35389 tmta3

29

20 cm

29. Bodice and collar for Fig 28 Bodice - Tracę the bodice Błock to hip level: little alteration is needed. Rule a vertical CF linę upwards from the Błock waist, but leave the CB unaltered. Lower the armhole at UP by 1 -2 cm.

Plan a Iow, curved neckline on Back and Front, here 5 cm below the Błock neck at CB and 6 cm from NP to a at the shoulders. The front neckline should meet the CF at right angles, well above bust level to cover the kirtle front.

Rule a vertical construction linę centred on the waist linę on Front and Back.

Collar - This 3-piece collar is madę up separately and sewn to the gown. It is 6 cm deep at CB, 7.5 cm at the shoulder, narrowing to 2.5 cm at CF.

Use these measurements to draw the outer edge of the collar, shown by heavy broken lines. Broadly follow the back and front necklines, but dip and round the end at CF. Tracę off the pattern and add the SG and balance marks, as shown. Cut the back in one, on a fold, and the front as separate pieces. Make up the collar, with interlining and lining, finishing all the edges. For light materials use edge stitching (Methods, PI 1). For heavier fabrics and velvet follow Methods, Fig 13. For fur see p. 53. Tack and hand stitch the finished collar in place round the finished gown neck.

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