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Slits for fitchets, slasbes for sleeves,

These slits (Surcotes, Fig 5; Gowns, Fig 18) are worked on the finished garment. Put the garment on the wearer and marle the planned position of the slit with pins, if possible on the straight grain of the fabric.

Take off the garment and check the length and position of the slits match on both sides, and that all layers of fabric are lying correctly. Tack round the position of each slit - like a giant buttonhole - stitching through all layers. Cut the slit inside the tacking. Oversew or blanket stitch the raw edges, or turn in narrow edges and stitch. For finishing lined edges see Pl. 1. On sleeves the slash can be bound (Fig 9) or edged with fur, p.53.

Platę 1. Lined edge finished in stab stitch

Lined garments are normally finished by turning in the raw edges together and hand-stitching close to the folded edge. This gives a fiat, firm edge on necklines, euffs, hems and head-wear as well as on slit openings.

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