ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS
DOWNLOADABLE
®
http://www.woodonline.com
If you re the
type of person
who spends the
lion s share of
your leisure
time gardening
and otherwise
tending your
yard, you ll
appreciate this
project. Made of
long-lasting
cedar, this back
yard classic will
gracefully
accent your sur-
roundings and
serve as a com-
fortable place to
contemplate the
joys of your gar-
dening chores.
Gardener s Retreat
A strikingly good-looking arbor with a built-in bench
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DP-00050 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 1997
SPREADER DETAIL
EXPLODED VIEW
1
/8" round-over
D
3
/32" pilot hole
E
1
/8" round-overs
1
/8" round-
3
all edges /32" pilot hole
overs 1 #8 x 2" F.H.
/8" round-overs
15
/16" deep
wood screw
all edges
#16 x 3/4"
A
L
escutcheon pin
D
#16 x 5/8"
K
A
escutcheon pins
A
D
A
#8 x 2" F.H.
wood screw
1
/16" round-
D
#8 x 13/4" F.H.
overs on
wood screw
#16 x 3/4"
all edges
escutcheon pin
Finger
29"
joints
#16 x 5/8"
E
escutcheon pin
B
1 J
/8" round- I
overs
B
B
585/16"
K
C
451/2" G
F
G
F
L
H #8 x 2" F.H.
5
/32" shank hole,
wood screws
countersunk
F #8 x 11/4" F.H.
wood screw
C
1
/2" round-over
4"
11/2"
4"
4"
11/2"
#8 x 21/2" F.H.
11/2"
wood screw
11/2"
Bill of Materials
* Initially cut parts marked with an *
oversized. Trim to finished size
Finished Size Finished Size
according to the instructions.
Part Part
T
T W L W L
Material Key: C cedar.
SEATS
ARCHES
Supplies: #8× 19 ", #8× 1! ", #8× 2",
A* arch
F* supports 1 " 3fi" 21fl" C 3
#8× 2fi" flathead wood screws
segments 1 " 5fi" 20Ç" C 8
(preferably stainless steel), #16× fl"
G backrests 1 " 3" 20fi" C 3
B* arch
brass escutcheon pins, #16× ! "
uprights 1 " 3fi" 58Ç" C 4
brass escutcheon pins, clear exterior
H front rail 1 " 3fi" 41" C 1
finish.
SPREADERS
I top rail 1 " 3fi" 41" C 1
Buying Guide
C seat
spreaders 1fi" 59 " 29" C 2 Finger-joint bit. Carbide-tipped
J slats ! " 1: " 41" C 24
cutters with fi" shank. Will cut fin-
D spreaders 1fi" 1fi" 29" C 9
LATTICE
ger joints in stock from fi" to 19 "
thick. Bit no. 7861, $55 ppd. (con-
K vertical
E cleats fi" fi" 29" C 2
members : " 1fi" 45fi" C 12 tiguous U.S.). MLCS, P.O. Box
4053, Rydall, PA 19046. Or call
L horizontal
800/533-9298 to order.
members : " 1fi" 29" C 18
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Matl.
Qty.
Matl.
Qty.
Fit your table-mounted router with
3a finger-joint bit. See the how-to
article on this handy bit on page 7 and
8. Then, rout finger joints across the
miter-cut ends of the arch-top seg-
ments and across the top ends of the
uprights (B). (We cut 1 "-thick scrap
stock first to verify the settings.)
Crosscut the uprights to final length.
Clamp a board measuring approxi-
4 mately ! × 4× 72" to one edge of your
workbench, where shown in Photo A.
Now, dry-clamp four arch-top segments
together in the configuration shown in
the drawing Laying Out the Arch Top
on page 5. (For photo clarity, we stained
the boards used to align the segments for
clamping.) Check the fit. Remember, if
you trim these four segments, you ll need
to do the same for the remaining four to
keep both arch tops the same
exact shape.
Below: After sanding the glued-together finger
joints smooth, use a trammel to mark a pair of
arcs on one face of each arched top.
Above: Check the fit, then glue and clamp
the arch-top segments together. Long clamps
and clamping boards come in handy to pull
the joints tight.
Let s begin by with
L
e
t

s
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b
y
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i
t
h
a pair of arches
a
p
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a
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h
e
s
From 1 " stock, cut the arch-top seg-
1ments (A) and arch uprights (B) to the
sizes listed in the Bill of Materials plus 1"
in length. (We cut our pieces from 1 "-
thick cedar deck boards. If your stock is
thicker, you ll need to plane it to 1 "
thick to work with a finger-joint router
bit. Redwood, mahogany, white oak, or
teak would also work well for this pro-
ject. We also recommend cutting a cou-
ple extra arch-top segments. They ll
come in handy when testing the finger-
joint bit setup in Step 3.)
Using the Arch-Top Segment drawing
2for reference, miter-cut the arch-top
segments (A) to length. (We test-cut scrap
stock first to verify an accurate 22.5°
miter-cut.)
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Clamp a piece of the scrap to the
8top surface of your bandsaw
table. Position and clamp the scrap
to the bandsaw table so the bandsaw
blade aligns with the inside marked
arc on the arch blank, as shown in
Photo D below.
Now, as shown in Photo E, slowly
9feed the blank into the blade, hold-
ing the top arched edge against the
curved scrap piece. Keep these two
pieces flush while cutting the entire
bottom edge of the blank. Finally, sand
the bottom edge of the blank smooth.
Using a pair of sawhorses with
10extra-long tops, glue and
clamp the uprights to the arch tops,
as shown in Photo F.
Sand the arches, and clamp
11them together surface-to-surface
with the edges flush. Mark the hole
centerpoints on the arch where
dimensioned on the Arch drawing.
Drill a ¸" shank hole through both
arches at each mark. Separate the arch-
es and countersink the shank holes on
the front side of the front arch and on
the back side of the rear arch.
Glue and clamp the segments
5together, as shown in Photo A.
Place waxed paper between your
workbench and the segments at each
glue joint to prevent the arch top
from being glued to your work-
bench. Wipe off the excess glue with
a damp cloth.
After the glue has dried (we used
6Titebond II and left the arch-top
pieces clamped up overnight), sand
the joints smooth. Use a trammel to
mark two arcs on the clamped-
together arch top as dimensioned on
the Laying Out the Arch Top drawing
and shown in Photo B. Repeat the
process in steps 4, 5, and 6 to form
and mark the second arch top.
Bandsaw or jigsaw the arches'
7top to shape, as shown in Photo
C. Save at least one section of scrap

you ll use it later. Now, carefully sand
to the line with a disc sander or
portable belt sander to finish forming
the top of the arc.
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LAYING OUT
THE ARCH TOP
A A
Finger joints
R=24"
A A
R=20fi"
24"
3fi"
529 "
20Ç"
A
Rout a Å„" round-over along all
5fi"
12edges (except for the bottom
ends) of each arch.
Add the spreaders
A
d
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h
e
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p
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r
s
Finger joints
Cut the spreaders (C, D) and
22.5° 22.5°
1cleats (E) to size.
Glue and clamp the cleats (E) to
2the bottom side of two of the
ARCH-TOP SEGMENT
spreaders (D), where shown on the
Spreader detail accompanying the
Exploded View drawing on page 2.
Rout Å„" round-overs along all
3edges of the spreaders and com-
bination spreader/cleats.
Mark centerpoints on the ends of
332"
4each spreader (D). Drill a D
pilot hole at each marked point.
Using exterior screws (we used stain-
less steel), screw the spreaders (C, D)
between the arches (A, B).
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Next, add a contoured seat for
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them 9 " apart where shown on the Apply a quality exterior finish to
comfortable sitting
c
o
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n
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Side Section View drawing. (When 2the entire project. (We brushed
To form the seat supports (F), cut adding the slats, we started at the top on Flood CWF-UV Clear Wood Finish.
1three pieces of 1 " stock to 3fi" of the backrest pieces and worked We also placed a small amount of fin-
wide by 22Å„" long. Then, cut the down, and started at the front of the ish in pie tins, and put one under
backrests (G) to the size listed in the seat supports and worked to the back.) each upright. This allowed the finish
Bill of Materials on page 2. Screw the seat assembly in place to slowly wick into the end-grain
Transfer the full-size seat support 6between the arches. upright ends to enhance the rot resis-
2pattern onto the seat supports tance of the wood.) ż
And, now for the
A
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(F). Cut them to shape. Using the
The purchase of these plans does
lattice sides
l
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e
s
Forming the Seat Backrests and
not transfer any copyright or other
Forming the Seat Supports drawings, Joint one edge of a 2× 6, then rip
ownership interest in the plans, the
machine the supports and backrests 1: × 1fi" strips from the stock for
design, or the finished project to the
to fit in the configuration shown on lattice pieces (K, L). Next, rout  " buyer. Buyer may neither reproduce
the plans for sale nor offer for sale
the Joint detail accompanying the round-overs along all edges of each
any copies of the finished project.
drawings on page 12. strip.
Glue and clamp the three sup- Use two Ks and two Ls to form
Written by Marlen Kemmet
3ports (F, G) together. 2the perimeter framework to fit Project Design: Jerry Tedrow
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
Cut the front rail (H) and top rail between the uprights (B). Glue and
Photographs: Dean Tanner; Hetherington
4(I) to size. Bevel-rip the front nail these four pieces together. Photography
Graphic Design: Lorna Johnson
edge of the top rail at 15°. Referring Repeat for the other side of the
©Copyright Meredith Corporation 1997
to the Exploded View and Side arbor.
Section View drawings, rout Å„" Cut a scrap piece of stock 4"
round-overs, drill the mounting 3wide by about 45" long. Use this
holes, and screw the rails to the seat as a spacer to position the Ls on the
supports (F/G) where shown on the framework when gluing and nailing
Exploded View and Side Section them in place. Repeat with the Ks.
View drawings. Glue and nail the lattice assem-
Cut the seat slats (J) to size. Rout 4blies to the arbor.
5Å„" round-overs along the top
Sand the surfaces, and
S
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,
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edges of each. Then, rout a
add the finish
a
d
d
t
h
e
f
i
n
i
s
h
fi" round-over on the slat you ll use
across the front of the seat. Drill the Check all surfaces, and sand
mounting holes, and screw the slats 1where necessary. Below: Sawhorses come in handy when
to the seat framework (F-I), spacing gluing and clamping the uprights to the
previously assembled arched top.
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Finger-joint bits
These bits help you
Set the finger-joint bit upright
and rotate it so the cutting edge
make super-strong
1
with the highest finger faces you.
joints, but setting one
With a permanent, felt-tip pen, mark
up properly can prove
the third finger down on the side fac-
tricky. So, we ve come
ing you, as shown in the drawing at
up with a method that
right. This will be your reference fin-
ensures your success
ger for the following steps.
time after time.
Mark a centerline along the edge
of a scrap piece of stock of the
same thickness as your work-
2
Advantages of and piece. With the bit in your router
A
d
v
a
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t
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s
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a
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d
uses for a finger-joint bit table, adjust its height so the point of
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-
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It s usually a simple matter to glue the reference finger aligns with the
edge or face surfaces together, but centerline, as shown at right.
gluing boards end-to-end is another
matter. That s because the hollow With the router unplugged,
fibers of end grain work like straws to rotate the bit by hand to the
3
draw adhesive away from a joint. And, point where it makes the deepest
the ends of these  straws provide possible cut into the workpiece.
little surface area for the glue to Then, use a straightedge to align the
adhere to. Fortunately, a finger-joint fence flush with the innermost cut-
bit solves both of these problems by ting edge of the fingers (the  web of
exposing face grain and greatly the fingers, so to speak). Also, the
increasing the surface area of the joint. fence should be parallel to your
With one of these bits you can make router table s miter-gauge slot.
good use of your scrap stock by end-
joining short pieces to make longer Test the fence position by mak-
ones. But, because the edge-grain ing a test cut into the edge grain
view of a finger joint can be less than 4of your scrap stock. If the fin-
appealing, we suggest you use it only gers that you just cut into the work-
for project pieces that will be painted. piece do not contact the exit side of
Some outdoor projects, such as the the fence, you need to decrease the
garden arbor, look okay with clear- depth of the cut by bringing the fence
finished finger joints. forward. If the workpiece fingers con-
tact the fence, but are not smooth and
A 7-step process rounded on their ends, you need to
A
7
-
s
t
e
p
p
r
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s
s
for great results increase the cutting depth. Do this by
f
o
r
g
r
e
a
t
r
e
s
u
l
t
s
You can buy several types of finger- adjusting the fence back.
joint bits, including those with Cut the edges of two pieces of scrap
variable-spaced cutters and bearings. stock, flip one piece over, and place
For this article we ll show you how together the finger-jointed edges. The
to use a no-frills version like the one faces should align flush. If they don t,
shown above a one-piece cutter you will need to adjust the bit s
without a bearing. With this eight- height up or down by fi of the mis-
finger bit you can finger-joint stock alignment between the faces of the
up to 1 " thick in one pass. scrap stock.
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Cut the edges of two pieces of
scrap stock, flip one piece over,
5
and place together the finger-
jointed edges. The faces should align
flush. If they don t, you will need to
adjust the bit s height up or down by
fi of the misalignment between the
faces of the scrap stock.
In the example right, the faces are
misaligned by about  ". So, we low-
ered the bit Î". On the other hand, if
the piece on the right side of the illus-
tration was too high by  ", we
These faces up during cut. Left piece too high.
would raise the bit Î".
Now, you re ready to cut your
actual workpieces. First, attach
an auxiliary wooden face to
6
your miter gauge. The end of the face
should contact the router-table fence
Fence
without preventing you from pushing
the miter gauge smoothly through its
complete travel.
Place one edge of a workpiece
against the auxiliary face, butt the end
Auxiliary miter-gauge fence
of the workpiece against the router-
table fence, and make a cut by slowly
Workpiece
but steadily pushing the miter gauge
forward. (The face side of the work-
piece can be up or down.) The auxil-
iary face backs up the workpiece to
prevent edge-grain chipping on the
exit end of the cut.
To cut the other end, flip the work-
piece end for end and repeat the pro-
cedure described above. Do not sim-
ply rotate the piece and keep its same Apply glue to the finger-jointed
face down for the second cut. By flip- ends by running a thin bead of
7
ping the workpiece, you ensure that woodworker s glue between
the face sides of your workpieces will each finger. Work the glue into the
be on the same side of your complet- fingers, as shown at left so it covers all
ed assembly. surfaces.
Apply glue to the finger-jointed ends It does not pay to apply glue to both
by running a thin bead of woodwork- surfaces of a finger joint. This just cre-
er s glue between each finger. Work ates excessive glue squeeze-out.
the glue into the fingers as shown at After applying the glue, join the two
left so it covers all surfaces. workpieces and rub them back and
It does not pay to apply glue to both forth to ensure that all surfaces of the
surfaces of a finger joint. This just cre- joint receive glue.
ates excessive glue squeeze-out. If your longest clamps aren t long
After applying the glue, join the two enough for your longest workpieces,
workpieces and rub them back and or part of your assembly is curved,
forth to ensure that all surfaces of the try the clamping arrangement on
joint receive glue. page 6.ż
Written by Bill Krier with Chuck I. Hedlund Illustrations: Kim Downing
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8Ø"
8Ø"
8Ø"
8Ø"
A A
8Ø"
8Ø"
8Ø" 8Ø"
A A
¸" shank holes,
countersunk
1! "
ARCH
B B
58" to joint line and
screw hole is
B
58Ç" long
1R
"
1R
"
! "
12fi"
41"
3fi" 3fi"
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CUTTING DIAGRAM
A A A A
11/16 x 51/2 x 96" Cedar (2 needed)
F
B
11/16 x 31/2 x 96" Cedar (3 needed)
B G
11/16 x 31/2 x 96" Cedar
C C D
11/2 x 51/2 x 96" Cedar (2x6)
E
L
D D
11/2 x 51/2 x 96" Cedar (2x6)
H
G G
11/16 x 31/2 x 96" Cedar
I
11/16 x 31/2 x 48" Cedar
J J
3
/4 x 51/2 x 96" Cedar (4 needed)
L L
11/2 x 51/2 x 96" Cedar (2x6)
K K
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D
A A
D
A A
D
D
E
K K K K
L
B B
L
SLAT DETAIL
Front edge
#8 x 13/4"
of part
F.H. wood B I
L
screw bevel-ripped
at 15o
1
I
/8" round-
over
#8 x 11/4"
F.H. wood
screw
G
J
I
J
1
/8" round-overs
on top edges
G
1
/4" gaps
1
/2" round-over
1
/4" gaps
C
51/4" 1
/8" round-
1
/2"
F
over
215/8"
H
49/16"
11/16"
113/4"
11/16"
29"
SIDE SECTION VIEW
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FORMING THE SEAT BACKRESTS
15/8"
3
/4" dado blade raised
5
/16" above table
201/2"
(Test scrap first to
15o
verify a tight fit in the
mortise in .)
F
G
Fence
3"
Miter-gauge
extension
First cuts
Miter gauge set
15o
15o from square
G
15/8"
90o
G
Second cut
G
G
Cut rabbets across bottom end as shown at right.
5
/16"
7
/16"
7
/16"
5
/16"
31/4"
F
FORMING THE SEAT SUPPORTS
JOINT DETAIL
221/8"
31/2"
F
CUTTING THE MORTISE
Second cut
First cut
15
/16"
F
215/8"
31/4"
F
Fence
7
/16"-wide
mortise
31/4"
15o
7
/16"-wide
mortise
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To ensure full-size patterns are correct
size, your printer should be set to print
at 100% (not fit to page). Measure
full-size patterns to verify size.
fi 1"
9 !
FULL-SIZE
PATTERN
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Join patterns here.
J
SUPPORT
F
J
J
1
/
8
" round-overs
J
FRONT RAIL
H
J
1
/
2
" round-over
fi 1"
9 !
FULL-SIZE
PATTERNS
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Join patterns here.
J
of the two outside seat supports
countersunk on inside face
5
/
32
" shank hole,
J
J
J
J
Join patterns here.
J
Join patterns here.
J
fi 1"
9 !
I J
TOP RAIL
J
J
J
G
BACKREST
FULL-SIZE
J
PATTERN
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Join patterns here.
J
J
J
FULL-SIZE
G
G
BACKREST
BACKREST
PATTERN
J
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Join patterns here.
Join patterns here.
J
J
G
J
BACKREST
FULL-SIZE
PATTERN
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Join patterns here.
®
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