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25. Bodice and collar for Fig 24

Bodice - Tracę the bodice Błock to waist only.

Draw a vertical CB linę starting 0.5-1 cm outside the Błock neckline. The short vertical CF linę runs from the Błock waist to the base of the collar. The collar is shown as a deep V-shape, which could be shortened. Draw straight side seam lines starting 1.5-2 cm outside and 1 cm down from UP. Redraw the armholes to match.

Draw the new curved back neckline 2-5 cm below the Błock neck. Measure from NP to a on the back shoulder, and mark a on the front shoulder to match. Rule the front collar fold linę from a to CF (fine broken linę).

Collar - This is a 3-piece collar. The back is cut separately in one piece on a fold, and the fronts in one with the gown Fronts. For making up see Methods, Fig 14. For contrasting facings see Methods: Collars and cuffs.

Back collar - Plan the shape, shown by the heavy broken linę, on the bodice Back. The collar extends slightly beyond the gown shoulders. Tracę off the pattern, to be cut on the fold.

Front collar - Measure off a-(b) on the Front shoulder to equal a-(b) on the Back. Rule from (b) to CF (heavy broken linę). Fold back the pattern paper along the fine broken linę, a-CF. Tracę off the shape of the front collar and open it out again, marking b as shown. The linę ab may slope up or down. It may help to fit the collar and Front in calico at this stage, before tracing off the working pattern.

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