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Measurements and Patterns

Pattern 15

Pattcrn 11: It you arc working a very wide shoulder yoke and the back neckline is not supposed to be as Jeep as half the yoke width, the yoke bas to be extended over the back to the center of the back.

Pattern 12: In this raglan pattern, the back is bound off straight across at the neckline and the front neckline is rounded slightly. The sleeves end in a rounded part that is deeper towards the front. This means that the second sleeve has to be worked as a reverse of the first.

Before starting the slanted edge at the top of the sleeve, bind off a few stitches straight across on both sides so that there isrit “too much materiał” at the armpit.

Pattern 13: This pattern assures a very good lit. For about Vi the length of the slanted raglan edge, decrease the stitches every other row, then every fourth row. The second sleeve has to be worked as a reverse of the first (see also the sweater, page 202).

Pattern 14: For a dolman sleeve, inerease evenly from the waistband ribbing to the wristband ribbing. You can work this sweater in one piece over the shoulder. Or you can put the stitches at the shoulder/arm linę on stitch holders and sew the 2 parts together later, using grafting stitch (starting on page 114). Pieces with such a large number of stitches should always be worked on a long circular needle.

Pattern 15: For a kimono pattern, the inereases for the slanted edges at the sides and the sleeves are worked in a rounded shape.

Pattern 16: For a kimono pattern with a flattened shoulder/sleeve linę, the simplest solution is to bind the stitches oft and sew them together later using grafting stitch (page 114).

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