shoes&pattens9

129

List of figures and concordance

c: tinned iron. SWA 81 [2102] <800), c.1400. d: lead/tin alloy with iron pin. TL 74 [368] <2056), Group G15, c.1440.

e: lead/tin alloy with iron pin. TL 74 [275] <2507), Group G15, c.1440.

f: lead/tin alloy with iron pin. TL 74 [275] <2013), Group G15, c.1440.

g: lead/tin alloy with iron pin. TL 74 [368] <3432), Group G15, c.1440.

h: lead/tin alloy with iron pin. SWA 81 [2102] <850), c.1400.

i: copper alloy with iron pin. TL 74 [368] <3424), Group G15, c.1440.

j: tinned iron. TL 74 [368] <3638), Group G15, c.1440.

111    Upper with embroidered decoration. SWA 81 [3015] <4369), mid/late 12th century.

112    Embroidered vamp stripes:

*a-b: Probably calf. BIG 82 [7005] <5836), Period IV.5, late llth/early 12th century.

*c: Calf. SWA 81 [2167] <4710), undated. d: BIG 82 [7064] <4829), Period IV.5, late llth/early 12th century.

e: BIG 82    [6747]    <5954), Period VII.2,

c.1150-60.

f: BIG 82 [7064] <4830), Period IV.5, late llth/early 12th century.

g: SWA 81 [3015] <4372), mid/late 12th century.

113    Embroidery stitches used on shoes.

114    Embroidered vamp stripe, stitches still surviving. SH 74 [451] <207), Waterfront I, c.1140.

115    Openwork decoration:

*a: Early 13th-century shoe. See Fig. 25.

*b: Upper fragment. Leather unidentifiable. BWB 83 [161] < 53 >, c. 1360-1400.

*c: Quarters. Calf. BC 72 [79] <2338), dock infill, 1375-1400.

116    Openwork decoration:

*a: Vamp. Calf. Museum of London 85.289/13. Probably from Billingsgate, Platę 14th century.

*b: Vamp. Calf. Museum of London 85.289/12. Provenance as last.

*c: Vamp. Calf. TL 74 [275] <1834), Group G15, c.1440.

117    Openwork decoration:

*a: Vamp. Calf. BC 72 [83] <2557), dock infill, 1375-1400.

*b: Vamp. Sheep/goat. BC 72 [79] <2583), dock infill, 1375-1400.

118    Detail of lost painting from St. Stephen’s Chapel, Westminster. (Drawn by R. Smirke; copyright, Society of Antiąuaries of London)

119    Late 14th-century shoes with incised and scraped decoration:

*a: See Fig. 51.

*b: Calf. BC 72 [79]    <2581), dock infill,

1375-1400.

*120 Late 14th-century shoe with incised and scraped decoration. See Fig. 50.

121 Scraped and/or engraved decoration:

a: Vamp.    BC    72    [88]    <1989),    dock    infill,

1375-1400.

b: Vamp.    BC    72    [79]    <2494),    dock    infill,

1375-1400.

*c: Quarters. Calf. BC 72 [79] <2337), dock infill, 1375-1400.

*d: Quarters. Calf. BC 72 [79] <2582), dock infill, 1375-1400.

*122 Late 14th-century shoe with moss (thuidium tamarascinum) stuffing. See Fig. 49.

123    Method used to attach repair piece (clump) to sole.

124    Kurtz Franek, pattenmaker, at work, 1489 (from Das Hausbuch der Mendelschen Zwólfbriider-stiftung zu Nurnberg; drawn from Treue et al. 1965, Taf. 164).

125    Wooden pattens, 13th/14th century. See Figs. 126 & 127.

*126 Patten. ?Alnus sp. SH 74 [467] <362), Waterfront III, c.1210.

127 Patten. BWB 83 [142] <35), 1360-1400.

*128 Patten. Salicaceae. BWB 83 [150] <46), 1360-1400.

129    Patten.    BC    72    [88]    <3065),    dock    infill,

1375-1400.

130    Patten.    BC    72    [80]    <2061),    dock    infill,

1375-1400.

131    Patten. BWB 83 [110] <58), 1360-1400.

*132 Late 14th/early 15th-century pattens. See Figs. 133, 136 & 139.

*133 Patten. Two parts, apparently conjoining, but identified as alnus sp. (< 1607)) and Isalicaceae (<2684>). BC 72 [55] <1607) & <2684), dock infill, 1375-1400.

*134 Patten. Alnus sp. BC 72 [55] <2520), dock infill, 1375-1400.