75695 tmta9

Planning, cutting and making up

The patterns are adapted from the personal Błock (Blocks, Figs 25-27). The alterations are shown with each pattern; for men (Fig 5) and for women (Fig 8). To adapt the neckline of a woman's cotehardie to that of a kirtle worn underneath, see Kirtles, Fig 3c.

The order of making up is described in Methods, p. 46.

For an unlined garment, finish the neck and front edges with narrow facings (p. 51). Sleeves with long peaks (Fig 6a) may need to be lined (p. 51). If the sleeves have streamers, add them as facings round the sleeve ends (Fig 6b).

To plan your garment use the wearer's personal bodice Błock (see Blocks). The patterns shown here correspond approx. to modern size 42 for men and size 14 for women. The fine lines show the original Błock outline. Letters indicate joining points. For abbreviations and symbols see p. 10. Add seam allowances and balance points. The four bodice pieces must be cut accurately for a proper fit. Check the side seam lines are of equal length and at the same angle. Secure long bias edges on a stay band.

Fastenings

No extra width is allowed for button fastenings as the edges barely overlap. Sew the buttons to the right edge of the finished garment and work the buttonholes close to the left edge (Methods, Figs 19-21; Pis 2, 3): this applies for both men and women. The main thing is to have plenty of buttons: they should normally be no morę than 3-4 cm apart and can be packed so close together that they touch. On men's cotehardies the buttons are sometimes seen closer together above the waist than below.

Men's cotehardies    Woman's cotehardie

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