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Wimples

The wimple was a covering for the throat worn by most women in the 13th century. It could be part of the kerchief (Fig lb), or the wimple might be a separate piece and morę stylish in its effect (Figs 4, 5). During the 14th century it gradually went out of generał use, being seen mainly on elderly women, widows and nuns.

The first separate wimple was simply a rectangle of linen draped under the chin and pinned round the head and neck (Fig 4). From about 1300 it was sometimes pleated or 'pinched', accordion fashion. Later in the century it might be hollowed out under the chin for a closer fit (Fig 5).

5. Kerchief with shaped and pinched wimple, 15th century

a.    Assembled head-dress. A smali, fine kerchief is pinned to a fillet. A pinched wimple is added, curved to the neck and set into a band. A plain black cloth veil is worn on top.

b.    The wimple. Cut a rectangle of fine linen 80-100 cm long and 30 cm deep, and a band of the same linen about 35 cm long and 3-4 cm wide. Fold the band lengthways and tum in the raw edges. Hem the ends and lower edge of the rectangle.

Form smali, regular pleats, up to 1 cm wide, following the straight grain, damping the linen if necessary. Tack through the top of the pleats in the shape of the neck curve, dipping to about 5 cm at the centre. Cut out above the tacking, and enclose the edge in the prepared band. The ends of the band are secured to the fillet in wear.

20 cm

^;£_    6. Tailed cap, second half of

15th century

The kerchief was the commonest form of head-dress, but in the late 15th century made-up caps had | begun to replace it.

*7 a. This two tailed example, cut in S one piece with a fold along the top, is related to the kerchief. The tails are crossed behind and knotted above the forehead.

b. Pattern for a. Allow 25-30 cm for the CF edge, giving a total face edge of 50-60 cm. Measure about the same length from the bottom of the face edge to the start of the taił, A, depending how much turn-back is wanted round the face. Make the taił about 75 cm long. Cut the pattern on the fold. Sew each taił into a tubę from the tip to the balance marks, AA, then join the back of the cap up to the fold, AB. Hem the face and neck edges.