27184 tmta4

150 cm

Fold-^

20. Fuli pattern and layout for Fig 18

The patterns are shown on cloth 150 cm wide, folded crossways, with both side seam lines on the selvedges and the CB/CF lines on the bias. Measurements - The following measurements are for the calf length style, but the method of planning and layout applies to any length.

Find the gown length by adding the shoulder-to-waist and waist-to-hem measurements. Here the total length is 110 cm, and waist-to-hem is 55 cm. The Back and Front hems are each 90 cm wide, giving a total hem of 360 cm.

Front - Rule a linę and place the side seam linę of the enlarged bodice Front along it. Continue the side seam linę to the required hem length. Cut and open the slash lines equally, 6-10 cm at the waist, or up to 12 cm for a short gown.

Rule the CF seam linę from neck to hem. This linę will slant out sharply. Check the hem width and adjust the spacing of the slashes if necessary, securing them provisionally in position.

Plan the hem curve by measuring off the waist-to-hem length from several points on the waist. Mark the finał pleat positions (x..x) at the end of each slash linę.

Back - Repeat the procedurę for the Front, checking that the side seams are the same length on each. Tracę off the patterns; see also Blocks, p. 42.

Notę: The greater the gown length, the less the slashes need to be opened to achieve the same hem width. To form good pleats, however, they must be opened at least 6 cm at the waist, so allow a generous hem width for a pleated gown.

After cutting, mark the pleat positions (x..x) with tailor's tacks on both outer fabric and lining. This will act as a guide when stitching the pleats to the waist stay band (PI 14). Also reinforce the bias edges with stay bands.

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