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b. Style for Fig 4c This is the best style for soled hose and has a one-piece sole, with no seams under the foot. With skilled fitting it can give a 'skin-tight' fit. Before starting ensure that your toile is long enough for the extended toes.

Sole - First make a sole pattern by drawing round the model's bare feet, with the pencil slanting under the foot. Overlay the two outlines, tracę a common shape, and plan extended toes to produce a pattern. Cut out two soles with generous seam allowances for the fitting.

Leg - Fit the toile as in Fig 5. When it starts to drag over the foot, snip into the fabric on each side over theankle bonę and slash straight down. Place the fabric sole under the foot. Fit the back edges of the toile down to the back of the heel and pin them to the sole, trimming away the surplus.

Ilamp - Smooth the front of the toile over the foot and pin it to the sole to form the vamp, as described for the previous style. Leave a gap on each side where the ankle slashes open out, to be led later by separate gussets. Remove the toile. Repeat for the other leg.

Gussets - To make a pattern for the gussets, measure each edge of the slash, and the gap on the sole between them. If the gap is different on the inside and outside of the foot, make a pattern for each side. Hollow out the front edge of the gusset slightly to improve the fit.

For a long extension, as shown, cut the upper part 0.5-1 cm shorter than the sole and stretch it onto the sole when you sew them together: this will make the point curl upwards slightly.

Plan a pattern and refit if necessary. This style reaches the top of the leg and is finished with a facing and eyelets (Methods, Fig 16).

Making up - First set the gussets into the slashes, then stitch the back leg seam, and finally stitch on the sole.

For soled hose, use the pattern to cut two soles in leather, without seam allowances. Oversew them to the completed hose.

If the style fits closely the foot must be put on by turning it inside out and easing it over the heel.

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