from
Woodsmith
MAGAZINE
OAK BOOKCASE
OAK BOOKCASE
Assembled with frames and panels, this bookcase is a strong and
beautiful place to hold a growing home library.
lthough a bookcase doesn t and grooves. Then the three frame SHELF REINFORCEMENT. There s
have to be fancy to do its job, it units are joined together with rabbets one other thing that I did to add
Aought to get more respect than and grooves. strength to this bookcase.
the old  boards and bricks approach. Next, stopped sliding dovetail joints Over time, shelves filled with books
This bookcase not only looks great, but hold the apron that spans between the can start to droop like a swaybacked
it s strong as well. side frames. horse.
One reason that it s so strong is that I The top and bottom are made from I don t think the shelf in this book-
3
built it from red oak. But there s / " oak plywood held within a mitered case ever will. That s because it s rein-
4
another reason that you can t see right frame. And the base pieces are con- forced with oak strips that run under the
away  the joinery. nected with yet another strong joint  a length of the shelf.
JOINERY. I used a variety of joints, splined miter. FINISH. Once all of the joints were
each one designed to add strength to a Finally, there s a bullnose edging cut and the project assembled, I fin-
different part of the project. strip added to the front of the 3/ " ply- ished it with two coats of Minwax Early
4
First, the sides and back are frames wood shelf with a classic tongue and American stain and then applied two
and panels assembled with stub tenons groove joint. coats of tung oil for protection.
Plans N O W
page 1 © 1998, August Home Publishing Co.
TOP FRONT EDGING
EXPLODED VIEW
K
TOP SIDE
EDGING
J
TOP PANEL
TABLE
L
TOP
FASTENER
SIDE TOP
RAIL
B
I
BACK TOP RAIL
APRON
F
BACK PANEL
H
SHELF
BACK STILE
S
E
SHELF
SUPPORT REINFORCING
PIN STRIP
SIDE STILE
A
T
BACK BOTTOM
RAIL SIDE
PANEL
G
D
#8 x 1!/2" Fh
WOODSCREW
BOTTOM PANEL
O
BOTTOM SIDE
EDGING
M
CLEAT
R
SIDE BOTTOM
RAIL
C
#8 x 1!/4" Fh
WOODSCREW
N
BOTTOM
FRONT EDGING
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
BASE FRONT
38W x 29H x 12D
P
BASE SIDE
Q
MATERIALS LIST
WOOD HARDBOARD
3 SPLINE
A Side Stiles (4) / x 2 - 241/
4 2
3
B Side Top Rails (2) / x 2 - 8
4
3
C Side Btm. Rails (2) / x 21/ - 8
4 2
1
D Side Panels (2) / ply - 8 x 21
4
CUTTING DIAGRAM
3
E Back Stiles (2) / x 2 - 241/
4 2
3
#/4 x 7!/4 - 96 (4.8 Bd. Ft.)
F Back Top Rail (1) / x 2 - 32
4
B
3 F
A A
G Back Btm. Rail (1) / x 21/ - 32
4 2
G C
E E I
1
H Back Panel (1) / ply - 32 x 21
4
#/4 x 5!/2 - 72 (2.8 Bd. Ft.)
3
I Apron (1) / x 2 - 351/
4 4
K J M
N
3
T T
J Top Side Edging (2) / x 13/ - 113/
4 4 4
3
K Top Frt. Edging (1) / x 13/ - 371/ #/4 x 7!/4 - 72 (3.6 Bd. Ft.)
4 4 2
3
P Q C B
L Top Panel (1) / ply - 10 x 341/
4 2
P Q
3
M Bot. Side Edging (2) / x 13/ - 12 T
4 4
3
N Bot. Frt. Edging (1) / x 13/ - 38
4 4 1/4
#/4 PLYWOOD 48 X 48 #/4 PLYWOOD 48 X 48
3
O Bottom Panel (1) / ply - 101/ x 35
4 4
3
D
P Base Frt./Back (2) / x 3 - 371/
4 2 O
3
Q Base Sides (2) / x 3 - 113/
4 4
D
3
R Cleats (3) / ply x 2 - 11
4
3 L H
S Shelf (1) / ply x 91/ - 343/
4 4 8
3
T Reinforc. Strips (3) / x 1 - 343/
4 8
S
HARDWARE SUPPLIES
R R R
(6) Table top fasteners with 3/ " Rh screws
4
(4) Pin style shelf supports
GRAIN DIRECTION
GRAIN DIRECTION
(6) No. 8 x 11/ " Fh woodscrews
2
(9) No. 8 x 11/ " Fh woodscrews
4
Plans N O W
page 2 © 1998, August Home Publishing Co.
the inside edge of all the frame pieces. set of grooves is cut to join the back
FRAMES
1
(These grooves accept / " hardwood frame to the side frames. These grooves
4
I started construction by making the plywood which is usually thinner than are cut on the inside face of the side
1
two side frames and the back frame. / ." So cut the grooves to fit the actual frame s rear stiles (A); see Fig. 4.
4
Begin by ripping all the bottom rails thickness of the plywood.) It s important that these grooves be
(C and G) 21/ " wide; see Fig. 1. Then To cut the centered grooves, posi- positioned so the distance from the
2
adjust the fence to rip the top rails (B tion the fence so the blade is slightly off back edge of the stile to the far side of
and F) and stiles (A and E) 2" wide. center; see Fig. 2. Then cut a 1/ "-deep the groove is equal to the thickness of
2
Now cut the pieces to final length. kerf the length of the workpiece. Now the back frame s stile; see Fig. 4a.
EDGE GROOVES. After all the pieces flip it end-for-end and make a second STUB TENON. The tongues that con-
are cut to size, they re ready for the pass. This produces a centered groove. nect the ends of the rails to the stiles are
tongue and groove joints that hold them SIDE GROOVES. After cutting the actually stub tenons that fit into the
together. The grooves are centered on grooves on the inside edges, another panel grooves; see Fig. 3.
8
32
TOP RAIL
1 CUT STUB
7
31 TENONS TO
B
FIT GROOVES
2
2 TOP RAIL F
STILE
A
8
32
2
2 2
2
STILE
E
BACK
ALL GROOVES
24!/2
21
21 24!/2
FRAME
!/2" DEEP
SIDE
PANEL
CENTERED
FRAME
ON STOCK H
PANEL
D
PANELS CUT
FROM !/4"
PLYWOOD
BOTTOM
RAIL
2!/2
2!/2
BOTTOM RAIL G
C
STILES AND RAILS
CUT FROM
SIDE FRAME (2 REQ'D) BACK FRAME
#/4"STOCK
OPPOSITE
FIRST CUT
SEE FIG. 12
SIDE AGAINST
2 SLIGHTLY OFF 4
FOR GROOVE
FENCE FOR
CENTER
DETAIL
SECOND CUT
SIDE
FRAME
SEE DETAIL
FOR BACK
CORNER JOINT
BACK
!/2
ALL SHELF
FRAME
2
SUPPORT HOLES
!/4" DIA. !/2" DEEP
REPEAT PROCESS
TO WIDEN GROOVE
2
2
a.
BACK CORNER
CUT TENON TO
DETAIL
FIT GROOVE
3
2
!/4
TOP
2
RAIL
2
#/4 #/4
7!/2
2
%/8
!/4"
%/8
PLYWOOD !/4 BACK
FRAME
PANEL
SIDE
FRAME
GROOVE EQUALS
STILE THICKNESS OF
PANEL !/2" DEEP
CENTERED ON STOCK
Plans N O W
page 3 © 1998, August Home Publishing Co.
These stub tenons are cut by making
5 6
SHELF
multiple passes over the saw blade to
!/2
SUPPORT
leave a tongue that fits the groove.
PLYWOOD PANELS. After the stub
#/8
tenons are cut, dry-assemble the
!/2
frames and take measurements for the
SIDE
%/8
FRAME STOPPED DOVETAIL
plywood panels. Then cut the panels to
DETAIL
size making sure the grain runs the
height of the case; see Fig. 1.
SIDE
%/8
FRAME
BACK FRAME TONGUES. Before DRILL
1!/2
!/4" HOLE
gluing up the frames, I also cut the
INSIDE
tongues on the back frame stiles that FACE
INSIDE EDGE
FRONT
join the side frames; see Fig. 4a. OF STILE
EDGE
ASSEMBLE PANELS. Now each of the
three frame and panel assemblies can
be glued up. As I was gluing up the
7
frames, I glued the panels into the
a.
frame grooves for maximum stability.
%/8
CHAMFERS. After the assemblies
FENCE
dried, there are a few more steps to
FENCE
complete the three units. First, I routed #/8
1
/ "-wide decorative chamfers around
8
the inside edges of the stiles and rails;
see the tip box below.
SHELF HOLES. Next, drill holes for
the shelf pins that support the center
shelf; see Figs. 4 and 5.
STOP
LEFT
DOVETAIL GROOVES. The last step is
BLOCK !/2"
1!/2 SIDE
DOVETAIL
FRAME
to rout stopped dovetail grooves in the
BIT
side frames to accept a top apron (I).
(This apron spans the front of the case;
refer to Fig. 13 on page 5.) The grooves clamp a stop block to the left of the bit the opposite direction.
are located on the inside face of each on the router table; see Fig. 7. For the Shop Note: After making these cuts,
front stile; see Fig. 6. right frame, move the stop block to the don t change the setting on the bit. You
To rout the groove in the left frame, right of the bit and repeat the cut from need it to cut the dovetail tongues later.
Inside Chamfers
I
n
s
i
d
e
C
h
a
m
f
e
r
s
If a frame and panel are the chamfer a uniform dis- To make the chamfer, just form chamfer and stop
already assembled it s diffi- tance (3/ " in this case) from adjust the depth of cut. The the cut exactly 3/ " from the
4 4
cult to rout a chamfer on the the corners. guide will maintain a uni- corners; see Fig. 2.
frame because the panel
gets in the way of the pilot
LINE UP
a.
on the chamfering bit.
END OF
FLATHEAD GUIDE
To deal with this problem,
WOOD WITH
SCREWS CENTER
I used a  V-groove bit
OF BIT
instead. And to guide the
!/4"
V-GROOVE
GUIDE
HARDBOARD BASE
BIT
bit, I made an auxiliary base
!/4"
and special 11/ "-wide
2 HARDBOARD
BASE
guide from 1/ " hardboard;
4
ROUTING
EQUAL
see Fig. 1.
DIRECTION
DISTANCE
The primary function of
GUIDE
this guide is the same as
that of the pilot on a cham-
!/4"
fering bit. It keeps the bit a HARDBOARD
GUIDE
GUIDE
DETERMINES
uniform distance from the
START AND
STOP POINTS
edge being chamfered.
OF CHAMFER
1. 2.
But the guide also stops
Plans N O W
page 4 © 1998, August Home Publishing Co.
of the apron equals the shoulder-to- clamp; see Fig. 9. Then I adjusted the
FRONT APRON
shoulder length of the back frame fence to take just a little off each face to
After the frames and panels were com- (without the tongues), plus 3/ " (for the form the tenon. Now creep up on the
4
plete, I started work on the front apron; two 3/ " dovetail tongues. final thickness by moving the fence and
8
refer to Fig. 13. DOVETAIL TENONS. To hold the repeat the process until the tenons fit
CUT TO SIZE. Begin by cutting the apron securely while forming the dove- the dovetail grooves.
apron (I) 2"-wide; see Fig. 8. The length tail tenons, I clamped it in a hand screw Next, trim about 1/ " off the bottom
2
of each tenon so when it slides into the
groove, the top of the apron is flush with
35!/4
8
the top of the frame; see Fig. 10.
34!/2 #/8
CUT PROFILE. Now the curved pro-
#/4
file can be cut. To do this, draw a 1"-
radius curve near each end; see Fig. 8.
Then cut out the shape staying about
APRON I
1!/2
1
2
/ " outside the pencil line.
8
To finish up to the line, I used the
NOTCH
router table with a long fence and a
2#/4
WITH
1" RADIUS
CHISEL straight bit; see Fig. 11. Make a series of
light passes until the edge is straight
SIDE
9 10
FRAME
a.
APRON STOPPED
HAND DOVETAIL
SCREW
CLAMP
CLAMP
FENCE
NOTE:
MAKE
MULTIPLE
PASSES TO
NOTCH
ACHIEVE
TENON
#/8 FINAL FIT
WITH
APRON
NOTE: CHISEL
KEEP WORKPIECE
PERPENDICULAR
!/2" TO TABLE
DOVETAIL
BIT
FENCE
a.
11 13
APRON
AUXILIARY
FIRST
FENCE
CUT OUT
RADIUS
BULLNOSE
BULLNOSE
STRAIGHT
BIT
APRON
BACK FRAME
TOP
FASTENER SIDE
12 BACK
FRAME
FRAME
FENCE
&/16
%/16
BULLNOSE
!/2" ROUNDOVER
BIT
!/8" GROOVE
BULLNOSE DETAIL
APRON
%/16" DEEP
Plans N O W
page 5 © 1998, August Home Publishing Co.
and smooth, and lines up with the
14
!/4" TRIM STRIP
radiused corners.
1#/4 1#/4
FASTENER GROOVES. Next it s time
to plan ahead for fastening the top. I
TOP
used stamped metal fasteners that fit
L
FRAME
SIDE
into grooves. Cut the grooves along the PANEL
EDGING
13"
10 (
#/4" PLYWOOD)
J
ROUGH
inside edges of the apron and top rail of 9#/4
LENGTH
the back frame; see Fig. 12.
34
SOFTEN EDGES. The last step before 34!/2
assembling the case is softening the
edges with a bullnose profile; see Detail
1#/4
FRONT EDGING K
in Fig. 13. Rout the front of the side
40" ROUGH LENGTH
frames and the bottom of the apron. (CUT TO FIT)
#/16" SHANK HOLES
COUNTERSUNK
ASSEMBLE. Finally, the case can be
1#/4
1#/4
!/4"TRIM STRIP
FROM UNDERSIDE
assembled; see Fig. 13. First glue the
1
side frames to the back frame. Then add
BOTTOM
FRAME
O
the front apron.
4!/2
PANEL
(
#/4" PLYWOOD)
13" 10!/4
ROUGH 10
LENGTH
TOP AND BOTTOM
34!/2
4!/2
35
Once the case is assembled, the top and
bottom can be made. I started by cut- 1#/8
ting the two plywood panels (L and O) 1#/4 FRONT EDGING N
to size; see Fig. 14.
SIDE
40" ROUGH LENGTH
Shop Note: The top frame hangs EDGING
(CUT TO FIT)
M
over the case 3/ " on the sides and front,
4
so it should be built 3/ " deeper and 11/ "
4 2
wider than the outside dimensions of
the assembled case. The bottom frame
!/16
15 16
a. TONGUE
hangs over 1", so it should be 1" deeper
FENCE
PLYWOOD
and 2" wider than the case.
PANEL
RABBET
TOP FRAME
EDGING STRIP. The back edge of the
EDGING
ONLY
plywood is covered with a 1/ "-thick trim
4
STRAIGHT
!/8
BIT CUT MITER
strip. Rip this strip from 3/ " stock and
4
SO INSIDE
glue it to the plywood. EDGE ALIGNS
WITH CORNER
MITERED FRAMES. Next, the
OF PANEL
!/4 FRONT EDGING
#/4
mitered frames can be made. Begin by
ripping the pieces 13/ " wide, see Fig.
4
!/4
14. These pieces are joined to the ply-
wood with tongue and groove joints. So,
cut a 1/ " x 1/ " groove centered on the
4 4
inside edge of all the pieces. Then form
a matching tongue on the front and
Scoring For A Smooth Rabbet
S
c
o
r
i
n
g
F
o
r
A
S
m
o
o
t
h
R
a
b
b
e
t
sides of the plywood panels by cutting
rabbets on the top and bottom faces; see Cutting a rabbet across the grain on the end of the plywood to guide
Fig. 15 and the box at right. plywood almost always results in an X-Acto knife while scoring.
When cutting the mitered corners, I tearout along the shoulder line. The Then, flip the plywood over and rout
concentrated on shaving the ends of the way to eliminate this is to score the a clean rabbet.
frame s front pieces (K and N) until the edge before routing.
SCORE
inside corners fit the inside corners of The problem with scoring is
PLYWOOD
WITH
the panel; see Fig. 16. Then I mitered locating the score line exactly
WIDTH
X-ACTO
OF
KNIFE
the ends of the frame sides (J and M), where the edge of the rabbet
RABBET
leaving the back end a little long. will be. I solved this problem
RABBET. There s one more small by routing an identical rabbet
step. Cut a tiny rabbet on the inside of in a strip of scrap on the
ROUTER
the top frame pieces; see Fig. 15a. (This router table. The strip was
TABLE
FENCE
adds an accent line and makes the joint then used as a guide to score
more forgiving than a butt joint.) the plywood.
WIDTH
STRAIGHT OF
ASSEMBLY. Now glue up the frames After the rabbet is routed in
BIT RABBET
and panels and trim the back ends of the the strip, just fit the strip over
frame pieces flush with the panel.
Plans N O W
page 6 © 1998, August Home Publishing Co.
EDGE PROFILE
17
a. !/2"
To dress up the edges of these frames, I ROUND-
OVER
wanted to make a fancy profile with a
BIT
roundover bit and a core box bit.
However, I ran into problems on the
!/4
router table because the shank of the bit
NOTE:
had to be pulled too far out of the collet. MAKE
MULTIPLE
A safer alternative is to work with a
PASSES
HARDBOARD
hand-held router so the collet can get a
GUIDE
TAPE HARDBOARD
full grip on the bit. The problem is that
GUIDE FLUSH WITH
when the bit projects full depth, there BOTTOM EDGES OF FRAME
isn t anything for the pilot to ride on.
To solve this problem, I cut some 1/ "
4
hardboard and fastened it with carpet
18
tape to the underside of the frame flush
CENTER
a.
SHOULDER
with the edges; see Fig. 17. When the
ON BIT
FENCE
bit reaches full depth, the pilot rides
along the hardboard; see Fig. 17a.
ROUT COVE. To complete the profile,
I routed a small cove on the shoulder of
%/32
the roundover; see Fig. 18.
!/4"
BASE
CORE BOX
BIT
With the basic cabinet complete, I was
ready to make the base. The base is a
frame joined with splined miter joints.
CUT TO SIZE. To begin, rip the sides
(Q) and front and back pieces (P) to a
R
19
P
finished width of 3" and rough length; CLEAT BASE
P
BACK
#/4" PLYWOOD FRAME
see Fig. 19.
FRONT
(3 PIECES)
#/16"
RABBETS. The base is attached to the SHANK 1#/8
HOLES
case by three plywood cleats. I found
11
the easiest way to mount these cleats
was to cut a rabbet on the inside top
edge of all the base pieces; see Fig. 19a.
1#/8
MITER ENDS. After the rabbets are 37!/2
3
2
complete, cut the pieces to final length
COUNTERSINK
a.
#/16" SHANK
with a 45° miter on each end. Note: The
HOLES
length of the pieces is determined by
!/2
11#/4
the size of the bottom frame. The base
BULLNOSE
#/4
1
EDGE SAME
should set back / " on the front and
4
Q AS APRON
SPLINE
sides and be flush on the back; refer to SIDE
#/8
SIDE
!/8" HARDBOARD
2
Figs. 23 and 27 on page 8. !/2" x 2!/4"
CLEAT
SPLINES. To strengthen the corners
and help keep them aligned while
gluing, the mitered joints are splined
with strips of 1/ " hardboard. I cut the
8
USE TABLE
20 21
kerfs on the table saw; see Fig. 20. SAW FENCE
BASE FRAME
MITER
FOR STOP
FRONT/BACK
BOTTOM PROFILE. Next, a curved GAUGE
!/8"
profile can be made on the front and
(APPROX)
SAW KERF
back pieces; see Fig. 21. I did this the
same way as I did the apron (I).
1#/4"
RADIUS
CLEATS. Now dry-clamp the base
#/4
and measure between the rabbets for INSIDE
FACE
the cleats (R); see Fig. 19.
!/4
ASSEMBLY. The base frame is
5#/4
assembled by gluing the corners
TILT !/8
CUT OUT
SAW BLADE
together with the splines in place. While
PROFILE
45°
the glue is wet, glue the cleats in place.
Plans N O W
page 7 © 1998, August Home Publishing Co.
MOUNT BOTTOM FRAME. While the
CENTER
22 BOTTOM VIEW
BOTTOM
base is drying, the bottom plywood
#8 x 1!/2" Fh
FRAME
WOODSCREW
frame can be fastened to the case. To do ON CASE
this, turn the case upside down and
align the bottom frame on it; see Fig. 22.
Now glue and screw the bottom
frame and case together.
MOUNT BASE FRAME. To mount the
base frame, drill pilot holes and drive
screws through the cleats into the ply-
USE CENTER
CROSS SECTION
a.
wood bottom; see Fig. 23.
MARKS FOR
ALIGNMENT BOTTOM FRAME
MOUNT TOP. Next, the top frame can
be attached with fasteners; see Fig. 24.
BOTTOM FRAME
Turn over the top frame and center the
FLUSH WITH EDGE
OF BACK FRAME
case on it. Then slip the fasteners into
DRILL
SIDE
the grooves and screw them down.
#/32"
PILOT
HOLE
SHELF
The shelf starts as a piece of plywood
10" wide and 1/ " less in length than the
8 SIDE
23
FRAME
BOTTOM
inside of the bookcase; see Fig. 26.
#8 x 1!/2" Fh
FRAME
WOODSCREW
BULLNOSE PIECES. To keep the
shelf from sagging, I added reinforcing
strips (T) into 1/ " grooves on the front
4
edge and bottom face; see Fig. 26.
After cutting the grooves, rip 1"-wide
strips and cut rabbets to produce a
tongue that matches the grooves; see
CENTER
CLEAT
!/4 CLEAT
Step 1 in Fig. 25. !/4
#8 x 1!/4" Fh
NOTE:
WOODSCREW
To complete the strips, rout a bull- BASE
DRILL #/32"
FRAME
PILOT HOLES
nose profile on the other edges; see
Step 2. Finally, glue the strips in place.
TOP FRAME AUXILIARY
CUT TONGUE
24 25 27 CROSS SECTION
FENCE
TO FIT
GROOVE
FENCE
!/4
!/4
TOP
BULLNOSE
FRAME
DETAIL
APRON
WOOD
SCREW FENCE
BACK
FRAME
APRON
DADO
TOP
BLADE %/16
FASTENER
SHELF
SIDE
!/2" ROUNDOVER BIT
FRAME
26
a.
!/16
REINFORCING
SHELF
STRIPS
S 10
#/4"
PLYWOOD SHELF
SUPPORT PIN
BOTTOM
INSIDE DIMENSION LESS !/8"
FRAME
#/4 9!/4
1!/4
1 !/4 !/4
T
!/4
SIDE VIEW
#/4
BASE FRAME
1 T
!/4
#/4 #/4
REINFORCING
1
STRIPS
Plans N O W
page 8 © 1998, August Home Publishing Co.