17272 tmta 1
Flat-fronted kirtle
7. Flat-fronted kirtle, mid 15th century onwards
This kirtle was worn under the tighter and morę revealing gowns of the middle and late 15th century (Gowns, Fig 28). It is tighter, lower-necked and sleeveless. The fiat front panel and side lacing produce the characteristic high cleavage. The bodice is interlined with firm canvas, including a double layer in the front panel if necessary, and lined. It is out and madę up separately from the skirt with its pleated flounce (Fig 9).
8. Bodice for Fig 7
Tracę the personal Błock to waist level. Plan the front panel on a straight CF linę, to be out on the fold. Plan the Front side piece and Back with no ease at all on the waist. Reduce the bust size to slightly less than the actual Bust measurement. Use the Under Bust measurement to determine the shaped part of the side panel seam, AB. When making up, this section must be eased carefully onto the straight edge of the front panel, AB.
You will need to check the fit of this bodice carefully, preferably trying it first in calico. It should fit closely round the waist and ribcage while supporting the bust. Hollow out the armhole at the side seams if it is uncomfortably tight. For making up see p. 86.
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