villages. Four ecotrails wind through rich woodlands (where The northern ferry operates from 8am to more than 40 types of trees have been counted) inhabited by more than 185 bird species (among Eating & Drinking 7pm. The ferry connecting the island to them African finfoots, white-backed vultures, adamawa turtle doves, shining-blue kingfishers and Few options exist outside the camps and the southern shore seems to run until de- nightjars), monkeys, manatees and hippos. A guided visit will also take a brief historical detour, lodges, especially after dark, when George- mand dries up. We crossed onto the island past the tomb of the 19th-century king of Fouladou, Musa Molo. town drowns in darkness and life retreats at 11pm, while other travellers report the The CRDFP in Georgetown arranges highly recommended guided tours to these parks. And if a behind compound walls. service inoperative after 6pm. Best to get one-day exploration isn t enough for you, you can stay in one of the CRDFP s well-equipped rooms, Talamanca Restaurant (%9921100; Findlay St, there early. The main road between Banjul and get more deeply involved in their preservation work. (The CRDFP is funded by GTZ and KfW. meals from D100; h11am-8pm) A relaxed spot run and Basse Santa Su does not go directly past The DFS is the commissioned consultancy company for implementing the project.) by the enterprising young Banna Kongira, the southern ferry ramp, but bush taxis turn C E N T R A L & E A S T E R N G A M B I A GAMBIA CENTRAL & EASTERN Car Ferry Passenger Ferry Findlay St Boat to Jangjang-bureh Camp (1km) Owens St ercer St M Jackson St Queen St Owens St Ingram St 138 EASTERN GAMBIA " " River Gambia National Park www.lonelyplanet.com EASTERN GAMBIA " " Basse Santa Su 139 crocs and hippos too, plus an excellent area transport hub. It s a traditional trading BASSE SANTA SU HIGHLY STRUNG HIPPOS 0 200 m selection of birds. And if you do happen to centre, as crammed, busy, run-down and 0 0.1 miles The best time to see hippos is at low tide, see any chimps  while keeping a responsible enterprising as any West African junction A B 8 when the shallower water cannot hide distance  it will be a bonus. town, especially if you come on a Thursday, INFORMATION them so well. If you see a hippo, admire when the market is in full swing. To Yarobawal (10km); Gamtel Office....................1 A3 Sutokoba (22km) it from afar. These giants of the river are Getting There & Away Both Trust Bank (%5668907; fax: [phone]) and, 1 Standard Chartered Bank...2 A3 Trust Bank.........................3 A3 notoriously cantankerous creatures. Forget You can take a boat tour from Georgetown; opposite, Standard Chartered Bank (%4668218) lions, leopards and snakes  hippos are several camps there have boats for hire at are in the town centre, on the road to George- SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Market..............................4 A3 responsible for more deaths in Africa than D1000 per day. Alternatively, you can go to town. They have branches in Basse that can Traditions...........................5 B2 any other animal. Despite being vegetarian, Kuntaur by road and hire a boat from there. advance money to Visa cardholders. You 14 SLEEPING they frequently kill animals and people with Several people provide the service; the going can make calls at the Gamtel Office (%4229999; 5 Apollo Hotel......................6 A3 their enormous jaws and 60cm-long teeth  rate is about D250 for a three- or four-hour [e-mail]), opposite the post office, Basse Guesthouse..............7 B3 Fulladu Camp..................... B1 8 not to eat them, but to protect their living trip (after some bargaining). Boats are only and possibly connect to the Internet, too, by Jem Hotel..........................9 B4 space. Hippos are very territorial and short- permitted on the main channel between the the time you visit. Plaza Hotel.......................10 B3 2 sighted, and will plough into anything they islands and the east bank of the mainland, consider a threat, including, unfortunately, and are not allowed to approach the islands Sights & Activities the occasional boat with camera-wielding nearer than midstream. Boatmen often try Most of Basse can be explored in an afternoon tourists. Keep a respectful distance and, to please their passengers by getting closer, stroll, which should definitely include the Dry Market 13 naturally, don t try to feed them by throwing but this should be discouraged. town s bustling market and a walk along the food towards their chomping jaws. waterfront. Heading for the ferry terminal, MUNGO PARK MEMORIAL you ll see an imposing colonial warehouse 7 Historians may want to head for Karantaba on the riverside. A couple converted this 10 RIVER GAMBIA NATIONAL PARK Tenda, about 20km east of Georgetown. building several years ago into the cul- 4 12 3 South of Kuntaur, five islands in the Gam- Near this village, on the river bank, is the tural centre and caf� Traditions (%5668533; 11 To Georgetown bia River are protected as a national park. memorial pillar marking where the Scottish [e-mail]; h9am-6pm). (65km); 1 Soma (192km); Its heart is so-called Baboon Island  the explorer Mungo Park set off into the interior They exhibited and sold locally fabricated Banjul (375km) 2 name is sometimes used to refer to the to trace the course of the Niger River. crafts including handmade clothes, mats 6 3 entire park  the site of a project (privately A bush taxi comes here most mornings and wall hangings, sewn from beautiful in- initiated but now government-owned) that from the north-bank ferry ramp opposite digo, tie-dyed and mud-dyed cloth. Since takes chimpanzees captured by illegal trad- Georgetown but if your time is limited, hir- they have left, the place has started gather- ers and rehabilitates them to live in the ing a private taxi may be the only certain ing dust; the caf� as well as the display wild. Boat trips are available, but visitors way of getting there and back in a day spaces were neglected when we visited. But DRINKING 4 are not allowed to land or get close to the (around D250). The pillar is outside the vil- the staff is still immensely enthusiastic and Kassoumai Bar..................11 B3 Plaza Nightclub................12 A3 islands. This is partly because it interferes lage, but local boys will guide you there for optimistic that this major stopping point of To Sabi (7km); V�lingara (20km) with the rehabilitation process, but mainly a small fee. Another option is to go by boat. any tour to Basse will shine once again. TRANSPORT Tambacounda (125km); Bush-Taxi Garage............13 A2 because the chimps (there are more than You can hire one for the day from places in Even if you find Traditions devoid of Lab� (Guinea) Ferry................................14 B2 9 (360km) 60) are nervous about humans getting too Georgetown from about D1000. activity, a trip here is rewarding. The bal- close. While females and young ones may cony gives a great view across the river be docile, the males can be quick to attack. BANSANG and ferry station, and, between June and Sleeping & Eating Having lost their fear of people, they are Music-lovers may know Bansang as the mid- February, it s also one of the best places in Staying the night in Basse can feel like a pun- more aggressive than  wild chimps and, dle name of one of Gambia s greatest kora Gambia to see the Egyptian plover, a rare ishment if you re not used to roughing it a being several times stronger than humans, players  Amadu Bansang Jobarteh hails species, known locally as the crocodile bird. bit. Places that were once acceptable are now they re capable of awesome deeds when from here. A pilgrimage to his birthplace This small wader might be missed when barely inhabitable  the end of the national riled. If they are not able to get at the ob- will introduce you to a large town spread standing quietly on the riverbank, but it is bus service has meant that Basse has been ject of their frustration, they will often vent out between the river and the main road. It s instantly recognised in flight by its swept- almost totally deserted by tourists. their spleen on the females and youngsters a calm area that invites walking, particularly back wings and beautiful black-and-white Fulladu Camp (%5668743; r per person D300) On of their own troop. Because of the dense if you re a keen bird-watcher  spectacu- markings. the north bank of the Gambia River this is cloak of gallery forest on the banks of the lar red-throated bee-eaters nest in a nearby Boat rides to see this and other birds (with undoubtedly the best place to stay. It sits island, it is difficult to see chimps, and get- quarry. And, quite importantly, Bansang a chance of spotting hippos or crocodiles) about 100m from the ferry landing on a large ting in close might result in your boat being also has the largest upcountry hospital. can be arranged with local boatmen on the terrain and has accommodation in comfort- boarded by a bristling alpha male. waterfront, but rates are fiercely negotiable. able bungalows. The management organises If you visit the area, it s best to go with BASSE SANTA SU Expect to pay about D300 an hour for a pirogue trips (prices negotiable) and shuttles the aim of having a good day out on this Set on a beautiful waterfront, Gambia s east- motorboat (although a lot depends on how you across the river if you call in advance. beautiful stretch of river. You ll quite likely ernmost main town is the last major ferry- much time the engine is actually running) The restaurant here regularly gets good re- see baboons and monkeys, and possibly crossing point on the Gambia River and an or less for a paddled canoe. views, and is the best bet for eating in town. C E N T R A L & E A S T E R N G A M B I A GAMBIA CENTRAL & EASTERN Gambia River � Lonely Planet Publications 140 EASTERN GAMBIA " " Basse Santa Su www.lonelyplanet.com 141 MUNGO PARK By the end of the 18th century, the incentive for exploring the interior of West Africa had switched from being commercial to  scientific (and evangelical  to convert  heathens to Christianity). Scientific exploration was based on solving two main puzzles: the position of Timbuktu (the mysterious  city of gold ) and the route of the Niger River. Although the Niger s existence was well known, its source and mouth, and even the direction of its flow, were a mystery. In 1795 the London-based Association for Promoting the Discovery of the Interior Parts of Africa sent a young Scotsman called Mungo Park to the Gambia River. Park followed the river upstream by boat, sailing between British trading stations. He based himself near present-day Georgetown, where he learnt several local languages, and then set off across the plains, with just two servants and three donkeys. He travelled northeast, crossing the Senegal River, getting captured and escaping, and eventually reached the Niger at S�gou, confirming that it flowed in a northerly direction. After more adventures and incredible hardships, he eventually managed to return to the Gambia River and to Britain, where he wrote Travels in the Interior of Africa. In 1801 Park returned to the Gambia River and again set out for the Niger. This time he took a larger support crew, although most of the men were army deserters and completely unprepared for the rigours of the expedition. By the time the group reached the Niger River, many had died, and even more perished either from disease or attacks by local people as they took a boat downstream. Park and the few remaining members of his party all died under attack at the Bussa Rapids, in the east of present-day Nigeria. � Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally Jem Hotel (%5668356; s/d D300/600) When we Drinking & Entertainment visited, the manager of this place off the The Jem Hotel nightclub promises  London restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes road to V�lingara was a boy who s been in sounds , but the manager admitted that the only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to charge since his father s death and is doing sign was old. Still, it gets busy with young- everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying a good job, though running this hotel- sters bopping to reggae, hip-hop and African restaurant-nightclub is clearly tough. It s music on occasional weekends. The Kas- the above -  Do the right thing with our content. still one of the cleaner Basse options and soumai Bar opposite the market used to be the restaurant (open for lunch and dinner a busy weekend spot; it s still active, though with meals around D100 to D150) is a the quality has since declined. The Plaza bright spot. Phone in advance for meals. Nightclub near the market gets packed on Basse Guesthouse (%5668283; r D150) Has weekends. Otherwise it s back to the street dingy rooms with shared toilets, but you meat stalls, beer in hand, where you can can spend hours people-watching from the count on the company of locals. 1st-floor balcony above a tailor shop. The Apollo Hotel (%57000852; r D100), west Getting There & Away of the market, and Plaza Hotel (r D100), east Bush taxis go to the eastern outpost of Fatoto of Basse Guesthouse, are run (and largely (D20, 40 minutes), the ferry ramp for George- inhabited) by young men. Neither place is town (D75, one hour); Soma (D150, four ideal for women; they re equally shoddy. hours) and Serekunda (D300, eight hours). Traditions (%5668533; r D250) can dust off the The ferry to the Gambia River s northern apartment of the former manager for unex- bank takes one car at a time, and the journey pected visitors (D250). It also serves food; is quick. The charge for a car is D50; passen- announce your eating plans in advance. gers are D5. There are smaller boats taking The state of hotels apart from those passengers across; the fare is D10. mentioned often indicates the standard of If you re heading for Senegal, you can go restaurants. You guessed it, there aren t by bush taxi to Tambacounda via V�lingara. many options in Basse. For local meals, If your horizons are even further afield a you re pretty well served at the chop shops sept-place taxi goes more or less daily (pas- around the taxi park. If you arrive late at sengers depending) to Lab� in northern night they might be closed, and you ll be Guinea. The fare is CFA30,000 and the trip grateful for the roast-meat stalls that line takes at least 24 hours (or longer if there are the main road west of the market. delays at roadblocks). C E N T R A L & E A S T E R N G A M B I A GAMBIA CENTRAL & EASTERN