tmta5
Women's open surcotes
9. Women's open surcotes, mid 14th century on
Later surcotes are worn over a kirtle and based on the personal Błock. They are out for fit above the waist, and for flarę below. Although out of fashion by the late 14th century, both styles persisted into the 15th.
Left The simple style replaced the gored surcote in generał wear. It might have quite smali armholes, or deeper openings as shown. Working women might still wear it in the 15th century.
Right The sideless surcote appeared for court and ceremoniał wear about 1370. It was worn by royalty for many years but was not part of ordinary dress. The main picture shows an English version, and the detail shows a French form with a white fur front. The front buttons are ornamental.
The solid linę is for Fig 9 left and the broken linę for Fig 9 right.
Tracę the personal Błock and plan the shape of the surcote neck, shoulder and armhole. Ensure that Back and Front match up and the neckline matches that of the cote or kirtle worn underneath; see Kirtles, Fig 3. As the garment will be flared, the finał width along CB and CF will be greater than on the Błock. Use the prepared bodice to plan the complete pattern on paper as shown in Fig 11. If necessary the side or armhole openings can be cut deeper at fitting.
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20 cm
125
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