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Women's linen head-dresses

This section includes the kerchief, wimple, fillet and tailed cap.

Ker chiefs, Pis 6, 10

Throughout the period most women wore nothing grander on their heads than rectangles of linen, which were covered with a woollen veil or hood in colder weather (Surcotes, Fig 1). The Church required women to keep the hair covered, but kerchiefs also changed with fashion, and their quality and complexity reflected the status of the wearer. Being well turned out showed a woman could afford the necessary quantity of kerchiefs and the services of a laundress.

The simplest versions were in one piece, wrapped and tucked, or tied, to keep them in place (Figs 1, 2). In morę elaborate versions one or morę pieces might be pinned to a fillet tied round the head (Fig 3).

Towards the end of the 15th century a made-up cap could sometimes be seen, its two tails wrapped round the head (Fig 6; Kirtles, Fig 1).

Materials and making up The weight and fineness of the linen used for head-wear reflected the status of the wearer and how it would drape and wrap. A peasant woman would probably have used unbleached linen for a normal kerchief, but have bleached for best. Fine quality linen is required for satisfactory pleating of a wimple.

As the head covering is probably the most conspicuous part of your outfit you should use linen finer than that of your smock or apron. Approximate dimensions are given in the captions. Experiment with spare materiał to find the right size for the style you want. Most kerchiefs would have used lengths from narrow looms with the selvedges for two edges, but today they will be cut from wider pieces and the raw edges finished with narrow hems.

Womerfs linen head-dresses

1. Wrapped kerchief, 1200 onwards

The basie way of wearing a single kerchief, as seen on working women throughout most of the period. It is rectangular, at least 45 cm by 100 cm, but can be larger provided its length is at least twice the width. The drawing is based on a kerchief 60 cm by 120 cm.

a.    Stage 1. Drape one end over the head, tucking in the folds which form above the forehead.

b.    Stage 2. Bring the long end under the chin, pass it round the back of the neck and tuck in the end at the front. Take care to secure both ends and it will stay in place without pins.