40450 tmta1

Small-wares & other techniąues,

Figs 25-27

This summarises techniąues for making trims, fastenings and accessories. Many modern commercial products are structurally identical to medieval forms, so making these yourself is by no means essential. Specialist books on the techniąues are listed in the Bibliography.

Small-wares

Narrow looms for weaving ribbons and tapes did exist and were occasionally illustrated. Tapes were woven in linen, and ribbon in silk or worsted, but modern cotton tape can be used. Narrow silk ribbons are available; otherwise look for rayon as it is not as stiff and shiny as polyester.

Cords and la ces, Figs 25, 26

Mainly used for lacing, purse-strings and sewing to garment edges as trimming. They include round and fiat versions. The round braids are comparable to Japanese Kumihimo braiding, or the wider forms of finger-looping. The lucet, or chain fork, was used to produce round cords similar to French knitting.

Tablet weaving

An ancient and widely-used techniąue for making bands, often with elaborate patterns. Worsted, linen or silk tablet-woven bands were used for belts, for fillets (headbands), for purse strings and for sewing onto clothing.

Netting

This is an ancient techniąue, and nets were used for hunting, storage and cooking, as well as in dress. Hair nets of silk thread were widely worn in the 14th and 15th centuries.

Netting was worked with a shuttle, and a mesh gauge which regulated the size of the stitches. Tools and information may now be hard to find.

Knitting

Our knowledge of medieval knitting is limited. Knitting of caps was established in the 14th century and widespread in the L5th. Caps were knitted in the round on four or morę needles, then fulled (felted) and brushed to give them a napped finish. Other items such as leggings, mittens and socks may also have been knitted.

25.    Finger-looped cords

The drawings are opened out here to show the structure, but both should be pulled up tightly when working. The two-stranded method will make a square cord. Both should be worked under tension, with the starting end attached to a fixed point.

a.    One stranded

b.    Two stranded, using two colours. Knot the two strands together, then form a loop from strand 1, insert a loop from strand 2 into it, and puli strand 1 tight. Insert a loop from strand 1 and tighten strand 2 round it. Continue forming alternate loops and tightening them. You can insert the loops either from above or from beneath, but be consistent. Practise to achieve an even finish.

26.    Plaiting

This is a basie method. Knot the starting ends together, attaching them to a fixed point to keep the work under tension. For the 3-stranded plait shown, lay the left and right strands alternately to the centre.

The method can be worked with four or five strands to make a fiat band.

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