tmta1

6. Cloth hats, from c.1450

a.    Conical ‘acorn’ hat, shown madę in one piece

b.    Squared off hat, shown madę in separate panels

c.    Shallow square cap, plain version and version with turned up brim. It is madę from four separate panels. The crown of each panel must be a right angle, so the top is fiat and the edges square.

For an unlined hat use heavy felt or firm cloth. For a lined hat use two layers of lighter weight cloth (Methods, p. 51; PI 1).

Plan the pattern for all styles as a quarter of the finished hat, with the base linę a quarter of the Flead size. The base to point height is 20-25 cm for tali styles; less for the flatter square cap, c. Patterns for a and b can be planned as a repeat of the basie shape and cut in one piece, as shown in a.

For felt or firm cloth cut with minimal seam allowances, and oversew or stab-stitch the edges.

Any of these caps may have a little stalk at the crown, madę of a 2-3 cm square of cloth rolled tightly on itself. Hem down the outer edge and stitch one end of the stalk firmly at the centre.