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20 cm

8. Sleeveless surcotes, 13th to mid 14th century

A morę elaborate cut than Fig. 7, and suitable for different weights of cloth. It is unsuitable for fabrics with a nap, wrong side or one-way pattern sińce the panels are cut and reversed.

a.    Man's calf-length surcote, without gores but with slits for riding

b.    Woman's surcote, with added gores

c. Pattern and layout

This shows the woman’s surcote, and the fine lines indicate the shoulder and armhole shaping. Use the same layout for a man, but with the appropriate dimensions and without the gores.

The examples, for a man (Chest 100 cm) and woman (Bust 90 cm), are only for guidance. Actual dimensions will depend on how loose a fit you want, as well as on body size. Start with a scalę diagram before making a full-size pattern, or try out the pattern in calico.

Plan the Back and Front as two rectangles, each equalling Garment length by Garment width (Garment width is from two-thirds to three-quarters Chest or Bust measurement). Divide each rectangle diagonally. The diagonal lines will form the CF and CB seam lines, after the four panels are joined bias to bias and straight edge to straight edge.

Ensure that the narrow ends of panels, which form the shoulders, are at least a quarter Bust/Chest size, to give enough width round the torso. If the shoulders are very wide they can be trimmed and shaped after cutting. Secure bias edges on a stay band.

Man's surcote - Garment length 120 cm, Garment width 75 cm (three quarters Chest size). The shoulder ends are 26 cm giving a wide, square shoulder. The straight side seams are left open 30-35 cm down from the shoulders, to form armholes; the seams at CF and CB are left open 40 cm up from the hem.

Woman's surcote - Garment length 160 cm, Garment width 60 cm (two thirds Bust size). The shoulder ends are only 21 cm: extra width is provided by the gores. The side gores reach to the underarm, adding both armhole shaping and flarę to the hem.

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